Two days to remember

My best vacation is your worst nightmare.

Bumper sticker seen in Moab, Utah

Left Uyani at 8 am with everyone cycling, all happy, but within 2 kilometer the washboard started. Soon everyone was attempting to find a smooth route somewhat resembling our direction. A trail developed to the left of road which cars had been driving on and appeared smoother. Somehow I ended up near the front, then a brilliant idea for a picture looking back at the line of riders emanating from the town against the flatness of the horizon. There were a few hills but mostly the flatness of the salar. I stopped but there was no one behind me, but 1/2 a k back I could see a crowd gathered. That did not look good. Alas nothing I could do so continued to bounce along trying to find a smooth line for a few meters at a time.

Brigit caught up with me shortly later with the news. Buck had gone over his handlebars crossing the tiny berm to the side trail. She said he had probably broken his shoulder and was in extreme pain. That put a damper on my mood. For the next 50 kilometer I thought his ride was probably over and may even have to return to LaPaz and home. I would not even see him.

Lunch was supposed to be at a tiny village at 56 kilometer but the camp truck passed saying all they knew was Buck had gone to hospital with Annalot, our doctor. There probably would be no lunch truck today and gave us some rolls, and filled our water as it was going to be a long hard day. Everyone including the truck was trying to find a way through the washboard, even going out into the desert and trying to find hard ground to ride.

We finally came to the village and a shop was open where we were able to purchase bananas, apples, an orange soda, water, and jello. Barry and Terry caught up saying Buck was in bad condition from the pain and even if he got better there was no way he could drive on this road. Alas the mood dipped.

I rode on soon taking my usual place still riding last or near last. At 75 kilometer the lunch truck passed and Buck was in the back smiling. Yahoo. I thought about hopping aboard but thought only 35 k to go. As soon as they left I thought “did I just make a big mistake?” Once the trucks pass one is on their own. I knew I was getting very tired. Caught up with Terry, Berry, and team Norway (Hilde, and Knut who informed me Buck had just dislocated shoulder and it was back in place.

Rode on slowly gaining altitude and the washboard continued with occasional soft sand which required walking. Glad I had switched tires yesterday to wider despite little tread. Feeling pretty miserable and wondering what the hell was I doing. Washboard, soft sand, uphill when at 83.73 kilometer a thought suddenly hit me that I was on my bicycle and despite being exhausted was having fun. Climbed the hill and descended but a new fear arose. The descent was fast going about 45 kph, over heavy washboard. I was afraid the bike was going to disintegrate with the rattling. It was crashing and banging hard. But the Ibis Tranny was doing great, although my behind was not so lucky and regretted changing saddles to the fizik gobe. Alas it was a trial.

Caught up with Jorg whose gut was acting up and we rode the up and down hills till time to turn off road and onto the river bed which supposedly avoided the hills of the road if the river bed cooperated and was hard enough to ride. It was, and we had a delightful ride somewhat coasting down occasionally pedaling having to ride across the small bit of flowing water. Beautiful little canyon, and the side country was developing into southern Utah like country. After 7 kilometer arrived at the town of Atoche, a mining town where Rob was waiting for us checking off people to see who came the road or river. Hardy 2 was the only unaccounted for person. Jorg and I rode on for the final 7 k of difficult uphill out of the canyon. Rob waited for Hardy. It was a very steep climb and I ended up walking a portion. I was just exhausted. Finally topped out and the country side was incredible with towers and spires and colors and changing scenery. But I was definitely again questioning myself.

Finally arrived camp about 5:30 after a very long day. It was a beautiful site although not much protection beside the road. But all cheered and congratulated me saying it had been a very hard day on all. Everyone had had a hard time.. So where I had questioned my abilities and was thinking of going in the truck tomorrow, I felt rejuvenated and would try again tomorrow. But as Rob said tomorrow was harder. The day would climb back to 4300 meters from our current 3700 then descend to our lowest point in Bolivia about 3200 meters. Still higher than anything in the lower 48 U.S., except a few peaks in Colorado and California.

And a full moon and a lightening show to the south where we head tomorrow.

8 October 2014 bush camp. 7 kilometer south of Atocha, Bolivia

It is always nice for me to awake in the desert. Open your eyes just as it is getting light and see the last of the fading stars and the glow in the eastern horizon. Those moments to oneself when one feels oneself coming alive again.

Had been a problem the day before with Walters lunch truck. The spare tire had bounced out of the carrier beneath. Rob (one of directors of bike dreams) and Walter had gone back last evening to try and find and they were not back this morning. So it was asked that those that could ride do so as little room. Buck was only one to go in truck as injured.

So we prepared only to have Walter and Rob arrive just as ready to depart. 4-5 got in as they do not like the washboard.

The day was a day of changing scenery climbing, and descending.started at about 3700 meters eventually the high point was 4251 meters. Then descended ending up here at Tupiza at 3100 meter. But not quite that simple. There was a lot of up and down. Up a hundred down 75 up a hundred. The day ended with 1500 meters of ascent.

The final big descent was long and the wrists were very sore. Hardy and I exclaimed when we reached the bottom “wow, there are trees, and they are green”. We have not seen trees I quite a while due to the altitude, and greening up is just starting up high. Wondrous.

Hardy and I rode the last 20 k together stopping often for pictures saying better to be slow than not remember what this was as probably never be here again. And the scenery was now much like southern Utah. Cliffs canyons, rock formations. No wonder Butch Cassidy and the sun dance kid lived here. They met their demise in this area although it was not the Hollywood version of the movie. Arrived at hotel about 5:30 after a long hard ride.

Another rest day, wash clothes, sleep, spending the day mostly deciding best option for activity. Something about line dried clothes. I love em. Maybe it is the stiffness or the sterile feeling from the baking in the sun, whatever they just seem nicer to me. Up on the patio a cool breeze blowing keeping the sweat to a minimum. And drinking a beer and eating an apple. Life is good.

Ciudad de Uyuni rest day

If you wish to know the Divine, feel the wind on your face and the warm sun on your hand. Buddha

Awoke after a great nights sleep on the salt bed. Per usual had about 4 heavy blankets to keep warm. Fortunately I like heavy blankets. But problem-bike dreams and hotel had no coffee, just tea. Arghhh. I require coffee, and luckily know this so, so I had stowed away several Starbucks via instant coffees. Well all the coffee here is instant, but Starbucks vias are good coffee. I have gotten used to the Nescafé, but still an emergency ration was necessary. I became a hero.

Then bicycling and it was time trial day. Remember this is a race although only one (James) is really racing. But what the heck I entered with about 20 others. The rest just took off and headed to the finish and on to the town of Uyuni. At the finish everyone was coughing and hacking from jumping on the bike and roaring full tilt boogie for 7 kilometers at 3625 meters. I knew within a hundred meters I had made a mistake, but only 6900 meters to go. Finished in my usual last place finish.

After a pleasant ride into town of another 27 kilometer arriving about 11 am. Nice hotel, again Buck and I are on third floor, and surprise hot water. And no surprise internet, but as soon as 40 people get on, it became incredibly slow, and intermittent. One must be careful

The town itself has a population of about 6000 and is purely a tourist town as a step off onto the salt flats. Arriving on Sunday things were very quiet. But a rest day for catching up, so gather the weeks dirty clothes and take to the Lavanderia for washing. 2 1/2 kilos cost 37.5 bolivianos (about $5.00). The question is will I get any of it back. Supposed to be ready at 6 pm Monday.

Today is now Monday although definitely had to look that up. Cleaned the bike, greased the bottom bracket, changed the chain, changed tires to wider ones in hopes of a softer ride next days off road riding. Interesting changing tubeless tires which normally requires a compressor for inflation. Here only a floor pump and exertion. It worked.

Checked out the bike by riding out to the train cemetery where dozens of steam engines and carriages have been parked. Interesting to see them sitting in the dirt. Walter one of our drivers (from Vienna, Austria) had been out mountain bike riding as he did not have to drive today. We looked and tried to figure out what was what and just enjoyed the afternoon.

Back to town and attempted to connect via computer without wifi in attempt to download pictures from camera to iCloud, but a no go. So back to trying with wifi. Have now taken about 2000 pictures and takes way to long to back up onto iPad. Then try and determine which ones go to show although editing is minimal due to difficulty loading editing etc.

And tomorrow back to riding. 2 days off road 103 and 130 kilometers with 900 and 1500 meter climbs. Interesting. Another rest day then a couple days to Salta, Argentina with a descent to lower altitudes.

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Update got the laundry but had to pick off line myself. Ok also be careful of steps not always the same height.

Salar de Uyani

“I have seen some memorable things in my life, and today’s ride ranks up there!”
Terry Wall from Australia

Well we did it, and Terry summed it up best. Absolutely amazing. We left camp and rode a hundred meters down a ramp onto the salt, two flamingoes feeding beside the road. The salt is that,salt, and flat polygons just as seen in the arctic, only about a meter across almost all five sided, with the ridge between polygons a centimeter or two high. You can ride anywhere or direction, but there is a road leading to the island where we were headed.

After 40 kilometer we reached the lunch truck and drank and ate a bit. For 10-15 bolivianos you could walk about the saguaro covered island. I opted to lookand not walk.

After lunch we changed direction from south to east for 62 kilometers. It was like sailing on the ocean, the horizon went on and on, just an occasional snow covered peak at the edges. The salt flats is 25 times the size of Bonneville salt flats in Utah.

And I may change my perception that south is downhill. Easy to prove, put a marble on a globe and it will go south. When headed due south we were cruising at 22 kph and when going due east we were cruising at 28. Maybe east is downhill. Perhaps I did not account for rotation of the earth. Or another theory might be there were several tour buses going to the island and the “road” was more hard packed, or maybe the tailwind. Whatever we just cruised everyone stopping to take pictures frequently.

With about 10-15 k to go Terry and Elizabeth caught up with me and we finished the final bit at 30 kph. 103 kilometer day in 6 hours including lunch and photo stops. 4 hr 20 of riding. And very glad I had completely covered myself head to toe with clothing. The sun was intense on that white surface. Like being on a glacier.

Finally a building of sorts appeared on horizon and our accomadations for the night. The hotel is basic roof (fiberglass or thatch), walls (entirely of blocks of salt), door of wood, and a salt floor.. In Bucks and my room the floor is salt bricks outside it is more like beach sand. And that is our motel, there is a flourescent light but it does not work ( may require a generator), and no water (bike dreams truck has a 750 gallon tank but we are on fourth day). And no bathroom, well I have been told there is one but best to avoid if possible. Hence I a in a quandary whether to put on the SPOT locator for Jeanne a motel or camp. If one does not like it land is 7 kilometer away.

A delightful evening dinner with Marias, Hanne, Joost, Buck, and Michelle, and myself. Lots of time for discussion as were told dinner would be at 7. Finally finished about 9:15. Bolivian time. But turning in to a wine drinker and enjoyed that last eve. Chilean wine for 100BOB ( about $15) . We discussed our favorite food or meal (waiting for dinner) (generally included good cheeses, and Alaska salmon) and favorite movies (Enemy at the Gates, Cold Mountain, Out of Africa, Amalie, and Soldier of Orange). And Marias and Hanne knew the three French people cycling from Anchorage to Ushuaia. They had cycled with them for a few days two years ago when Marias and Hanne were cycling Anchorage to San Francisco. Then off to our dark room and to face the bathroom. As to motel or camp. Definitely a motel as camp is way more comfortable although this salt block bed is not bad.

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And posting this rapidly as had written a long blog covering past week instead of hitting publish I hit discard. Now trying to recover.

Altoplano

Stage 47 122 kilometers 1 October
Departed Oruro and headed south off the main road. Within a couple of kilometers a lake was at our side with hundreds of flamingos feeding. Many more than are in our yard at home, and these were moving about, not standing still as in our yard. I realized I had made a bad decision to not carry the big camera today. I thought we would just be riding along the flat plains. It proved every changing scenery, especially as the clouds created different lighting.

About 10 kilometer down the straight road a fellow walking a bicycle with a branch for a broom was sweeping the side of the road of loose rocks. The scenery was ever changing. Lunch was to be at about 60 k but no truck due to construction. At 70 k there was a village beside the road, which had been very rough with construction for the past 15 kilometer. Wilbert and Rob purchased several cases of soda and some cookies which was about all the town had to offer. Finally the trucks made it and Ellen prepared some sandwiches for desert and we refilled water bottles. Back on to pavement and a delightful trip for the next 52 kilometer. Generally following the 3800 meter contour line on the map. Directions had been a 111 kilometer day but no truck again. Finally over a rise and a town with the bike dreams flag out was seen. They had set up in the apparent meeting hall for cooking and such. We set our tent in amongst the nearby walls, and I went for soup. Delicious! As folks set up their tents there were three ladies watching people set up our tents laughing and having a gay old time watching these gringos.

Shortly after soup it began to rain and I rushed back to the tent as I had left the flap open. Dived in just as it started in earnest. Spent the next couple of hours just futzing about the tent. Finally worked up the energy to emerge after it seemed the rain, lightening, and thunder were finished. I discovered a saguaro like cactus 50 meters just above us, but as I was going to explore, the dinner siren went off. Priorities!

Another delightful dinner under the dim light of the 3 remaining light bulbs. After dinner we discovered we were a big deal in town and had been invited to some shenanigans in the square at 8 pm. It was only 6:30 and normally all, of us would be in bed by 7:30. It was going to be a late night. To keep awake I walked the 3 blocks into the town square finding it quite deserted and the town quiet except for a few kids wandering. I returned to find I had skipped my first duty night of helping in kitchen. I thought I was on last night, and had volunteered Monday instead as hotel last night. Alas!

The shenanigans were a visit to the local church. Sorry but it strikes me as funny that this poor town has a large church with the usual catholic gaudiness. Seems 1/2 the money in town is wrapped up in the church. Well that is their belief and not for me to judge. It was rather impressive as many catholic churches are. And on our arrival into town the locals had been having a blessing in front of the church for a successful crop which will be planted shortly. Quinoa and potatoes. The quinoa requires close attention until it is about 20 centimeters tall.

Tomorrow promises interesting. Minimal pavement following primarily a dirt track along some electrical lines. Have been warned the gps track may be a little off and paper instructions probably better. Sandy and several folks changed to wider tires. We shall see. Excited to get off road.

Stage 48. 110 kilometer off road 80
Whew made it to the meteor crater which I never realized was a meteor crater. I had gone out to relieve myself at dinner and there it was. A very large hole in the ground, probably a kilometer or more across. But getting here was exhausting and the day is not over. Exhausted, it is 7:30 I am in a damp tent, wind has calmed to about 15-20 from maybe 60-70 and I am chilled. So back to the chronology. I only mention that in case the writing gets weirder than usual.

Up at 5:30 hoping to get a few early pictures of the cactus. Found others up making their nightsoil. Trying not to disturb them. I had already done my bodily requirements and proceeded with my pictures of sunrise and cactus.

Off we left for a nice 10 k ride then we split up. Options today were for pavement and some pavement under construction supposedly 100 k. Other option was through the country off-road, but with past rains unsure of ability to cross the desert like country. Trucks would not go off road, as sand and potential mud to get stuck in. This option also was 100k and truck would provide lunch at 60 k where there was a junction.

One thing about this trip, it is done every 2 years starting in 2008, thus this is fourth time. It is always a challenge as roads change, dirt roads (our preference) get paved. Wilbert and Rob try to keep up but this was one of those days as a work in progress. They warned us either route was probably not described well on paper directions handed out in evening briefing or the GPX files for GPS were probably flawed too.

The time for the choice arrived and I chose off road. We were immediately in sand and I let air out of tires. But 100 meters later a sort of road was found and I had to pump a bit back in. Then a wondrous ride winding through the sand dunes. Llamas appeared everywhere, then 2 groups of about 20 Vicunas, which are the wild version of Llamas. Llamas and alpacas are domesticated and herded. We came to a river and numerous Llamas were in the water, and there were new babies. Wilbert described it as riding through national geographic.

About noon came to a village and we were mobbed by about 100 kids aged about 7-9 years old. I am not sure they had ever seen gringos, especially ones on bikes. We stayed about 30-45 minutes, bought out the only store of all the coca cola and candy cakes they had which was all they had.. That was our lunch. Let one kid ride my bike and he thoroughly enjoyed it going back and forth and back and forth the entire time. Alfred did the same and we were afraid we would never get to leave. Other kids just stared, others looked. Quite an experience. Some elders came out and dozens more pictures were taken.

Finally left with 60-70 k left to go. The road was sort of a farm road lots of washboard, an occasional sand trap. And acres of plowed fields apparently getting ready for quinoa planting.

At kilometer 85 met up with the paved road and those riders who had chosen that way happened by minutes later. They were at 125 kilometers for them. We had 25 left to go. I lost my oomph after 85 of off road, but chugged along. Our off-road group had traveled as a group in the desolation of the off road, but on the pavement it was ok to separate and I dropped back exhausted.

Made the 25 kilometer stopping about 5 k before the theoretical end as looked nasty ahead with lightening and rain ahead. I did not want to get chilled on arrival so out on rain coat and warmers. Arrived at camp just as the storm started to hit. Immediately grabbed the tent and found a place next to rock wall. No time to stand around or rest after the ride as the wind was blowing about 60 now. And threatening hard rain immanently. Managed to get the tent up without too much rain inside. Went back to trucks which group had found a building available for cooking and eating inside. Waited as I was not ready to carry my duffle to tent yet. Buck came in soaked.. His tent near collapse as he had set up before the wind and now it was crossways and flattened. We went to get it straightened but ended up completely moving it down near mine. With great difficulty managed the tent pegs and his set up, again making a run for the cook shelter. Now exhausted breathing hard and getting chilled, both of us were still in bike gear. Had hot soup which helped and finally took my duffle throwing it in tent which is already small. This was a rather serious situation. Managed to change out of bike clothes and went to dinner. A nice dinner of goulash with pudding desert.

Now in sleeping bag, trying to get warm. Weather had somewhat improved but I hear the rain. Discussion about the weather. Past years Bolivia had about a total of 5 minutes of rain on bike dreams traveling through. This time nearly every day. Someone mentioned maybe the wet season is starting early. Apparently one local said this year it is about 5 weeks early, as in now. Others said it is a El Niño year and we know how that changes things. Whatever it is, it is weird.

But tomorrow we top a rise and see the salar de Uyani. Exciting. But 76 kilometer to go and if raining will be really miserable. Tomorrow is a different day.

3 October 2014 meteor crator to Tahua at the edge of the Salar de Uyuni. Stage 49. 73 kilometer

Rained most of night and of course wet when getting up, but right after breakfast began to clear a bit. Still tent and stuff packed away wet. Good day of biking all off pavement. As Barry said it was hard as you worked for every meter, even the downhill. Heavy washboard, then rocky, much like the rougher sections of white rim trail in Utah. F in a car could do without a 4 wheel drive but certainly would help although in the end only 500 meters of climbing ending up at 3625 meters right on the edge of salt flats.

And climbing the last hill it certainly was a spectacular sight to look out on the salt flats. Goes way over the horizon with a few islands in it, white and flat. It is 25 times the size of the Bonneville salt flats in Utah. The level is within one meter overall, and apparently is used but for the space shuttle or space station to calibrate radar elevations. Apparently just a meter below the surface is 50-70% of the worlds lithium. The developed world would love to get at it, but Bolivia is trying to develop in a way the locals get some compensation, and not destroy the lucrative tourist industry which comes to see the salt flats. Tomorrow we ride 102 kilometers across the flats, to the tourist area. Where we are now is definitely not tourist. About as far as you can get from tourist.

Today I was incredibly slow which was fine. Taking pictures and plodding along alone. Very glad I had GPS with track on it as numerous turns going to various small villages (usually populations of less than 100). This area the past 2-3 days is the quinoa capital of the world. As I look out at the plowed fields am totally amazing anything will grow. Dirt and rock. Apparently this is where it thrives and quinoa only grows at high altitude. Again the farmers are getting little of the benefit.

Finally pulled into the town square where everyone was gathered from bike dreams. The usual place they camp was now a field prepped for planting, so Wilbert and Rob were finding a new place. As noted prior this is not a tourist area and they have no infrastructure to support tourists. I think we bought out the store of supplies. And that is only for our extra use. Bike dreams gets its water and food supplies back in the cities. But they found a very nice camp, right on the edge of salt flats, green grass sort of although very short. The usual llamas feeding nearby. And I am exhausted, got tent up and drying and have been in it all afternoon. Have been cycling for two weeks now and tired.

I remember on the great divide it was day 21 Joe and I began to question our motivation, ability and desire to finish. It became one day at a time and a good lesson learned. Today I was thinking how when you get on the bicycle you are alone and you must ride the bike. No one else can do it for you. As Joe advised me before the start of this trip “ride your own ride”. And that is all you can do, if you try to do more you will burn out, do less and you won’t accomplish what you want or can do.

Oh good, apparently I slept through dinner. Michelle noted I was not there, as they had set up in a building in town. Now I do not have to get out of this tent as it is cold outside. She brought me an apple and I had the snacks I had purchased a few days ago, so no problem. 4 hour nap and now 12 hours of sleep. Life is good.

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LaPaz & more

Will I live tomorrow?
Well, I don’t know
Will I live tomorrow?
Well, I don’t know
But I know for sure
I will live today

Jimi Hendrix

Thoughts of our visit to LaPaz. It is another city. It has it’s unique qualities such as being built in a steep valley. I am amazed at the steepness of the slopes of which they build on, and multistory buildings. The city is apparently somewhat divided by the richer and poorer areas as are most cities. In taxi rides about town one saw the discrepancies, in general lower elevation were preferred. There is a gondola which stretches over the city from one end to the other. I am not sure if it is tourist or transport oriented. That view would provide an interesting perspective.

As in much of Bolivia trash is scattered about and there are smells of all sorts of human activity. Street vendors are scattered about the sidewalks and in the roadway, selling everything from kitchen Formica to tourist knick knacks, food vendors with some delicious looking meals. And hidden away restaurants which are difficult to see on the outside but delightful inside (with wifi). A barrage of the senses. I did not eat much as feeling sick but on our departure while waiting for Ellen, our cook, to do some final shopping for wine and cake I did sample an excellent empanadas. Fresh out of the oven and just delivered to the street vendor. Filled with beef, vegetables, hard boiled egg, olives. Oh my gosh it was a taste sensation. Sickness be damned. The two two dozen which were delivered were all gone by others by the time I had eaten and paid for my empanadas and coffee.

We had arrived in LaPaz on Friday afternoon and as noted in an earlier blog I was alone and got lost. Now I have discovered I was way lost not even remotely on the route. But I made it and another adventure was had. Saturday early we began the death road bike trip which took an entire blog site. One addition to the end of the death road was when we finished at a place called Monte Carlo resort where we had eaten and showered. After eating we were sitting out on patio watching the parrots arguing and flying about and seeing monkeys on the other side of the valley. Joost and I noticed under a banana leaf a white nodule about 10 centimeter across and deep with crawlie things. So we inspected to get a closer look. It appeared an ant colony as the critters were about medium ant size. Getting yet a closer look and lifting the leaf more the white nodule began to turn black and pulsate.. It was a wasp nest and they were now mad. We scrambled away waving arms like mad men. Ouch and ouch. 3 of us got a painful bite joust, Barry, and myself.

Sunday arrived and I was still feeling as they say in Australia a bit crook. But the diarrhea seemed somewhat at least under control. So joined 7 others we hailed to cabs by waving your arm in front of them as they drive by and proceeded to a futball game of the local LaPaz team against someone else. What a hoot. About 8000 in attendance and being Sunday was family day. Stadium was open air and about 1/2 to 2/3 full. No announcer to rouse up the crowd but all was good. Bought our tickets through a chain link fence wandering through the team paraphernalia, styrofoam cushion for sale, and food vendors of which I had to try. Empanadas, sausages, oh my gosh great. Diarrhea be damned this was amazing.

The game was good although not great. The home team won 2-0 and the fans were happy. When the final whistle blew everyone took there styrofoam cushions and tossed them into the air. At this time it was raining hard so Terry and I each purchased a poncho and worked our way out the only exit open. Found a cab in which the driver was not familiar with our area of town and we wandered around a bit, when we decided to walk, as we knew we were in our neighborhood. Another adventure.

A good meal at a restaurant, my first as had not been feeling well. Home to the hotel and wonderous sleep. Buck woke me at 6:30 and I rushed to dress and prep for day. By the time I was dressed in bike gear I was exhausted and realized today’s biking was not to be. It has been six days of diarrhea and enough, so started antibiotic in hopes it is bacterial and changed to street clothes. I was going to go in the truck.

Our two trucks are converted fire trucks and designed to hold up to 10 people including the driver. Enroute out of town we stopped at a gas station filling up with 200 liters of diesel of which local price was $68, but we have to pay tourist price of $190. That is established as there is a different rate for tourists and locals. And fire trucks are not designed to drive long distances. One must admit it is unique to drive cross country in Bolivia in a fire truck. Today there were 8 of us. Robert the driver, Maria his wife, Ellen our cook, and in the back Cristen from Norway, Elizabeth from Australia, Vivian from Australia who started in Quito but had left in Cusco for her daughters wedding in Sydney returning to trip in LaPaz, and Barry from Australia, and me. 135 kilometers later we are what we call a bush camp. Just camping beside the road near a village where there used to be a hotel but it is no longer there. Robert went and checked with the mayor ( or whatever the official is) and asked permission that we camp in the futball pitch. The mayor came and met us ( none of the bikers had arrived yet) and he seemed impressed I was from Alaska, the land of the white bears. If it rains hard it may be a bit muddy as the ground is just dirt.

The countryside is continuing altoplano. Looking out it appears the new sprouts of grass are emerging and the sheep with their new lambs give hints of coming springtime. Great time of year.

And today is Jeanne’s and my anniversary. Marriage is not always easy but I believe I am proving easy does not always make it good. Sometimes working hard leads to a wonderful time. And I would not trade the past 23 years for any other adventure. Hoping for another 23 years.

And an amazing afternoon and evening. Set up tent and shortly later 5 mm size hail then pouring rain. I thought wow, in 3 camps thus far for me I have had more rain than Joe and I had in 71 days on the great divide. But then the rain stopped and the wind with thunder and lightening. Keep in mind we are out on a big plain. I and assume others were in our sleeping bags just napping keeping warm, but the wind was now blowing about 30 mph. (Sorry I cannot guess kilometer). And my tent was sideways. It is the same tent I took on the great divide but it had never been tested in wind. Thought it was going to be flattened but it survived. Finally after a nap and watching the center pole bend in all various contortions, I got out and reset the tent length wise which made the tent happier. It has to last 2 1/2 more months.

The trucks during this time had moved. Apparently the school next to futball pitch had invited us to use two classrooms for cooking and eating. Hence indoor in one of the classrooms. Great meal noodles chicken, sauce, spinach, beans, with a great Bolivian wine of a good year (2014). Guess I will learn to like wine as entering some great wine country. After a cake with whipping cream, and some fruit on top. Then I put myself on cleanup and dishes began. Cleaning up for 45 people plus the school headmaster and a couple of students and teachers. A four part system first a big pan of hot water with soap and heavy dose of Clorox, two people use this and do first wash, then second wash is same without Clorox, third is rinse then dry and fourth separate the dishes into appropriate bins. And a good time was had by all (about 10 of us).

On the school walls were a few papers showing studies of the crusades in Europe, and studies of the valence state of the elements of the periodic chart. Not a book in sight or paper other than that on the wall.

After dinner coffee and chocolate and I meander to my tent by 8:30. Late by my standards. Feeling better would like to ride tomorrow but will wait to see how the night goes. Only a 99 kilometer day with 350 meters of elevation, but do not want a setback.

And looking ahead until 14 December when we end in Ushuaia we have only 13 hotel, hostels now. So this is my home for a while. Goodnight all. I hope you are all well and finding life as interesting as I do.

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Traffic police outskirts of LaPaz

Terry buying a ticket for big game

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Copacabana – LaPaz. Stage 43-44

Slept great at hotel but awoke about 3 am with difficulty breathing. Not difficulty but just seemed I could not get a full breath. Realized altitude was affecting me, even after nearly 4 weeks. Talked with others at breakfast and all seemed to have similar experiences. No matter if acclimated there is still a shortage of oxygen here.

So got on bike at 8 am and proceeded to climb 800 meter climb over 13 kilometer. What a way to start the day. But the day proved great. As one said every once in a while the ride of the day is great. Up the hill, the across the big hills at 4185 meters and a descent down the other side of the peninsula through the eucalyptus trees. Beautiful lunch spot over looking town where we caught the 15 minute ferry ride. Vessel was a wooden thing carried a bus and about 20 bicyclists. Push off and land via poling, then a 35 hp motor pushed the we meter long boat. No charge to board but 5 BOB (about $.85) to get off. Then another climb and descent. Road great with smooth pavement and few cars, none aggressive. Beautiful riding, a bit chilly to start but ended warm after 68 kilometer along shores of Lake Titicaca. Inca Utamaro Hotel & Spa. Rooms not ready but bike dreams had soup and birthday cake for Bridgit outside while we waited. Then, less than an hour after eating I could not help it and went swimming. Not coming this far and not swim in Lake Titicaca. Very nice although only went about 50 meters, temperature not bad low 20’s maybe, although every one else said way to cold. I thought great, but immediately after did take a hot shower to clean off.

Several folks rather sick and took truck today. Explosive diarrhea. Ugh. Hoping I can avoid, but eventually probably will be hit.

And after a week feel like I am am beginning to integrate. Folks learn me and I learn them. 35 people who have been through hard times is a hard group to join, but it is happening. Feels good. Each of them said even at the beginning they had a week or two to coalesce as a group. Some very fascinating people.

A and new tidbit about the Incas. Apparently at the what is here the winter Soltice In mid June, they would look to the stars in search of a 15 star cluster known now as the Pleiades. If it was clear the following planting season was to be good. If the cluster was not really clear they held back planting a bit, recently an American scientist looked at this and the events correlated with El Niño years. In other words they could predict El Niño 500 years ago and change crops accordingly.

Beautiful hotel here at side of southern end of lake, the Cordillera Real is visible with its big snow covered peaks, which six are over 6000 meters in height. Once again I am discovering the Andes are big. A fisherman was out on his reed boat this evening. A nice afternoon. And not the least bit frustrating as I did not even try to find wifi and internet. Hence no crashes and timeouts and such. Technology, maybe best to enjoy the moment,,

Writing this as a continuum as seems appropriate, but more important as internet wifi allows. Everywhere advertises wifi restaurants hotels etc but when more than two people log on system crashes and none. Yesterday I just wrote the blog and did not even try to post. Felt good to not be frustrated.

But today the 26 of September stage 44 to LaPaz. Diarrhea twice last night and seriously considering going in truck but felt ok this morn although hotel did have eggs for breakfast which I could not resist. Resisted other usual, fruit salad, jam, etc. figured 84 kilometer day and only 225 vertical. One of the easiest days one would figure. Wrong. Started out ok although I was not pushing only doing about 20 k/h back of pack. For 20 k we rounded the last southern bit of lake Titicaca and waved goodby to this huge lake. Then just gradual uphill climbing from 3825 to eventually 4100 on outskirts of LaPaz.

I was slow and ended up by myself. The daily map made no sense to me and gps would say turn right then would say off course. Basically ended up lost, even going through a pedestrian market which was quite chaotic with the bike. On a street which GPS said was arrival destination, but no bike dreams. Finally Carmen and Julie came out of a hotel after checking in there, one we are at did not meet there standards I guess.

Was the hardest ride of the trip yet for me. Numbers wise it should have been easiest. Again on the fourth floor huff puff huff puff up the stairs. Why am I always on the fourth floor. Last nite there was an elevator supposedly highest in the world, also the slowest and creakiest. Arrived at hotel I was going to take a shower but only Luke warm so just went to bed. So the diesel fumes remain.

The day was full of diesel fumes, traffic, potholes and was as advertised. On the morning briefing we were told to be careful coming into LaPaz as it has a steep descent into the city center where we are. Informed of potholes curbs, cars manholes without covers and they were all there. Plus trying to navigate.

LaPaz is a metropolitan city of 2 1/2 million mostly which nestled into this steep valley. From above it looked pretty, but once in its clutches another crowded city.

Just went out and found a vendor for crackers and some yogurt. See if that will stay in my system, rather than just pass right through.

And again as soon as we showed up the wifi internet system crashed. On way for crackers found a Internet cafe and will try and post this. Unsure about pictures, that may be too much.

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Death Road

Arrived LaPaz to 2 days of scheduled rest. Rest has not happened yet. We arrived Friday afternoon, now Sunday morn and continue to pile on the activities. Hence have been unable to post my impressions. Have been down with continuing diarrhea and have not been eating in restaurants where I can get a wifi connection. Whenever 40 of us hit the hotel internet it crashes and is getting extremely frustrating.

But LaPaz is in a mountainous area, the city nestled very tightly into a steep valley. The roads are steep and have not seen a flat one yet. Outside of town up one of the valleys is a road leading to the northern sections of Bolivia. Up until 2006 when a new road was finally built it was acknowledged to be the most dangerous road in the world. Google “death road” or “most dangerous highway in the world” and this road comes up. It is built into a cliff and at places is only 3 meters wide and is a 2 way road. Rules of the road changed so one drives on the left instead of the right, as in England, Australia, and several,other countries. Only on this road is it done so that drivers have a better feel of where their tires are. Sometimes in passing tires will overhang. Up to 330 people a year died on this road, and it is still open and used for traffic because the new road is over three times longer. It is so steep and has big drops there are sections that have been used for BASE jumpers. (Parachutist who jump in this case from land)

I find that most places would find such a thing appalling. Bolivia has turned it into a tourist attraction and is now a destination mountain bike road. We hired one of the local mountain bike companies to provide guides (generally one per five riders, but being experienced we got 2 for 20), full suspension bikes, and two busses to take us on the 67 kilometer death road. Departing our hotel at 8 am we worked our way through LaPaz and up to the hills above, finally achieving an altitude of 4725 meters (15,500 feet) where high alpine conditioned prevailed. It was snowing but turned to sleet and rain with foggy condition limiting visibility to barely a hundred meters. The company provided rain gear but acknowledged it had been used so many times it leaked. We became rather wet and cold stopping at a roadside vendor and getting hot coffee and snacks while paying our road tax for the death road.

So with a blessing of the bikes for our safety with an offering to Pachamama ( an Inca god). We poured rubbing alcohol on our tires, on the ground and a sip for us. Whew I have massive amounts of hair on my chest now.

I have ridden harder mountain bike rides but never one with the exposure of this one. At first we questioned our sanity, but as we descended through the rain and waterfalls biking was fun. A 67 kilometer high speed descent. Wow. Our guides were great stopping us every few kilometers to relay a bit of history. The worst was a bus passing went down with 130 people. Now it is inattentive mountain bikers who die, as I remember about 9 a year although I could be off on that. Looking around is not an option except when stopped. It is a steep, rutted, gravel road with water running down it.

We dropped down at one point measuring 60 kilometers an hour. The vegetation turned to rain forest and reaching the bottom having stopped and shed many layers we were in jungle with banana trees, papaya, parrots, and monkeys. Elevation 1100 meters (3600 feet) a 3600 meter descent (12,000 feet). With minimal pedaling.

A few beers to celebrate and a hot shower. Why hot showers down there and not up here in LaPaz I do not know but it was nice. Then the 3 1/2 hour bus ride feeling the decreasing oxygen as we returned to the hustle and craziness of LaPaz. A great day.

Now lying in bed in hotel my roommate Buck just said this is like a climbing trip. Each of us waiting for the other to get up and start the stove.
OK just waiting for breakfast at 7:30

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Copacabana

Arrived late evening (well for us) at 5:30, an hour later time change in Bolivia. Hotel at first seemed awesome large entry, staircases going to various places. Beautiful woodwork and artwork. Stairs to our third floor with a railing ready to breakaway. Room with Buck has large 2 double beds, beautiful wood floors and a view out onto beach. Bay filled with boats. Ok that is the good side.

Shower was luke warm, the room cold, and internet crashed shortly after arrival. Can’t have everything. But bike dreams had hot soup for us downstairs in the restaurant.

After cleaning up, unloading trucks, and usual chores, Buck and I went wandering. I had changed money at the money changers at border so we were ready. Took a bit but found the tourist street with restaurants and reported back to hotel. Numerous restaurants to choose from, pizza being the primary desire, and good wifi. Chose a Mexican one which seemed to meet the criteria. As soon as password was passed around for wifi it crashed. I ordered chicken enchilada with guacamole and a beer, others there pizza and some wine from Chili.

Took almost an hour for food to come but reasonable taste although my enchiladas were vegetables mostly onions. No guacamole. And no pie or ice cream for desert. Ended up getting ice cream sandwiches from vendor down the street.

Copacabana seems a tourist town and numerous backpackers. Streets not as busy as other towns, maybe because it is off the main routes a bit. One street in particular is main tourist central where we went to breakfast of a good omelette looking primarily for wifi which they said they had, but even though 4 bars it was the circle of death and nothing not even a simple text.

After a walk 50 meters down street where Internet cafe for 18 Bolivianos (about $2.00) let me sit and upload pix and talk to Jeanne via face time and have a wonderful time communicating with friends and family. Most of us agree internet more important than hot water.

A walk down the beach and getting warm. Just watching people laying out, washing cars. One taxi was about 40 meters from water and he had plastic bags he would fill, carry to his car, and wash till water evaporated. Women with their long black hair to waist in two braids tied together with hat, colorful skirts, sweater and apron, often carrying the colorful blanket tied over shoulder for a load of anything, baby, water, food, reeds, sticks, whatever.

Just a nice day lounging about. Lunch, beer, desert, pondering Bolivian existence. A tourist town and a rest day for us.

Tomorrow we head for LaPaz a two day journey with hotel enroute. La Paz will be busy two rest days there but much planned. Bike ride on death road and a football game Friday. Have never been to a real football game (soccer), should be interesting. Not sure about pictures due to internet.

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On pace lines and pelatons

The legs on the bike go round and round making
The wheels on the bike go round and round

Depart Puno with a police escort. Originally James and I took off but called back as we were following our written directions, and police had a better route. I felt like a King or maybe Sarah Palin; traffic stopped and we flew on through.

Shortly we were on road south along Lake Titicaca and a peloton formed after a few kilometers, then as road narrowed we went into a nice pace line cruising along at about 27-28 kilometers an our. Toos was out front.

For those not bicyclists a pace line is a line 2 to 3 or more riders following one after the other. The first rider breaks the air and creates a draft for the following rider to follow. When I was a teenager my friend Brent Cook and I would play with techniques and found when really going you could detect the draft effect almost a hundred yards back. For full effect generally one rides with wheels inches apart. It is great and it can increase your speed significantly. The problem is you are inches apart and riders must be aware of each other. The line becomes its own organism.

A peloton is similar except instead of a line, riders not only ride front and back but side to side. This works well with not only headwinds but crosswinds as it protects riders downwind..

Thus was the theme for Puno to Copacobana. The first 20 k was long pace line of maybe 20 riders. Too much traffic, but was nice just cruising alongside the lake. After a bit I figured Theo needed a break and I felt good so I broke from my 3rd or 4th position and went up front, but quickly found myself leaving the pack behind. I had rested up and felt good. Theosophy wife Toos came up and said best to stick to around 27 k. I dropped back although difficult for me to maintain constant speed. Then a little hill came up and those that could did and I felt like my lungs were going to explode. A hill climber I am not. The pack separated into varying pace lines.

A word on the altitude. Even though most have been at altitude for 7-8 weeks it still affects them. There just is not enough air. One person said “I feel good and think I am ok then bend over to tie my shoes and am out of breath”. For myself I feel good but do feel exhausted from little tasks. Like walking up a flight of stairs. Lake Titicaca is at 3810 meters (12,500 feet) above sea level. 40% of the earths atmosphere is below us. The locals have developed over time greater lung capacity and blood counts so they can live here over a lifetime.

At about 25 kilometers I decided some pictures would be great, as carrying my big Nikon today. So again I broke away and sprinted ahead till about 500 meters ahead. I felt like a biathlon, where you exercise greatly then do a task requiring total stillness. I did not catch up the 500 meters I fell behind for 11 kilometers when they stopped for construction. But it was great fun. Made lunch stop about 70 k and 11 am. Flying!

Lunch was about 1/2 hour and time to move on. Buck said he was dropping as first day he had ridden in two days due to illness and wanted to not push too hard, I said I was going to try and keep up with the line again as it was fun. Buck said to ride at my pace and not do more than I can. I thought of Joe, who did the divide and said ride my own ride. A peloton of 6-10 people was formed and great but after my lead I could not maintain and dropped out. I was pooped an decided to just enjoy the day. Stopped and took pictures, enjoying he scenery. Locals out preparing fields for planting sheep llamas feeding at side of road. The traffic had diminished greatly.

It was a great day although I was totally exhausted at the end. 145 Kilometers, cross winds, head winds, severe sun, some hills totaling 745 meters of climbing (2400 feet) and crossing the border into Bolivia all played a part in tiring everyone out.

Peru is done and a rest day in Copacabana, Bolivia.

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Internet very bad here off and on.

Cusco – Puno

It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of the country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. But you remember them as they actually are, while in a motorcar only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.

Ernest Hemingway

Cusco -Racqui Ruins stage 39 122 kilometers

Great day and am beginning to understand the routine, up about 6 (first light about 5:30) organize self, decide on bike clothes for the day, breakfast at 7 and discussion of days plan. 8 am load trucks with gear. Gear is separated into three bags: camping gear (tent, sleeping bag etc) which only comes out at camps, a bag of not needed stuff comes out only on rest days, (spare tires, parts, and things only needed in rest days). The final bag is day bag of things used everyday. That one is by far my heaviest.

This morning we left as group because of Cusco traffic and not a timed day to prevent racing in traffic. Stopped at Plaza Mayor for pictures by local newspaper. Then a lap of all around the Plaza with more pictures in front of cathedral, and finally off. It felt good and I realized I had wasted a good worry, wondering if I could do this. Once on bike I remembered I knew how to ride and it was fun.

People along the sides were cheering us on and the police stopped traffic at numerous stop lights so we could go nonstop through the first part of town. Then onto a busy road and we moved to the southern part of Cusco, eventually reaching outskirts and a pace line developed about 20 miles into the ride, which at this point was slightly downhill. We were cruising at about 35-40 km per hour, and it was a kick. But the roads like the sidewalks require constant vigilance as grates are not always perpendicular to the bike wheels, there are holes and bumps, curbs, and traffic going in all direction. There does not seem to be a 3 foot rule here so cars, buses, and trucks occasionally come close.

We wound our way to the Urobamba river and proceeded to slowly climb the valley the rest of day. It is the same road Jeanne and I travelled nearly 2 1/2 weeks ago on our bus trip to Puno. Camped at same Inca Ruins we explored on the tour. Remnants of one of the largest Inca buildings is here. Only the wall remains. A beautiful camp on the grassy flats. Not sure about latrines, as none. One of the girls commented not many trees for them.

But currently laying in tent pondering if I need to put up the rain fly as would be awesome stars tonight, but can hear thunder in mountains..

Wow I made it to 6:50 and now in tent trying to ID stars. Very nice stars with the Milky Way. Spent afternoon lounging around. Went to the town square where tourist stuff was set up, took pictures and just enjoyed. Just finished dinner and now in bed.

And many concerned about tomorrow hence a 6:15 breakfast and early start. We are at an elevation of 3475 meters with a climb to 4335 meters and descending to Pukara 159 kilometers away. One of the bigger distances on the trip. And tomorrow we enter the altoplano which we will cover for nearly 3000 kilometers in 4 weeks. Mostly flat, but high.

Exciting stuff

Racqui Ruins – 3 K short of Pucara bush camp stage 40. 159 kilometers

Awakened at 5 am by loudspeaker over the valley with some political announcement. Peru has an election coming up 5 October. Pack up tent and sleeping bag a bit wet do to dew. It did freeze last nite, but once the sun hit about 6:30 it warmed up nicely. Depart at 7:15 after packing trucks.

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A great day of riding but long. Made it in by 4 pm and distracted by soup before completing mission of getting camp gear. Then it started to sprinkle and I went to set up camp. Area is like the high desert but no sage brush, but has cow patties. Nice place but hard ground. And as finished setting up tent it really began to rain stopping when the truck siren went off announcing dinner. Good timing.

As for the day, 20 k very pleasant gradual up then started climbing for the next next 40 K arriving at pass (Aba la Raya) at 4335 meters about 11:30 to another awesome lunch. Roll, meats, cheese, guacamole, onions, veggies, and bananas and apples.

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Beautiful descent for 25 K averaging 40K per hour, then flattened out and kept a steady 20-25 K for the last 75 kilometers to camp. At first rode with Mario just so we had someone to ride with, but his gut was off with diarrhea and after 2 times for trip beside the road (no shelter or cover anywhere) he decided to take the truck which was still behind us, then I rode for a few kilometers with Hardy from Germany. He just joined in Cusco after riding Germany to Spain and flying to Brasilia and taking 3 months to ride to Cusco. He leaves in Mendoza and will ride to Rio. Says will miss trip south to Ushuaia, but stated one always will miss something. Better to just enjoy what you have. I have to agree with his philosophy. After a few K I left him and rode alone for remainder of day. Other riders way ahead.

The birds were amazing. Hawks mostly, a kestrel like bird, but appeared like a peregrine but did not act as such. A huge hawk, like a goshawk, soaring above. And a crow like bird size of raven with red and yellow beak. All the birds seem to have larger than usual wings.

And riding a gradual uphill about 10 Kilometers from end the usual dog laying beside the road. Seems a dog every kilometer or so and all appear to tired to barely look around, but this one just as I passed decided might be worth a try, and he took off. I had a head start so thought I could outrun him. Then his buddy from house 50 meters off other side of road decided to join in. I topped out at 38 kilometer an hour and thought they would quit, but they stuck with me for 1/2 a K before calling it off. One on each side. And I was pooped. Next move would have been slam on brakes and just stop. Everyone here agrees that is best: give them nothing to chase.

Watching folks was great along the way. Out of Cusco the corn is about a foot high and folks were out weeding. As we approached the pass they were just planting potatoes. All by hand with plowing either by hand or draft cows.

At one of the toll booths stopped by guard who wanted to congratulate me. At least I think that was the conversation. He only spoke Spanish hence a bit of confusion, but fun anyway. Bikes go through the toll for free. We are riding the main highway of Peru from north to south, although I think there is a main highway on coast too. Traffic much less near pass but still one must be cautious.

The people have been very pleasant and kids coming out to high five and slap hands going by. Makes me feel like I am part of something. Brought tears to my eyes when I think of this. But then I get tears when I see anyone pushing the limits and doing their best, no matter what; racing dogs, skiing, climbing, or raising kids.

And a great dinner of beef stroganoff, with a pudding like desert with bananas and something else in it. I had two helpings of dinner and desert. Now 7 pm and everyone in tents for another early start tomorrow. Very pleasant in tent. As Rob says camping is much nicer than hotels as every night is the same home. Hotels are different each time and you never know what to expect. Camp is consistent and mine very comfortable everything in its place.

And beautiful now as up to pee for before bed. Tents scattered about most with a light on, I suspect doing much as I am, recollecting the day and listening to it rain.

Pucara – Puno stage 41 111kilometers

Up at 5:30 so as get to Puno early, so those that want to can go visit the floating islands. Left camp at 7:15 arriving at lunch truck just shy of Juliaca by 9:30; 60 kilometer of flat riding. We were told to ride in groups as Juliaca can be a rough town. Apparently from the tour to Puno nearly three weeks ago with Jeanne they said Juliaca was only established about 1985 and is mostly immigrants from Bolivia. I remember it for the 15000 foot runway. Going through on a bus was one thing, riding bicycles is totally different. I half expected a gun fight to emerge in the streets. Then through the center of town with Marius, his wife Hannie, Brigit (all from Holland) and I all agreeing traffic was like Delhi and India. Except no elephants or camels, but there were sheep, pedicabs, 3 wheel bicycle carts, taxis, trucks, buses, minivans, pedestrians and us vying for the same small space. Wild! Have to watch the usual road conditions but 360 degrees around you as things come from any direction and rapidly. We were glad to make it through.

Other than Juliaca and the city of Puno the riding today was great. Flat (except last 8 kilometers with a 435 meter climb) but reminds me of why I like touring. You see the horizon and you just keep going to yet another horizon. You see hills in the distance and then you cross them and the next horizon emerges. I love it. Some did not like the flats but alas. And I realized my fear of starting in Cusco with the others having ridden for six weeks was a realistic fear. But the mountains wore them down. They are tired having ridden an average of 120 kilometers a day over rough terrain and climbs nearly every day of 1000 to 2500 meters. All are tired. At first I was very jealous of missing the ride from Quito to Cusco, but now not so sure. One cannot fail to underestimate the effects of altitude on us low landers.

And discussing living here, Hannie described it as bleak. Very few trees, and growing things is difficult. And it is dirty with trash. So much different than seeing from the bus. From the bicycle one gets the feel of the hills and altitude, the cold, and the existence of the locals. Very interesting I find.

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Am finding internet connection frustrating and this is not receiving the editing it should. But I should be enjoying the trip not playing with technology. Hope you are enjoying it. I am.

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