Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.
Paulo Coelho
Kept the bathroom door closed and room door open as our bathroom smelled of poo in the hotel in Tupiza . They had come by to clean it several times but the odor returned within a few hours.

But slept good and up for breakfast at 7, but all seats and more important coffee cups taken so a while for breakfast to get going. I ended up with just 1/2 cup cold coffee, a roll and jam, and of course banana. But morning briefing covered apparently there was a change in the reciprocity for for Argentina. Bike dreams in original information said no visa was required but a reciprocity fee was charged on arrival at airports, but not if one arrived by land. Apparently this had recently changed and the paper had to be obtained prior to crossing border. Only applied to U.S., Canadian, and Australian citizens. Most already had as paper good for ten years and they had previously been in Argentina. Or like Buck they checked elsewhere for Info.

So I immediately went to hotel computer as wifi was incredibly slow. Thus on a Spanish computer with pictures of the continents instead of letters on the keyboard I applied for the paper. Took a bit but after $160 plus a $40 service fee they emailed the reciprocity fee paper in PDF format. Just print it. Yeah, right. First the computer I was on could not connect to printer, so hotel called in someone who could use hotel printer. Tried emailing the PDF to his computer from my phone, but wifi too slow. Could not get my mail on his computer. Finally put PDF in iBook format and plugged phone into his computer which printed the one page.

Meanwhile I keep calling it a visa and Max is insistent it is not a visa but a reciprocity fee. Finally when printed it said visa fee paid, and I was able to gloat. I was in no mood for semantics. I was stewing about this and realized politics is the art of getting someone else to pay for others not being able to get along.

Meanwhile everyone was ready to go. My bike was two blocks away yet and went to recover it. Michelle had gone and was bringing it to me knowing my frustration. Unfortunately the odometer was missing. A very nice thing to have as use for following the written directions. Go to roundabout at 63.6 kilometers and turn left, go .7 kilometer and turn right and so on. I still have GPS with route but always nice to have a backup system.

Pumped up the tires as on pavement today, get Walter to get water out as he had already put it away, throw what I had into pack realizing rain coat was in day bag packed away so hope for no rain.

Off everyone went and once on the bike it was pleasant. Road a delightful canyon going along a river gradually descending to 2700 meters above sea level, having to stop once in a while for pictures.

Then the climb back to 3400 meters and back on the altoplano. The climb was not too bad but it was hot, too hot for me. Everyone excited about getting to the heat but the mid 20’s are great for me. Does not get hotter than that in Anchorage and then too hot. Most on this trip believe the 30’s and into 40’s are great. As noted most have been on the tour of Africa where temperatures in the low 50’s were common. I had finished my 3 liters of water half way up hill, but survived to lunch truck at top of hill.

And a real pick me up when Hannie came up and said her bike was working perfectly for the first time in a month. The front derailleur had refused to get in the small chain ring. Lucho our mechanic had looked at it several times replacing cables and adjusting this and that. Yesterday I had offered to just take a look. Apparently I had fixed it, and it made my day. Something was going right. I felt like I could do something right.

Then a fairly pleasant 50 kilometer ride to the border. I was thinking that by the end of the day I am exhausted and wondering what the heck I am doing here. These folks are way above my league, as I ride along in near last place alone. Today only Dave from England is behind me. Then I remember this happens every afternoon, but when I awake in the morning I am excited to go.

Made the border town in Bolivia and had been told to change money before crossing. Apparently two systems of money exchange in Argentina. The official rate is 8.5 pesos the U.S. Dollar, but there is a “green” market which is 12-14pesos to the dollar. It is not a black market as somewhat sanctioned. I got 13.2 pesos to the dollar. Of course the U.S. Dollars must be fresh and crisp. One $50 bill I had was refused because of a 1/8″ tear. At home would not even think of it.

Border crossing relatively easy stand in this queue to check Bolivian papers, then stand in Argentina queue for checking the reciprocity paper and check passport and stamp it. Then back to bike and cross with a picture of Ushuia 5210 kilometers sign. We are not going direct there, but that is final destination two months from now. Turned around and took picture of border, but guard yelled at me saying no photos.

On to the hotel and the usual question of what will this one be like. So far ok water almost hot and a bidet. But then the question of where to eat. Had not seen any likely places coming in. Hotel restaurant looked ok but did not open until 8 pm, normally in bed by then. Told Buck my concerns about feeling end of day. He called me on it and informed me I was fully capable. Sometimes I wonder.

Hannie and Marias and I went out to search for a restaurant about 6 but only found 2, neither looked promising, but our only choices. Worked out ok. I ordered something I had no idea what, but did include beef. Turned out a thin piece of beef covering plate covered with melted cheese, which was covered with a piece of ham with a fried egg on top. This was not Bolivia which was either pasta or a pizza. And of course the usual side of French fried potatoes. Also nice to be with Europeans who eat their fries with mayonnaise. Somehow I picked up that habit when an exchange to Germany in 1967.

But came out of restaurant about 8:30 and the activity level had definitely picked up. Argentina operates late. Buck arrived in truck about 2 and went to barber but closed until 6pm. The barber was a busy place a 9 pm. There were over a dozen restaurants to choose from. Whereas all had been closed in the afternoon and shut down, at 9 pm the streets were hopping with activity.

And this is last hotel for 2 weeks. Bush camps and camping. The difference is bush camps have no facilities

“I have seen some memorable things in my life, and today’s ride ranks up there!”
Terry Wall from Australia

Well we did it, and Terry summed it up best. Absolutely amazing. We left camp and rode a hundred meters down a ramp onto the salt, two flamingoes feeding beside the road. The salt is that,salt, and flat polygons just as seen in the arctic, only about a meter across almost all five sided, with the ridge between polygons a centimeter or two high. You can ride anywhere or direction, but there is a road leading to the island where we were headed.

After 40 kilometer we reached the lunch truck and drank and ate a bit. For 10-15 bolivianos you could walk about the saguaro covered island. I opted to lookand not walk.

After lunch we changed direction from south to east for 62 kilometers. It was like sailing on the ocean, the horizon went on and on, just an occasional snow covered peak at the edges. The salt flats is 25 times the size of Bonneville salt flats in Utah.

And I may change my perception that south is downhill. Easy to prove, put a marble on a globe and it will go south. When headed due south we were cruising at 22 kph and when going due east we were cruising at 28. Maybe east is downhill. Perhaps I did not account for rotation of the earth. Or another theory might be there were several tour buses going to the island and the “road” was more hard packed, or maybe the tailwind. Whatever we just cruised everyone stopping to take pictures frequently.

With about 10-15 k to go Terry and Elizabeth caught up with me and we finished the final bit at 30 kph. 103 kilometer day in 6 hours including lunch and photo stops. 4 hr 20 of riding. And very glad I had completely covered myself head to toe with clothing. The sun was intense on that white surface. Like being on a glacier.

Finally a building of sorts appeared on horizon and our accomadations for the night. The hotel is basic roof (fiberglass or thatch), walls (entirely of blocks of salt), door of wood, and a salt floor.. In Bucks and my room the floor is salt bricks outside it is more like beach sand. And that is our motel, there is a flourescent light but it does not work ( may require a generator), and no water (bike dreams truck has a 750 gallon tank but we are on fourth day). And no bathroom, well I have been told there is one but best to avoid if possible. Hence I a in a quandary whether to put on the SPOT locator for Jeanne a motel or camp. If one does not like it land is 7 kilometer away.

A delightful evening dinner with Marias, Hanne, Joost, Buck, and Michelle, and myself. Lots of time for discussion as were told dinner would be at 7. Finally finished about 9:15. Bolivian time. But turning in to a wine drinker and enjoyed that last eve. Chilean wine for 100BOB ( about $15) . We discussed our favorite food or meal (waiting for dinner) (generally included good cheeses, and Alaska salmon) and favorite movies (Enemy at the Gates, Cold Mountain, Out of Africa, Amalie, and Soldier of Orange). And Marias and Hanne knew the three French people cycling from Anchorage to Ushuaia. They had cycled with them for a few days two years ago when Marias and Hanne were cycling Anchorage to San Francisco. Then off to our dark room and to face the bathroom. As to motel or camp. Definitely a motel as camp is way more comfortable although this salt block bed is not bad.

And posting this rapidly as had written a long blog covering past week instead of hitting publish I hit discard. Now trying to recover.

Stage 47 122 kilometers 1 October
Departed Oruro and headed south off the main road. Within a couple of kilometers a lake was at our side with hundreds of flamingos feeding. Many more than are in our yard at home, and these were moving about, not standing still as in our yard. I realized I had made a bad decision to not carry the big camera today. I thought we would just be riding along the flat plains. It proved every changing scenery, especially as the clouds created different lighting.

About 10 kilometer down the straight road a fellow walking a bicycle with a branch for a broom was sweeping the side of the road of loose rocks. The scenery was ever changing. Lunch was to be at about 60 k but no truck due to construction. At 70 k there was a village beside the road, which had been very rough with construction for the past 15 kilometer. Wilbert and Rob purchased several cases of soda and some cookies which was about all the town had to offer. Finally the trucks made it and Ellen prepared some sandwiches for desert and we refilled water bottles. Back on to pavement and a delightful trip for the next 52 kilometer. Generally following the 3800 meter contour line on the map. Directions had been a 111 kilometer day but no truck again. Finally over a rise and a town with the bike dreams flag out was seen. They had set up in the apparent meeting hall for cooking and such. We set our tent in amongst the nearby walls, and I went for soup. Delicious! As folks set up their tents there were three ladies watching people set up our tents laughing and having a gay old time watching these gringos.

Shortly after soup it began to rain and I rushed back to the tent as I had left the flap open. Dived in just as it started in earnest. Spent the next couple of hours just futzing about the tent. Finally worked up the energy to emerge after it seemed the rain, lightening, and thunder were finished. I discovered a saguaro like cactus 50 meters just above us, but as I was going to explore, the dinner siren went off. Priorities!

Another delightful dinner under the dim light of the 3 remaining light bulbs. After dinner we discovered we were a big deal in town and had been invited to some shenanigans in the square at 8 pm. It was only 6:30 and normally all, of us would be in bed by 7:30. It was going to be a late night. To keep awake I walked the 3 blocks into the town square finding it quite deserted and the town quiet except for a few kids wandering. I returned to find I had skipped my first duty night of helping in kitchen. I thought I was on last night, and had volunteered Monday instead as hotel last night. Alas!

The shenanigans were a visit to the local church. Sorry but it strikes me as funny that this poor town has a large church with the usual catholic gaudiness. Seems 1/2 the money in town is wrapped up in the church. Well that is their belief and not for me to judge. It was rather impressive as many catholic churches are. And on our arrival into town the locals had been having a blessing in front of the church for a successful crop which will be planted shortly. Quinoa and potatoes. The quinoa requires close attention until it is about 20 centimeters tall.

Tomorrow promises interesting. Minimal pavement following primarily a dirt track along some electrical lines. Have been warned the gps track may be a little off and paper instructions probably better. Sandy and several folks changed to wider tires. We shall see. Excited to get off road.

Stage 48. 110 kilometer off road 80
Whew made it to the meteor crater which I never realized was a meteor crater. I had gone out to relieve myself at dinner and there it was. A very large hole in the ground, probably a kilometer or more across. But getting here was exhausting and the day is not over. Exhausted, it is 7:30 I am in a damp tent, wind has calmed to about 15-20 from maybe 60-70 and I am chilled. So back to the chronology. I only mention that in case the writing gets weirder than usual.

Up at 5:30 hoping to get a few early pictures of the cactus. Found others up making their nightsoil. Trying not to disturb them. I had already done my bodily requirements and proceeded with my pictures of sunrise and cactus.

Off we left for a nice 10 k ride then we split up. Options today were for pavement and some pavement under construction supposedly 100 k. Other option was through the country off-road, but with past rains unsure of ability to cross the desert like country. Trucks would not go off road, as sand and potential mud to get stuck in. This option also was 100k and truck would provide lunch at 60 k where there was a junction.

One thing about this trip, it is done every 2 years starting in 2008, thus this is fourth time. It is always a challenge as roads change, dirt roads (our preference) get paved. Wilbert and Rob try to keep up but this was one of those days as a work in progress. They warned us either route was probably not described well on paper directions handed out in evening briefing or the GPX files for GPS were probably flawed too.

The time for the choice arrived and I chose off road. We were immediately in sand and I let air out of tires. But 100 meters later a sort of road was found and I had to pump a bit back in. Then a wondrous ride winding through the sand dunes. Llamas appeared everywhere, then 2 groups of about 20 Vicunas, which are the wild version of Llamas. Llamas and alpacas are domesticated and herded. We came to a river and numerous Llamas were in the water, and there were new babies. Wilbert described it as riding through national geographic.

About noon came to a village and we were mobbed by about 100 kids aged about 7-9 years old. I am not sure they had ever seen gringos, especially ones on bikes. We stayed about 30-45 minutes, bought out the only store of all the coca cola and candy cakes they had which was all they had.. That was our lunch. Let one kid ride my bike and he thoroughly enjoyed it going back and forth and back and forth the entire time. Alfred did the same and we were afraid we would never get to leave. Other kids just stared, others looked. Quite an experience. Some elders came out and dozens more pictures were taken.

Finally left with 60-70 k left to go. The road was sort of a farm road lots of washboard, an occasional sand trap. And acres of plowed fields apparently getting ready for quinoa planting.

At kilometer 85 met up with the paved road and those riders who had chosen that way happened by minutes later. They were at 125 kilometers for them. We had 25 left to go. I lost my oomph after 85 of off road, but chugged along. Our off-road group had traveled as a group in the desolation of the off road, but on the pavement it was ok to separate and I dropped back exhausted.

Made the 25 kilometer stopping about 5 k before the theoretical end as looked nasty ahead with lightening and rain ahead. I did not want to get chilled on arrival so out on rain coat and warmers. Arrived at camp just as the storm started to hit. Immediately grabbed the tent and found a place next to rock wall. No time to stand around or rest after the ride as the wind was blowing about 60 now. And threatening hard rain immanently. Managed to get the tent up without too much rain inside. Went back to trucks which group had found a building available for cooking and eating inside. Waited as I was not ready to carry my duffle to tent yet. Buck came in soaked.. His tent near collapse as he had set up before the wind and now it was crossways and flattened. We went to get it straightened but ended up completely moving it down near mine. With great difficulty managed the tent pegs and his set up, again making a run for the cook shelter. Now exhausted breathing hard and getting chilled, both of us were still in bike gear. Had hot soup which helped and finally took my duffle throwing it in tent which is already small. This was a rather serious situation. Managed to change out of bike clothes and went to dinner. A nice dinner of goulash with pudding desert.

Now in sleeping bag, trying to get warm. Weather had somewhat improved but I hear the rain. Discussion about the weather. Past years Bolivia had about a total of 5 minutes of rain on bike dreams traveling through. This time nearly every day. Someone mentioned maybe the wet season is starting early. Apparently one local said this year it is about 5 weeks early, as in now. Others said it is a El Niño year and we know how that changes things. Whatever it is, it is weird.

But tomorrow we top a rise and see the salar de Uyani. Exciting. But 76 kilometer to go and if raining will be really miserable. Tomorrow is a different day.

3 October 2014 meteor crator to Tahua at the edge of the Salar de Uyuni. Stage 49. 73 kilometer

Rained most of night and of course wet when getting up, but right after breakfast began to clear a bit. Still tent and stuff packed away wet. Good day of biking all off pavement. As Barry said it was hard as you worked for every meter, even the downhill. Heavy washboard, then rocky, much like the rougher sections of white rim trail in Utah. F in a car could do without a 4 wheel drive but certainly would help although in the end only 500 meters of climbing ending up at 3625 meters right on the edge of salt flats.

And climbing the last hill it certainly was a spectacular sight to look out on the salt flats. Goes way over the horizon with a few islands in it, white and flat. It is 25 times the size of the Bonneville salt flats in Utah. The level is within one meter overall, and apparently is used but for the space shuttle or space station to calibrate radar elevations. Apparently just a meter below the surface is 50-70% of the worlds lithium. The developed world would love to get at it, but Bolivia is trying to develop in a way the locals get some compensation, and not destroy the lucrative tourist industry which comes to see the salt flats. Tomorrow we ride 102 kilometers across the flats, to the tourist area. Where we are now is definitely not tourist. About as far as you can get from tourist.

Today I was incredibly slow which was fine. Taking pictures and plodding along alone. Very glad I had GPS with track on it as numerous turns going to various small villages (usually populations of less than 100). This area the past 2-3 days is the quinoa capital of the world. As I look out at the plowed fields am totally amazing anything will grow. Dirt and rock. Apparently this is where it thrives and quinoa only grows at high altitude. Again the farmers are getting little of the benefit.

Finally pulled into the town square where everyone was gathered from bike dreams. The usual place they camp was now a field prepped for planting, so Wilbert and Rob were finding a new place. As noted prior this is not a tourist area and they have no infrastructure to support tourists. I think we bought out the store of supplies. And that is only for our extra use. Bike dreams gets its water and food supplies back in the cities. But they found a very nice camp, right on the edge of salt flats, green grass sort of although very short. The usual llamas feeding nearby. And I am exhausted, got tent up and drying and have been in it all afternoon. Have been cycling for two weeks now and tired.

I remember on the great divide it was day 21 Joe and I began to question our motivation, ability and desire to finish. It became one day at a time and a good lesson learned. Today I was thinking how when you get on the bicycle you are alone and you must ride the bike. No one else can do it for you. As Joe advised me before the start of this trip “ride your own ride”. And that is all you can do, if you try to do more you will burn out, do less and you won’t accomplish what you want or can do.

Oh good, apparently I slept through dinner. Michelle noted I was not there, as they had set up in a building in town. Now I do not have to get out of this tent as it is cold outside. She brought me an apple and I had the snacks I had purchased a few days ago, so no problem. 4 hour nap and now 12 hours of sleep. Life is good.

Slept great at hotel but awoke about 3 am with difficulty breathing. Not difficulty but just seemed I could not get a full breath. Realized altitude was affecting me, even after nearly 4 weeks. Talked with others at breakfast and all seemed to have similar experiences. No matter if acclimated there is still a shortage of oxygen here.

So got on bike at 8 am and proceeded to climb 800 meter climb over 13 kilometer. What a way to start the day. But the day proved great. As one said every once in a while the ride of the day is great. Up the hill, the across the big hills at 4185 meters and a descent down the other side of the peninsula through the eucalyptus trees. Beautiful lunch spot over looking town where we caught the 15 minute ferry ride. Vessel was a wooden thing carried a bus and about 20 bicyclists. Push off and land via poling, then a 35 hp motor pushed the we meter long boat. No charge to board but 5 BOB (about $.85) to get off. Then another climb and descent. Road great with smooth pavement and few cars, none aggressive. Beautiful riding, a bit chilly to start but ended warm after 68 kilometer along shores of Lake Titicaca. Inca Utamaro Hotel & Spa. Rooms not ready but bike dreams had soup and birthday cake for Bridgit outside while we waited. Then, less than an hour after eating I could not help it and went swimming. Not coming this far and not swim in Lake Titicaca. Very nice although only went about 50 meters, temperature not bad low 20’s maybe, although every one else said way to cold. I thought great, but immediately after did take a hot shower to clean off.

Several folks rather sick and took truck today. Explosive diarrhea. Ugh. Hoping I can avoid, but eventually probably will be hit.

And after a week feel like I am am beginning to integrate. Folks learn me and I learn them. 35 people who have been through hard times is a hard group to join, but it is happening. Feels good. Each of them said even at the beginning they had a week or two to coalesce as a group. Some very fascinating people.

A and new tidbit about the Incas. Apparently at the what is here the winter Soltice In mid June, they would look to the stars in search of a 15 star cluster known now as the Pleiades. If it was clear the following planting season was to be good. If the cluster was not really clear they held back planting a bit, recently an American scientist looked at this and the events correlated with El Niño years. In other words they could predict El Niño 500 years ago and change crops accordingly.

Beautiful hotel here at side of southern end of lake, the Cordillera Real is visible with its big snow covered peaks, which six are over 6000 meters in height. Once again I am discovering the Andes are big. A fisherman was out on his reed boat this evening. A nice afternoon. And not the least bit frustrating as I did not even try to find wifi and internet. Hence no crashes and timeouts and such. Technology, maybe best to enjoy the moment,,

Writing this as a continuum as seems appropriate, but more important as internet wifi allows. Everywhere advertises wifi restaurants hotels etc but when more than two people log on system crashes and none. Yesterday I just wrote the blog and did not even try to post. Felt good to not be frustrated.

But today the 26 of September stage 44 to LaPaz. Diarrhea twice last night and seriously considering going in truck but felt ok this morn although hotel did have eggs for breakfast which I could not resist. Resisted other usual, fruit salad, jam, etc. figured 84 kilometer day and only 225 vertical. One of the easiest days one would figure. Wrong. Started out ok although I was not pushing only doing about 20 k/h back of pack. For 20 k we rounded the last southern bit of lake Titicaca and waved goodby to this huge lake. Then just gradual uphill climbing from 3825 to eventually 4100 on outskirts of LaPaz.

I was slow and ended up by myself. The daily map made no sense to me and gps would say turn right then would say off course. Basically ended up lost, even going through a pedestrian market which was quite chaotic with the bike. On a street which GPS said was arrival destination, but no bike dreams. Finally Carmen and Julie came out of a hotel after checking in there, one we are at did not meet there standards I guess.

Was the hardest ride of the trip yet for me. Numbers wise it should have been easiest. Again on the fourth floor huff puff huff puff up the stairs. Why am I always on the fourth floor. Last nite there was an elevator supposedly highest in the world, also the slowest and creakiest. Arrived at hotel I was going to take a shower but only Luke warm so just went to bed. So the diesel fumes remain.

The day was full of diesel fumes, traffic, potholes and was as advertised. On the morning briefing we were told to be careful coming into LaPaz as it has a steep descent into the city center where we are. Informed of potholes curbs, cars manholes without covers and they were all there. Plus trying to navigate.

LaPaz is a metropolitan city of 2 1/2 million mostly which nestled into this steep valley. From above it looked pretty, but once in its clutches another crowded city.

Just went out and found a vendor for crackers and some yogurt. See if that will stay in my system, rather than just pass right through.

And again as soon as we showed up the wifi internet system crashed. On way for crackers found a Internet cafe and will try and post this. Unsure about pictures, that may be too much.

Arrived LaPaz to 2 days of scheduled rest. Rest has not happened yet. We arrived Friday afternoon, now Sunday morn and continue to pile on the activities. Hence have been unable to post my impressions. Have been down with continuing diarrhea and have not been eating in restaurants where I can get a wifi connection. Whenever 40 of us hit the hotel internet it crashes and is getting extremely frustrating.

But LaPaz is in a mountainous area, the city nestled very tightly into a steep valley. The roads are steep and have not seen a flat one yet. Outside of town up one of the valleys is a road leading to the northern sections of Bolivia. Up until 2006 when a new road was finally built it was acknowledged to be the most dangerous road in the world. Google “death road” or “most dangerous highway in the world” and this road comes up. It is built into a cliff and at places is only 3 meters wide and is a 2 way road. Rules of the road changed so one drives on the left instead of the right, as in England, Australia, and several,other countries. Only on this road is it done so that drivers have a better feel of where their tires are. Sometimes in passing tires will overhang. Up to 330 people a year died on this road, and it is still open and used for traffic because the new road is over three times longer. It is so steep and has big drops there are sections that have been used for BASE jumpers. (Parachutist who jump in this case from land)

I find that most places would find such a thing appalling. Bolivia has turned it into a tourist attraction and is now a destination mountain bike road. We hired one of the local mountain bike companies to provide guides (generally one per five riders, but being experienced we got 2 for 20), full suspension bikes, and two busses to take us on the 67 kilometer death road. Departing our hotel at 8 am we worked our way through LaPaz and up to the hills above, finally achieving an altitude of 4725 meters (15,500 feet) where high alpine conditioned prevailed. It was snowing but turned to sleet and rain with foggy condition limiting visibility to barely a hundred meters. The company provided rain gear but acknowledged it had been used so many times it leaked. We became rather wet and cold stopping at a roadside vendor and getting hot coffee and snacks while paying our road tax for the death road.

So with a blessing of the bikes for our safety with an offering to Pachamama ( an Inca god). We poured rubbing alcohol on our tires, on the ground and a sip for us. Whew I have massive amounts of hair on my chest now.

I have ridden harder mountain bike rides but never one with the exposure of this one. At first we questioned our sanity, but as we descended through the rain and waterfalls biking was fun. A 67 kilometer high speed descent. Wow. Our guides were great stopping us every few kilometers to relay a bit of history. The worst was a bus passing went down with 130 people. Now it is inattentive mountain bikers who die, as I remember about 9 a year although I could be off on that. Looking around is not an option except when stopped. It is a steep, rutted, gravel road with water running down it.

We dropped down at one point measuring 60 kilometers an hour. The vegetation turned to rain forest and reaching the bottom having stopped and shed many layers we were in jungle with banana trees, papaya, parrots, and monkeys. Elevation 1100 meters (3600 feet) a 3600 meter descent (12,000 feet). With minimal pedaling.

A few beers to celebrate and a hot shower. Why hot showers down there and not up here in LaPaz I do not know but it was nice. Then the 3 1/2 hour bus ride feeling the decreasing oxygen as we returned to the hustle and craziness of LaPaz. A great day.

Now lying in bed in hotel my roommate Buck just said this is like a climbing trip. Each of us waiting for the other to get up and start the stove.
OK just waiting for breakfast at 7:30

Arrived late evening (well for us) at 5:30, an hour later time change in Bolivia. Hotel at first seemed awesome large entry, staircases going to various places. Beautiful woodwork and artwork. Stairs to our third floor with a railing ready to breakaway. Room with Buck has large 2 double beds, beautiful wood floors and a view out onto beach. Bay filled with boats. Ok that is the good side.

Shower was luke warm, the room cold, and internet crashed shortly after arrival. Can’t have everything. But bike dreams had hot soup for us downstairs in the restaurant.

After cleaning up, unloading trucks, and usual chores, Buck and I went wandering. I had changed money at the money changers at border so we were ready. Took a bit but found the tourist street with restaurants and reported back to hotel. Numerous restaurants to choose from, pizza being the primary desire, and good wifi. Chose a Mexican one which seemed to meet the criteria. As soon as password was passed around for wifi it crashed. I ordered chicken enchilada with guacamole and a beer, others there pizza and some wine from Chili.

Took almost an hour for food to come but reasonable taste although my enchiladas were vegetables mostly onions. No guacamole. And no pie or ice cream for desert. Ended up getting ice cream sandwiches from vendor down the street.

Copacabana seems a tourist town and numerous backpackers. Streets not as busy as other towns, maybe because it is off the main routes a bit. One street in particular is main tourist central where we went to breakfast of a good omelette looking primarily for wifi which they said they had, but even though 4 bars it was the circle of death and nothing not even a simple text.

After a walk 50 meters down street where Internet cafe for 18 Bolivianos (about $2.00) let me sit and upload pix and talk to Jeanne via face time and have a wonderful time communicating with friends and family. Most of us agree internet more important than hot water.

A walk down the beach and getting warm. Just watching people laying out, washing cars. One taxi was about 40 meters from water and he had plastic bags he would fill, carry to his car, and wash till water evaporated. Women with their long black hair to waist in two braids tied together with hat, colorful skirts, sweater and apron, often carrying the colorful blanket tied over shoulder for a load of anything, baby, water, food, reeds, sticks, whatever.

Just a nice day lounging about. Lunch, beer, desert, pondering Bolivian existence. A tourist town and a rest day for us.

Tomorrow we head for LaPaz a two day journey with hotel enroute. La Paz will be busy two rest days there but much planned. Bike ride on death road and a football game Friday. Have never been to a real football game (soccer), should be interesting. Not sure about pictures due to internet.

The legs on the bike go round and round making
The wheels on the bike go round and round

Depart Puno with a police escort. Originally James and I took off but called back as we were following our written directions, and police had a better route. I felt like a King or maybe Sarah Palin; traffic stopped and we flew on through.

Shortly we were on road south along Lake Titicaca and a peloton formed after a few kilometers, then as road narrowed we went into a nice pace line cruising along at about 27-28 kilometers an our. Toos was out front.

For those not bicyclists a pace line is a line 2 to 3 or more riders following one after the other. The first rider breaks the air and creates a draft for the following rider to follow. When I was a teenager my friend Brent Cook and I would play with techniques and found when really going you could detect the draft effect almost a hundred yards back. For full effect generally one rides with wheels inches apart. It is great and it can increase your speed significantly. The problem is you are inches apart and riders must be aware of each other. The line becomes its own organism.

A peloton is similar except instead of a line, riders not only ride front and back but side to side. This works well with not only headwinds but crosswinds as it protects riders downwind..

Thus was the theme for Puno to Copacobana. The first 20 k was long pace line of maybe 20 riders. Too much traffic, but was nice just cruising alongside the lake. After a bit I figured Theo needed a break and I felt good so I broke from my 3rd or 4th position and went up front, but quickly found myself leaving the pack behind. I had rested up and felt good. Theosophy wife Toos came up and said best to stick to around 27 k. I dropped back although difficult for me to maintain constant speed. Then a little hill came up and those that could did and I felt like my lungs were going to explode. A hill climber I am not. The pack separated into varying pace lines.

A word on the altitude. Even though most have been at altitude for 7-8 weeks it still affects them. There just is not enough air. One person said “I feel good and think I am ok then bend over to tie my shoes and am out of breath”. For myself I feel good but do feel exhausted from little tasks. Like walking up a flight of stairs. Lake Titicaca is at 3810 meters (12,500 feet) above sea level. 40% of the earths atmosphere is below us. The locals have developed over time greater lung capacity and blood counts so they can live here over a lifetime.

At about 25 kilometers I decided some pictures would be great, as carrying my big Nikon today. So again I broke away and sprinted ahead till about 500 meters ahead. I felt like a biathlon, where you exercise greatly then do a task requiring total stillness. I did not catch up the 500 meters I fell behind for 11 kilometers when they stopped for construction. But it was great fun. Made lunch stop about 70 k and 11 am. Flying!

Lunch was about 1/2 hour and time to move on. Buck said he was dropping as first day he had ridden in two days due to illness and wanted to not push too hard, I said I was going to try and keep up with the line again as it was fun. Buck said to ride at my pace and not do more than I can. I thought of Joe, who did the divide and said ride my own ride. A peloton of 6-10 people was formed and great but after my lead I could not maintain and dropped out. I was pooped an decided to just enjoy the day. Stopped and took pictures, enjoying he scenery. Locals out preparing fields for planting sheep llamas feeding at side of road. The traffic had diminished greatly.

It was a great day although I was totally exhausted at the end. 145 Kilometers, cross winds, head winds, severe sun, some hills totaling 745 meters of climbing (2400 feet) and crossing the border into Bolivia all played a part in tiring everyone out.

Peru is done and a rest day in Copacabana, Bolivia.

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