“Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion.”–Anatoli Boukreev
20 July 2016 

 46 years ago today I was working in Idaho beneath the Teton mountains spraying trees with this kerosene substance to attempt to decrease the pine beetle infestation in Idaho. Walking through the woods 10-15 miles a day, listening to the radio as Neil Armstrong landed on the moon.  

Today Jeanne and I drove another 324 miles along the Yellowhead highway in Canada. Just driving a good highway along rolling hills. Forests and fields. More traffic.  And we continue to comment on the lack of garbage, frequent rest areas, and more frequent garbage cans.  (I wonder if there is a correlation with frequent garbage cans and lack of litter on the road).  (There is also up to $2000 fine for littering)  

A stop at the ancient forest of western Cedar. Apparently in 2005 a graduate student was studying western Cedar and discovered that they had buttress roots which are seen in tropical trees but are found in trees residing in wet soils. This area of trees was obviously more than just old growth forest but ancient, some trees nearly 2000 years old. It was also scheduled to be clear cut. He got the word out to the public and in 2006 the logging company withdrew their claim and it became protected.  The buttresses on these trees help to support the tree in the wet soils as well as provide more area for nutrient absorption.  I am sure it is more complicated than that, but that is what I remember from the information sign.  

But these amazing cedar trees, with great interpretive signs. And boardwalks have been made which are like walking through a tree house. They make walking easier but also protect the cedar roots from compaction. Raining on us (imagine that in a rain forest) but the number of species was amazing. On one cedar without even trying one could count 4 species of lichen.  

Then on to Rearguard falls on the Frasier river. 800 kilometers from the ocean and this is the highest the chinook salmon can go. The falls although not high are spectacular.  

Currently residing in the Mt. Robson Provincial Park Meadows campground. Unfortunately the clouds are about and the most spectacular mountain view from a highway in the world is not to be seen. Perhaps in the morning.  It is the same camp Joe and I stayed at 4 years ago.
thus the road trip continues. Soon will make it to Columbia Falls where my sister resides and we will pick up Constance and Dave where they are leaving their pickup for later pickup. Then we drive back north to Banff where we meet James and Nancy at the airport on the night of 23 and start riding on the 25. Yahoo. 

A map of our route 2 days ago back to Alaska.. Ketchikan, Alaska is noted in very bottom center.Interesting is the Internet availability.  Again as usual I am amazed at the lack there of.  Today was only twice: at the beginning and I am assuming at Prince George a city along the way.  I say assuming because Canada being a foreign country we have our phones turned off.  But I have acquired a small device which connects to any cell network and makes a hot spot for you.  We did it last night at Burns Lake and worked great.  But if no cell network there is no hotspot.  Which was almost all day except as noted and not here at Mt.  Robaon park.   I suspect not tomorrow driving down the ice field highway.  
For those interested the address for these tracks is

J. R. & Jeanne’s SPOT tracking
Made it to Jasper and turned on Internet.  Whoopee.  About 340 miles  a day .(540 km). Not a fast pace but also moving along 

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous. leading to the most amazing views. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.

Edward Abbey
Road trip – the great American adventure.  8 days 2800+ miles (4500 km) 6-7 hours a day on the road.  New sights, what’s over the horizon.  What makes that gully, what makes that tree grow there, why is there an outpost there, what is the history of this area, what did it take to build this road, where are these cars going???  So many questions so many observations.  So much to do. 

Traveling the highway south from Anchorage one sees a ittsy bitty teeny tiny portion of the world.  And you realize how big the world is.  And this is what we miss when we fly over taking but hours to go our distance.  Imagine what one sees from a bicycle or walking.  
And four continental divide crossings.  One at Mentasta summit going from copper river drainage into the gulf of Alaska, then over the pass to Yukon draining into the Bering sea, and near Haines junction back to gulf of Alaska drainage, and back to Yukon. Today crossed over to the Mackenzie river drainage flowing into the Beaufort sea and Arctic Ocean.  Whoop whoop. And the upcoming trip crosses the great river of the west Columbia, green, Colorado, rio grande.  I find it exciting.

Sitting here tonight just us beside the road and blue lake.  Busy road this Cassiar highway, in the past 3 hours since our arrival maybe 25 cars.  But we sat at a picnic table, watched the loons on the lake, sun appearing and disappearing behind the clouds, occasional light rain grilled some brats and had a delicious meal of brats and Cole slaw.  Does life get any better.  

But I realize not everyone might enjoy this.  Jeanne and I hosted an exchange student from Sweden many years ago and we would laugh as he would be asleep in the car before a hundred meters had gone by.  Me, there is way to much to do. If one is driving keep an eye on driving but also the vehicle systems, electrics, rpm, fuel, speed, stay on the road, Is everything attached to the car still there etc.  One can take those things for granted but in the end are rather important.  If a passenger navigation, reading on the history of area, where are we and how far is it to ?

And we have been listening to podcasts stored on the phone.  Mostly medical lectures, but TED talks and such too.  Always interesting to learn new stuff.  

But and that is a big but, not everyone, I think, finds the thrill in all those tasks.  A friend once brought their mother to Alaska and drove to Denali park from anchorage.  A distance of 200 miles.  Her mother could not figure out what the expanse of country was between Anchorage and Denali park.  But in their defense perhaps I do not see the intricacies of New York City blocks. Everyone to their own.  I like this here. 250 kilometers (150 miles) to the next petrol station, with nothing but awesome forest between.  

But as noted perhaps it is not for everyone.  Maybe sitting in a car for long hours creates an antsyness .  Some folks just cannot sit still or cannot occupy their mind with the myriad questions I seem to fill my mind with.  

We did go for a delightful walk today along side miles canyon on the Yukon river.  Makes it me think of the history of the Klondike gold rush and the endeavors of mankind to get rich.  

Oh yeah I forgot the part in last entry about problems with sprinter van and engine diagnostics light saying the van would erupt in approximately 500 miles.  Well read the manual numerous times and concluded it was tire pressure gauges which had just been installed with the new tires were not calibrated.  So wth several readings of manual determined how to calibrate and working awesome since.  Just need to figure out how the computer works.  Sorry but it is 2016 and computers are part of our lives.  Even on a road trip. 

Ok made it to to Alaska after driving 1425 miles (2293 km).  Hyder is a town of 50 permanent population and only access is through Stewart, British Columbia, Canada.  But it is Alaska. Mileage in miles etc although have to have a passport to leave town.  Drove to salmon glacier where parked for the night.  Long day 399 miles.  But the drive changed country from boreal forests of spruce to pines, firs, hemlock, and cedars.

Being Negative only makes a difficult journey more difficult.     unknown
Finally departed although not until nearly 2 pm.  Not exactly hurrying.  James brought the sprinter van over and gave us final instructions for its use.  Lot of systems: plumbing, propane, electric, inverter, solar, heat, etc.  and the usual driving stuff registration, insurance, etc. and of course stowing stuff away.  For Jeanne and I not bad as just the two of us, but when we reach Bannff will be six of us stowing gear.  Similar to a sailboat efficient and compact.   The neighbors Joan and Doug popped over to check out the van and say goodbye.  Their comment was “so this is what retirement is like”!  But during that time Jeanne discovers red salmon are on sale at Fred Meyers for $6.99 a pound fresh whole fish.  And this year we have none.  But they were not delivered yet and would not be for a few days.  Joan is graciously going to go get us some, take to the processor for filleting, cutting, vacuum sealing and freezing, then delivering it to our freezer.  Now that is an awesome neighbor. Normally that is how I like to fish.  Much more efficient, cheaper and it allows time for fun things.
Finally James, Jeanne and I went to Freddie’s for last minute items (and to makes sure the fish is not in yet) dropped off James at his house, check the tire pressures and off we go.  Stopped at the ski jumps to check progress and amazing how it is coming along.  Saw a black bear crossing the road where we were working yesterday.  Then coffee and hit the road.  Road trip.A great drive 350 miles just shy of Tok.  Staying at a state campground with little Tok river flowing behind.  Coming into Glennallen thick clouds  scattered heavy rain and lightening. Fuel, burgers and back on the road.  Mt Drum was clear at lower levels but above the 7000 feet clouds covered the summit which appeared to glow red beneath.  Many clouds in the area were red  I figured due to low sun but after we drove about 20 miles rounded a corner and noticed it was a forest fire, probably started from the numerous lightening we had seen when approaching Glennallen.  Saw a few fire trucks observing the rising smoke from the road, but would require a helitack crew or smoke jumpers as it was maybe 10 miles off the road.  Road trips are always fascinating.  A continuous bombardment of changing scenery.

And a fox running down the road stopped to look at us with squirrel in his mouth. Not offering it up to us for dinner I suppose.But a potential problem with an engine diagnostic light which came on.  Operating manual is very vague about what it could be saying everything from low tires (they are fine) to engine won’t start (does very well) to exhaust problems (cannot detect anything different). Guess it will require a trip to a mechanic in Tok although manual is very specific about taking it only to a certified Mercedes Benz sprinter mechanic.  Hmm yeah right.  We shall see.

And bummed because all the prep I did weighing stuff to the gram I seem to have forgotten a micro USB cable which charges the gps, cameras, connect cameras to iPad and compute’ and updates the SPOT.  So no pictures now.  Sometime I would like to do a trip where I do not forget some little thing which is important.  Ugh 

The only thing I know

Is that I know nothing

Socrates

Well as noted last week I have occupied the time available.  Now the evening before depart for a two month trip I decide I best pack some stuff.  Luckily I have done this trip before, and being a bit of a nerd I had a list of everything we had and used.  Thus I have gone through it and made a new list with weights.

I am at 29.2 kg (64 pounds) including the bike. In 2012 I had 28.7b kg (63 pounds).   Wow fairly similar.  Some stuff was heavier some lighter and some I dropped. But since then I have added a few items which I did not weigh. 

But it seems luxurious.  Driving the van down to Banff and we will have support to carry stuff during the day.  Wow.  Hence one thinks different.  Maybe an extra pair of clothes, (now three pair: biking, off bike clothes, and a pair of clothes for van.)  More stuff to keep track of.  And a bowl and plate, not just a bowl.   Decadent.

But coming together mind racing.  Get the house sitter squared away with instructions, clean house ( I confess mostly by Jeanne), get ready for next trips after this one.  Bills paid.  The myriad things to do. 

But it is at the point of the more you forget the less you have to do or carry. 

 Why do I get so nervous. Guess that is just me: get used to it.  

The only thing I know

Is that I know nothing

    Socrates

Well some very delightful days in the cities of Rotterdam and Amsterdam.  Took a bit to find our hotel as disguised as a bar and hidden away upstairs was the reception desk.  Hotel Clino a great place and only €60 a night in the center of town.  Bike parking difficult but our room was very large so we just parked the bikes in room (carrying them up the narrow spiral staircase) we were not going to use them anyway, as seems everything within walking distance.  

And most interesting as auto traffic is minimal.  Rotterdam has a population of about 700000 in the same urban area as Anchorage, (about 80 square miles), and traffic is much less, although parking would be an issue.  Even in the rain people take bikes, and they do not change clothes just work clothes on the bike( suits, skirts, heels, etc.)

We have friends who used to live in Anchorage and have purchased a canal boat here in the Netherlands and next summer intend to cruise the canals of Europe). Lyn and Eric took the train from Roermond near the Holland German border and spent two days with us, which was great  

 Seems on our bicycle ride we never had bad rainy weather except one very short time but when we reached the cities bad weather came in.  We went up the Euromaast tower but could only go to 80 meters due to the wind, whereas the full tower observation point is 185 meters.  It was too windy.  On a good day one can rappel from the top.  But we had a great time just walking the city, going in for coffee and beers, food, and visiting with Lyn and Eric.  

Lyn and Eric stayed the night and then the four of us hopped on the train for the 40 minute ride to Amsterdam.  (80 kilometers).  Quite a difference in cities.  Rotterdam was pretty much destroyed in World War II hence a lot of new modern architecture and sky scrapers.  Amsterdam is a city of canals with the central part built in about 1650. The buildings are 3-4 stories and next to one another, and as I understand it courtyards in the middle of the block of buildings.  The buildings were usually built leaning slightly outward to make them look larger and also to allow  the hoists built into the roof to lift furniture into the building without hitting the building.  (The furniture is taken through the windows). But the 450 years since the original have allowed for a bit of settling also on the water and sand Amsterdam is built on.   

 
  
The canals which is what the city was designed about circle the central area with usually a one way road on each side sometimes with a tram too and of course the bicycles.  Amsterdam is the city of bikes.   We took a canal tour which was great and the captain noted that the canals are 3 meters deep – 1 meter of water, 1 meter of mud, and 1 meter of bicycles.  There are usually no railing about the canals, except on the bridges.

But many stores and store fronts.  Would have liked the prostitution museum but again time constraints.  Kind of interesting such a common thing as sex has become a tourist attraction.

And little stores all over grocery stores, souvenir shops, sex shops for specific variations, and pot shops.   

    
   
Interesting business.

Lyn and Eric departed on train back to Roermond and Jeanne and I to Rotterdam.  I am still amazed at the trains.  Even though supposedly slow still fast by U.S. Standards. 

departed our friends house in absolutely no hurry.  Was a good rest day although did nothing, for the rest day.  I suppose that is what a rest day is.  Jeanne enjoyed talking with Britta.  I realize she, who is the more social one of the two of us, has been unable to converse as I have because I at least have the ability to ask for a hotel room or know a little bit of the language.  I will sometimes start a conversation with how are you and progress from there, but it usually ends shortly hereafter when my German language vocabulary is done. 

We thought the day would be easy with just riding to the other side of Köln, but it did not work out that way.  A delightful ride from the Mannings home in Lohma into and along the promenade of Köln, but by end of day we had gone further than the expected 40 k.  We came to a delightful town of Stadt Zons just before Düsseldorf  and thought a good place to stay but alas everything with no room or closed up tight. It was a cute little walled village of midevil times.  Once we decided to stop we were tired without much energy.  4 pm seemed a reasonable time to quit and look for a room.  

Ended up on ferry across river and progressed.  Stopped at a 4 star hotel but no double room but he did call and there was one hotel with a room and it was 95€ euro for a double nearby.  He only had address though but inquired if we had a navigation system which we do.  (GPS). But the street address would not register.  We rode on, Jeanne saying maybe we would have more luck in the congested areas rather than along the bike path.  On a lark I went up a side street and a hotel/ restaurant sign, was there. I checked and available although it was going through some construction and the stairs were just plywood.  The room was nice and the Italian dinner exquisite.  The bikes were stored in the wine cellar.  

Next day from the southern end of Düsseldorf we rode mostly without a clue of where we were, just head in the general,direction of river flow. Düsseldorf is 11 million people hence bigger than we expected and we meandered along the river enjoying the scenery and after the fact enjoying the navigation problems.  Finally reached the city center and on a lark went by the huge tower near city center.  On a lark went up it, locking our bikes in bike racks at base, storing bags at ticket counter and took the elevator to the 168 meter observation tower.  Delightful. Looked down on the bike path we had ridden with bike foot specific bridges.  A superb view of where we had been and where we were going.   

About 3 pm, I began to tire although had only gone only 43 k.  Again we thought no problem with a hotel. Wrong again.  At first looked in town just off route and no hotels but found one within a kilometer, but they had no rooms.  One clerk looked up on computer rooms available and said only oneswere  in the city.  I had to ask what city, as our map only covers approximately 2 k either side of river and names seem different than listed on direction of bike routes or on our GPS.  He said just follow railroad tracks into town.  Hmmm. 7 kilometer, but now we are tired.  Is finding a hotel that difficult?  I guess so.  Seems common for us now to think no problem and then ride 20 k trying to find a place.  

 But made it to city hotel near the main train station In the middle of town of Kablenz.  Not a bad ride but city.  Asked the registration clerk about busy rooms and he said his idea of why it was difficult for us was the smaller town have only a few rooms and may be full but many do not want to rent to bicycles, as they are only one night stays.    Hotels prefer business travelers who stay 3 and 4 nights.  

  
  But made reservation for next night guessing at 65 kilometers on down the river.  Tried to stay away from booking dot com as I know they charge 15% and would like hotel to get full amount.  Booked on Internet but after I found  much cheaper places on booking.com.  I tried.   

small roads and bike paths.  Ended up 74 kilometers in the delightful historic town of Xanten with a 4000 year history.  Anchorage is a 100 years old this year so a bit different.  Hotel in midst of town and again a bit of luxury but part of adventure.  Dinner in square again outside where blankets are made available, as it is cooling off in September.  Delightful meal, and cost for

a 750 ml of great wine, appetizer, two wondrous full meals, desert, coffee, and great company for only 85€.  

And Internet.  When you have it you do not think much about it.  But not having It in today’s world is difficult.  And it is difficult to get just passing through as a visitor Hotels have very iffy wifi.  And may not have.  Paid 5€ last night and worked very sporadically.  Reminded me of 5 years ago at bike school in Colorado Springs with the hotel wifi, which was ok but not great, but ok.  The two Koreans asked me if anyone had wifi?  I responded the hotel had wifi and it was ok, but they just shook their heads.  I then remembered Korea standard is 100 MBytes/ second everywhere.  Geez we think 10 MBytes is good.  Everyone has their standards of what is acceptable. But thinking of how poor people survivewithout it.
 

   And thus another rambling story is over.  I could make it more concise I suppose but then the purpose of trip is bicycling and not writing.  We leave Germany today and into our 5th country of this trip (excluding Canada and Greenland on flight here). One week to go before return home.   Passed the three week mark and feeling better again.  Something about three weeks to get going and get a rhythm.  (We were here a week before starting bike ride). Good times!
 

First a correction,  thanks for those who helped with my misunderstandings.  Apparently there is not a 8%religious tax but for those who choose 8% of their income tax goes toward their church of choice.  Slightly different than I stated.  

I am interested in the religious aspects, but have realized Germany is different than the U. S.  Imagine that.  Not better not worse – different.  I myself wonder about the time and money spent on churches and religion, but have come to realize this is a magnificent place because of it.  The numerous cathedrals in nearly every town, village and city are truly magnificent 

Sort of like in South America when I was complaining to Buck one day about the dogs.  Buck corrected me in saying it was the culture and often there is a reason for it, even if you do not understand.  

Once again the diversity of ideas makes things wonderful. I do not play hockey but believe having hockey rinks in anchorage makes it a better place.  Many people in the U. S.  think space explorations is a waste, but I believe it adds to our human experience and enriches all our lives.

Ok rambling and enough.

We met Britta who had taken the morning train from home near Köln to ride with us for a few days.  Jeanne and I have been together basically just the two of us for several days and once again we began to unload stories on her.  Had to have a coffee at train station in Mainz as too excited to start riding immediately.  

Finally began working our way back to the delightful river promenade and back on the trail.  Just nice riding although not really beside the river.  Near Bingen came across some old bridge works with an explanation of the bridge was destroyed in January of 1945.  Somehow that struck me.  Guess they were looking to finalize the war and having destroyed nearly everything else of any military value were beginning to destroy things of value to the general population.  Ugh.

  
In Bingen we had no hotel but the first place we came to the proprietor said we appeared to be capable of the 3rd floor and we got a wonderful room with terrace overlooking the river, carnival, and Main Street. (Capable of third floor means able to walk up as rarity to have elevator)

We went for a most delightful meal at a nearby restaurant and headed towards the wine festival, but had to stop at the hotel room for a jacket as evening weather cooling off.  Well we made it to our terrace and spent the next 2 hours there just watching, talking, and enjoying life.  Never made it to the wine festival.  

Then we got to ride our bikes from Bingen to Koblenz.  Everyone had told us this was the best part of the ride and it lived up to its reputation. A river went into a valley maybe 200 meters deep (estimate 700 feet) with castles galore.  At the end of the day I asked how many we had seen. I thought dozens and dozens, and Britta said she thought she had a picture of each one, as did I.  I had pictures of 14 but there were many more I realized hidden away. 

   
We picked one castle in the village of Bacharach to visit. Delightful town and a short hike up to the castles for coffee and cake.  

Then a very short discussion of distance to the Manning residence and we decide to go for it, meeting Todd enroute just before Bonn.  Another great day of riding although I think how come 85 kilometers is a big day for us? Well we stop for our lunch, stop the bakery, (we have adopted the standard of can’t get bread the day before because then it is old), stop for coffee and Radlers and just stop to whatever and enjoy.  

  
And now it is raining and we have decided on a day off.  In 19 days of riding it is our third rest day and first in 14 days.  And in those days we have worn rain coats only for a total of maybe 10 minutes.  

Now washing clothes, cleaning, organizing and just enjoying a break.  Riding the bicycle is fun but back to diversity.  Just a bit of change.