Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent

Isaac Asimov

History is an interesting thing. Humanity is also rather interesting, confusing but interesting. We left the town of Kas, on the southern coast of turkey and crossed maybe 3 kilometer of water arriving at Greek island of Kastellorizo (Megisti) and went through customs, having to leave our passports with the police there

After World War I the islands in the Mediterranean were granted to Greece. Seems funny having these islands just off the Turkish coast belong to Greece but the world is funny. And there is a large military presence on the Greek island, apparently half the island is military land. There is a large warship loaded with cruise misses and such at the village. As there was a military ship at Kas, which Charles and I toured. All over there is military presence. I guess falls into the category of if you hate me I will hate you, despite being neighbors. Humanity? apparently the Greeks here can buy perishable items in Kas and get a local customs permit to cross back and forth without problem, but non perishable items have to come from the isle of Rhode’s, a distance of 150 kilometer. There is a 10 year wait list to build a house with the backup of supplies.

The town of Megisti is a quaint town currently resident population of about 360 and double that if you include military living here. Used to be 14000, but the town was bombed in World War I by the Germans.

A short drove to west side of island brought us to some limestone cliffs which one tiny area has a small entry into a cave. The blue cave. 2 kayaks and paddle board went in, but did not think entry possible as a bit of wave action. Some tour boats outside with people swimming in. But we took the dinghy and started in having to lay completely on floor as only a meter at most clearance and wave action changing height constantly. But entry then was amazing. At first I thought “wow, they have lighted this cave”. There is an iridescent blue color. It is all natural light from the entry through the water.

I started to swim back to our ship just motoring a hundred meters off the cave. Too deep to anchor. A tour boat in little runabout stopped me saying too dangerous, despite our crew granting permission for me. Tour boat made me get in their boat and wait until his tourist boarded. Our dinghy arrived but tour boat operator said do not go there, but I jumped in anyway. Enver said when back on board, to not listen to people I don’t know, but the tour operator kept blocking my way. We figure the tour boat did not want to set a precedence of swimming. Oh well whatever.

Back to town others wanted to hike the hill to castle and church, but I just wanted to sit at sidewalk cafe, have a beer, and absorb the town life. Ned joined me and we had a delightful time, which 4 beers helped. Jeanne joined us, and the proprietor thrilled us with various answers to various questions. His English quite adequate. Another beer enroute to rendezvous with rest of group.

A delightful meal Enver had a giant pork chop which one can’t have in turkey,due to Muslim no pork rule. I had thinly sliced raw sea bass, covered in caviar, jeanne-4 apparently delicious big prawns, and squid as an appetizer for all along with fried sardines. Absolutely delicious meal.

Slept on board boat in harbor, walked to bakery in am for morning bread, and breakfast. Then off again to this uninhabited island (except military) for snorkeling swimming, kayaking etc delightful

Now approaching Kas, Turkey again where will spend night. Hoped for a quiet anchorage, but alas punched hole in dinghy on the limestone so will spend night to repair.

Only those who dare to fail greatly can ever achieve greatly.

John F Kennedy

This is a massive subject, although someone said it is just one thing after another. Hence, I will start in the middle.

Arrived Izmir via flight from cappadocia region via Istanbul. Turkish air fed us a hot sandwich both flights one an hour another 45 minutes can’t remember last time fed a meal on domestic flight

Driver and van arrived and off to lunch. Another incredible Turkish meal. I have concluded we are not allowed to be remotely hungry on this trip.

Then to the ruins of Ephemeris, one of the largest Roman cities, with a population of 200, 000 people, which included slaves which were in significant numbers. Apparently some “owned” as many as 2000.

The city was rediscovered and is slowly being “dug out”. One could see the Main Street again full of people “tourists” it was inhabited 2 millennia ago.

I find it interesting to see cultures containing art. It takes a rich culture to have the ability for spare time to support the arts tome seemed to be above and beyond this. I describe it as decadent. But labor was cheap.

Besides ornate columns and frescos, the Roman’s were great developers of modern culture and survivabiliyy. Sewer systems, water systems water transport. Amazing technology. One thinks of “primitive civilizations as primitive, considering ourselves to be the epitome of civilization, but two thousand years ago people had developed amazing system still in use today.

Of course religion played a huge part of any civilization from the beginning. If anything happened to you, it has been considered to be due to the gods. People always have wondered why or where we came from. Gods gave us the answer. I suppose people believe in a system of fairness. If I am good to the gods and worship them the gods will be good to them. Roman’s were no different. Hence the statues.

Just finished another lunch breaking up a 3 hour drive to the southern coast where we board a boat and downs 9 days cruising.

The most dangerous world view is the view of those who have never looked at the world.

Alexander von Humboldt

Departed Doha at 2 pm Saturday the 16 September. A huge airport and nice have the hotel to sleep. Sort of attempted to go through customs immigration but many said for the short time we would be gone was a bit dicey, so we never left the transit area. Something the United States does not have: areas where you can stay without going through immigration and security when you are just transferring planes. Very nice.

In anchorage the ticket agent said could only check baggage to Doha and not complete trip as it was a 20 hour layover and too long to hold baggage. When we got to Seattle checking into flight to Doha agent said she could change it to go all the way to Istanbul. If it had only gotten to Doha, we might have not been able to get back into security area and hotel until just before flight.

Arrived Istanbul and got a ride to hotel. A car race driver wannabe, but we got here in good shape, although my bag did not arrive on plane. Qatar airlines said they would deliver when it was found.

Sunday morning met our guide for the next two days,Fulya. She was great, what a wealth of information. History is her passion and there is lots of history here. At the meeting point of Europe and Asia here on the Bosphorus straights, cultures have come together for millennia. My brain is full, and trying to remember and digest it all.

Eastern edge of the Roman Empire, and old aqueducts and the hippodrome where the chariot races were held.

And we went through numerous mosques of various sultans and important people. Like a lot of place the religious sites are built big and grandiose and people like to see.

The past two days began at about 9 am and lasted until 9 pm walking, seeing, trying to absorb the vast knowledge Fulya was trying to impart upon us.

The area is dry and the powers at that time created these gigantic cistern to hold water. We toured one estimating it over a hundred meters long and 50 meter wide and maybe 20 meters deep. Holds a huge amount of water.

The would stop for lunch at a restaurant which Fulya knew of and each day it was incredible.

Monday lunch did not have the view but awesome food.

Sunday evening we took a tour on ferry along the Bosphorus straight, which was delightful. So many boats, one better know the rules of road. Big bulk containers, (no Ukrainian grain though), ferry’s, a cruise ship, private yachts, and a few private boats.

It is an amazing city, as I understand it between 16 and 20 million people. A good transportation system. Took the subway over to Asia today, a very pleasant ride. As with many things once you learn how it is easy. Fun to figure out each city system.

But tonite was awesome. Here is the story. In about 2009 both jeanne and I worked as nurses. One evening a 21 year old fellow, came in having crashed his rental bicycle on day 2 of his trip to make money for the summer. He was on a work student visa (J1) and was planning to make money for a camera, so he could begin work as a professional photographer. Well, his dreams were shattered and he met us by going to surgery with nowhere to go after. We took him home. He stayed with us only a day then returned to the hostel where he could network.

I happened to still have his email and instagram account, and thus contacted him, just before this trip, not knowing if he was around or what. A delightful evening catching up after 14 years. Thinking similar sharing stories and meeting his fiancé, just asked her last week.( although together for many years) he is a professional photographer now and filmmaker.

One never knows where life will take you, one day you are riding your bicycle, the next moment your hand is broken, and life changes. 14 years later you have dinner with some wondrous people.

My bag showed up just now, 6 hours before our departure. Should I pack or unpack.

If people did not sometimes do silly thing, nothing intelligent would ever get done

Ludwig Wittgenstein

This is turning into a little journal of travels. But somehow I always envisioned it being not only travel but ideas, thoughts and a bit of personal philosophy. Maybe boring, I guess. But it is what I am.

Thus a quick recap of life since returning from Tanzania, Africa. That still remains an amazing trip. Some folks return to africa over and over, and I understand. It was fascinating and one sees things when traveling, overlooked in every day life at home. I, of course, would return on that trip, but there is so much out there and other places beckon. There are 53 very different countries in Africa. I am thinking many folks want to travel to Alaska. Well that is my home, and after nearly 50 years there, I still find it fascinating, and have not come close to doing what there is to do. Jeanne and I have discussed possibly moving to other places, but each time the community brings us to stay. It has its downsides, but it is home. Thus now a recap of past 6 months in alaska.

Hence, again on return from Africa I endeavored to find the joy in home. And we did. Immersed in the ski jumping community, as volunteers, as well as the middle school ski races. It was a busy spring. I did receive my certification to become a national certified ski jumping judge. Whoppee. Not sure what that does, as next national meet I attend is next February, the junior national ski jumping championships. Only one judge allowed from our alaska division, and I have been promoted to “chief of hills”. That means if the hills are not perfect and all the water, electricity, snow, grooming, and physical facilities are not perfect, it is my fault.

Jeanne had surgery on her foot from a long standing problem which was greatly exacerbated while in Africa. It was a rough 6 weeks of non weight bearing, and we have 3 flights of stairs at home. 5 of 12 people on the Africa trip had surgery on return. Only 3 were exacerbated on that trip, 2 were after trip falls.

In April, Zak, the head coach and ski jumping administrator went on a preparatory ski, climbing trip in the mountains behind Alyeska, the downhill ski area where I spent a fair amount of time. He was preparing for a climb and ski off the summit of Denali, in May. When I returned to town from skiing, about 3 pm I got a call that Zak had set off his emergency SOS button on the inreach device. That is major! Turns out the third person down set off a huge avalanche. Brandon tumbled down over a thousand feet, over two cliffs, and somehow did not get buried. He only had a major shattered femur. It required a military high angle rescue, hoisting the litter into the hovering helicopter. It changed a lot of the spring, and summer. Zak and Nate had to ski out.

Summer began and our friend Natasha, one of the ski jumping coaches, asked to go on a river trip with us, as she said we always seem to have such fun and she had never been on a multiple day river trip. Well that is easy to arrange. Zak was scheduled to go but work things got in way.

A mutual friend in Seattle met a traveler, biking and surfing his way from Ushuaia Argentina to Deadhorse alaska, on the north coast and arctic ocean. She quite kindly encouraged him to look me up when trip done. He stayed with us for a week and we thoroughly enjoyed showing off alaska. He has a great video link on Utube called “kooks on bikes“

The summer solstice ski jumping camp was held the week of summer solstice, and was a great event, despite the main water line blowing out on an upgrade we did in the spring. Nothing like being up on the hill trying to figure out how to repair the line quickly, while some 150 people from all over North America are below watching you wondering when they can jump again. The kids were great and seemed to have fun. Kids are kids! On solstice, most of the rules and coaching go out the window, and we turn them loose to jump until 1 am. It is just fun. Ok, Natasha did say no going down backwards.

A great one day bike trip 1 July with zak and Natasha. 23 mile (40 k). Johnson pass trail a few days before it gets too overgrown to ride.

Then the river trip. We were planning on the chulitna river and taking 4-5 days, but we needed another boat for safety as just our raft and Natasha in a packraft is not enough margin of safety. Hence we invited Craig and Cyd, who were just returning from a river trip near fairbanks, and had done the chulitna the end of may with family. Craig and I have known each other for nearly 40 years and done numerous river trips together. They live in Utqiagvik, the farthest north point in the United States. Craig is the preeminent biologist about bowhead whale biology. When they come to anchorage I thoroughly enjoy sitting down with Craig with a scotch in hand and discuss the latest in universal discoveries, or scientific explorations. What has the James Webb space telescope discovered, what is the meaning of life, where are we going, and why are we in this handbasket.

Thus we began camping at the put in of the river on the 4th of July for a departure on the fifth. The morning of the fifth Craig and I would spout out some river rules to Natasha who was new to river running. Always have things tied in, in case of a flip, if you get knocked out of boat never be downstream of the boat, and on and on. We were having fun. As we left and I pushed off into the river, I I explained to Craig “this trip we are going to discover the true answers”. And Craig had purchased the fireworks for nightly entertainment, to prove the point.

40 minutes into the trip an avoidance of a log log jam caused Natasha to come out of her packraft, and Craig was also out of his boat floating. I was able to get a throw line to Natasha, and got her in our boat, but when we rounded the corner where Craig had floated, with Cyd in their boat, the entire floatable current went into a log jam. Cyd was in the boat, but Craig was gone.

Jeanne, Natasha and I managed to get to a sandbar, avoiding us going into the logjam where Cyd was sitting. We somehow managed to get Cyd off their boat and to our sandbar. Natasha and I worked trying to move their boat with a z drag pulley system, to no avail. There was no sign of Craig. I finally punched the SOS button calling for help through the satellite emergency system. The state trooper helicopter arrived an hour and half later, helping to get us to a safe place on shore, then taking jeanne and Cyd back to cars. Natasha and I with two troopers walking out the kilometer back to road, a heinous 75 minute trek through thick brush, water, mosquitos and horror. Our summer and lives were changed forever. Craig was found 11 days later on a sandbar.

At the memorial in Utqiagvik, Natasha asked before I spoke if I could make it without crying. I said a 60% chance, but I did not even make it through the first sentence. After the memorial numerous of us went out on the beach and had a bonfire watching the midnight sun. (Utqiagvik is 71 degrees north, way above the arctic circle.)

Over the summer there were various reminders of the event, as if we needed that. Various people would find some of our items along the river, and return them. We lost both our rafts but currently most gear has been returned. My friend Geoff and I went into a burger joint in Anchorage and happened on a person who knew of our event. She was heading up a conference, and Craig was to be the lead speaker at a conference on intertidal activity along the arctic, the week after our return.The conference was cancelled. All my questions remain unanswered, and the fireworks are saved for new years.

August found us back with ski jumping, hosting about 15 kids from British Columbia, Canada. They came for a week as their jumps were not at their training level. great fun, and a welcome diversion from our minds. Showing off alaska.

Alas, also in august my 100 year old aunt in Illinois was hit by a car while crossing a street. Jeanne and I went back to Illinois, and despite the reasons celebrated her life with my cousins. She was awesome, and I confess I liked her following this blog. She always had some comment. The last of that generation, for our family.

Now September and currently sitting on a plane again heading out. We departed at 11 am from anchorage, scheduled to arrive Seattle at 3:30 pm, departing at 5:30 pm for Doha, Qatar, a 14.5 hour flight, arriving 6:30 pm tomorrow evening. This is the same flight we took in February, but this time we spend 18 hours in Doha, then fly back to Istanbul, where our current trip starts. We arrive there at 6:45 Saturday evening. It is now Thursday.

If you want the same results keep doing the same thing

When we are no longer able to change a situation, we are challenged to change ourselves.

Victor Frankl

And thus it is winding down for Jeanne and I. We are the only two left of our group. Due to a airline schedule change we had to stay an extra day here at Katambuga Lodge. The staff are taking incredible care of us. it is wonderful to see a staff which is not totally pressed to get things done. They seem to have time, almost too much. Seems every time I turn around they ask if all ok and if I need anything. In an hour I will find my bar bill for past three days here.

And thinking of the past month and remembering. Of course the animals stand out – mammals, birds, insects reptiles, plants, and thinking of interactions. But also thinking of people and humanity, interactions and history.

I had never thought too much about it, but history can tell a lot about the present. Slavery was a big thing here, dating back to beginning of humanity really , but in Africa it became a modern day commercialized industry. It destroyed cultures and people. Look at the modern world and many countries are messed up because of their slave history. It is hard to just dismiss it and go on without being affected. Look at the United States, it is still suffering 160 years after slavery officially ended.

Then there is colonialism. Similar to slavery but very different. One culture comes in and moves in on another. Africa is full of it as are many places (unnamed). People think they are better than others or are unsatisfied with their lot in life and move elsewhere. As one fellow here I was talking with said colonialism taught the people to be taken’ care of and not fend or think for themselves. Finally colonialism has ended (although one could make an argument takeovers have not.) many years though of subservience did not immediately go away.

Back to the good things – it has been an awesome trip. Both Jeanne and I agree we would do it again in a heartbeat. But every trip is different. Like doing the same bike ride every day. Each day is different. The past is gone and a pleasant memory. The future who knows, but the present is as said a present, enjoy it.

I have said it before when people comment on how wonderful it must be to have the adventures and travels we have had. Yes quite true But I look at it through my lens and everyone has a story and their own adventures.

Ok departed the wondrous lodge after lunch, and shower. Departed at 13:58 now through customs and in lounge (thanks to our status with alaska air). Nice to have a beer in air con without crowding. 3 hours to here. ok Wi-Fi is bad here at airport so will give up for now.

Ok random thoughts talked with lady returning home to Spain. We agreed Tanzanians very happy and friendly people laughing smiling

COVID was denied in Tanzania. Although numerous people died including the president. Tasmania to the best of my knowledge, depends on about 45% of its economy on tourism, and it halted for 2 years. They were quite happy to see us.

The Tanzanian flag has three colors. Blue for the ocean, yellow for the minerals, green for the vegetation, and black for the people. Public school children wear uniforms in those colors.

And going home. Currently in the cattle corrals at Qatar airport awaiting departure to Seattle. They did not have a full staff waiting for us with fresh juice at airport hotel. This airport is huge. We are in c gates which number well over a hundred. Presuming a, b,& d gates are same.

And home where it is our bed and our food our cooking, our schedules, done our way. As my dad would say not right or wrong just our way.

Six hour plane ride to Doha, Qatar, where again had a hotel room. 45 minutes after landing we were in bed. Slept delightfully and at gate 15 minutes after depart room. Urgently 13 hours from Doha and 1 1/2 hour to go supposedly arriving just before noon Seattle time. Not bad read (audio) one book watched one movie, ate 3 meals watched the map a lot of progress And ponder being cold at home.

In Seattle customs easy but security getting off the plane always cracks me up and never left secure Area. Jobs program. Now have been through 3 to get here. Plus 1 to get off plane.

Pain nourishes courage.

You can’t be brave if you have had only wonderful things happen to you.

Mary Tyler Moore

I am finding internet interesting. The last post -“Gombe”, had a lot of photos and some video. When I look at it before hitting the post button it looks fine. But when I looked at posted version not all the pictures were there just the labels. Perhaps, if I wait longer, implying it takes a while to load from the server, but that did not seem to fix it.

Wondering if photos showed up for anyone else. Perhaps leave a comment as I am curious and need to delve farther or is this just a local problem.

Traveling always presents some problems. I recently read a saying by someone I cannot remember the name of

“One does not learn about other cultures while traveling, you learn about yourself”

I find this quite true. One can never really learn a culture just by looking at it from the outside. One needs to experience it from living the culture, which entails a lifetime of living. One can look at a farmer and see them tilling the soil, sowing the seed etc but one cannot really see or feel what that is like without doing it. Travelers like to look at something and see it, have it explained but most often they want to experience it through their own lens.

If I go somewhere I want to experience the travel. But take food for instance. We are trained to like and eat certain things and ways. We want to experience but not be out of our comfort zone. Inupiat native foods are an example. Fermented meat with blood is actually very good but takes some adjusting and learning. Or eating insects. Or eating a freshly shot Genet cat. But eating the cat as a tourist is one thing, eating it as a Hadza is different. That is their sustenance.

And getting back to internet, we come from a world of internet. It has become a source of communication, sharing, learning, and education for us westerners. Over the past years we have learned this mode of communication. And we have begun to depend on it. Look at many places in the world, people are looking at their phones. Look at home and see how much technology is at the table.

And then when we are cut off from that technology it throws us off. We want our connection to our world.

I guess this little rant is now directed at me. I am mad at myself for getting upset with not having good Wi-Fi. When one is traveling somewhat one should accept the local customs. Hopefully for the 5-10 people reading this (on a good writing) you can interpret my writing and accept the foibles. Written on the phone and most photos with phone.