Toronto

To appreciate the beauty of a snowflake, it is necessary to stand out in the cold. Aristotle

Arrived 6 hours late into Toronto , no problem, not that many freight trains through Ontario, which allowed us to catch up time. Last day felt good enough to go to dining car and meet other folks for a short bit.

Arrived and had looked at the hotel and according to map navigation was 700 meters walk across street and around corner. Along the way, through a delightful train station stopped at ticket office to see if we could upgrade to a sleeper Montreal to Halifax. The agent was trying not to laugh, while explaining those bunks are reserved 6 months to a year ahead. I guess we remain in just coach seats, for the 25 hour ride.

Great hall union station Toronto
Fairmont royal york
Our. 6th floor view of union station (actually about 10th floor but 6th of guest rooms

Stepped out of the grand hall into the streets of Toronto, and there in front of us was a huge building extending the entire block and upward. I checked Maps again and it said go across street walk around corner to other side of building and there was hotel. We opted to walk across the 7 lanes of traffic, which all traffic stopped, and walked in the front door, nearly tried checking into the restaurant, as could not find reception or check in. Finally in the nook reception, then took a while to figure out elevators (10 of them). Punch in “guest rooms”, then floor #, then swipe room card, then await elevator assignment. What is a kid who wants to hit all the numbers supposed to do? To go down one repeats the operation making sure you go to lobby.

We basically knew very little of Toronto, I mentioned there were two things I wanted to do, go up the CN tower, and go to beach on Lake Ontario. We knew not much else, but first thing in the morning, after the worst coffee ever in hotel room, moved on to our included tour of Toronto, which came with our tour package. Delightful,laughing character “Doug” was our driver guide. and he began with antidotes about various landmarks,, and historical figures. (Always nice to hear the local version as opposed to the official sanitized glorified one)

First stop though CN towers, which I did not realize were until about 2007 the tallest freestanding structure in the world . (Burj Khalifa, in Dubai, took the title then), now it is about 11th tallest in the world, although the viewing platform is only about 350 meters up of the 550 meter height.

I think it is funny I cannot go out on the glass floors, for whatever reason, I used to climb and exposure was not a problem but fhe glass floors I can’t seem to do. The. The boat guide told me the CN tower originally had a much larger area of glass but was never used. it was too expensive to remove so they just put carpet over most of it. I guess I did walk on the see through floor.

Then on to the market. We are talking food market and oh my. Incredible. Fish, beef, lamb, vegetables, on and on, in an unending variety. Jeanne though, although feeling good on departure was going down fast, and back in the van , Doug dropped her at the hotel, where, alas she fell sound asleep until my return hours later. Just tired, although slept well through the night. Must have been the poor breakfast at hotel restaurant and incredibly bad coffee available in room.

Fruits (bananas were$1.21 Canadian/lb)
Mustard display and options

Then on to the island taxi, ferries, tours terminal. We boarded a tour boat to the barrier island a couple kilometers off from Toronto. Apparently used to be about 10,000 residents over there but a hurricane (yes hurricane in about 1920 wiped out most structures). It was rebuilt primarily with an eye to the people of Toronto. One island is wild, one has residences but the waitlist is some 50 years, and residences can only sell for original building prices. The biggest center island is, as our boat guide said like a Central Park. Primarily park land, although it does have a boat moorage on it, where you can live on a houseboat., of which none were extravagant.

Toronto coastline

Thus ended the tour, although crossing the pedestrian walkway a bike came through and Doug told him “hey red light for bikes”. The fellow turned and yelled back “it’s ok I am old”.

I told Jeanne I would get some Covid testing kits enroute home thus stopped at a drug store, picking up two. We were not convinced we were better and thought for sure we had Covid. Both Jeanne’s and my test were negative. Whew!

Asking Jeanne what she wanted for dinner, her response was Asian. Sort of leaves it open, but with numerous options. Found a hopefully good place called “dim sum king”, only a km away so walked, ended up in Chinese section of town and passed numerous good looking hole in the wall “Asian restaurants.”, finally arriving at DimSumKing on third floor and yea very good. Not exactly positive in our ordering as primarily Chinese although English subtitles and pictures, but awesome food.

Dim sum

Return hotel watched two old movies and slept great and slept in. Oh my. No decent coffee at hotel so somewhat difficult to begin day. They have coffee but some frothy thing which tasted bad. Headed across the street to food court in train station, variety to choose from, middle east, Thai, sushi, Japanese, Korean , noodles, Taco Bell, McDonald’s, chicken places, and of course Tim Hortons. I chose middle eastern. Jeanne chose Thai, but we had to get coffee from McDonald’s, which we consider some of the best coffee.

Union station food court

I have concluded the more you pay for a hotel the less you get. Ma Johnson in McCarthy was one of most expensive hotels ever and they did not even have electric plugs available in room. Alas !

After breakie (at noon) off to the Toronto aquarium) one of the best I have ever seen. Great exhibits, informative and moved people through without feeling overly crowded. Had a moving walkway through the below surface tanks you could just ride and enjoy, or get off anytime. I did learn how to sex a moon jellyfish and a shark. As noted quite informative.

Kelp forests are always relaxing to watch

Then told jeanne I would take her to what she missed yesterday on the islands, and took a water taxi across the center island. Delightful walk about and a short walk in the sand of Lake Ontario beach.

Mist sprayers along Toronto harbor walk
Toronto skyline from center island
Center island fountain
Railroad

Dinner at the roundhouse below the CN tower. Roundhouse is a brewery built about the railroad roundhouse which formerly was used to redirect the engines to proper tracks.

Currently back on train moving on to Montreal, cruising along Lake Ontario, cruising at 150 km/hr

The Canadian part II

Life is like a 10 speed bicycle. Most of us have gears we never use.

Charles m. Schultz

We left Saskatoon and noted the flats. I had thought Kansas and Nebraska were flat. The horizon just beckons you.

Saskatchewan
Coming into Winnipeg
Room with bunks down

Illness continued, feeling sore, stiff, with a bit of cough. Felt not right to expose others so just stayed in room. If you are going to be sick being on the Canadian with Angela as a steward is not a bad options. Started feeling better yesterday and today feeling right up near good. Today we even ate meals in dining car on a table with table cloths and such finery. And the windows are bigger.

Morning
More lakes

I, for some incongruous reason thought the trip ended yesterday. I had calculated us being almost 11 hours behind schedule and hence called our hotel to inform them we would be late on arrival. The clerk noted we had no reservation last night but did starting tonite. I checked and correct. Alas the 4 day trip I started on Monday was day 0. Tuesday was a full day 1. And I made the very rookie mistake of thinking once we left Winnipeg we were close. I forgot to look at map of Ontario. It is huge, larger than France and Spain combined

And yet more lakes
Near Capreol, Ontario

Thus this morning we awoke riding through wondrous forests with zillions of lakes. Almost none occupied. So pleasant to see remote areas, no cabins, no airplanes, an occasional canoe pulled up but for the most part forest and lakes. No cell coverage. Small towns, I suspect are work towns for railroad maybe 200-300 km (150 miles)apart. Then we turned south and an occasional cabin and recreational boats. Approaching Toronto

Overall. A delightful 103 hours.

Covid again

“We all need to learn to be comfortable with ourselves as early as possible, and to grasp we are responsible for who we are.”

Gisele Bündchen

Summer has been interesting for us in Alaska. Basically lots of visitors. First in May some cousins of Jeanne’s who did an Alaska cruise through the inside passage of Alaska, then did the bus tour about southcentral alaska, ending with a visit with us. Alway interesting to get a perspective from other people of our home. But a few days before departure they developed a cough and such calling it “allergies”. Well when they got home they called to inform us both had covid. Hmm, we knew it was still around, but we were trying to pretend otherwise. Somehow, we did not seem to get it.

Jeanne and I did sneak in a trip to Sun Valley, Idaho to celebrate my sisters 50th wedding anniversary.

Miller, Penner, Patee, Molitor family Sun Valley lodge

Then Jeanne’s sister and brother in law came for a week. It was a reconnaissance for the entire family next year. they were scoping out things to do for the various capability levels. They went on wildlife cruises, did the Native Heritage center they and helped with the summer solstice jump camp.

Summer Solstice jumpathon water spray

Next was Zak’s family, celebrating his dad’s 70th birthday. There were 7 here for 10-12 days. They went flight seeing, charter boat fishing out in Prince William Sound, watched the bore tide in turn again arm, various hikes, played lots of games, and spent a day at a friends cabin in Willow. The last activity just being at the cabin proved to be the highlight of the trip. Then a few developed a slight cough and upon returning home advised us they tested positive for covid.

Hammill family turnagain arm

Then various friends who needed a place travelling through Anchorage. All in all over a hundred man days of visitors. (one person, one day)

The Canadians from Squamish, British Columbia, came again for ski jumping, as they did last year. The Canadians have a can do attitude about jumping. Their programs have been cut and cut and now the physical jumps are scarce for them. Despite not having jumps the Canadians just have an attitude of we will do it. Hence they travel to other places to get their practices and utilize the small jumps available. They rented a house near the jumps and us, although one family stayed with us, with delightful 3 kids.

All came over for evening dinner one night. Alas, a few days later they tested positive for covid. Then Zak, our head ski coach was down with extreme fatigue, Friday. Natasha and I helped them at the jumps. They left on Sunday morning, getting as many jumps in as they could, despite their coaches being down.

That was Friday, and Zak, Natasha, Jeanne, and myself had scheduled a week long bike trip along the Denali Highway, here in Alaska. It is one of the most scenic drives anywhere. 134 miles (215 kilometer) of grandeur. It is yet early for fall colors, but still incredible and the mountain views are spectacular. It is often crowded with hunters as the Nelchina caribou herd goes through there, but with climate change the caribou are diminishing and changing their ways, hence hunting is closed for a few years, and the numbers of humans along the highway diminished.

Saturday morning early I developed a fever and cough and by morning was exhausted and slept the day. I tested for covid Saturday morning, but negative. Called the health clinic, concerning a possible paxlovid Rx, but it was Saturday, so only left a message. Saturday evening I tested positive, and apologized to the crew about ruining the bike ride. Our one week off for the summer, where we can enjoy our delightful home. Sunday I remained down, barely able to get out of the bed I had made in the basement away from Jeanne. Zak was also sleeping away the day.

Sunday night after sleeping for the past two days, in middle of night I awoke and felt a bit better. In the morning I read the weather report for Denali Highway and it was sunshine. The last month has been very rainy here in Anchorage, and all are tired of the rain. I texted Natasha and said let’s go. We picked her up at noon, leaving Zak sound asleep on the couch, and drove the 6 hours to Tangle Lakes campground, stopping at Ernestos Mexican restaurant for a quick meal. I kept my distance, and there was not a mask to be seen. One would never know Covid existed. Along the way the health clinic called, returning my message of Saturday, but stated they could not prescribe Paxlovid with a negative test, which is what I had Saturday morning. I tried to tell them it was positive Saturday night but reception was lost until we returned the next Friday at Cantwell, after the ride. I had four messages telling me to call them when reception returned. I returned the call stating I was better and too late for Paxlovid.

Alaska in the summer can be very crowded, and the days of just going camping, are very few. Most places reservations are required and most people do not camp, but bring their homes with the generators going. Denali Highway is different, it is BLM government land and one can camp just about anywhere. Delightful. The Tangle Lakes campground had several spots, hence we could have a picnic table.

Morning came and we wandered down to the stream going into Tangle Lake, and caught a small grayling fish for breakfast. Delightful, although only one small fish for the three of us was a tease.

Pancakes and fish for breakfast
Blueberry picking McClaren River drainage

Natasha and Jeanne took off biking and I thought I would take it easy as still feeling a bit tired. Jeanne rode 10 miles (16 k) and declared her front derailleur not working right. I have told her to fire her mechanic but turns out she likes me and keeps having me repair it. It worked earlier in the summer. I took over riding, ending the day with 39 km for me. Clearwater creek pullout.

I got very excited seeing the mountain poking through, with memories of a past mountain climbing life. I had tried McGinnis, and Mt Hayes, in 1975 and 1976, getting caught in storms on both and retreating. It was wonderful to see and trying to ascertain which was which -Mt. Hayes, McGinnis, Moffitt, Shand, Aurora, and farther west Gillam, Geist, and then Hess and Deborah. All big world class mountains. That evening out on the tundra we enjoyed a magnificent view of Moffitt.

Along the Denali Highway
Clearwater camp

Wednesday, I played with the derailleur a bit, and declared it better. ( I did my worst in front derailleurs, in bike school, 14 years ago.) The riding here was flat or it seemed, but alas flat entails rolling hills and a geologic feature called eskers, which do require some shifting. Jeanne tried riding but I took over riding for another 37 kilometers, and she got about 10 miles in. We alternated driving the car.

Natasha and I arrived at one of our favorite sights, along the highway. Just a pullout along the road but the view is amazing if it is clear. Jeanne had driven back and forth over about 5 miles researching the perfect pullout to camp. Jeanne had collected wood along the way and we had a campfire, which calmed the bugs down a bit, and I spent my time wishing the clouds over the mountains would clear, which was only vaguely successful with imagination. A delightful dinner of ravioli, I fell asleep and Jeanne and Natasha stayed up solving problems.

Thursday, again I rode another 37 k, Natasha rode to within 5 miles of Cantwell, where we normally start riding. It was over a hundred miles for her, for the trip. Jeanne picked more blueberries along the way and enjoyed the scenery.

We drove home paying respect to Craig along the Chulitna River. We had not been back by the Chulitina, since last summers episode. Stopped at Denali Brewing for pizza, and arrived home tired, and very happy.

Zak had been down through Tuesday and Wednesday for a total of 5 days down, and Thursday he rode 50 mile rides around Anchorage. Jeanne and Natasha showed no symptoms of covid.

The CDC I thought had said 5 days quarantine after first symptoms but turns out 10 days of mask. (Although as an aside our local hospital says you can work as soon as no symptoms). I have kept away from people (except in the restaurants where I tried to keep my distance)Today, Friday, I feel tired and a bit sore but OK, although a nap was required. I tested positive for covid tonight, just out of curiosity. Jeanne tested negative. Crazy. Life is interesting.

Saturday I was down again sleeping most of the day, with the evening improving. I tested negative Saturday evening, 9 days after the first symptoms.

Thus summer progresses. August almost finished and there is a hint of fall in the air. Delightful. As per usual this is my favorite time of year. ( Well whatever time of year it is, that is my favorite.)

Winter biking at home

“We are plain quiet folk and have no use for adventures. Nasty disturbing uncomfortable things! Make you late for dinner! I can’t think what anybody sees in them,”

The Hobbit

J.R.R. Tolkien

Read an article the other day about exercising and numbers and following the metrics. From INC. Magazine https://apple.news/A7iw63FcgSsOMHjvxv90vpg basically said it is nice to follow your heart rate, and speed and time and blah blah, but sometimes nice to just go out and enjoy.

Somehow I do not think I have had that problem of following the numbers real close, although I can definitely be accused of it. When my mom read my journal of sailing from Hawaii to Seattle she said I could have just put the journal in a spreadsheet. Ok.

But as I have aged I have gotten even slower and in turn somewhat paid more attention along the way. Ok maybe that is an excuse for going slow, but whatever I still follow the speed, and the heart rate and the blah blah blah, but it seems these days it just gives me a reference to who knows what.

Ok I ramble a bit. It is COVID time, it is winter and here in Anchorage it is but 6 hours of light a day now. Happily that is increasing now past the solstice. It is sometimes hard to get out and exercise, although one definitely feels better after.

But in the riding around the delightful trails here one comes across decorations scattered about. And some bikes have decorated themselves with Christmas lights. Just because there is only a short window of light does not mean one cannot get out. Today’s flashlights, headlamps, torches and such leave no excuse for limiting ones time to daylight.

Trail side decorations

Spectators

Even Santa had a stop along the trail

Trail side decorations