Halifax Nova Scotia

Posted on September 29, 2026September 29, 2026 by J. R. Patee

Realism is a bad word

I see no line between the imaginary and the real”

Franco Fellini

Again delightful, arriving a bit late into Halifax, but acceptable. Apparently when the Canadian railway was built across Canada, in approximately 1876, the journey took 6 days. Now it takes 8, due to freight traffic and such. But it is the journey not the speed that counts.

And again we have discovered some people think farther ahead than we do. All hotels were either booked or ridiculously expensive. Finally found one 15 kilometers out of town, and figured just Lyft ride. Seems we had been misled with information that this was the quiet time of year. Apparently busier than ever. Thoughts are crowds are due to geopolitical tensions, Canadians are not traveling into the United States and traveling in their own country more, and the same for European traveler’s who are spending more time in Canada. One hotel owner told us she has been saying “only two more weeks, until it is quiet,” For six weeks now, and it is continuing, as she said busy until at least thanksgiving.

Met with daughter of the friends we saw in Vancouver, who has started college here in Halifax. Turns out Halifax is much larger than we thought, with a population of about 550,000. There are 5-6 universities here and the city is growing. But as noted it is the only port on the eastern seaboard of Canada. Some of the difficulties with hotel rooms are the numbers of construction workers.

Dinner lobster poutine. (Poutine is a Canadian comfort food of French fries covered in gravy, in this case no gravy but lobster sauce)

Lyft rides turn out to, be cheap transport, cheaper than at home. Had to Lyft to hotel then again to airport to get rental car. Airport is some 25 kilometers from town and still only about $20.

Then off to find some friends from Alaska, who have been touring about in their van, they were leaving it at a storage facility for the winter to return next summer, and we gave them a ride back to airport. Then an afternoon of walking downtown Halifax. Halifax has a wonderful boardwalk along the water front and we cruised there.

The maritime museum was great with primary exhibits on the explosion of 1917 which destroyed downtown Halifax and killed over 2000 people. The largest explosion ever created by humans, until a larger one was done in 1945. Here in 1917 two ships collided, one heavily loaded with explosives for the war effort.

Then the Titanic exhibit, bringing up the modern social dilemmas of technology, class, and religion. The survivors were taken to New York City as too much ice to navigate easily to Halifax, where the deceased were taken, and numerous were buried here.

Walked about perusing several potential restaurants, not finding anything overly enticing, finally returning to the harbor boardwalk and an oyster bar, which turned out to be great choice.

Then on to discover Nova Scotia, with first stop the most popular tourist site – Peggy’s cove, a tiny cove amongst the rocks of ocean shore. Seemed a last ditch place to me with room for maybe 6 boats. But a tiny community has been built around the area and it is quite scenic. They are not afraid of color. The two parking lots, quite full each were probably 5 times the size of the cove.

Onward to Lunenburg, an old ship building port. Interesting town very much a tourist town, but not overwhelming. One easily picks up the sense of this is a Coastal town with a rich history, and the vibe is definitely ocean, whether one works on the ocean or just lives near it. We again went to the maritime museum which showed a lot of various boats transporting ocean goods, or fishing. The lobster demonstration and displays were very informative, learning different fishing techniques than I knew of before.

And the Lunenburg film festival going on. Decided instead of cruising on just driving, we would stay extra day here and a good decision, not only for museum but films, and great seafood restaurants.

Watched documentary film shorts, one of which stood out. A fellow went to Canada Supreme Court saying he did not have to have a mowed lawn in front of his house, as the lawn monoculture was killing off insects and plant variety. He won. The other was a feature film entitled “run terry run” about Terry Fox, a teenager who loved running but at age 18 developed cancer in his knee requiring amputation. After some recovery time he set off to run across Canada raising money for cancer, at age 21, running the equivalent of a marathon a day. He hoped to raise one million dollars, but when he died of lung cancer 4 months after he started, 24 million had been raised, and the current amount raised in terry fox foundation is a billion dollars. A legend in Canada and an inspiration.

Terry’s Story

And so sitting on this plane transporting us back across Canada, and on to alaska.

Live lobsters for sale in Halifax airport

Towards the end of this journey

Posted on September 24, 2026 by J. R. Patee

Don’t try to lessen yourself for the world; let the world catch up to you. Beyoncé Knowles

Sitting here on the train a couple hours to go, to reach Halifax, the eastern end of our train journey is it the end of the journey, or just the beginning of another journey, or a continuation of the same journey.? The purpose of this trip was to take the train across Canada, and we have nearly succeeded.

The train has been good seeing the country along the way, as opposed to just flying over, skipping massive amounts. But we are still skipping much. Some people I suspect have lived in these areas and still are exploring. Where does one draw the line. Talking with a newly retired couple here on train, they bought a motor home and traveling Canada, unfortunately they ran out of time, having to get to Halifax for winter, they parked the home in Alberta, and are on the train, will continue next summer.

Train left Montreal and crossed the St.Lawrence river which is huge. Always interesting to see locks moving ocean vessels about.

Locks around upper st. Lawrence into Lake Ontario. And the Great Lakes.

As noted we did not have a bunk, but traveling coach and wondering what that would bring. Had our takeout leftovers from night before Indian food. Grabbed some utensils, wooden as railroad and Canada are trying to get away from plastic. Then I fell asleep, awakening occasionally to find Jeanne reading, unable to sleep, chairs reclined and foot rests came up, all without pressing into neighbors. Although far from perfect was certainly comfortable, Jeanne just needed a midnight snack and snack bar was closed.

Awoke to hills with a river flowing through rising mists. Mornings on trains seem very special, memories of Nuulabar desert of Australia, racing kangaroos against the rising sun, coming into glacier park area at dawn, mists on the river,

And now an hour out of Halifax and more houses, lots of recreational boats. What now?.

Montreal

Posted on September 23, 2026 by J. R. Patee

You need to let the little things that would ordinarily bore you suddenly thrill you

Andy Warhol

Arrived central train station Montreal 10 minutes late due to a freight train we had to follow for a bit, but all good. A modern train. The train carriage we travelled from Vancouver was built in 1954, thus a bit dated. Walked the kilometer to the Moxie hotel, a delightful place reminding me of the Yotel series of hotels. The room is like living in a piece of artwork. Simplicity, colors,

Found a Thai restaurant nearby and were not disappointed. Talking to the waiter about politics and always interesting when people are listening to each other. After we just wandered about downtown going through some interesting neighborhoods, nothing scary or weird, but entertainment, pedestrian only streets, and as with Vancouver and Toronto separated bike lines, although no scooters here zipping precariously in amongst everything. Traffic is quite reasonable

Then our day in Montreal, always fun to figure out a new city. We are no longer on a tour thus are responsible for ourselves. Montreal appears initially very different from Toronto, Vancouver or other cities, as one would expect. Jeanne arranged a walking tour and we walked to find it, again wondering what it would bring. Each city tour thus far we have expected little and thought it hokey, but then it turns out great. And this one the same. Again it being the personal and unsanitized stories which make it interesting. Our guide Jessie did clarify we should always fact check things.

Montreal was first established in 1642 (after the Iroquois had lived here for centuries) by a female nurse accompanied by a military fellow who came along to protect the little lady, although he certainly extended his reach further out. The history of course intertwines with the United States, but generally the future Canadians were not that keen on slavery, and the French and British have always had a tumultuous relationship, hence architecture and time periods sometimes clash.

Old alleyway now covered as part of underground

Jessie did mention the trifecta of false advertising from Montreal.

It has a large mountain – well there is a hill nearby 250 meters in height which they call a mountain. Jeanne and I went up it as within a parkland, designed by the same fellow who did Central Park in New York City.
Montreal has the largest underground network of a city in North America. apparently 17 kilometers, allowing people to move about in the downtown area without going out into the weather. But as Jessie said about half of it is above ground, just enclosed, and it is not used much as everywhere looks very similar. As he said most Montreal people would rather face the weather and know where they are, than be comfortable and not know where you are.
And I completely forgot the third.

Fascinating to see the variety of architecture in the international quarter ranging from 1700 to modern steel and glass, with the Notre Dame cathedral along one area with a French statue snubbing the English buildings and the English statue snubbing the French. Apparently the French thought the English lived only to make money and had no concept of living life. The Notre Dame cathedral structure was built in 30 years, but the interior took 100 with its individual wood carvings, glass work.

We walked and turns out we walked the places we walked the night before, just this time we got explanations. Arts district, Chinatown, financial, etc. Montreal has quite an art community as Jessie noted because it is a cheaper city than other Canadian cities. The arts area is one of the most condensed art areas in the world, with sometimes 60-80 venues within a city block. Every year the city hosts a building mural competition, inviting top mural artists from around the world.

We had received a note from our rail tour company saying if we were traveling through Montreal allow time as the world road racing championships were going to be taking place. They did not specify what, but turns out bicycling, and many in town not pleased as it shuts down major portions of town. As Jessie said you have to be careful because if you get inside a circle there can often be no way out until race over. We came across the time trial event but there were temporary bridges over the 4-6 lanes of roadway.

Our goal after the walking tour was to head to the Royal Park and Mount Royal. It took a bit of wandering about as the race start and finish were at the base so we had to extend our walk quite a ways, but finally headed up trying this and that trail, whenever there was a choice of up, flat or down we chose up. Nice trails with occasional lookouts over various directions in the city and over the St Lawrence river. Ended up hiking the day at about 12 kilometers (7 miles)

Montreal looking east st Lawrence river, 1976 Olympic venue

When we descended and arrived at the city again (an abrupt divide) we were hungry, having had breakfast many hours before back at hotel. Jeanne wanted Vietnamese and I wanted Indian, thus we googled it for restaurants nearby. I won at 500 meters whereas Jeanne was 800 meters. A wondrous meal and walk the last kilometers back to hotel. Another wondrous day wandering a wonderous city.

Toronto

Posted on September 21, 2026September 21, 2026 by J. R. Patee

To appreciate the beauty of a snowflake, it is necessary to stand out in the cold. Aristotle

Arrived 6 hours late into Toronto , no problem, not that many freight trains through Ontario, which allowed us to catch up time. Last day felt good enough to go to dining car and meet other folks for a short bit.

Arrived and had looked at the hotel and according to map navigation was 700 meters walk across street and around corner. Along the way, through a delightful train station stopped at ticket office to see if we could upgrade to a sleeper Montreal to Halifax. The agent was trying not to laugh, while explaining those bunks are reserved 6 months to a year ahead. I guess we remain in just coach seats, for the 25 hour ride.

Our. 6th floor view of union station (actually about 10th floor but 6th of guest rooms

Stepped out of the grand hall into the streets of Toronto, and there in front of us was a huge building extending the entire block and upward. I checked Maps again and it said go across street walk around corner to other side of building and there was hotel. We opted to walk across the 7 lanes of traffic, which all traffic stopped, and walked in the front door, nearly tried checking into the restaurant, as could not find reception or check in. Finally in the nook reception, then took a while to figure out elevators (10 of them). Punch in “guest rooms”, then floor #, then swipe room card, then await elevator assignment. What is a kid who wants to hit all the numbers supposed to do? To go down one repeats the operation making sure you go to lobby.

We basically knew very little of Toronto, I mentioned there were two things I wanted to do, go up the CN tower, and go to beach on Lake Ontario. We knew not much else, but first thing in the morning, after the worst coffee ever in hotel room, moved on to our included tour of Toronto, which came with our tour package. Delightful,laughing character “Doug” was our driver guide. and he began with antidotes about various landmarks,, and historical figures. (Always nice to hear the local version as opposed to the official sanitized glorified one)

First stop though CN towers, which I did not realize were until about 2007 the tallest freestanding structure in the world . (Burj Khalifa, in Dubai, took the title then), now it is about 11th tallest in the world, although the viewing platform is only about 350 meters up of the 550 meter height.

I think it is funny I cannot go out on the glass floors, for whatever reason, I used to climb and exposure was not a problem but fhe glass floors I can’t seem to do. The. The boat guide told me the CN tower originally had a much larger area of glass but was never used. it was too expensive to remove so they just put carpet over most of it. I guess I did walk on the see through floor.

Then on to the market. We are talking food market and oh my. Incredible. Fish, beef, lamb, vegetables, on and on, in an unending variety. Jeanne though, although feeling good on departure was going down fast, and back in the van , Doug dropped her at the hotel, where, alas she fell sound asleep until my return hours later. Just tired, although slept well through the night. Must have been the poor breakfast at hotel restaurant and incredibly bad coffee available in room.

Then on to the island taxi, ferries, tours terminal. We boarded a tour boat to the barrier island a couple kilometers off from Toronto. Apparently used to be about 10,000 residents over there but a hurricane (yes hurricane in about 1920 wiped out most structures). It was rebuilt primarily with an eye to the people of Toronto. One island is wild, one has residences but the waitlist is some 50 years, and residences can only sell for original building prices. The biggest center island is, as our boat guide said like a Central Park. Primarily park land, although it does have a boat moorage on it, where you can live on a houseboat., of which none were extravagant.

Thus ended the tour, although crossing the pedestrian walkway a bike came through and Doug told him “hey red light for bikes”. The fellow turned and yelled back “it’s ok I am old”.

I told Jeanne I would get some Covid testing kits enroute home thus stopped at a drug store, picking up two. We were not convinced we were better and thought for sure we had Covid. Both Jeanne’s and my test were negative. Whew!

Asking Jeanne what she wanted for dinner, her response was Asian. Sort of leaves it open, but with numerous options. Found a hopefully good place called “dim sum king”, only a km away so walked, ended up in Chinese section of town and passed numerous good looking hole in the wall “Asian restaurants.”, finally arriving at DimSumKing on third floor and yea very good. Not exactly positive in our ordering as primarily Chinese although English subtitles and pictures, but awesome food.

Return hotel watched two old movies and slept great and slept in. Oh my. No decent coffee at hotel so somewhat difficult to begin day. They have coffee but some frothy thing which tasted bad. Headed across the street to food court in train station, variety to choose from, middle east, Thai, sushi, Japanese, Korean , noodles, Taco Bell, McDonald’s, chicken places, and of course Tim Hortons. I chose middle eastern. Jeanne chose Thai, but we had to get coffee from McDonald’s, which we consider some of the best coffee.

I have concluded the more you pay for a hotel the less you get. Ma Johnson in McCarthy was one of most expensive hotels ever and they did not even have electric plugs available in room. Alas !

After breakie (at noon) off to the Toronto aquarium) one of the best I have ever seen. Great exhibits, informative and moved people through without feeling overly crowded. Had a moving walkway through the below surface tanks you could just ride and enjoy, or get off anytime. I did learn how to sex a moon jellyfish and a shark. As noted quite informative.

Kelp forests are always relaxing to watch

Then told jeanne I would take her to what she missed yesterday on the islands, and took a water taxi across the center island. Delightful walk about and a short walk in the sand of Lake Ontario beach.

Dinner at the roundhouse below the CN tower. Roundhouse is a brewery built about the railroad roundhouse which formerly was used to redirect the engines to proper tracks.

Currently back on train moving on to Montreal, cruising along Lake Ontario, cruising at 150 km/hr

The Canadian part II

Posted on September 18, 2026 by J. R. Patee

Life is like a 10 speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use.

Charles m. Schultz

We left Saskatoon and noted the flats. I had thought Kansas and Nebraska were flat. The horizon just beckons you.

Illness continued, feeling sore, stiff, with a bit of cough. Felt not right to expose others so just stayed in room. If you are going to be sick being on the Canadian with Angela as a steward is not a bad options. Started feeling better yesterday and today feeling right up near good. Today we even ate meals in dining car on a table with table cloths and such finery. And the windows are bigger.

I, for some incongruous reason thought the trip ended yesterday. I had calculated us being almost 11 hours behind schedule and hence called our hotel to inform them we would be late on arrival. The clerk noted we had no reservation last night but did starting tonite. I checked and correct. Alas the 4 day trip I started on Monday was day 0. Tuesday was a full day 1. And I made the very rookie mistake of thinking once we left Winnipeg we were close. I forgot to look at map of Ontario. It is huge, larger than France and Spain combined

Thus this morning we awoke riding through wondrous forests with zillions of lakes. Almost none occupied. So pleasant to see remote areas, no cabins, no airplanes, an occasional canoe pulled up but for the most part forest and lakes. No cell coverage. Small towns, I suspect are work towns for railroad maybe 200-300 km (150 miles)apart. Then we turned south and an occasional cabin and recreational boats. Approaching Toronto

Overall. A delightful 103 hours.

The Canadian

Posted on September 16, 2026September 16, 2026 by J. R. Patee

I know not all that may be coming. But be it what it will. I’ll go to it laughing.

Herman Melville from “Moby Dick”

Train is good. Like Amtrak the freight trains own the tracks so passengers take a back seat and wait for the freight trains to pass. Left Vancouver 5 minutes late and promptly stopped for an hour to await two freight trains.

Our cabin bunks come down on left chairs move about

But when we were told of the Canadian and how it was much nicer, yes, very true. Not that Amtrak was bad, but mints on bed every night, food is better, cars are cleaner, windows clean, and our room is much roomier, although still quite tiny, but at least one can move around, and the ride seems smoother. I can set something down and mostly expect it to remain. And windows are washed.

As noted earlier in last blog our “tour company” said the walk from hotel to station was too far to walk, and but we risked it, 2.3 km (1 1/2 miles). No problem, dinner in diner of lamb shank, potato’s, and an incredible strawberry cheesecake, except that evening a cough we both had was getting worse, and muscles were quite sore, not as if we overexercised but stiff and sore all over. It worsened and we made decision to stay in room, hopefully not spreading it. Angela our attendant has made life bearable bringing menu and meals from dining car. Yesterday Jeanne had breakfast, poached eggs on toast with melon, and has brown potato’s. I had fried eggs to perfection,sausage, toast melon. All on our lap in our room.

The Canadian Rockies were amazing as expected and I did open door and look out left side windows in hallway at Mt Robson, one of the most spectacular Mountain View’s from a road. we did get off in Jasper and walked around for a bit in soaking up sunshine. The business area remains but the fires devastated the surrounding area, two years ago

Panorama of our 21cars and window washers

Currently sitting on a siding awaiting a freight train to pass. Saskatchewan is flat. I think a two story house would be good because then you would be highest thing around

Saskatchewan view train work vehicles getting ready to place new ties down.

Hence we continue onward I am feeling a bit better but jeanne is worse. Have kept the bunks in place and she is sleeping. Good!

Vancouver B.C.

Posted on September 14, 2026 by J. R. Patee

I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Douglas Adams

Arrived in the evening via bus from Seattle as apparently schedules do not allow as many trains to connect from Seattle to Vancouver as one would like. Customs was very easy, with nary a question other than what are we doing here and then she was getting excited about our trip. Caught a cab the few kilometers to hotel, being a Sheraton and rather fancy for us, but it is what the tour provided. 23rd floor and a nice view.

Then a bus tour about town, part of the overall tour we paid for. As expected nothing great but did provide a quick overview of highlights and history of the town. Stanley Park, Granville, Gastown, chinatown, cruise ship docks were shown and all was good. Had a driver who did impressions of famous people noted along the way, Frank Sinatra, Richard Attenborough, English, Scottish, Irish, and others.

A friends daughter, who is Canadian, has a restaurant here in Vancouver, and Jeanne had made reservations. “Nero Tondo” on Powell street. It has only two servings a night 5:30 and 7:30 and only one choice on menu. We needed a walk and decided to walk the 1 1/2 hour 5 k (3 mile). Jeanne had missed the text from a friend here in Vancouver who said do not walk down Powell Street. All went well in the business tourist area where our hotel is, and through the area of Gastown, also full of tourists, but when we crossed over to the east side it the “homeless” appeared. Was not a problem as we looked on, stepped over and around, pondering how people get to that condition, but they do for a variety of reasons, but it makes one sad they do not have the life we have, or it provides a glimpse of other sides of the spectrum of life we call civilization. Jeanne said if she was alone she would have called a cab, I said if I had known of this area I would not have chosen to walk. But all good with good people watching, although for us a bit depressing. But Vancouver does have a homeless problem, but as everywhere else the powers that be like to hide it.

Dinner itself was awesome, between 10-13 courses all very small but explained in detail, all locally sourced, potatoes, eggs, seafood, vegetables. The food was all prepared in front of us from the salads, to little appetizers, mains, and desert All the plates were prepared then delivered to each table. We left quite satiated, ordering a Lyft cab for the ride home.

Sunday was a free day on our tour of Canada, and left the hotel in search of a breakfast place as only place at hotel was Starbucks, not our favorite. Seems the more expensive the hotel the less they supply breakfast. But a nice place found, then on to the light rail train station. 30 years ago Jeanne and I were here and remember the monorail about town which had been made for the world expo in the late 80’s. Unfortunately it had been removed, but our tour bus driver yesterday said the expo line was a good choice for just seeing a lot of Vancouver. Jeanne and I often will just ride a mass transit train or bus about town just to see what is out there. Today we rode to King George station, found a bathroom at Starbucks and returned.

Our friend, whom we met some years ago in the ski jumping community lives here in Vancouver with her two boys, one whom is an upcoming ski jumper who is progressing up the ranks. Her daughter just left home for college in Halifax where we end our train ride across Canada. She and the boys met us, drove us to their place, then on to a delightful hike above North Vancouver. Reservations had been made at a wonderful Italian restaurant and after a walk about the waterfront of North Vancouver. A wonderful afternoon. I told Anya our tour bus guide yesterday said he could not recommend any particular Italian restaurant, stating “just walk into one and it will be great”.

Vancouver has been good. I love the diversity. Anchorage is diverse but its diversity is hidden unless you get in the right community. Vancouver is up front, Today on the streets the languages I identified, (correctly or incorrectly who knows) were English, Spanish, Hindi, Ukrainian, Cantonese, and I suspect many others I could not recognize. The town is clean with garbage cans and people that empty those disposal areas, (at least in the tourist, business and residential areas). It is easy to get around and I never felt unsafe despite the above occurrences.

Vancouver real brother-in-law estate is expensive though, at least from a real estate perspective. Apparently average price of a 1600 square foot 3 bedroom 2 bath house is 2.3 million dollars. whew.

And today Monday we depart on the train. The tour instructions said to take a cab from hotel to train station. Looked it up and 2.4 km. Walked it easily past the football stadium where World Cup held.

One note is after Toronto we are on our own, as in no tour, the way we normally travel. But again setting up hotel got taken by Expedia. Have been burned by them many times. A friend in Vermont has decided to come visit us in Montreal, and we invited him to stay with us. I went on website and it turns out it is Expedia. For two nights we were paying $790, Expedia said to add an additional person would cost an additional $800. Nope no way. With some looking I found the phone of actual hotel and called. She was amazed at Expedia and said she hears that often. She increased our booking to 3 people and said it was $760, $30 cheaper, but we will not get money back as originally paid to Expedia. We try to be on lookout for such but difficult sometimes. One thinks I have the proper site but turns out it is a third party.

Now sitting in waiting area before loading train.

Planes, Trains, and automobiles

Posted on September 12, 2026 by J. R. Patee

Just start by creating your day. Then create your life

Prince

A few years ago Jeanne and I circumnavigated the United States it was a wondrous little adventure, traveling, seeing, visiting and somewhat experiencing something new. There were various writings I did, written on this site from 2 October 2024 to 2024. In a conversations with others along that route many folks highly recommended the Canadian rail across Canada. Many said it was far nicer, hence we have signed on to crossing Canada by rail. As usual when you cross one thing off the list one adds two more. Quit keeping lists.

We started planning and getting reservations in February. It was difficult to find just the Canadian rail website through all the advertising. Again the commercial interests crowd out the independent traveler. When we did finally find just the Canadian railway, it was completely sold out, more than six months ahead of time. Geez, who thinks that far ahead? Obviously to numerous others, but not me. We thought well let’s look at the tours. Numerous options and we picked one which was the trip we had wanted, except they arranged hotels and an occasional tour. Price was much more than if we had done it independently, but space was available, we signed up for this time period, sent in our money and sat back. Easy peazzee!

Two days later a friend emailed pondering a reunion of our Colorado college friends. Her invite went something like

“Would you like to go to an alumni reunion a hundred or so people you hardly know or get together with or a dozen folks you really care about?” Of course, near immediately, 5 or 6 of us were in and soon it was a dozen. The Oregon coast was decided on as many of us have spent memorable times there. Originally Mary had set 11-13 September as a weekend, but Jeanne and I were committed to Canada rail starting the 11 September. Mary checked and realizing we are all retired and weekends mean nothing, she changed to 8-10. Yahoo

And a wondrous 2 days with about 15 of us. Some I had not seen since Colorado College when I left in 1970, others I have kept in contact with on occasional get togethers, others I have kept in contact- all though were close. It was as if we were never apart, what Jeanne calls comma friends- you are close, go off for decades and do your thing and come back together to carry on where you left off, with more life experiences. We had at least established our personalities enough in college we were who we were.

College was a defining time for us. I remember coming from conservative Utah and had read about “hippies” and read they were not good people. Then I met some! They were good thoughtful people, or just like everyone else with a whole variety, and not everyone thought or acted or lived like I had. Open ones mind. Sometimes the things we are taught are not necessarily correct. This is where education comes in, to teach you to think, analyze and ponder. I remember riding the chairlift once with someone I very much admired and they told me they “smoked dope”. I was blown away, I had been taught that was evil and would be the end of my life, but I thought about it and realized marijuana was not going to end the world, although in those days penalties of the straight world were extreme. the world has progressed.

When in high school and deciding where to go to college, the one story I tell is I knew I should go to one of those back east to some liberal school for a good education. But the east had no skiing which I had heard was icy, and skiing was a part of my life. Of course all skiing for me compared to Utah. Hence I found Colorado College which was east of the Rockies which entered it in the competition. My view was simple east and west, and east was east of the rockies. I had been across country and seen the “east” and it was flat and no skiing. To this day people will tell me St. Louis is west, and I just shake my head. Prejudices!

It was a delightful time catching up, learning of our adventures and misadventures, retelling stories from over 50 years ago and where we were led, from our decisions. For two days we laughed, told stories explained and heard explanations, ate, walked on the beach, walked in the forest, cooked and had a wondrous time. Amongst us during the intervening decades we had become artists, scientists, nurses, architects, ranchers, firemen, writers, doctors and the spaces in between.

Hikers in Oregon with a history of Colorado

Then onward to our trip, several pieces having to fit together as a puzzle, transport varieties, hotels, eating. Hopefully flows evenly. Four os us began our journey back to Portland via rental car returning to the airport. We took our time taking just over 4 hours to do a 1.5 hour drive. Stopped at rest areas, hiked, stopped at a roadside cafe, just enjoying last moments with each other, before returning to our other lives. We dropped off Jacqui and Maralyn at train station for their return to Seattle, returned car to airport, and our friends Sheila and Steve picked us up and out to dinner we went, alongside the Columbia river, continuing the conversations with different friends from years past and into the present. They dropped us at the hotel near train station and we departed the next morning for Vancouver B.C.

roadside restaurant highway 26 outside Portland Oregon

Train to Seattle, transfer to bus, due to better connection, and into Vancouver. Have not been here since miss nineties, a I remember a wonderful city, clean and vibrant, easy to get around. Thus far the same but far bigger. Our tour included a bus tour of Vancouver this morning. Bus tours are never our thing but included and was a nice little drive bout to the highlights, Stanley park, Granville island, Chinatown, gas town. Just a drive about with stops for short walks. Interesting driver narrator did all sorts of impersonations telling the stories and history.

Hotel arrival Vancouver not our usual type of hotel but included in tour

Granville Island Public market

And for another viewpoint of the same story check out Jeannes blog

Jeanne’s blog

And now to explore more and on eastward via train

Yukon River

Posted on July 17, 2026 by J. R. Patee

Only boring people get bored

Maralyn Crosetto

A semi sudden invitation came up to join a group floating the Yukon River from Whitehorse, in Yukon Territory, to carmacks, Yukon. It is a distance of about 176 miles ( 283 km) including lake labarge. Apparently normal float time is 8-9 days with usually 2 days for the length of the lake.

The people inviting us were of our age and we had not known them, but thought it would be good. For Jeanne it would complete the Yukon River from Whitehorse as far down as Eagle, Alaska. For me I have done all except the area from Dawson, Yukon to where the 40 mile river joins the Yukon. Below Eagle the floatable river becomes a much larger logistical challenge with multiple day shuttles, and is not common except in more expeditionary travels. Timing was not necessarily good for us with visitors, and busy summer activities, but when an offer pops up, one cannot always wait for a better time.

Hence we left for the 700mile (1125km) drive to Whitehorse over 2 days. Overnight at Fast Eddy’s motel and restaurant in Tok,Alaska, before crossing border, without incident, in Beaver Creek, Yukon.

We had had a logistical meeting in Anchorage, and my first meeting Greg, Shannon, and John. In Whitehorse we had a delightful evening dinner, where we further got to know one another. We all clicked and seemed to get along. John had been a judge in the state of Alaska, prior to retiring 7years ago, since then spending time traveling, playing tennis and a yearly kayak trip. Greg, an MD, and wife Shannon, a nurse, work extensively in Tanzania, Africa, raising several children through educational support, and a charity network.

Wednesday morning we delivered our supplies and boats to the boat launch in central Whitehorse, and arranged parking for 2 cars. I assembled our collapsible 2 person kayak. (A incredibly designed Feathercraft, made in Vancouver, Canada) and somehow we managed to load our massive amount of supplies into the boats. Jeanne and I have not been on a kayak trip in several years, and although the memory is there, we somehow forgot how little you actually need.

Finally departed about 2 pm in heavily laden crammed boats, floating along and into the wilderness. Yes! The first day we made 22 miles (35 km) to a wondrous camp just above lake labarge. Both Jeanne and I required some assistance cramming ourselves into the cockpits, and attaching spray skirts, rather embarrassing, but get over it.

It took us 4 days to cross the lake, partially because slow, and the 4th day wind came up forcing a halt to progress, until the waves diminished to a more manageable level for our skill level. Camps were proving harder to find than expected due to higher water levels of past weeks rains. I had downloaded the topo maps to the phone, which had potential campsites marked. We had obtained a river guide but it was very rudimentary. Past trips we just camped on river bars and beaches, all disappeared in higher water levels.

Campsite at old village of Hootalinqua, confluence of Yukon and Teslin rivers

Big Salmon River camp abandoned village site

Unfortunately my phone decided to go dark on day 5. I could text via the inreach GPS,but slow and cumbersome. I did text my friend Zak in anchorage, if he could research how to restart. He came through with a reset solution which would not erase the data. Over the next days I probably reset the phone 50 times each time restarting as usual then going dark. On the last day it suddenly worked gain. I had worried about photos taken before the dark, but utilized Jeanne’s phone for photos. Technology is not dependable.

Overall the trip was awesome. We did it in 9 days, the river moving at a rapid clip, often flowing at 7-9 mph (11-14 kph). Not many animals, although did see a moose one night swim across the 400 meters, then turn upstream and swim upstream against the current for another 400 meters. Squirrels, numerous birds. We saw an occasional motor boat of locals but for the most part remote and alone. A spectacular river float. One is alone.

Arrived above carmacks and due to current at the carmacks takeout, exited the river. A small houseboat had anchored for a stop on their float from Whitehorse to wherever the boat ended (Dawson, Eagle, Circle, haul road bridge, or the Bering sea)

Alaska

Posted on July 3, 2026 by J. R. Patee

“Man did not weave the web of life; he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web he does to himself.”

Chief Seattle

My sister has not been to visit us since about 2021, although we have seen each other, numerous times during that time . This year they decided to come visit in Alaska. Yeah! Exciting! Hence we feel the need to show them Alaska, although they have been here several times.

For the first couple days just sit back and relax, just enjoying the company of each other. Somehow over time I have lost the urge to constantly be going going going. I gave up lists of things I want to do because the list never gets shorter. Each item checked off seems to add a minimum of two more items. And as the Spanish proverb says “there is nothing better than doing nothing, then nap after”. Fear of missing out (FOMO) does not apply. Just enjoy the company.

But that does last only so long, one must move about and explore. Hence we are in McCarthy Alaska. Drove here yesterday, a 310 mile (500 k) drive. 8 hours, with the last 60 miles (100 k) gravel. Always a question when last graded as the washboard can be extreme and 10 mph max. They had just graded the road a week or two ago which also means freshly cut gravel, which one piece managed to pierce our tire. Crazy that modern cars have either no spare or a “donut” tire. Ours has a donut but our history with either is tenuous.

Ok what a day. Took the shuttle van the 5 miles ( 8 k) up to town of Kennicott . This is the area of kennicot mine and was one of the largest copper mines in the world and the where the start of the Kennicott company began. Currently the area is within the Wrangell St Elias National Park and the mine area administered by the park service.

Jeanne first visited McCarthy in 1982 the first year she was here. I first visited probably about 1989. We have had a few visits since, always memorable. My friend Zak and I did an awesome hike in the backcountry in about 2018 or 2019 (goat trail). Jeanne and I coming here during covid time. Both trips involved spectacular back country mountain flying. The Wrangell mountains not only have some of the biggest mountains in North America but are spectacular and remote.

In December of 1983 Jeanne was working triage in the emergency room at night in Anchorage. A fellow came in with belly pain , having hitchhiked the 300 miles from McCarthy in December. It was a quiet night so she spent hours talking with him about life in remote alaska. 3 months later he was 1 of 6 people who survived a mass shooting. Just happenstance they had dropped their mail with a friend to send on the mail plane coming in on the once a week mail delivery. Someone else was also waiting and shot 8 people, of which only 2 survived, as they were to meet the weekly mail plane. 5 other people were gone on various trips and did not meet the mail plane. That was the entire winter population of McCarthy in 1983.

Ok back to today and we were talking with a seasonal park employee and Jeanne asked about a fellow she once knew who had survived the shootings. Turns out he owns one of 2 restaurants here. Tonite we had dinner with him. Small world. We have travelled in different worlds and circles, but been within convergences numerous times. He knows our friend Geoff in Utqiagvik having dog sledded across the top of North America. One never knows where one’s path will lie.

But back to today and the visit to Kennicott. Did a delightful hike to an overview of the root glacier. Then signed up for a Tour of the mill. The park service has gone in and partially restored the 100 year old 14 story wood building where the mine brought the ore from the hills above. Jeanne and I had in years past, before the park service, gone into the delapidated and falling apart building exploring, which was fascinating but we had no explanations of the processes of refining the ore for transport via train the 167 miles to Cordova on the coast where it was transported to Tacoma Washington for final refining.

The mine was discovered in basically 1901 and a railroad took 6 years to build. The land rights, as they were, were made and the mine began operation in 1911. In 1938 the sudden decision was made to close and with literally within hours the last train left and Kennicott became a ghost town. It was again “discovered” in the 1950’s and in about 1988 National Geographic did a story about the town.

Kennicott rail depot with copper refining mill behind

We learned much of the history of the mine today from our tour guide. The park service has gone into the mill and created a “safe” walkway down the 14 story refining mill and our guide gave a wondrous dissertation of the refining process and history.

After the dinner and during the walkabout town (5 minutes max end to end) we discovered our tire had been repaired (for a minor fortune) but recommend it serve as only an emergency for the emergency donut tire. We are in a bind. More to come!

Ok onward no reception, or very spotty. Yesterday we arose early expecting to take a long time on the drive to Glenallen. Somehow we managed to get a friend to go to our house and pull out the stored 4 stored winter tires, get them to the only shuttle bus from Anchorage to McCarthy, by 7:45 am. They would drop the tires off at the only tire auto shop in Glenallen, who we had not yet been able to contact. After 9 am we were able to contact them once we had cell service.

Again, cell service is very dicey. Turns out ATT does not cover the area of McCarthy hence we were using Verizon of my sister’s mobile phone. Big business kindergartners cannot learn to share. Irritating! and very little reception along the road back to Chitina.

We shuttled and hiked our bags to where car parked. (Road stops about a kilometer before town due to Kennicott River. Formerly, there was a hand tram for crossing but now a pedestrian bridge. Arrived at car and as the tire repair fellow said tire was repaired, but appeared even with repair to have a bit of a bubble. It looked as an emergency tire to the emergency donut tire. Had placed the donut on the rear in case of a blow out, and we began, the 59 miles (99k) of gravel road to chitina and the 70 miles( 115k) to Glenallen and the tire repair place. We did it in 6 hours due to did not want to speed on the donut tire which is rated for a max of 50 miles (80 k). But we did it.

Arrived at 2 pm and proceeded to wait until they could fit us in. Tires arrived from Anchorage a few minutes after we did, so all good. At 5 pm tires repaired, threw the bad tire away (after spending $325 to repair it to emergency standard). The tire shop said we could leave the 3 good tires out front to be picked up by friends, Zak and Natasha, who would be returning from a trip to Valdez in a few days. Placing three tires in our car would have cramped our driving quarters. The mechanic said the bad tire had an excellent repair but would not have lasted. We were lucky.

On to Valdez via beautiful Thompson pass. I believe someone spilled the green pigment and all the plants were in glory.

Arrive Valdez at 8. Zak and Natasha met us after a day of climbing and utilized the shower in our motel room, dinner, sleep and up early to catch ferry to Whittier at 5:30 am.

	Maralyn Crosetto on Montreal
	J. R. Patee on Montreal
	Maralyn Crosetto on Toronto
	Maralyn Crosetto on The Canadian part II
	Karen Copley on The Canadian

	Maralyn Crosetto on Montreal
	J. R. Patee on Montreal
	Maralyn Crosetto on Toronto
	Maralyn Crosetto on The Canadian part II
	Karen Copley on The Canadian

jrpatee

J. R.,s bike rides, tours, and philosophies