Winter activity

The pleasure lies not in discovering truth

But in searching for it.

Leo Tolstoy 

Winter has arrived in Anchorage. Fall was one of the warmest on record and it just seemed to never cool down. The grass remained green. It was time to progress to winter according to the usual standards. I remember in 1995 we could ski out our door, on 5 October. OK I admit a bit of any anomaly but I declared that is the way it should be. Has not happened since and since the turn of the century, winter is often questionable. It is depressing. We had the SAD light out every morning, and the sunrise came later every day. Finally a trip to Seattle, and when we returned there was snow, and it cooled down. Amazing how our spirits rose. Not only was there snow, and I mean usable skiable snow, but it provided white to reflect the light at night and brighten things up. Our mental attitude vastly improved. Then it got cold, meaning winter was finally here. I say winter consists of three things – dark, cold and snow. If you only have dark that just does not cut it.

Zak melting snow off the snow gun with a propane torch. Last winter November 2024

I volunteer at the ski jumps, and making snow in the fall is a big deal, given the last years of warming trends. Last year, being one of the worst on record for warmups, we had to make snow 4 times, as it melted 3 times with horrible warmups, warm temperatures, and often wind, and sometimes rain, destroying the hard work.

January 13 2025 last winter, after a severe warmup. We did ice skate on it, but no skiing

This year though it got cold and the small downhill ski area near here (Hilltop ski area) and next to the ski jumps began blowing snow. Making snow is a process of spraying huge amounts of water under pressure to build the piles of snow needed. The temperature has to be below 25 degrees F. ( about -6 C) otherwise just water sprays out. The colder the better. At the ski jumps we use the Hilltop water from a local creek but there is only so much they can pump. They have a much larger area to cover and it takes a lot of time, as well as they require almost a meter to cover the lumps, bumps and rocks in the ground, as well as provide enough for potential meltdowns later. Their business model is a bit different than ours so they get preference, as it is their water. (They have to make money, we have to provide fun and activity) Hence when they get enough to cover enough area to open the area for a run or two of skiing, they then let us use one of thirty water connections. It works out good, as we need 3-4 days to cover our area and they require weeks. Good neighbors.

As Hilltop made enough snow for one good run, it was time for us, and it warmed up. Ugh. All snow making ceased. The natural snow and snow they had made remained but no snow making, until it cooled off. Temps went up to the mid 40s (8-9 C)

But after weeks of fretting and worrying, it cooled off again this time cold. The director of the ski jump program, Zak, gave clearance to start making snow. When one starts blowing snow it is a continuous process. Lay out the hoses and electrical cord, and get the snow gun in place. That takes about an hour, as the hoses are 50-150 feet long (15-45 meters) and we lay out nearly 500 feet (150 meters). When the water starts flowing at up to 100 gallons a minute (375 liters/ minute), if for whatever reason it gets turned off or stops flowing it can freeze in the hose within minutes, thus once you stop making snow it is continuous because to shut down is about a 2 hour process, taking hoses back and hanging them to drain and dry.

Ski trails near ski jumps. Awesome cross country skiing and biking

I love volunteering because I get to do useful work and get to do all sorts of stuff I never get to normally do. Plumbing, electrical, carpentry, design, and see the smiles and joy as the kids reap the rewards. Not only physical but mentally with figuring out how things work. We have what one calls a shoestring budget, and everything is very dear in terms of money, hence we are the crew.

The mental aspect is great as we have to not only figure out how to do something, but how to do it safely. Working with heavy equipment, in the cold has its potential problems. Not only is the water at way below freezing temperature, but the snow gun uses 440 volts and has its issues also, as well as the ski jumps have a 35 degree slope to contend with.

Over the years Zak and I have learned some tricks to make it safer and easier, and less tiring. Used to be when we blew snow one had to go and ski pack it closely after it was made, otherwise a hard crust would form over hollow snow. Then we obtained a snow cat 12000 pounds (5400 Kg) of tracked compaction and grooming capacity. One can blow snow into a pile and push it around and smooth it out. Wonderous labor saving device. And hilltop ski area has a night crew so the past two years Zak and I can set the gun for the night and they have offered to watch it. (Requires a minimum of every 2 hour verifying the water is flowing correctly and the fan and compressor are working.) Hence we can go home and sleep and not have to catnap on the floor, as in past.

Karl Eid Ski Jump Complex
Snowcat on the outrun pushing snow to appropriate location
Natasha and Jeanne brought dinner to the area

But we began setting up last Thursday and began blowing on Friday. We worked the gun, moving it around as necessary to the appropriate location. It is easier and more efficient to blow in places needed, rather than drag it around. We hoped to be done by Tuesday.

Approaching sunrise after a night of blowing snow. 8:45 am

All worked well, and the small 10 and 20 meter jumps were covered with about a foot of compacted snow (30 cm) . Zak, Natasha (another ski jumping coach) dragged the snow gun up the 40 meter hill pulling the water lines and electrical extension cord along with. It took a huge amount of work to get it down as it had to be pulled down through the new snow. Then the 65 meter hill ( which has a length of 120 meters, plus the runout area).

Working the machine down the 40 meter hill. It is stuck.
Working end of snow gun. Compressed water shoots out the nozzles and is blown by a meter wide fan, blowing it 10-30 meters, allowing the water to freeze hopefully before it hits the ground.

Monday we started working it up the 65 meter hill. We were counting down the distance remaining to go. Then with 35 meters to go (moving it 20 meters at a time) I was working on the hill pulling the water and electrical lines out from under the snow, when there was a loud pop, and the electricity cutoff, only water shooting out of the snow gun. I climbed the hill and turned on the power again, returning to get the lines out from the area now being covered by ice. This time though when I grabbed the extension cord it popped and sparks flew. I later told the boss of Hilltop ski area I was getting bored and his response was “well 480 volts will give you some excitement”)” this time it did not restart as the system had shorted and fuses blown. We had to shut down. Turn off the water, and drain hoses and fix extension cord.

Results of shorting out a 440 volt extension cord. (Lesson learned do not pull the line on extension cords, use the end pieces designed for disconnecting)
an hour after sunset Pix at 4:30 pm. Mt Redoubt.

It took all day Tuesday to repair the line as one has to work systematically in order to find the correct area. Turns out it was on the cord of machine and could not get the broken piece down hill or inside to warmth, thus had to work outside in temperatures around -4 F (-20 C) with fine detail work. Fun! or what I call fun! Why would one sit on a beach with nothing to do when you can do this.

Ski jump practice going on while blowing snow

It was a great relief after several trys when we got new hoses and plugged in the machine and it worked blowing snow. Again we could stand under the new snow coming out of machine being blown at 30-40 mph (50 – 60 km/hr). One comes away covered in an ice layer.

Snow cat in place for final movement of snow gun. 9:30 pm

We managed to get it blown Tuesday evening and set it up to blow a final pile of snow for areas missed. Wednesday Zak shut it down. Afraid I was totally exhausted.

Finishing work overlooking Anchorage

And now winter is in full swing. Of course could use some natural snow, but barring any meltdowns we are set. Past week and forecast for next week is good with temps around zero (-20 C) . Am happy have figured out how to dress for it and let the fun begin. As I walked a trail yesterday there were bikers and skiers out just enjoying the wondrousness of winter. Supposed to be northern lights out last night but my eyelids were closed.

Now I need to go for another walk while the sun is at its peak of 6 degrees above the horizon.

Short week visit Seattle

How lovely it is to do nothing and rest afterwards.
Spanish proverb

Sometimes it seems one must change things up a bit. A vacation like thing. It is here I confess I have fallen for the mileage plan gimmicks of Alaska Airlines. I needed 881 miles to achieve MVP status which gets me free checked baggage and a few inches more of leg room on the sardine tubes with wings. Unfortunately in Alaska, unless you are willing to take numerous days and travel via car and or boat, airplanes are our mode of travel. Often that longer journey is preferred but sometimes you just want to get there. If you want to spend time in Greece you have to go to Greece and skip over there wondrous areas in-between here and there. Alaska Airlines lists the route from Anchorage to Seattle as 1443 miles and about 3 to 3.5 hours plus airport times. As any older person will tell you, it was always better when we were young. I think we just choose to forget all the problems, inconveniences and remember the fond memories. Flying used to be fun and certainly a whole lot easier, or I remember it easier and definitely more fun.

Hence Jeanne and I are in Seattle, just for 4 days. Autumn colors were just past peak and we were visiting friends, walking about. Cities are great for walking. There are a variety of transportation modes to learn and utilize, but walking is for us a top notch way to just view neighborhoods, seeing the various ways people park their cars in garages, or driveways, or street side. We gave up renting a car years ago when in Seattle as crowded, parking impossible, and the train is so much easier. Then we uber/lyft from train station to wherever going. Or if only a mile or 2 just walk.

Not staying at friends opens up the world to explore and gives us our own quiet downtime. Have a good hotel next to Lake Union and get to sit and watch the kayaks, sculls, floatplanes, boats cruise about.

Tuesday was a day to visit Maralyn, a dear friend from Colorado College days numerous decades ago. We recently saw her at French Glen in Oregon. Now retired, she remains an artist, an avid artist. After some computer work updating her computer, hopefully without losing any valuable photo albums, we set off to find a new sculpture by John Grade, called Union Sculpture, along a trail at the Washington Park Arboretum. A delightfully thoughtful piece hanging from the trees. evoking thoughts of forests, fishing, sunlight, who knows what. As Maralyn, Jeanne and I were there staring upward and a lady walks up and says “What’s that”? Maralyn realizing not everyone is into art as she is and says something like “That is art, it is to inspire you” I roughly paraphrase her as I cannot remember exactly what she said. The lady continued on the trail looking upward at the piece, until she passed it and resumed her trail walk.

John grade union sculpture

A wonderful Mexican meal, some cruising about Lake Washington of which Maralyn has had a lifelong admiration for. Dinner at another awesome restaurant along the Lake adding more Colorado College friends.

Lake Washington sunset with Mt. Rainier

Wednesday was the day for us to discover Seattle. Having been here numerous times. since 1962, it is always interesting to rediscover. Boeing aircraft started here, and now home to Microsoft, Amazon, and Starbucks. It has grown and suffered growing pains. Diverse, multicultural, and a multitude of activities. , Yet again, Jeanne and I chose the main tourist stuff. We walk the couple miles toward Pikes Market.

Biodome downtown Seattle.

Pikes Market used to be a market for fish and groceries now it is a famous tourist attraction market, with seafood displays, and produce and art stalls of home made wares for sale, worthy of a walk through.The city has cleaned up the area a bit from the old dirty streets and made a overpass walkway to the docks, now more tourist stuff, than working docks.

Walkway by Pikes Market

A trip to the ferris wheel, and then the aquarium.

Moon Jelly’s

We had hoped to go to Pioneer Square with the variety of activities there, parks, bookstores, and the klondike museum (about the Alaska gold rush to the Klondike which is in Canada). Alas the oyster bar got in the way requiring seafood ingestion, and then we needed a nap. Alas the city is not good for that, but the Washington state ferry was right there, as it is a dock. Hence we hopped on the 1/2 hour ride to Bainbridge, got off , back on and return. Now getting dark, and decided rather than train or walk, we explored the bus service. In the past has been excellent and proved to be the same. 3 blocks from ferry to start and unfortunately I did not know it stopped in front of our hotel, and we got off 200 meters ahead, requiring a walk.

Thursday was Jacqui day, another friend from Colorado College days. She had planned a lunch at her place then a walk about Green Lake near her place. Frank, her boyfriend met us there for a superb meal. Unfortunately it was raining, although I am not sure we noted that until after we had sat, catching up on the time between last visits.

Then to a restaurant Jeanne and I found just wandering the neighborhood a couple of years ago when we stayed at an airBNB nearby. We met our nephew and his wife and yet another stupendous meal. Jacqui and Frank accompanied us on our walk to the restaurant, adding to our time together.

Friday we were too fly home and I am actually excited to fly in the middle of the day instead of the usual 4-5 am arousal time to get to a 6 or 7 am flight. Alas it falls into the category of enjoy yourself now because you know not what is around the corner. For some reason my body decided to rebel against some foreign invader, probably picked up on a handrail, random wall, table, bench, whatever. No one else got it, but I realized I did not want to be on a plane or even more so, the passengers on that plane did not want me on it. Jeanne changed our reservations first to later in the afternoon, then to Saturday. It reminded me of the time in ‘South America bike ride when suddenly one night I became violently ill and spent the night in a campground shower. Ugh Wrote about that in this blog “Existence” occurring on 2 November 2014.

Saturday we arose felt good and walked the 2 kilometer (1.2 miles) to the train, had the easiest time ever going through TSA. I think it was a compliment when the agent said the government would like to clone me for going through so easy. Not sure that is a compliment, but prior the Seattle airport has always been one of my worst TSA experiences.

Getting there early to allow for TSA we had time and got some Orange chicken and rice for lunch. It came with a fortune cookie.

Adventure is not on the outside

It is inside

Fortune cookie

Wisconsin

Thinking is difficult, that is why most people judge.

Karl Jung

Traveling is always an iffy business. Generally, animals face their highest risks while traveling on migration. And I feel much the same when traveling. Things do not always go as expected. From Carson City, and a wonderful visit with friends there, we went to Reno to fly to Chicago. Unfortunately, Alaska Airlines’ flight was delayed 3 hours, which put us into Seattle at the same time our plane to Chicago took off. In their generosity, AlaskaAir was going to rebook us to Chicago, arriving at 5:30 a.m. That sort of voided the hotel, which was already paid for and meant no sleep for the baseball game. Jeanne is a Sapphire, Gold member with Alaska Airlines and got on the phone. Using her sugar and spice attitude, she managed to rearrange us on American Airlines to Phoenix and onto Chicago, arriving at the same time as the first flight.

This trip started with Maralyns invitation, in May, to go to Frenchglen. Then my cousin, Tom, visited us this past summer, and said we should come to his cabin on Pine Lake in wisconsin. He sweetened the offer with a baseball game at Wrigley Field. From there the trip progressed to include visitations of various friends and relatives scattered in the area. Seems we know a fair number of people, whom we keep in contact with.

Arrived Chicago, Friday at 12:30 am, train to hotel, and my cousin Tom picked us up at 11 am. We had lunch and onto the baseball game. Chicago Cubs vs the St.Louis Cardinals, an old rivalry. I had been to one professional game in my life in 1991, but had to leave due to an illness. I was excited.

Wrigley Field Chicago Cubs vs. St. Louis Cardinals

We walked in just as the national anthem begun. Wrigley field is one of two iconic baseball fields in the United States, Fenway park in Boston being the other. Holds approximately 45,000 people which is a lot of energy. Apparently much of its charm is it is not a big megalopolis complex but a neighborhood baseball field. Parking is about the neighborhood. I like baseball, but am far from a diehard fan and especially not a tribal member. I just like good baseball. Jeanne grew up in St.Louis and Tom is a diehard Cubs fan so was interesting. The game was awesome, with the energy, watching the goings on, especially with home runs, scores, changes in innings, the singing, the cheering. The 7th inning stretch, the final winning celebratory song, and of course the the beer, which cost $15 per beer, but I wanted the whole experience and it was 91 degrees F (32.8 C), and we were in the sun. Enjoyable to watch the players setting up in their positions. I thought they were checking their phones, but they were checking the stats of the batter.

Walking to car after game

Then off to my cousins place, an hour out of town, and spent the night. Great to catch up. He had visited us this past summer, but now on his turf. Always interesting to see people in their own environment. His wife Ilona ws caring for her agin father from Hungary, and was unable to attend baseball or the cabin, but delightful to see her, meet her father, and see the farm.

Saturday was to be a big day. We started, with an hour drive south, to Jeanne’s cousin who had just moved from their house of 54 years into an apartment complex. They were quite appreciative, that we had come to visit, despite it only being a couple hours.

Cousins Betsy, & Don

Then back north and to Eau Claire, Wisconsin, with more visiting. This time, some friends of ours and parents  of a ski jump coach in Anchorage.  We saw where Natasha grew up and became Natasha. A 50-meter ski jump in the backyard. But alas, the visit is short, as the day is progressing. I do not drive as well at night, so I am trying to get to the lake cabin before dark. It was good visit though.

Visiting Lisa and Dan Mattoon
Mattoon Backyard

We made it to the cabin on Pine Lake only an hour after dark, avoiding the evening deer, wandering the forest roads. My sister, had arrived from Montana and her family, 4 hours earlier, guiding us by flashlight the final few hundred feet of rough road. Tom , my cousin, arriving shortly before her, not having to stop and visit along the way.

Pine Lake Wisconsin
Pine Lake Cabin

The cabin was built in 1933 by my Aunt Shirleys Uncle Henry. There is actually a UTube video of it of 1933 quality. (Construction of Pine Lake cottage 1933) It has passed down through the family, and Tom currently has it. He is a very gracious person, host, and we felt very welcome. We just explored, walking, going out on the boat, several loons coming out to meet us. Occasionally diving under the boat swimming incredibly gracefully.

Watching Loons
Common Loon

One delightful morning my sister and I took the boat out and watched the sun rise. Incredible woods with colors just beginning to change, with the variety of trees. Maple, white pine, ash, birch, larch, and others unidentified by me.

Sunrise Pine lake
Lake Exploration

Evening found us playing the game of aggravation. This is a board game played by our family for generations. Currently nearly all farmily members have a board made by some member of the family. I have never seen a commercial game similar. We probably played a dozen games over the three days.

Day three was another cubs baseball game and Tom is an avid follower. For me it was not the same. Pure baseball with no seeing the in-between stuff. You don’t see in between innings. The seventh inning stretch was a commercial. The announcer explaining every move so very little thought as to what was happening. Ok I am being negative. It just was not the same as in person, although good baseball. Apparently Eddie Veder led the seventh inning song.

Practicing Being Old (my niece Sara defining us)
New friends

Then time to depart, oh sweet sorrow again. As is often the case sometimes a short visit is better than too long, as it leaves you wanting to come back for more. But traveling on, this time to Zak’s parents on the Michigan – Wisconsin border. a 4 hour drive. It all seems so close when looking at a map from a long ways away, but in reality the world is a big place.

Arriving early evening, Mike and Carol took us out to a local “supper club”. Apparently that is a Wisconsin thing. I am always fascinated by local traditions and culture. I was amazed at the prices. $12.00 for a 8 oz steak with full baked potato and salad. $140 for 4 people with alcohol for dinner. At home that would be double that.

Hammill visit Jeanne, Carol, Mike, J. R.

Thursday, Mike and Carol took us on a tour of the area. Various industries, places they had lived, and of course the Pine Mountain ski jump complex. A 120 meter jump, Olympic size only set up for winter jumping. Fascinating to see other jumps, construction style and materials. More ideas.

Returned to their home and we were going to head out for a little river excursion on the Menamenee River behind their house. No boat for all 4 of us, but decided on two small boats with 2 hp motors. While Mike got some gas for motors and other stuff, it fell upon me to just test out the boats. First one worked great, second one he warned me his concerns. I thought he said the motor was difficult but what he said was the boat was tippy and difficult. Whatever. In I go after checking out the first boat. Just 30 meters upriver and return. Did great, turned around, but alas the seating was difficult to drive the motor and I turned myself in the boat. This threw off the balance, which I did not expect and over I went. The boat and motor completely tipped over on top of me. I easily got out from under, was able to stand and pushed it into the proper upright position. Unfortunately, completely full of water with the motor submerged. On shore I hear Carol and Jeanne laughing hysterically. I think they may have peed their pants laughing so hard. I pulled the boat back in, emptied it out but the motor was soaked.

Menominee River adventures
Recovery
Return from the river

It seemed our river trip was not to be. I was totally soaked along with wallet and phone. Instead of river trip we opted to sit around the fire, just enjoying the evening.

Evening stories
Share airport train from car rental to airport

A few adventures during the night, then a long drive back to OHare airport and two long flights home to Anchorage. Arrived at 3 am and fell into bed exhausted, but full of memories of friends and family.

Frenchglen, Oregon weekend

Failure is where we learn the most.

Faith Dickey (professional highliner)

My friend Maralyn is a friend from Seattle. I first met her as a freshman in Colorado College. This happened, shall we say, over 50 years ago. She is as I describe, a poor starving artist who is one of the most delightful people you could ever meet. She has gone to this little hotel in Frenchglen, Oregon for over 40 years as a little retreat. This year she invited us and we made the time available, mid to end September. I checked for reservations and alas very full, and this was May_June. Geez who thinks that far ahead? But got them and on waiting list for Friday night, which was successful two weeks prior to our arrival.

Then, one of my cousins, while visiting this summer said we needed to come visit, enticing us with a baseball game at Wrigley Field, in Chicago. I have been to one- half of a game in St, Louis. OK-it seemed we could tack it on to the Frenchglen trip. Then there is the “family cabin which my cousin Tom has in mid Wisconsin, not too far. Well the trip has ballooned into a huge visiting people. to be revealed. Jeanne flew into San Francisco, rented a car, and drove to a friends house to visit in Gilroy, the garlic capital of the world. Then to friends near Yosemite National Park where she worked and lived for 4 years. Two days there and on to another friend who used to live in Alaska and now is a campground host.

Jeanne picked me up in Reno, Nevada Thursday night. Friday we drove to Frenchglen, a small unincorporated town in southern Oregon. It is near the Malheur Wildlife refuge. A drive of about 380 miles(611 kilometer) made in about 6 1/2 hours, stopping Winnemucca, Nevada to visit more friends. Driving north, I recognized the area as a desert. It was transitioning into high desert, similar to Southern Idaho where I spent grades 1-8 going to school there.

I did learn that it is not really what I called a high desert – sagebrush, cold winters, hot summers, very dry. It is not a desert which by definition is very little precipitation. Frenchglen gets about 15” (38cm) of precipitation a year, similar to(slightly less) than Anchorage, Salt Lake City. Seattle gets about 40″ (101cm). It snows a lot in the winter in Frenchglen and the Steens Mtn. scenic loop does not open until late May or later, due to snow. Turns out sagebrush requires too much water to live in a desert. Thus the area is actually called a shrub steppe. Whoopee.

We stayed at the Frenchglen hotel, registered on the National Historic register since 1924. A delightful place, although as with old wooden hotels, one wants to check the fire escapes when you move in. Meals are family style, which leads to wonderful conversations, with what I would call an eclectic group. There were several artists. They worked in oils, watercolors, and wood. A couple worked in environmental areas. They also occasionally worked in theatre as performers and directors. A seismologist, a geologist, and an architect were also present. One lady had worked in Los Angeles as an accountant. She tired of being inside, and her family was in Oregon. She quit her job, became a truck driver, and moved near Astoria, Oregon. A variety of people and delightful conversations.

Sunrise

The last morning, Maralyn and I were watching the sunrise from the front porch when a pickup truck pulled up. An apparent local then came in, and Maralyn and I hit him up before the front door was closed. Delightful character answering our numerous questions concerning ranching in the area. His job for the day was transporting 3 truckloads of hay to a ranch farther north. The big round rolls of hay. We learned a huge amount about hay and bailing it up, transporting for the winter. The coffee finally finished, and we all had to precede with our day.

But driving there one looks out and goes “there is nothing here, what have I signed up for” But I knew it is a “desert”, and what there is there, is definitely hiding and one has to look to see. Deserts are full of life. You just have to open up. Look as if you were in the desert, not as a human. Fascinating places but these areas require a change of attitude to see the glories.

The first day everyone proceeded to their own destinations. First I queried the geologist on the local geology. Geologists are generally incredibly passionate about geology, and almost always are willing to share their knowledge. This one very much so. I got a quick and dirty semi advanced geology lesson of lava flows, basalts, and such.

Jeanne and I drove the Center Patrol Road (CPR) sort of down the middle of Blitzen River Valley. Stopping to view turkey vultures, ranches, the river, drainage ditches, and efforts to control invasive critters and weeds.

Then came the visitor center at Malheur wildlife refuge. the visitor center was closed, not for lack of visitors or any known reason. But the book store and nature center was open and the volunteer there was delightful and informative.

We proceeded to the narrows between some ponds and viewed all sorts of birds. I am not much at identifying birds, but it is fascinating watching them. We hoped to see the western grebes dancing across the top of the water. Unfortunately, they just wanted to run about the water. Stopped at Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Areas too view volcanic result

Sunday, Maralyn and Mary, who attended Colorado College with me and have maintained close contact ever since, along with Jeanne, drove the Steens Mountain Loop. The road is a 60 mile (100 k) loop. It goes from Frenchglen, which is at 4200 feet elevation (1280 meters), and rises to 9500 feet (2895 meters). Several canyons originate near the summit ridge. The aspen trees were beginning to change colors. But the best part was to spend a wondrous day with these three ladies.

Wildhorse Lake and a selfie.
Kiger Canyon

Boxed Lunchs

Alvord Desert

Monday, most people were departing, making room for a new set of visitors. Jeanne and I headed south. We went off course once to visit the Alvord Desert. It’s below Steens Mountain on the opposite side from Frenchglen. Stopped at Fields at the one store and got a milk shake. A repeat of the drive up, a long 6 hour drive to Reno. We visited Neva, who had come up to visit this summer. We delivered a photo book and video of her trip to Alaska this past summer. She is 13 years old and had spent 10 days with us.

It was a long day. I fell asleep early and long. Now in Carson City, Nevada visiting another good friend.

Summer and that means visitor

Failure seldom stops you. What stops you is the fear of failure.

Jack Lemmon

Interesting summer, but that is usual. In Alaska seems there is no such thing as a normal summer. At the beginning of the summer several of us were discussing the usual,quandary of what will the season be like. The choices were rainy, cool, cloudy, or hot, dry and smoky. Predicting the future is always a go to conversation and almost always a waste of time. It will be what it will be. But we continue with the predictions of the future.

After the boat trip in southeast, it seemed an auspicious beginning, but the weather forecasts often stated otherwise. Cloudy rain were the predictions, but often did not come true. 3 times this summer I arose in the morning, as usual and read the weather report, 3 times it said it was raining and going to rain all day. I looked outside and had to remember basic weather. Does not rain require clouds, as it was a blue sky, clear day. Sometimes you have to think for yourself and not depend on others. The summer turned out to be one of the best. And I am backed up by the energy output of our solar panels. 2nd best year in 8 years. 3700KW this year.

Summertime in Alaska for us these days means visitors. The story I tell, although short and to the point as well as a story is, we had visitors every day from June 4 until the 24 of July, with 7 days off of which we flew to Portland Oregon and picked up a car we had purchased and drove it home, a 2500 mile trip.

New used car from Portland Oregon enroute to Alaska

It occurs to me that when one is home one does not think of it as an adventure or a trip or such thing. It is just normal life. But why does everyone come to Alaska to visit on vacation. I live here, just normal existence, and do not write about it because it is just normal.

Summer ski jumping camp. Hike to portage glacier
Summer solstice sunset 23:41(11:41 pm)

Visitors bring out the spectacular in Alaska. We did the 26 glacier cruise day trip, viewing, yes, 26 glaciers although they are shrinking fast and are not as spectacular as in the past. ( But then what isn’t better in my memory) We did it twice. For me though, the Kenai Fjords tour is taking over, as the spectacular one. Both see wildlife and glaciers, and despite some people saying “If you have seen one glacier you have seen them all”, I never tire of glaciers. Always interesting always changing, always spectacular.

Pacific coastline covered in kittiwakes, gulls and a sea lion
Hiking Matanuska glacier

And the wildlife, stellar sea lions, puffins, (tufted and horned), salmon, a smack of jellyfish, bears, goats, sheep, moose, seals, herons, the list goes on and on.

Did some work building new stairs for jumps (250 steps)
Backyard moose
Backyard

And our freezer is full of fish. Fortunately or unfortunately I am not one who necessarily enjoys fishing for the sake of catching fish. Get a net and catch what you need and move on to something more fun. Different strokes for different folks.

Mt Huntington summit French ridge
Ruth glacier landing
McLaren river valley
Blueberry picking
One of the worlds largest Ukrainian flags

And so goes summer 2025, now into the fall season. One of main discussions is what will the winter bring, miserable warm no snow, or cold and good snow. ?? the questions of the future go on.

And it continues

Home again

If I had my life to live over again, I would have made a rule to read some poetry and listen to some music at least once every week.

Charles Darwin

Made it back yesterday afternoon. 2491 miles (4009 Km) 50 hours and 7 minutes drive time. (Thanks to the wonderment of the new car, it recorded that), 6 days total and as noted too fast. We did the final push in 6.5 hours with only one stop to empty bladders. Whew. Before leaving talked with some motorcyclists from Michigan touring the route we just did. They were scheduled to go to Whittier today, and I mentioned I would be there for hiking. Interesting the various convergences.

Incredible country- we went through the rain forests of northwest United States, the rain forests of coastal Canada, into the dryer interior lands with big rivers. The flatlands between the Canadian Rockies and the coastal range. Along the interior side of the Wrangell St. Elias mountains, and home. When we left Haines Junction yesterday after our Canadian Chinese breakfast it felt like we were in our homeland again. Then we got to the Chugach Mountains of Southcentral Alaska. Beautiful day, and the mountains greeted us in good fashion.

Mt. Wickersham

Arrived home and friends came over to welcome us home. The summer ski jumping solstice camp is going along and some of parents from previous years came over and was good to reacquaint.

Road Trip II

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Departed Hazelton and made it the 45 km to Kitwanga for breakfast at roadside gas station. Only game around and ordered the 2x2x2x2 breakfast- 2 eggs, 2 bacon, 2 ham, 2 spam, 2 toast, and hash browns. Then on to the totem park, for a quick tour, then began the 450 miles (724 km)of Cassiar Highway. We have done it several times winter and summer. and always a treat. Not as developed as the Alaska Highway, being more winding and mountainous. We expected a fair amount of traffic due to the Alaska highway being closed, but not bad. Had no issues whatever. And the scenery was great. It is entirely paved now except for tiny sections undergoing construction. As before though the southern end is much better than the northern end which gets a bit rough and narrower.

Kitwanga totem park
Great rest stops and frequent.
180 degrees from previous picture
Approaching Stikine river Bridge.

A tiny room barely enough room to squeak around the bed and a shared bathroom.

We realized we were probably not going to make it the entire Cassiar unless we pushed later than we like. I looked at Jade City, a mining place with, I thought a motel and restaurant. We had the Milepost – the guide to driving the highways, byways and routes to and around Alaska. It listed only a small 4 room motel and no restaurant. The next one was another 75 miles (120km) going south when we reached the Alaska Highway to Watson Lake. Dease lake motels were full and it was only 2 pm, way too early to stop there, so on we went to see what Jade City offered. We arrived at about 7 pm and motel seen, but office closed up. Jeanne knocked and a nice lady came and unbolted some major dead bolts. They negotiated a price involving credit card, cash, Canadian money, and American money. Settled on $120 US with a 10 dollar Canadian change given. Price was $110 so we lost a bit, but it was the last room, so we got a place to stay. We had eaten a fair quality hamburger in Dease Lake, so food was not an issue.

Picture taken from opposite corner.

“In the morning supposedly they had breakfast, but none to be found. We flunked the coffee making in Keurig coffee machine managing to spill water all over the counter and floor using up precious coffee modules. As another resident said “us old people don’t do well with the fancy coffee machines. How about just a percolator or the drip kind” Fancy coffee machines, but they give powdered creamer with the coffee.

On to Nuggett City at the junction of Cassiar and Alaska Highway for breakfast. One item only 2 over easy eggs, ham, hash browns, and toast, but you can upgrade to bacon if you want. No changes including changing over easy scrambled eggs. They could do the eggs over hard though. Again flexibility is required.

Then Whitehorse which we have always liked. The town has never let us down. Arrived a bit early for stopping but one must at least walk to the Yukon and Miles Canyon, which we did. Realized our friend Sheila, back in Portland Oregon, had said to eat some donut holes from Tim Hortons for her. Tim Hortons is a Canadian chain of restaurants scattered all over Canada. Thus to fulfill our obligation, knowing it was last Tim Hortons for us, on this trip, we went into town and ordered donut holes. Then discussing later plans we realized food later was again going to be shall I say not at a time we wanted. One must be very flexible when driving the highway. Thus we ordered a sandwich and a chicken bowl. Sandwich OK, bowl very good.

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Miles Canyon Yukon river

The discussion continued about plans. We had hoped to be back to Anchorage by Tuesday night, making it a five day drive. It seems though 500 mile days (800 km) is a bit much for us not leaving anytime for hiking, viewing stopping and just unlaxing at rest areas. Have done the trip in 3.5 days but it was drive, sleep quick, drive, and eat in car. Seems a crime through such beautiful country. From Whitehorse it is 706 miles home (1136 km). Doable but not really fun. Thus maybe stay in Whitehorse. The fires are done and a bit of rain cleared the air, so air quality is good. I have said 8 days is a reasonable quick trip. I did the trip about 10 years ago and told myself I had all the time I wanted. Alas after 4 days I had only gone 350 of the 2400 miles. I picked up the pace and did it in 12.

There is a delightful hot springs outside Whitehorse which we have often stayed at. We found it the first time on a winter drive. It delighted us soaking in the hot pools at -20 degrees (-30C), mallard ducks overwintering in the pool swimming with me.

1990 Takhini Hot Springs ducks

We checked at going to Takhini, but it seems they have gone to a high end spa type. The old bunkhouse hostel has been turned into a high end Air B & B. I guess they don’t want our types any more. 300/night 2 night minimum. We opted for a downtown motel, and walked about Whitehorse. We found ourselves at a delightful restaurant and bar- The Dirty Northern. We ate outside in sunshine and had a couple appetizers and booze. A delightful waitress who could not give recommendations as she was only 18 and drinking age is 19.

Thus here we are in Tok, Alaska after a 385 mile day (611 KM). Not sure what is going on but hotels and restaurants are packed. Locals say it is just tourists but I have never seen crowds like this. Guess I usually camp or just don’t pay attention in the summer. Again for the third time on this trip we got the last room. It is a few miles out of town in a little cabin.

Since departing last thursday we have travelled 2162 miles (3479Km) in 5 days with 44 hours and 6 minutes of driving. Hopefully tomorrow home with about 385 miles (619 Km) left. We started with sunset at 9:05 pm in Portland and tonight the sun sets at 11:48. A bit farther north. and solstice next week. Almost forgot to write the animal count. several deer, hare, squirrels, 1 dead porcupine, 1 moose, a sow grizzly and cub, 3 fox, swans, hawks, and the list goes on.

And getting into the United States was probably the easiest time I or we have ever had. Showed passports waited 30 seconds and he said enjoy our day. ????

Roberts Lodge in Tok, Alaska

Road Trip

What counts in life is not the mere fact we have lived.  It is what difference we have made to the lives of others that will determine the significance of the life we lead.

Nelson Mandela 

Has been an interesting beginning to summer. First an early ending to snow and what usually is called winter. And it has been cooler and rainier than usual it seems. Clouds and rain have been the norm although certainly a few days of wondrous sunshine.

Then Jeanne hit a bollard at the gas station in her beloved 13 year old Volvo, which she loved and had said it would be her last car. Unfortunately the estimates came in at $11000 and $15000. Zounds! Amazing for a 2 mph crash. I guess bumpers are not designed for bumping. It did push the wheel back a little but we drove the totaled car onto the tow truck. Then the search for a new one.

$11,000 to $15000 dollar repair. Totaled.

We have always bought our cars from down south, i.e. the lower 48, because prices are ridiculous in Alaska and dealers will not even think of meeting the price even with shipping a car to Alaska. Thus we searched all over the United States, eliminating the east because of salt, and the south because of flooding. We finally settled on a 2023 used Volvo XC 60 what they call a mini hybrid. (Mini hybrid apparently means you do not plug it in and the electric motor helps the gas motor, as opposed to a full hybrid, which plugs in, where the gas motor helps the electric, sort of). And the good part, it was in Portland Oregon which meant relatively close. But the dealer had to have it off their lot within 5 days. The dealer did not make it easy. We have purchased several cars and all were very easy – send us the money and we will send you a car or you can come get it and drive it home. Not this time. Notaries, even fingerprints, wired cash did not give us a warm fuzzy feeling of dealing with them. We almost called it off several times thinking it was scam. All this while Jeanne’s family was with us. We thought of having a friend pick it up at dealer and store it at their house near Portland for a few weeks until the timing would be better, but after the hassle of us buying it, probably would be an even bigger hassle for someone to pick it up. And the rest of summer is busy with ski jumping camp, and more visitors. Timing was and is bad.

Knik arm Anchorage, Alaska

Family left Wednesday afternoon and Thursday we were on a plane at 5 am for Portland. We arrived at 11:30 am at the dealer and picked up the car. They were very nice explaining a lot of the whatnot, doodads, bells and whistles on the car. By 12:30 we were on the road.

First visited a friend of mine, from Colorado College which we attended several decades ago. It was a great visit, although sad due to a brain tumor and she is in a nursing home on hospice care nearing the end.

Then on to the friends who had offered to pick up the car and store it for a few weeks. They served us lunch and off we drove north, getting to nearly Seattle.

New (2 year old) car for us.

Friday a breakfast with a friend who had to serve as proxy for all the friends we have in Seattle area. Departed Seattle and made it across the Canadian border easily, apologizing to the border officer for the United States current belligerence. The officer responded with “we will all get through it”. Hopefully getting back into the United States will not be a problem.

The drive up through Skagit valley was incredible. The farmland in the valleys of incredible hills and cliffs with the Fraser river running through it. Then the Thompson river with the high flow of water, made me ponder the huge hydraulics of a big river. Trains ran both sides of river and I measure one parked train at a mile long (1.6 km). Either coal or gravel it seemed.

We left the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest and went into more dry lands of sagebrush and cattle country. Made it to 100mile house where we spent the night and a surprise dinner at the German restaurant which served only kebabs, but very good ones.

Today cruised 450 miles to Hazelton covering a lot of flat ground, with delightful scenery. Always a treat to look out and see the distant horizon beckoning. I seem to never tire of that. “The horizon beckons and I must go” I believe Jack Sparrow said, in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Tonite here in New Hazelton we wanted a beer but only a liquor store and one restaurant, which happened to be a Chinese restaurant. Pilsner beers are not our favorite but that was what we had. Not quite half way, 1050 miles done 1500 to go. (1690 km and 2400 km) I had hoped to be home by Tuesday, now Saturday, don’t think we will make it. Alas, it is a wonderful drive.

Due to forest fires the usually faster alaska highway is much slower now

Summertime

The question is not what you look at, but what you see

Henry David Thoreau

Summertime in Alaska is always greatly anticipated. Warmth, green, life abounding. It is a treat to watch the season progression. Seems whenever someone asks me what is my favorite season, somehow it always seems to be the season we are currently in. I love the changes and advancement, although I might take an exception to springtime. It drags on and is often muddy and dirty, as the snow melts and the misled garbage and dirt from the winter makes its appearance. This past year was weird as we had very little snow, and when it melted the leaves and green were yet weeks away. We got an extra month of brown. But now we are in full summer. Someone once told me Alaska in the summertime is just various shades of green everywhere.

Years ago I had worked In Barrow, now Utqiagvik, at 71 degrees north. I returned to Fairbanks the first of June and had been in snow, ice, since October. I remember flying in and my eyeballs hurt from suddenly seeing green, and the smell. Oh the smell was incredible.

But now summer is in full swing, and there is an extra energy about. Hence the boat tour in Southeast Alaska, and trails opening up. And people begin coming out more. I am surprised every year by how much more activity there is in the summer. More people, more cars on the road, and of course what would Alaska be without visitors.

Jeanne’s family has not been here to visit in 25 years and it was time. This past week we have been hosting their visit. Jeanne’s sister, brother-in-law, niece, husband, 5 year old son, nephew, and Jeanne and I. Of course we want to show off our home, and I think we have been doing a fair job of doing that. Glen Alps hiking, Eklutna Lake viewing, the Amoosement Park in Palmer, Thunderbird Falls hike, Musk Ox farm, glacier and wildlife boat tour out of Whittier, Kincaid Park, and now in Seward.

Yesterday Jeanne and I dropped the family at the Anchorage train station at 6 am where they proceeded on the 5 hour trip via Grandview to Seward. Jeanne and I drove in the absolutely pouring rain arriving a few hours after they did. (We had some business to do, delaying our departure). A visit to the Sealife Center, where the aquarium is I feel a great experience for viewing wildlife, not exactly in the wild but one can see the puffins, guillemots, and murres swimming underwater, and the harbor seals, and sealions. I confess my favorite was the aquarium of seemingly empty sea water, but when you put a magnifying lens to it, the zooplankton were swimming about. Plus the intertidal touch ponds, and lots of information. Not like the real thing but certainly easier than reality to access.

Today we will walk the beach a bit, depending on rain, then we will go to Exit glacier, for annual check of how far back the glacier has receded. Amazing to think of the glacier face on the river plain and one could touch it (safely). Now it has melted back miles and lost hundreds of feet of depth. Amazing to see. We always tell people if you want to see glaciers do it now, because they won’t be here in the not so distant future. Absolutely amazing phenomenon, although I find most things in nature phenomenal.

Nobbe, Lakey, Molitor, and Patee clan
And looking to the Northwest with a view of Anchorage and Denali if you can see through the clouds.

Amoosement Park
Backyard moose real
Thunderbird falls
Sealife Center
Receding Glaciers Cascade, Barry, and Cox. When I first went there the three were connected.
Cascade and Barry Glacier in 1989.

It is a treat to show off our home. It falls into the category of it may not be perfect, but for me, this is a pretty amazing place to live.

Boat travel

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Quite a week a one week boat cruise, although not as one thinks a Cruise. This was a relatively small boat. 37 passengers as opposed to a 3000 passenger trip. Boarded in Sitka alaska and cruised for 7days. When it was over one of the crew asked what was best part of the week. I had to think, always a tough proposition. A sow brown bear with2cubs, only to be bested by a sow with 3 cubs, only to be bested by humpback whales, only to be bested by orca whales, only to be bested by sea lion rookery with them checking us out closely (read keep your hands inside the skiff, only to bested by the orcas breaching next to the boat, to be bested by the mountain goat feeding just above a humpback cruising below, along with tufted puffins, and all interspersed with glaciers, fjords, hiking, kayaking, swimming. What was best?

Thinking about it I had to think it was the crew serving us. Their enthusiasm for not only serving our incredible meals, but their enthusiasm for being there, and seeing what we were seeing, answering never ending questions, or finding the answer. People who have a passion for what they are doing. People who work well together from the captain, to the chef, to the servers, to the boat crew whether they be full rated mates or the deckhands.

Admiralty Dream
One week travel
Brown bear and cubs
Orca photo by Margret Fleming
Tufted puffins photo by Jan Whelan
Sea otter and flounder catch photo by Jan Whelan
Skiff crew Ed and Carley
Dawes glacier remains
Barb and Steve after 38F (4 degrees C) swim
Tlingit cultural presenters in Kake, Alaska. Story almost as good as the bedtime stories told vey night by Bailey, the expedition leader, every night aboard the Admiralty Dream at 9:15 pm