Turkey

Posted on October 3, 2023October 4, 2023 by J. R. Patee

Time is an illusion. Lunchtime, doubly so.

Douglas Adams

Heading home, sitting on plane from Antalya to Istanbul, then transfer to SAW airport on other side of Istanbul, a distance of maybe 60 kilometer. Now 8:40 am, flight to Doha departs 8:00 so lots of time. Traveling always interesting, but I do remember studying biology that migration is a dangerous time. Ok do not lose passport!

Past days on boat were great, relaxing. Returning to Kas from Greece Ned and I had heard about great haircuts so decided to give it a try. An hour and 15 minutes later we were not only better looking but totally relaxed and could hear better. Haircut, massage and ear cleaning all for 500 lira total (about $17 each)

The days were spent swimming, anchoring in beautiful quiet hidden coves, hiking during day often meeting the boat in a new cove or town.

Last day on boat we went to more Roman ruins, at Myra and a delightful kayak up a meandering stream with loggerhead sea turtles swimming in the fresh water. A difficult hike to 5th century BC temple to Apollo, and later 2nd century AD church.

Arrived in Finike, home port of the Cavalari, and we boarded bus for 2 hour trip to Antalya. A Roman city of Perge, a walk in old town, an excellent museum which timelines history of man in this area starting about 2 million years ago. Interesting to see the development of pots and pottery, and the development of religion, and worship of various sorts. Another hot day.

And so another trip ends and homeward bound. Lots to look forward to at home. But still reflecting on this journey.

Turkey is an amazing place. So much history and potential. I knew before leaving there would be a massive amount of history and there is. My poor brain is very full trying to digest and categorize.

Someone else has already done this with Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hellenistic, Lycian, Roman, Byzantine, crusades, on and on. As someone pointed out history is just one thing after another. But Turkey is really at the crossroads. To the south is the Mediterranean and Africa. To the north is the Black Sea and Ukraine and Russia. To the northeast lies the historically allied countries of what I call the stans- Turkmenistan, kurgistan,, Georgia, Afghanistan, etc and Iran. Southeast lies Syria and Iraq.

Over the centuries humanity has travelled through Turkey to get between Western Europe and the far East. Each area has its culture and “tribe”, usually, if I am correct in thinking that “one’s own home “ culture” is the best. Hence Turkey has been “run over” by various cultures through history. Back and forth expanding contracting. Each leaving an impression and artifacts.

Humans are gregarious and like to be with other humans, but they tend to not like those different, and will fight them to overcome them. Fighting between tribes, cultures, countries seems a human activity. We have not developed an ability to learn without trying to change.

Some of those cultures were quite impressive ie the Roman’s. A culture so rich it developed great works of art and technology, advancing the human species. But it was built on the backs of slaves, which to me negates the progress.

One of the things I wanted to learn in coming here was not just the history, but where is it going? Oh yeah predicting the future ! So here is my take which with $10.00 will buy you a cup of coffee. ($5.00 if you leave out my ideas)

Turkey is an advanced country taking care of its people. It is not immune to problems throughout the world, but is maintaining itself, but trying to accept others. Migration is a huge problem, dare I say much worse than what the United States considers its problem, Syria, Russia are the big migrants, but numerous others. They try and integrate, with education, health, etc. but it is overwhelming. It is a problem bigger than my brain can handle and I am rambling

Religion in Turkey is Islam, but it varies by what one calls religious. I believe officially it is about 95% Islamic, but when one talks with various folks 40% may be more accurate, depending how one measures religious practice. I find the important point is it is secular, in that there is no state religion and the state cannot preach it. Schools , even private schools cannot teach religion. What a concept, to be allowed to think for yourself. Religion is a huge topic unto itself, and I intend to research it further, perhaps even attempting to read the Bible again. (I confess I have tried but get lost easily)

But I am afraid it is only the first day of travel. We have covered 2 continents, gone through 4 securities, 1 passport control, and have not left Turkey. Ok I am tired

We never saw what in the United States we would call homeless, and in asking never really got an answer as to why. Basically health care is covered, and homelessness as we know it is illegal. If someone is homeless in inclement weather they are housed in a hotel or safe place. But I never found a real answer.

Clean well, transport is good and easy, people friendly although English not always, although we are in Turkey.

Aegean Sea

Posted on September 27, 2023September 27, 2023 by J. R. Patee

Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice

Anton Chekhov

Well we boarded the Cavurali and it took a while to get our sea legs, and not in a balance sort of way, but adapt and change to boat life which is different, charging electronics only when generator running or the air con, or sleep in cabin or on deck, closer quarters etc. and the first night was very hot. Sweat rolled off both jeanne and I all night. Rough!and the boats in area, well are over the top. Cavurali is 65 feet and one of the tiniest around. “Fancy people”

But next day much better. We had gone out from Goche, and anchored where able to just jump off and swim. Sweet, very sweet!the first full day went on hike about 8 kilometer which was delightful although again very hot. Our new guide Enver, who also owns and arranges the tour we are on, took us to some “nomads living in hills, who served us sage tea and bread with delicious olive oil. Fabulous.

Return to boat and did some great swimming again. I tried swimming into a limestone cave , but gave up she. It got dark and I could see no more. Swimming in the dark dark was not to my liking and I returned to the open water with light.

Breakfast fruit, olives, cheeses, bread, eggs

Interior sidewalk of monastery Gemiler Adasi. Interior to crate a breezeway in heat.

More ruins, later in day again hiking over the hills with boat driving around to new spot where we would hike in. After hiking around an abandoned village over the top and down to new cove, where we were met by the day tripping boats which are party boats with loud music. We quickly left for a serene quiet anchorage and again enjoyed swimming, kayaking.

Today off early and again dropped at a cove where we had breakfast, then hiked up a pass in the heat. A van picked us up and off to Roman ruins of Patara, which also is near the beach and swimming. Turns out st. Nicholas was born on that beach. How Santa Claus was born there in the year 325 ad, and ended up at the North Pole I do not know.

The city of Patara apparently was visited by the apostles of Jesus Luke and Paul. Ok! It had its water supply from 20 kilometer away. Is and amazing aqueduct.

Roman aqueduct built approximately 100bc

Another home visit this time with friends of Envar. Again absolutely amazing food.

Stuffed eggplant and stuffed pepper with turkish ravioli

Tonite we are in the harbor of Kas, between an Italian yacht I estimate 175 feet long, with crew of five, and a I estimate 120 foot yacht with Palau flag, registered in Delaware, but is russian. Then on opposite side is a Turkish military ship the Kas, which Charles and I went onboard and got a tour. Interesting

Cappadocia

Posted on September 22, 2023September 23, 2023 by J. R. Patee

Human history becomes more and more a race between education and catastrophe. H.G. Wells

I knew nothing about this area of turkey, even it’s location. I thought it was in Europe, which makes no sense as the European portion of turkey is relatively small. It was a 75 minute flight in an airbus 320 to get here so maybe 350 – 400 miles from Istanbul. Our comments on arrival were it looks like eastern Colorado or New Mexico. Dry, hilly, with sandstone like formation.

Well once again one’s expectations can be very wrong. It is an old volcanic area with collapsed calderas. Much of the “rock” is volcanic tuff, and relatively soft with over laid volcanic lava. It can make some very interesting formations. Here they are like hoodoos of the southwest United States. Columns with hats on top, but here the often look more like mushrooms.

But being populated for thousands of years, it turns out the tuff can be dug out and caves are made. 2000 years before Christ, people were building cities for protection underground. Some of these cities held as many as 20000 people. I equate it to a human termite nest. We visited one today which is now a museum. Fascinating. People, could stay below ground for as long as 6 months well protected living off of grapes and grains stored from last years harvest, protected quite well from invaders. Just a big wheel rolled in front of entrance tunnel and then invaders could be picked off one by one, as only one at a time fits in tunnel. Amazing architecture and design.

Amazing when one thinks of “primitive society’s” which were actually quite complex. Ventilation, water, food, cooking, waste, all basically taken care of. They used these cities until about 400 a.d.

The Roman empire extended this far. The Roman empire was built on slavery, and the rulers were considered near equal with the gods. Everywhere they conquered, they allowed local religions to continue and thrive except Christianity. Jesus preached against owning people, and that went against the Roman empire, hence the persecutions. The persecutions continued, and forced many monks to leave and go into hiding. Well they often ended up here in Capadocia. They would go into the little valleys where the rocks could be easily dug out into caves.

Hence capadocia is full of man made caves. The hotels are caves. Nearly all are “cave hotels”. Checking into our hotel, one is guided down tunnels winding various directions. It has taken me 3 days to learn how to get to our room without going “oops, wrong way”.

Hotel room the linen keeps “dust” from falling on bed.

The monks built not only places to live but churches. Over the centuries since last really occupied by the “criminal” monks about 400 a.d.,the rocks have eroded and the fronts have fallen in or off and one sees the open rooms.

Some even had paintings this one dates back about 1700 years

And then on our little tour is the food. Seems all meals start with appetizers and not just a little tidbit, but maybe a dozen or so sauces, dolmas, breads, fruits, cheeses, olives,

Home meal appetizers for lunch. Main meal yet to arrive.

Then the desserts, baklava, ice cream or some very tasty thing. Often followed by tea.

Carpets are a big thing here as to cover the rock floor. We went to a carpet place where they make and teach carpets. Oh my what a process. Not just machine made things but hand made often taking months to make a single carpet. And size makes no difference to price. We saw some worth many thousands (and more) which were 30 and 40 centimeters in size. In the end we did buy one and in the purchase I was able to obtain the passcode to make it fly. When it is delivered in 8-10 weeks we shall see if it works.

Handmade carpets can change colors, tones

Our guide Halil is amazing. A masters degree in tourism and guiding, as well as a student of history and professor of history at the university. His knowledge level and ability to convey it is astonishing. He has made arrangements for a home meal with his wife’s aunt. And several of the beyond superb restaurants are his friends.

It is a tourist area, though and lots of people. The town we are staying in has a population of 2000 with 400 hotels,. Hot air ballooning is quite popular here with about 150 balloons a day going up 250 days a year with the baskets holding up to 24 people. I was the lone hold out of 6 in our group who did not go up. Why, I can’t answer that, but I stayed back and took pictures from the hotel balcony.

Tonite we went to a performance of the whirling dervishes. They are a Muslim religious order but are not really in existence any more. They lived as a monastery which is really a religious school. Turkey is a secular country despite a huge percentage of Muslims, and Turkey does not allow any educational system either public or private to teach religion. It was designed this way to prevent fanaticism.

Whirling dervishes. They would do this for 5 minutes at a time. Program lasted an hour

But what was amazing was tonite talking with the hotel night staff. A refugee from Afghanistan. He left in 2016, as his family was ostracized as relatives had worked for the United States. His English was superb, with Jeanne and I estimating his accent was southwest United States. He just learned different accents.

And as usual I must say in this writing this is what I remember. It may or may not be true but it is as I absorbed it. Hopefully it is the truth. We have been given an incredible amount of knowledge. I try desperately to learn and remember but?

Once again I learn there are different ways of doing things, not better not worse, just different.

Gomba

Posted on February 24, 2023February 25, 2023 by J. R. Patee

Life is about not knowing, having to change, taking the moment and making he best of it.

Gilda Radner

Sitting in Kigoma airport awaiting flight back to Dar Es Salaam, then flight to Arusha. Wi-Fi has been almost nonexistent and finding it actually quite freeing. But one must eventually rejoin the world.

Kigoma international airport departure lounge

Flew into Kigoma 4 days ago (I think). Airport quite interesting as health check (I believe for Ebola and hiv consisted of taking temperature (but not looking at the reading) and hand wash. Baggage trolley pulled by hand and individually loaded to small baggage claim.

Hussein , our guide, met us took us to lunch at place on beach. Food was rice and some forgotten sauce, but the spice was awesome taste. ( the last time we had spice).

Then on to the two boats for hour ride to Gombe national park. This is where Jane Goodall did her work and displayed in National Geographic in 1961, by her photographer husband. Again tent camping, no escort required to walk at night, but most definitely lock the zipper doors with provided locks, as the baboons have figured out the zippers and love to go in and remove items to somewhere outside.

The baboons frequented camp and were fun to watch. When camp staff did laundry (by hand) the baboons would pull it off the drying line and either lay on the sheets and roll around seemingly to play in it. One baboon sat on Dave and Cindy’s tent beneath the metal roof escaping the rain. When Dave poked a stick at tent roof other baboons came in thinking this was great fun.

Swimming in the lake was great. Apparently the longest lake in world after lake bakal in Russia. It is 660 km long (400 miles ) but where we are one can see across to democratic republic of Congo and Burundi. Famous for that and it’s fish which include many cichlids and is a source of many aquarium fish. Dave and I snorkeled about the dock (which is mostly underwater, except for handrails), amazed at the number of species. Although not as colorful , almost more interesting than the reef last week. And fresh water which was quite refreshing, as temperatures high and high humidity.

Next day Hussein crew fix breakfast and after waiting for final rain shower, off to look at chimpanzees. They have built amazing trails and the chimps use them. There are numerous researchers and Hussein kept in contact with two groups of trackers who know where the chimps are at. After a strenuous uphill climb he said just around corner. When within 10 meters one must wear a mask to prevent disease transmission to chimps. (It is not the least bit required anywhere in Tanzania for humans)

Rounded the corner and there they were, on the trail, in nests up in trees, cavorting about the trees making squirrels at home look like pedestrians versus a formula 1 car in the trees. Hang by one arm using the other to just pick fruit. Youngsters fluttering all over chasing each other, picking on siblings, flying from limb to limb occasionally crashing down when a limb broke, then scrambling back up.

We had been taught if a male approaches to hug a tree to show submission, and if around chimps get off the trail as it is the chimps trail. Thus we stood there trying desperately to get photos and view their shenanigans. Then some descended and were about us, one baby came up to Dave and began chewing on his pack strap. oh my! We had heard the stories of their occasional aggression, and being omnivores, have been known to steal and eat human babies.

Chimpanzee

Dave Blanchett video chimps playing pester your siblings

Our allotted one hour of close proximiy viewing time quickly went by. (I timed it at 90 minutes) and we continued our climb up the ridge to “Jane’s peak” where Jane Goodall could look out over the valley to see where the chimps were. We descended a somewhat smaller trail to the waterfall. This trail gave Jeanne grief as slippery and with her new shoulder does not want to fall down or reinjure the shoulder. I got to hold her hand on way to the falls.

At the falls I walked into the falls totally soaking my clothes, but it felt so good and I knew would dry somewhat quickly. The jungle surrounded us and I kept wondering about “Tarzan” swinging through the trees vine to vine. Fascinating jungle, different than Panama or Bolivia jungle, but tropical jungle. Growth on growth on growth. Totally fascinating! One talks about alder bashing at home. That would be easy compared to attempting cross country without a trail here.

Back to base and an afternoon of relaxing. Power is on only from 7:30 to9:30 pm for charging phone, cameras, batteries, etc. and only one plug in tent, thus judicious planning is required and a headlamp.

Food was as Cindy described typical Tanzania. Always fish and rice but sometimes French fries, a meat sauce, peas, beans. Nothing exciting! Our group would gather at the “party barn” (Jeanne’s and my tent porch) for a pre dinner before dark get together. We were one of two tour groups, the other a couple from Germany who had been told credit cards could be used. (Unfortunately since no electricity available credit cards unusable. ). I gave the Germans 100,000 shillings (about$50.00) as they had no cash for tipping. (They transferred payment to me via PayPal).

Second day and Jeanne opted out of todays trail. It was another strenuous climb this time more straight up by with steps in trail, although maybe a ladder a more appropriate term. Sweat was pouring from us. Then Hussein says just around corner, on go the masks and another hour of viewing. This time the chimps were more relaxing laying about making an occasional nest (tales 3-5 minutes of breaking and bending limbs). All the chimps are known to the researchers and we learned ages and histories. Gimle came down to a limb and laid out just relaxing occasionally crossing and uncrossing a leg or arm, just 4 meters from me. After maybe 10 minutes the alpha male began a call and all arose and began movement elsewhere. Gimle arose from his “lounge chair” and walked down the trunk right next to me, totally unbothered. (I have learned from the news media no one or thing much cares about my existence)

Third day and departure day. Hussein took us to north end of park and village where he grew up and lives when not guiding. (Mwongongo) let walked the village wondering if we were the ones on display. They had been preparing a traditional dance for us and it was amazing. Drums and women doing traditional dances which tell somewhat of a story. (Harvest of crops or fish, or visitors arriving from Congo or Burundi ). Fascinating phenomenal and many of the village came to see. Was quite the event.

Dancers and drums (note metal percussion rhythm is a broken’ propeller)

Return via boat to Kigoma and all excited for potential good hotel with Wi-Fi, aircon, and most a variety of food. But we had been warned by Cindy to not expect much. Arrival and to David Livingston museum. The guide took a liking to me as same age, but as near end of museum tour he reminded me since we were brothers to not forget a much appreciated tip. He stated he would wait for me at end of tour. Cindy gave me $5.00 US and I learned the art of passing money in a handshake. Cindy has handled all finances and tipping on this trip.

Traditional Dance

Traditional Tanzanian meal at high end restaurant?

On to some more incredible traditional dancing. Incredible. Then a delightful hotel with some Wi-Fi, air con and showers although still no hot water (not really needed) excited about dinner and Hussein took us to a supposed high end Tanzanian restaurant. Alas in our estimation it did not meet our expectations. Fish rice, a meat fish and pea sauce. The same. Dory and Di opted for ice cream and French fries from a street vendor. Actually my dinner was good. Costing 12,000 shillings (about $12.00) A great sleep and now we have arrived at Dar es Salaam, a 4 hour wait for flight to Arusha which we flew over about an hour half ago. No direct flights.

Thus today we departed in Far western Tanzania at 9 am for Dar es salaam in far eastern part. Departed Dar for Zanzibar farthest east where we were last week. Arrived here at Arusha at 5 in middle of country. Does not seem to have direct flights. Alas. Now three days of wind down in this high end hotel.

Zanzibar

Posted on February 20, 2023February 24, 2023 by J. R. Patee

To die for a religion is easier than to live it absolutely.

Jorge Louis Borges

After a delightfully relaxing 3 days at the beach, we headed to town. In this case the island is Zanzibar and stone town, established in the 1500’s, taken over by Arabs. Most famous as the official eastern port for the slave trade, finally abolished in 1876 it served Europe and Asia. Ghana on the west coast served north and South America.

The first night out we went out to eat at the night market. As Cindy describes it , 4 parts entertainment and 1 part food. And I might add delicious food. Reminded me of pikes market in Seattle, but not so sedate, very active. Pikes market on steroids. I got so many hugs from the cooks and hand shakes, and was well taken care of. I finally settled on lobster and prawns with garlic chipati, all barbecued exquisite. The cook made sure I had a seat to eat at. Great fun, but one must have energy for such activity and it is hot. (Upper 30’s(low 90’s) with humidity)

Next day began with walking tour of stone town. With markets, vendors, narrow streets, intricate doors ( each tells a story of inhabitants and history)

We walked through the meat markets fish, beef chicken. A bit smelly but delightful,with fresh fruits and spices. I did learn there are 19 essential spices of which 18 are grown on Zanzibar. (The exception is saffron).

Then the slave market, oh my humanity near its worst. We went into the room where they weeded out the weak. A closed room maybe 4 meters by 4 (13 feet). No light and no ventilation of which 50 men in chains were placed. No food or water and at the end of 3 days those left alive were sent to the whipping post. The amount you cried out determined somewhat where you went.

Great museum (this was last display describing slavery yet going on in the world )

That afternoon we drove to a spice farm. 10 hectares and they grow numerous spices there. Afraid I was very hot and my brain absorbed minimal, but fascinating. Ginger, cloves, pepper, numerous fruits, turmeric, coriander, etc. at the end of walkabout stall set up for buying. And a demo of coconut harvest. Amazing way to climb a tree. Wraps a cord between ankles and I suppose that makes the feet hold the tree, although our demo person was a total showman removing the strap and cavorting free. When finished they treat us to fresh coconut(milk and meat), watermelon (oh so good), papaya, and of course bananas. (Not cavendish). We received crowns, and ties from banana leaves. The kids came around and are kids. We had a good time.

Coconut harvester. (They can only work between age 14 and 24 then age out. Bones do not heal as well after that)

Flew to Dar es Salaam, the biggest city of 4 million where 5 people departed for home. There are now 8 of us including Daude going to Gombe to look at chimpanzees, in Gombe stream national park. Daude has never been there so Cindy is treating him to a new experience.

Daude and J. R. (One good looking one ??)

Ngonongoro crater

Posted on February 9, 2023February 9, 2023 by J. R. Patee

Most people rush after pleasure so fast they rush right past it.

Søren Kierkegard

Quite a day. This crater is listed as a wonder of the world. Apparently 25000 animals live within its bounds. Left early at just before 7 and ip to crater rim, which was quite cloudy, but I was thorough enjoying the jungle with tall trees as be thick undergrowth. Rim is about 2250 meters ((7500 feet) and crater just over 1500 meters(5000). A plain without trees and size of crater is 960 square kilometer (360 sw miles)

It is a nature preserve as and very well controlled. One cannot get out of car except at designated spots for any reason. We were warned our drivers can be ticketed even for emergency bathroom stop. Makes sense as these are wild animals right at car. Many photos taken with just phone camera from window. Keep in mind our vehicles you can stand up in. And two of the animals seen today are in the top ten list of dangerous animals. (Hippopotamus and Cape buffalo, sorry alaska, bears do not come close. Folks commented on the amount of exercise and calories burned showing on our fitbits and exercise recorders. Mine showed I walked 8000 steps and 7 km.

Other animals seen were rhino, elephants, hyenas, jackals, lions, hare, Thompson and grants gazelles, elan, water buck, warthogs, baboons, monkeys, and those are the ones I remember. Then there are the birds oh my. Vultures, ibis, Flamingo, hawks, stilts, storks, herons, starlings, on and on. 17 new species for me today on top of 72 in past days. Both Simon and douse are excellent birders, and incredibly patient. You can ask them the name of that bird when you know you have already asked twenty times on same bird, and they as answer each time as if were the first. As Doug says “I may be old, but I am slow”

Thompson gazelle (although maybe grants)

White headed vulture? On fresh Wildebeast carcass

And thus tonight we are on crater rim at 7400 feet and supposedly cold. Maybe low 30’s ( 70’s Fahrenheit) tomorrow head to oldapai Borge and history of humans then on to Serengeti for next three days. We shall see what is to come

This is Thursday it must be Picton

Posted on January 17, 2019 by J. R. Patee

“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life – and travel – leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks – on your body or on your heart – are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt”

Anthony Bourdain

Continuing on our whirlwind tour we made our way into the town center of Christchurch, to see what makes it a city where people want to live. It lies on the Canterbury plains and generally I have a problem with flat, again my bias comes out. We had heard it was and is having a hard time rebuilding after the devastating earthquakes of 2010 & 2011.

We arrived and found a beautiful park next to the Avon river with easy parking, although it took a bit to figure out how to pay via the computerized meter. Soon though I was showing the locals.

We began walking and came across what was a boarded up church hoping to be rebuilt. Apparently it suffered major damage and was built in the late 1800’s. We found the earthquake museum and headed there, again leery of tourist attractions.

This museum was great not only explaining the stories and their earthquake but why it was so bad. Again my prejudice showed and I was thinking anchorage just had a 7.0 earthquake 30 November) which is what theirs was. Christchurch earthquake was in November of 2010. It shook for 45 seconds with some damage and some injuries. But they congratulated themselves and felt ok, but the aftershocks continued. In March 2011 a 6.0 aftershock hit and numerous buildings collapsed resulting in 135 people dying and thousands injured.

Christchurch earthquake damage 2010-2011

the museum continued with great explanations not only of plate tectonics but the process of liquifaction. Christchurch is built on unstable soils, as is anchorage, and that led to a collapse of numerous buildings weakened unknowingly in first big quake.

Since then thousands of people are working on how to mitigate damages. It is an ongoing process, not only with building codes, but soil and geology work. We had heard some of the damages areas were condemned and people had to move out, but then real estate developers came in and said it was better now and charged exorbitant prices for the old land. The museum did not mention this, but it did cover how work is ongoing on mitigating the soil problems.

As per usual I may have some of the facts misconstrued but I tried to remember and learn.

Then on to city center a block away where the “world buskers festival” was taking places.

Christchurch city center damaged church background and lots of construction all over

great food trucks, great street entertainment, and time to move on.

Half way between Christchurch and Picton, where we catch the ferry Friday morning, is a peninsula Kaikoura with a town. Seemed perfect and what a surprise. Great beach incredible views and a very tourist town, but not obnoxious. Stayed at. Holiday 10 as the other camper parks had really bad reviews. We have found holiday 10’s ok but definite McDonald’s like in that you know what you are getting each time generally. This one was not as crowded and felt good.

This Thursday morning went for a hike out on the point and wonderful to just see the ocean. Departing found the world famous Kaikoura BBQ and opted for the blue cod dinner and chowder although the crayfish looked great(lobster)

And so we arrived picton completing our circumnavigation of the South Island. Time is way too short.

Beginnings of the east side

Posted on January 15, 2019 by J. R. Patee

Paradise is not where you go but how you feel for one moment of your life.

Anonymous

alas, we are again feeling the pinch of time. Six weeks seemed like a long time, but now discussions cover what to miss or skip. New Zealand seems to be like Alaska; the longer you stay the longer the list of things to do grows longer. Thus far, would have been nice to spend more time at Cape Reinga, way up north, we skipped doubtful sound, and are going to skip Mt cook national park.

But on the good side, still time and just because we are skipping things does not mean we are not doing stuff.

Arrived Dunedin where a friend we had not seen in 5-6 years had gotten a job as an engineer. And Zak & Natasha were to meet us again here, as Jacob had brought some things from Alaska for them, replacing some of the items stolen earlier with their van breakin.

Arrived and discovered a royal albatross colony. Drove a delightful over the top tiny narrow road, overlooking ocean and found the colony. First sight is of the hundreds of red legged sea gulls.

Greeting committee

Greeting committee

Signed up for a tour, which again proved awesome. Sam, our guide was passionate about his work, and giving us information. One of the first things was the red legged sea gull is threatened as the krill they eat is being forced deeper than the birds can go, due to climate change and warming oceans.

Albatross nests over Otago peninsula. Day 65 of 70 sitting

Then on to the albatrosses where we saw several nesting. Approximately day 65 of 70 days incubating. These are huge birds weighing at about 8 kilos with a wing span over 3 meters. When not spending their year on land raising a chick they cruise the southern ocean circling the globe never stepping on land for a year and for new birds 5-6 years; just cruising the winds. But again threatened, the krill, squid and food sources they eat puts out a chemical called DMS (short for some chemical name) albatrosses are hunters by smell, and when this chemical emits a plume the birds key in on it. Unfortunately plastic uses DMS and after a month of degradation also emits a chemical plume. The birds eat the plastic and eventually die.

One birds stomach content 52 items of plastic

After the birds Jeanne and I walked the Otago university campus which was delightful. At appointed time met our friends and had a wonderful meal. Met Zak & Natasha in am to get a bag to take home for them. (Aw the joys of traveling, trying to take the exact right thing) we were in a camper park and they were in a “freedom camp”. Dunedin had turned the carpark used during the day into a camper park at night.

Then off we went for our longest day of driving yet 350 kilometers to Christchurch. 5 1/2 hours.

we had heard about the southern alps train going from Greymouth to Christchurch. We went through Greymouth on the west coast almost two weeks ago, but discovered you could only go to Christchurch then return. To stop in Arthur’s pass would require an overnight. From Christchurch one can go to Arthur’s pass, spend 6 hours, then return Christchurch all in one day.

Somewhere along the way we read it is one of the top 5 train rides in the world. Ok I was skeptical and immediately began comparing to Alaska railroad and the scenery in Alaska. Again I was wrong. Within a few minutes of departure I realized this was a modern train, not high speed but we were cruising at 100 kph. Takes a 4 hours to cross the country here 250 kilometer. (Ok it is the narrowest point) Through the mountains, some 25 tunnels, bridges, and an elevation gain of a thousand meters. We were impressed. Cars were comfortable, with huge windows, and an outside viewing platform car.

Six hours at Arthur’s pass and lots of hiking trails. We managed to exhaust ourselves trying to begin to cover them. With the walk to train station maybenanother 15 k day.

Another delightful walk through the incredible silver beech forest hoping to see the mountain parrot (Kea) without success. back on the train to return Christ church after a remarkable day. Do not try and compare to other places, rides or experiences. This is its own incredible experience.

Reflections on cross country

Posted on December 15, 2018 by J. R. Patee

I feel I need to reflect on the past 2 months of travel across north america. (Well, almost two months, and almost cross country as never actually saw Atlantic Ocean)

When Jeanne and I started talking about the trip and we decided to do it, logistics discussions start in real quick. It was obvious to fly to the east coast with bikes and do the trip, renting car from Albany to visit friends, then bike as we did to Washington D. C., but J. R. thought why not enjoy the area between. Skipping over all that country just seems wasteful. (Never mind reality) I checked on train which would be fun but several days and expensive. Why not drive? Jeanne immediately said no – she is not into road trips as much as I am. But after she thought about it why not. We could ride bikes a bit every day, and carry all our stuff ( more than we would ever carry on bike), so she said yes.

Well did not work out exactly as planned as more cold, rainy, and we forgot it gets dark early this time of year and camping would be 12 hour nights. We are spoiled in Alaska with camping – no dark.

Now that the trip is almost over my thought is “It is easier to think about driving cross country than actually driving cross country”. Duh!!!!

But it has been awesome. Got to see places one would normally just fly over and not realize it is home and happiness to a lot of people. It is good to see that. These places makes the world tick.

Biking was fun, although flat, but that presented different challenges. Mud, rain, carrying minimal amount. It worked. Nice to see how other areas deal with bicycles.

and an important lesson, what you pay for a motel has nothing to do with quality. You do not always get what you pay for. Our worst was the most expensive and best was one of the cheapest. And often mom & pop motels often do not replace mattresses as often as they should.

On to the next trip

Buffalo to Lockport Day 1

Posted on September 21, 2018September 21, 2018 by J. R. Patee

“Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.”

Anthony Boirdain

Successful departure. Got the car to auto storage but had to talk with owner for about an hour, retirement, cars, travels, life in general. Then same with Uber driver, although retirement was not on her list. She had lived all her life in Buffalo and wants to travel but ?.??.

I made it back to Jeanne looking sort of like a homeless camp with stuff scattered about the park. She was happily carrying on a conversation with one of local tour guides. Buffalo has and is reinvigorating itself with additions and upgrades to waterfront. Lots of concerts, activities and new buildings where people want to live. I packed as Jeanne went off in search of a bathroom.

The trail is great winding along the waterfront until turns off the Niagara River and then alongside the Erie Canal. A bit of roads but lightly traveled. Reminded me of Anchorage coastal trail except no moose. (That I saw)

Rest stop along the way for brake repair. Seems sitting on back of car for 16 days does not help.

We had hoped to get to the town of Medina about 46 miles along but we had difficulty finding if their was lodging the. Finally found a hotel but all rooms on 3rd floor and no elevator. That was enough of excuse to stay in Lockport which would make 33 miles. But I confess we were tired. Jeanne was trying to figure out why, while stating her bike was heavy. Even a partially loaded bike is different than an empty one. I assured her that as my friend Joe taught me on the great divide “3 days from now we will be in shape”

Delightful motel and outstanding dinner. Asleep by 9

The world is an amazing place.