Only boring people get bored

Maralyn Crosetto

A semi sudden invitation came up to join a group floating the Yukon River from Whitehorse, in Yukon Territory, to carmacks, Yukon. It is a distance of about 176 miles ( 283 km) including lake labarge. Apparently normal float time is 8-9 days with usually 2 days for the length of the lake.

The people inviting us were of our age and we had not known them, but thought it would be good. For Jeanne it would complete the Yukon River from Whitehorse as far down as Eagle, Alaska. For me I have done all except the area from Dawson, Yukon to where the 40 mile river joins the Yukon. Below Eagle the floatable river becomes a much larger logistical challenge with multiple day shuttles, and is not common except in more expeditionary travels. Timing was not necessarily good for us with visitors, and busy summer activities, but when an offer pops up, one cannot always wait for a better time.

Hence we left for the 700mile (1125km) drive to Whitehorse over 2 days. Overnight at Fast Eddy’s motel and restaurant in Tok,Alaska, before crossing border, without incident, in Beaver Creek, Yukon.

We had had a logistical meeting in Anchorage, and my first meeting Greg, Shannon, and John. In Whitehorse we had a delightful evening dinner, where we further got to know one another. We all clicked and seemed to get along. John had been a judge in the state of Alaska, prior to retiring 7years ago, since then spending time traveling, playing tennis and a yearly kayak trip. Greg, an MD, and wife Shannon, a nurse, work extensively in Tanzania, Africa, raising several children through educational support, and a charity network.

Wednesday morning we delivered our supplies and boats to the boat launch in central Whitehorse, and arranged parking for 2 cars. I assembled our collapsible 2 person kayak. (A incredibly designed Feathercraft, made in Vancouver, Canada) and somehow we managed to load our massive amount of supplies into the boats. Jeanne and I have not been on a kayak trip in several years, and although the memory is there, we somehow forgot how little you actually need.

Finally departed about 2 pm in heavily laden crammed boats, floating along and into the wilderness. Yes! The first day we made 22 miles (35 km) to a wondrous camp just above lake labarge. Both Jeanne and I required some assistance cramming ourselves into the cockpits, and attaching spray skirts, rather embarrassing, but get over it.

It took us 4 days to cross the lake, partially because slow, and the 4th day wind came up forcing a halt to progress, until the waves diminished to a more manageable level for our skill level. Camps were proving harder to find than expected due to higher water levels of past weeks rains. I had downloaded the topo maps to the phone, which had potential campsites marked. We had obtained a river guide but it was very rudimentary. Past trips we just camped on river bars and beaches, all disappeared in higher water levels.

Unfortunately my phone decided to go dark on day 5. I could text via the inreach GPS,but slow and cumbersome. I did text my friend Zak in anchorage, if he could research how to restart. He came through with a reset solution which would not erase the data. Over the next days I probably reset the phone 50 times each time restarting as usual then going dark. On the last day it suddenly worked gain. I had worried about photos taken before the dark, but utilized Jeanne’s phone for photos. Technology is not dependable.

Overall the trip was awesome. We did it in 9 days, the river moving at a rapid clip, often flowing at 7-9 mph (11-14 kph). Not many animals, although did see a moose one night swim across the 400 meters, then turn upstream and swim upstream against the current for another 400 meters. Squirrels, numerous birds. We saw an occasional motor boat of locals but for the most part remote and alone. A spectacular river float. One is alone.

Arrived above carmacks and due to current at the carmacks takeout, exited the river. A small houseboat had anchored for a stop on their float from Whitehorse to wherever the boat ended (Dawson, Eagle, Circle, haul road bridge, or the Bering sea)