train

Toronto

Posted on by J. R. Patee

To appreciate the beauty of a snowflake, it is necessary to stand out in the cold. Aristotle

Arrived 6 hours late into Toronto , no problem, not that many freight trains through Ontario, which allowed us to catch up time. Last day felt good enough to go to dining car and meet other folks for a short bit.

Arrived and had looked at the hotel and according to map navigation was 700 meters walk across street and around corner. Along the way, through a delightful train station stopped at ticket office to see if we could upgrade to a sleeper Montreal to Halifax. The agent was trying not to laugh, while explaining those bunks are reserved 6 months to a year ahead. I guess we remain in just coach seats, for the 25 hour ride.

Great hall union station Toronto
Fairmont royal york
Our. 6th floor view of union station (actually about 10th floor but 6th of guest rooms

Stepped out of the grand hall into the streets of Toronto, and there in front of us was a huge building extending the entire block and upward. I checked Maps again and it said go across street walk around corner to other side of building and there was hotel. We opted to walk across the 7 lanes of traffic, which all traffic stopped, and walked in the front door, nearly tried checking into the restaurant, as could not find reception or check in. Finally in the nook reception, then took a while to figure out elevators (10 of them). Punch in “guest rooms”, then floor #, then swipe room card, then await elevator assignment. What is a kid who wants to hit all the numbers supposed to do? To go down one repeats the operation making sure you go to lobby.

We basically knew very little of Toronto, I mentioned there were two things I wanted to do, go up the CN tower, and go to beach on Lake Ontario. We knew not much else, but first thing in the morning, after the worst coffee ever in hotel room, moved on to our included tour of Toronto, which came with our tour package. Delightful,laughing character “Doug” was our driver guide. and he began with antidotes about various landmarks,, and historical figures. (Always nice to hear the local version as opposed to the official sanitized glorified one)

First stop though CN towers, which I did not realize were until about 2007 the tallest freestanding structure in the world . (Burj Khalifa, in Dubai, took the title then), now it is about 11th tallest in the world, although the viewing platform is only about 350 meters up of the 550 meter height.

I think it is funny I cannot go out on the glass floors, for whatever reason, I used to climb and exposure was not a problem but fhe glass floors I can’t seem to do. The. The boat guide told me the CN tower originally had a much larger area of glass but was never used. it was too expensive to remove so they just put carpet over most of it. I guess I did walk on the see through floor.

Then on to the market. We are talking food market and oh my. Incredible. Fish, beef, lamb, vegetables, on and on, in an unending variety. Jeanne though, although feeling good on departure was going down fast, and back in the van , Doug dropped her at the hotel, where, alas she fell sound asleep until my return hours later. Just tired, although slept well through the night. Must have been the poor breakfast at hotel restaurant and incredibly bad coffee available in room.

Fruits (bananas were$1.21 Canadian/lb)
Mustard display and options

Then on to the island taxi, ferries, tours terminal. We boarded a tour boat to the barrier island a couple kilometers off from Toronto. Apparently used to be about 10,000 residents over there but a hurricane (yes hurricane in about 1920 wiped out most structures). It was rebuilt primarily with an eye to the people of Toronto. One island is wild, one has residences but the waitlist is some 50 years, and residences can only sell for original building prices. The biggest center island is, as our boat guide said like a Central Park. Primarily park land, although it does have a boat moorage on it, where you can live on a houseboat., of which none were extravagant.

Toronto coastline

Thus ended the tour, although crossing the pedestrian walkway a bike came through and Doug told him “hey red light for bikes”. The fellow turned and yelled back “it’s ok I am old”.

I told Jeanne I would get some Covid testing kits enroute home thus stopped at a drug store, picking up two. We were not convinced we were better and thought for sure we had Covid. Both Jeanne’s and my test were negative. Whew!

Asking Jeanne what she wanted for dinner, her response was Asian. Sort of leaves it open, but with numerous options. Found a hopefully good place called “dim sum king”, only a km away so walked, ended up in Chinese section of town and passed numerous good looking hole in the wall “Asian restaurants.”, finally arriving at DimSumKing on third floor and yea very good. Not exactly positive in our ordering as primarily Chinese although English subtitles and pictures, but awesome food.

Dim sum

Return hotel watched two old movies and slept great and slept in. Oh my. No decent coffee at hotel so somewhat difficult to begin day. They have coffee but some frothy thing which tasted bad. Headed across the street to food court in train station, variety to choose from, middle east, Thai, sushi, Japanese, Korean , noodles, Taco Bell, McDonald’s, chicken places, and of course Tim Hortons. I chose middle eastern. Jeanne chose Thai, but we had to get coffee from McDonald’s, which we consider some of the best coffee.

Union station food court

I have concluded the more you pay for a hotel the less you get. Ma Johnson in McCarthy was one of most expensive hotels ever and they did not even have electric plugs available in room. Alas !

After breakie (at noon) off to the Toronto aquarium) one of the best I have ever seen. Great exhibits, informative and moved people through without feeling overly crowded. Had a moving walkway through the below surface tanks you could just ride and enjoy, or get off anytime. I did learn how to sex a moon jellyfish and a shark. As noted quite informative.

Kelp forests are always relaxing to watch

Then told jeanne I would take her to what she missed yesterday on the islands, and took a water taxi across the center island. Delightful walk about and a short walk in the sand of Lake Ontario beach.

Mist sprayers along Toronto harbor walk
Toronto skyline from center island
Center island fountain
Railroad

Dinner at the roundhouse below the CN tower. Roundhouse is a brewery built about the railroad roundhouse which formerly was used to redirect the engines to proper tracks.

Currently back on train moving on to Montreal, cruising along Lake Ontario, cruising at 150 km/hr

The Canadian

Posted on by J. R. Patee

I know not all that may be coming. But be it what it will. I’ll go to it laughing.

Herman Melville from “Moby Dick”

Train is good. Like Amtrak the freight trains own the tracks so passengers take a back seat and wait for the freight trains to pass. Left Vancouver 5 minutes late and promptly stopped for an hour to await two freight trains.

Vancouver train station
Dining car
Our cabin bunks come down on left chairs move about
Waterfall along he way

But when we were told of the Canadian and how it was much nicer, yes, very true. Not that Amtrak was bad, but mints on bed every night, food is better, cars are cleaner, windows clean, and our room is much roomier, although still quite tiny, but at least one can move around, and the ride seems smoother. I can set something down and mostly expect it to remain. And windows are washed.

As noted earlier in last blog our “tour company” said the walk from hotel to station was too far to walk, and but we risked it, 2.3 km (1 1/2 miles). No problem, dinner in diner of lamb shank, potato’s, and an incredible strawberry cheesecake, except that evening a cough we both had was getting worse, and muscles were quite sore, not as if we overexercised but stiff and sore all over. It worsened and we made decision to stay in room, hopefully not spreading it. Angela our attendant has made life bearable bringing menu and meals from dining car. Yesterday Jeanne had breakfast, poached eggs on toast with melon, and has brown potato’s. I had fried eggs to perfection,sausage, toast melon. All on our lap in our room.

The Canadian Rockies were amazing as expected and I did open door and look out left side windows in hallway at Mt Robson, one of the most spectacular Mountain View’s from a road. we did get off in Jasper and walked around for a bit in soaking up sunshine. The business area remains but the fires devastated the surrounding area, two years ago

Mt Robson
Panorama of our 21cars and window washers
Jasper training station

Currently sitting on a siding awaiting a freight train to pass. Saskatchewan is flat. I think a two story house would be good because then you would be highest thing around

Saskatchewan view train work vehicles getting ready to place new ties down.
Somewhere outside Saskatoon

Hence we continue onward I am feeling a bit better but jeanne is worse. Have kept the bunks in place and she is sleeping. Good!

Vancouver B.C.

Posted on by J. R. Patee

I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

Douglas Adams

Arrived in the evening via bus from Seattle as apparently schedules do not allow as many trains to connect from Seattle to Vancouver as one would like. Customs was very easy, with nary a question other than what are we doing here and then she was getting excited about our trip. Caught a cab the few kilometers to hotel, being a Sheraton and rather fancy for us, but it is what the tour provided. 23rd floor and a nice view.

Then a bus tour about town, part of the overall tour we paid for. As expected nothing great but did provide a quick overview of highlights and history of the town. Stanley Park, Granville, Gastown, chinatown, cruise ship docks were shown and all was good. Had a driver who did impressions of famous people noted along the way, Frank Sinatra, Richard Attenborough, English, Scottish, Irish, and others.

A friends daughter, who is Canadian, has a restaurant here in Vancouver, and Jeanne had made reservations. “Nero Tondo” on Powell street. It has only two servings a night 5:30 and 7:30 and only one choice on menu. We needed a walk and decided to walk the 1 1/2 hour 5 k (3 mile). Jeanne had missed the text from a friend here in Vancouver who said do not walk down Powell Street. All went well in the business tourist area where our hotel is, and through the area of Gastown, also full of tourists, but when we crossed over to the east side it the “homeless” appeared. Was not a problem as we looked on, stepped over and around, pondering how people get to that condition, but they do for a variety of reasons, but it makes one sad they do not have the life we have, or it provides a glimpse of other sides of the spectrum of life we call civilization. Jeanne said if she was alone she would have called a cab, I said if I had known of this area I would not have chosen to walk. But all good with good people watching, although for us a bit depressing. But Vancouver does have a homeless problem, but as everywhere else the powers that be like to hide it.

Dinner itself was awesome, between 10-13 courses all very small but explained in detail, all locally sourced, potatoes, eggs, seafood, vegetables. The food was all prepared in front of us from the salads, to little appetizers, mains, and desert All the plates were prepared then delivered to each table. We left quite satiated, ordering a Lyft cab for the ride home.

Desert
Nick the owner

Sunday was a free day on our tour of Canada, and left the hotel in search of a breakfast place as only place at hotel was Starbucks, not our favorite. Seems the more expensive the hotel the less they supply breakfast. But a nice place found, then on to the light rail train station. 30 years ago Jeanne and I were here and remember the monorail about town which had been made for the world expo in the late 80’s. Unfortunately it had been removed, but our tour bus driver yesterday said the expo line was a good choice for just seeing a lot of Vancouver. Jeanne and I often will just ride a mass transit train or bus about town just to see what is out there. Today we rode to King George station, found a bathroom at Starbucks and returned.

Our friend, whom we met some years ago in the ski jumping community lives here in Vancouver with her two boys, one whom is an upcoming ski jumper who is progressing up the ranks. Her daughter just left home for college in Halifax where we end our train ride across Canada. She and the boys met us, drove us to their place, then on to a delightful hike above North Vancouver. Reservations had been made at a wonderful Italian restaurant and after a walk about the waterfront of North Vancouver. A wonderful afternoon. I told Anya our tour bus guide yesterday said he could not recommend any particular Italian restaurant, stating “just walk into one and it will be great”.

Vancouver skyline
Loop trail north Vancouver
More stairs
Sunset

Vancouver has been good. I love the diversity. Anchorage is diverse but its diversity is hidden unless you get in the right community. Vancouver is up front, Today on the streets the languages I identified, (correctly or incorrectly who knows) were English, Spanish, Hindi, Ukrainian, Cantonese, and I suspect many others I could not recognize. The town is clean with garbage cans and people that empty those disposal areas, (at least in the tourist, business and residential areas). It is easy to get around and I never felt unsafe despite the above occurrences.

Vancouver real brother-in-law estate is expensive though, at least from a real estate perspective. Apparently average price of a 1600 square foot 3 bedroom 2 bath house is 2.3 million dollars. whew.

And today Monday we depart on the train. The tour instructions said to take a cab from hotel to train station. Looked it up and 2.4 km. Walked it easily past the football stadium where World Cup held.

One note is after Toronto we are on our own, as in no tour, the way we normally travel. But again setting up hotel got taken by Expedia. Have been burned by them many times. A friend in Vermont has decided to come visit us in Montreal, and we invited him to stay with us. I went on website and it turns out it is Expedia. For two nights we were paying $790, Expedia said to add an additional person would cost an additional $800. Nope no way. With some looking I found the phone of actual hotel and called. She was amazed at Expedia and said she hears that often. She increased our booking to 3 people and said it was $760, $30 cheaper, but we will not get money back as originally paid to Expedia. We try to be on lookout for such but difficult sometimes. One thinks I have the proper site but turns out it is a third party.

Now sitting in waiting area before loading train.

Vancouver train station

Planes, Trains, and automobiles

Posted on by J. R. Patee

Just start by creating your day. Then create your life

Prince

A few years ago Jeanne and I circumnavigated the United States it was a wondrous little adventure, traveling, seeing, visiting and somewhat experiencing something new. There were various writings I did, written on this site from 2 October 2024 to 2024. In a conversations with others along that route many folks highly recommended the Canadian rail across Canada. Many said it was far nicer, hence we have signed on to crossing Canada by rail. As usual when you cross one thing off the list one adds two more. Quit keeping lists.

We started planning and getting reservations in February. It was difficult to find just the Canadian rail website through all the advertising. Again the commercial interests crowd out the independent traveler. When we did finally find just the Canadian railway, it was completely sold out, more than six months ahead of time. Geez, who thinks that far ahead? Obviously to numerous others, but not me. We thought well let’s look at the tours. Numerous options and we picked one which was the trip we had wanted, except they arranged hotels and an occasional tour. Price was much more than if we had done it independently, but space was available, we signed up for this time period, sent in our money and sat back. Easy peazzee!

Two days later a friend emailed pondering a reunion of our Colorado college friends. Her invite went something like

“Would you like to go to an alumni reunion a hundred or so people you hardly know or get together with or a dozen folks you really care about?” Of course, near immediately, 5 or 6 of us were in and soon it was a dozen. The Oregon coast was decided on as many of us have spent memorable times there. Originally Mary had set 11-13 September as a weekend, but Jeanne and I were committed to Canada rail starting the 11 September. Mary checked and realizing we are all retired and weekends mean nothing, she changed to 8-10. Yahoo

And a wondrous 2 days with about 15 of us. Some I had not seen since Colorado College when I left in 1970, others I have kept in contact with on occasional get togethers, others I have kept in contact- all though were close. It was as if we were never apart, what Jeanne calls comma friends- you are close, go off for decades and do your thing and come back together to carry on where you left off, with more life experiences. We had at least established our personalities enough in college we were who we were.

College was a defining time for us. I remember coming from conservative Utah and had read about “hippies” and read they were not good people. Then I met some! They were good thoughtful people, or just like everyone else with a whole variety, and not everyone thought or acted or lived like I had. Open ones mind. Sometimes the things we are taught are not necessarily correct. This is where education comes in, to teach you to think, analyze and ponder. I remember riding the chairlift once with someone I very much admired and they told me they “smoked dope”. I was blown away, I had been taught that was evil and would be the end of my life, but I thought about it and realized marijuana was not going to end the world, although in those days penalties of the straight world were extreme. the world has progressed.

Vacation rental
Oregon coast by Manzanita

When in high school and deciding where to go to college, the one story I tell is I knew I should go to one of those back east to some liberal school for a good education. But the east had no skiing which I had heard was icy, and skiing was a part of my life. Of course all skiing for me compared to Utah. Hence I found Colorado College which was east of the Rockies which entered it in the competition. My view was simple east and west, and east was east of the rockies. I had been across country and seen the “east” and it was flat and no skiing. To this day people will tell me St. Louis is west, and I just shake my head. Prejudices!

Forest Trail to the beach
Rest area hike Picture by Maralyn

It was a delightful time catching up, learning of our adventures and misadventures, retelling stories from over 50 years ago and where we were led, from our decisions. For two days we laughed, told stories explained and heard explanations, ate, walked on the beach, walked in the forest, cooked and had a wondrous time. Amongst us during the intervening decades we had become artists, scientists, nurses, architects, ranchers, firemen, writers, doctors and the spaces in between.

Hikers in Oregon with a history of Colorado
Bumps on a log
Reunions of Colorado College

Then onward to our trip, several pieces having to fit together as a puzzle, transport varieties, hotels, eating. Hopefully flows evenly. Four os us began our journey back to Portland via rental car returning to the airport. We took our time taking just over 4 hours to do a 1.5 hour drive. Stopped at rest areas, hiked, stopped at a roadside cafe, just enjoying last moments with each other, before returning to our other lives. We dropped off Jacqui and Maralyn at train station for their return to Seattle, returned car to airport, and our friends Sheila and Steve picked us up and out to dinner we went, alongside the Columbia river, continuing the conversations with different friends from years past and into the present. They dropped us at the hotel near train station and we departed the next morning for Vancouver B.C.

roadside restaurant highway 26 outside Portland Oregon
Portland Union Station
Portland departure
King Street Station Seattle Washington

Train to Seattle, transfer to bus, due to better connection, and into Vancouver. Have not been here since miss nineties, a I remember a wonderful city, clean and vibrant, easy to get around. Thus far the same but far bigger. Our tour included a bus tour of Vancouver this morning. Bus tours are never our thing but included and was a nice little drive bout to the highlights, Stanley park, Granville island, Chinatown, gas town. Just a drive about with stops for short walks. Interesting driver narrator did all sorts of impersonations telling the stories and history.

Hotel arrival Vancouver not our usual type of hotel but included in tour
Sunrise

Granville Island Public market

Granville heavy industry cement plant

And for another viewpoint of the same story check out Jeannes blog

Jeanne’s blog

And now to explore more and on eastward via train

Thoughts on trains

Posted on by J. R. Patee

The Beauty of life is to be outside the box, so that the box doesn’t exist…. to limit a human being to one mode of expression is really a crime.

Herbie Hancock

It’s been almost three weeks since we got back from our trip, and I still have a lot of questions.

1: Would I do it again?

I highly recommend taking the train, but maybe not for an extended trip like we did. Jeanne mentioned that the trip started to feel a bit monotonous, day after day, not really exploring but just taking short breaks. But we also realized that the purpose wasn’t necessarily to visit specific places and focus on them, but rather to circumnavigate and see the entire country, not just a portion. Where does that stop and start? Why just the United States? Well, there are so many amazing places to explore!

I’d still highly recommend taking the train if you have the time. When you’re in a hurry, it’s easy to miss out on all the cool stuff along the way. For example, driving from Alaska to the lower 48 states takes at least 3 days, and it’s even better if you take your time and enjoy the scenery. But when you fly, you miss out on all the amazing sights and experiences. It still remains the most memorable train ride experience, of my life, was the Australian train the Indian-Pacific. We woke crossing the Nullarbor desert, at sunrise watching the red kangaroos race the train. One does not see that from an airplane.

Seeing the country was absolutely stunning. Cruising along at often 80mph (125 kph) gave you vistas, forests, lakes, rivers, industrial areas, backyards, cityscapes not necessarily seen from cars or airplanes. We definitely enjoyed viewing the various agricultural bounty as we traversed the country. Seemingly never-ending fields of wheat, corn, soybeans, potatoes, sugarcane, cotton, pecan trees, and unknown green stuff. Human industry at its best.

Cruising through the towns, villages, and cities gave a perspective unlike driving in a car. Where people live is interesting, how a town is laid out, why the houses are built like that, what activities do the people partake in. All reasonably guessed at by seeing the layout and accommodations in the yards. In a car, you are paying attention to the road, what is happening in the car , and how long until you arrive. The railroad is the journey.

As for airplanes, I did have a friend describe an airliner as a time capsule. You walk in, sit down, tap your feet for a few hours, get out, and you are somewhere else entirely.

When we talked with others on the trains, we asked why the train and not flying. We expected a common answer would be afraid to fly. Not once did that come up, but usually the answer was much more relaxed by train. No hassles with airports, no lines, no standing or sitting around, no security fuss.

But trains are not problem-free. Being, shall we say, older, I do not sleep as well vertically as I used to. When I fly long haul, I seem to require stops along the way. Instead of just changing planes, I will stop for the night and stay in a close motel or hotel; otherwise, I arrive exhausted and lose days trying to catch up. Maybe I am spoiled, being retired, but that is my travel. Enjoy the journey and I find airplane travel not as fun as it used to be.

Hence, we got the sleeping car. Not knowing how it worked, we opted for the cheaper mode – a roomette. Turns out that is good for one, although there is an upper bunk. A bedroom with slightly more room would be better for 2. Then there is the family room, but that was way too much for us. We wanted to just sleep there, not live there. The cost of a sleeper is exorbitant.

And that was the major problem. Expense! This was a very expensive trip! It cost just over $10,000 ($6,500 for the train, rest in hotels in Chicago and New York). That makes no sense to me. I do not know where the money goes, but I find it hard to believe operating a train is more expensive than a plane. There are subsidies out there of which I am unaware. One gets the distinct feeling passenger trains are low on the totem pole. Texas has turned down a fast train from Houston to Dallas numerous times, not believing in mass transit.

2: What did I learn?

A: In the United States, capitalism is the economy. OK, that makes sense, but making money has become the end-all. Years ago, Jeanne and I did a 4-month kayak trip and learned some towns definitely wanted your money, but sometimes forgot to give something in return. Oops, forgot! We remember some places for their ability to extract money and not for the memories of the town. Much the same now, but “they have gotten better and trickier at ability too extract money.

Our first experience with the train was the website. We were curious as to the cost, but could not find prices. Turns out the train is like airlines: they use demand pricing. You can’t get a price until you are ready to book. Earlier is better. Two couples we talked to paid $400 different for exactly the same thing but booked 10 minutes apart.

The Shedd Aquarium in Chicago did that for Marathon Weekend. Normally $35 entry, but Marathon Weekend $50, which is primarily why we did not go. No wonder “rich” people get along easier.

And we discovered in today’s world “they” sneak things into a bill. The Chicago hotel charged us $50 for a late checkout – which they conveniently did not mention, only noted later. Or a gratuity automatically added, or employee health benefit cost added separately. I never noted the cost of electricity or building maintenance on a bill.

I used to use the phone to find nearby places to eat, but it turned difficult as I would google places to eat near me and the closest would be a 1/2 mile away while we were standing in front of one. I learned to pay attention.

B: I learned what a large, incredibly diverse country we live in. The variety was awesome. That alone was one of the best parts. New York City, just walking the streets, was a lesson in diversity. Our guide for the 9/11 tour was 30 years old and did not know how to drive. She had never had a need. (She said our tips were going to pay for her driving lessons.) The food truck fellow from Egypt, the guide from Eritrea, the Jewish neighborhood in Baltimore. And the train, talking with various people, the Amish joining the train somewhere in the Midwest to go to a wedding, the musician traveling through the South to Houston, searching for a life beyond his past. The employees of the train, all from different backgrounds and hard-working, all. They do long hours and days with a smile.

C: As noted earlier, trains seem to take the short shrift. In the United States, freight gets precedence over passengers, often causing us to sit at a siding waiting for a freight train.

One could see this in the modern train stations. Houston and San Antonio had torn down their train stations and built bus terminals. Most of the elaborate train stations were relics of the past. Beautiful works of art, comfortable and functional.

3: Which was my favorite part?

People can be amazing!

That is difficult, depending on which part I am thinking about currently. My favorite train, although to call it a favorite does major injustice to the other sections, would be the Coast Starlight up the California coast. But the Sunset Limited from Louisiana to Los Angeles ranks in there, with the bayous, then the deserts. The Empire Builder from Portland to Chicago was spectacular, going from the mountains, to plains, to forests. The trip along the Great Lakes, I suspect, is spectacular, as is the Crescent train along the Appalachians, but they were at night, hence I cannot say much about that.

East coast trains, east of Chicago to New Orleans, were dirtier and I would say less friendly, although I am not sure how to describe that.

All in all, I enjoyed the trip, but like many things, I am very glad I did it, but do not need to repeat it. I would definitely do sections though.

I am glad I have the ability to enjoy it.

And next – the Zephyr train from San Francisco to denver sounds amazing if during the day, or the City of New Orleans from Chicago to New Orleans. Options and ideas.

For now though I am excited for the next adventure which is to stay home and enjoy winter here. Bike season is here, ski season, and just enjoying the sanctuary of home.

And for those still awake I posted a video of our travels on youtube. Hopefully it can be found on the youtube website https://www.youtube.com/@JRPatee