“Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life – and travel – leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks – on your body or on your heart – are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt”

Anthony Bourdain

Continuing on our whirlwind tour we made our way into the town center of Christchurch, to see what makes it a city where people want to live. It lies on the Canterbury plains and generally I have a problem with flat, again my bias comes out. We had heard it was and is having a hard time rebuilding after the devastating earthquakes of 2010 & 2011.

We arrived and found a beautiful park next to the Avon river with easy parking, although it took a bit to figure out how to pay via the computerized meter. Soon though I was showing the locals.

We began walking and came across what was a boarded up church hoping to be rebuilt. Apparently it suffered major damage and was built in the late 1800’s. We found the earthquake museum and headed there, again leery of tourist attractions.

This museum was great not only explaining the stories and their earthquake but why it was so bad. Again my prejudice showed and I was thinking anchorage just had a 7.0 earthquake 30 November) which is what theirs was. Christchurch earthquake was in November of 2010. It shook for 45 seconds with some damage and some injuries. But they congratulated themselves and felt ok, but the aftershocks continued. In March 2011 a 6.0 aftershock hit and numerous buildings collapsed resulting in 135 people dying and thousands injured.

the museum continued with great explanations not only of plate tectonics but the process of liquifaction. Christchurch is built on unstable soils, as is anchorage, and that led to a collapse of numerous buildings weakened unknowingly in first big quake.

Since then thousands of people are working on how to mitigate damages. It is an ongoing process, not only with building codes, but soil and geology work. We had heard some of the damages areas were condemned and people had to move out, but then real estate developers came in and said it was better now and charged exorbitant prices for the old land. The museum did not mention this, but it did cover how work is ongoing on mitigating the soil problems.

As per usual I may have some of the facts misconstrued but I tried to remember and learn.

Then on to city center a block away where the “world buskers festival” was taking places.

great food trucks, great street entertainment, and time to move on.

Half way between Christchurch and Picton, where we catch the ferry Friday morning, is a peninsula Kaikoura with a town. Seemed perfect and what a surprise. Great beach incredible views and a very tourist town, but not obnoxious. Stayed at. Holiday 10 as the other camper parks had really bad reviews. We have found holiday 10’s ok but definite McDonald’s like in that you know what you are getting each time generally. This one was not as crowded and felt good.

This Thursday morning went for a hike out on the point and wonderful to just see the ocean. Departing found the world famous Kaikoura BBQ and opted for the blue cod dinner and chowder although the crayfish looked great(lobster)

And so we arrived picton completing our circumnavigation of the South Island. Time is way too short.

Paradise is not where you go but how you feel for one moment of your life.

Anonymous

alas, we are again feeling the pinch of time. Six weeks seemed like a long time, but now discussions cover what to miss or skip. New Zealand seems to be like Alaska; the longer you stay the longer the list of things to do grows longer. Thus far, would have been nice to spend more time at Cape Reinga, way up north, we skipped doubtful sound, and are going to skip Mt cook national park.

But on the good side, still time and just because we are skipping things does not mean we are not doing stuff.

Arrived Dunedin where a friend we had not seen in 5-6 years had gotten a job as an engineer. And Zak & Natasha were to meet us again here, as Jacob had brought some things from Alaska for them, replacing some of the items stolen earlier with their van breakin.

Arrived and discovered a royal albatross colony. Drove a delightful over the top tiny narrow road, overlooking ocean and found the colony. First sight is of the hundreds of red legged sea gulls.

Signed up for a tour, which again proved awesome. Sam, our guide was passionate about his work, and giving us information. One of the first things was the red legged sea gull is threatened as the krill they eat is being forced deeper than the birds can go, due to climate change and warming oceans.

Then on to the albatrosses where we saw several nesting. Approximately day 65 of 70 days incubating. These are huge birds weighing at about 8 kilos with a wing span over 3 meters. When not spending their year on land raising a chick they cruise the southern ocean circling the globe never stepping on land for a year and for new birds 5-6 years; just cruising the winds. But again threatened, the krill, squid and food sources they eat puts out a chemical called DMS (short for some chemical name) albatrosses are hunters by smell, and when this chemical emits a plume the birds key in on it. Unfortunately plastic uses DMS and after a month of degradation also emits a chemical plume. The birds eat the plastic and eventually die.

After the birds Jeanne and I walked the Otago university campus which was delightful. At appointed time met our friends and had a wonderful meal. Met Zak & Natasha in am to get a bag to take home for them. (Aw the joys of traveling, trying to take the exact right thing) we were in a camper park and they were in a “freedom camp”. Dunedin had turned the carpark used during the day into a camper park at night.

Then off we went for our longest day of driving yet 350 kilometers to Christchurch. 5 1/2 hours.

we had heard about the southern alps train going from Greymouth to Christchurch. We went through Greymouth on the west coast almost two weeks ago, but discovered you could only go to Christchurch then return. To stop in Arthur’s pass would require an overnight. From Christchurch one can go to Arthur’s pass, spend 6 hours, then return Christchurch all in one day.

Somewhere along the way we read it is one of the top 5 train rides in the world. Ok I was skeptical and immediately began comparing to Alaska railroad and the scenery in Alaska. Again I was wrong. Within a few minutes of departure I realized this was a modern train, not high speed but we were cruising at 100 kph. Takes a 4 hours to cross the country here 250 kilometer. (Ok it is the narrowest point) Through the mountains, some 25 tunnels, bridges, and an elevation gain of a thousand meters. We were impressed. Cars were comfortable, with huge windows, and an outside viewing platform car.

Six hours at Arthur’s pass and lots of hiking trails. We managed to exhaust ourselves trying to begin to cover them. With the walk to train station maybenanother 15 k day.

Another delightful walk through the incredible silver beech forest hoping to see the mountain parrot (Kea) without success. back on the train to return Christ church after a remarkable day. Do not try and compare to other places, rides or experiences. This is its own incredible experience.

I feel I need to reflect on the past 2 months of travel across north america.  (Well, almost two months, and almost cross country as never actually saw Atlantic Ocean)

When Jeanne and I started talking about the trip and we decided to do it, logistics discussions start in real quick.  It was obvious to fly to the east coast with bikes and do the trip, renting car from Albany to visit friends, then bike as we did to Washington D. C., but J. R. thought why not enjoy the area between.  Skipping over all that country just seems wasteful.  (Never mind reality) I checked on train which would be fun but several days and expensive.  Why not drive?  Jeanne immediately said no – she is not into road trips as much as I am.  But after she thought about it why not.  We could ride bikes a bit every day, and carry all our stuff ( more than we would ever carry on bike), so she said yes.

Well did not work out exactly as planned as more cold, rainy, and we forgot it gets dark early this time of year and camping would be 12 hour nights.  We are spoiled in Alaska with camping – no dark.

Now that the trip is almost over my thought is “It is easier to think about driving cross country than actually driving cross country”.  Duh!!!!

But it has been awesome.  Got to see places one would normally just fly over and not realize it is home and happiness to a lot of people. It is good to see that.  These places makes the world tick.

Biking was fun, although flat, but that presented different challenges.  Mud, rain, carrying minimal amount.  It worked.  Nice to see how other areas deal with bicycles.

and an important lesson, what you pay for a motel has nothing to do with quality. You do not always get what you pay for. Our worst was the most expensive and best was one of the cheapest. And often mom & pop motels often do not replace mattresses as often as they should.

On to the next trip