“We either make ourselves miserable, or we make ourselves strong. The work is the same.”
Carlos Castaneda

The Bike-Dreams folks arrived past Tuesday afternoon, today being Friday, and all were exhausted. They had had a rough past few days. Looked like I feel after pushing hard in a race. All they wanted was to wash the mud off from three days riding and camping, communicate with the world outside, and have a three day rest.

Well 40 people quickly overloaded all systems. Water shut down in the entire area, hence not only no hot water but no cold water either. Not just the hotel here (Carlos V) but several nearby hostels. A few people went looking elsewhere for alternate habitations. For me not much of problem all though I had to remember not to flush the toilet as it would not refill. (I had a bit of diarrhea, my roommate Buck waiting in the hallway saying I smelled like a barnyard). Water returned that evening.

The previously very slow internet was quickly a very sporadic affair with everyone catching up on emails, blogs, texts, phone calls and the necessities of modern life. At home am used to 15 GByte downloads and 10 GByte uploads, whereas here under best of circumstance 8 Megabit upload and 0.8 Mb download. And when all connected with a minimum of two devices (phone, tablet, computers), well I
shall say it became unreliable. Apparently Max as a hobby comes in and straightens out the wireless mess in the hotels helping it along. He cannot improve the hardware speed, but can clean it up a bit, making it work better.

Folks are definitely nice people. Languages flowing, Dutch, German, English, Spanish, French, and I suspect others I did not recognize or hear. All outgoing and welcoming. But tired and they were on a mission to get themselves and clothes clean.

The laundromats here are numerous and advertise 2 or 4 hours, but I have not understood the 2 or 4 format. I think what it means is 2 and 4 together means 24 hours, although sometimes it can mean the same day if brought in early. But the important part is clothes come back clean and folded, costing 4 sols (about $1.20) per kilo.

Most folks left for two days to sacred valley and Machu Picchu. Jeanne and I had done that tour last week, hence I did not repeat. I had two days here pretty much alone to wander about Cusco. But I have been wandering about Cusco for two weeks now and for me getting anxious to ride. Did a nice ride up in hills to town of Q’ orea. The spent time sitting in park thinking of the memory of Joe Molitor. His funeral was Tuesday and Wednesday.

Picked up laundry for folks gone on the two day tour, and created little errands for myself. Yesterday went to find a new rear bike light as one I brought does not work. The shops here seem to consolidate a particular type of shop in same area. Printers, office supply, etc., discos are in the area where our hotel is. Found the bike shop in area of chain saw shops. Turns out it was a great shop with a full variety of parts. Had my choice of four different lights.

Helped Lucho (the mechanic) with bike repairs. He is Peruvian and was once the national champion of Peru on bicycles. He lives on the coast which the group visited earlier in trip. I guess he threw quite a party, when they stayed at his village. He is famous for opening his house and helping bicycle riders. His English is very limited so was interesting helping and learning from him. My Spanish leaves a lot to be desired. He rebuilt a couple of bikes including wheels which the hubs were done for. Brakes, cleaning, tires changed, derailleurs adjusted, new cables as needed, the list potential repairs goes on and on. And a variety of bikes including some 27.5 and 29 inch. Had been advised against those due to availability of parts. Apparently the 29 inch tires were available in past weeks but the tubes were exceedingly difficult to find. Interesting to see the number of bikes and kinds, full touring, cross, front fork type suspension or not, handlebars, disk or caliper brakes. Full variety. Folks are changing tires because leaving the big mountains and gravel mud for more developed highways, at least for a while.

Again I have not met a bike which could not teach me something new, and the same goes for a mechanic. Very interesting watching and helping Lucho work. Even changing tires I learned new different techniques for setting a difficult bead. (Involves a door). Always something to learn no matter how basic.

Dinner with Max at a Polloria out of the tourist area. Choices were 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 or a full roasted chicken with potatoes. (French fries). About $3.00 for a 1/4 chicken with lemonade. And more perspectives from another person on “the ride”. Everyone has their viewpoint, especially the race part. I will have to decide for myself.

Officially this is a stage race. 107 stages with me joining in at stage 39. Turns out only about 10 folks are really “racing” with only 1 “James”really going for it. The numbers of people racing vary. Remainder not really racing, but still I suspect faster than me. Steve Aberle said in a comment recently to remember the reason we ski raced. “To make the others look good!” Somebody has to do it.

The sag wagon is available for a ride but one must decide prior when to taking the truck, morning or afternoon. Ride in morn, then get out at lunch and bike, or bike in morning and get in truck for afternoon. Important thing is finish by about 4 as dark at 5:30-6 and sunrise same. Tomorrow’s ride is 122 kilometers with 1086 meters of elevation gain, and day after is 159 K.

Breakie this morn, actually twice, once at our hotel of the usual rolls, jam, butter, coffee and fresh juice. Then off to a proper breakfast (as we Americans like) with eggs, bacon and the previous breakfast ingredients repeated. I understand the food on this ride is like our first continental type with the addition of muesli. Then all were off in varying directions; James for bike parts, Michelle and Liz to explore Saqsaywaman, another good Inca site just up the hill from hotel which Jeanne and I visited on one of our first days here, Rein to hospital for his second rabies injection from dog bite earlier in trip. ( Two thus far to hospital on this trip).

And as Buck says amazing how fast the time goes. I am enjoying the downtime, although I do not really need it now, but the next months are going to be full and tiring. Talked with Michelle who is also staying in Ushuaia at end for a few days. She says she feels she will want to just sit and do little in the days after this ride. My thoughts also, but also thought I will not be getting to Ushuaia very often, so best see it while I can. Hence I am staying 4 days longer than necessary. Michelle is heading for a 12 day tour in Antarctica. She went to Galapagos prior to start filly utilizing vacation. Me, I will be headed for Christmas in Dallas.

Thus tomorrow my riding begins. We have two what they call bush camps then two nights of hotel before reaching Copacabana, Bolivia and our next rest day. Bush camps are just us camping, as opposed to an official campground. Looking forward to it. Concerning this blog I will try and write keeping up, and posting as Internet allows.

And so the saga continues. Currently at aguas calientes. A tourist town about 2000 feet below macchu Picchu. It is part of our entire lares trek from previous blog. And I continue somewhat chronologically.

Slept in next to hot springs till about 6:15 ( usual was 5 am up). A leisurely morning the cook had made a special cake for breakfast. And a quinoa drink which was delicious but no one could figure ingredients. And remember none of us speak Spanish and for once Reuben was not much help.

Onto the bus and as soon as u boarded I knew it was going to be rough. Having spent a lot if time in small planes I was as ready as I could ever be. Discovered a new meaning of fun. Holding a leaky plastic bag full of vomit for three hours down a winding gravel mountain road. Now that is fun hog material. The cold past days developed fully. Jeanne was there trying to help and others passed more bags as none were waterproof. But no rest for the weary, had to catch a train to agua calientes. Which we did I found a trash for my extra luggage and boarded a very nice tourist train for 1 1/2 hours descending to 6600 feet. Now in jungle. I spent time in train bathroom for those interested.

Arrived and 10 minute walk to hotel. I went straight to bed thinking the two flights of stairs were harder than the pass yesterday. Went straight to bed as we had 4 hours of free time to explore the town. Jeanne went to find password for internet. Very shortly I heard crying and knew immediately.

Jeanne’s dad Joe Molitor passed away yesterday about noon. He was 91 and it was not necessarily unexpected but it still hurts. He was a simple man who lived his family, and he loved St. Louis. It did matter where we were as long as the family was together. And Bud Lites.

Jeanne’s worst nightmare came true. She was hoping to not have him gone when we were gone. We had agreed to not return if such a thing happens but reality changes things. So we got Reuben from Llama trek and 2 1/2 hours after arrival reservations on trAin to urotombo where can from llama path will pick her up and return to cusco arriving about 11 pm. Travel insurance was able to help change her return reservations to the states and St. Louis.

So my partner left in a way unexpected and not as we hoped. She is within 2000 feet of macchu Picchu, and really wanted to meet the bike people when in cusco next week. Alas one has to expect change.

So I lie here in bed others on tour, at dinner but I am not eating due to stomach. Alas. Alarm for 5 am t o catch ride to macchu Picchu and climb if wayna Picchu.

Alas I miss Jeanne it was not the departure we wanted but then departures are weird.

Thinking of Joe Molitor and the numerous stories. Loved to barbecue. rest in peace you are with the love of your life Rose Molitor.

Signed up for this trek as inca trail sold out six months in advance. (Reservation permit system due to numbers). This one billed as just as nice but without the hoards of people.

It was very nice 4 couples including Jeanne and I. Others Erin and Dave from Washington D. C., Dorothea and Josh from New York City, and Marta and Gisseppe from Rome but currently living in New York, getting ready to transfer to London. All fun people much younger than us but that does not take much. Turns out Marta and Gisseppe have never been hiking or camping. This was first experience. Well Llama path was great providing food, tents, warm water bowl for washing at tent on awakening. Five porters, cook, and guide. Five donkeys to carry all but our day packs. Food was amazing, not just hot but three meals inside wall tent chairs table. Start with soup usually a quinoa something and awesome then elegantly prepared main course of a variety if things. And always hot tea and clean water for the trail ;do not drink Peruvian water. And the guide Reuben. Great at helping us and telling history. ( a huge story in itself). He is one of 10% of Peruvians who follow the Andean religion. 80% are Catholic, 30% practicing, and 10% other often seventh day Adventist. But the religion has always been interesting to me. But weird. Do not get me started.

Well, turns out one of the harder hikes I have ever done. (Remember Marta and Gisseppe). Started out with bus ride of about 2 1/2 hours starting at 5 am. Great breakfast of juice pancakes coca tea rolls and other stuff I forget. Then 8 miles up starting at about 11000 feet riding to our camp at 14,100. Everyone but Jeanne and I had only two days acclimatization. Lunch it began to pour rain then hail temp about 7-8 C. Then back on trail rain stopped but a bit of drizzle. By the time we reached camp we all were pooped. But happy hour if popcorn and tea brought to tents where everyone but me was laid out. Gisseppe having difficulty with altitude the worst; severe headache , and any movement severe nausea. A bit concerning. Dinner and we collapsed. On one of my 4 trips to bathroom stars came out and saw old friend constellation if Orion, but knew no others and it was freezing. I think Jeanne and I were only ones who slept.

In morning Gisseppe was seriously thinking of going down due to feeling horrible but managed to get breakfast and felt a but better. Onward and upward. Through about 2″ of snow rising eventually to 15850 feet at pass mountains above us. That was 2 miles then down 10 miles to about 10000 feet

I thought of brother in law, Steve Penner who says “any day in the snow adds two weeks to your life”. Well I have added 4 weeks to my nursing home life.

Hiking up I ended up in front. It worked out every was there at some point not that it was a big deal. I was in front huff puffing my way up thinking I am slowing everyone down with my incredibly slow pace. Breath step breath Repeat. I looked back and others I thought I was slowing down were a hundred meters back. Finally the top and then the descent. Always fun descending from high altitude. Breathing gets easier the plants reappeared beautiful alpine lakes and gnarly steps. This trail has been used for well over a thousand years. Lunch finally about 2 at a village with llama grazing about. People beginning to plant potatoes. One potato at a time.

The about a four mike part road part trail to the lares hit springs. Arriving after dark exhausted. Reuben herding his charges with great finesse. Keeping us going. My nose is running like crazy having felt a cold coming on for several days. The hot springs were awesome with large pools of a variety of temperatures. We camped right next to them. We all were pooped.

But a note on the local kids. Obviously they have very little. I realize everyone in the United States is rich. I did not remotely say happier. But life at altitude is tough even if you are adapted to it. And now tourism is a part with Trekkers hiking through there pastures, fields,and villages. So when kids see tourists they come out to watch not necessarily expecting anything but it has become a custom. Reuben advised against candy, the usual gift, but instead notebooks and or paper and pencils. When given they thanked us profusely but again were not demanding. And ever so cute in their sandals and wide eyes. Sandals are the shoe of choice whether economic or they just like. But bare feet in the snow. Heard ing donkeys , llama, sheep, or planting crops. A delightful place.

I would include pictures but alas afraid internet is very marginal here at aguas calientes.
But more in next blog. Had to break this up.

Tour of lake titicaca continues. Only way out here to the islands is on a tour with the masses, but delightful.

Slow boat to one of floating islands. These were made famous, for me at least with Thor Heyerdahl’s book Kon Tiki as this was where he got the reeds for the boat. These islands are floating with maybe 6-7 huts on them. The islands are as expected a bit squishy but solid lasting about 30 years when a new one is made. Boats are reed and appear very sea worthy. For10 sols (about $3.50) the head of community took us for a very nice ride.

On to the island of Amantani where we met our family we were to stay with for the night, in the village of Colquecachi. Emiliane was our host, Jeanne, myself and a couple from Columbia. Emiliane has a guest room and was very nice with numerous lama blankets. Lunch was served, a delightful soup of potatoes and quinoa. Then potatoes, sweet potatoes, and some other root crops. Very good. The guinea pigs were running about under foot growing for a future meal they are invited to. (As in they are dinner)

Then on to the meeting place for a hike to top of island for view of sunset. Awaiting others in group a pickup game of futball was started. I joined in not embarrassing myself too much and we held our own against the locals, at 13,000 feet. Then a hike of about 2 kilometers to the top where clouds were beginning to come in so we slowly made our 3 circuits of the ceremonial site Pachatata and threw a rock to the east for a wish to be granted. The thunder and lightening were seen to the west and we headed down. Waiting in our room for dinner two boys joined us and sang songs to us, trying to carry on conversation, but my Spanish is very limited as yet. Dinner was delightful, Emiliane serving us potato soups then rice and potatoes,with Mint tea freshly picked. We could then go to a local dance but opted to go to bed, as raining and the hundred meter distance was too much. Jeanne had gotten chilled so piled under 4 heavy blankets as no heat in rooms.

Today awoke to a pan of delivered hot water to our room for washing, then another delicious meal of pancakes and potatoes with mint and or coca tea. Back to the boat to visit another island of isla tacquile. Interesting to see the different cultures so close. Here the men knit and the women make the threads etc. Another awesome meal and a three hour tour back to Puno.

Met a delightful couple from Bogota, Columbia whom we came to spend time with and discovered much the same interests. Alex and Marcela. Alex attends the same church I do: the church of the rotating mass. He love mountain biking and apparently there are some great trails in Columbia. We shared our family visit and tonight had a delightful meal here in Puno. We promise to return the favor.

Doing ok with altitude. saO2 I had the opportunity to check yesterday and it was 94% so very happy with that. High at this altitude should max at about 90-92%. A doc from France had an oximetry hers was as low as 79% due to asthma.

r to

Bus ride depart at 7 am via taxi to bus station, onto tour bus to Puno 380 kilometers from Cusco. Have not looked closely at bike route but began to realize this is the route from Cusco we will take. That made me readjust my thinking of traffic, and much more interesting to ponder coming terrain.

Slowly followed the Rio vilconota, eventually making it to 4335 meters. Peaks above over 5000. The valley had farmers and sheep, cows, and llama grazing..as we got over the pass much drier and flatter as it opened up. We had crossed into a different region: the altoplano or high plans. Reading about the altoplano seems this area is the widest area of the Andes mountains and these high plains are the second largest in the world. I suspect Tibets are larger.
Here is a description of our tour and sites visited:

Andahuyalillas: ‘Sistine chapel of South America’: this church is one of the most beautiful examples of Andean popular religious art.- – Raqchi (Wiracocha God Temple): This was an Inca church of monumental dimensions; 100 metres long, 26 metres wide and 14 metres high.
– La Raya: This is the half-way point between Cusco and Puno and also the highest point (4335 metres above sea level). The landscapes here are stunning and typical Andean animals like the llama, alpaca and vicuña are common. It is also the geographic border between the two cultures – quechua and aymara.
Pukara: This is the most important and oldest ceremonial centre of the altiplano. There are interesting lito-sculptures and tombs.

And apparently Peru has been hit hard with global warming: snow and glaciers are going away. The peaks above us today were five years ago completely covered in snow. Apparently the last three years have seen very strange unusual weather. Our guide pointed out when we left that it was raining in Puno which was very unusual this time of year.

Stopped at several historical Inca sites. I love how the history here is traced back to as far as 11000 years BC. The Incas who developed strongly in 1500 and 1600’s and culture destroyed but the inca were never conquered and are the driving force of Peru today, or It seems to me. The people are very proud of their heritage.

Forgot my immigration card in Cusco and hotel almost would not admit me. Oops. Finally promised to email a copy when we return to Cusco in 4 days. Now we are scheduled to take a boat out to the floating islands staying with a family and learning the culture. Apparently people become very tired on the few hundred meter hike due to the altitude 12,500. We shall see.. Feel like I have been sitting around. Need to exercise and do something.

Internet here is slow and weird, can text from iPad but iPhone is sporadic. Phone will sometimes send then says turn on wifi which is already on. Have turned off cellular due to cost and use only wifi, which is available even on the bus here.

Jeanne very excited about our hotel in Puno as lots of hot water and some heat. We have come to realize this is definitely a luxury item. Oxygen available in hotel lobby. On arrival one girl was definitely in need. Hard going from sea level to here quickly.

“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere, than on any city on earth.” Steve McQueen