And so the saga continues. Currently at aguas calientes. A tourist town about 2000 feet below macchu Picchu. It is part of our entire lares trek from previous blog. And I continue somewhat chronologically.

Slept in next to hot springs till about 6:15 ( usual was 5 am up). A leisurely morning the cook had made a special cake for breakfast. And a quinoa drink which was delicious but no one could figure ingredients. And remember none of us speak Spanish and for once Reuben was not much help.

Onto the bus and as soon as u boarded I knew it was going to be rough. Having spent a lot if time in small planes I was as ready as I could ever be. Discovered a new meaning of fun. Holding a leaky plastic bag full of vomit for three hours down a winding gravel mountain road. Now that is fun hog material. The cold past days developed fully. Jeanne was there trying to help and others passed more bags as none were waterproof. But no rest for the weary, had to catch a train to agua calientes. Which we did I found a trash for my extra luggage and boarded a very nice tourist train for 1 1/2 hours descending to 6600 feet. Now in jungle. I spent time in train bathroom for those interested.

Arrived and 10 minute walk to hotel. I went straight to bed thinking the two flights of stairs were harder than the pass yesterday. Went straight to bed as we had 4 hours of free time to explore the town. Jeanne went to find password for internet. Very shortly I heard crying and knew immediately.

Jeanne’s dad Joe Molitor passed away yesterday about noon. He was 91 and it was not necessarily unexpected but it still hurts. He was a simple man who lived his family, and he loved St. Louis. It did matter where we were as long as the family was together. And Bud Lites.

Jeanne’s worst nightmare came true. She was hoping to not have him gone when we were gone. We had agreed to not return if such a thing happens but reality changes things. So we got Reuben from Llama trek and 2 1/2 hours after arrival reservations on trAin to urotombo where can from llama path will pick her up and return to cusco arriving about 11 pm. Travel insurance was able to help change her return reservations to the states and St. Louis.

So my partner left in a way unexpected and not as we hoped. She is within 2000 feet of macchu Picchu, and really wanted to meet the bike people when in cusco next week. Alas one has to expect change.

So I lie here in bed others on tour, at dinner but I am not eating due to stomach. Alas. Alarm for 5 am t o catch ride to macchu Picchu and climb if wayna Picchu.

Alas I miss Jeanne it was not the departure we wanted but then departures are weird.

Thinking of Joe Molitor and the numerous stories. Loved to barbecue. rest in peace you are with the love of your life Rose Molitor.

Signed up for this trek as inca trail sold out six months in advance. (Reservation permit system due to numbers). This one billed as just as nice but without the hoards of people.

It was very nice 4 couples including Jeanne and I. Others Erin and Dave from Washington D. C., Dorothea and Josh from New York City, and Marta and Gisseppe from Rome but currently living in New York, getting ready to transfer to London. All fun people much younger than us but that does not take much. Turns out Marta and Gisseppe have never been hiking or camping. This was first experience. Well Llama path was great providing food, tents, warm water bowl for washing at tent on awakening. Five porters, cook, and guide. Five donkeys to carry all but our day packs. Food was amazing, not just hot but three meals inside wall tent chairs table. Start with soup usually a quinoa something and awesome then elegantly prepared main course of a variety if things. And always hot tea and clean water for the trail ;do not drink Peruvian water. And the guide Reuben. Great at helping us and telling history. ( a huge story in itself). He is one of 10% of Peruvians who follow the Andean religion. 80% are Catholic, 30% practicing, and 10% other often seventh day Adventist. But the religion has always been interesting to me. But weird. Do not get me started.

Well, turns out one of the harder hikes I have ever done. (Remember Marta and Gisseppe). Started out with bus ride of about 2 1/2 hours starting at 5 am. Great breakfast of juice pancakes coca tea rolls and other stuff I forget. Then 8 miles up starting at about 11000 feet riding to our camp at 14,100. Everyone but Jeanne and I had only two days acclimatization. Lunch it began to pour rain then hail temp about 7-8 C. Then back on trail rain stopped but a bit of drizzle. By the time we reached camp we all were pooped. But happy hour if popcorn and tea brought to tents where everyone but me was laid out. Gisseppe having difficulty with altitude the worst; severe headache , and any movement severe nausea. A bit concerning. Dinner and we collapsed. On one of my 4 trips to bathroom stars came out and saw old friend constellation if Orion, but knew no others and it was freezing. I think Jeanne and I were only ones who slept.

In morning Gisseppe was seriously thinking of going down due to feeling horrible but managed to get breakfast and felt a but better. Onward and upward. Through about 2″ of snow rising eventually to 15850 feet at pass mountains above us. That was 2 miles then down 10 miles to about 10000 feet

I thought of brother in law, Steve Penner who says “any day in the snow adds two weeks to your life”. Well I have added 4 weeks to my nursing home life.

Hiking up I ended up in front. It worked out every was there at some point not that it was a big deal. I was in front huff puffing my way up thinking I am slowing everyone down with my incredibly slow pace. Breath step breath Repeat. I looked back and others I thought I was slowing down were a hundred meters back. Finally the top and then the descent. Always fun descending from high altitude. Breathing gets easier the plants reappeared beautiful alpine lakes and gnarly steps. This trail has been used for well over a thousand years. Lunch finally about 2 at a village with llama grazing about. People beginning to plant potatoes. One potato at a time.

The about a four mike part road part trail to the lares hit springs. Arriving after dark exhausted. Reuben herding his charges with great finesse. Keeping us going. My nose is running like crazy having felt a cold coming on for several days. The hot springs were awesome with large pools of a variety of temperatures. We camped right next to them. We all were pooped.

But a note on the local kids. Obviously they have very little. I realize everyone in the United States is rich. I did not remotely say happier. But life at altitude is tough even if you are adapted to it. And now tourism is a part with Trekkers hiking through there pastures, fields,and villages. So when kids see tourists they come out to watch not necessarily expecting anything but it has become a custom. Reuben advised against candy, the usual gift, but instead notebooks and or paper and pencils. When given they thanked us profusely but again were not demanding. And ever so cute in their sandals and wide eyes. Sandals are the shoe of choice whether economic or they just like. But bare feet in the snow. Heard ing donkeys , llama, sheep, or planting crops. A delightful place.

I would include pictures but alas afraid internet is very marginal here at aguas calientes.
But more in next blog. Had to break this up.

Tour of lake titicaca continues. Only way out here to the islands is on a tour with the masses, but delightful.

Slow boat to one of floating islands. These were made famous, for me at least with Thor Heyerdahl’s book Kon Tiki as this was where he got the reeds for the boat. These islands are floating with maybe 6-7 huts on them. The islands are as expected a bit squishy but solid lasting about 30 years when a new one is made. Boats are reed and appear very sea worthy. For10 sols (about $3.50) the head of community took us for a very nice ride.

On to the island of Amantani where we met our family we were to stay with for the night, in the village of Colquecachi. Emiliane was our host, Jeanne, myself and a couple from Columbia. Emiliane has a guest room and was very nice with numerous lama blankets. Lunch was served, a delightful soup of potatoes and quinoa. Then potatoes, sweet potatoes, and some other root crops. Very good. The guinea pigs were running about under foot growing for a future meal they are invited to. (As in they are dinner)

Then on to the meeting place for a hike to top of island for view of sunset. Awaiting others in group a pickup game of futball was started. I joined in not embarrassing myself too much and we held our own against the locals, at 13,000 feet. Then a hike of about 2 kilometers to the top where clouds were beginning to come in so we slowly made our 3 circuits of the ceremonial site Pachatata and threw a rock to the east for a wish to be granted. The thunder and lightening were seen to the west and we headed down. Waiting in our room for dinner two boys joined us and sang songs to us, trying to carry on conversation, but my Spanish is very limited as yet. Dinner was delightful, Emiliane serving us potato soups then rice and potatoes,with Mint tea freshly picked. We could then go to a local dance but opted to go to bed, as raining and the hundred meter distance was too much. Jeanne had gotten chilled so piled under 4 heavy blankets as no heat in rooms.

Today awoke to a pan of delivered hot water to our room for washing, then another delicious meal of pancakes and potatoes with mint and or coca tea. Back to the boat to visit another island of isla tacquile. Interesting to see the different cultures so close. Here the men knit and the women make the threads etc. Another awesome meal and a three hour tour back to Puno.

Met a delightful couple from Bogota, Columbia whom we came to spend time with and discovered much the same interests. Alex and Marcela. Alex attends the same church I do: the church of the rotating mass. He love mountain biking and apparently there are some great trails in Columbia. We shared our family visit and tonight had a delightful meal here in Puno. We promise to return the favor.

Doing ok with altitude. saO2 I had the opportunity to check yesterday and it was 94% so very happy with that. High at this altitude should max at about 90-92%. A doc from France had an oximetry hers was as low as 79% due to asthma.

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Bus ride depart at 7 am via taxi to bus station, onto tour bus to Puno 380 kilometers from Cusco. Have not looked closely at bike route but began to realize this is the route from Cusco we will take. That made me readjust my thinking of traffic, and much more interesting to ponder coming terrain.

Slowly followed the Rio vilconota, eventually making it to 4335 meters. Peaks above over 5000. The valley had farmers and sheep, cows, and llama grazing..as we got over the pass much drier and flatter as it opened up. We had crossed into a different region: the altoplano or high plans. Reading about the altoplano seems this area is the widest area of the Andes mountains and these high plains are the second largest in the world. I suspect Tibets are larger.
Here is a description of our tour and sites visited:

Andahuyalillas: ‘Sistine chapel of South America’: this church is one of the most beautiful examples of Andean popular religious art.- – Raqchi (Wiracocha God Temple): This was an Inca church of monumental dimensions; 100 metres long, 26 metres wide and 14 metres high.
– La Raya: This is the half-way point between Cusco and Puno and also the highest point (4335 metres above sea level). The landscapes here are stunning and typical Andean animals like the llama, alpaca and vicuña are common. It is also the geographic border between the two cultures – quechua and aymara.
Pukara: This is the most important and oldest ceremonial centre of the altiplano. There are interesting lito-sculptures and tombs.

And apparently Peru has been hit hard with global warming: snow and glaciers are going away. The peaks above us today were five years ago completely covered in snow. Apparently the last three years have seen very strange unusual weather. Our guide pointed out when we left that it was raining in Puno which was very unusual this time of year.

Stopped at several historical Inca sites. I love how the history here is traced back to as far as 11000 years BC. The Incas who developed strongly in 1500 and 1600’s and culture destroyed but the inca were never conquered and are the driving force of Peru today, or It seems to me. The people are very proud of their heritage.

Forgot my immigration card in Cusco and hotel almost would not admit me. Oops. Finally promised to email a copy when we return to Cusco in 4 days. Now we are scheduled to take a boat out to the floating islands staying with a family and learning the culture. Apparently people become very tired on the few hundred meter hike due to the altitude 12,500. We shall see.. Feel like I have been sitting around. Need to exercise and do something.

Internet here is slow and weird, can text from iPad but iPhone is sporadic. Phone will sometimes send then says turn on wifi which is already on. Have turned off cellular due to cost and use only wifi, which is available even on the bus here.

Jeanne very excited about our hotel in Puno as lots of hot water and some heat. We have come to realize this is definitely a luxury item. Oxygen available in hotel lobby. On arrival one girl was definitely in need. Hard going from sea level to here quickly.

“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere, than on any city on earth.” Steve McQueen

Lima
Arrived Lima about midnight and a prearranged taxi took us to hotel, arriving about 1 am. Not as tired as expected but slept until 9am barely making the breakfast, then fell asleep again til 1:30 when we forced ourselves up. Just a day in Lima so did what we like best on short time: walk!

Lima is inhabited apparently by about 7 million people who call it home. We had been told not a lot of interest here and to just move on. And warned numerous times of the crime. So we were on guard, staying in a nicer area of town; miraflores.

Walked around what Jeanne thought was a zoo, as llamas and ducks seen through the fence in cages. Walked around and turns out it was a museum of Lima culture and an old excavated pyramid. (Museo Pucllana). The Lima culture inhabited this area from about 400 to 700 A.D. And was a maritime culture. As our guide noted the sun was worshipped in Inca culture a thousand years later but in the mountains where the sun is important for warmth and seasons. Here in Lima it apparently is always cloudy and the sun is present but not direct, thus the sun was not worshipped as it was in Inca culture, here the ocean was worshipped for its bounty.

In the building the mud bricks are still here 1600 years later, as noted because Lima is a desert and it never rains here, just a constant drizzle.

The culture worshipped the ocean as much of their sustenance came from there. A new building was often established starting with the breaking of a fancy nice pottery bowl, much as today we break a bottle of champagne for a ship. And apparently even an occasional human sacrifice was made with the same idea.

The pyramid here was 23 meters tall and theorized as a worship place for the higher ups and from there they could keep an eye on the commoners working below. The commoners paid their taxes through 2-4 months of work, often making bricks for the pyramid. As the guide noted the bricks were hand made and the walls were not meticulously straight. This allowed for earthquakes to rattle and roll and the bricks would naturally settle back into their naturally unstraight positions.

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Some of this archeology has only come about in the last 5 months. It is an ongoing discovery.

Made me think of North American history. We think as far back as the pilgrims but the history goes back much farther with Indian cultures.

After the museum we walked to the ocean. Lima is built on cliffs above the ocean, and has a great park along the edge.

Being a Sunday families were out just strolling, the bike, skateboard, and dog parks were all busy.

Finally the sun set (although not seen due to clouds) and 15 minutes later it was dark, and we began a search for dinner. Found a great sidewalk cafe starting with a Pisco Sour, the national drink of Peru. Tried making these at home before departure and ours tasted like I imagine shaving cream would taste. Here though very different and delicious. Meal was superb and we walked the rest of way back to hotel and again fell into a deep sleep. Now onto Cuzco.