The nice thing about about riding a bicycle about is you have time to smell the road kill.
Up early (5:30) at Frisco motel and off, Jeanne and I went with James to the car rental place at Denver airport. It seems when we packed to drive down here, we still had a bit of room in the sprinter van so put in some extra stuff. Now we have to deal with it.
James was off in a sad farewell and our trip is over. We managed to get Jeanne’s bike into the rental car, mine was already torn apart and in the duffle bag which went on top of Jeanne’s along with other bags of stuff. Jeanne and I wanted breakfast, wifi, and coffee, so off we went in search of the three essentials. We ended up at McDonalds, sitting there just drinking coffee, had pancakes, sausage, eggs, hash browns for 3 1/2 hours. Just enjoying the quiet down time.
Some folks ridicule mcdonalds but I find their coffee good and less than a dollar as opposed to starbucks which is 2-3 dollars. And starbucks only has croissants, scones and such. We wanted breakfast.
Thus we enjoyed just sitting, catching up and resting. When we started the trip I had suggested riding 3-7 days then a rest day. That is enough riding then I find , for me anyway, a rest day of just for a day or even two of not riding the bike is rejuvenating. We had been riding for 12 days. The tetons was our last rest day. Rawlins was the next town and not exactly the most exciting place to just sit around. (Rest days often consist of hiking, touring the area, fixing bikes, or just toodling around.) Joe and I had taken a rest day in Steamboat Springs and we thought of it but decided to carry on to Dillon, Frisco, Breckenridge as James could take the van in for maintenance easily from there. If I did it again I would take a rest day in Steamboat and again 3 days later in Frisco. Live and learn. But we were tired.
Off to a bike shop for a bike box to ship Jeanne’s bike in. Talked with them about tires a bit, explaining our luck with tires. According to Constance, our keeper of the numbers, we had 14 tire replacements (lots of tires falling apart or side wall blowouts).They tended to commiserate with me but I am not sure believed it. They suggested glitter in the fluid. At first I thought they were joking but they continued to say you can get particles in the fluid which will help seal holes. Most of our holes were caused by sharp rocks either on outside or side wall blowouts. Once I stopped a leak by pushing a small pebble into the hole and it sealed. Glitter!
Met our friend Roy and had a delightful visit, talking, catching up and going into Boulder for food and a bit of a hike.
On to Colorado Springs to visit friends of some 40+ years. A delightful visit and seeing the sights. Jeanne has never been here.
But the urge to get out and ride the bike is strong. Has been 3 days now and I can feel the body saying “am I going to be used or shall I just deteriorate?” I firmly believe the human body is not designed for easy, hence it does better with hard work. Sometimes though the mind takes over and lets one relax a bit too much. I feel that now, but perhaps it is just the inertia of doing something every day which makes me feel like doing something. I am sure in a few days I will come up with some excuse to not exercise. What a dilemma! Alas first world problems.
OK I will figure it out and move on to the next trip.
Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.
Left Rawlins into a headwind. Not bad riding just into the headwind which was very tiring. I remembered this section from the previous trip as a very long uphill which most was visible as one big climb. The big rollers of up and down. My memory did not disappoint. Approximately 4500 feet of elevation gain most of it also into a headwind. Probably the most tiring day yet for us.
But at the end of the day the last 5 miles was in the trees. Had been 5 days since we saw a tree. Everyone felt great with that. Warren and Jeanne had found us a great site off the main road, which was busy probably with labor day holiday traffic. And it was noted during the day one of 2 cars which slowed down and gave us a wide berth was a logging truck. Pretty bad when a logging truck is noted to be polite with bicyclists, the other cars not impolite but definitely in a hurry to get somewhere with lots of resulting dust.
But the best was yet to come after we went to bed. I was up about 2 am for nightly duties and the stars were out, lightening going off in the south horizon. Inside tent and a few minutes later pitter patter of rain. I told Jeanne to ignore it as stars were out and it would be short-lived. It was, but 10 minutes later rain hit hard and we buttoned up. The lightening was overhead, then going off incredibly bright right over us, with less than 1/2 second for the incredibly loud thunder to resonate. Next day James and I said we both were thinking of evacuation routes if needed, as we were near the top of hill with big trees sticking up. Quite the show. Nature showing her stuff.
Next morning as we rode off lots of fire trucks were coming down the road although no signs of fire for us. Rode through a section of the road they have preserved called aspen alley, a delightful section of large aspen trees.
Took the alternate route through snake river valley to Columbine where Dave and Constance had a friends near the trail who had invited us to spend the night. Joe and I had ridden the main route over watershed divide with a steep climb and descent. The alternate profile looked relatively level with a steep descent then somewhat flat although it did show Columbine as being about same elevation as last nights camp.
The alternate proved delightful with scenery but by the end of day it proved as tiring as yesterdays. The up just kept going up. Finally made it to Columbine where I promptly ate two ice cream bars and a fanta. Whew. But the cabin was 2 miles off road apparently rough and again very uphill. I rode that part in the sprinter van.
Today my turn to drive into Steamboat Springs. A nice time by myself although one certainly does not get the feeling of the area sitting in a car.
And the trip is coming to an end for Jeanne and I. A bit more than half way down the great divide but as planned we must return to Anchorage for other commitments. Alas life gets in the way of life. It has proven a delightful trip, but as noted very different than when Joe and I did our self supported trip in 2012.
This one has proven luxurious, with gourmet meals breakfast and dinner almost every night. Joe and I had one pot glop meals full of calories and such but after many days it did get old. This trip we have libations, soup, 3-4 course meals, fresh salads, and sitting around after the days activities discussing various whatever, is truly delightful. Everyone has been wonderful, with chores, driving, and help along the way.
But a few more days into Colorado and near Breckenridge and or Dillon we will depart the group and spend some time visiting friends in Denver and colorado Springs, then fly home. Alas things must end but it is a delightful memory. A premier bicycle trip.
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride.
John F Kennedy
What a day! A stupendous breakfast at at the “Heart & Soul” the depart Pinedale while leaving James, Warren, & Constance to do the shopping and catch us later. Jeanne was riding with us until they caught us.
Departed Pinedale on nice highway with s good shoulder. I just started Dave following, just cruising at about 15 mph. Then save commented Jeanne and nancy were with us. Awesome, a four person pace line. We went for nearly twenty miles, just cruising enjoying the ride.
Supposedly gravel came at 30 miles buy it just changed to a perfect dirt road, no washboard.
The trucks caught us at big sandy creek where book lists water available, but totally fenced off. A gate was there but heavy chain and padlock with two no trespassing signs. Not sure what the big deal is but certainly did not feel welcome. And we had water. On the next twenty kilometers of rolling hills contributing through the magnificent sagebrush country. When one drives interstate at just cruising in the automobile one looks out and sees the scenery without feeling it. Here it is stupendous.
And another delightful camp here on the lander cutoff of the Oregon trail. A couple of gals have joined us and are a nice addition. Sammie and Joy from Massachusetts. For carrying some water for them they got us two pies, Apple and blueberry, which we devoured after the soup, salad, potatoes and onions, and barbecue brats. Delightful. Made it to A & M reservoir 3 days from Pinedale. Yesterday from lander creek camp to sweetwater water. Once again thinking of trip with Joe and there were more cows at sweetwater. This time we went bathing in the creek. Feels so good at end of day to just sit in the water and get grime, sweat, dirt, off. Again tonite at reservoir where could actually swim about. Awesome
Thus we made it across the four days of “waterless section”of Wyoming. In a car it would be probably pretty boring with miles of miles of dirt and sagebrush, but on the bike it was awesome and amazing. The afternoons were hot in the low 90’s (mid 30’s c) but the van and truck stopped every 25-30 miles and we got off and sat in shade for a bit, then on peddling , peddling, peddling.
And the stud dumps were there, where the wild horses mark their territory by leaving their mark. The biggest piles of horse shit you have ever seen.
Bikes working good although Constance who is keeping track of numbers says we have changed out nine tires thus far. Me 2, Jeanne 2, James 2, Dave1, plus I cannot remember the rest. All are tubeless or a variety thereof. Yesterday nancy, Jeanne, and J. R. all developed leaks and were spewing fluid out but just keep on peddling and rolling and the sealed without much loss of pressure.
A father son duo riding the great divide on motorcycles, commented to us the commeraderie on the trail. People keep track of each other up and down. 2 notes ago a hiker came through (name of dirt monger) hike the pacific crest trail this spring now going down the continental divide trail ( a slightly different route the the great divide bicycle route. ). And saw him coming into Rawlings today, he is as fast as we are. On his sixth pair of shoes this year.
It is amazing country. The history of south pass which is in the midst of Wyoming is phenomenal. Some of the more interesting history in the development of the western United States. Not only does the Oregon trail go through here, but the California trail, the Mormon trail, the pony express trail, and the Indian have used it for far longer than our memory and history relates.
And the antelope are beautiful. They run as if standing still but move across the country at seemingly high speed.
May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous. leading to the most amazing views. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.
Interesting days. When last entry was made we were sitting beside the road under a tree providing great shade, realizing the highway was nasty with farm equipment, semi trucks carrying barley, and increased traffic from tourists and winnebagos with no shoulder. We just gave up and decided to wait for James and Jeanne to rescue us.
The two vehicles arrived much quicker than expected and we loaded all six of us into the vehicles with bikes attached. It was decided the showers at Tracy and Ian’s would be quicker and more efficient than over Teton pass and into Wilson. Thus a great lunch at the Brskeman Cafe in Victor, a trip to bike shop where I got new bike shoes then on to Tracy and Ian’s for showers.
My shoes were losing the fight for survival. They were ripped, the soles glued on and wearing out. But they were with me for the first great divide, South America, Germany, this trip and numerous trips in between. Maybe 10000 miles in the past 4 years. Hopefully these new shoes will be as good.
Constance, Dave, James, and Nancy moved on over the pass to friends in Wilson. Jeanne and I stayed and waited the arrival of the homeowners. It was great to see them and the kids. Rylan 3 years old and Harper who celebrated her first birthday while we were there.
On arrival home Ian began gathering empty plastic milk jugs and filling with water and consolidating the freezer foods into the one big freezer. Turns out a forest fire had begun about 4 miles away and they were worried about the power connections knocking out power. Evacuations were being discussed for a subdivision closer to the fire and a mile away. And the air was thick with smoke. A small bit of ash fell fell as we were setting up the table outside for dinner.
Tracy very kindly took the next day off and we got to spend the day with her and the kids. Very pleasant!
We drove to Jackson where Jeanne and I were searching for a new tent. The old Walrus 2 person tents zipper, we had been jury rigging for a couple of years, was finally not reacting to our attempts to save it. Time for a new one.
Settled on a 3 person (or as Jeanne would say 2 people and J. R.’s technology. We set up 3 different tents in the store, climbing in and out, debating, discussing various attributes. Years ago we had a tent with two separate entries and separate vestibules which was great. Have been unable to find since, but now again we have one. Yahoo excited and room inside.
Met nancy, Constance, and Dave for lunch and discussion of potential future days. Roads still closed and seems best to just drive to Pinedale, skipping ahead basically 5 days of riding. Going back to warm springs camp and continuing from where we left the trail was proving not an option due to the fire at Jackson lake which blew up and closed the roads. Alas!
Tracy drove us up through the Teton park where the mountains occasionally showed themselves through the smoke. James was up climbing there somewhere. We
Returned over the pass to Victor, to find Ian and the neighbors up on the roof watching the planes circle around the fire 4 miles away dropping retardant. Always a fascinating site. I cleaned and worked on bikes and slept soundly.
This am we returned to Wilson, via Tracy who was going to work, and met out group again. Breakfast then to grocery store for supplies for the long trip from pinedale to Rawlins, a remote section of the great divide. While waiting for the shoppers Dave, James, and I called the pinedale forest office for fire update as the web was not updating very fast. Turns out the road over union pass was just opened today. We could go north instead of south, although not to where we departed trail. We would skip 2 days of riding instead of 5. Whoopee.
Off to the Turpin meadows camp where Joe and I camped four years ago. An ok camp. But when we drove up signs saying absolutely no tent camping, due to beat activity. We all agreed we have seen no signs of bear activity except forest service signs. Officialdom. We just moved up the road about 2 miles to a bush camp which is probably nicer than the campground with Winnebagos.
And Warren and Colleen return from Boulder today. We will have another driver.
Ok writing a few days later (like 3 days). Having internet again which is always a novel idea, especially internet that works at a resonable speed. Always an issue on the divide.
But the story continues: we left Turpin meadows on our first riding days in 3 layover transport days. Within a mile Jeanne’s front tire was spewing whit liquid stan’s fluid all over. The fluid makes the tires tubeless so small leaks and punctures get fixed before you know it. A very nice requirement on the divide ride, especially as we enter cactus areas. But there were puddles and we could not stop it. Finally I think it lost enough pressure and spinning the tire stopped the leak. She had not replaced her spare tube from giving it to a rider several days ago heading north. But nancy had hers, mine are 26″ and would not fit. But no need. Onward and upward toward togwotee pass at 9600feet (about 2900 meters), but then Dave noted a protruding inner tube from his back tire sidewall. This he had a spare tire for and 45 minutes later we were off again. This was our ninth tire change on the trip.
Made the top and a bit of a debate as to route. When Joe and I went 4 years ago we read the map as go one mile from summit then left . We did and climbed back a mile and half up the 6% grade to the left about a hundred yards below pass. My gps said go left, and Jeanne proceeded but the others were not so sure. I speeded off to catch Jeanne which I did in a mile and as we discussed the return the others came along realizing this was the correct way. And it was gorgeous, going the ten miles by brooks lake and where Joe and I had stayed. Again though this time there were no tents allowed due to grizzly activity, of which we saw none except forest service signs all over saying it was so. Proceeding on down the valley I found the route changed and it turned on a forest road up the other side of valley before the union pass road which Joe and I took. We were some of the first bike riders to go through the fire area and it was black.
This new route was very ice except for the climb through warm springs creek area. Some very steep climbs at end of day. We did over 4500 feet (1306 meters) of climbing but the three vehicles found a wonderful camp on warm springs creek. I was way too tired to even go the 30 yards to clean up. Gut was off a bit hence limited the alcohol to one beer to let the carbon dioxide smooth things out which it did.
The next day was a total misinterpretation. The book and map said we had a climb out of camp then it was downhill to union pass. Ugh argh and ugh! You could see the 13% slope rising out of camp which we assumed was the climb. We chugged up it for a mile then road for a mile or so on some nice forest road reaching the union pass road which then roast at a 7-9% grade for 4 more miles. We reached the top all disheartened and tired and cold. We proceeded on down a gentle wash boarded road where the vehicles were waiting. Apparently this was union pass on the side of the mountain, usually they put passes at high points between mountains but this was different. Oh well on we went toward whiskey gulch campground some 35 miles away.dropping a few hundred meters in the process but nothing significant and on a washboard rocky road. We all agreed the descent was as tiring as the ascent.
But whiskey gulch campground was great, on the banks of the Green river.
And Colleen returned to Boulder to work leaving Warren to help us drive. 7 of us and 2 cars. Always interesting but it makes for a luxury trip.
The man who sleeps on the floor never falls out of bed.
Some nice riding.difficult easy hot cold rest in Helena.
Rest day was good nancy and Jeanne went shopping which took much longer than anticipated, 4 hours for Costco and grocery store. James called me at 4:40 to ask if I could pick up his and Nancy’s bikes as repair shop closed at 5. Dave and I arrived at 4:57 just as they were poring the beer to end the day. James had tubeless tires installed and Nancy’s brakes adjusted and new pads. I had also put on a new front pad on hers and the rear was replaced in whitefish. She and nancy tend to ride the brakes going downhill as not used to gravel and steep. Ok.
And a good conversation with Joe to update him and compare rides. He asked if as hot (no), how early we left (8:30 usually), and if bikes holding up. Nice to say hello and compare different trips and remember. Warren had to return to Boulder for some work stuff and Jeanne now driving truck, which seems ok with her. Heat and she does not have the drive to ride like we do. She just wants to have fun. Ok.
Enjoyed watching nighthawks fly overhead as we ate dinner at outside restaurant. Have ever seen them before.
And we were able to leave by 8:40, James and Jeanne having to drive around due to rough road we would travel. We climbed for 7 miles, down 5 then began what, for Joe and I was the worst due to heat, climb 7 miles of 5 to 10 % slope, but temps were a balmy 90 degrees and we survived. Made it to where Joe and I camped by lunch at the little creek. Then on and soon off the little forest service road to a rough 4 wheel drive off-road route for 3 miles. Very rough and walked a very significant portion of it up and down. I told the others Joe’s advice: “keep the rear wheel behind the front wheel”. Not necessarily that easy.
Shortly after lava mountain we met James riding up to us. We still had about 16 miles (25 k) to go but theoretically mostly smooth and downhill. Jeanne was waiting a short while later and they were a bit concerned at our lateness. But all good. Arrived camp about 6 pm exhausted a 47 mile (76kilometer) day with 5300 feet Of climbing (1760meter). We were tired.
And a mile from the end the trail diverged from Joe and mine. Used to parallel the interstate and the six miles of downhill riding on interstate into butte. Now the route although 20 miles farther is delightful with campgrounds all along the route. We stayed at Mormon gulch an old unfunded site, which was delightful. I slept outside for first time on trip to watch the Perseid meteor shower, but unfortunately my eyelids refused to open for most of the night. But stars are always nice to view. I do like looking at old friends in the constellations and discovering old friends.
Then into Butte arriving about 1 pm and the new route ride right through town which is delightful. An old historical mining town. Shortly after sowers and a bit of rest we will walk to the Berkeley put which closed in 1982. Almost two killed meters across and as one book described it an open gaping oozing wound on the earth. Old mines drain into it a toxic conglomeration. Apparently nets are over it to prevent birds from flying into the water, as the do not leave. Ugh.
And a thought on cattle guards. They still scare me. Dozens a day at various speeds and wonder when a rail will be missing, or loose, or a open area. But they are always interesting.
Addendum: discussion of next big town on route. Looks like pinedale wyoming, although will have visits with people in victor Idaho Wilson Wyoming and a rest day somewhere. But Internet will be questionable.
Well preparing for another ride. Again heading south, this time back to the Great Divide, which I did in 2011 and 2012. As a recap here is the synopsis of those rides. Both rides were self supported, meaning we carried our own stuff rather than someone carrying it for you.
2011 – Wanted to do the whole ride but timing was not right. So I rode solo from Banff to my sisters house in Columbia Falls, Montana 8 days 250 miles (400km) of wilderness and back country. Great ride with a few adventures.
2012 – My friend Joe, wife Jeanne, and I started the entire ride again in Banff, where I had started the previous year, although on day two Jeanne took a fall and fractured her ankle which required surgery and Joe and I skipped the Canadian wilderness part which I had done the year before. After making sure Jeanne was good, Joe and I took off. The trip lasted a total of 71 days including 10 rest days (4 in Columbia Falls with Jeanne and my sister) and 2700 miles (4000 kilometers) It was amazing and I love self supported rides as one can stop when one wants to, and go when one wants. But it means carrying all your gear and on the divide the food is the best you can cook supplied by gas station grocery stores along the way. Awesome. But I learned as I have over and over, although it never seems to sink in, one rides (or does anything) one day at a time. Thinking of the entire trip is too daunting ,so just go day by day. After we initiated that attitude it was a great trip.
Those trips were such a meaning to my life I ended up writing a book about it before I discovered this blog thing. It was in an electronic book self published via Smashwords (Memories of the Great Divide) and on Apple iTunes. Whoopee, if I remember right 2 people read it. But has served Joe and I well to remind us of what who how when and where. Memories are such skittish things.
But currently in the throws of getting ready for another ride. I was taught many years ago one should be ready to go anywhere on 5 minutes notice, and I have tried. And I could, but I have found as one gets older it takes longer and perhaps there is more to do, although I do not believe that is it, although the former seems true. As our friend Jim Howard told me when I was pondering the earlier Great Divide rides (“Do it now, as every year it just gets harder”) It seems it is not a good time, the house needs work, the garden needs tending, ski jumps need work, next week my fingernails might need clipping, or whatever excuse comes up. And the usual one of “oh, I could never do that” (without even trying). And too easily the opportunity passes.
So the opportunity arose and our friend Nancy Brady and husband James wanted to do the Great Divide and hence the invite is there. It may not happen again. When the timing is there, one has to grasp at what one can. Life can pass by. I suppose it is like having a child, the timing is never right, but you just have to begin and it seems to take care of itself. I would rather have memories than things, although the accumulation of stuff in our house might testify otherwise.
And so the lists are being created of things to take, and things to leave behind, but have access to if needed. I had been working at the ski jumps (my latest passion) but have had to stop in order to get this stuff done. I can still go watch the kids jump and who knows maybe take a jump or two, before departure next week.
As with a packing a pack, time seems similar. You will fill up the space available. The trick is figuring out what is important. Every item needs to be tested and checked. Bike riding, I have discovered, is a lot more fun if the bike is not getting thrown around by weight, scattered about. Several trips have involved checking things down to the tens of grams. Last trip on the divide we carried 21 pounds (9.5 kg) which was bags stove, fuel, sleeping bag, tent, extra clothes plus the bike,food and water. I felt we were comfortable and lacked in nothing. Someone called it the luxury of not having anything.
This time we have support, hence a vehicle to carry the stuff. Sweet! Still, must be ready to depart on own if the need arises. Contingencies
I must remember this is a different trip. Different people, different stuff, different weather, different time of year (three weeks earlier). I will try and let new stories be created and not relive the old ones.