Man may turn which way he please, and undertake anything whatsoever, he will always return to the path which nature has prescribed for him.
Goethe
And now we are in a covid time and winter is upon us here in Alaska. Thus far it is a wonderful winter. With the changing climate Alaska has really noticed the increasing warmth and problems associated with that. I say normal ski season use to begin the first of October. People laugh and questioned that, and the last time that happened was 1995. (I define skiing as open the garage door, put on skiis and go.) I have for the last years defined winter as being cold, snowy, and dark. The last years the cold and snow has often been missing or inconsistent, which leaves the dark. Biking or skiing in the rain at above freezing temperatures is not a huge amount of fun. But this year is proving great. We have had snow on the ground for nearly 3 weeks now. Anchorage has some of the best ski and bike trails anywhere, and they are groomed exquisitely, primarily volunteer effort and volunteer contributions. Makes for a very fine community.
As for the covid thing well yes we are not socializing as much, not traveling, not getting together. But life is constantly changing and I am finding the new challenges can be exciting. Whereas we would often have a trip planned somewhere exotic or not, it was somewhere, but then I think, people spend a lot of time and money to come to Alaska to vacation, visit or whatever. There are some great things here. And we are enjoying them now, not that we did not before, but in a new light local stuff can brighten up.
Hence for the past 3 weeks, actually for the past 249 days since we went on “lock down” (not a true lockdown) I have been outside everyday. The past weeks exploring the trails has been delightful. Anchorage over the past 4 years, since I last really went mountain biking has developed some awesome single track trails. They have been building them for the past 10 years, but the past 4 years have really taken off. As I volunteer at the ski jumps I hear the near constant whooping of bikers on the trails below going through the woods. A trail called Jeff’s whoop whoop seems to create a lot of noise, and I now know why.
Trail Forks map of trails near my residence
But we are in full blown winter and delightful as the sun is low reaching a peak altitude of about 9 degrees above the horizon. One is required to stop whenever there is an opening amongst the tree which will allow you to stop and just stare at the sun. Sure feels good this time of year.
Sunshine stopTour of Anchorage trail Bicentennial park
With temperatures a very pleasant -10 C (14F) the world is quiet and serene. Anchorage has a large variety of micro climates sometimes ranging over 29 degrees C (50 F) over a 16 kilometer radius (10 miles). Most of the riding I find is in the colder areas. From our house it will be -10 C (14F) and we drop down a hill a couple kilometers and the temperature is -17C (4F). But as the saying goes “there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear”.
Life is a daring adventure or nothing. Helen Keller
Interesting past months. Have not been on my bicycle since October riding into Washington D.C. in the mud. Not that I have not done some sort of exercise, but biking has not happened. Numerous excuses. Pick one.
Hence it is time, and I began working on bikes. First the fat tire bike which I loaned to a friend to ride but in getting it ready had a hard time adjusting the front derailleur. Just could not get it to shift right. Ok ignore it fix it when it came back. Thus I started there. Oh my gosh. Embarassing!
Took the crank out and oh my! Seems I did not clean it thoroughly after riding the beach a few years ago. Some friend and I had ridden 70 miles (about 100K) from clam gulch to Homer over two days. Sand and salt water. Plus there were several creek crossings, which one I thought was 6″ deep (about 15 cm) but it was 6 feet (about 2 mete). Fat bikes float, but I and the bike got drug along the gravel for a bit.
E13 crank embarrassing but well used
I would say it had not been cleaned enough and has been well used. New crank chain rings, cluster, chain and basically a new drive train. Going 1x 10 getting rid of front derailleur.
Then the karate monkey a 29er I have for cruising about town. Just some cleaning adjusting and making it shine. Then Jeanne’s El Mariachi also a 29er which she took back east last fall. Needed put back together, bearings cleaned, brakes needed clear of air and gunk in the hydraulic lines. New cassette, chain, chain rings clean the derailleur.
Then the past weekend it was time to get out of Anchorage, as have either been visiting, or had visitors and been going hard, so we took a day and drove to Talkeetna, a quaint Alaska town overrun by tourists.
8 am Sunday morn
Climbing museum in Talkeetna with old gear at Talkeetna historical museum. Those are my old Galibier climbing boots in lower left. Historical or hysterical
We took the two 29er bikes and rode out of town on a delightful bike path. Oh my gosh. I forgot how much fun biking is, especially when the bikes are purring. Everything just flowed (well the motor was a bit off) what a treat!
“Your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.”
Anthony Boirdain
Successful departure. Got the car to auto storage but had to talk with owner for about an hour, retirement, cars, travels, life in general. Then same with Uber driver, although retirement was not on her list. She had lived all her life in Buffalo and wants to travel but ?.??.
I made it back to Jeanne looking sort of like a homeless camp with stuff scattered about the park. She was happily carrying on a conversation with one of local tour guides. Buffalo has and is reinvigorating itself with additions and upgrades to waterfront. Lots of concerts, activities and new buildings where people want to live. I packed as Jeanne went off in search of a bathroom.
The trail is great winding along the waterfront until turns off the Niagara River and then alongside the Erie Canal. A bit of roads but lightly traveled. Reminded me of Anchorage coastal trail except no moose. (That I saw)
Rest stop along the way for brake repair. Seems sitting on back of car for 16 days does not help.
Niagara River and river walk trail
We had hoped to get to the town of Medina about 46 miles along but we had difficulty finding if their was lodging the. Finally found a hotel but all rooms on 3rd floor and no elevator. That was enough of excuse to stay in Lockport which would make 33 miles. But I confess we were tired. Jeanne was trying to figure out why, while stating her bike was heavy. Even a partially loaded bike is different than an empty one. I assured her that as my friend Joe taught me on the great divide “3 days from now we will be in shape”
Delightful motel and outstanding dinner. Asleep by 9
The world is an amazing place.
History
Bike bridge under the peace bridge crossing Niagara River from Canada to USA
East Coast Wanderings
People like to tell other people what to do because we all mistakenly believe we’re someone else’s expert. But what is true is regret. You don’t want to spend the rest of your years wishing you had a second chance at life.
Steve Alaniz &Francesco Marciuliano ( Sally Forth comics)
It is about time for another bike ride. Have barely ridden much in past months with variety of excuses. Hence we are off to ride the Erie Canal going between Buffalo, New York, then a week visiting friends and then to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania to Washington D.C. via the Allegheny trail and C & O Towpath.
The cheap, smart and easy way would be to fly with the bikes, but the idea hit me why not drive cross country. Jeanne, who is not very keen on road trips, was at first a definite no, but then warmed to the idea if we camped and rode our bikes at least an hour every day. Ok, sounds good, google shows 4200 miles (6750 kilometres), thus 300 miles a day should be allow plenty of time to bike explore, rest, and enjoy.
Departed Anchorage 4 September, a tuesday with Tok in our sites. alas a late start meant late into Tok and it was a bit of rain. Got a motel. Who wants to put up a tent in rain or take it down in rain, and cooking is another story. Motel and restaurant were in order. Morning was still a bit of rain, but OK. We enjoyed the morning reading news, getting mad at world, because it does not conform to us, going to breakfast and finally departing about 10-11 am.
Made it to Takhini Hot Springs near Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory. It has become a mandatory stop since our first time in January of 1991 when at -20 degrees the ducks had found the only remaining open water, to be shared by us. It was raining again, hence to the hostel.
Takhini Hot Springs water temp about 85-104 (29-40C)
Yukon river at Whitehorse
Watson Lake sign forest started about 1946 soon after the Alaska Highway was created
Side pool landscape at liars Hot Spring water about 39 degrees C here
Liard Hot Springs a provincial park of British Columbia-delightful
Jeanne on boardwalk to Liard hot springs.
Woodland Buffalo along the Alaska Highway
Alberta Wheat fields and oil
Edmonton, Alberta
rest stop in Riding Mountain National Park an amazing park which includes 3 distinct areas, the rocky uplift of metamorphic rocks, the boreal forest of higher elevations and latitudes here, and the last preserved grasslands of the plains. (Apparently only 5% of the original plains remain and 3% are here.)
rest day in our one camp
Crossing the Continental Divide separating Atlantic and Arctic Oceans
Fall Colors
Lake Superior coastline (Ojibwa name is Gichi Gamiing) Pictographs on the walls. Lake Superior is an amazing place.
Walking to the pictographs
forest walk at picnic area. So many species of trees. Phenomenal to go from boreal forest to the temperate forests of mid latitudes.
Inuksuk a rock cairn built by Inupiats in the arctic to guide one through the flatlands. There are numerous ones all along the roadways of Ontario. This one stood nearly two meters high.
It is now the finish of day 14, and we are but 3 hours from Niagara Falls and Buffalo, New York where we begin riding. We have had the bikes off the car once, in Edmonton where we did not trust the security of the locks on the car and I rode them inside the motel. 30 meters. It has rained a little every day except today, even snowing for a few minutes over a pass. We did stop for a rest day at Riding Mountain National Park in Manitoba and visited friends driving from Nova Scotia back to California, having been gone 6 months. It was a great day and we camped for 2 nights, although ate dinner out and I made us breakfasts.
The amazing thing is we have felt rushed. Google maps says it involves 2 days and 18 hours of driving. But what of the questions and feeling the area, talking with people along the way, We wanted to cross Canada and see Canada. But how much time is enough. We talked with a ranger at Riding Mountain who had worked all over Canada (a huge country) but seemed to always return to Manitoba, as “there is so much to explore”. One can spend a lifetime in a place and still not know it.
I had thought Saskatchewan and Manitoba would just be flat boring landscape. I was very wrong, they are exciting: the country is always changing- which fields are cut, which are piled with brush for what purpose – with geese always seeming to be flying about preparing for routes south, or blackbird flocks hopping out of the cattails, the Iskootuk landmarks along the granite cliffs of Ontario (Inupiaq rock cairns marking the way) . Sandhill Cranes. And as I have noted before in flat places there are no mountains blocking the view.
I realized I wanted to be on the bicycle. That way one can feel the hills, smells the fields, experience the vastness. But that will come in a few days. Being in a car one still sees that horizon and wonders what is over it, but on a bicycle one can feel it and one works to get there, although I must admit my gas pedal foot is tired.
We now begin our transfer from sitting and driving to bicycling. Still sightseeing, questioning, exploring and trying to figure out how we fit in this scheme.
Sometimes Jeanne and I view things quite differently and seems to be interesting that her views are sometimes very different than mine.
Canada has been awesome. Not everything is perfect, but they do have a sense of taking care of themselves and others, very little trash, great roads, frequent rest areas, provincial parks and national parks galore. No wonder Canadians are proud of their country, they have every right to be proud.
I did notice that throughout Canada everyone has driven civilly with almost all going the speed limit which makes driving much easier, but as we near Toronto I notice there are those who maintain and then those which are in a hurry to get somewhere. Begin to ramble.
People like to tell other people what to do because we all mistakenly believe we’re someone else’s expert.But what is true is regret. You don’t want to spend the rest of your years wishing you had a second chance at life.Steve Alaniz & Francesco Marciuliano. (Sally Forth comics)
Denali Highwaythree days biking the Denali Highway, one of my favorite roads in Alaska. I first drove it in 1974 after a successful trip climbing MountDrum, my first big mountain climb.Since then I have driven it maybe a dozen times usually in the fall when the colors are in fulll glory. Mountains rise up to 13000 feet above the road paralleling the Alaska Range. For those who have been to Alaska this is the road which goes into Denali National Park, although that is not the section we rode. We road from near the entrance of Denali National Park east 134 miles (215 km)
Hence Jeanne and I, hopefully nicely, invited ourselves along with the Irving family bike ride across the Denali Highway.The real problem is the shuttle.That is why a invite with Irving was nice. Ken and JanLeeare our friends and head of the Irving family. Their daughter Bonnie has two kids 9 months and 3 years hence would be driving the van with the boys.Her husband Matt would ride along with Bonnie’s sister, Brita and her husband David.They had a friend, Garywho came along with his camper truck.Thus the two vehicles to carry stuff.They live in Fairbanks which is a 4 hour drive to either end of the start of Highway.Our problem is we are in Anchorage and it is a 4 hour drive from Cantwell at the western end of highway the highway at the old roadhouse of Paxson. It is a 6 hour drive to Paxson from Anchorage on the eastern end.Whatever, we have wanted to do this ride on bicycles for years. Here was a chance for a supported ride with friends.
Hence we drove each in our individual car for 250 miles (400 km) to Paxson, left her car in a gravel pit beside the road, and we drove the 4 hours 134 miles (215 km) to Cantwell, where we met the Irvings and camped a few miles in beside Joe Lake. Camping is awesome along the road with pullouts and creeks and lakes and views all along.
Thus we rode for three days and it was great riding, gravel a fair amount of up and down as the road parallels the mountains and lots of stream and river crossings, (all bridged).
Cars are interesting as some would stop or at least slow down so as we did not eat their dust, but several did not bother to slow and just flew by, us coughing in the dust. People are weird. But for the most part not much traffic, 3-4 hour maybe.
The heart I am not used to and it was clear and sunny hence the wondrous views. But the second day we were stopping behind any little tree for shade, and drinking massive amounts of water. The last day, on the last 20 miles (32 km) I just had to put my head down, and grind it out. For me, it was ridiculously hot in the upper 80’s and lo 90’s (29 to 35 C)
Denali Highway
Drinking lots of fluids was a requirement
Camp number 2 of 3
Mount Deborah and Susitna River (rises 10,000 feet above river (3000 meters))
Wildlife along the numerous lakes.
It was a kick seeing the hundreds of kettle lakes from old glaciers and riding the eskers from old glacier moraines.
Riding the Esker
Bald Eagle and view
Mt. Hayes, Moffett, and Shand
Basically it was a treat to be back on the bike. Sometimes I forget how awesome it can be just cruising along, good friends, camping, enjoying life.
We got to our car at Paxson, departed our friends to return drive the highway for the third time. Had a most wonderful camp near McClaren Summit with a sunset making the kettle lakes brilliant orange. Unfortunately, I could not get my lazy body out of sleeping bag at midnight for a decent photo.
Of course the ride was eventful with a flat tire requiring a 20 mile return drive to repair as cannot trust the modern emergency donut tires, put in cars. Only extended the drive home by 3.5 hours. Amazing trip.
To paraphrase Joseph Campbell, sometimes we must be willing to get rid of the trip we’ve planned so as to have the trip that is waiting for us.
And so as you may have detected I was quite disappointed in leaving the trip. I was depressed at my body failing, depressed at my thoughts. I was making up excuses blaming lots of things, feeling I had been abandoned not only by me but others, of which none was true and I knew it, but being human was trying to place blame anywhere but me. The above quote came from a dear friend who wrote me and it made me realize we do not always know our path, but it is our path and the choices we make determine future paths. Not much reason to get upset over the natural flow of things.
Anyway I had a good time while the group was gone, and I was alone, and as noted usually I like being alone, but this time I was not prepared for it.
Jeanne had wanted me to come home as obviously the trip was over for me. But I felt I had come all this way there was something here. When Rien came in after injuring his shoulder he left soon as he wanted to get his shoulder checked at home in the Netherlands. He had good reason to get home. I felt good having once descended I was fine.
J. R. & Rien (their biking trip is done)
And I am so happy I stayed. Not only did I get a good trip bicycling up to Tatopani and return, but when the group returned the day after I returned, they immediately came to my room and checked on me. It was like I had never left the trip despite having skipped 16 of 24 days. We shared stories and compared notes. I felt a part. It felt good. Up until then I had been unable to listen to stories of the Mustang area, or even read their Facebook accounts, it hurt too much. But when they returned I wanted all their stories.
Turns out their stories included my episode at altitude, and having listened to them I realize I could not have gone on. It was a horrible decision but the right one to depart and descend. I was sick. Apparently not only could I not breath although my oxygen saturation was normal for that altitude(84%), but I could not walk a straight line heel to toe.
For a different viewpoint read Buck’s blog Buck’s blog not only is he a very good writer but his perspective is different which is often good. The one entitled high country riding is his version of my demise.
But a great dinner together and then people depart. The trip is over and a memory.
Final dinner (James, Chad, Michelle, Paul, Bridget, Buck, and J. R. ) ( left to right)
I was unable to get reservation for flights out until Friday night when setting up this trip, so have hung out in pokhara, as it is more pleasant than Kathmandu. Michelle, Chad, James, and Paul left Monday morning leaving Buck, Bridget and myself. Buck and Bridget left this morning Wednesday for a 8 day trek to Annapurna base camp.
Tuesday Bridget, buck and I did a great trek up to world heritage site of world peace Buddhist stupa,which was great and impressive. Glad we had seen Junga the night before, as he said we could take a boat across lake and trek rather than taxi in car around and up (Junga was our bike guide on the trip) we left about 8:30 am but still sweat rolled off us as we ascended through the jungle. It seems there are no flat trails here.
Pokhara world peace stupaAlways rulesDepart pokhara on boat taxiFollowing the locals
Talking with Jeanne today. (Wednesday) we were reviewing my schedule and realized I leave Thursday nite not Friday nite. Am very glad I do not schedule tight connections as I would have shown up Friday night at Kathmandu airport and discovered my flight left the night before.
Met a fellow Anchorage traveller this am, got a haircut, tried to find glaucoma medicines at pharamcies here but that seems a first world medicine and no one had any medicines for it here. Alas. I must go back and pay first world prices.
And so it has again been a grand adventure. The future has moved into the present and the present has moved into the past. It is a constant ongoing process, never ending.
Buddha at world peace stupaWalking streets of PokharaView from lunch spot of main tourist street Pokhara (well through all those wires)
Interesting couple of days. Mentally and physically. Hopefully I have not bitten off more than I can chew. My permit goes as far as Jomsom at the upper end of road on this side of Annapurna circuit. Jeanne and I trekked in from Pokhara in 1992 in just over a week, hitchhiking the road out of Pokhara with construction trucks. But only rode maybe 10-15 kilometers. Now there is a road, all the way to Jomsom, but before Tatopani it winds to the west and away from main trekking routes which are more direct. The road connects with trekking routes at Tatopani and both road and trail then wind up through the Kali Gandaki (one of the deepest canyons in world if you consider on one side is Annapurna I and the other is Daulagiri, two of the 14 8000 meter peaks. We are at about 1000 meters here) ok I am impressed.
Left Pokhara ready to get out of town and face the world again. And it was incredible. Between keeping an eye on traffic, Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre were out in their glory. Rising nearly 6000 meters above town. (20000 feet) departing Pokhara
The town became less dense, then more rice fields, then what one would call country, as the road slowly rises at a 3-4 % grade. Then the hill began about 10 k out of town switchbacking at a doable 6-8% grade. I was back on bike, traffic was not bad and it was nice. Got to what I thought was top and stopped for break. Proprietor of store invited me in back and showed me view looking back down valley to Phewa lake and Pokhara. The lake still exists!looking back down valley to Pokhara
And a very pleasant fellow also at break stop asking this and that in reasonable English. Said he was Tibetan. When my break was done he wanted to show me some of the jewelry he had made. Have not seen any hawkers of wares as in past visits. Without being forcefull he pulled out pieces telling me about each one. Some were real turquoise from Tibet others plastic he pointed out. Had well over a hundred pieces just thrown in a bag. Ok I confess I bought one!
Then back in bike, But after only a kilometer road again went up, rising another 250 meters totaling thus far at 950 meters of climbing (3100 feet) in 20 kilometer (12 miles).
Stopped at top for lunch. Dahl baht again. (Rice and lentils, and eaten at 90% of Nepali meals.). Very pleasant people particularly one who was asking in reasonable English where I was from and pleasantries. Engaging several other people in restaurant in conversation. Turns out she is Tibetan but was born here in Nepal. Her mother came here in 1962. She has a small business selling jewelry she has made. After I finish eating she would like to show me some, and she wanders off. I finished eating and she returned and directed me to table out front where she had a bag which she began pulling out necklaces, beads, charms, and I could not tell little difference from the stuff seen a few kilometers badck. I began my departure but she said I should buy something as that is how she lives. I just left without buying anything but lunch.
Then the descent back and forth and the road surface is more torn up. Got to bottom then some small up and down but getting quite hot now. And the road began to climb again, nothing serious but the heat in the high 80s (high 20s C) with high humidity was killing me. Even though only about 2 pm I began looking for a place to stay. The road here though is not part of tourist route other than buses and taxis coming back from trekking and only driving through. Basically I was alone amongst thousands around me who had their own lives to lead. Passed one hotel but did not look promising. Onward and upward finally reaching Kusma some 62 kilometers from pokhara.
Found only one hotel in the somewhat large town (guessing 10000 people) and pulled in. Several women and girls sitting around lobby and had to wake up fellow sleeping on couch. Yes they had room (building was 6 stories tall) he called his son from somewhere and he appeared to take me to second floor (third by U.S. counting) it was fine although a bit dirty. I have my sleeping sheet. And a overhead fan. I laid down and let the fan blow with the window open as sweat continued to roil off me. I do not do humidity
Finally figured I best walk about town. Not a single westerner to seen which is interesting having been several weeks in the thick of tourism.
Back for dinner about 6 but told to come back promptly at 7 for dinner. No worries back at 7 enjoy a beer but by 8 still no food and no one in kitchen. I seem the only person in hotel other than family. About 8 the fellow comes over and asked if I would like dinner tonight? Yes please and his son and another go into kitchen and begin serving up food. Dahl baht.
Morning and breakfast at 7. I ask for black coffee and get a pot of milk coffee. He says will be 15-20 minutes before cook arrives. About 7:50 his son arrives and goes into kitchen. 8:15 he comes out and asks what I would like. I order scrambled eggs and toast. About 9 a plate of eggs wrapped around the bread arrives. I ask for a receipt for hotel bill and that took another 45 minutes as he itemized each meal, beer etc so much for leaving early and avoiding the heat.
Descent to 800 meters elevation (200 lower than Pokhara) and entered the Kali Gandaki river drainage). The road continues to deteriorate. Thought Tatopani would be too far today but Beni only 20 kilometers. It is a holiday of some sort and every store was closed and the few hotels also boarded up. And people out walking in their finest outfits. The normal red tika worn by women was a full on red rice pasted all over forehead of everyone, men and women, and all had some grass sticking out of hair. I felt like it was Christmas holidays back in states except without commercial aspects. Later I learned the holiday is 5 days long and this is day 3. A Hindu holiday as this is Hindu country.
Some kids enamored with my bike said Tatopani would be a easy 3 hours for me. Guide map says it is a 5 hour walk and I thought hmmm maybe I could do that. Another 25 kilometers and only 11 in the morning. But the heat was kicking in. I stopped to eat and was feeling a bit down so thought maybe I am tougher than I thought and ordered a soda instead of mineral water with the Dahl baht.lunch time
Generally I am tough but not tough enough for a soda. It did me in and I was miserable, having to exit the road once to evacuate the system. Something I have not had to do once on this trip. Felt better but heat and humidity back. (This is jungle after all)
The road is now a mud fest. With puddles the entire width. I rode one puddle and was hub deep. Waterfalls flowing. Had to help push one car which was stuck in mud. Decided I would not make Tatopani, and kept looking at map for potential villages with hotel. One looked promising but on arrival only one house and a boarded up hotel. Guess it will be Tatopani in 8 kilometers. A major creek crossing, fast current and looked two feet deep. Looked dangerous by foot, and no way to ride a hike through that current, even by vehicle it looked precarious. Found some logs a hundred yards upstream which allowed a rather wet dicey crossing. Figured I would make Tatopani as only 8 kilometers away. bridge out over fast flowing creekalternate crossing for bikes & pedestrians
Then a village of Tiplyang appeared although first two hotels were boarded up. Decided ok I can do this but as walking up hill out of town the Namaste guest house appears. I just go in and here I am.
namaste guest house room. Tiplyang(200 rupees $2.00)Laid in bed for an hour thinking of altitude sickness and if you cannot recover in 10 minutes something is wrong. Here it is the heat and humidity getting me. I was on the bed for over an hour, finally forcing myself up to walk through town. That took 5 minutes of which 2 was watching a volleyball game. Back to hotel and invited to watch dinner preparations. It appeared I was the only guest and definitely only westerner. Tiplyang holiday volleyball and swing
Wow despite the language gap, I got a lesson in cooking. Had bananas as appetizers with a bread I equated to eskimo doughnuts. Hearty! And good!
spice grinderkitchen counter ( silver bowl covers rock so chickens do not go there) Grind the garlic and I believe it is cardamom on rock. Then grind garlic, peanuts, salt and a few peppers. Peel potatoes and stir fry with fresh cut onions. Oh my gosh it was amazing. Definitely not the fastidiousness of western cooking, then time to eat. The lentils and rice appear from pressure cookers and enjoy. Another meal of Dahl baht. Everyone is different, and I refer to the Dahl baht.
Ok morning and on to Tatopani. Maya here tells me it is expensive. Here in Tiplyang I have found the Nepal I remember. No menus, smokey kitchens, simplicity beyond simplicity.
But pondering return. The group comes into Tatopani Saturday eve and then jeep to Pokhara. The idea of a jeep ride out of here does not entice me. Think I will ride out at least until road is better, but then things get very crowded. Maybe ride all the way back but then some climbs. Decisions decisions.
And the adventure continues. Now Friday day 3 at Tatopani. Jomsom is 56 kilometers, which is as far as my permit goes, but not feeling the need. Just enjoying the time although might be a bit easier if I had a set schedule. I keep thinking of Paul’s statement: it had been shown one loses IQ points on vacation.
Yesterday went for a nice trek up the canyon wall. Map said a good viewpoint of Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, and Annapurna South. Hotel owner said could not see Dhaulagiri but nice views and a good waterfall. Did not matter as clouds encased the high mountains anyway. I did try taking butterfly pictures with the iPhone. Not very successful. That is price of going minimalist, I cannot carry bigger camera.Tatopani room view oranges and Nilgiri (6940 meters)(22769feet)
Awoke this morning and magnificent view of Nilgiri from lying in bed. Maybe not a good day to return to Pokhara. Can ride to Beni in morning and catch a bus from there. Thus I find myself sitting beside road listening to roar of river, motorbikes, jeeps, cars, buses, and trucks go by.
The road continues with technical mountain biking, finding a route through rocks, puddles, creeks, and traffic. Traffic definitely adds a dimension to route finding.
As I ride I have come to appreciate the horns. Nice to know something is near and do not swerve. Funny as in the states horn is not nice, as obnoxious, and one knows they are there, but here cannot always here as so much else going on. Also back home one gets the feeling when someone honks they are saying get out of my way. Not so here, but to let you know they are there. Each has an equal right.
Pushed upward until my demons were saying why are you doing this? I was pondering why is it I am always the slow one (ok I am alone so who is slow). Why do I do these trips, what is the point? And the questions go on. Self doubts!
Then finally turned around having climbed about 500 meters in 9 kilometer, after seeing the narrow portion of Kali Gandaki gorge. 4 kilometer to Ghana and I could get a stamp on my permit. Whooppee skippee! I turned around then on way down at a narrow section of road police had come out to direct traffic. There was definite congestion where a stream was running down the road and vehicles were having a hard time climbing. Was talking with some Israeli trekkers on bus from Jomsom, who as I was cleared to ride through they said. “Keep living my dream”. Words again can mean a lot. Suddenly I felt better.
And I made it through the very rocky section, sliding and dropping off rocks as it was a major stream flowing down the 15% slope. And about a hundred people filming it as buses disgorged passengers to await their buses turn to climb or descend.
Talked with a couple from India who are taking a three week vacation to motorcycle this route to Muktinath at the edge of Mustang area. They said it far rougher than they expected. I am amazed at abilities of the motorcycle riders. And that does not mention the passenger of which there is almost always one.
Apparently since the road went on this has become a motorcycle vacation destination. And they stop me to say they are amazed at what I am doing. There is always somebody tougher out there.
Descent from Tatopani to Beni was great but muddy. Left same time as jeep with trekkers from Victoria, Canada. We arrived Beni same time but I had stopped and taken a lot of pictures. Arrived Pokhara covered in mud.
And made me feel good when this morning as I left Trekkers hotel, the owner and daughter came out to say goodbye. And stopped by Nepali guest house in Tiplyang and Maya thanked me for stopping by and telling stories of time in Tatopani.
Thus I think I must post this. Internet is acting weird. One time says ready next it discombobulated Sorry if not finished. But will have to correct after. Writing on an iPhone is a pain.
Ok pokhara. Another tourist town but I have become part of hotel here. Eat breakfast lunch dinner here they know what I want and is pleasant. Have just been chilling out. Did ride up to world heritage site yesterday eve but only the parking lot. Did not walk last hundred or so meters to the world peace stupa. Just a nice bike ride. Hoping for the great views of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna range but very cloudy and of course hazy. Maybe on return. Has been wonderful to just do nothing, just relax. Been thinking if this article written in 2011 about Nepal tourism. Bad things about Nepal tourism. It is true and this is a developing nation undergoing major upheaval. The government changes every 9 months and never can be established to actually see things through. But as in most places the people are separate from the government and only suffer the consequences. ( How many people actually got to decide whether Clinton or Trump would run for president of the U. S.?) We all eke out a living doing the best we can given our circumstances.
Yesterday planned on riding to stupa but was told I needed a blood pressure for doctor who signed my insurance form that I had altitude sickness. (I never saw the doc, the hotel just took form to hospital and it was filled out. Should have done it in Manang at Himalayan rescue clinic as would have only cost $45, but who pays that much for a doctor visit? Cost 10000 rupees for doc here in Pokhara, about a hundred dollars). But was told to rest after breakfast as relaxation needed for BP. Ok time went by and time for lunch but needed to rest again and hotel would take me. They wanted to know why I had not ridden to stupa. About 2 the proprietor of hotel said he had neck pain and would have to wait a bit longer. About 3:30 he said time to go but we were taking the moped. What happened to the relaxation? He put on his helmet and off we went I thought to hospital for BP. (Passengers do not wear helmets). We drove maybe a kilometer to a pharmacy where blood pressure taken. I could have walked there in 15 minutes. The hotel said they would notify the doctor my BP was normal. Cost 100 rupees as apparently normal to pay for a blood pressure. Different worlds. After I went for bike ride and felt great.
Now awaiting permit for Annapurna circuit as coming down from manang closed out my Annapurna and mustang permits which cost about $575. Hence the insurance. This is a solo unguided permit and I will be self supported. Glad I brought a little bit of packs to carry stuff. It will be a minimalist trip though.
creek coming into lake fisherman avoiding the discarded water bottles and trashphewa lakehit dog ice cream shopindian dinner similar to dahl baht but rotti instead of riceoutskirts of pokhara
And so it goes. I figure I will post this as have Internet now and probably none ( or at least half decent) until I return in a week. Packed up, amazing how little one really needs, but we shall see in a week. I realize I may not have needed the trekking permit because trekking does not start until tatopani, 75 kilometers up the road. Used to be one started in pokhara.
The road has made a difference the locals can easier move about now but the trekkers do not like it. Ruins the “pristine” trekking Nepal was famous for. Alas progress comes at a price. They are trying to build trekking trails apart from the road, but amenities are now available.
Prices are similar to western prices for commodities. Not once have I seen or heard any bargaining, although I did hear one lady get mad when she found a north face jacket for more money than in the states. Hotels are still somewhat cheap. I am paying $20 for this place which is nice. In the mountains I paid $2.00. But one is expected to eat at hotel which is where the money is made meals are $7 to $10. Beer is about $5 a bottle but 500 ml. bottles.
Ok arose yesterday morn packed and ready, but a bit of a headache. Weird as rest day yesterday and this headache was a bit different but whatever. Took a diamox for potential altitude sickness although feeling no ill effects. Off we went through the alleys and narrow paths between buildings and began climbing. Up up and up. Rose 300 meters (about a thousand feet) in 5 kilometers: in other words we all pushed a lot. I did practice carrying bike which I had porters build me a special head strap for the bike.
Then got to ride intermittantly, but I began to slow and my demons began to emerge in my thoughts. Why am I doing this? What the heck is the use of this. I mentioned the thoughts to Bridget who I was walking with and she agreed. We said we felt we just wanted to get this trip over and two weeks later begin planning something more horrendous. Paul though said it has been proven that when one goes on vacation one loses several IQ points. Oh the human mind. crossing Marshyangdi
But I began to slow and cough more. I had been coughing at night, blaming it on riding in Kathmandu pollution. (Horrible and dumb to not wear a mask) at least it was green and not red. But it worsened and I was slowing more. Once Junga came back and offered to push my bike. Normally I would resent that, but I gladly accepted. Then I pushed over some very rideable fun single track. Then climbed and slowly 7.5 hours after leaving and 15 kilometers came near Thorong Phedi one of the highest camps before the pass. Paul came down and pushed my bike. I was done in but then we all were. I went inside building and all our group face down on table.
I rested a bit, helped the porters put up tents climbed in and laid out futzing with gear. After about 45 min call came for soup ready and I began to climb out of tent trying to put on shoes which were proving troublesome. I had one on and Buck came over saying he had a doc with him to just check on me. I sat there and gave my story he said normally one should be breathing more normal after 10 minutes rest. I was as exhausted as just after the ride and breathing at 36 per minute. He said my lips were a bit blue. I finally got my other shoe on and he had me walk heel toe straight line which I definitely had trouble with. He recommended I go down
I sort of expected this because I felt miserable, but the words kicked me. Buck asked Kami about delays and he said not really possible. Sometimes I hate commercial trips, no room for change. The decision was mine: I asked about in the morning as 4:15 and dark at 6:30. Doc said decision mine but that would be bad as altitude sickness can progress rapidly especially at night. Basically I could die overnight.
I asked for help from the group and again words even the simplest and not profound words sometimes have the most meaning. Michelle said “I would rather have you alive than dead”
I thought ok then said oh this will be a great downhill ride. Immediately the doc, Buck, and Kami said absolutly not. A porter would push my bike carry my duffle bag and his stuff, and probably be out of a job when we got down.
Thus I threw gear together as now 4:15 and time to go. I felt lousy mentally and physically. Tears were held back amongst many of us. My planned Nepal trip was over.
Only maybe 50 meters done and Michelle yelled down something and all I could do was barely raise my trekking pole in acknowledgement. I was exhausted and starting a 15 kilometer trek which I had just come up. 2 hours til dark.
rakees pushing my bike abd carrying my load plus husBut amazing every step down felt better. Headache had worsened during the day and still very painful and continuing to hack up a lung, but every meter down felt good. By 7 pm we had made about 9 k and was very dark. Passed s hotel still open and I decided best to stop. We got some rooms and I felt a bit better. I was still coughing but much less, and headache diminished.
Morning came and began the steep descent into Manang and I felt good but tired. Gangapurna rises above us 3000 meters above with its magnificent hanging glaciers, ridges, icefalls with Annapurna 4 just to the north. Guess I won’t see Annapurna 1 this trip.
trek outThen as we descended going below 4000 meters I realized I was feeling a lot better, but legs were quite sore. Also the morning rush of trekkers was coming up; questioning why I was going backward. ( the circuit is usually done in a counterclockwise direction). I began to now realize I was on a new trip. It is over two weeks before flight home. Why rush home just because I have no plan here.
Rakees ( my porter) speaks only a few words of English so was difficult to figure out anything. But we managed. I was thinking riding back to besishahar where we started, but had a big bag, porter and exhausted legs to deal with. A couple from Norway suggested a jeep out (there is a road now, which we rode in) duh but I had ridden 15 kilometers at the start in jeep and it was wild, and took 4 hours. This is over 85 kilometers and well I will just say scary.
Rakees immediately went to find jeep on arrival, but not available. Whew. I was already beat and might like a rest day. He found one available for tomorrow at 7 am. Will take all day and be prepared to bounce, sway, and get thrown around in an overcrowded vehicle he motioned. Sign me up.
Apparently in peak season in about 3 weeks a thousand people a day cross Thorong la and 1 a day will develop altitude sickness.
Went to Himalayan rescue clinic just to check in. Talked with them and numerous others and one generally never sleeps more the 500 meters higher than night before. We had been doing a thousand.
Turns out the doc yesterday was just a trekker (but also a doc) but when I told story they verified good decisions. I attended the altitude lecture given by the docs at Himalayan rescue center. Great lecture and again learned a lot. They said would probably be ok to hang around here and hike and enjoy Manang but going lower would also be a good decision. These mountains have been around for 500 million years and will probably be around for quite a while. I can return.
We arrived Chame somewhat early about 2 pm. Was 17 kilometer but 840 meters of hard climbing. My GPS showed only 13 kilometer for the day. Today though, I found the setting for pause when stopped. It was set at 5.4 kilometers an hour, a normal walking pace. Hence anything less did not register. We walked a lot and it was definitely slow walking. I changed it to 1 km/ hr today and will drop it further.
Kami our lead guide was unable to find a camping place so we had to stay in hotel. It filled up but our rooms were on the street away from hotel commons and restaurant so somewhat quiet.
Inns in Nepal have progressed from sleeping in a big communal room with smoke stack stopping before exiting roof. Now own room or shared with one other. Still no heat but a sheet and comforter. 1 light and 1 plug in room. Rein and I both worried about the cleanliness of sheets and decided on our sleeping bags. But by morn I only had my sleeping bag over me and I was all over the bed.
Paul and I went with one of Sherpas to public free hot spring and had a great bath with some of locals. We went almost as soon as arrival because it would take a while for porters to make it with our gear. Just went in water with bike pants, but it was still warm and although deep in canyon sun still up.
Others wanted to wait for gear and clothes and when they went a local family had taken over and refused them entry.
Wifi available for 150 rupees (about$1.50) and for duration of stay. Most place are only for an hour. And the owner said he paid extra for good wifi his wifi is better than most which often does not work, especially when numerous people sign on. And this was 150 rupees for the duration of stay, usually only an hour. So I signed on and gushed out that last missive.
But a bit chilled later as cooling off now that we are gaining elevation. Chame at 2745 (9000 ft). My gear finally arrived and we had a great dinner. Momo’s, green beans, peeled vegetable salad, sardines in a tomato sauce, fried potatoes, and boiled potatoes. Seems I am only one who likes sardines but all thought the meal great and finished off with a banana pie.
Kami found a jeep to take kitchen staff and our gear to Manang, a distance of 29 kilometer. That way we would have our gear otherwise we would have to stop part way and cut into our rest day.
They left in the jeep, the remaining porters began trekking with 10-15 kilogram loads. And we cyclists began ascending. View of Annapurna II above us and the Marshyangdi below us. The road continues as a jeep track with some big drop offs.
But entered pine tree forest and I remembered bits and pieces of the trip in 1988. The venders along road with Nepal stuff. And topped out a steep hill with road cut in side of Clif and a long valley. We got almost 10 kilometers of rideable road. marsgyandi valley. annapurna II above
Arrived Manang and all excited about a rest day. Acclimate to the 3540 meter altitude (11700 feet) before the two day push to pass at 5460 meter. (17600).
Rest day yahoo. All tired dirty. Showers or porters brought us all pans of hot water for cleaning, some washed their own laundry, I gave mine to hotel got 700 rupees ($7.00)
And we are camping in the cabbage patch behind a restaurant. Our cooks cook our meals in shed or on ground outside.
Rained hard this morning and was very humid. Expected it to be cooler but warm 15-25 (55-75f).
And bring a rest day one does not want to lose what one has gained so Kami took us on a short trek this morn up to gangapurna glacier overlook, about 5 k.
Worked on bikes I think I have generator fixed. And derailleur cleaned as it has been giving me grief. Paul bled his brakes as the tiny air bubbles will expand at altitude. Mine seem ok. It is the engine which is problem.
Wifi is a bit slow here and may be for some time. One is always surprisedsuffice it to say Nepal is incredible as ever. Manang a gorgeous village sitting below Annapurna III and IV, and Ganggapurna, Tulicho further up the valley. The locals say Nepal mountain do not start until 7000 meters the rest are foothills. I will leave it at this for now as more things to do. break and rest timelocals bringing in the fields
Then as we descended going below 4000 meters I realized I was feeling a lot better, but legs were quite sore. Also the morning rush of trekkers was coming up; questioning why I was going backward. ( the circuit is usually done in a counterclockwise direction). I began to now realize I was on a new trip. It is over two weeks before flight home. Why rush home just because I have no plan here. 
jrpatee 