Stop worrying about potholes in the road and celebrate the journey.

Fitzhugh Mullan

Finally just a day of riding. Awesome just cruising along mile after mile on a great bike path. And I think it was because temperatures were very good for riding it added to enjoyment 55-75f (15-23C). There were numerous people out and boats on canal. Jeanne said it was because it was Saturday, or we were approaching city of Rochester. I think it was the temperature.

One interesting town Fairport the trail goes through a side street of small markets and people out walking enjoying the sunshine, but it appeared 95% were looking at cell phones, even little kids -zombie land- enough so that I really noticed.

Then came across the outdoor store REI next to trail so popped in to see if he had a brake for Jeanne’s bike. Viola, he did not have any but had just finished replacing someone else’s brakes which the rear was bad (not same problem) and was going to throw away the front brake. Wow a freebie. I was going to install it out with the sidewalk sale, but Jeanne said it was fine now. She did not want to risk the same problem, of a sticking brake. On we rode.

Junction of Genesee river and Erie Canal (hint- the Erie Canal is route in middle) (bike bridge across out of sight on left. I90 to right)

Stopped and watched locks in action. Lock operation never ceases to fascinate me

After a whopping 16 foot descent (5 meters) we cruised on to Palmyra. Reading about the area apparently in the 1820’s and 1830’s it was a hotbed of evangelical churches, religious fervor, and sprouting of new sects. The founder of the Mormons was from here (Joseph Smith) when the angel Moroni visiting him with a bunch of gold tablets explaining it all. Apparently seventh day Adventist’s also came about here at about same time. I was careful to not get or drink any water from area.

On to Newark meeting some Canadian lads out for a weekend ride. Only motel in town was right next to trail. Great. Dinner was a choice between a place advertising “bud light” and one advertising craft beers. We chose the latter and an excellent dinner.

Back at motel and excite as Jeanne gets a new brake.. alas, not to be. The brake lever is integrated with shifter so need that assembly, a very specialized part. She says she is doing fine

Don’t listen to others listen to yourself

Whew what a day, up somewhat early as fell asleep very early due to tiredness. Hoped to catch up to whatever schedule we have (maybe 40 mile days) Rochester is 56 miles away (90kilometer) and our goal. Learning the small towns do not necessarily have tourist facilities, hence must plan around those availability.

Jeanne’s bike has been giving her grief. Checked out perfect in anchorage but sat on back of car for nearly 3 weeks, and now the front brake is sticking. Every time I look at it, it rubs a bit, I adjust the little one can on hydraulic brakes and the wheel rolls but not great. Then today it barely rolls. She rode yesterday 33 miles and today 13 miles saying this is ridiculous I should not have to work this hard. Finally in frustration (to add to hers) I just removed the front brake. Brakes just slow you down. It seemed to be true as our pace doubled literally doubled. And we are back to usual of me barely keeping up with her.

And to add to our speed we stopped at post office and shipped 14 lbs (6 kilos) of stuff deemed extra, I had a hoodie in case it got cold, an extra bike jersey, and the iPad. Jeanne had extra lock, tools, cloths book and stuff. Away it went. Much easier. Like I said our speed literally doubled although it was now 1 pm and we had gone 13.5 miles since our 9 am departure.

The riding was then great. Although it turned hot 100 degrees at one point (39c) whew basically uninhabitable by humans in my humble experience, with this humidity. Sane people were inside, while we rode the sunny side of canal.

The surface is great, what they call stone dust. A hard very rideable surface perfect for our 1.75 tires or even road bike tires.

Riding along and this old building says bike shop so pulled in. Sign says at house working and call so we did and he came over. I had been through several theories and finally found on web that avid juicy brakes tend to get dirty and the pistons stick, not retracting leaving them to rub. One advice said buy a new one (of better quality) another said do not just throw away as easily fixed by taking apart calipers soaking in brake fluid and reveled. Not something I particularly want to do in field or a motel room.

The mechanic and propriator confirmed this, tried cleaning without taking apart, but without success. Basically buy a new brake. Probably occurred driving down with dirt from back of car. Ok nice. He had no brakes for us.

But again getting tired still 26 miles (41 kilometer to Rochester and now 3:30. And it is now 100 degrees (39C). 90 in the shade. Ridiculous. I check and potential motel in Brockport only 13 miles (20 k), said same about Medina yesterday but was not true. The web can lie.

Mechanic said a decent motel and also said good beer in Brockport and that was it. We flew on with a tailwind pushing us.

Interesting as he also said it seemed ridership is diminishing on the Erie Canal. Not sure why but he thinks no one is pushing it and it does not have the amenities other trails have ( mileposts, distance markers, signs of available lodging food in towns. I confess in this heat I am not going very far in a wild search for something interesting.

Did see a turtle resting on road, lots of herons, kingfisher, and some unknown furry creature (about size of cat but badger like)

Interesting have seen only one boat moving on canal. Did hear some people last night talking about spending summer on east coast and now taking their boat back to Michigan. But have not seen boat movement. Or bikers although did see two groups of two for short rides. Interesting

Made it to Brockport and riding the 1.5 mile ride to motel and saw another bike shop. Stopped in and the fellow came out all excited to fix the brake but in the end confirmed get a new one. But he would love to have a look as unusual problem. But could not in reasonable time and probably break some seals which would do no good. Alas, but said several good places for beer. Ok we have been told twice now so forget motel and get a beer.

Numerous choices finally. Recently has often been bad light beer, light beer, or what they call a dark beer called corona. This place had maybe 30 on draft ipa, ambers, Pilsner, spice, from local breweries or other places. Excellent.

Decided on dinner too to alleviate return into town. Then on bikes to motel uphill or what passes as a hill here. Halfway there my gos gives me an alert “severe thunderstorm alert” before I have a chance to even look around or up it is a downpour”. We ride the couple hundred yards (meters) to a motel and I walk in dripping all over but the sky is clearing and beautiful out. I just put myself and clothes on shower to wash the severe stink out. Must have sweated at least a gallon and only took in 1/2 that. (Before the beer).

Yet another day. Made me think though, what the bike shop guy said, people do not want to figure it out themselves. They want it delivered. For me half the adventure is figuring it out what is out there. (I did stop a fellow on a tractor to ask what the field was growing- soybeans)

Whatever everyone is different, and the adventure continues

When in the wilds, we must not carry our problems with us or the joy is lost. Sigurd Olson

Finally the day has arrived and we start biking. One plans, thinks, imagines what it will be, then the day arrives and reality comes to fruition.

Crossed back into America through long line on Rainbow bridge over the Niagara River just below the falls. Lucky I knew by heart the license of our car for customs agent. They always scare me with so much power. Somehow I have never been able to think of them as good guys.

But walked the American side of falls which is also incredibly impressive. I felt for both sides, given the number of visitors they have developed it nicely. One can view it quite freely, but the opportunities to spend money are there, but not totally in your face. The falls are impressive just because of the volume of water , 100,000 cfs we did spend $1.25 each and took the elevator to bottom which is always interesting looking up at falls

Delightful to walk about, having walked about 10 miles (16 kilometers) in past two days. Then on into Buffalo and found a car storage place in a big warehouse.

Drove downtown to check out start of the ride, then plugged in the address to the night motel, seeing the bar where the original buffalo wings came about. (Chicken wings in barbecues sauce) or so they say.

Unfortunately I put in the street address correctly but thought the motel was in Buffalo, but it was back in Town of Niagara Falls 20 miles back, but we had a good drive about town amongst the neighborhoods. Funny being back in developments after two weeks of country.

finally arrived at motel and began sorting gear for biking. Excitement. What to take? What will we actually need? What to leave behind? This is a credit card trip, so no camping, just bike gear and evening attire.

Thus it is this morning. Getting dressed, will drive Jeanne to the start, drop her, the bikes, and gear, then I drive to warehouse dropping the car and Uber it back to the start. Yahoo. Finally I get to ride my bicycle.

Don’t listen to others listen to yourself 

A pleasant weekend driving to Denali National Park and camping, with some delightful bike rides.  Such a treat to get on the bike, despite it being cold and windy.  the first day out we opted to ride up Sable pass an 8% grade, which developed a head wind to boot.  Had thought of progressing on to Polychrome pass but somehow seemed daunting for our group that day.

But a pleasant evening sitting around the campfire musing.

Sunday another ride back towards park entrance and I was not feeling it as have had a cold flu past week and just under the weather so I saw them off and returned to the tent and warm sleeping bag.

Monday (today) jeanne and I departed early returning to Anchorage as departure tomorrow to ride the Erie Canal, allegheny Trail, and the C & O towpath.  All eastern United States, New York, Pennsylvania, and to Washington D. C.

And we are driving there, departing tomorrow the 4th September hoping to drive across Canada riding a bit every day, and enjoying the country.

Here we go again

Insanity in individuals is something rare – but in groups, parties, nations and epochs it is the rule.  Friedrich Nietzsche

Sometimes and more often is the case the best of all is your own little world.  Yesterday a group of us decided on a bike ride about the awesome trails of Anchorage.   Which ride to make of many dozens of choices, all of which we have done uncountable times.  Something different.  How about a brew pub ride?

Anchorage is noted for its plethora of brew pubs popping up about town.  I have never tried counting the numbers of different brew pubs, but we visited 5 yesterday and skipped over several more.

Began as usual from home riding the tour of Anchorage trail to meet friends at start of Campbell Creek trail and proceed that until bailing off the trail to ride the 2 blocks to Cynosure brewing.  I had told Jeanne in the beginning I was not sure I could drink all those beers coming up.  But she, being smarter than me, said one does not get one 16 ounce beer (325ML), but a sampler of the variety they offer.  Usually a sampler is 5-6 tasters of the maybe a dozen offered.  My memory does not go for 5 or 6 different tastes, as I can’t seem to remember each and require a larger quantity to instill my taste buds with the memory.

Ok one beer down and I realize I need food for the absortive qualities it offers.  Brewpubs like to make beer not food hence often do not serve food, but have rallied to have food trucks outside.  Cynosure did not have a food truck but double shovel was 3 blocks away.

Double shovel is a cider place and I went straight for the Filipino food truck, and had Joe order the drinks.  Great choices of food and the six of us had 2 sampler trays of various ciders.

On to the next site about a mile or so away, Turnagain brewery, which used to be King Street brewery before they moved down the street.  A barbecue food truck and I ordered a round of fried pickles to go with the beer.  This time again I had a full beer and others a sampler.  Sitting around with great conversation.

Back on the bike and we arrived at the new King Street Brewery with its brand new building.  Nice and big but very limited outdoor seating, the inside a nice decor of steel framework.  Unfortunately steel tends to bounce sound and not absorb, hence to place is loud, but another beer down.  Did not visit the food truck as slowing down quite a bit on the consumption.

Anchorage Brewing is around the corner with fire island bakery across the parking lot.  Unfortunately my drinking and eating abilities are not what they were in previous times, and we just looked.

But now time to return finding the bike path again and continuing westward to experience the new pavement laid down like smooth butter.  No potholes, cracks, frostheaves, and such.

A return to where we met and Jeanne and I returned home.  This was supposed to be an afternoon activity.  6 and 1/2 hours after depart we arrived home, after a delightful day.  27 miles of friends, beer, conversation, and I got to ride my bicycle. Life is good.

And holy mackerel, trying to find some sort of picture for this rambling, as I did not take any pictures, I found you can get tour companies to take you on this tour.  Wow $200 for a day tour.  Whew.  The world is crazy.

There’s a lot to learn for wasting time

Neil Young

My friend Günter from Germany is riding from Anchorage to San Francisco starting by heading north to Fairbanks, then over the Top of the World Highway to Dawson, Canada and on down south.  Originally he wanted to ride across North America west to east but several told him that was rather boring and better going north to south.  I met Günter when he joined the Andes Trail with bike dreams in 2014 for the last month into Ushuaia.  He now has another trip and I seem to live vicariously, so am helping him out.  He arrived Anchorage and departed a few days later after recovering from the jet lag.  He rode to Fairbanks, then was headed east. Here is my version, he tells his story in his blog, but it is in German.  http://guderley.com

Great fun. Talked with Günter last Saturday the 18 May, and he was a bit concerned about conditions on top of the world highway, as yet very early. I said I would check and call him back. Called the Dawson (Yukon Territory, Canada) visitor information whom I had talked to about a week ago. The incredibly pleasant ladies there said they would check and call me back. 15 minutes later I get the call and report in:  border crossing will open Monday, the gravel road is wet but good, and no established campground between Chicken and Dawson (about 200 kilometers). I called Günter and reported the results and offered if need be, I could drive up and offer help as need. Ok!  

Monday we talked again and he said it would be nice for me to come up, if for nothing  else than just to see each other again. I said I would meet him tomorrow in Tok, Tuesday afternoon. It would be I thought 6-7 hours drive to Tok, Alaska where we would meet and I would leave about 8 or 9 in the morning. I quickly threw some things in the car and had a delightful evening with Jeanne.  Oh boy a road trip.  It would be nice to go to the interior where supposedly weather is warm and sunny, unlike the coast.

Tuesday, I left about 9:10 after filling Volvo with petroleum and stopping at a bakery for treats for Günter. I arrived in Tok at about a quarter before 3 having basically set the speed control at the speed limit of either 55or 65 mph.  A wonderful drive although rain at Eureka summit crossing into the Copper River Valley, Mentasta Pass, crossing into the Tanana Valley which drains into the Yukon River, and the rain started again when I arrived in Tok. I am tired of clouds and rain. I am ready for some sunshine. It was been a wet chilly past month in Anchorage. Along the way were 4 big caribou, one grizzly bear, two big moose, plus maybe fifty swans.  

Günter was waiting in Fast Eddy’s  restaurant (the only place to eat in town) and we had some beer and a snack.  I needed some blood movement so went for a walk in the rain returning to our motel room soaked despite the rain jacket.  Dinner and to bed 

Wednesday, Morning found Günter departing about 8:30 and I about 10.   I caught him about noon in s heavy snow storm 50 kilometers up the road.  Temp about freezing but miserable biking conditions, he then joined me in the car to Chicken. Amazing as they asked if we had reservations and had no rooms to rent. 15 seconds later we have two of the more expensive motel rooms I have stayed at, but actually really nice, $89 each, no potable water, restrooms across the path to main building, heat is minimal and unfinished.  But we knew ahead of time that Chicken, Alaska was a remote site,  thus I brought 5 gallons of water and we could get all the bottle water we want (but store only open 8-4) 

As I remember it the day ended up rather inebriated. A wondrous evening, Günter and I went for a walk discovering all three cafes in Chicken were not yet serving food as too early in the season, so no food delivery until next week. But we have lots of cheese, bread, beer, and whiskey, thus no problem. The sun came out and we moved chairs to west side of building into the sunshine. Stacy from Austin Texas walks by our porch brings her bourbon which turned out to be rum, but all good, and we proceed from there. A fellow who grew up in Tok got a job here in Chicken for the summer joined us while he cooked his dinner in the back of his pickup truck.  We had a  great evening, just bullshitting, talking, laughing, drinking.   The only real discussion I remember was about Romania and watching the sun move across the horizon.  Life is good. 

And the best part of day. I got to help unload the truck of summer supplies. A semi truck. Life is really good.

Day 2  of being with Günter started mostly sunny with birds singing their morning symphony and I said I would catch up fairly quickly as he left about 7:30. Catching him soon, was not to be, as it turns out breakfast came with the room, which I discovered when going over to gift shop for morning coffee.  A waffle and sausage patty.  Not bad!  Conversations with more travelers with Florida license plates then onward, but a mile up the road is a hike which reportedly is bike able but I decided to walk and the decision was quickly verified when numerous down trees and boggy conditions would have made walking a necessity anyway.  A good walk overlooking an old abandoned gold dredge.  Lots of history in this 40 mile region.

Finally caught Günter after 3 hours as he was starting up the second big climb of day.  I drove to the top,  changed into biking gear and had a delightful downhill ride for  4 1/2 kilometer (3 miles) then climbing the 220 meter elevation gain back (700 feet)to car. Nice to ride again.  A stop for lunch at the top in the car when it started raining, then began to thunder and lightning.  After  a few minutes I said I had no interest in camping up here on ridge of “top of the world highway” in this weather, and he agreed.  We had hoped to get just beyond the U. S. Canadian border and camp, but glad we decided to head into Dawson.   Whew, snowing, cold temperature at freezing, driving  somewhat slow due to visibility, slush, and generally just not good especially for camping.  

We descended into Dawson taking the ferry over the Yukon river which gave us time to read texts which began arriving  just before the ferry as we got close to town and cell reception.  Somehow we survived 38 hours without WiFi internet access.  The clocks changed on phones with time zone, but  zero bars or reception. Amazing world when one can survive 38 hours without communication with the outside world. 

Found a hotel and moved in, having to change rooms once due to leaking ceiling from all the rain continuing to come down.  A dinner celebration, then on to “ Diamond Tooth Gertie”, a saloon, with can can show of the 1890,s. We noted that we were probably the oldest ones in there, but a very pleasant time.  

Friday, with great sadness I departed to return home.  Depressing, and I was wondering what the heck am doing.  Reached the ridge where conditions yesterday were bad, now starting to dry out, but I was  still feeling down, so changed clothes and went for a nice bike ride 10k down the road and returning to car feeling much improved.  Back on the road again, spirits lifted, and opted to take the “take at your own risk” road to the abandoned town of Clinton and the bridge over the forty mile river which we have floated several times.  This road had even less traffic and when you came across someone you stopped and talked.  One fellow (of the two cars I came across. turns out is the owner of the entire town of Clinton,  then returned to top of world highway. This road being somewhat busy with a car every 30 minutes you only wave when you pass someone.  

And easy going through border.  Farthest north U. S. border and not sure why they put it on the highest most remote section of the road.   Someone smarter than me, figures these things out.  

Now camping at our lunch spot where yesterday it was storming so bad.  Dinner and into tent before the rain started again, although did note a right rear tire on car a bit low so checked pressure and yes leaking.  Pumped it with the bicycle pump taking almost 15 minutes but exercise is good.  

In the morning tire looked ok but pressure down so pump again and drive to chicken where no tire repair, but a compressor.  I was told to be brave and get to Tok.  Stopped to pump the tire with bicycle pump 2 times in the hour and half drive (78 miles). I do have one of the doughnut lightweight spare tires, but have had very bad luck with them, and best if one can avoid it.  

Along the way looking for two women riding to Ushuaia, whom Günter had met along the way, but I did not see them. Did stop and talk with a couple of Germans heading to Las Vegas, and a couple from Utah heading to Utah. Nice to see people out and about exploring.

Made it back to Tok repaired tire for $25 pulling the rock which had punctured the tire.  A nice walk between rains and now back to Anchorage.  I think it is time to quit living vicariously.

The test of our progress is not whether we add to the abundance of those who have much, but whether we provide enough to those who have little

Franklin Roosevelt

Has been a great first day in Washington D.C., but we arrived last pm. Found a restaurant about 6 blocks away but proved great with a waiter who filled us with lots of local info. The walk home and unlocking the apartment I dropped the keys., when trying to unlock inner door. Did not hear them hit, but knew they fell. We could not find them in the dark but hooray for cell phone flashlights, which also refused to show the keys. Then we noticed the cover off the 3″ storm drain. At first did not see them but it was water about 2 feet down. Then I saw the green nylon cord they were on.

Suffice it to say it was a bit of a worry. Took us an hour an half to finally retrieve them. Difficulty finding a stick but then it just pushed whatever down further and I knew there was a drain somewhere down there. The owner was in Philadelphia and could not help. Jeanne went in search of a coat hanger and after 25 minutes returned having paid $20 to 4 month pregnant homeless lady to help find one. Still no luck, and now Jeanne called a locksmith but as he was explaining the difficulties the coat hanger managed to return the keys. An hour a a half.

The entry way with covered (now) drain

On to today though and started a Washington D. C. Walking tour of the monuments and memorials. I thought of my friend Zak who said everyone should visit there nations capital at least once. The history of the United States is amazing and it shows. I was impressed by the history of l,enfante who designed the mall at the direction of George Washington. He wanted a large space which over time one could show the monuments to our history. Wow. Impressive. The Washington monument is impressive from every angle and lighting. When built it was the tallest building in the world 550 feet. It is closed now for repairs of the elevators, but outside was blocked off, perhaps making a memorial of where I threw up in 1965.

Then the World War II memorial and on to Vietnam memorial. I never went to Vietnam but it had a huge affect on me, and the memorial brought me to tears. I tried to remember the names of the people I knew who were lost there, but my memory failed me.

There were two things which struck me today, the number of people who were willing to give their lives for their beliefs, throughout history, and the eloquence of some of our leaders.

vietnam memorialKorean war memorialKorean war memorial

We moved on and diverged for the self guided tour and walking to Arlington cemetery viewing the women’s war memorial and Kennedy gravesite.

Lincoln memorial not only with his statue but the Gettysburg address and his second inaugural address engraved on the side walls. Very powerful

As a newspaper reported recorded several years after Lincoln’s death:

“Washington taught the world to know us

Lincoln taught us to know ourselves”

Then to World War I and Martin Luther king jr.

School class with MLK

Then franklin Roosevelt and it was not the tiny little memorial but had been moved to cover 6 acres. There was the small memorial but much more covering his 4terms in office and how he raised the standards and pulled us through another world war.

Jefferson was the final visit of the day and it capped the wonders of the day taking us back to the writing of the Declaration of Independence.

now we were hungry, breakfast having worn off hours ago. We agreed to head home and try and find a restaurant along the way. Several restaurants, all closed. Finally found a Korean restaurant near home. Someone told us this is a business town and restaurants here do not cater to tourists. Not sure where they eat.

And we looked for my bike path I rode in on over 50years ago but could not find anything resembling my memory. If it was there it is a highway now.