My friend Günter from Germany is riding from Anchorage to San Francisco starting by heading north to Fairbanks, then over the Top of the World Highway to Dawson, Canada and on down south. Originally he wanted to ride across North America west to east but several told him that was rather boring and better going north to south. I met Günter when he joined the Andes Trail with bike dreams in 2014 for the last month into Ushuaia.He now has another trip and I seem to live vicariously, so am helping him out.He arrived Anchorage and departed a few days later after recovering from the jet lag.He rode to Fairbanks, then was headed east. Here is my version, he tells his story in his blog, but it is in German.http://guderley.com
Great fun. Talked with Günter last Saturday the 18 May, and he was a bit concerned about conditions on top of the world highway, as yet very early. I said I would check and call him back. Called the Dawson (Yukon Territory, Canada) visitor information whom I had talked to about a week ago. The incredibly pleasant ladies there said they would check and call me back. 15 minutes later I get the call and report in:border crossing will open Monday, the gravel road is wet but good, and no established campground between Chicken and Dawson (about 200 kilometers). I called Günter and reported the results and offered if need be, I could drive up and offer help as need. Ok!
Monday we talked again and he said it would be nice for me to come up, if for nothingelse than just to see each other again. I said I would meet him tomorrow in Tok, Tuesday afternoon. It would be I thought 6-7 hours drive to Tok, Alaska where we would meet and I would leave about 8 or 9 in the morning. I quickly threw some things in the car and had a delightful evening with Jeanne.Oh boy a road trip. It would be nice to go to the interior where supposedly weather is warm and sunny, unlike the coast.
Tuesday, I left about 9:10 after filling Volvo with petroleum and stopping at a bakery for treats for Günter. I arrived in Tok at about a quarter before 3 having basically set the speed control at the speed limit of either 55or 65 mph.A wonderful drive although rain at Eureka summit crossing into the Copper River Valley, Mentasta Pass, crossing into the Tanana Valley which drains into the Yukon River, and the rain started again when I arrived in Tok. I am tired of clouds and rain. I am ready for some sunshine. It was been a wet chilly past month in Anchorage. Along the way were 4 big caribou, one grizzly bear, two big moose, plus maybe fifty swans.
Günter was waiting in Fast Eddy’srestaurant (the only place to eat in town) and we had some beer and a snack.I needed some blood movement so went for a walk in the rain returning to our motel room soaked despite the rain jacket.Dinner and to bed
Wednesday, Morning found Günter departing about 8:30 and I about 10. I caught him about noon in s heavy snow storm 50 kilometers up the road.Temp about freezing but miserable biking conditions, he then joined me in the car to Chicken. Amazing as they asked if we had reservations and had no rooms to rent. 15 seconds later we have two of the more expensive motel rooms I have stayed at, but actually really nice, $89 each, no potable water, restrooms across the path to main building, heat is minimal and unfinished.But we knew ahead of time that Chicken, Alaska was a remote site,thus I brought 5 gallons of water and we could get all the bottle water we want (but store only open 8-4)
As I remember it the day ended up rather inebriated. A wondrous evening, Günter and I went for a walk discovering all three cafes in Chicken were not yet serving food as too early in the season, so no food delivery until next week. But we have lots of cheese, bread, beer, and whiskey, thus no problem. The sun came out and we moved chairs to west side of building into the sunshine. Stacy from Austin Texas walks by our porch brings her bourbon which turned out to be rum, but all good, and we proceed from there. A fellow who grew up in Tok got a job here in Chicken for the summer joined us while he cooked his dinner in the back of his pickup truck.We had agreat evening, just bullshitting, talking, laughing, drinking. The only real discussion I remember was about Romania and watching the sun move across the horizon.Life is good.
And the best part of day. I got to help unload the truck of summer supplies. A semi truck. Life is really good.
Day 2of being with Günter started mostly sunny with birds singing their morning symphony and I said I would catch up fairly quickly as he left about 7:30. Catching him soon, was not to be, as it turns out breakfast came with the room, which I discovered when going over to gift shop for morning coffee.A waffle and sausage patty.Not bad!Conversations with more travelers with Florida license plates then onward, but a mile up the road is a hike which reportedly is bike able but I decided to walk and the decision was quickly verified when numerous down trees and boggy conditions would have made walking a necessity anyway.A good walk overlooking an old abandoned gold dredge.Lots of history in this 40 mile region.
Finally caught Günter after 3 hours as he was starting up the second big climb of day.I drove to the top,changed into biking gear and had a delightful downhill ride for4 1/2 kilometer (3 miles) then climbing the 220 meter elevation gain back (700 feet)to car. Nice to ride again.A stop for lunch at the top in the car when it started raining, then began to thunder and lightning.Aftera few minutes I said I had no interest in camping up here on ridge of “top of the world highway” in this weather, and he agreed.We had hoped to get just beyond the U. S. Canadian border and camp, but glad we decided to head into Dawson. Whew, snowing, cold temperature at freezing, drivingsomewhat slow due to visibility, slush, and generally just not good especially for camping.
We descended into Dawson taking the ferry over the Yukon river which gave us time to read texts which began arrivingjust before the ferry as we got close to town and cell reception.Somehow we survived 38 hours without WiFi internet access.The clocks changed on phones with time zone, butzero bars or reception. Amazing world when one can survive 38 hours without communication with the outside world.
Found a hotel and moved in, having to change rooms once due to leaking ceiling from all the rain continuing to come down.A dinner celebration, then on to “ Diamond Tooth Gertie”, a saloon, with can can show of the 1890,s. We noted that we were probably the oldest ones in there, but a very pleasant time.
Friday, with great sadness I departed to return home.Depressing, and I was wondering what the heck am doing.Reached the ridge where conditions yesterday were bad, now starting to dry out, but I wasstill feeling down, so changed clothes and went for a nice bike ride 10k down the road and returning to car feeling much improved.Back on the road again, spirits lifted, and opted to take the “take at your own risk” road to the abandoned town of Clinton and the bridge over the forty mile river which we have floated several times.This road had even less traffic and when you came across someone you stopped and talked.One fellow (of the two cars I came across. turns out is the owner of the entire town of Clinton,then returned to top of world highway. This road being somewhat busy with a car every 30 minutes you only wave when you pass someone.
And easy going through border.Farthest north U. S. border and not sure why they put it on the highest most remote section of the road. Someone smarter than me, figures these things out.
Now camping at our lunch spot where yesterday it was storming so bad.Dinner and into tent before the rain started again, although did note a right rear tire on car a bit low so checked pressure and yes leaking.Pumped it with the bicycle pump taking almost 15 minutes but exercise is good.
In the morning tire looked ok but pressure down so pump again and drive to chicken where no tire repair, but a compressor.I was told to be brave and get to Tok.Stopped to pump the tire with bicycle pump 2 times in the hour and half drive (78 miles). I do have one of the doughnut lightweight spare tires, but have had very bad luck with them, and best if one can avoid it.
Along the way looking for two women riding to Ushuaia, whom Günter had met along the way, but I did not see them. Did stop and talk with a couple of Germans heading to Las Vegas, and a couple from Utah heading to Utah. Nice to see people out and about exploring.
Made it back to Tok repaired tire for $25 pulling the rock which had punctured the tire.A nice walk between rains and now back to Anchorage.I think it is time to quit living vicariously.
The test of our progress is not whether we add to the abundance of those who have much, but whether we provide enough to those who have little
Has been a great first day in Washington D.C., but we arrived last pm. Found a restaurant about 6 blocks away but proved great with a waiter who filled us with lots of local info. The walk home and unlocking the apartment I dropped the keys., when trying to unlock inner door. Did not hear them hit, but knew they fell. We could not find them in the dark but hooray for cell phone flashlights, which also refused to show the keys. Then we noticed the cover off the 3″ storm drain. At first did not see them but it was water about 2 feet down. Then I saw the green nylon cord they were on.
Suffice it to say it was a bit of a worry. Took us an hour an half to finally retrieve them. Difficulty finding a stick but then it just pushed whatever down further and I knew there was a drain somewhere down there. The owner was in Philadelphia and could not help. Jeanne went in search of a coat hanger and after 25 minutes returned having paid $20 to 4 month pregnant homeless lady to help find one. Still no luck, and now Jeanne called a locksmith but as he was explaining the difficulties the coat hanger managed to return the keys. An hour a a half.
The entry way with covered (now) drain
On to today though and started a Washington D. C. Walking tour of the monuments and memorials. I thought of my friend Zak who said everyone should visit there nations capital at least once. The history of the United States is amazing and it shows. I was impressed by the history of l,enfante who designed the mall at the direction of George Washington. He wanted a large space which over time one could show the monuments to our history. Wow. Impressive. The Washington monument is impressive from every angle and lighting. When built it was the tallest building in the world 550 feet. It is closed now for repairs of the elevators, but outside was blocked off, perhaps making a memorial of where I threw up in 1965.
Then the World War II memorial and on to Vietnam memorial. I never went to Vietnam but it had a huge affect on me, and the memorial brought me to tears. I tried to remember the names of the people I knew who were lost there, but my memory failed me.
There were two things which struck me today, the number of people who were willing to give their lives for their beliefs, throughout history, and the eloquence of some of our leaders.
vietnam memorialKorean war memorialKorean war memorial
We moved on and diverged for the self guided tour and walking to Arlington cemetery viewing the women’s war memorial and Kennedy gravesite.
Lincoln memorial not only with his statue but the Gettysburg address and his second inaugural address engraved on the side walls. Very powerful
As a newspaper reported recorded several years after Lincoln’s death:
“Washington taught the world to know us
Lincoln taught us to know ourselves”
Then to World War I and Martin Luther king jr.
School class with MLK
Then franklin Roosevelt and it was not the tiny little memorial but had been moved to cover 6 acres. There was the small memorial but much more covering his 4terms in office and how he raised the standards and pulled us through another world war.
Jefferson was the final visit of the day and it capped the wonders of the day taking us back to the writing of the Declaration of Independence.
now we were hungry, breakfast having worn off hours ago. We agreed to head home and try and find a restaurant along the way. Several restaurants, all closed. Finally found a Korean restaurant near home. Someone told us this is a business town and restaurants here do not cater to tourists. Not sure where they eat.
And we looked for my bike path I rode in on over 50years ago but could not find anything resembling my memory. If it was there it is a highway now.
The more you travel, the more you discover that the world is beautiful everywhere.
Off yet again being a tourist, just looking around, poking about and seeing new and old things. This time to visit the United States capital – Washington D.C. As a friend said, everyone should visit their capital at least once just to see the physical place in which our nation’s primary workings are determined. Maybe not the primary working, that would be out with the results, people working and the land in which government rules. But government being a necessary entity with which our species survives, has to have a place for people to meet and determine how they will get along. In the United States that is Washington D. C.
Hence back in October my wife Jeanne, got us tickets to go to Washington. The average spring cherry blossoms peak apparently 2 March and that seemed perfect. (Originally I wrote April but corrected it.now). She has never been to Washington and I have been there only once, in 1965, riding my bike for a month about the area starting in Philadelphia and ending in Washington. It was an amazing trip, 10 kids ages 15-17 and our 21 year old leader. I became hooked on bicycling.
My memories of Washington D.C. consist of riding my bike along a delightful gravel paths alongside the Potomac river. I believe it was the B & O towpath. It was designed apparently as a horse path to tow the barges along the river in the 17 and 1800’s. This section was a great ride as we went from hostel to hostel. As I was riding through the lush forest one of the others in my group yelled out to stop as we were to exit here. I mentioned we were heading to the city, and this was still forest. They said we should climb the stairs and exit here, which we did. Wow, at the top of the climb out of the river valley, we exited the forest and there stood the Washington monument, instantly recognized. My ideas of the east coast being totally developed were being erased, as I realized the forest behind us, easily hid the city. We arrived at our hotel and prepared for 3 days of walking and sightseeing, within the city.
The next morning we first hit the local White Castle hamburger place for breakfast, downing as I remember 5 burgers. (Which in those days were much smaller being about 2-4 bites, and costing usually a nickel). Then on to the Washington monument where we all ran up the stairs, to enjoy the view about the city. Back down and my stomach was not happy and proceeded to vomit a large quantity all over the sidewalk at the base of the monument. Somewhere along the line I had gotten a bug and spent the next days resting in the hotel, while the others explored without me. I did venture out to do a bit of walking, seeing the Roosevelt memorial, which always impressed me. It was not a big thing , just a small life size statue of him, his dog, in the wheelchair. Then on to the natural history museum and wondrous dioramas. And somewhere in there I got a tour of the capital building. That is my memory of the city.
The surrounding area did impress me, with its historical sites.Harpers ferry, Gettysburg, Shenandoah National Park and a day hike along the Appalachian trail climbing Mt. Hawksbill – the highest point in the area, all of about 4700 feet (1400 meters). Back to Washington where I boarded the train for the 2-3 day trip back to Utah. (Trains in the U.S. aren’t much faster today)
Fast forward to 2018 and I am returning. Alas even with the best laid plans things change. Neither Jeanne or I like to have everything perfectly laid out with every stop and moment choreographed to fill ones time with all one wants to see and do. But to me that is just sightseeing and one does not get the feel. I tend to forego the reviews, and much prefer to “wing it”. Yes it is nice to have recommendations, but to feel a place one has to slow down and let it come into you. Talk to the people, experience what they do. Yes one cannot see all there is and you will miss stuff, but one can see what the place is about. I believe it was Anthony Bourdain, the food critic, who told the story of going into a foreign restaurant, not having a clue about the language, and just pointing to the meal someone else had ordered, which looked good.
And so it is with this trip. When we told people where we were going, those who had been there all said we had to go see (insert museum, memorial, home or whatever). In the 7 days we are there we have a list of things which would occupy years. I suspect those that live there have not seen it all. I have told people my goal is to sit on the steps of Lincoln memorial and just soak it in, watching the world go by, and I would like to see the air & space museum. But whatever comes along will be great. I suspect a few more people than 1965 when one just walked up and enjoyed. We shall see.
It was mentioned am I going to try and give a piece of my mind to those who like to set the rules of government. I do write numerous letters to our illustrious representatives and always seem to receive a letter back thanking me for my letter and proceeding to ramble on about something only vaguely resembling what I write about, never answering the questions I ask. Why should I waste my time visiting someone who is going to dismiss me categorically. I will continue to vote trying to get them out of office and replaced with someone whobelieves it is for more than just a well paying job of which they have to accomplish nothing. And I will continue to write letters stating my ideas, fully expecting them to write back with their drivel. Several said a tour of the White House, where the president lives is awesome. I do not want to even be associated with the current residents there. There is a tiny remote chance they might be present. There philosophies are not my vision of the world.
One thing we wanted to do was participate in the “gun march on Washington”. Certainly was not scheduled when we made arrangements for the trip but stuff happens. As noted above our illustrious representatives refuse to listen to the masses and prefer the big organizations, which represent the big organizations. Thus after yet another shooting in the United States and the representatives giving their thoughts and prayers and moving on, finally the youth are speaking. We want to show our support, plus I have never been in a protest with 500,000 people. It must be something.
Alas, travel is a risky proposition. We departed Tuesday planning on staying a short night in Seattle. I am finding I do not do as well as I used to, and flying all day and night arriving exhausted has better options. One can fly cross country in a day but why. Thus I convinced Jeanne to spend a night in Seattle and then fly during the day arriving at a reasonable hour, still tired, but not totally out of it, requiring several days to recover. Sometimes that is unavoidable but I find it much nicer if one can to take a bit more time.
Thus arrived Seattle, checked into motel across the street from airport, and hopped on train for trip to visit our nephew and his girlfriend. It was a delightful visit, not having seen them in about a year. And along the way stopped at some fabric stores which are unavailable in anchorage, for supplies for ski jumping suit repair, which Jeanne performs for the anchorage ski jumping club. A great use of time, and got to see Seattle from the train , rapidly going from airport to downtown Seattle in minutes without a hassle.
Back to motel and up early for 8am plane departure, keeping an eye on weather back east. The 4th big snowstorm in a couple weeks was expected to hit on Wednesday, our flight day.
Off for the day
U of W quad cherry trees.
I nearly had my hand on door to walk out of motel and Jeanne says flight is cancelled. Ok stay in motel, call airline and find options are a flight that afternoon to San Francisco and an all night flight arriving in Washington DC at 5:30 am. That is what we were trying to avoid. Or a flight on Saturday. At first we decided to cancel whole thing, get a refund on air tickets, but we would give up our B & B without refund of $750. We needed coffee and called another friend taking the train to her place where we drove to a delightful breakfast place and caffeinated ourselves. Thus we decided to wait for Saturday and spend 3 of our 7 days in Seattle. We have numerous friends and relatives and there are multitudes of things to do.
Seattle is a delightful city although it has grown way too big way too fast. Like many things the time to do things is before they need to be done, because when they are necessary it is often much harder to do. We borrowed a friends car and experienced the traffic nightmares of Seattle. That was only one day, and from then on we took the train to our motel back at the airport, walked, took the bus, and Uber. (Uber drivers are awesome to converse with as they live and feel the city)
The homeless problem is ongoing in Seattle with tents and camps scattered about sometimes just out on sidewalk. Apparently Seattle is trying but because it is so expensive to live there, the homeless population is increasing faster than solutions can be created.
But we visited friends on a one to one basis, caught up, reminisced, planned new ideas, and conversed.
And we visited the zoo which for a zoo is very good, seeing animals I would never get to see, and when I have seen them in their natural wild environment, lamenting how awful it is for an animal to be in a zoo.
young Komodo dragon searching out food (maybe 4 feet long)gorillaWe visited the aquarium which has always been one of the best. The information presented is prodigious and would take a long time to process and absorb it all. Continue reading →
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. John F. Kennedy
In the 1970’s Jeanne worked in Yosemite park as a nurse. It was a life altering event in that it opened up her views of the world. Her coworkers were amazing and bonded with each other. They have kept in close contact and attempt to get together every year for a reunion of some sort. Last year they came to Alaska and visited Jeanne and I. This year we came to visit Judy who resides in New Orleans. She has shown us an amazing taste of New Orleans.
New Orleans definitely is a town with atmosphere. Most cities are just cities, which can be interesting, but New Orleans seems alive, vibrant with multiple activities some time specific, some ongoing and localized. From evening one when Judys sister and husband had made us jumbalaya, which goes over New Orleans style potato salad, to restaurants ,to the crawfish boil. The food is incredible.
One Uber driver was worried if we had been getting a food taste of New Orleans. He said hurricane Katrina made him realize how good the food was. During the hurricane local food was not available and when it returned folks began to realize what they had.
Day one we started at the World War II museum. We spent 3 1/2 hours and were overwhelmed with well presented information . And we only saw a portion skipping the movie, and numerous exhibits. It was intense. I came away with the feeling of the millions of stories created and often untold. As one historian said he found the closer to combat the participants were the less they talked. It was only in the last years of my dad and his cousins did I discover the things they had been through. It was the same for Jeanne’s dad. Once again the museum reiterated the human nature of thinking I am far better than you.
Day two we went on a swamp tour. Oh my. Very different than Alaska wilderness. Alligators, wild boar, birds, trees living in water, snakes. The tour guide was great and the more questions we asked the more interesting he became. A good old boy who grew up locally. He claimed he had only been a guide for a week and learned his information from u-tube videos, information which seemed to require years of accumulation including how to drive a boat through those trees, roots, and currents. He had gotten up early to hunt for the elusive hot dogs which alligators like and marsh mellows which pigs like. I have never seen those trees, marshmallow or hot dog trees.
Day three was the purpose of visiting this time of year; the French quarter jazz festival – billed as the largest free show of Louisiana music. Judy dropped us off as since she lived here she did not feel the urge to visit, and parking is a pain. She offered to stay back with Jeanne who was increasingly sick with cough and sinus congestion. We had gone to a doc in the box that morning and she received a shot.
We had schedules of bands, venues, times and activities of which by the end of day we ended up just wandering about for 7 hours trying and failing to fit it all in. At one point I texted my sister saying I was sitting in front of police station with beer in one hand, a mint julep in the other just watching people and it was only 11 am. (One can wander the streets with booze here, very nice as not corraled off as most places. You just cannot have glass bottles)
Music venues everywhere and activities were to be found everywhere, but I was feeling tired as also was succumbing to the tiredness dogging Jeanne. I decided to call Uber for an early ride home. Judy would pick up the rest after rush hour at 6:30. I had never used Uber but it was amazing. The driver was a wealth of information and wanted to make sure I was enjoying New Orleans as it was his city. And it was about half as expensive as a taxi and easier to get, knowing before hand where he was and who he was. No wonder it has taken off.
Day four Judy dropped us off at the trolley stop, where we boarded the longest continually operated city trolley in the world. Apparently started around 1800. Great to travel the neighborhoods and university districts. Tulane and Loyola universities are both here along with numerous others. It
Arrived again at French quarter and much more crowded being a Saturday. More venues and fewer plain street musicians. Very good but crowded. We ate at a different restaurant again I had delicious oysters just different. Still lots of garlic and excellent. After Jeanne and I wandered a bit to show her the jazz fest then back to trolley and an Uber ride back to Judys.
Day five. Drove across Lake Pontchartrain which I understand is the longest bridge in the world, being 24 miles long. (38.5 kilometer)
We rented bikes to ride the rails to trail ride to Anita and the brewery there. Delightful ride although I do not understand where comfort bike term comes from. Sit straight up not allowing any power into the legs. The big wide soft tractor seat with big springs was very uncomfortable. After 20 miles I wanted my arrow saddle bent over bike. Everyone was sore.
Then on to judy’s family and a crawfish boil. Oh my oh my. They know how to put on a feed. I envisioned a few crawfish on a plate, but we went through 2 20 gallon tubs. Oh my. They showed us the whole process – cleaning, takes 4-5 rinses getting out the detritus from the mud (which can include snakes and such) putting the vegetables (corn, garlic, potatoes, hot dogs, etc. and spices in pot. Boil and pour out on table, covering the table covered with newspaper. Plates are about 50 cm (20 inches) across and you fill them up. To eat you break the crawfish in half then suck the head to get the spices, then pinch the tail for the meat.
Being new to the process we timidly filled our plates and sat at counter . Laura took my plate to demonstrate the proper way and filled my plate. Apparently no one else in our group cared to follow suite. We were actually astounded when a second boil (pot) was put on. When he came ready Judy’s family had helped us finish our serving and went into the second. They did not waste time on sitting and plates, just stood around table and feasted. They could go through 4-6 crawfish to my one. And the conversation flowed. Delightful!
Day six and off to hike about Jean Lafitte national historical park. The visitor center was closed due to funding cuts, but trails great. Hike about 3 miles along mostly boardwalks. Viewing numerous snakes, garter snakes, bull snakes?, copperheads, frogs, birds, and 3 alligators. What a different world.
Today “just a walk in the park “near home. Delightful just walking watching birds, trees, the creek. A three mile running track, a dog park, carousel merry go round. At last some people who were not overly happy, but they were runners with headphones on.
People here have been super friendly. In the Avita bar a lady came up to us saying she had been easedropping on us and realized we were not fro here. (Probably because we were only ones to not have an accent in the room). She wanted to wish us a delightful visit.
It has been a wondrous visit and I now understand why people love coming here. We should return.
We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started, and know the place for the first time
Since returning from Steamboat Springs in Colorado, the streak of sunshine here in Alaska has continued. Awesome feeling to see and feel the sun returning. In a few days we will again have more daylight than darkness. The winter has been one of the better ones in many years due to the return of snow and cold. As I have said winter consists of three things, snow, cold, and darkness. If only 1 of three it can be”what’s the point”. This finishing season we have had an abundance of all three.
Hence after the great trip to Steamboat Springs we returned and I got a email wondering about the Knik Glacier. It is a glacier about 45 miles away (72 kilometer) and one can ride bicycle or snow machine to the face of it, if the conditions are right. The past years it has been too warm and the river and lake were a bit dicey to cross. I have wanted to do it for years but only tried once having to turn around after 10 kilometer because of thin ice and open water.
But the traveling is awesome, especially when traveling with companions who know how to deal with the cold and are great bicyclers, and are as excited as I am to be there. I will let the pictures speak.
As for the cold one just learns to work with it. Gloves and mittens are a necessity and sometimes a challenge if there are small things to work with (like a camera). One learns and it is awesome.
While there we discussed how if this area were down south it would be mobbed with people as it is spectacular. When I got home and looked at some of the pictures on the phone which gives location it said they were taken at the Lake George National Natural landmark. Wow who knew, I had never heard of it but having flown over it, I knew it was spectacular.
Then the next day wanted to ski some valleys which are often good in the spring. Natasha (ski jumping coach) and I went out to see what we could find. Alas, it has not snowed in weeks and the wind has been blowing over the gully we wanted to ski and it was a bit bare. Could have skied but the breakable crust and scattered rocks did not entice us further. We opted to return a different way making it a delightful tour. It is difficult to go wrong when the sun is shining, and the tracks are good. (or it is just plain crusty snow and you can go anywhere)
On day three Jeanne and I drove down Turnagain Arm just to see it as we never get tired of this drive. Turnagain arm was named by Captain Cook on his third voyage supposedly while looking for the northwest passage and he had to turn his vessel again.. (it was actually his first mate Bligh (of later fame elsewhere) who explored up the valley and had to turn again). Or a second version is the waters reverse course with the tide every 6 hours forcing one to turn again as the current reverses. When in full flow the waters, and ice flow at 9 knots) Either way Australia and New Zealand do not have a lock on Captain Cook history.
Video of moving ice in Turnagain arm. It is not bike able or boatable.
I have been trying all winter to get a video of the incoming bore tide with the ice as it is incredibly dramatic. Timing is difficult and it must be at full or new moon for maximum tide and I have not succeeded but will hopefully try again later this week. If I succeed I will try and post.
Sometimes the best travel is in one’s own backyard. Often that is the best of all.
I would like for them to learn naturally, effortlessly, almost without knowing it, that the love of beautiful, things, critical thinking and intellectual honesty. Are the three essential virtues. This way they will learn things for themselves, this way they will be real men. As there used to be. They won’t be fooled by intellectual snobs and political scoundrels. They will know how to live and outside of a century which is only getting deeper into infamy, lies, and stupidity
Jacques Monod August 5 1939
Again writing from plane, this time departing for home.
Eight great kids, mostly new to ski jumping anywhere from 2 1/2 months to three years of jumping. Jeanne, coach Natasha, and myself as guidance and directors. 4 kids had one parent along and two brothers had both parents. But parents were generally not allowed with us as we travel as a team. Parents stayed with friends or motels saying hello and watching during the day at the hill. We wanted a team spirit and comeraderie.
Interesting to watch interactions of parents and kids; which are as varied as there are personalities. But this age group (10-13 years) is starting to step out into the world on their own, and parents are letting go or not. It is the age of exploration and excitement at discovering the world. Hopefully this is not limited to this age group and exploration and excitement continues through life, but I have seen it this week, being immersed in this age group. Activity is near constant and not focused but it can be directed with channeling.
Learning experiences and encouragement, wow. For example we had set a quiet time of 9 pm and lights out by 10 o’clock. Mostly followed, but Thursday was a rest day of only xc skiing, jumping practice, a 4 hour trip to hot springs (with climbing wall, water slides (requiring of me, more than 15 slides to find a winner)). Thus Thursday night folks were not quite ready to wind down. But the jumping competition is on Friday. Natasha reminded me this is part of the learning curve, they cannot always be told something, they must learn it themselves. OK, I went into one of two boys rooms and two are standing on the bed saying “we are getting ready for bed”. I reminded them it is now 10:15 and it is a competition night. Yeah, yeah, yeah. As I was going up the stairs to next boys room the two previous run past me. (I guess they assumed I cannot see). 10 minutes later I go into girls room to find all eight watching a movie on the computer. Competition night! Whatever, we were all up at 7.
And teaching them of altitude (Steamboat is at 1950 meters, 6400 feet ), I told them to notice the stairs here versus the stairs at home. One kiddo as we climbed the stairs said he was not noticing the altitude, but he admitted the stairs were harder.
As for the competition we are a new program just getting going again. I had not necessarily expected great results and kept reminding the kids it was how they did, not how others did. On the first day one kid noticed kids from Calgary and park city. Our kids response (some of them) was “they are going to cream us”. I again reminded them it was not how well Calgary or park city or Illinois or steamboat springs clubs do, it is how well one does oneself.
That night in the competition we won, we lost, we got scared, we cheered, we beat our own records, we fell, we crashed, we got up, And the tears flowed. Some from beating personal goals, some from not achieving them. Tears from all myself included. Parents, helpers, watchers, and the kids, all requiring varying degrees and varieties of answers. (OK I admit I get choked up when I see whoever, whatever doing their absolute best) Breaks ones heart when a 10 year old is bawling their eyes out because they did not do their absolute best and felt they could do better.
Basically the adventure of kids. A real adventure. But will shortly tag the parents and say “tag you are it, your turn”
And I mentioned in last blog how they were excited about seeing cows, well they also saw for many, their first candy store. (Sorry parents, had to give them the experience of new experiences, kids choice). But it goes both ways. One morning tuned the radio to a modern station and all the kids were singing along to Beyoncé whom I had to ask who the artist was. Even us oldersters can still learn.
And great to see how other programs work. And one comment by the director of the steamboat club was he does not care about making olympians (and their have been numerous from the area) but he cares about making good citizens.
It was a great week of which I thoroughly enjoyed it and am thoroughly exhausted. For those without kids it is far harder than it looks and can be extremely rewarding. I am quite happy with loaner kids. My hat is off to parents. Hopefully I had a bit of good influence and they learned a few things (like candy is not necessarily the best thing)
Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience. Paulo Coelho
Gentle readers, again I am taking off on another adventure. This time the bike is not accompanying me; but am being accompanied by 10 other folks and a few groupies. There are 8 ten, eleven, twelve, and thirteen year olds plus Jeanne, the coach, and myself. The groupies consist of 4 parents. We are heading to Steamboat Springs, Colorado for the western region ski jumping competition. This is a different kind of adventure.
Our kids will be jumping the 20,30 and 45 meter hills although there is competition on the 70, 100, and 125 meter hills which will be great fun to watch. I have seen big hills, but have never seen a competition on them.
At first I was excited to go back to steamboat as I used to race there many years ago. Alas I checked lift prices and it was obvious they do not want people like me there. $155.00 US for a one day pass. I will be busy enough monitoring our group.
Several years ago a friend approached Jeanne and I to say she was very jealous of our adventures and trips. It was true we have done some amazing trips and adventures and seen a tiny portion of our world. But I thought about it, not being one who can quickly come up with a comeback, only to acknowledge her desires to travel and explore. The next day though, I mentioned to her our wondrous trips which were grand, but she had an adventure Jeanne and I are not doing. Raising a family through the years of growth and exploration. Perhaps even more grand. She thought about it and said wow that is true. (Then a year later she ran off with her best friends husband). We all have our own adventures and stories.
Oh my gosh. Two of the kids got bumped up to first class. The excitement is barely contained. No wonder I am enamored with this volunteer activity.
Has been an interesting week. The one thing we really wanted to do was go to Iguazu falls, a world heritage sight and one of the wonders of the natural world. We had been having trouble piecemealing a trip together and decided to get to a travel agent in buenos aires.
On arrival caught a taxi to the airbnb we had rented, nearly leaving my computer on cart at airport. Uh oh, traveling always is risky. Had to wait a bit as they needed to clean the apartment after the last tenants. Went to local parilla restaurant (barbecue) and did the usual ordering with a nice sounding name which I had no idea what it was. I ended up with blood sausage which was good, but Jeanne could not eat. Never ask what is in your food, just do you like it. Called on arrival so they could let us into the apartment and told them we were out front. Alas an hour later they came down wondering why we had not rung the bell. We did not know apartment number hence could not ring. More language misinterpretation.
Then began walking to the supposed tourist area of Florida street which had lots of street vendors but proved difficult to find a travel agent. Finally one was hidden away and only caught our attention when a vendor outside wanted to know if we wanted to travel somewhere. The office was right there we just could not see it.
No air tickets to Iguazu falls as christmas time and everyone traveling. Could get a pickup at airport to falls and hotel but no tour available and no flights. Burned again by traveling at christmas time.
But made arrangements to go to a Tango show and for a day trip to Colonia, Uruguay, across the river. Thus we have six days in Buenos Aires which was supposed to be three in Buenos Aires and three at falls, so OK go with the flow.
Saturday headed off to the number one tourist attraction in Buenos Aires, and the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the cemetery. Evita Duarte remains there. The places for caskets was quite impressive, many larger than actual homes.
Then shopping at the vendors and a street tango performance. I went to tip them as their performance was incredible. They thanked me and inquired if I would like a picture. Hence the tango dancer in crocs. My sister noted the crocs foot ware and probably the only person to see there is a guy in the picture. I still can’t see him when I look at picture.
That evening we had arranged for a tango show of which there are numerous in Buenos Aires. Dinner including wine beer, and delicious carne. (What else is there in Argentina?) along with a small salad and a wondrous desert. Then the show for an hour and half the dancers, musicians, and singers exhibited their skills. Quite the athletes. Amazing skill, I suspect acquired over years of training.
Sunday we heard there is a great street market where they close the road and vendors exhibit their wares. As per usual though a few problems: it was raining, the vendors were mostly of antiques, and not the artisan jewelery Jeanne was looking for. But walking along did see Greg and Liz from Australia who were on the expedition to Antarctica with us. A town of 4 million and we come across someone we know. I am still amazed at how that works.
Purchased another umbrella as had not brought ours along for the day and walked back to apartment. A nice walk through the city.
Exciting day as we were going to Colonia, Uruguay. Cross another country off the list, whoopee! A less than exciting ferry ride across the river which here measures 65 kilometers across. As near as I can tell this is second widest river in the world, second only to the amazon at 215 kilometers across. The ferry ride was less than exciting being more a cattle call than a boat ride. No place to even go outside and upstairs was for vip’s only.
Colonia a delightful place to just wander. Long clean beach along the river (I tested the water and fresh as expected) the city itself is a world heritage site and is nearly 500 years old. Interesting history with Spanish and Portuguese invaders. Spanish wanted to conquer, exploit and declare it theirs. Portugal just wanted commerce, hence often the Portuguese were just along the coast but eventually had choice of leave or be killed, and Spanish language resulted. Another case of I am better than you and will kill either you or myself to prove it.
A wondrous lunch of beer and squid looking out over the beach and water and sun. Umbrella handy today for sun.
Return on even more unimpressive ferry. They make a boat very unexciting. On return to Buenos Aires, tried to figure out cabs but taxi stand seemed only for VIP passengers so we started walking again, this time along the canal, and it proved delightful. People just strolling along in the evening. Stopped for some beers and to sit and people watch, finally about 8 pm decided it was time for dinner. Again only ones on arrival but when we left at 10:15 place was half full.
The colors across the canal as the sun descended were amazing reflecting off the glass on buildings on other side. Pinks, reds, blues, magentas- not the clouds but buildings as sunset progressed.
Tuesday 20 December
After a busy few days it was time for a rest and lounged about apartment until noon when stomach growling began and off to the neighborhood perilla 50 meters away for lunch. No sausage this time but veal and wine.
Off to the evita museum although cab driver did not know where it was and even with address insisted on taking us to the nearby art museum. We just walked the kilometer to evita museum, with a stop for a Starbucks frappuchino to combat the heat.
The museum itself is built in a building evita used as a shelter for homeless, abused or similar circumstances of women. Her story is a bit different than that of the musical: they did not cover the use of charity to increase their own fortunes. Here they covered labor reforms, voting rights for women, and the buildup of social programs many of which are still being fought about in the United States. And this was in the forties. Way ahead of her time and obviously a go getter. But stil the rich and powerful fought her, although in this case the people supported her. Although never holding a political office she has pictures on posters and buildings about town.
Back to the canal where I attempted to photograph the previous evenings sunset without success. The colors did not develop as the previous evening but still magnificent. Technical camera issues ensued, but Jeanne patiently sat at a nearby restaurant. The waiter from Italy spoke 5 languages and loved travelling. He loves Buenos Aires for its liveliness and comfortable atmosphere. He said he works til about 1 am when restaurants tend to close and the bars and clubs begin to open.
Wednesday 21 December and the sun is high over the Tropic of Capricorn, meaning it is winter solstice. Here there is about 13.5 hours of sunshine, in anchorage about 5.5. It begins to reverse with here losing light every day and up north they gain light daily for another six months when the annual rotation about the sun again changes again.
We celebrated by going on yet another tourist activity. This entailed a 2 hour bus ride out to the estancia (ranch). In the states we would call this a dude ranch. On arrival they met us with wine and empanadas which were delightful at 11 am.
Then for the horse rides. One should definitely ride a horse at least once a century, and I have now met my quota. Took me 5 times to get up onto the horse, as I seemed to have difficulty using the mane as a handle. The saddles here are not western saddles and do not have the handle in front. (Yes I know that is not the purpose). After a kilometer I was sore. I can ride a bicycle thousands of miles without being sore but a horse ride does me in.
Then a carriage ride and as with the horse ride the best part was the birds: burrowing owl, cara cara, herons and a bunch I could not identify.
Lunch was a 5-6 course meal of numerous meats, a small salad, and desert. Along with beer and wine, plus coffee after. Then the musical show and dancing. Songs by a “gaucho” then tango dance demo again very artistic and athletic. Some gaucho dances with bolos and delightful along with some of us in crowd getting up and dancing.
After the show off to the fields where the gaucho horse show began. Not your usual cowboy harassing cows in a variety of ways, but a high speed run with a tiny stick about the size of a finger which you had to spear a ring hanging down. Most runs they succeeded after which they rode up to the crowd and gave a lady the ring, along with a kiss. Jeanne’s’ ring fit nicely over her middle finger.
On return to the city our guide said demonstrations were taking place and would be difficult to get us back where they picked us up. Our pickup point was not necessarily near our apartment, but planned on another cab ride. The guide advised against a cab ride due to demonstrations as we would just sit in traffic. Ok we would walk which was acceptable as only about two kilometers, although finding walking on cement is harder than on regular trails. Along the way we saw no signs of demonstrations as we know them but power out occasionally but not an issue. ( think, traffic lights). Traffic although it appears quite crazy, is rather civilized once you figure it out. Not one incident of road rage or rushing, was rather pleasant and great fun to drive about and see the city.
And I think I love Argentina. Having ridden the Andes trail and spent several months in the country, it has such wonderful varied sites. Mountains, deserts, glaciers, beaches, oceans, and a people who are friendly and proud of their country, as they should be. As per usual the people are just here making a living where they are born. The government is often as separate entity.
In 1967 I was an exchange student in Germany. I had been taught that the United States was the greatest country in the world, but I found perhaps there were other places that are great too. I had been taught of the atrocities committed by Germany, but discovered it came from both sides. Perhaps we think our home is the best because we understand it. Again I am better than you thoughts prevail. But maybe that is not so, maybe just different and that can be exciting. Embrace the diversity. Just because we are different does not make us better or worse.
And I wrote this enroute from Buenos Aires to Santiago Chile. On arrival I attempted to save and everything except pictures was erased. Internet at airport is very slow, frustrating, and intermittent. I have what is called a sky roam which connects me to internet via cellular network but it seems similar to airport wifi. Ugh. I think I will try and post and edit more when arrive in Dallas in 12 hours. Well go figure as I posted this at Santiago airport wifi pictures would not show and writing was sporadic, but I look here in Dallas on arrival and shows up, so there you go.
“Once a journey is designed, equipped, and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament individuality, uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself, no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip: a trip takes us.”
John Steinbeck “Travels with Charley”
Departed the expedition taking the the bus the 200 meters to bus stop. Not allowed to walk the pier. Then we walked to the air BNB we had rented a distance of maybe 200 meters but very uphill. Ushuaia is on a hill and we were sweating on arrival. Unfortunately without internet I had been unable to contact the owner of time of arrival, hence no one to let us in at 9 am. Luckily the wifi was working from the house and we already had logged in from previous stay 4 weeks ago on first arrival to Ushuaia. Gloria the owner had left an email for us at 1 am wondering when we would come in. I emailed her back and stated we were sitting out front. She arrived in 20 minutes with a hug and a key. Somehow in the 24 days of trip I had managed to completely forget nearly 98% of any Spanish I might have once known. It is much easier to forget than to learn it seems. I believe I have forgotten far more than I have ever learned.
Geoff was still with us as he did not leave until afternoon, and we three wondered off in search of coffee and a continueing breakfast. The city center was full of red coats from our trip and we found Peter and Jilly at a coffee shop where we reminisced about past trip and next days. The town was full of tourists getting off ships and boarding trips. There were 4 ships in and interesting watching them parallel park a 350 foot ship, without tugs with a breeze of maybe 10 knots.
Peter, Jilly, Geoff, Hilda departed via bus for airport and Jeanne and I left somewhat alone. As it turned out though we arrived back in Ushuaia on the same day the bike-dreams Andes trail bike ride finished their 11000 kilometer trek from Quito. I had done that trip only going from Cuzco 2 years before. It was the start of this blog. We awaited their arrival, just sitting beside the bay watching the tide roll in and ships pass. Delightful time.
Great time seeing the erection of the finish line and podiums. Rob the owner and guide was the only one I knew but could easily relate to others. They came across as we did in a group smiling, laughing and congratulating themselves. I was quite surprised when Rob recognized me. Champagne was shared and stories told: it was great for me to be there it it was I think fun for Jeanne to see what I had done. Sounded like quite the trip similar to ours but very different. When I asked about weather every answer was only 4-5 days of rain. I had to ask about wind and all responded with a question stating maybe a bit of headwind out of Rio Grande, but nothing too bad. That is a big difference. Timing is everything.
A delightful dinner with Jeanne at great restaurant overlooking city and Beagle Channel. Dinners in Argentina are great and important. We somewhat rushed through it taking only 2 1/2 hours. One comes to sit and enjoy, waiters are not constantly coming around asking if you need something, and when finished you have to find the waiter for the bill. Just sit and enjoy. One feels one could sit there all night. And as usual we arrived early being about 8 and many tables open, but when we left at 10 tables all full and more people arriving. Different world.
Wednesday arrived and time to do something. We felt we had done a lot in Ushuaia before the trip as the Tierra del Fuego and Punta Arenas trips were not possible as we had planned. A hiking trip to Laguna Esmeralda was arranged via bus to the start. Depart 1 pm and told it was a 2 hour hike in of 5 kilometer with 2 hour return to catch bus at 5 pm. The trek started we5 and muddy through thick beech forest and became wetter and muddier. Finally arrived at base of last hill but still nearly a kilometer to go at 3:20 and decided best to return. Never saw the lake except as a picture but the valley was gorgeous. Hiked bike sinking nearly to knees in wet bog.
I was exhausted! 5 mile trek and legs were done in. Maybe that boat stuff was not so good despite burning calories just standing on blended knee constantly balancing oneself. We had empanadas purchased along way back to our cabana and called it dinner. I was in bed at 8:45 barely able to move my muscles were intensely sore. I believe not only the hiking but residual cold symptoms were bringing me down.
Interesting as up during the night for nightly downloads and I felt as if I was back on boat with jerky walking, banging against wall, lurching forward then back. Woke up enough to realize where I was and it became clear. Happened two nights in row, and I finally realized it was partly from the kilter in the cabana. It tilted a bit and not everything was straight as it was very old.
Thursday we became excited about laundry as none since departure except for washing necessities in sink. It became our mission and we loaded a duffle with nearly all our clothes. It was a crystal clear blue day, a good day for hiking about town, searching for a laundromat, whereas yesterday was cloudy and rainy. Three laundromats later, we had learned one does not do ones own laundry here, you take it in and pick it up later. Unfortunately all were busy and unable to do a same day processing. Alas, back to the shower and sink. Pants from yesterday desperately needed cleaning. Done!
The afternoon was spent realizing maybe we were tired. We had been on step for nearly four weeks and it was catching up. Thus spent delightful afternoon watching clothes dry, placing the Argentinian SIM card in my phone and proceeded to try and decipher why it would not work. All instructions in Spanish hence going back and forth with translation programs which seem only fair at the technical aspects. Finally realized I needed help so off for some squid and beer, finding a telephone company along the way. Hooray she spoke a little English and for 60 pesos was able to get 7 days of data and a working SIM. Seems the 30 pesos ($2.00) I paid for the card was only for the card and it needed charging. Another adventure in learning. And now we have Internet and can connect with Argentina, at a reasonably cheap rate. Had checked with my carrier at home ATT and found it would be about $100 plus nearly $1.50 a minute for calls. Tried to connect with ATT but could not convince them I exist, saying my user name and password were incorrect although they worked fine before we left.
Currently sitting on an airbus 320 flying the 3 1/2 hours to Buenos Aires and yet another portion of trip. Working our way back north. Has been a great trip. Would gladly go again, although would break up flight South and not do the night flights.
We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started, and know the place for the first time
First week aboard the MS Expedition.
Has been amazing spectacular stupendous and awesome. In other words “adequate”!
Boarded in Ushuaia pondering what kind of people we would be spending the next three weeks with. 123 passengers and approximately 70 crew. Of course seeing people at hotel it seemed like a bunch of old people, but then I realized I was one of them.
Once onboard introduced to life boat drill and emergency procedures, then we were off. One gal exclaimed “I am little kid excited”. One began to realize it may be a bit older crowd but rather adventurous although I do not think very many will go off on a bicycle tour of South America or Nepal or Germany. Only 8 from the United States, others from Australia, New Zealand, England, Ireland, Canada, Norway, Czech Republic, and a multitude of other places. All speak English. Ages are all over probably around 60 as an average, with several I am guessing in their 30’s. All are excited about learning and seeing. As we mingle about I am learning they all have incredible stories accumulated through out their lives.
The crew is again a variety, Filipino cabin crew, a Brazilian hotel manager. First mate and captain from Ukraine.
Warned the seas may be a bit rough after leaving beagle channel but proved quite calm in the full days travel to the falklands. I took a Benadryl as precaution but it proved totally unnecessary.
And thoroughly enjoying the knowledge level and excitement on board. Birds were amazing. Giant austral petrel, cape petrel, Wilson’s storm petrel and a variety of others. About noon a couple of fin whales went by. Photographers are going crazy. With the fin whales I spent about half the time trying to adjust my camera before I just put it down and watched the whales. Sometimes one must just deal in the present and forget the future.
Accommodations are wondrous, the bed incredibly comfortable with just a comforter over. Alden is our cabin attendant, and cleans the room twice a day, makes up the bed in morning, and turns it down in the evening. Amazing service and incredibly friendly. They work about 10 months a year with 2 off, and seem to work 18 hour days 7 days a week. In other words very hard working. Boat crew is standard 4 hours on with 8 off. As the captain said this has worked for centuries and continues.
The guide crew is in a constant friendly smile. There are 16 of them 13 paid, and three volunteers and very knowledgeable.(three unpaid are the lead scientist, photographer and MD) Brent from San Diego has doctorate in marine biology and lead scientist. (Born in Fairbanks and used to work in Barrow in 1978 when Geoff and I were there working with bowhead whales). Annette with doctorate in biology from Germany, focusing on habitat of southern humpback whales, the medical doc is from New Zealand, Phil from Catalina island in California is kayak guide, Kevin from England is bird guide, Lyn’s specialty is penguins and is from Australia, Shayne is the photographer and her classes have been full of a massive amount of information. The lectures go on. This mornings lecture was Southern Hemisphere marine mammals, and Penguins. This afternoon, bird identification of the Falklands, followed by the first of two lectures on Shackleton expedition, after which is followed by an on deck class of bird sighting, then a BBC movie on springtime in the arctic and Antarctic regions. (No landings as travelling between Falkland Islands and South Georgia, a two day journey, currently 300 miles southeast of the falklands)
Food is good with varying hours usually each meal an hour long. All 128 passengers fit in dining room and breakfast and lunch are buffet style with dinner being served. Usually 3-4 courses. Trying to limit myself.
First day out on crossing to Falklands we had classes on dressing for Antarctic, getting into and out of the zodiacs, boot fitting (they provide the muck boots) and general introductions to life aboard ship. Quite fascinating.
Arrived west point island in the falklands and our first landing. Made the landing and appeared to be a nice hike of about 2 kilometer up a bit of hill across some flatlands and to the headland.
Oh my gosh, on arrival in a bit of a valley was black browed albatross soaring about and then you saw it was a nesting area. And interspersed amongst the albatross were the rock hopper penguins. Zounds!
Windy as the albatross require winds to take off. Amazing birds with their 2 meter plus wing span.
Incredibly delightful just watching the albatross skim just feet above your head. The penguins just doing their penguin cuteness (standing there, occasionally preening, or yelling at their neighbor.
Back to the ship and on to Saunders island with a beach landing. Nothing serious but the staff is incredibly protective. Walked over the little spit, beside the gentoo rookery with maybe 100-200 birds standing on a tiny nest on a very slight upraised area. Hike to a beautiful white sand beach about a mile long covered with numerous penguins with small surf coming in. Had been warned to watch out for leopard seals hunting penguins coming in. And some skinny king penguins standing there with fluffy fat chicks of same size.
Off to the south end of beach where rockhopper penguins are attempting to climb hill to nests above. Hopping from ledge and rock and rock to ledge. Definitely more graceful in water. At one point maybe 100 came in at same time and we could watch them in the water. Swimming fast leaping out very graceful, then they get on land. One did not make leap of about a foot (30 cm) and fell about a meter (they are about 45 cm high) but just shook himself and proceeded to find another route.
Then walked the beach watching the birds sort of work their way to nesting area stopping to preen, return for a swim in the water. Incredibly cute.
Back to ship and penguins swimming along side porpoising through the water. And we are moving along pushed by a 50 hp motor. Everyone excited about seeing penguins.
During the night ship drove around north end of islands arriving Stanley about 7:30. Beautiful harbor where we tied up to dock. Buses to drive us to gypsy cove for bird watching or photography or to tumbledown mountain hiking. Jeanne and I chose the hike. Had a great guide who showed flowers and Falkland war history. This time the story was from British side as opposed to the story told in Argentina. As far as they are concerned Argentina is very bad, a very different from viewpoint of the Argentinians. One of the last battles was at tumbledown overlooking Stanley. Interesting walking about areas which were major battles and a war zone. Numerous minefields left and one must know where you are walking. Human species are amazing in their ability to try and destroy themselves.
Back to the bus where we returned to ship for lunch, then walked back into town. Obviously the weather is usually a fright here with wind. A beautiful day for us warm(15C, 60F), and not much wind but it obviously blows here judging by plants, and buildings.
Now enroute to South Georgia island. 900 miles from falklands to South Georgia. A gale behind us which we are just ahead of and seas relatively calm. Every once in a while we push or hit a wave and Jeanne and I think “earthquake” then realize we are on a boat. Just rocking but not bad, just make sure you can grab something to hold on and valuables (cameras, binoculars) are on the floor.
Wow yesterday on our second day of driving to South Georgia island was great. Crossed the Antarctic convergence and water temperature dropped from 8 to 2 Celsius. Big ice berg appeared (as in much larger than the ship) 1000 kilometers from falklands we circled the shag rocks a point of land sticking up then another 250 kilometer and this morning we arrive at northwest end of South Georgia. Cloudy and snowing but through the fog one can see the mountains. We are driving back and forth in front of right whale bay currently. Excited again to go ashore and see one of largest king penguin rookeries with fur seals, and elephant seals. Weather now at 6:30 outside bay the wind is 15-30 knots the temperature is 2 c and a slight snow. Nice
Well the scout party went to check landing at right whale beach despite winds 25-30 gusting 40. Cutoff for them is 40 knots. But alas the fur seals have taken over beach and totally unable to land anywhere, so we all went for a 1 hour zodiac cruise. Would have been 1 1/2 hours but winds increased to gusting at 60 knots (about 75 mph and 110 kph). Everyone totally bundled as temp still about 2 degrees C just above freezing. A bit chilly. Rain gear a requirement and the nice parka given us is very good. I took a good splash upon returning and came in dripping. Yahoo life is great!
The beach was spectacular. Second largest breeding colony of king penguins and they covered a huge area, but the fur seals dominated. They are not necessarily mean but defend their territory vigorously. Herded the penguins around keeping them from water, chased other males away and we have been warned they will charge us, hence no landing. I do not want a fight with a fur seal. And the behomoths of the elephant seals are totally slackards. Huge lumps of blubber just laying about pretending to be a rock, although at nearly 6 meters are in length and 4-5 tons it is not recommended to mistake it for a rock. Everyone agrees they resemble Jabba the hut in Star Wars. The king penguins are as cute as the rockhoppers and gentoos but bigger (up to 95 cm, 3 feet in height.)
Ice bergs about and big ones plus several growlers about. Currently repositioning to afternoon operations in bay of isles. Will see what weather and animals bring us. This morning catabatic winds were totally unpredictable and again offshore about 5 kilometers. Cruising along just looking at steep cliffs and glaciers. Beautiful
What an afternoon. Sailed to a bay but catabatic winds at 60 knots and could not get an anchor down. Tried another nearby bay in bay of islands and when tucked in behind an island the winds suddenly died, but shortly before dropping anchor the winds picked up again and we had to depart. Back across to a place called rosita bay and found calm. Kayakers went out but for the rest of us landing on beach was again impossible due to fur seals. But all got to do a zodiac cruise which brought us right to beach but could not get out nor did we want to face those 200 kg masses of fury. One was dead and being picked apart by albatross, one was very bloody with gashes and tears over shoulders and rump, but still guarding his 5 females and pups. Amazing creatures and a bit smelly. The elephant seals just lie around belching and farting. We are assured it is not belching and farting but their vocalizations, but sure sounds like belching and farting.
Back for a very nice sauna, dinner and BBC documentary of frozen planet the summer.
Grytvikin 1 December 2016
What a place: steeped in history. Zodiac in to the cemetery and a toast of whiskey to Earnest Shackleton and a walk into whaling station guided by the watchful and careful guides who are quick to point out our errors, in not seeing a slumbering brown pile which we have seen can erupt into massive fury and return to slumber in a few seconds. The whaling station is steeped in history and fascinating to walk through. (amazing to think of the whales that went through there, up to 40000 a year decimating the populations. In 20 minutes an entire fin wheel could be taken apart into tiny pieces scattered about the station rendered into food, fertilizer, creams and cosmetics.
Return ship for lunch and opted out of hiking to take the photography class with Shayne in the whaling station. She is amazing with her knowledge of cameras and photography. Learned (well she taught) bringing out the colors by using landscape instead of portrait mode and changing the white balance. Numerous points one such was, think about taking only one picture to sum up the entire whaling station. I took about 150.
But to think of the history and what had gone on there, Blaine the musician guide did a concert in the church and one could sit where the men of years past sat contemplating who knows what. But I realized I had not seen the museum and hence skipped the concert running through the museum which one could spend an entire afternoon at. Viewing exhibits of whaling, shackleton, falklands war, and general history of the area. Then to the art area which was a replica of the James Caird. Amazingly small. Shackleton crossed 800 miles of southern ocean to reach South Georgia island in that boat performing what has become known as one of the greatest rescues in history. His trip took 3 years with 24 men without a single loss of life. For those who have not read about shackleton and his amazing story and rescue it is a classic of one of the greatest rescues and expeditions to occur in the Antarctic heroic age of 1895. – 1920.
Back on board and we are headed back to attempt anther beach landing at salisbury plain where king penguin rookery is and Jeanne and I are going on a zodiac cruise. Then beach.
Friday 2 December 2016
Return to plains but although the water somewhat calm the fur seals were not and the beach masters were in charge. No landing but did have a leopard seal playing about boat in kelp. Yahoo. Magnificent if not ominous looking. One of the two animals I really wanted to see. The other is a blue whale but that is very rare.
Afternoon to a smaller colony of king penguins and able to somewhat precariously work our way through a few fur seals hiking up to a colony of several thousand . Wow impressive and the sun was out whereas in morning snowing and raining. Temperature is just above freezing.
Then a good zodiac Cruise about ice berg probably 40-50 meters tall, in three spires.
And just back from seeing the southern cross, not for first time but still good to check in. Always nice to see old friends.
3 December South Georgia island
Jogged back and forth last night until breakfast time then into stromness harbor to see another whaling station, hike and explore the area where Shackleton finished his over mountain portion of his epic story. Alas the place was covered in fur seals and totally unable to land hence decided to move to our afternoon destination of Hercules harbor. Alas again fur seals and fur seals again and wind blowing about 35 knots. So decided to move southward on island to see if there might be a bay which would offer protection and be interesting. Tried another bay finally ending up at gold harbor which was delightful. Alex the head guide said he had been there before but always blocked by fur seals but this time it was quiet, no fur seals to be seen, although numerous elephant seals, and a huge king penguin colony, and a massive hanging glacier at one end with an overpouring glacier at the other end of glacier. Beautiful although a bit of drizzle nearly snowing.
Offered a zodiac cruise but wanted to walk, then discovered we were last into zodiac again. Somehow our luck has been that way. But crew quickly loaded everyone and we were on shore. Amongst the penguins, and a large volume of elephant seal noises. Crossed the beach and into the tussock grass and mud and a gentoo penguin colony. 2 new chicks were noted beneath one bird. Then on through the mud and slime to another area overlooking the beach and stream where penguins were standing to cool off. We had to be very careful as there were fur seals about although young and not overly territorial, but camouflaged into the grass and mud. One does not want to surprise one and get in a fight or get bit. Everyone realizes an injury is serious stuff. We have one broken arm already and she must wait until we return to Ushuaia in two weeks. A life threatening injury would mean the boat turns around and we all go back to Ushuaia. The closest airport is 1200 miles away in the falklands and none here. Helicopters cannot get this far. We are on our own.
Jeanne and I sat for an hour and half just watching the birds and seals. Finally said we wanted the zodiac cruise and started back knee deep in mud. Great cruise South Georgia shags, penguins in and out of surf, elephant seals , then below the glacier. Incredible country.
Then back to the expedition (that is the name of our boat), another incredible meal movie and now heading toward Antarctica. An occasional wave and a bit of rocking about, although nothing bad as yet. Went up top and was actually surprised how quiet it is.
And the ship is dark except running lights as past 4 nights all windows covered to prevent bird strikes.
4 December enroute South Georgia to Antarctic peninsula
A bit rough last evening as we rounded cape disappointment but smoothed out and just cruising the smooth southern ocean today. Just saw some blue whales and fin whales. A rare sighting, the population is down to 3-4% of its pre hunting days.
Lectures this morn on seals of Antarctica and arctic. Scott gave a lecture on race to South Pole between scot and Amundsen. Great history.
This afternoon biosecurity again to check any dirt. Invasive species are becoming a problem hence a good wash of all external gear, and as yesterday we were wading in the mud, hence before arrival we must vacuum all pockets and Velcro, plus wash boots and any mud on backpack, pants, and boots.
5 December 2016
Each day gets better. This is like the 12th day in a row which is better than the previous. Awoke early about 5 looked out and there was a huge glacier descending down the mountain. Had to go out on back deck which had a small layering of snow, which was very slippery in my crock shoes. We moved along between big tabular ice bergs, arriving and anchoring at shingle cove on coronation island in the south orkneys. Apparently very rare to land here because of ice and wind. Due to flat seas yesterday we were able to go faster allowing more time, plus wind low and bergy bits were few allowing a landing.
Boarded zodiacs and cruised along the ice edge. Always a treat to just cruise along noting the incredible shapes the ice gets in and how deep in goes in that blue green color. Magnificent and I never tire of it. And here the glaciers were piling down the mountains above. I suspect there has never been a climbing trip here and multiple first ascents available although an incredibly remote and difficult place to get to. As noted earlier for almost all the crew, this was first time here. It was the first time for the boat in 5 years.
But onward everyone reveling in this journey. Geoff describes the area as Alaska on steroids. Me, I am running out of amazing words to describe what I’ve it.
But now back at sea heading to elephant island where Shackleton men spent 4 months awaiting a rescue. Gentle rolling and a few bergies out there.
The lectures continue about Antarctic explorers and the southern continent. One thing that has struck me is how Amundsen seemed to learn that locals have knowledge of how to live and work in the particular environment. When he came to the south he had already been to the arctic and discovered how the eskimos lived. Scott was English and since they ruled the world they felt they knew it all already. Stiff upper lip and all that. Amundsen used dogs and skis to reach the South Pole whereas Scott used ponies and man hauling. Scott did not return. Again on this trip I am seeing the history of man in subtle ways. I am better than you and I am willing to die to prove it.
Welcome to Antarctica 6 December 2016
What a day. Started when I awoke and went up for coffee. All were excited about the ice last night and how we were stopped. I had slept through the crashing bashing and rolling. But at 5:30 we were moving along, arriving elephant island about noon, where Shackleton’s men stayed for 4 months which is a bit of miracle as very little there. Glaciers on both side so area to go is less than 100 meters. Apparently only plants there are two species of lichen. There was a chinstrap penguin colony on rock above the beach, but wind blowing at 35 knots hence no landing or zodiac. Lots of fin whales about.
And chilly. Top decks were closed due to falling ice from superstructure, but sun came out in afternoon which was delightful. Then on to south end of elephant island where crew managed to get ramps and boats over port side. But rough, I told a fellow passenger I gave our chances at 20% of getting off boat. Well we did it totally bundled up.
A rough ride in zodiacs then through a passageway with I figure 8 foot waves crashing on rocks on both sides of us, then around a corner and into a tiny bay also with big waves. We were told the penguins above us on cliffs were macaroni penguins. Ok I will believe them as they were black and white, but I couldn’t hold the binoculars still to see. But definitely penguins hanging onto an exposed cliff side in the 35 knot winds.
Returned watching the zodiac behind us rise completely out of water, only the motor remaining unseen. Quite fun. Returned with everyone smiling. As Alex said welcome to Antarctica.
8 December 2016 just off coast of northern Antarctic peninsula
And onward passing Livingston island and its grand glaciers toward half moon bay and a chinstrap penguin colony. Those birds definitely deserve the cuteness award. On a scale of 10 they rank 10 and the closest thing even close would be a 4. Waddling along or dropping to their belly and to tobaganing along pushing with feet and rowing with flippers. Walked over a small pass having to give way to uphill penguin traffic. They get it in their mind where they want to go and if you are in way they just mill about until you move 2 feet off to the side they then proceed.
And the sun was out and a brilliant day. Walked the beach, just looking at waves, penguins, rocks, skuas, and Antarctic terms. Then returned for boat ride back to ship and time to take a zodiac cruise. Out into the bay and watched a humpback whale moving slowly about. Managed a good picture of diving with fin up.
Back to ship for lunch and motor onward to deception island whalers bay of Neptune caldera which is a volcanic caldera, last eruption being in 1969. The story goes this is the place in Jules vernes novel “20,000 leagues under the sea” where captain nemo had his base. In the novel he had to go through an underwater channel, in reality for us a delightful narrow entrance and quiet inside. Jeanne and I had signed up for the “long” hike up to the nipple on ridge line overlooking bay and outward back to Livingston island views to Antarctic peninsula. 3 kilometer rising to maybe 250 meters above sea level, but the views fantastic. Unfortunately as I walked the last bit up the rock to summit of the “nipple” I was yelled at to come down and unless I had a mountaineering certification I could show now, I was not allowed to go the last 3 meters to top. Alas. Hence we got back in line and marched onward up the ridge to avoid the snow fields and went down a gravel ridge.
Back to beach where steam rising from the heated waters of the volcanic caldera and those that wanted to could swim. I had thought temperatures would be freezing but had to balance out Arctic Ocean swim with southern ocean swim. Turns out temps were guessed at 4-5 degrees( maybe low 40s F). And most of us went in a couple of times, laying in the warm sand after. Returned with bragging rights.
Currently 7 am and cruising along Antarctic peninsula in Wilhimina bay in glorious sunshine and only 10-15 knot wind, temperature is 2 degrees c. Apparently bay we wanted earlier this morning was too ice choked, hence are looking for something different. But looks to be a great day. The mountains and glaciers here in Wilhelmina bay are absolutely stunning. Only in the Ruth gorge in Alaska have I seen such amazing views.
8 december 2016
Wilhelmina bay fabulous! Stuck the nose of ship into ice about 50 meters and we were off for a grand walk on the shore fast ice. Wedded, crabeater, and a leopard seal basking in the sunshine. Occasionally a penguin would march by, but most were standing on the ice bergs floating about. Would have been an absolutely fantastic ski across the flat pan.
Then back to ship with superb zodiac tour about the icebergs.
Today I opted to not carry camera pack and just put extra lens in pocket. Alas when I stepped aboard my leg hit pocket and knocked the 70-300 mm lens out and into the ocean it went, as I was right between zodiac and boarding platform. Three of us saw it and reached, but it was floating similar to a rock. Alas no more telephoto lens.
On to Orne bay and the actual mainland of Antarctica, which explains why it is so difficult to get to. Surrounded by by glaciers and ice falls going directly into the sea. They had a spot just wide enough to get the zodiac in and one could scramble up onto snow and zig zag a hill to a small pass overlooking the Gerlache straight which has a lot of ice. Another cruise ship heading north in it.
Guy gave us a super cruise back next to glaciers on way back to ship driving through the brash ice and up to glaciers. Incredible the amount of snow there is. I suspect the summit up on the snowfield feeding the glaciers it is hundreds of feet thick.
There were set of ski turns coming down and I thought wow some other cruise let someone ski. Looked like a nice ski 15 turns on a gentle slope, beautiful spring corn snow. We moved a few miles for anchorage as it was camping night. It was there I saw more ski tracks and a sailboat. Hence no cruise skis.
Last night was camping night for those opting for the one night event out on ice. We chose not to go as $400 for a night in tent on ice. But a first experience for many. I was surprise when watching the campers load in zodiacs there were two people with skis, but turns out they were not allowed to put them on, just stand there for a picture.
Guess we have been on here for a while little complaints sneaking in. Someone got splashed on zodiac and someone on landing stepped in over Their boot top on landing, requiring a quicker trip back to ship. The staff still is amazing trying to balance all our interests and needs, but as time goes on we seem to get a bit pickier.
And while I am moaning and groaning will note I have managed to obtain a cold. Lungs congested again and nose now giving me lots of exercise. 3 days now and each day I awake after a fitful night thinking it is better only to discover worse. But cannot give up any activity as only here once.
9 December 2016
Worked our way south into increasing ice, finally having to stop at 64 degrees 54 minutes when entire channel blocked. Spent an hour then started trip north, stopping at an island rarely visited due to usual bad weather. Useful island named from the whalers who came in here from the top could watch whales entering the Gerlache straight.
A nice hike to near top with lots of chinstrap and gentoo penguins plus the skuas cruising around.
A delightful zodiac cruise after admiring the infinite forms and shapes of ice bergs. Stunning.
And the cold (cough, fever, runny nose) continues: arggghhh
10 December 2016
Awoke again for 4th day in row thinking wow I think this illnes is getting better. But today seemed more hopeful. Did not start popping pills until at least up for 1/2 hour, then only thinking it just just preventative for later on hike ashore. As I right this it is noon and still very very much under the weather but surviving better.
Another great trip ashore and this time got to actually get to summit: no animals blocking way and guides said ok! Danco island in orne bay where we were a few days ago. Gentoo penguins marching up and down on their melted out highways. Penguins are so incredibly cut one can hardly stand it.
A zodiac ride back to ship to look up close at glacier coming off mainland but interrupted by a sleeping leopard seal on ice flow. Got with 5 meters and he could not have cared less. Mostly just sleeping , once raising his head but quickly returning to some sort of seal dreams I suppose.
Afternoon motored to the Malachi on islands for our final zodiac cruise, and it was a tremendous ending. Basically islands several meters across to I suppose a few kilometers, but all covered in glacier flowing to the water edge. My guess is a hundred meters plus in thickness but spectacular walls as the snow reaches the edge. Huge crevasses seen from below some would be completely unseen from the upper surface. Motored around for over an hour just sight seeing. They found a tiny inlet surrounded by glacier at the head of which was some fast ice (sea ice frozen and connected to land hence fastened ) of which there were 20 plus Weddell seals and one crab eater seal. Delightful viewing. Then return to the ship and begin our return trip north.
Was thinking if someone said let’s go for an open boat ride in prince William sound with the temperature right at freezing, wind blowing 15-20 knots I would say you are crazy. Here nearly everyone jumped at the chance. There is no such thing as bad weather just bad gear.
On another note Geoff noted it is only the three Alaskans who have no accent on this boat. I mentioned this to someone and they say d it is because we learned at the Sarah Pallin school of linguistics. Ok, I now have a major accent.
On the sickness front am down to only replaced handerkerchief once every 3 hours whereas it was every hour. Progress
and half way across drake passage and quiet. A bit of rolling but not bad
Made it across the supposedly roughest waters in the world and it was quiet. Apparently normally everything is on floor as nothing will stay up including people. Hmmm great trip.
And thus it ends. Back in Ushuaia. The above is sort of the daily log I tried to keep, but it comes not even close to representing the trip. The photos are mine except the above by Shayne the trip photographer and those where camera given to someone else photo me. The internet onboard was dialup speed and I felt the photos did more justice.