When in the wilds, we must not carry our problems with us or the joy is lost. Sigurd Olson

Finally the day has arrived and we start biking. One plans, thinks, imagines what it will be, then the day arrives and reality comes to fruition.

Crossed back into America through long line on Rainbow bridge over the Niagara River just below the falls. Lucky I knew by heart the license of our car for customs agent. They always scare me with so much power. Somehow I have never been able to think of them as good guys.

But walked the American side of falls which is also incredibly impressive. I felt for both sides, given the number of visitors they have developed it nicely. One can view it quite freely, but the opportunities to spend money are there, but not totally in your face. The falls are impressive just because of the volume of water , 100,000 cfs we did spend $1.25 each and took the elevator to bottom which is always interesting looking up at falls

Delightful to walk about, having walked about 10 miles (16 kilometers) in past two days. Then on into Buffalo and found a car storage place in a big warehouse.

Drove downtown to check out start of the ride, then plugged in the address to the night motel, seeing the bar where the original buffalo wings came about. (Chicken wings in barbecues sauce) or so they say.

Unfortunately I put in the street address correctly but thought the motel was in Buffalo, but it was back in Town of Niagara Falls 20 miles back, but we had a good drive about town amongst the neighborhoods. Funny being back in developments after two weeks of country.

finally arrived at motel and began sorting gear for biking. Excitement. What to take? What will we actually need? What to leave behind? This is a credit card trip, so no camping, just bike gear and evening attire.

Thus it is this morning. Getting dressed, will drive Jeanne to the start, drop her, the bikes, and gear, then I drive to warehouse dropping the car and Uber it back to the start. Yahoo. Finally I get to ride my bicycle.

Don’t listen to others listen to yourself 

 

A pleasant weekend driving to Denali National Park and camping, with some delightful bike rides.  Such a treat to get on the bike, despite it being cold and windy.  the first day out we opted to ride up Sable pass an 8% grade, which developed a head wind to boot.  Had thought of progressing on to Polychrome pass but somehow seemed daunting for our group that day.

But a pleasant evening sitting around the campfire musing.

Sunday another ride back towards park entrance and I was not feeling it as have had a cold flu past week and just under the weather so I saw them off and returned to the tent and warm sleeping bag.

 

 

Monday (today) jeanne and I departed early returning to Anchorage as departure tomorrow to ride the Erie Canal, allegheny Trail, and the C & O towpath.  All eastern United States, New York, Pennsylvania, and to Washington D. C.

And we are driving there, departing tomorrow the 4th September hoping to drive across Canada riding a bit every day, and enjoying the country.

Here we go again

 

 

 

 

Insanity in individuals is something rare – but in groups, parties, nations and epochs it is the rule.  Friedrich Nietzsche

Sometimes and more often is the case the best of all is your own little world.  Yesterday a group of us decided on a bike ride about the awesome trails of Anchorage.   Which ride to make of many dozens of choices, all of which we have done uncountable times.  Something different.  How about a brew pub ride?

Anchorage is noted for its plethora of brew pubs popping up about town.  I have never tried counting the numbers of different brew pubs, but we visited 5 yesterday and skipped over several more.

Began as usual from home riding the tour of Anchorage trail to meet friends at start of Campbell Creek trail and proceed that until bailing off the trail to ride the 2 blocks to Cynosure brewing.  I had told Jeanne in the beginning I was not sure I could drink all those beers coming up.  But she, being smarter than me, said one does not get one 16 ounce beer (325ML), but a sampler of the variety they offer.  Usually a sampler is 5-6 tasters of the maybe a dozen offered.  My memory does not go for 5 or 6 different tastes, as I can’t seem to remember each and require a larger quantity to instill my taste buds with the memory.

Ok one beer down and I realize I need food for the absortive qualities it offers.  Brewpubs like to make beer not food hence often do not serve food, but have rallied to have food trucks outside.  Cynosure did not have a food truck but double shovel was 3 blocks away.

Double shovel is a cider place and I went straight for the Filipino food truck, and had Joe order the drinks.  Great choices of food and the six of us had 2 sampler trays of various ciders.

On to the next site about a mile or so away, Turnagain brewery, which used to be King Street brewery before they moved down the street.  A barbecue food truck and I ordered a round of fried pickles to go with the beer.  This time again I had a full beer and others a sampler.  Sitting around with great conversation.

Back on the bike and we arrived at the new King Street Brewery with its brand new building.  Nice and big but very limited outdoor seating, the inside a nice decor of steel framework.  Unfortunately steel tends to bounce sound and not absorb, hence to place is loud, but another beer down.  Did not visit the food truck as slowing down quite a bit on the consumption.

Anchorage Brewing is around the corner with fire island bakery across the parking lot.  Unfortunately my drinking and eating abilities are not what they were in previous times, and we just looked.

But now time to return finding the bike path again and continuing westward to experience the new pavement laid down like smooth butter.  No potholes, cracks, frostheaves, and such.

A return to where we met and Jeanne and I returned home.  This was supposed to be an afternoon activity.  6 and 1/2 hours after depart we arrived home, after a delightful day.  27 miles of friends, beer, conversation, and I got to ride my bicycle. Life is good.

And holy mackerel, trying to find some sort of picture for this rambling, as I did not take any pictures, I found you can get tour companies to take you on this tour.  Wow $200 for a day tour.  Whew.  The world is crazy.

There’s a lot to learn for wasting time

Neil Young

My friend Günter from Germany is riding from Anchorage to San Francisco starting by heading north to Fairbanks, then over the Top of the World Highway to Dawson, Canada and on down south.  Originally he wanted to ride across North America west to east but several told him that was rather boring and better going north to south.  I met Günter when he joined the Andes Trail with bike dreams in 2014 for the last month into Ushuaia.  He now has another trip and I seem to live vicariously, so am helping him out.  He arrived Anchorage and departed a few days later after recovering from the jet lag.  He rode to Fairbanks, then was headed east. Here is my version, he tells his story in his blog, but it is in German.  http://guderley.com

Great fun. Talked with Günter last Saturday the 18 May, and he was a bit concerned about conditions on top of the world highway, as yet very early. I said I would check and call him back. Called the Dawson (Yukon Territory, Canada) visitor information whom I had talked to about a week ago. The incredibly pleasant ladies there said they would check and call me back. 15 minutes later I get the call and report in:  border crossing will open Monday, the gravel road is wet but good, and no established campground between Chicken and Dawson (about 200 kilometers). I called Günter and reported the results and offered if need be, I could drive up and offer help as need. Ok!  

Monday we talked again and he said it would be nice for me to come up, if for nothing  else than just to see each other again. I said I would meet him tomorrow in Tok, Tuesday afternoon. It would be I thought 6-7 hours drive to Tok, Alaska where we would meet and I would leave about 8 or 9 in the morning. I quickly threw some things in the car and had a delightful evening with Jeanne.  Oh boy a road trip.  It would be nice to go to the interior where supposedly weather is warm and sunny, unlike the coast.

Tuesday, I left about 9:10 after filling Volvo with petroleum and stopping at a bakery for treats for Günter. I arrived in Tok at about a quarter before 3 having basically set the speed control at the speed limit of either 55or 65 mph.  A wonderful drive although rain at Eureka summit crossing into the Copper River Valley, Mentasta Pass, crossing into the Tanana Valley which drains into the Yukon River, and the rain started again when I arrived in Tok. I am tired of clouds and rain. I am ready for some sunshine. It was been a wet chilly past month in Anchorage. Along the way were 4 big caribou, one grizzly bear, two big moose, plus maybe fifty swans.  

Günter was waiting in Fast Eddy’s  restaurant (the only place to eat in town) and we had some beer and a snack.  I needed some blood movement so went for a walk in the rain returning to our motel room soaked despite the rain jacket.  Dinner and to bed 

Wednesday, Morning found Günter departing about 8:30 and I about 10.   I caught him about noon in s heavy snow storm 50 kilometers up the road.  Temp about freezing but miserable biking conditions, he then joined me in the car to Chicken. Amazing as they asked if we had reservations and had no rooms to rent. 15 seconds later we have two of the more expensive motel rooms I have stayed at, but actually really nice, $89 each, no potable water, restrooms across the path to main building, heat is minimal and unfinished.  But we knew ahead of time that Chicken, Alaska was a remote site,  thus I brought 5 gallons of water and we could get all the bottle water we want (but store only open 8-4) 

As I remember it the day ended up rather inebriated. A wondrous evening, Günter and I went for a walk discovering all three cafes in Chicken were not yet serving food as too early in the season, so no food delivery until next week. But we have lots of cheese, bread, beer, and whiskey, thus no problem. The sun came out and we moved chairs to west side of building into the sunshine. Stacy from Austin Texas walks by our porch brings her bourbon which turned out to be rum, but all good, and we proceed from there. A fellow who grew up in Tok got a job here in Chicken for the summer joined us while he cooked his dinner in the back of his pickup truck.  We had a  great evening, just bullshitting, talking, laughing, drinking.   The only real discussion I remember was about Romania and watching the sun move across the horizon.  Life is good. 

And the best part of day. I got to help unload the truck of summer supplies. A semi truck. Life is really good.

Day 2  of being with Günter started mostly sunny with birds singing their morning symphony and I said I would catch up fairly quickly as he left about 7:30. Catching him soon, was not to be, as it turns out breakfast came with the room, which I discovered when going over to gift shop for morning coffee.  A waffle and sausage patty.  Not bad!  Conversations with more travelers with Florida license plates then onward, but a mile up the road is a hike which reportedly is bike able but I decided to walk and the decision was quickly verified when numerous down trees and boggy conditions would have made walking a necessity anyway.  A good walk overlooking an old abandoned gold dredge.  Lots of history in this 40 mile region.

Finally caught Günter after 3 hours as he was starting up the second big climb of day.  I drove to the top,  changed into biking gear and had a delightful downhill ride for  4 1/2 kilometer (3 miles) then climbing the 220 meter elevation gain back (700 feet)to car. Nice to ride again.  A stop for lunch at the top in the car when it started raining, then began to thunder and lightning.  After  a few minutes I said I had no interest in camping up here on ridge of “top of the world highway” in this weather, and he agreed.  We had hoped to get just beyond the U. S. Canadian border and camp, but glad we decided to head into Dawson.   Whew, snowing, cold temperature at freezing, driving  somewhat slow due to visibility, slush, and generally just not good especially for camping.  

We descended into Dawson taking the ferry over the Yukon river which gave us time to read texts which began arriving  just before the ferry as we got close to town and cell reception.  Somehow we survived 38 hours without WiFi internet access.  The clocks changed on phones with time zone, but  zero bars or reception. Amazing world when one can survive 38 hours without communication with the outside world. 

Found a hotel and moved in, having to change rooms once due to leaking ceiling from all the rain continuing to come down.  A dinner celebration, then on to “ Diamond Tooth Gertie”, a saloon, with can can show of the 1890,s. We noted that we were probably the oldest ones in there, but a very pleasant time.  

Friday, with great sadness I departed to return home.  Depressing, and I was wondering what the heck am doing.  Reached the ridge where conditions yesterday were bad, now starting to dry out, but I was  still feeling down, so changed clothes and went for a nice bike ride 10k down the road and returning to car feeling much improved.  Back on the road again, spirits lifted, and opted to take the “take at your own risk” road to the abandoned town of Clinton and the bridge over the forty mile river which we have floated several times.  This road had even less traffic and when you came across someone you stopped and talked.  One fellow (of the two cars I came across. turns out is the owner of the entire town of Clinton,  then returned to top of world highway. This road being somewhat busy with a car every 30 minutes you only wave when you pass someone.  

And easy going through border.  Farthest north U. S. border and not sure why they put it on the highest most remote section of the road.   Someone smarter than me, figures these things out.  

Now camping at our lunch spot where yesterday it was storming so bad.  Dinner and into tent before the rain started again, although did note a right rear tire on car a bit low so checked pressure and yes leaking.  Pumped it with the bicycle pump taking almost 15 minutes but exercise is good.  

In the morning tire looked ok but pressure down so pump again and drive to chicken where no tire repair, but a compressor.  I was told to be brave and get to Tok.  Stopped to pump the tire with bicycle pump 2 times in the hour and half drive (78 miles). I do have one of the doughnut lightweight spare tires, but have had very bad luck with them, and best if one can avoid it.  

Along the way looking for two women riding to Ushuaia, whom Günter had met along the way, but I did not see them. Did stop and talk with a couple of Germans heading to Las Vegas, and a couple from Utah heading to Utah. Nice to see people out and about exploring.

Made it back to Tok repaired tire for $25 pulling the rock which had punctured the tire.  A nice walk between rains and now back to Anchorage.  I think it is time to quit living vicariously.

The test of our progress is not whether we add to the abundance of those who have much, but whether we provide enough to those who have little

Franklin Roosevelt

Has been a great first day in Washington D.C., but we arrived last pm. Found a restaurant about 6 blocks away but proved great with a waiter who filled us with lots of local info. The walk home and unlocking the apartment I dropped the keys., when trying to unlock inner door. Did not hear them hit, but knew they fell. We could not find them in the dark but hooray for cell phone flashlights, which also refused to show the keys. Then we noticed the cover off the 3″ storm drain. At first did not see them but it was water about 2 feet down. Then I saw the green nylon cord they were on.

Suffice it to say it was a bit of a worry. Took us an hour an half to finally retrieve them. Difficulty finding a stick but then it just pushed whatever down further and I knew there was a drain somewhere down there. The owner was in Philadelphia and could not help. Jeanne went in search of a coat hanger and after 25 minutes returned having paid $20 to 4 month pregnant homeless lady to help find one. Still no luck, and now Jeanne called a locksmith but as he was explaining the difficulties the coat hanger managed to return the keys. An hour a a half.

The entry way with covered (now) drain

On to today though and started a Washington D. C. Walking tour of the monuments and memorials. I thought of my friend Zak who said everyone should visit there nations capital at least once. The history of the United States is amazing and it shows. I was impressed by the history of l,enfante who designed the mall at the direction of George Washington. He wanted a large space which over time one could show the monuments to our history. Wow. Impressive. The Washington monument is impressive from every angle and lighting. When built it was the tallest building in the world 550 feet. It is closed now for repairs of the elevators, but outside was blocked off, perhaps making a memorial of where I threw up in 1965.

Then the World War II memorial and on to Vietnam memorial. I never went to Vietnam but it had a huge affect on me, and the memorial brought me to tears. I tried to remember the names of the people I knew who were lost there, but my memory failed me.

There were two things which struck me today, the number of people who were willing to give their lives for their beliefs, throughout history, and the eloquence of some of our leaders.

vietnam memorialKorean war memorialKorean war memorial

We moved on and diverged for the self guided tour and walking to Arlington cemetery viewing the women’s war memorial and Kennedy gravesite.

Lincoln memorial not only with his statue but the Gettysburg address and his second inaugural address engraved on the side walls. Very powerful

As a newspaper reported recorded several years after Lincoln’s death:

“Washington taught the world to know us

Lincoln taught us to know ourselves”

Then to World War I and Martin Luther king jr.

School class with MLK

Then franklin Roosevelt and it was not the tiny little memorial but had been moved to cover 6 acres. There was the small memorial but much more covering his 4terms in office and how he raised the standards and pulled us through another world war.

Jefferson was the final visit of the day and it capped the wonders of the day taking us back to the writing of the Declaration of Independence.

now we were hungry, breakfast having worn off hours ago. We agreed to head home and try and find a restaurant along the way. Several restaurants, all closed. Finally found a Korean restaurant near home. Someone told us this is a business town and restaurants here do not cater to tourists. Not sure where they eat.

And we looked for my bike path I rode in on over 50years ago but could not find anything resembling my memory. If it was there it is a highway now.

Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. John F. Kennedy 

In the 1970’s Jeanne worked in Yosemite park as a nurse.  It was a life altering event in that it opened up her views of the world.  Her coworkers were amazing and bonded with each other.  They have kept in close contact and attempt to get together every year for a reunion of some sort.  Last year they came to Alaska and visited Jeanne and I. This year we came to visit Judy who resides in New Orleans.  She has shown us an amazing taste of New Orleans.  

New Orleans definitely is a town with atmosphere. Most cities are just cities, which can be interesting, but New Orleans seems alive, vibrant with multiple activities some time specific, some ongoing and localized.  From evening one when Judys sister and husband had made us jumbalaya, which goes over New Orleans style potato salad, to restaurants ,to the crawfish boil. The food is incredible.  

One Uber driver was worried if we had been getting a food taste of New Orleans.  He said hurricane Katrina made him realize how good the food was.  During the hurricane local food was not available and when it returned folks began to realize what they had.  

Day one we started at the World War II museum. We spent 3 1/2 hours and were overwhelmed with well presented information .  And we only saw a portion skipping the movie, and numerous exhibits.  It was intense.  I came away with the feeling of the millions of stories created and often untold.  As one historian said he found the closer to combat the participants were the less they talked.  It was only in the last years of my dad and his cousins did I discover the things they had been through.  It was the same for Jeanne’s dad.  Once again the museum reiterated the human nature of thinking I am far better than you.  

Day two we went on a swamp tour.  Oh my.  Very different than Alaska wilderness.  Alligators, wild boar, birds, trees living in water, snakes.  The tour guide was great and the more questions we asked the more interesting he became.  A good old boy who grew up locally.  He claimed he had only been a guide for a week and learned his information from u-tube videos, information which seemed to require years of accumulation including how to drive a boat through those trees, roots, and currents.   He had gotten up early to hunt for the elusive hot dogs which alligators like and marsh mellows which pigs like.  I have never seen those trees, marshmallow or hot dog trees.

Day three was the purpose of visiting this time of year; the French quarter jazz festival – billed as the largest free show of Louisiana music.  Judy dropped us off as since she lived here she did not feel the urge to visit, and parking is a pain.  She offered to stay back with Jeanne who was increasingly sick with cough and sinus congestion.  We had gone to a doc in the box that morning and she received  a shot.  

We had schedules of bands, venues, times and activities of which by the end of day we ended up just wandering about for 7 hours trying and failing to fit it all in.  At one point I texted my sister saying I was sitting in front of police station with beer in one hand, a mint julep in the other just watching people and it was only 11 am.  (One can wander the streets with booze here, very nice as not corraled off as most places.  You just cannot have glass bottles)

Music venues everywhere and activities were to be found everywhere, but I was feeling tired as also was succumbing to the tiredness dogging Jeanne.  I decided to call Uber for an early ride home.  Judy would pick up the rest after rush hour at 6:30.  I had never used Uber but it was amazing.  The driver was a wealth of information and wanted to make sure I was enjoying New Orleans as it was his city.  And it was about half as expensive as a taxi and easier to get, knowing before hand where he was and who he was.   No wonder it has taken off.  

Day four Judy dropped us off at the trolley stop, where we boarded the longest continually operated city trolley in the world.  Apparently started around 1800. Great to travel the neighborhoods and university districts.  Tulane and Loyola universities are both here along with numerous others.  It 

Arrived again at French quarter and much more crowded being a Saturday.  More venues and fewer plain street musicians.  Very good but crowded.  We ate at a different restaurant again I had delicious oysters just different.  Still lots of garlic and excellent.  After Jeanne and I wandered a bit to show her the jazz fest then back to trolley and an Uber ride back to Judys.  

Day five. Drove across Lake Pontchartrain which I understand is the longest bridge in the world, being 24 miles long. (38.5 kilometer)

We rented bikes to ride the rails to trail ride to Anita and the brewery there.  Delightful ride although I do not understand where comfort bike term comes from.  Sit straight up not allowing any power into the legs.  The big wide soft tractor seat with big springs was very uncomfortable.  After 20 miles I wanted my arrow saddle bent over bike.  Everyone was sore.  

Then on to judy’s family and a crawfish boil.  Oh my oh my.  They know how to put on a feed.  I envisioned a few crawfish on a plate, but we went through 2 20 gallon tubs.  Oh my.  They showed us the whole process – cleaning, takes 4-5 rinses getting out the detritus from the mud (which can include snakes and such) putting the vegetables (corn, garlic, potatoes, hot dogs, etc. and spices in pot. Boil and pour out on table, covering the table covered with newspaper.  Plates are about 50 cm  (20 inches) across and you fill them up.  To eat you break the crawfish in half then suck the head to get the spices, then pinch the tail for the meat.  

Being new to the process we timidly filled our plates and sat at counter .  Laura took my plate to demonstrate the proper way and filled my plate.  Apparently no one else in our group cared to follow suite.  We were actually astounded when a second boil (pot) was put on.  When he came ready Judy’s family had helped us finish our serving and went into the second.  They did not waste time on sitting and plates, just stood around table and feasted. They could go through 4-6 crawfish to my one.  And the conversation flowed.  Delightful!

Day six and off to hike about Jean Lafitte national historical park.  The visitor center was closed due to funding cuts, but trails great.  Hike about 3 miles along mostly boardwalks.  Viewing numerous snakes, garter snakes, bull snakes?, copperheads, frogs, birds, and 3 alligators.  What a different world.

Today “just a walk in the park “near home.  Delightful just walking watching birds, trees, the creek.  A three mile running track, a dog park, carousel merry go round.  At last some people who were not overly happy, but they were runners with headphones on.  

People here have been super friendly.  In the Avita bar a lady came up to us saying she had been easedropping on us and realized we were not fro here.  (Probably because we were only ones to not have an accent in the room). She wanted to wish us a delightful visit.  

It has been a wondrous visit and I now understand why people love coming here.  We should return.