Well some very delightful days in the cities of Rotterdam and Amsterdam. Took a bit to find our hotel as disguised as a bar and hidden away upstairs was the reception desk. Hotel Clino a great place and only €60 a night in the center of town. Bike parking difficult but our room was very large so we just parked the bikes in room (carrying them up the narrow spiral staircase) we were not going to use them anyway, as seems everything within walking distance.
And most interesting as auto traffic is minimal. Rotterdam has a population of about 700000 in the same urban area as Anchorage, (about 80 square miles), and traffic is much less, although parking would be an issue. Even in the rain people take bikes, and they do not change clothes just work clothes on the bike( suits, skirts, heels, etc.)
We have friends who used to live in Anchorage and have purchased a canal boat here in the Netherlands and next summer intend to cruise the canals of Europe). Lyn and Eric took the train from Roermond near the Holland German border and spent two days with us, which was great
Rotterdam central train stationcentral Rotterdam
Seems on our bicycle ride we never had bad rainy weather except one very short time but when we reached the cities bad weather came in. We went up the Euromaast tower but could only go to 80 meters due to the wind, whereas the full tower observation point is 185 meters. It was too windy. On a good day one can rappel from the top. But we had a great time just walking the city, going in for coffee and beers, food, and visiting with Lyn and Eric.
Lyn and Eric stayed the night and then the four of us hopped on the train for the 40 minute ride to Amsterdam. (80 kilometers). Quite a difference in cities. Rotterdam was pretty much destroyed in World War II hence a lot of new modern architecture and sky scrapers. Amsterdam is a city of canals with the central part built in about 1650. The buildings are 3-4 stories and next to one another, and as I understand it courtyards in the middle of the block of buildings. The buildings were usually built leaning slightly outward to make them look larger and also to allow the hoists built into the roof to lift furniture into the building without hitting the building. (The furniture is taken through the windows). But the 450 years since the original have allowed for a bit of settling also on the water and sand Amsterdam is built on.
The canals which is what the city was designed about circle the central area with usually a one way road on each side sometimes with a tram too and of course the bicycles. Amsterdam is the city of bikes. We took a canal tour which was great and the captain noted that the canals are 3 meters deep – 1 meter of water, 1 meter of mud, and 1 meter of bicycles. There are usually no railing about the canals, except on the bridges.
Herengracht
And I have noticed often at train stations there will be two stories of bicycle parking.
double layer bike parking railway station and need more parking
Tried to attend the Anne Frank museum but was not going to stand in the hour plus long line so contented ourselves with a picture
Anne Frank 1929-1945
Then on to the red light district. Prostitution is legal here, controlled , taxed, the workers have a union and the red light area is also a tourist area, with “no pictures allowed” signs in front of the windows of shall we say the ladies on display. Once in a while someone would go to the window door the lady would open it and the red curtain closed behind them.
But many stores and store fronts. Would have liked the prostitution museum but again time constraints. Kind of interesting such a common thing as sex has become a tourist attraction.
Road sculpture
And little stores all over grocery stores, souvenir shops, sex shops for specific variations, and pot shops.
Interesting business.
Lyn and Eric departed on train back to Roermond and Jeanne and I to Rotterdam. I am still amazed at the trains. Even though supposedly slow still fast by U.S. Standards.
one cannot even feel the cornering
Joost from the Andes trip came in for dinner from his village and we had a superb evening of stories and sharing. A very good Vietnamese meal. I will miss the ice cream for desert and the expresso to finish off the meal. A true delight.
One should measure oneself not by ones dreams but the fulfillment of those dreams.
Bike dreams
Well we departed Xanten Germany with its 4000 years of history and found ourselves back riding the dikes along the river, occasional dropping down into a village or just riding along side, every once in a while climbing back to the top. Once I thought I would rush up and rest, while waiting for Jeanne to catch up, but alas as I hit the summit 4 or 5 meters above where we had been and looked back to begin my rest; alas there was Jeanne right behind, just cruising along without a care. So much for rest.
Then we noted a beer garden ahead and beside it along side the road coming up to the dike was a German flag and on the other side of the road a Netherlands flag. The border. Barely a line and being European Union no control between countries, but a very distinct difference. From the beer garden we heard German being spoken and at a bench on the Dutch side three people were speaking Dutch, which we had not as yet heard. Only a political line but things change, hard for me to describe. I never have figured out how come there is such a distinction just with an arbitrary line.
The dikes were shall I say neater, (maybe) and the bikes changed. German bikes were cruisers and would easily be recognized in the United States as general bikes. The bikes in Holland for the most part were more utilitarian, no fancy lightweight things but bikes built for everyday use to and from somewhere for something, often with baskets or boxes, almost always with kickstands, and full chain guards. (Bottom and top chain protector) one sits upright. And still a large number of e bikes with little old fat ladies roaring past us.
Then there were the road bikes. We saw very few in Germany but now there were pelatons of 20 or so riders racing along in a whir. Side by side and 10-15 deep. But the track is a two lane track and they did not slow much for oncoming traffic which scared Jeanne a bit. I usually kept riding to the right but Jeanne usually stopped and pulled off. They were generally flying along at speed.
passing the pelaton
But in general it was a delightful afternoon. Had reservations in the city of Nijmegan through booking.com and the GPS took us winding through some narrow streets. On arrival from the countryside we joined numerous bike riders just going wherever in the city, along the bike path beside the road next to the sidewalk. We are learning to watch the signal lights. There are car signals, pedestrian signals, and bike signals, of which going the same direction can all be different. More than once we wait
then a signal for bikes to go, it turns green but the pedestrian signal does not. And when you hit the button often it does not just wait for the car signals to clear but gives a specific right of way to bike or pedestrian. But
we rode into town with a continuous line of bikers going here and there. But the GPS took us to the Prikkels sign which was our hotel except this was an ice cream shop. I went in inquiring about the hotel and it was the right place, just no hotel sign, only ice cream, so I bought an ice cream cone. Now this is a hotel.
Hotel Pikkels
A delightful place only open as a hotel for two months and the steepest staircases yet to the second floor. No wasted space on staircases here. no wasted space on staircaselots of spaceroom with a view
And another delightful evening wandering about and another superb meal. Is there bad food anywhere along this trip? We have not found it
But booking rooms is becoming a necessity as we realize We cannot just wander about looking for a guesthouse, hotel or whatever as often we do not know what to look for. And now getting closer to the end, hotels, seem difficult to find, so we agree to nearly 90 k tomorrow and get to Rotterdam in another 70 k. Will be some of our biggest days.
So we ride skipping the GPS directions and sticking to the dikes along the river and a ferry ride across to the north side and the city of Gorinchem and our first motel similar to ones along the freeway at home. And no restaurants nearby except Macdonalds so we eat at the motel restaurant and it was bad. Deep fried breaded stuff. Went to Macdonalds for desert and coffee. It was nice riding today but not our best day together, but only 80 k as overrode the GPS. For whatever reason it does not like dikes even though it shows them and definitely does not like ferries.
Then our last day riding through the city which is no problem as seems there is always a bike path. The GPS often guides us through countryside in the midst of the city. Delightful. Over the bridge and the Rhein river is big here, especially when compared to 26 days ago between Andermatt and Disentis Switzerland.
Rhein river near the mouth at Gorinchem
I had concluded when putting in waypoints and for the map it was going to be a navigational day, and it was. I can’t count the number of times I told Jeanne we are lost again. 4 ways of navigating, GPS, the map, directional bike signs for the route, and just heading downriver. If 3 out of 4 agree that is good, but often total disagreement. GPS wants the shortest without ferries, and today it shows a total of 150 kilometers getting near Rotterdam and going back to the last bridge at Gorinchem to cross to the north side, signs in Holland have become sporadic and one does not necessarily know if they point the route to the east or west. And the map shows no detail but does show what may be a more scenic route which is where I get my GPS waypoints from.
And it was delightful, through little villages and out into the countryside of farm fields. On and on but getting lost and going backwards, generally having a great time just riding our bicycles.
rhein river delta riding
We had seen on the map an area which said national park. Now what could be here to make a national park? Well it turns out quite a lot. We are in the delta area of which people told us the Rhein is not really a river at its mouth but a series of canals all over. Well we came to the park headquarters and museum hidden in a mound of dirt. DeBiesbosch National Park.
Museum nationaal Park DeBiesbosch
A movie was shown in English and learned the history of the area from the year 1421 when work began on utilizing the area often flooded with either River floods or high storm tides from the ocean. Over the centuries various things have worked well and harvest in the area were of the bull rush reeds then willows. Complicated system of dikes, channels, canals were developed each changing the landscape and preserving a little bit. Then in 1995 and 1996 there were floods which required more extensive work and large dams and holding areas were developed. But people have realized with climate change the floods from the river will only increase and sea level is rising. For a country below sea level that is not good, so a change in attitude is coming about. They seem to realize you cannot just build the dikes higher and in the future they are going to give the river more room, not less, which means some farm country is going away.
The park I believe translates to beaver national park and they have introduced beavers there to help with habitat, and apparently they are helping, but as noted time will tell. It was a wondrous museum although mostly in Dutch, but pictures, artifacts, and diorama most helpful to our understanding. And the mound of dirt did not look big from the outside but from the inside seemed huge.
Then on taking a total of 4 ferries (which the GPS hated) one a bicycle, pedestrian only ferry across the Rhein. Again we were wandering about the countryside going through the towns of Dordrecht and Papendrecht before approaching Rotterdam which the building are beginning to be seen some 16 kilometers to go. (Did I mention there are no mountains here to block the view and it is flat). A most delightful ride winding our way about various canals.
Then we find ourselves riding between two canals with old windmills all about. The famous windmills.
the famous windmlls built in 1740
We ride for several kilometers the crowds getting thicker as we approach the other end. Turns out this is a tourist area and it is Sunday afternoon and we heard Spanish, Japanese, German, Dutch and English languages. From our end of entry it was free but from the other end there was a charge walk amongst the 20 or thirty windmills. Awesome. They use the windmills to pump water to and from various canals and water systems.
Then another ferry ride and into Rotterdam.
Be careful as pedestrian sidewalks, bike paths, trams, cars and all with separate signals.
What a concept bikes have right of way. Roundabouts with bike lanes. But be careful bikes can move a speed and you must watch when crossing or stepping into a bike lane.
But directed ourselves into town center which seemed to be the railroad station hoping to find a sign which said end of trail. Instead we found some folks from Perth, Australia (who speak excellent English although Australian English) who took our picture at the end of the trail.
departed our friends house in absolutely no hurry. Was a good rest day although did nothing, for the rest day. I suppose that is what a rest day is. Jeanne enjoyed talking with Britta. I realize she, who is the more social one of the two of us, has been unable to converse as I have because I at least have the ability to ask for a hotel room or know a little bit of the language. I will sometimes start a conversation with how are you and progress from there, but it usually ends shortly hereafter when my German language vocabulary is done.
We thought the day would be easy with just riding to the other side of Köln, but it did not work out that way. A delightful ride from the Mannings home in Lohma into and along the promenade of Köln, but by end of day we had gone further than the expected 40 k. We came to a delightful town of Stadt Zons just before Düsseldorf and thought a good place to stay but alas everything with no room or closed up tight. It was a cute little walled village of midevil times. Once we decided to stop we were tired without much energy. 4 pm seemed a reasonable time to quit and look for a room.
Ended up on ferry across river and progressed. Stopped at a 4 star hotel but no double room but he did call and there was one hotel with a room and it was 95€ euro for a double nearby. He only had address though but inquired if we had a navigation system which we do. (GPS). But the street address would not register. We rode on, Jeanne saying maybe we would have more luck in the congested areas rather than along the bike path. On a lark I went up a side street and a hotel/ restaurant sign, was there. I checked and available although it was going through some construction and the stairs were just plywood. The room was nice and the Italian dinner exquisite. The bikes were stored in the wine cellar.
Next day from the southern end of Düsseldorf we rode mostly without a clue of where we were, just head in the general,direction of river flow. Düsseldorf is 11 million people hence bigger than we expected and we meandered along the river enjoying the scenery and after the fact enjoying the navigation problems. Finally reached the city center and on a lark went by the huge tower near city center. On a lark went up it, locking our bikes in bike racks at base, storing bags at ticket counter and took the elevator to the 168 meter observation tower. Delightful. Looked down on the bike path we had ridden with bike foot specific bridges. A superb view of where we had been and where we were going.
bicycle foot bridge viewpointrhein river with footbridgeDüselldorf and Rhein riverDüsseldorf germany
Next a large lunch along the promenade and then we must progress.
Düsseldorf lunch
About 3 pm, I began to tire although had only gone only 43 k. Again we thought no problem with a hotel. Wrong again. At first looked in town just off route and no hotels but found one within a kilometer, but they had no rooms. One clerk looked up on computer rooms available and said only oneswere in the city. I had to ask what city, as our map only covers approximately 2 k either side of river and names seem different than listed on direction of bike routes or on our GPS. He said just follow railroad tracks into town. Hmmm. 7 kilometer, but now we are tired. Is finding a hotel that difficult? I guess so. Seems common for us now to think no problem and then ride 20 k trying to find a place.
the rhein route guide map 4 of 4
But made it to city hotel near the main train station In the middle of town of Kablenz. Not a bad ride but city. Asked the registration clerk about busy rooms and he said his idea of why it was difficult for us was the smaller town have only a few rooms and may be full but many do not want to rent to bicycles, as they are only one night stays. Hotels prefer business travelers who stay 3 and 4 nights.
along the Rhein route
But I was tired and Jeanne commented it appeared so. I admit it then realized this was day 21 of bike riding, and as on the great divide 21 days proved a turning point. Tired, frustrated, and feeling just not into it even though it is wonderful and exciting, I am tired of the language difficulty, tired of the navigation and errors, tired of being on all the time, and not knowing what to expect. And the frustrations get taken out on all sorts of idiotic things. I complain because it is not like home and complain because it is like home and it should be different. Arrrghghh. Just tired.
But made reservation for next night guessing at 65 kilometers on down the river. Tried to stay away from booking dot com as I know they charge 15% and would like hotel to get full amount. Booked on Internet but after I found much cheaper places on booking.com. I tried.
scenery along the waybike lane in red
Then today’s ride just cruising along sometimes along the river and dikes and sometimes inland on
n
small roads and bike paths. Ended up 74 kilometers in the delightful historic town of Xanten with a 4000 year history. Anchorage is a 100 years old this year so a bit different. Hotel in midst of town and again a bit of luxury but part of adventure. Dinner in square again outside where blankets are made available, as it is cooling off in September. Delightful meal, and cost for
a 750 ml of great wine, appetizer, two wondrous full meals, desert, coffee, and great company for only 85€.
And Internet. When you have it you do not think much about it. But not having It in today’s world is difficult. And it is difficult to get just passing through as a visitor Hotels have very iffy wifi. And may not have. Paid 5€ last night and worked very sporadically. Reminded me of 5 years ago at bike school in Colorado Springs with the hotel wifi, which was ok but not great, but ok. The two Koreans asked me if anyone had wifi? I responded the hotel had wifi and it was ok, but they just shook their heads. I then remembered Korea standard is 100 MBytes/ second everywhere. Geez we think 10 MBytes is good. Everyone has their standards of what is acceptable. But thinking of how poor people survivewithout it. XantenXanten wall and windmill
And thus another rambling story is over. I could make it more concise I suppose but then the purpose of trip is bicycling and not writing. We leave Germany today and into our 5th country of this trip (excluding Canada and Greenland on flight here). One week to go before return home. Passed the three week mark and feeling better again. Something about three weeks to get going and get a rhythm. (We were here a week before starting bike ride). Good times!
First a correction, thanks for those who helped with my misunderstandings. Apparently there is not a 8%religious tax but for those who choose 8% of their income tax goes toward their church of choice. Slightly different than I stated.
I am interested in the religious aspects, but have realized Germany is different than the U. S. Imagine that. Not better not worse – different. I myself wonder about the time and money spent on churches and religion, but have come to realize this is a magnificent place because of it. The numerous cathedrals in nearly every town, village and city are truly magnificent
Sort of like in South America when I was complaining to Buck one day about the dogs. Buck corrected me in saying it was the culture and often there is a reason for it, even if you do not understand.
Once again the diversity of ideas makes things wonderful. I do not play hockey but believe having hockey rinks in anchorage makes it a better place. Many people in the U. S. think space explorations is a waste, but I believe it adds to our human experience and enriches all our lives.
Ok rambling and enough.
We met Britta who had taken the morning train from home near Köln to ride with us for a few days. Jeanne and I have been together basically just the two of us for several days and once again we began to unload stories on her. Had to have a coffee at train station in Mainz as too excited to start riding immediately.
Finally began working our way back to the delightful river promenade and back on the trail. Just nice riding although not really beside the river. Near Bingen came across some old bridge works with an explanation of the bridge was destroyed in January of 1945. Somehow that struck me. Guess they were looking to finalize the war and having destroyed nearly everything else of any military value were beginning to destroy things of value to the general population. Ugh.
In Bingen we had no hotel but the first place we came to the proprietor said we appeared to be capable of the 3rd floor and we got a wonderful room with terrace overlooking the river, carnival, and Main Street. (Capable of third floor means able to walk up as rarity to have elevator)
We went for a most delightful meal at a nearby restaurant and headed towards the wine festival, but had to stop at the hotel room for a jacket as evening weather cooling off. Well we made it to our terrace and spent the next 2 hours there just watching, talking, and enjoying life. Never made it to the wine festival.
Then we got to ride our bikes from Bingen to Koblenz. Everyone had told us this was the best part of the ride and it lived up to its reputation. A river went into a valley maybe 200 meters deep (estimate 700 feet) with castles galore. At the end of the day I asked how many we had seen. I thought dozens and dozens, and Britta said she thought she had a picture of each one, as did I. I had pictures of 14 but there were many more I realized hidden away.
We picked one castle in the village of Bacharach to visit. Delightful town and a short hike up to the castles for coffee and cake.
Bacharach main streetcastle squarecastle coffee, cake, and Rhein view
Then a very short discussion of distance to the Manning residence and we decide to go for it, meeting Todd enroute just before Bonn. Another great day of riding although I think how come 85 kilometers is a big day for us? Well we stop for our lunch, stop the bakery, (we have adopted the standard of can’t get bread the day before because then it is old), stop for coffee and Radlers and just stop to whatever and enjoy.
And now it is raining and we have decided on a day off. In 19 days of riding it is our third rest day and first in 14 days. And in those days we have worn rain coats only for a total of maybe 10 minutes.
Now washing clothes, cleaning, organizing and just enjoying a break. Riding the bicycle is fun but back to diversity. Just a bit of change.
“The Rhine combines every quality a river can exhibit. The rapidity of the Rhone, the breadth of the Loire, the rocks of the Meuse, the sinuosity of the Seine, the translucency of the Somme, the historical reminiscences of the Tiber, the regal dignity of the Danube, the mysterious influence of the Nile, the golden sands of the glittering streams of the New World, the phantoms of some Asiatic stream.” Victor Hugo
Strassbourg was impressive. Seemed much to do – museums, exhibits, walking, culture, European Union headquarters, universities, old buildings and incredible architecture- the list goes on and on. What to do what to do. It would take weeks, months, years to explore, and we have one evening.
The folks we met on arrival to Kehl suggested the light show on the cathedral. We chose to wait and see. Arrived at hotel showered and just enjoyed the room awaiting the heat to diminish. Finally about 6 headed for city center, thinking we would catch the tram which stopped just outside the hotel. But we began walking and discovered we were downtown in 2 kilometers amongst the narrow streets and wondrous architecture of the old city. Then we rounded the corner.
The cathedral here had the cornerstone laid in the year 1014 and it was finished in 1469. I guess that was before iPhones and instant gratification. 450 years to build. We sat in the plaza and ate another incredible medal and enjoyed it all. The Catholics certainly no how to do grandeur.
Religion is interesting here as no separation of church and state. Statutes of Jesus are frequent along the roadside and at various places. But folks here declare the church they belong to and 8% of income is taxed for the church. You can opt out but no baptism, religious named, burial is like a pauper grave in the U. S. , no religious wedding ceremony. So I ask! What is the problem? Whatever, that is a separate subject and I believe Richard Dawkins covers it well in the “The God Delusion”. Ok I am biased.
But back to the cathedral. It was impressive and would have like to have seen the light show but no way am I staying up until 10:15. Thus we wandered about managing to get lost, finally turning us to the right street from several obvious choices.
Up somewhat early and off we go back to the two rivers bridge and a delightful day just riding the dike keeping the river in its correct path. And again hot peaking at about 35 (95F)but again with humidity and we were sweating profusely but a bit of breeze along the river, but intense sun and searching out shade was off the route. Stopped at some locks for the river and a beer garden where Radlers were consumed. A small amount of beer and lemonade for energy. Awesome drink for bikers. Then onward thinking it a short day, but alas things change.
coal plantbeer garden along the Rhein routeriding the dike containing the Rhein small boat launch on dike This is an example of reservations and no reservations; everything planned out and itineraries full and mapped out. No surprises. We started looking at 50 kilometers saying no problem, but first town where we looked had one guesthouse but closed. Proprietor said no problem as Au am Rhein had several, thus 5 k farther of pleasant hot riding. But first place is locked up tight. I ask next door at the bakery and the lady says just around the corner a hundred meters is a good one. Alas also locked up but someone opens a shutter to say closed but points us to another one just down the street and around the corner. It was the original one we went to. Three within a hundred meters and all closed. We discovered later not only is it holiday season which we knew, but that means the people who run hotels and such are on holiday too. Imagine that. So off we go the the next village about 5 k down the road. Here we manage to go in circles for a bit trying to find a guesthouse, following signs, asking people and just going to the center of town but finding nothing. Once Jeanne asked if a building was a hotel but it was a building supply store. So on to Karlsruhe 12 k further, and now we are out of water, very hot, very parched, sweaty and I might add getting tired. At a stoplight Jeanne asked a lady if she knew of a place and she pointed down the street to where we had been but fro the other direction. Finally came to a place but locked. The a lady comes running down the street and wants to know if we want a room. Yes, yes, and yes. I say we will,take it before even seeing it or asking the price. She runs down the street to the restaurant and gets the key and we have a room. Our biggest day of cycling 89.6 kilometers and we started looking for a room at 50 k. And a wonderful room, shower, wifi, and down the street to the restaurant, where we began our assault on refreshing our thirsty bodies with beer.
The owner (same lady who came to our rescue for the hotel) was trying to explain the menu in English but she did not speak English, so enlisted the help of a couple sitting a few tables away. Soon they came over explained the menu and suggested the weinerscnitzel salad for a hot day like this. Amazing and perfect. Cool and refreshing. We had a great time with the couple who ended up buying us a round of local after dinner liqueur. They then offered to take us on a tour of their neighborhood, which meant the Catholic Church. He grew up in the neighborhoods and she was from a distant 20 kilometers north. She apologized that her Protestant church was a mediocre building, with no prominent features. The difference between Catholics and their grand offerings and the Protestants with their humble whatever. Anyway it was a delightful evening and would not have happened had we prearranged our lodging or trip. As with the day before and coming into Strassbourg the adventure may be a pain but the rewards can be great.
One note on restaurants in Germany. As noted one does not go there for fast food. Go to macdonalds for that. But Jeanne and I both like water. Seems the only thing here is bottled water, with or without gas. Jeanne asked a few days ago for just plain tap water but could not explain it. I thought the waiter was going to flip out. The water tastes good as we commonly give our bike bottles to beer gardens and they fill from the rap without problem, but at the table a big problem. What has the world become, we encourage drinking water but then make it difficult. I view the current ideal of bottled water as a refute on the badness of tap water. Even at home where the water tastes excellent people drink bottled water. Another dilemma J. R. can’t figure out.
Then there is smoking. Seems many people smoke here in Germany although I am assured it is no more than elsewhere and much less than France, just more visible. Ok I can live with that but a restaurant. Apparently illegal indoors but one eats outside here, and the table next to you is puffing away. Weird. And difficult.
Ok enough ranting. Back to the hotel this morn and again Jeanne asked where a market was for lunch material (bread, cheese, meats). The lady offered to get us some. When we opened the packages it was fully made delicious sandwiches. Life is grand.
And off we went taking 5 k to find the river whereas the couple last night said it was only three, but it began our day of route finding misadventures. Crossed the river as apparently the west side more interesting and less industrial. And we found it so but there was no just follow the dike along the river. Up a dike, wander a forest trail, go through a village where GPS said go one way, signs point another, and our sense of directions was way off. But arrived near Speyer and left the trail in search of a place to stay advertised on the trail. Alas no rooms and others closed until 5 pm for the Monday rest day. (Today is Tuesday). But the proprietor calls and a room is available in next village no more than 2 kilometers away. Easy to find next to the church (always a prominent feature). 3.5 k later we found three churches and I went up to what I thought was the hotel but was the fire hall. Continued looking and found it. Again very nice place.
Being Negative only makes a difficult journey more difficult.
unknown
What can I say, the title seems to say it all. Left Basel (actually Weil am Rhein) and worked our way to the euro 15 bike route. When we booked the hotel we had no idea where in town it was, but turns out it was made to be convenient to all the highway, freeways and intersecting travelers passing there. A 10 story modern hotel with a Mexican themed restaurant and general clientele which is only stopping for the night and passing through. And we were some of those people.
When I turned on the GPS we were 126 meters from the cycle path. (My Garmin 1000 I have loaded with the cycle paths of Europe). And I learned something else about the Garmin. It had me going back saying wrong way as I had put in bicycle touring as preferred track. I changed it to mountain biking and it lets us ride on gravel pathways now. Not exactly what I call mountain biking., but I see the reasoning. But I digress to the technology.
But we immediately saw the route signs and wound our way about a few streets always on the cycle path beside the road. With 2-3 kilometers we were on the edge of the Rhein. Actually the dike defying the northern bank of the river. And basically that is where we have been for two days.
The Rhein River in no way shape or form resembles a free flowing river. From Chur in Switzerland it is contained with very strict dikes, often two on each side. And it seems 95% of he time it is a pathway for walking and biking. The are place along the way where access with a boat can be made or beach areas, and certainly a fair number of sloughs and side channels, which the paths go around. And frequent benches for sitting and resting.
The are dams and weirs often and the required locks to go with that. Fun to watch barges going along. Apparently near Basel there are connecting locks and channels which connect to the Danube which flows to Istanbul, completely connecting Europe.
And as noted earlier the river is clean and clear. People swimming in it. Yesterday stopped at a put in and some fellows were building two rafts for a day on the river. Car tire inner tubes and they were building a wooden platform which held a sunshade. They were ready for a delightful day.
And not only people swimming but hundreds of white swans.
As noted there are numerous slough with weirs. Most with fish ladders for the Atlantic salmon which come here, and I assume is one of the fish we see people fishing for.
yes those are watering cans at each station
Yesterday we did not have reservations but agreed to leave early as breakfast was served at 6 am. We decided to call it quits when it was 1 or 2 o’clock as the highest heat of the day is from 2-5 pm. We arrived at Breisach about noon and went into town. Reminded us of Juneau with boats parked along the river and parked so as the visitors can do what they do in town – eat and shop. There was a wine festival going on (this is a wine region with lots of vineyards we have been riding through and along) and a carnival but we still had energy and carried on to the village of Sasbach, two kilometers off the Rhein River,where a room was found at the guesthouse. Walked to the grocery store in preparations for future lunch materials, as next day is Sunday and most stores are closed.
After the walk I laid in room and caught up on reading, as still in the 30s temperature wise (90s Fahrenheit). Dinner and bed and no internet at hotel so we were with each other.
Today much the same although breakfast not until 8 so we packed and we’re ready to depart immediately after breakfast skipping the last cup of coffee. Supposed to be hotter today and it was. On arrival here it was 34 on my Garmin (95 F). And do not forget the humidity. Sweating is a way of life, and then you do something.
But good riding deciding to stay on the German side of border as more along the river and hopefully a bit of breeze. (Not much but almost a breeze, the sailboats were moving) our goal was Kehl across the river from Strassborg on the French side. Bike path the entire way.
With only 3 k to the town center, we were riding through a park and pass a couple who commented on my Alaska jersey. Seems Alaska is quite the place. Anyway we talked and told them our story as they seemed interested. They lived in Kehl but said not much of interest there but yes Strassbourg was interesting. They came from England and Australia, hence their English was good.
We mentioned looking for a hotel. He looked on his app “Very last room” and we had reservations 3 kilometers away and apparently walking distance to downtown Strassbourg where this evening we will try and see the lightshow on the cathedral. Strassborg is apparently a world heritage center although my German does not allow me to know why. But many have told us it is interesting. We shall see.
And crossed the first bridge which is pedestrian bike only. Having a beer on entrance to France as once again the heat is stifling and it was 70 kilometers again.
Die Brücke der Zwei Ufer
Historically this area along the river has for centuries gone back and forth between Germany and France. Apparently the bridge was built after the war as a friendship gesture between the countries.
And our hotel is delightful although the current temperature is 95 F and windows and doors open.
view from 4th floor of Hotel Esplanade
And just as I am figuring out German we go into France where my French is non existent alas.
“real generosity to the future lies in giving all to the present.”
Albert Camus
Ok we stayed in the hotel at Meersburg exacting every inch of luxury out of it, staying until just past checkouts time of 10:30. Actually quite delightful staying in the fancy hotel with little old ladies and their tiny dogs, brought to breakfast under the table. I called various folks to update them on our progress – Günter, Bridgete, and Britta in Köln. Then it was time and this time without a friend to guide us along, explain, translate, show us the way and generally provide some excellent companionship. It was Jeanne and me and my limited German language skills.
Wondered through the see side of Meersburg and found the ferry crossing to Kanstance and the southern side of the lake, which is where the main route goes. We had detoured to the north side to visit Alfred, Bridgete, see Freidrichschafen and the Zeppelin museum, and Germany is the north side, tugs avoiding the expense of Switzerland. We found the Euro15 and Swiss route 2 route signs marking the bicycle route, and we were back in business.
Ferry ride from. Meersburg to Konstance
Navigating the route is simple but like any navigation can be misled easily. There are bike way signs frequently and nearly every corner. One just has to be aware and find them. Then I have the Garmin GPS with Europe cycling routes loaded in, and Alfred loaded the GPX tracks in. But the problem is even though it is supposed to reroute when off course it still wants me to visit every waypoint, even backtracking to it. I just restart from current location. Thus navigation is a combination of things – GPS, signs, the maps and guide books (all in German) and the tried and true method of we are going downriver.
bicycle Route signs
The interesting part is Jeanne does not have a competitive bone in her body but often ends up in front and I have to chase her down for a missed turn or course correction. She focus’s on riding and sometimes forgets to look for the signs.
It was delightful riding mostly on bike path, just cruising along. We agreed before the ride to go approximately 60 kilometers a day and now we agreed to start looking about 4 pm for a place to stay. We want to just see how it feels. If one has reservations one must either be there and it is a long day or a short day.
We made it to Diessenhofen on the Swiss side and Gallingen on the German side with a Swiss town apparently built in midevil times 1500-1600) and the bridge in 1814-1815.
bridge between Diessenhofen, Switzerland and Germany
We agreed to stop but did not want to cross in Switzerland. But Gailingen was definitely at the top of hill, thus we roads down the trail along river for a bit but realized no guest houses were forthcoming so back and climbed the hill.
Ended up at first guesthouse we came to for 60€ and took it with shared bath and shower. Overlooked town square and delightful. Sat out on terrace where wifi was available and drank a delightful beer. Then on to a restaurant for dinner deciding to try somewhere else to eat. Lovely outdoor restaurant with incredible food. Am loving this restaurant which is leisurely. Dinner was nearly 3 hours long. Sit, talk, drink, enjoy and oh yes savor some delightful food. Not rushed in the least. I remember coming back from South America and going to a German restaurant in Plano, Texas and feeling rushed through, like the restaurant was a factory. Here it feels comfortable to just order a beer and sit and enjoy even if it takes hours.
But onward. Breakfast at the guesthouse (included) and down the hill back to the Rhein route, and toward Schaffhausen and the Rhine Falls, a major attraction. People told us it is no Niagra falls but it is spectacular. I have not seen Niagra falls and it is not high on my list but waterfalls are each one wonderful and different. The Rhine here averages 22000 cubic feet per second so is a big river and the falls are impressive.
above the Rhine fall a nice couple. Jeanne and J. R.rhein Falls
One incident nearly disastrous when we came up to an intersection on the road. We were behind a car and traffic ligh from the road we were to join, but I could not see one for our direction. I figured I just could not see it and waited behind the car in front. He took off and I thought I saw the oncoming cars light turn red but when I reached the middle of street a car was bearing down on me from the right with no apparent desire to stop. I was at speed now turning left and a car was coming from the right with also no apparent desire to stop. I made it, but what the $:&!?)&. Alas things are different here. There was a light on main road but none from the road we came from. The car in front had seen a clearance and took it. Unfortunately it was not a green light and I nearly changed our trip.
Then on stopping at grocery store for lunch supplies. More fun to just stop and picnic at trail side. The grocery store had well used bicycle parking right at the door. The carts were locked and you put a coin in and it unlocked the chain. When done you return the cart reconnect the chain and your coin is returned.grocery store parking
Lunch Stop
Then onward thinking we might get to Waldshut but probably not. Well soon we were riding along the Rhein route alongside the river riding watching people swim and enjoy the water. The river is incredibly clean and apparently great to swim and boat, although we have not tried as yet.
Then we were at Waldshut and it was hot, and the town center is uphill, from the trail along the river. Before we knew it we had passed it by, although now looking and the heat becoming oppressive in the 80s with humidity. And no hotels, all full. Waldshut was at about 50 kilometers for the day and after numerous stops and side trips and questions and heat and very tired, we made it to Luttingen a very tiny village before Laufenburg. Numerous hotels and guest houses and people had told us places ahead and given directions and distances. Almost all were wrong. No more than 200 meters was 2 kilometers, 2 kilometers was 4 and sometimes there was nothing there. Alas part of the adventure but we were hot tired and cranky, but I might add still getting along.
We went a total of 76 kilometers when the Hotel Kranz turned up, and it was delightful. Good beer, good shower, good wifi, and very pleasant staff. Seems every place we stay (except the one in Tamins, before Chur) the staff has been very excited and appreciative when we like it. It is as if they are personally involved, and not just a job.
They said part of the reason the hotels are full in this area is it is holiday time, but also the nuclear plant requires yearly maintenance and it is done in August. So hotels full of the workers.
Another incredible dinner and meal and talked with three ladies also riding the Rhein route but going up to the Bodensee where one has a sister living. They commented how the river is very clean now which was not true 20-30 years ago. Perhaps the world is realizing we cannot just dump our waste.
And she mentioned she had been to the United States and found it disconcerting all the lakes were private access. Here it is public all along the beach and accessible. (Think Lake Tahoe, California, Flathead Lake in Montana, Kenai river in Alaska, or even Kenai Fjords National Park. All private beach access) Folks have come to realize the importance of nature and access here, not just who has the money and the rest of you stay away. (I had the same complaint when riding the great divide 3 years ago). Alas!
along the Rhine
Then today and not wanting to get burned again with no hotel picked one from booking.com hoping it to be about 60 K away. Some said it was 40 to Basel the maps said 55 so whatever. We opted for Weil am Rhein because it was in Germany and avoided Switzerland and we could shortcut bypassing the city. Could have stayed in St.Louis France but that meant going through Basel.
side route along the Rhein wayresting along RheinfeldenRhein route near Basel below railroad tracksUnder the train tracks Baselcrossing the hydroelctric dam between Switzerland and Germany
And a delightful day even though the temperature did hit 37 degrees on my Garmin. (High 90s Fahrenheit for those still using that old system) we could never tell where we would be riding sometimes along a great forest road along the river sometimes small villages and near Basel forests and below train overpasses. Criss crossed the river numerous times sometimes in Switzerland (did not have to buy anything) and Germany finally crossing into Germany for final time just before the hotel. We did 57 kilometers and arrived at the delightful time of 2:30. Sweating and tired but the room is huge and we have been downing Radlers (half lemon aid and half beer) and straight beer.
The beer here in Germany is great, but almost always local. Not a microbrew with numerous choices of tastes, but a Hefeweizen or sometimes and ale. It is made and sold only regionally. But always good. I remember living in Germany for a few months in 1967 and coming home. My dad offered me a beer when home either an Olympia or a Coors and I remember saying “What is this?”. Made me glad I was underage and did not have to drink that stuff. Have disliked “those beers” ever since. So many choices in the world why drink bad beer.
And we now have gone 483 kilometers of the supposed 1300 for the entire route. Our map says this past part was 435 kilometers although we we on the north side of Bodensee and did go to Alfred’s and Bridgete. One article said it was 250 kilometers. Whatever we had fun and a third of the way.
Alfred had asked us to visit his home and perhaps a rest day. We gladly accepted the invitation, and rode the 70 kilometers from Mäder, Austria to Vogt, by way of Bregenz at the east end of Bodensee (Lake Constance). The city was crowded but still a bike path along the lake although lots of activity which does not allow rapid transit. A flea market, and the opera set of Turandot by Puccini. What an amazing set and backdrop by and in the water of the lake.
Then on and we are continueing to be amazed at the delightful countryside. Being Sunday people are out enjoying life, biking, going to the beach and enjoying the sun. Vogt is at an altitude of 725 meters whereas the Bodensee is at 400 so a bit of a climb but it is all hill country of up and down. Did a total of 525 meters and again we managed to get tired. Must have something to do with no riding or exercise all summer.
Bridget, Alfred’s wife was waiting fo us and immediately began taking care of us having some Radlers ready and cakes. She took our laundry and washed it cleaning my jersey like it has never been done, returning all neatly folded. Wow!
That evening we watched each of our movies we had made of our time in South America. Fascinating to see the differences of slide shows. Different viewpoints of the same thing, although Alfred did get to start from Quito, thus had photos of the time in Ecuador and northern Peru.
Monday, Alfred, Jeanne and I head to the train station about 15 minutes drive. 2 hours later we are in Munich, to see the city. As with any city lots to do and not enough time, so we convince Alfred we enjoy just walking about. But first we head to the HofBrau House where Oktoberfest started. Now it is a huge festival the end of September and first of October which people throughout the world celebrate beer. The restaurant is now a tourist area but delightful.
Then off to the German museum which appeared from the outside to be a very good museum and it would have enough nice to see but alas time to return to the train.
OK we had a beer or twostreets of Munich
Deutsche Museumrelaxing along the waycity hall München
The trains continue to amaze me. 3-6 minutes to change and not to worry, even having to go under or over the tracks. Munich main train station
On our return again Bridgit had a wondrous delicious meal of soup, bred and cakes. Somehow we figured out I like sweets. Hmmm. But we ended up staying up late into the night, conversing, mostly about the adventure we had in South America. Every day was not so incredibly difficult, but when done day after day after day, not only did the physical aspects add up but the mental wearing down. Some survived it easier than others and some thrived. For Alfred and I we concluded we thoroughly enjoyed the trip and given all the time in the world would gladly repeat it. But there are so many other things. And one cannot repeat the same trip as time, weather, and people would be different. And Bridgit and Jeanne state they have a closer understanding of what happened along the way. They have heard the stories but not in combination with another rider who experienced the same thing. Jeanne had unfortunately had to go to bed a bit earlier than we, but still states she has a much better understanding, after being with the two of us. A delightful evening, bringing the memories back alive.
But we must continue. As delightful and wonderful as the visit was we are on a mission, thus yesterday we return to the bikes. Alfred loaded the GPX tracks from his computer of the Rhein trail onto my GPS and copied his movie for me, the we three rode to Freidrichshafen where we visited the zeppelin museum. Back along the Bodensee. A great place describing and showing the history of those incredible airships, including the disaster of the Hindenburg in 1937 at Lakehurst New Jersey. There is a full size mockup of the Hindenburg passenger area. Certainly not like air travel of today. Spacious.
Bridgit had made us a superb lunch and we sat along the waterfront, dreading the departure. We did not want to leave. But alas it was time.
And Jeanne and I were just he two of us. Other than Andermattthis was first time on the trail without someone to guide us and explain the marvels along the way. We planned to get out of town hoping to find cheaper lodging away from town. Alas it was not to be. Every place was booked up with no availability. At first we passed by the obviously more fancy places but then began to check them too. It is a delightful lake and beach area, and the Eurobike conference is curing in Freidrichshafen this week. It is the largest bike conference in Europe and we are told every room is booked for 20-30 kilometers. We were beginning to think we might end up wrapping up in what clothes we have along the beach. But a hotel across the bike trail had one rom left, but 125 euro per person. Not the most expensive place I or we have stayed but when we opened the door – wow. And dinner and breakfast included. Thus we sat on balcony overlooking the Bodensee and sunset. A wondrous 5 course meal of salads, fish lamb, desert and finished with another sit on the balcony watching the moon over the lake.
“A man’s growth is seen in the successive choirs of his friends.
—RALPH WALDO EMERSON, “Circles”
A most amazing incredible 3 days. Andermatt, Oberallppass, Disentis, where Alfred met us, and has cycled with us the past two days guiding us, telling stories, listening to stories.
Alfred who lives in Germany about 30 kilometers from Lake Constance (Bodensee) was on the Andes trail beginning in Quito. He placed second in the race and is obviously a superb athlete, but to me, more important is a good person.
But back to the beginning in Andermatt. Awoke and again rear tire flat. Front tire was ok and I had changed it the evening before so was a bit worried. Had the same kind of rim tape as rear tire but not worn. I changed it preemptively. Difficulty putting the tire on, and twice punctured the tube while attempting to get tire on. Finally on and seemed good but the pump was getting tiring as small and basically only for emergency and it was not up to the task of fully inflating tire. Thus to the bike store for a new pump and more spare tubes.
At the bike shop the gal (Carmen) offered to look at rear tire just to double check my work. Two hours later a new tire, tubes, patch kits (2), and a pump. And tire installed with great difficulty, she punctured two tubes installing on tire which old one she found a hole although was not the cause of the flats. Took two of us to get the new tire on and neither of us understood why. Both old and new tires were 700c and sized 622 but old tire was 29″ and new one 28″. But 700c and 622 on both old and new, which should be the more accurate numbers of size and fitting.. What is what neither of us new. Finally done and bill paid, time to get on road. Carmen came out to bid us farewell and we both realized tire on backwards. Ok I will live with it.
Andermatt, Switzerland Jeanne was very nervousness about the climb. I as usual do not really understand as what I see is Avery good cyclist although timid. As usual I think physical activity is mostly mental. Both Carmen and I reassured her just go slow and stop as necessary, but when one feels nervousness someone telling you that you are better than you feel does not always help. But we started up the numerous switchbacks basically 5 kilometers of 8% slope then 3-4% for 6 kilometers. A total of 600 meters elevation gain. And the Swiss countryside was awesome. Steep slopes seemingly mowed neatly, a cog railway with tourists aboard taking our pictures sweatin away. The road near the top had a tunnel built to protect it from avalanches. Again saw the couple from Budapest, Hungary and we all celebrated at the top with a little lunch. They are on 4th year of honeymoon, riding recumbents. They have have cycled all over the world now. Discussed how much and what to carry. She said you have to take what makes you comfortable and that varies between people.
Swiss nountain road near Oberalppas. note the car passing safely the descent headwaters of the rhine Then the descent : the first 5 kilometer was a 12% grade with numerous switchbacks, then 20 k of just downhill. We were tired as did not leave until after noon. Picked the first place which was a wonderful hostel and I called Alfred who was riding up from Illanti after taking train from his home just north of Lake Constance. He arrived 10 minutes later and we three talked after a hearty hug on greeting. We sat and talked out front drinking beer, the out back for dinner and more beer. A delightful evening.
Up the next day making our own breakfast in the hostel. Then off riding. Took a while to find trail but when we did great. Had debated riding the road but then discovered Rhein bike path was on other side of valley. It was a great trail, but it went up and down.
In the end we climbed 674 meters, whereas yesterday only 607. But overall dropped 300 meters in elevation. Even some single track, although mostly gravel. End of day more pavement by the “Grand Canyon of the Rhein” gorgeous! Totally pooped out at end of day not making it to intended destination of Chur. This we gave up but the only guest house in town was up a steep hill. 60 kilometers and we were tired. Guess we are paying the price of not riding much this summer. And guest house was not overly impressive so got the bus for 10 k ride into Chur and music festival going on.
Today absolutely incredible. We started up high on oberalpass where the Rhein starts as a small spring, but today it became a small river. After Chur it is well contained inside dams and bike paths run down both sides.
bike bridge between lichstenstein and swirzerland We crossed over into Lichstenstein and road its 20 kilometer length. Lichstenstein is one of the smallest countries in the world. Then into Austria Stopping for a coffee but order these incredible pasta meals with radler beers. We then decideded enough for one day, but had to ride on 5o find a place to stay. First town with two places full, and roads on to Mäden and a delightful place. Showered and sat out on porch drinking beer and having desert and wiener schnitzel of some sort. Also excellently, then some great conversation reliving the Andes trail. 85 kilometers today and at midnight still up.
Also to note we got to Austria and prices back to somewhat normal. Meals in Switzerland were 30-35 each whereas in Austria we pay 8-12 for similar. Beer in Switzerland was 8-10 and Austria 3.5. Everyone has told us Switzerland is almost three times as expensive. (Those prices are for Swiss francs and euros, which are basically 1:1 in value.). No wonder people do not go to Switzerland.
Left the Köln area, with Britta driving us to the Bonn railway station, a 20 minute drive. We had put our gear (mostly clothes into the panniers but have never really rode with them on the bikes. This will be a first for Jeanne. I have had several trips with panniers and do not like the way the extra weight can throw you around. But unless you pay someone to carry your stuff this is the only way I know of, although The Great Divide trip was nice as lightweight and centered.
But an hour or two after I had fitted the bikes, put on Jeanne’s peddles, attached computers etc., we were sitting inside and a sudden whoosh as “my” bikes rear tire developed a hole in the tube. Aargghhhh. Ok change it, and notice Jeanne’s front tire is low after just pumping it up an hour before. Arrgghhhh! Ok Jeanne’s was the valve, and easily fixed by just tightening the valve which came loose when pumping the tire. But repaired mine with a patch, pumped it up and good to go. Could find nothing in the tire to make a cause of the hole.
A delightful barbecue dinner with Britta and the boys, final packing and begin to load the two bikes, and panniers into the car. My rear tire is flat, and I do a quick repair again. Off to the train station arriving a bit over an early so as not to keep Britta up all night.
At the airport we begin working about getting onto the right train, and as we only have minutes to find the right car for our bikes, load them and then find our car. I start talking with a gal from Köln who spoke excellent English and she explained how you could find where each car would stop.
Every once in a while a train would come roaring through, usually a cargo train. They do not seem to slow down or if they do, only to maybe 60-70 mph.. No wonder you do not even consider jumping over the tracks. Standing on the platform 3 feet from the tracks and a train comes flying by, wow. Jeanne’s hair in this humidity is wild and the wind for the train made it fly.
But we decided on a proper spot where our car (#176) would be and waited, but alas it will be 15 minutes late, then 20 then 25 minutes late. We have 6 hours to Basel, Switzerland where we have 11 minutes to change trains. Oh boy a new worry, but not much can be done now.
The train finally arrives and we have missed our car by only a car length. Climb on pulling the bikes up the steps, panniers throwing weight the wrong way. And we see why reservations for the bikes are needed. It is a special car and maybe 50 bikes hanging from hangers on the walls. A conductor happens by and gets us squared away on the last two hangers, numbers 24 and 25, and checks bike tickets to reassure us, and I notice we are moving and have left the station so now to wander up 3 cars to our seats. Trains are so smooth one barely can tell you are moving. Seems there are not seats as I am used to but compartments. We are lost on the dark train but again a conductor is sitting in his office and helps us out. Turns out our seats are in a compartment of 6 bunks. Someone else had been lost and was in one of our bottom bunks, but after the conductor got us put away he took care of him. Wow a bed, how civilized. Fell asleep almost immediately until my alarm went off at 6 am. 5 delightful hours of sleep.
Then back to the bikes where several others are gathered for their bikes. My rear tire is flat. But we arrived at the station at scheduled time of 6:47 and off we go to find the correct track and train, taking the elevator one at a time from tack 10 to track 3. We make it for the 7:04 departure, this time it is an interegional train not requiring reservations. There are specific cars though for bikes, but we find it, Jeanne and I argueing over if it is the right train as nothing says it is going to Göschenen, but the track number is correct. Jeanne wants to get off rather than find ourselves somewhere wrong, but I prevail and we stay on trusting the paperwork. We hang the bikes and I remove the wheel again, determined to find the cause, as this one was a brand new tube. Repair the tube and find a hole in the rim tape wrapping the wheel to protect the tube from sharp edges of the spokes and rim. I take the plastic from a bag of nuts we have and cover the area repairing the tube, and pumping with our small pump, totally breaking sweat. It is not a good morning as grumpy and pissy.
I realize jet lag is still affecting me. I just feel off. Letting the worries get to me, little sleep at the wrong time, etc. etc.
jeanne awaiting arrival at Görshenen. the bike symbell shows it is a train car which can carry bikes.
We ride up into the hills and all looks like a Swiss postcard, people are off and on the train at each stop, finally after leaving Lucerne, Göshenen shows up on one of the stops. This time we have 6 minutes to change but our next ride is less than 15 minutes. I figure we could bike it if train is missed. This time it is a regional train and only three cars. We lift the bikes onto the freight car. Then as the train begins I wonder “what was I thinking we could ride this”. It is a cog railway taking us up a narrow canyon through tunnels and looking out on the highway cut into the mountain. Jeanne described it as a developed Yosemite valley. Incredibly beautiful, and raining, but we reach our final destination of Andermatt at our scheduled time of 10:04. Another wasted worry.
downtown Andermatt City center and main streetarea around Andermatt
Andermatt is obviously a ski town with the ski runs coming apparently right into town. It has narrow cobblestone streets
and is quite charming.
We walk to our hotel with the bike GPS directions, a distance of 435 meters, pushing the bikes as in street clothes and my rear tire although still inflated because of my morning pumping was lacking, is low, and not because of flat.
This is the only reservation we have made which is non refundable and we felt first night should have something. Numerous sources had said would be difficult, thus we reserved a cheaper hotel online at 155€. I think we are the only ones here. Oh well as soon as we could get into room we both fell asleep barely talking as still grumpy. This is proving to be my worst day of jet lag yet.
But Jeanne woke me about 1:30 and we walked to bike store to check for rim tape, another spare tube and a cycle computer for Jeanne as hers lost somewhere during the night. Nice to walk about and now only misting, with clouds above us. Temperature of 6 C (40s f) and rather pleasant although very humid and chilly. Back for more clothes. Lunch and bike repair also changing the front rim tape as same thin tape on it, so preemptive.
Texted Günter our arrival and our trials. He responded “all part of the adventure”
We have been assured only the first few switchbacks of tomorrow’s climb is steep then it gradually climbs the 800 meters over 11 kilometers then we reach the headwaters of the Rhein river.
jrpatee 