Zanzibar

To die for a religion is easier than to live it absolutely.

Jorge Louis Borges

After a delightfully relaxing 3 days at the beach, we headed to town. In this case the island is Zanzibar and stone town, established in the 1500’s, taken over by Arabs. Most famous as the official eastern port for the slave trade, finally abolished in 1876 it served Europe and Asia. Ghana on the west coast served north and South America.

Hotel Tembo
From our balcony

The first night out we went out to eat at the night market. As Cindy describes it , 4 parts entertainment and 1 part food. And I might add delicious food. Reminded me of pikes market in Seattle, but not so sedate, very active. Pikes market on steroids. I got so many hugs from the cooks and hand shakes, and was well taken care of. I finally settled on lobster and prawns with garlic chipati, all barbecued exquisite. The cook made sure I had a seat to eat at. Great fun, but one must have energy for such activity and it is hot. (Upper 30’s(low 90’s) with humidity)

Jeanne breaking sweat
Food market chefs
Evening food market

Next day began with walking tour of stone town. With markets, vendors, narrow streets, intricate doors ( each tells a story of inhabitants and history)

We walked through the meat markets fish, beef chicken. A bit smelly but delightful,with fresh fruits and spices. I did learn there are 19 essential spices of which 18 are grown on Zanzibar. (The exception is saffron).

Fish market
Stone town streets

Then the slave market, oh my humanity near its worst. We went into the room where they weeded out the weak. A closed room maybe 4 meters by 4 (13 feet). No light and no ventilation of which 50 men in chains were placed. No food or water and at the end of 3 days those left alive were sent to the whipping post. The amount you cried out determined somewhat where you went.

Slave market memorial
Great museum (this was last display describing slavery yet going on in the world )
Street side shade
Stone town doors

That afternoon we drove to a spice farm. 10 hectares and they grow numerous spices there. Afraid I was very hot and my brain absorbed minimal, but fascinating. Ginger, cloves, pepper, numerous fruits, turmeric, coriander, etc. at the end of walkabout stall set up for buying. And a demo of coconut harvest. Amazing way to climb a tree. Wraps a cord between ankles and I suppose that makes the feet hold the tree, although our demo person was a total showman removing the strap and cavorting free. When finished they treat us to fresh coconut(milk and meat), watermelon (oh so good), papaya, and of course bananas. (Not cavendish). We received crowns, and ties from banana leaves. The kids came around and are kids. We had a good time.

Coconut harvester. (They can only work between age 14 and 24 then age out. Bones do not heal as well after that)
Coconut harvest
Capturing the show
Spice market/farm
Spice market kids
Departing stone town

Flew to Dar es Salaam, the biggest city of 4 million where 5 people departed for home. There are now 8 of us including Daude going to Gombe to look at chimpanzees, in Gombe stream national park. Daude has never been there so Cindy is treating him to a new experience.

Another African sunset
Daude and J. R. (One good looking one ??)

Hakuna Matata

We can know only that we know nothing. And that is the highest degree of human wisdom.

Leo Tolstoy

Delightful three days, very different than safari and game drives. Jeanne asked me what I thought of this portion of trip- to which I had to reply, very glad of it, because showing a different view of Tanzania, from animals. Beach life and well it is beach life.

Flew from Arusha to wherever this is on coast, arriving at nice grass strip and met by lodge with van and trailer to haul us to lodge. At the lodge met us with fresh coconut drink then ate the coconut meat. Seems all the lodges meet you on arrival, as if you are the most important person in the world.

Pagani international airport
Getting instructions, directions of lodge. No escort at night needed
Our room has a wash basin outside so can wash sand from feet. Has a lock on door if desired but windows are open air. Staff comes in in evening and lowers mosquito nets and come/ in in morn and raises. Shower toilet sink etc behind white wall

So for three days now we have resided beside the Indian Ocean. The day breeze is awesome due to heat. Our group is from alaska and definitely having trouble in heat. Up to mid 30’s C (90’sF) cooling to 26 (78f ) at night. Fans are heavily used by us at night, as the day breeze quits. Again though the sunrises are amazing

Sunrise
Sunrise photo by ray

We have have had activities each day but not the go go of safari. Today walked up the beach into mangrove area at low tide. Amazing interactions, animals plants life importance to the world and biome conservation. Dave and I continued on to point about 5 k down beach. Very nice walk with breeze but sun still blasting down.

Yesterday out to the island about 3 k offshore. Just a sand island which is covered by a high high tide. But 4 hours snorkeling. Always amazing to see tropical fish and coral even if not of high quality. And fun being in water.

Snorkeling
Quite exciting to me

Walk through the local town interesting. Repairing boats, utilizing mango wood. All hand sawn and bent if needed in a hot pool. Nailed and cotton packing.

Boat repair
Water bath for wood and mango wood behind
Hauling in the fish catch after drying
Dagga fish drying facility

Mangroves low tide

I

Beach boat
Our dinner service – lights on horizon are fishing boats
Birthday party
Local resident
Kids everywhere are curious
Another baobab tree
My sister sent this Gary Larsen cartoon after I inundated her with pictures

Thus it has been a delightful three days, but am feeling the urge to move on. Tomorrow we fly to Zanzibar. We are staying at stone town where the colonist of Africa began the destruction of the modern world with the shipment of slaves from stone town.

Apparently Zanzibar is a hot spot for beaches as there is night life there. Geez we have night life. Here celebrating a birthday staying up until almost 8:30.

Venue change

We can know only that we know nothing. And that is the highest degree of human wisdom.

Leo Tolstoy

Ok now in process of moving from western Tanzania with Serengeti and animals to the east and Zanzibar with a whole new culture. On the Indian Ocean and beach. Yesterday flew from Serengeti to Arusha where spent night at lodge stayed at on 2nd night out. hence yesterday on arrival while others went shopping I loaded four days of writing.

Nagasaki lodge from our balcony

Here are a few pictures I may have already posted or not. numerous of these photos were taken with iPhone as easier to work than the bigger camera and definitely could get close in the vehicle. Animals have habituated to the cars.

Vervet baby
Did-dik (smallest antelope at 5 kg (12 lbs)
Wildebeast (apparently god made this from leftover spare parts- back from hyena, beard from old man, horns from cow, tail from horse, kegs from antelope)
Lioness
Blue lizard

Hippo and babe returning to water for the day. (They don’t eat in the water just get out of the sun. Their vision is very bad so they wander distinct paths at night and if you are in the way too bad, hence one of the most dangerous animals killing more people than any other animal with the exception of humans and mosquitoes (malaria))
Hippo pool lodge
Daude & Simon our awesome guides
Another sunrise
Ostriches (seeing these animals outside a zoo is amazing. One can see them move and feed in natural habitat with room to move)

And so we move on. Another flight this pm and a new adventure. Hope all is well with you.

Drive north

The only lasting truth is change

Octavia spencer

A long day started 6 am listening to lion roaring seemingly outside our tent. But turns out was 2 k away. When up for coffee Simon says let’s go find lion so we did. Amazing.

Just outside camp
Still sunrise
Jeanne and meal tent
Chameleon from yesterday walk
Chameleon hiding

Finally depart about 8:45 and arrived here at north end of Serengeti park about 5:40. Very hot lots of animals. Wildebeast going on forever. A lion kill hyena tearing apart the remains with jackal and vultures going for whatever. Rhinoceros, and at end of day hippo pool with about 100 hippo spending the day in water.

Giraffe
Migration. We sat here 45 minutes and it did not diminish horizon to horizon. There are 2 1/2 million Wildebeast in the Serengeti which is 5760 square kilometer (about 3500 square miles. )
Hyenas vultures on Wildebeast taken by lion earlier. (We know it was a lion as saw it as hyenas took it away)
Hippo pool
Hippo pool they sleep during day and graze on shore at night.
Arrival at hippo camp

Now exhausted as was very Hot.

Day three Serengeti

Those who dwell among the beauties and mysteries of the earth are never alone or weary of life

Rachel Carson

A most pleasant day. Walk in am again not quite three miles chameleon, dung beetles, ants, giraffes, dik-disks,termites. Lunch and Cindy had us collect grasses and estimate numbers of species. We split into 4 groups and each group came up with 12-15 different grasses. But what was interesting was each group had sort of different grasses. Basically a lot of species of grass.

Morning coffee from Haguy our cook
Dung beetle. Male rolls female rides
Game drive
Giraffe
Serengeti (ostriches in there)

Another game drive this pm with lots of giraffes, Wildebeast, grants gazelle, ostriches and usual lots of birds I cannot seem to remember or I’d list except ostrich, and secretary birds. Numerous of the birds are big like 1/3 meter to 2 meters.

Secretary bird
Zebra and eland

A game of charades mimicking organisms we have seen and what they are doing, mine was giraffe eating acacia, and the other was a flamingo feeding.

Grass organizing
Cheetah
Charade
People dinner

Serengeti has been wonderful just having an endless horizon. And the solitude.

The circle of Life. (Serengeti day 2 continues)

He who knows all the answers has not been asked all the questions

Confucious

Well the dilemmas continue. Tourism is it good or bad? Vouyeristic tourism

A wondrous afternoon and departed at 4 in search of a cheetah, driving a lot, wild cross country.

Saw a lone Wildebeast calf. Which began following us. Apparently somewhat common, as if imprint on mother does not occur within that 15 minutes when they can walk and run they will follow anything. Birth can be interrupted by a predator or whatever. The calf will then follow anything, have even been seen to follow a lion. It followed us for a while, and all agreed it would not make it through the night, unless it found a herd of Wildebeast, of which we saw none.

We did see a cerval cat and a family of black backed jackals and a mess of hyena. And managed to get stuck but other truck came along and just gave us a push.

Stuck (winches are useless as no where to fasten)

Then we started to return to camp. Doudee saw a cat way off in distance. Turns out a cheetah and we followed it a bit, then got a bit ahead as cat sat down and rested. Doudee thought it was full from just eating. But then along comes the Wildebeast calf. Totally unexpecting it was a very short chase and the calf was down. And for the next 36 minutes we watched and filmed the cat begin its dinner. Simon says it was in a hurry because there were hyena around and they would come in and chase the cheetah away, so the cat had to eat rapidly. Meaning the calf was not dead with an occasional moan and squeal and kick.following is a video and if queezy do not watch.

Totally oblivious Wildebeast calf
Dinner
Sunset storks

The sun was beginning to set and and the storks went into the trees to roost. Got some I believe incredible sunset pictures to complement the sunrise pictures.

After dinner

Day 2 Serengeti

It’s kind of fun doing the impossible

Walt Disney

Sunrise
Camp sunrise continues

Interesting – awoke to absolutely first light gorgeous sunrise out tent door. I say no mountains to block the view. Breakie and off for a hike, 3 kilometer taking 3 1/2 hours looking at sign but no big animals except giraffe. But dung beetles (quite entertaining), harvester ants and the ants in galls of whistling acacia. Now having a delightful quiet time over an hour seemingly the biggest break of able to relax. Just sitting and looking. Possibly maybe figured out why camera is running through battery. (I chose the camera with AA batteries rather than rechargeable).

Turned off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth on the camera.

Concerning gear quite happy with gear packed so far. Concerning camera camera I had 5 to choose from. Each had its attributes I played with all chose this one Nikon cool pix 500 and I thinking working better than I give it credit for Important thing concerning gear is play with it first and know how it works.

A very nice break for lunch

Away we go

Only those who dare to fail greatly can ever achieve greatly.

John F Kennedy

Ok because of no internet or Wi-Fi or communication in our remote camp in southern Serengeti I wrote each day but could not post. Hence here back in Arusha I am posting basically each day’s consecutively. I would label each day date but have not a clue what day it is, and have no interest in that. As usual there are errors which are mine because of either typing or I heard something different than what was actually explained. Feel free to correct me in comments

Well another great day although a bit of diarrhea or maybe just upset stomach feeling much better now. So really only one day if it extends no farther But day a little off just feeling other riders.

But made it here not sure how Simon and doudee navigated as no gps no mountains, and endless plains, which happens to be what Serengeti means. Endless plains. A lot of off-road and unsure how I feel about that but it was fun I confess. Doudee is a great driver but others feel they must give advice.

Oldepye gorge where we all came from

At one. point came across car very stuck in mud. Amazing how it looks very solid but a few tracks and it is a mud hole. These were rangers who had gotten lost. But amazing as I only had an inkling of direction.

Driving on the Serengeti

But again the amazing part was the animals thousand and thousands of Wildebeast. Seemingly always in motion. Calves running jumping and kicking being babies. Apparently they can be up and running within 15 minutes of birth at full speed. With lions hyenas leopards and anything else no wonder. One area the Wildebeast a were walking the beach of a lake which was filled with pink flamingos. Then they came to a narrow section and they had to cross which they just kept going.Amazing with the zebras mixed in, but when the zebras reached the crossing the zebras all held back. Doudee says because they are waiting to see if safe from crocodiles or whatever. ( there are no crocodiles in this lake. ). Also mixed in we’re Thompson’s gazelle and grants gazelle, and saw 4 big elan. Before we reached the treeless plain there were the forest of acacia trees with numerous giraffe. Seeing the animals is not a maybe you will see but how many. Maybe for leopard and rhinoceros but others common. And saw some lions today and a fair number of hyena.

Along road between ngorongoro and Serengeti national parks. Masai land
Wildebeast and zebra crossing
Lion and lioness
Giraffe
Coming into camp
Home for three nights

And a visit to Oldevie (actually mispronounced and misspelled oldepye)gorge, some of original anthropology and archeology was done to find homo erectus. Interesting.

Again a tent camp. Nice. Currently it is 9:15 and can hear crickets but also Wildebeast not far. And may have just heard a lion. We are instructed ok to go out and pee, but before going out scan with flashlight first for eyes if seen go back inside. Especially if red eyes. Yellow ok as Wildebeast or gazelle but red is lion leopard or hyena.

Ngonongoro crater

Most people rush after pleasure so fast they rush right past it.

Søren Kierkegard

Quite a day. This crater is listed as a wonder of the world. Apparently 25000 animals live within its bounds. Left early at just before 7 and ip to crater rim, which was quite cloudy, but I was thorough enjoying the jungle with tall trees as be thick undergrowth. Rim is about 2250 meters ((7500 feet) and crater just over 1500 meters(5000). A plain without trees and size of crater is 960 square kilometer (360 sw miles)

Wildebeast
Ngonongoro crater

It is a nature preserve as and very well controlled. One cannot get out of car except at designated spots for any reason. We were warned our drivers can be ticketed even for emergency bathroom stop. Makes sense as these are wild animals right at car. Many photos taken with just phone camera from window. Keep in mind our vehicles you can stand up in. And two of the animals seen today are in the top ten list of dangerous animals. (Hippopotamus and Cape buffalo, sorry alaska, bears do not come close. Folks commented on the amount of exercise and calories burned showing on our fitbits and exercise recorders. Mine showed I walked 8000 steps and 7 km.

Other animals seen were rhino, elephants, hyenas, jackals, lions, hare, Thompson and grants gazelles, elan, water buck, warthogs, baboons, monkeys, and those are the ones I remember. Then there are the birds oh my. Vultures, ibis, Flamingo, hawks, stilts, storks, herons, starlings, on and on. 17 new species for me today on top of 72 in past days. Both Simon and douse are excellent birders, and incredibly patient. You can ask them the name of that bird when you know you have already asked twenty times on same bird, and they as answer each time as if were the first. As Doug says “I may be old, but I am slow”

Thompson gazelle (although maybe grants)
Grey crowned crane
Cape buffalo
Spotted hyena
White headed vulture? On fresh Wildebeast carcass
Maribou Storks foraging
Jungle near rim
Yep
Wildebeast

And thus tonight we are on crater rim at 7400 feet and supposedly cold. Maybe low 30’s ( 70’s Fahrenheit) tomorrow head to oldapai Borge and history of humans then on to Serengeti for next three days. We shall see what is to come

Baboon

Gig go go

Many of us have been running all our lives. Practice stopping.

Thich Naha Hahn

Morning here dark for another hour. Want to get out early to climb into the ngorongoro crater where apparently there are 25000 elephants, rhinos, buffalo, and who knows what.

Yesterday a drive reverse of going there. Rough in beginning ending in pavement stopping for lots of birds. I identified and saw 15 new species. Amazing birds.

Feeling bad about the bad writing on previous blog. Little explanations. Sorry. But primarily it was Hadza. They are a hunter gatherer tribe, one of 5 or 6 left in the world. They do have contact but limited. They can go to school but one fellow had returned after school. He liked the lifestyle better. Interesting but as I noted I would starve.

Anyway off again shortly have a very short window of Wi-Fi here.