Yukon River

Only boring people get bored

Maralyn Crosetto

A semi sudden invitation came up to join a group floating the Yukon River from Whitehorse, in Yukon Territory, to carmacks, Yukon. It is a distance of about 176 miles ( 283 km) including lake labarge. Apparently normal float time is 8-9 days with usually 2 days for the length of the lake.

The people inviting us were of our age and we had not known them, but thought it would be good. For Jeanne it would complete the Yukon River from Whitehorse as far down as Eagle, Alaska. For me I have done all except the area from Dawson, Yukon to where the 40 mile river joins the Yukon. Below Eagle the floatable river becomes a much larger logistical challenge with multiple day shuttles, and is not common except in more expeditionary travels. Timing was not necessarily good for us with visitors, and busy summer activities, but when an offer pops up, one cannot always wait for a better time.

Hence we left for the 700mile (1125km) drive to Whitehorse over 2 days. Overnight at Fast Eddy’s motel and restaurant in Tok,Alaska, before crossing border, without incident, in Beaver Creek, Yukon.

We had had a logistical meeting in Anchorage, and my first meeting Greg, Shannon, and John. In Whitehorse we had a delightful evening dinner, where we further got to know one another. We all clicked and seemed to get along. John had been a judge in the state of Alaska, prior to retiring 7years ago, since then spending time traveling, playing tennis and a yearly kayak trip. Greg, an MD, and wife Shannon, a nurse, work extensively in Tanzania, Africa, raising several children through educational support, and a charity network.

Wednesday morning we delivered our supplies and boats to the boat launch in central Whitehorse, and arranged parking for 2 cars. I assembled our collapsible 2 person kayak. (A incredibly designed Feathercraft, made in Vancouver, Canada) and somehow we managed to load our massive amount of supplies into the boats. Jeanne and I have not been on a kayak trip in several years, and although the memory is there, we somehow forgot how little you actually need.

White horse departure

Finally departed about 2 pm in heavily laden crammed boats, floating along and into the wilderness. Yes! The first day we made 22 miles (35 km) to a wondrous camp just above lake labarge. Both Jeanne and I required some assistance cramming ourselves into the cockpits, and attaching spray skirts, rather embarrassing, but get over it.

It took us 4 days to cross the lake, partially because slow, and the 4th day wind came up forcing a halt to progress, until the waves diminished to a more manageable level for our skill level. Camps were proving harder to find than expected due to higher water levels of past weeks rains. I had downloaded the topo maps to the phone, which had potential campsites marked. We had obtained a river guide but it was very rudimentary. Past trips we just camped on river bars and beaches, all disappeared in higher water levels.

Morning packing
Canadian remote campsite outhouse
Morning camp
Lake labarge camp
Dragonfly
Campsite at old village of Hootalinqua, confluence of Yukon and Teslin rivers
Big Salmon River camp abandoned village site
Yukon River float
Morning launch

Unfortunately my phone decided to go dark on day 5. I could text via the inreach GPS,but slow and cumbersome. I did text my friend Zak in anchorage, if he could research how to restart. He came through with a reset solution which would not erase the data. Over the next days I probably reset the phone 50 times each time restarting as usual then going dark. On the last day it suddenly worked gain. I had worried about photos taken before the dark, but utilized Jeanne’s phone for photos. Technology is not dependable.

Overall the trip was awesome. We did it in 9 days, the river moving at a rapid clip, often flowing at 7-9 mph (11-14 kph). Not many animals, although did see a moose one night swim across the 400 meters, then turn upstream and swim upstream against the current for another 400 meters. Squirrels, numerous birds. We saw an occasional motor boat of locals but for the most part remote and alone. A spectacular river float. One is alone.

Arrived above carmacks and due to current at the carmacks takeout, exited the river. A small houseboat had anchored for a stop on their float from Whitehorse to wherever the boat ended (Dawson, Eagle, Circle, haul road bridge, or the Bering sea)

Alaska

“Man did not weave the web of life; he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web he does to himself.”

Chief Seattle

My sister has not been to visit us since about 2021, although we have seen each other, numerous times during that time . This year they decided to come visit in Alaska. Yeah! Exciting! Hence we feel the need to show them Alaska, although they have been here several times.

For the first couple days just sit back and relax, just enjoying the company of each other. Somehow over time I have lost the urge to constantly be going going going. I gave up lists of things I want to do because the list never gets shorter. Each item checked off seems to add a minimum of two more items. And as the Spanish proverb says “there is nothing better than doing nothing, then nap after”. Fear of missing out (FOMO) does not apply. Just enjoy the company.

But that does last only so long, one must move about and explore. Hence we are in McCarthy Alaska. Drove here yesterday, a 310 mile (500 k) drive. 8 hours, with the last 60 miles (100 k) gravel. Always a question when last graded as the washboard can be extreme and 10 mph max. They had just graded the road a week or two ago which also means freshly cut gravel, which one piece managed to pierce our tire. Crazy that modern cars have either no spare or a “donut” tire. Ours has a donut but our history with either is tenuous.

Ok what a day. Took the shuttle van the 5 miles ( 8 k) up to town of Kennicott . This is the area of kennicot mine and was one of the largest copper mines in the world and the where the start of the Kennicott company began. Currently the area is within the Wrangell St Elias National Park and the mine area administered by the park service.

Jeanne first visited McCarthy in 1982 the first year she was here. I first visited probably about 1989. We have had a few visits since, always memorable. My friend Zak and I did an awesome hike in the backcountry in about 2018 or 2019 (goat trail). Jeanne and I coming here during covid time. Both trips involved spectacular back country mountain flying. The Wrangell mountains not only have some of the biggest mountains in North America but are spectacular and remote.

In December of 1983 Jeanne was working triage in the emergency room at night in Anchorage. A fellow came in with belly pain , having hitchhiked the 300 miles from McCarthy in December. It was a quiet night so she spent hours talking with him about life in remote alaska. 3 months later he was 1 of 6 people who survived a mass shooting. Just happenstance they had dropped their mail with a friend to send on the mail plane coming in on the once a week mail delivery. Someone else was also waiting and shot 8 people, of which only 2 survived, as they were to meet the weekly mail plane. 5 other people were gone on various trips and did not meet the mail plane. That was the entire winter population of McCarthy in 1983.

Ok back to today and we were talking with a seasonal park employee and Jeanne asked about a fellow she once knew who had survived the shootings. Turns out he owns one of 2 restaurants here. Tonite we had dinner with him. Small world. We have travelled in different worlds and circles, but been within convergences numerous times. He knows our friend Geoff in Utqiagvik having dog sledded across the top of North America. One never knows where one’s path will lie.

But back to today and the visit to Kennicott. Did a delightful hike to an overview of the root glacier. Then signed up for a Tour of the mill. The park service has gone in and partially restored the 100 year old 14 story wood building where the mine brought the ore from the hills above. Jeanne and I had in years past, before the park service, gone into the delapidated and falling apart building exploring, which was fascinating but we had no explanations of the processes of refining the ore for transport via train the 167 miles to Cordova on the coast where it was transported to Tacoma Washington for final refining.

MaJohnson hotel

The mine was discovered in basically 1901 and a railroad took 6 years to build. The land rights, as they were, were made and the mine began operation in 1911. In 1938 the sudden decision was made to close and with literally within hours the last train left and Kennicott became a ghost town. It was again “discovered” in the 1950’s and in about 1988 National Geographic did a story about the town.

Kennicott rail depot with copper refining mill behind
Down glacier view from Kennicott
Below the refining mill
Root glacier terminus
Lupine with water drop

We learned much of the history of the mine today from our tour guide. The park service has gone into the mill and created a “safe” walkway down the 14 story refining mill and our guide gave a wondrous dissertation of the refining process and history.

Refinery mill internals

After the dinner and during the walkabout town (5 minutes max end to end) we discovered our tire had been repaired (for a minor fortune) but recommend it serve as only an emergency for the emergency donut tire. We are in a bind. More to come!

Ok onward no reception, or very spotty. Yesterday we arose early expecting to take a long time on the drive to Glenallen. Somehow we managed to get a friend to go to our house and pull out the stored 4 stored winter tires, get them to the only shuttle bus from Anchorage to McCarthy, by 7:45 am. They would drop the tires off at the only tire auto shop in Glenallen, who we had not yet been able to contact. After 9 am we were able to contact them once we had cell service.

Again, cell service is very dicey. Turns out ATT does not cover the area of McCarthy hence we were using Verizon of my sister’s mobile phone. Big business kindergartners cannot learn to share. Irritating! and very little reception along the road back to Chitina.

We shuttled and hiked our bags to where car parked. (Road stops about a kilometer before town due to Kennicott River. Formerly, there was a hand tram for crossing but now a pedestrian bridge. Arrived at car and as the tire repair fellow said tire was repaired, but appeared even with repair to have a bit of a bubble. It looked as an emergency tire to the emergency donut tire. Had placed the donut on the rear in case of a blow out, and we began, the 59 miles (99k) of gravel road to chitina and the 70 miles( 115k) to Glenallen and the tire repair place. We did it in 6 hours due to did not want to speed on the donut tire which is rated for a max of 50 miles (80 k). But we did it.

Arrived at 2 pm and proceeded to wait until they could fit us in. Tires arrived from Anchorage a few minutes after we did, so all good. At 5 pm tires repaired, threw the bad tire away (after spending $325 to repair it to emergency standard). The tire shop said we could leave the 3 good tires out front to be picked up by friends, Zak and Natasha, who would be returning from a trip to Valdez in a few days. Placing three tires in our car would have cramped our driving quarters. The mechanic said the bad tire had an excellent repair but would not have lasted. We were lucky.

On to Valdez via beautiful Thompson pass. I believe someone spilled the green pigment and all the plants were in glory.

Arrive Valdez at 8. Zak and Natasha met us after a day of climbing and utilized the shower in our motel room, dinner, sleep and up early to catch ferry to Whittier at 5:30 am.

Departing Valdez
Port wells in prince william sound
Whittier alaska