wow friends.  What an amazing thing.  

Alfred had asked us to visit his home and perhaps a rest day. We gladly accepted the invitation, and rode the 70 kilometers from Mäder, Austria to Vogt, by way of Bregenz at the east end of Bodensee (Lake Constance).  The city was crowded but still a bike path along the lake although lots of activity which does not allow rapid transit.  A flea market, and the opera set of Turandot by Puccini.  What an amazing set and backdrop by and in the water of the lake.  

   
 Then on and we are continueing to be amazed at the delightful countryside.  Being Sunday people are out enjoying life, biking, going to the beach and enjoying the sun.  Vogt is at an altitude of 725 meters whereas the Bodensee is at 400 so a bit of a climb but it is all hill country of up and down.  Did a total of 525 meters and again we managed to get tired.  Must have something to do with no riding or exercise all summer. 

   
 Bridget, Alfred’s wife was waiting fo us and immediately began taking care of us having some Radlers ready and cakes.  She took our laundry and washed it cleaning my jersey like it has never been done, returning all neatly folded. Wow!

That evening we watched each of our movies we had made of our time in South America.  Fascinating to see the differences of slide shows.   Different viewpoints of the same thing, although Alfred did get to start from Quito, thus had photos of the time in Ecuador and northern Peru.

Monday, Alfred, Jeanne and I head to the train station about 15 minutes drive.  2 hours later we are in Munich, to see the city.  As with any city lots to do and not enough time, so we convince Alfred we enjoy just walking about. But first we head to the HofBrau House where Oktoberfest started. Now it is a huge festival the end of September and first of October which people throughout the world celebrate beer.  The restaurant is now a tourist area but delightful. 

   

 
Then off to the German museum which appeared from the outside to be a very good museum and it would have enough nice to see but alas time to return to the train. 

 

  

  

  

  

 
The trains continue to amaze me.  3-6 minutes to change and not to worry, even having to go under or over the tracks.  
 

 
On our return again Bridgit had a wondrous delicious meal of soup, bred and cakes.  Somehow we figured out I like sweets.  Hmmm.  But we ended up staying up late into the night, conversing, mostly about the adventure we had in South America.  Every day was not so incredibly difficult, but when done day after day after day, not only did the physical aspects add up but the mental wearing down.   Some survived it easier than others and some thrived.  For Alfred and I we concluded we thoroughly enjoyed the trip and given all the time in the world would gladly repeat it.  But there are so many other things.  And one cannot repeat the same trip as time,  weather, and people would be different.  And Bridgit and Jeanne state they have a closer understanding of what happened along the way.  They have heard the stories but not in combination with another rider who experienced the same thing.  Jeanne had unfortunately had to go to bed a bit earlier than we, but still states she has a much better understanding, after being with the two of us.  A delightful evening, bringing the memories back alive.  

  
But we must continue.  As delightful and wonderful as the visit was we are on a mission, thus yesterday we return to the bikes. Alfred loaded the GPX tracks from his computer of the Rhein trail onto my GPS and copied his movie for me, the we three rode to Freidrichshafen where we visited the zeppelin museum.  Back along the Bodensee.  A great place describing and showing the history of those incredible airships, including the disaster of the Hindenburg in 1937 at Lakehurst New Jersey.  There is a full size mockup of the Hindenburg passenger area.  Certainly not like air travel of today.  Spacious.

Bridgit had made us a superb lunch and we sat along the waterfront, dreading the departure.  We did not want to leave.  But alas it was time.

  
And Jeanne and I were just he two of us. Other than Andermattthis was first time on the trail without someone to guide us and explain the marvels along the way.  We planned to get out of town hoping to find cheaper lodging away from town.  Alas it was not to be.  Every place was booked up with no availability.  At first we passed by the obviously more fancy places but then began to check them too.  It is a delightful lake and beach area, and the Eurobike conference is curing in Freidrichshafen this week. It is the largest bike conference in Europe and we are told every room is booked for 20-30 kilometers. We were beginning to think we might end up wrapping up in what clothes we have along the beach.  But a hotel across  the bike trail had one rom left, but 125 euro per person.  Not the most expensive place I or we have stayed but when we opened the door – wow.  And dinner and breakfast included.  Thus we sat on balcony overlooking the Bodensee and sunset.  A wondrous 5 course meal of salads, fish lamb, desert and finished with another sit on the balcony watching the moon over the lake. 

 

“A man’s growth is seen in the successive choirs of his friends.

—RALPH WALDO EMERSON, “Circles”

A most amazing incredible 3 days. Andermatt, Oberallppass, Disentis, where Alfred met us, and has cycled with us the past two days guiding us, telling stories, listening to stories. 

Alfred who lives in Germany about 30 kilometers from Lake Constance (Bodensee) was on the Andes trail beginning in Quito. He placed second in the race and is obviously a superb athlete, but to me, more important is a good person.  

But back to the beginning in Andermatt.  Awoke and again rear tire flat.  Front tire was ok and I had changed it the evening before so was a bit worried.  Had the same kind of rim tape as rear tire but not worn.  I changed it preemptively.  Difficulty putting the tire on, and twice punctured the tube while attempting to get tire on.  Finally on and seemed good but the pump was getting tiring as small and basically only for emergency and it was not up to the task of fully inflating tire.  Thus to the bike store for a new pump and more spare tubes.  

At the bike shop the gal (Carmen) offered to look at rear tire just to double check my work.  Two hours later a new tire, tubes, patch kits (2), and a pump.  And tire installed with great difficulty, she punctured two tubes installing on tire which old one she found a hole although was not the cause of the flats.  Took two of us to get the new tire on and neither of us understood why.  Both old and new tires were 700c and sized 622  but old tire was 29″ and new one 28″. But 700c and 622 on both old and new, which should be the more accurate numbers of size and fitting.. What is what neither of us new.  Finally done and bill paid, time to get on road.  Carmen came out to bid us farewell and we both realized tire on backwards.  Ok I will live with it.   

 Jeanne was very nervousness about the climb.  I as usual do not really understand as what I see is Avery good cyclist although timid.  As usual I think physical activity is mostly mental.  Both Carmen and I reassured her just go slow and stop as necessary, but when one feels nervousness someone telling you that you are better than you feel does not always help.  But we started up the numerous switchbacks basically 5 kilometers of 8% slope then 3-4% for 6 kilometers. A total of 600 meters elevation gain.  And the Swiss countryside was awesome. Steep slopes seemingly mowed neatly, a cog railway with tourists aboard taking our pictures sweatin away.  The road near the top had a tunnel built to protect it from avalanches.  Again saw the couple from Budapest, Hungary and we all celebrated at the top with a little lunch.  They are on 4th year of honeymoon, riding recumbents.  They have have cycled all over the world now.  Discussed how much and what to carry.  She said you have to take what makes you comfortable and that varies between people.  

    

 
 

 
 

  Then the descent : the first 5 kilometer was a 12% grade with numerous switchbacks, then 20 k of just downhill.  We were tired as did not leave until after noon.  Picked the first place which was a wonderful hostel and I called Alfred who was riding up from Illanti after taking train from his home just north of  Lake Constance. He arrived 10 minutes later and we three talked after a hearty hug on greeting.  We sat and talked out front drinking beer, the out back for dinner and more beer. A delightful evening.
Up the next day making our own breakfast in the hostel. Then off  riding.  Took a while to find trail but when we did great.  Had debated riding the road but then discovered Rhein bike path was on other side of valley.  It was a great trail, but it went up and down.  

    In the end we climbed 674 meters, whereas yesterday only 607.  But overall dropped 300 meters in elevation.  Even some single track, although mostly gravel.  End of day more pavement by the “Grand Canyon of the Rhein” gorgeous! Totally pooped out at end of day not making it to intended destination of Chur.  This we gave up but the only guest house in town was up a steep hill.  60 kilometers and we were tired.  Guess we are paying the price of not riding much this summer.  And guest house was not overly impressive so got the bus for 10 k ride into Chur and music festival going on.

Today absolutely incredible.  We started up high on oberalpass where the Rhein starts as a small spring, but today it became a small river.  After Chur it is well contained inside dams and bike paths run down both sides.

 

  We crossed over into Lichstenstein and road its 20 kilometer length.  Lichstenstein is one of the smallest countries in the world.  Then into Austria Stopping for a coffee but order these incredible pasta meals with radler beers.  We then decideded enough for one day, but had to ride on 5o find a place to stay.  First town with two places full, and roads on to Mäden and a delightful place.  Showered and sat out on porch drinking beer and having desert and wiener schnitzel of some sort.  Also excellently, then some great conversation reliving the Andes trail. 85 kilometers today and at midnight still up.  

  
Also to note we got to Austria and prices back to somewhat normal. Meals in Switzerland were 30-35 each whereas in Austria we pay 8-12 for similar.  Beer in Switzerland was 8-10 and Austria 3.5.  Everyone has told us Switzerland is almost three times as expensive. (Those prices are for Swiss francs and euros, which are basically 1:1 in value.). No wonder people do not go to Switzerland.  

Left the Köln area, with Britta driving us to the Bonn railway station, a 20 minute drive.  We had put our gear (mostly clothes into the panniers but have never really rode with them on the bikes.  This will be a first for Jeanne.  I have had several trips with panniers and do not like the way the extra weight can throw you around.  But unless you pay someone to carry your stuff this is the only way I know of, although The Great Divide trip was nice as lightweight and centered.  

But an hour or two after I had fitted the bikes, put on Jeanne’s peddles, attached computers etc., we were sitting inside and a sudden whoosh as “my” bikes rear tire developed a hole in the tube.  Aargghhhh.  Ok change it, and notice Jeanne’s front tire is low after just pumping it up an hour before.  Arrgghhhh!  Ok Jeanne’s was the valve, and easily fixed by just tightening the valve which came loose when pumping the tire.  But repaired mine with a patch, pumped it up and good to go.  Could find nothing in the tire to make a cause of the hole.  

A delightful barbecue dinner with Britta and the boys, final packing and begin to load the two bikes, and panniers into the car.  My rear tire is flat, and I do a quick repair again. Off to the train station arriving a bit over an early so as not to keep Britta up all night.  

At the airport we begin working about getting onto the right train, and as we only have minutes to find the right car for our bikes, load them and then find our car.  I start talking with a gal from Köln who spoke excellent English and she explained how you could find where each car would stop.  

Every once in a while a train would come roaring through, usually a cargo train.  They do not seem to slow down or if they do, only to maybe 60-70 mph.. No wonder you do not even consider jumping over the tracks.  Standing  on the platform 3 feet from the tracks and a train comes flying by, wow. Jeanne’s hair in this humidity is wild and the wind for the train made it fly.

But we decided on a proper spot where our car (#176) would be and waited, but alas it will be 15 minutes late, then 20 then 25 minutes late. We have 6 hours to Basel, Switzerland where we have 11 minutes to change trains.  Oh boy a new worry, but not much can be done now.  

The train finally arrives and we have missed our car by only a car length. Climb on pulling the bikes up the steps, panniers throwing weight the wrong way. And we see why reservations for the bikes are needed.  It is a special car and maybe 50 bikes hanging from hangers on the walls.  A conductor happens by and gets us squared away on the last two  hangers, numbers 24 and 25, and checks bike tickets to reassure us, and I notice we are moving and have left the station so now to wander up 3 cars to our seats.  Trains are so smooth one barely can tell you are moving.  Seems there are not seats as I am used to but compartments.  We are lost on the dark train but again a conductor is sitting in his office and helps us out.  Turns out our seats are in a compartment of 6 bunks.  Someone else had been lost and was in one of our bottom bunks, but after the conductor got us put away he took care of him.  Wow a bed, how civilized.  Fell asleep almost immediately until my alarm went off at 6 am. 5 delightful hours of sleep.

Then back to the bikes where several others are gathered for their bikes.  My rear tire is flat.  But we arrived at the station at scheduled time of 6:47 and off we go to find the correct track and train, taking the elevator one at a time from tack 10 to track 3.  We make it for the 7:04 departure, this time it is an interegional train not requiring reservations. There are specific cars though for bikes, but we find it, Jeanne and I argueing  over if it is the right train as nothing says it is going to Göschenen, but the track number is correct.  Jeanne wants to get off rather than find ourselves somewhere wrong, but I prevail and we stay on trusting the paperwork. We hang the bikes and I remove the wheel again, determined to  find the cause, as this one was a brand new tube.  Repair the tube and find a hole in the rim tape wrapping the wheel to protect the tube from sharp edges of the spokes and rim.  I take the plastic  from a bag of nuts we have and cover the area repairing the tube, and pumping with our small pump, totally breaking sweat.  It is not a good morning as grumpy and pissy.

I realize jet lag is still affecting me.  I just feel off.  Letting the worries get to me, little sleep at the wrong time, etc. etc.  

 

 We ride up into the hills and all looks like a Swiss postcard, people are off and on the train at each stop, finally after leaving Lucerne, Göshenen shows up on one of the stops.  This time we have 6 minutes to change but our next ride is less than 15 minutes. I figure we could bike it if train is missed.  This time it is a regional train and only three cars. We lift the bikes onto the freight car.  Then as the train begins I wonder “what was I thinking we could ride this”.  It is a cog railway taking us up a narrow canyon through tunnels and looking out on the highway cut into the mountain.  Jeanne described it as a developed Yosemite valley.  Incredibly beautiful, and raining, but we reach our final destination of Andermatt at our scheduled time of 10:04.  Another wasted worry. 

    

 
Andermatt is obviously a ski town with the ski runs coming apparently right into town.  It has narrow cobblestone streets
and is quite charming.
  We walk to our hotel with the bike GPS directions, a distance of 435 meters, pushing the bikes as in street clothes and my rear tire although still inflated because of my morning pumping was lacking, is low, and not because of flat.  

This is the only reservation we have made which is non refundable and we felt first night should have something. Numerous sources had said would be difficult, thus we reserved a cheaper hotel online at 155€.  I think we are the only ones here.  Oh well as soon as we could get into room we both fell asleep barely talking as still grumpy.  This is proving to be my worst day of jet lag yet.  

But Jeanne woke me about 1:30 and we walked to bike store to check for rim tape, another spare tube and a cycle computer for Jeanne as hers lost somewhere during the night.  Nice to walk about and now only misting, with clouds above us.  Temperature of 6 C (40s f) and rather pleasant although very humid and chilly.  Back for more clothes.  Lunch and bike repair also changing the front rim tape as same thin tape on it, so preemptive.  

Texted Günter our arrival and our trials.  He responded “all part of the adventure”

We have been assured only the first few switchbacks of tomorrow’s climb is steep then it gradually climbs the 800 meters over 11 kilometers then we reach the headwaters of the Rhein river.  

Another great two days of visiting and learning.  Tod and Britta met us at Siegburg stop to get us to their house about 10 kilometers away.  Stopped at ticket station as had to get train tickets to Andermatt a minimum of 24 hours ahead of time and with bicycles cannot do online. There was a great schedule leaving at 8am getting into Andermatt at 5 pm but alas no room for bicycles, which require a reservation also, as bicycle space is limited.  Have to take the regional as the high speed (ICE) does not take bikes.  Thus we are leaving at 6 minutes after midnight arriving Basel, Switzerland at 6:47, changing trains to Göschenen and depart at 7:03 arriving 10:47, changing again to depart at 10:53, arriving at Andermatt at 11:06.  So we are earlier and can explore Andermatt, or if we miss the last train, just ride our bikes there. And the ticket was 50€ cheaper than the day train, although it is at night.   

 As noted earlier, I think, we met Tod and Britta in Anchorage many years ago.  He works as a FedEx pilot and is based out of Anchorage, they and their two boys Hatcher and Everet took a four year assignment here in Germany.  They return to Anchorage next summer, so if we wanted someone to visit this was the year.  We met via biking and they are loaning us their very sweet bikes for this trip, hence our travels north to here then return south to begin the ride.  

But our visit here has been brief Todd showing us the bikes and general greetings then he departed via train for Basel and work for some days before returning home.  

There home is great and I am enjoying the energy efficiency of German homes.  The windows seem good 3-4 panes thick and open easily and efficiently.  Both houses we have seen have ceiling windows and open for ventilation without leaking rain.  And it has rained past two days. The toilets are water saving sometimes so much one must always flush as there is not enough water to dilute the urine and it quickly begins to smell.  Some toilets you push to start the push to stop the flow the task is complete.  None of this 4-6 liters to flush 200 mil liters.  And like Alaska no air conditioning.  Although I guess it was hot earlier this summer.  But good ventilation if needed.  

Then yesterday the boys left about 7 riding bikes to school and Jeanne, Britta, and I took train into Köln, a trip of 1o minutes for the 15 kilometers.  The train station is next to the cathedral which is just as impressive as when we were here 10 years ago.  The cathedral is huge being approximately 80 meters in height and covers a large space.  As I have said before I am amazed people spend so much time and money building these artifacts of religion, but then Günter says that is or was the culture.  This cathedral took nearly two hundred years to build.  

  

And walking about Köln I learned there are little Star of David’s on the sidewalks to mark where someone was removed during WWII.  We found three marking their removal in August of 1943 and deaths on August 7 of 1943.  Sobering.

But the point of our trip was to visit Jeanne’s cousins daughter Rachel.  She Took German in high school near St. Louis and came to Germany for one year to complete her German education.  During that year she fell in love with Germany and fell in love with her futures husband.  She now has two children here in Köln.  Her mother MaryAnn is visiting her from the states so it was a treat to visit.  We met for brunch at a great little restaurant spending nearly three hours there.  

  
Hopefully we will see them again on our way north as we pass Köln enroute to Rotterdam and the ocean, and again at the end of the trip.  

A delightful walk back to train station passin by the corner where the first perfumes were made in the 1700’s.  I learned when one is walking in a crowd with an umbrella one must not only watch oneself but match the height of the umbrella to others as they cannot all fit at the same level.  Little things one learns through life.  

  Today a walk back from town after Britta dropped us off at grocery story where we perused the various German foods, and got some snacks for the night train.  Back at the house and got the bikes ready having one of the tires spring a leak an hour after pumping it up, and another with a slow leak at the valve.  Both easily fixed.  

A nap as still finding ourselves jet lagged.  Every day we think that is it, but we seem to be exhausted more easily than usual.  Has been 5 days now.  

But tomorrow we begin although theoretically no riding except practice.  Jeanne worried about the pass, a climb of 800 meters.  You can read her blog for comparison at Riding the Rhine with Jeanne.  Perhaps an interesting contrast to my writing.  
Off we go 

As he said he would Günter met us at the Frankfurt airport, as we left immigration control.  What a treat.  I had met Günter when he joined the Andes trail trip last year, in Bariloche Argentina riding to the finish at Ushuaia.  He had been a pleasure to ride with there and has been a most amazing host here for the past two days.  

It was Günter who I paired with for the final time trial of “the race” on the Andes trail.  It was a couples race with the last person of the couple crossing the finish line receiving the time for both people.  We took last place going only 36kph for 50 kilometer, except for two couples who were very distinctly not racing even more than us.  Günter and I yammered the entire hour with a strong tailwind.

He lives just outside the city of Aschaffenburg about 50 kilometers from the Frankfurt airport.  We drove to his place with a stop at the castle built sometime around 1650 for the Bishop at the time with a walk about town talking and exploring.  Back to his house his wife Marion was waiting.  

Jeanne and I were tired having been up for approximately 19 hours with minimal sleep on the packed flight.  Our body clocks said it was 3 am, with the local time at 1 pm.  A bit of a disconnect.  But we decided the best was try and immediately adapt to local time which meant a great bike ride, although all agreed we should make no solid decisions.

Off we went for a 26 kilometer ride about the area along seemingly endless bike trails, cars stopping to give us the right of way.  Approximately 1/2 way we stopped at a Biergarten for a couple of Radlers. Radlers are bikers beer which are 1/2 beer (Hefeweizen) and half lemonade.  Not so much alcohol and a bit of energy for the riding.  And each came with a hot pretzel.  Normally I do not like pretzels as they are hard cracker tasting things, but these were basically a fresh bread and delicious.  

Then back to dinner with Günter and Marion.  He barbecued some delicious Argentina beef with some bratwurst and shishkebab of corn, zucchini and tomato.  Awesome meal.  But alas the time was catching up with Jeanne and myself; Jeanne dropped first and excused herself while Günter and I drank a bit of after dinner brandy.  Then I dropped out.  

Yesterday (Saturday, the 15August) the four of us took off for Seligenstadt across the river Main(pronounced mine) where we indulged in some champagne from a street vendor in the town square.  It was busy there was a holiday in the state of Bavaria where Günter lives but across the river is the state of Hesse and it was a normal busy Saturday.  A delightful 50 kilometer ride mostly along the Main river with barges going by and people out enjoying the sunshine, with on boats or biking or walking.  

  Then arrangements for the train.  We downloaded the German train app and plugged in where we want to go which for now was to visit Todd and Britta near Köln.  Amazing to read we have to change trains three times with only 3-9 minutes to change trains.  Back in the good old USA it would be 3-9 hours.  Günter says if a 10 minute delay, it is a major problem.  Wow. But could not get tickets for Siegburg to Andermatt Switzerland as the bikes take a special ticket and unable to obtain on the Internet.  

A delightful dinner out and another great sleep.  Now currently writing this while on the train cruising along at 248kph.  Amazing and all the connections are working without a problem.  

  It has been a most enjoyable two days.  Günter and Marion were awesome hosts not only feeding and housing us, but showing us the sights around Aschaffenburg and teaching how to get trains and negotiate the German culture.