One should measure oneself not by ones dreams but the fulfillment of those dreams.

Bike dreams
Well we departed Xanten Germany with its 4000 years of history and found ourselves back riding the dikes along the river, occasional dropping down into a village or just riding along side, every once in a while climbing back to the top.  Once I thought I would rush up and rest, while waiting for Jeanne to catch up, but alas as I hit the summit 4 or 5 meters above where we had been and looked back to begin my rest; alas there was Jeanne right behind, just cruising along without a care.  So much for rest.  

Then we noted a beer garden ahead and beside it along side the road coming up to the dike was a German flag and on the other side of the road a Netherlands flag.  The border.  Barely a line and being European Union no control between countries, but a very distinct difference.  From the beer garden we heard German being spoken and at a bench on the Dutch side three people were speaking Dutch, which we had not as yet heard.  Only a political line but things change, hard for me to describe.  I never have figured out how come there is such a distinction just with an arbitrary line.

The dikes were shall I say neater, (maybe) and the bikes changed.  German bikes were cruisers and would easily be recognized in the United States as general bikes.   The bikes in Holland for the most part were more utilitarian, no fancy lightweight things but bikes built for everyday use to and from somewhere for something, often with baskets or boxes, almost always with kickstands, and full chain guards. (Bottom and top chain protector) one sits upright.  And still a large number of e bikes with little old fat ladies roaring past us.  

Then there were the road bikes.  We saw very few in Germany but now there were pelatons of 20 or so riders racing along in a whir.  Side by side and 10-15 deep.  But the track is a two lane track and they did not slow much for oncoming traffic which scared Jeanne a bit.  I usually kept riding to the right but Jeanne usually stopped and pulled off.  They were generally flying along at speed.

 
But in general it was a delightful afternoon.  Had reservations in the city of Nijmegan through booking.com and the GPS took us winding through some narrow streets.  On arrival from the countryside we joined numerous bike riders just going wherever in the city, along the bike path beside the road next to the sidewalk.  We are learning to watch the signal lights.  There are car signals, pedestrian signals, and bike signals, of which going the same direction can all be different.  More than once we wait

then a signal for bikes to go, it turns green but the pedestrian signal does not.  And when you hit the button often it does not just wait for the car signals to clear but gives a specific right of way to bike or pedestrian.  But

we rode into town with a continuous line of bikers going here and there.  But the GPS took us to the Prikkels sign which was our hotel except this was an ice cream shop.  I went in inquiring about the hotel and it was the right place, just no hotel sign, only ice cream, so I bought an ice cream cone.  Now this is a hotel.  

A delightful place only open as a hotel for two months and the steepest staircases yet to the second floor.  No wasted space on staircases here. 

  

  

 
   And another delightful evening wandering about and another superb meal.  Is there bad food anywhere along this trip? We have not found it

But booking rooms is becoming a necessity as we realize We cannot just wander about looking for a guesthouse, hotel or whatever as often we do not know what to look for.  And now getting closer to the end, hotels, seem difficult to find, so we agree to nearly 90 k tomorrow and get to Rotterdam in another 70 k.  Will be some of our biggest days.  

So we ride skipping the GPS directions and sticking to the dikes along the river and a ferry ride across to the north side and the city of Gorinchem and our first motel similar to ones along the freeway at home.  And no restaurants nearby except Macdonalds so we eat at the motel restaurant and it was bad.  Deep fried breaded stuff.  Went to Macdonalds for desert and coffee.  It was nice riding today but not our best day together, but only 80 k as overrode the GPS.  For whatever reason it does not like dikes even though it shows them and definitely does not like ferries.  

Then our last day riding through the city which is no problem as seems there is always a bike path.  The GPS often guides us through countryside in the midst of the city.  Delightful.  Over the bridge and the Rhein river is big here, especially when compared to 26 days ago between Andermatt and Disentis Switzerland.

I had concluded when putting in waypoints and for the map it was going to be a navigational day, and it was.  I can’t count the number of times I told Jeanne we are lost again.  4 ways of navigating, GPS, the map, directional bike signs for the route, and just heading downriver.  If 3 out of 4 agree that is good, but often total disagreement.  GPS wants the shortest without ferries, and today it shows a total of 150 kilometers getting near Rotterdam and going back to the last bridge at Gorinchem to cross to the north side, signs in Holland have become sporadic and one does not necessarily know if they point the route to the east or west.  And the map shows no detail but does show what may be a more scenic route which is where I get my GPS waypoints from.

And it was delightful, through little villages and out into the countryside of farm fields. On and on but getting lost and going backwards, generally having a great time just riding our bicycles.   

 
We had seen on the map an area which said national park.  Now what could be here to make a national park?  Well it turns out quite a lot.  We are in the delta area of which people told us the Rhein is not really a river at its mouth but a series of canals all over.  Well we came to the park headquarters and museum hidden in a mound of dirt.  DeBiesbosch National Park.   

     
A movie was shown in English and learned the history of the area from the year 1421 when work began on utilizing the area often flooded with either River floods or high storm tides from the ocean.  Over the centuries various things have worked well and harvest in the area were of the bull rush reeds then willows.  Complicated system of dikes, channels, canals were developed each changing the landscape and preserving a little bit.  Then in 1995 and 1996 there were floods which required more extensive work and large dams and holding areas were developed.  But people have realized with climate change the floods from the river will only increase and sea level is rising.  For a country below sea level that is not good, so a change in attitude is coming about.  They seem to realize you cannot just build the dikes higher and in the future they are going to give the river more room, not less, which means some farm country is going away.  

The park I believe translates to beaver national park and they have introduced beavers there to help with habitat, and apparently they are helping, but as noted time will tell.  It was a wondrous museum although mostly in Dutch, but pictures, artifacts, and diorama most helpful to our understanding.  And the mound of dirt did not look big from the outside but from the inside seemed huge.  

Then on taking a total of 4 ferries (which the GPS hated) one a bicycle, pedestrian only ferry across the Rhein.  Again we were wandering about the countryside going through the towns of Dordrecht and Papendrecht before approaching Rotterdam which the building are beginning to be seen some 16 kilometers to go.  (Did I mention there are no mountains here to block the view and it is flat). A most delightful ride winding our way about various canals.  

Then we find ourselves riding between two canals with old windmills all about.  The famous windmills.   

 

 
 
We ride for several kilometers the crowds getting thicker as we approach the other end.  Turns out this is a tourist area and it is Sunday afternoon and we heard Spanish, Japanese, German, Dutch and English languages.  From our end of entry it was free but from the other end there was a charge walk amongst the 20 or thirty windmills.  Awesome. They use the windmills to pump water to and from various canals and water systems.

Then another ferry ride and into Rotterdam.   
Be careful as pedestrian sidewalks, bike paths, trams, cars and all with separate signals.    

   
What a concept bikes have right of way.  Roundabouts with bike lanes.  But be careful bikes can move a speed and you must watch when crossing or stepping into a bike lane.  

But directed ourselves into town center which seemed to be the railroad station hoping to find a sign which said end of trail.  Instead we found some folks from Perth, Australia (who speak excellent English although Australian English) who took our picture at the end of the trail.   

 
Contrast to 

 
It has been quite a journey.

“real generosity to the future lies in giving all to the present.”

Albert Camus
Ok we stayed in the hotel at Meersburg exacting every inch of luxury out of it, staying until just past checkouts time of 10:30.  Actually quite delightful staying in the fancy hotel with little old ladies and their tiny dogs, brought to breakfast under the table.  I called various folks to update them on our progress – Günter, Bridgete, and Britta in Köln.  Then it was time and this time without a friend to guide us along, explain, translate, show us the way and generally provide some excellent companionship.  It was Jeanne and me and my limited German language skills.  

Wondered through the see side of Meersburg and found the ferry crossing to Kanstance and the southern side of the lake, which is where the main route goes.  We had detoured to the north side to visit Alfred, Bridgete, see Freidrichschafen and the Zeppelin museum, and Germany is the north side, tugs avoiding the expense of Switzerland.  We found the Euro15 and Swiss route 2 route signs marking the bicycle route, and we were back in business. 

Navigating the route is simple but like any navigation can be misled easily.  There are bike way signs frequently and nearly every corner.  One just has to be aware and find them.  Then I have the Garmin GPS with Europe cycling routes loaded in, and Alfred loaded the GPX tracks in.  But the problem is even though it is supposed to reroute when off course it still wants me to visit every waypoint, even backtracking to it.  I just restart from current location.  Thus navigation is a combination of things – GPS, signs, the maps and guide books (all in German) and the tried and true method of we are going downriver.  

The interesting part is Jeanne does not have a competitive bone in her body but often ends up in front and I have to chase her down for a missed turn or course correction.  She focus’s on riding and sometimes forgets to look for the signs.

It was delightful riding mostly on bike path, just cruising along.  We agreed before the ride to go approximately 60 kilometers a day and now we agreed to start looking about 4 pm for a place to stay.  We want to just see how it feels.  If one has reservations one must either be there and it is a long day or a short day.  

We made it to Diessenhofen on the Swiss side and Gallingen on the German side with a Swiss town apparently built in midevil times 1500-1600) and the bridge  in 1814-1815.

 
We agreed to stop but did not want to cross in Switzerland.  But Gailingen was definitely at the top of hill, thus we roads down the trail along river for a bit but realized no guest houses were forthcoming so back and climbed the hill.  

Ended up at first guesthouse we came to for 60€ and took it with shared bath and shower.  Overlooked town square and delightful.  Sat out on terrace where wifi was available and drank a delightful beer.  Then on to a restaurant for dinner deciding to try somewhere else to eat.  Lovely outdoor restaurant with incredible food.  Am loving this restaurant which is leisurely.  Dinner was nearly 3 hours long. Sit, talk, drink, enjoy and oh yes savor some delightful food.  Not rushed in the least.  I remember coming back from South America and going to a German restaurant in Plano, Texas and feeling rushed through, like the restaurant was a factory.    Here it feels comfortable to just order a beer and sit and enjoy even if it takes hours.  

But onward.  Breakfast at the guesthouse (included) and down the hill back to the Rhein route, and toward Schaffhausen and the Rhine Falls, a major attraction.  People told us it is no Niagra falls but it is spectacular.  I have not seen Niagra falls and it is not high on my list but waterfalls are each one wonderful and different.  The Rhine here averages 22000 cubic feet per second so is a big river and the falls are impressive.  

 

 

  

One incident nearly disastrous when we came up to an intersection on the road.  We were behind a car and traffic ligh from the road we were to join, but I could not see one for our direction.  I figured I just could not see it and waited behind the car in front.  He took off and I thought I saw the oncoming cars light turn red but when I reached the middle of street a car was bearing down on me from the right with no apparent desire to stop. I was at speed now turning left and a car was coming from the right with also no apparent desire to stop.  I made it, but what the $:&!?)&.  Alas things are different here.  There was a light on main road but none from the road we came from.  The car in front had seen a clearance and took it.  Unfortunately it was not a green light and I nearly changed our trip.

Then on stopping at grocery store for lunch supplies.  More fun to just stop and picnic at trail side.  The grocery store had well used bicycle parking right at the door.  The carts were locked and you put a coin in and it unlocked the chain.  When done you return the cart reconnect the chain and your coin is returned.

 

 

 
Then onward thinking we might get to Waldshut but probably not.  Well soon we were riding along the Rhein route alongside the river riding watching people swim and enjoy the water.  The river is incredibly clean and apparently great to swim and boat, although we have not tried as yet.  

Then we were at Waldshut and it was hot, and the town center is uphill, from the trail along the river.  Before we knew it we had passed it by, although now looking and the heat becoming oppressive in the 80s with humidity.  And no hotels, all full.  Waldshut was at about 50 kilometers for the day and after numerous stops and side trips and questions and heat and very tired, we made it to Luttingen a very tiny village before Laufenburg.  Numerous hotels and guest houses and people had told us places ahead and given directions and distances.  Almost all were wrong.  No more than 200 meters was 2 kilometers, 2 kilometers was 4 and sometimes there was nothing there.  Alas part of the adventure but we were hot tired and cranky, but I might add still getting along.  

We went a total of 76 kilometers when the Hotel Kranz turned up, and it was delightful.  Good beer, good shower, good wifi, and very pleasant staff.  Seems every place we stay (except the one in  Tamins, before Chur) the staff has been very excited and appreciative when we like it.  It is as if they are personally involved, and not just a job.  

They said part of the reason the hotels are full in this area is it is holiday time, but also the nuclear plant requires yearly maintenance and it is done in August. So hotels full of the workers.

Another incredible dinner and meal and talked with three ladies also riding the Rhein route but going up to the Bodensee where one has a sister living.  They commented how the river is very clean now which was not true 20-30 years ago.  Perhaps the world is realizing we cannot just dump our waste.

And she mentioned she had been to the United States and found it disconcerting all the lakes were private access.  Here it is public all along the beach and accessible.  (Think Lake Tahoe, California, Flathead Lake in Montana, Kenai river in Alaska, or even Kenai Fjords National Park. All private beach access) Folks have come to realize the importance of nature and access here, not just who has the money and the rest of you stay away.  (I had the same complaint when riding the great divide 3 years ago).  Alas!

 

 
Then today and not wanting to get burned again with no hotel picked one from booking.com hoping it to be about 60 K away.  Some said it was 40 to Basel the maps said 55 so whatever.  We opted for Weil am Rhein because it was in Germany and avoided Switzerland and we could shortcut bypassing the city.  Could have stayed in St.Louis France but that meant going through Basel.  

 

  

  

  

  

 
And a delightful day even though the temperature did hit 37 degrees on my Garmin. (High 90s Fahrenheit for those still using that old system) we could never tell where we would be riding sometimes along a great forest road along the river sometimes small villages and near Basel forests and below train overpasses.  Criss crossed the river numerous times sometimes in Switzerland (did not have to buy anything) and Germany finally crossing into Germany for final time just before the hotel. We did 57 kilometers and arrived at the delightful time of 2:30. Sweating and tired but the room is huge and we have been downing Radlers (half lemon aid and half beer) and straight beer.

The beer here in Germany is great, but almost always local.  Not a microbrew with numerous choices of tastes, but a Hefeweizen or sometimes and ale.  It is made and sold only regionally.  But always good.  I remember living in Germany for a few months in 1967 and coming home.  My dad offered me a beer when home either an Olympia or a Coors and I remember saying “What is this?”.  Made me glad I was underage and did not have to drink that stuff.  Have disliked “those beers” ever since.  So many choices in the world why drink bad beer.

And we now have gone 483 kilometers of the supposed 1300 for the entire route.  Our map says this past part was 435 kilometers although we we on the north side of Bodensee and did go to Alfred’s and Bridgete.  One article said it was 250 kilometers.  Whatever we had fun and a third of the way.