“Man did not weave the web of life; he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web he does to himself.”

Chief Seattle

My sister has not been to visit us since about 2021, although we have seen each other, numerous times during that time . This year they decided to come visit in Alaska. Yeah! Exciting! Hence we feel the need to show them Alaska, although they have been here several times.

For the first couple days just sit back and relax, just enjoying the company of each other. Somehow over time I have lost the urge to constantly be going going going. I gave up lists of things I want to do because the list never gets shorter. Each item checked off seems to add a minimum of two more items. And as the Spanish proverb says “there is nothing better than doing nothing, then nap after”. Fear of missing out (FOMO) does not apply. Just enjoy the company.

But that does last only so long, one must move about and explore. Hence we are in McCarthy Alaska. Drove here yesterday, a 310 mile (500 k) drive. 8 hours, with the last 60 miles (100 k) gravel. Always a question when last graded as the washboard can be extreme and 10 mph max. They had just graded the road a week or two ago which also means freshly cut gravel, which one piece managed to pierce our tire. Crazy that modern cars have either no spare or a “donut” tire. Ours has a donut but our history with either is tenuous.

Ok what a day. Took the shuttle van the 5 miles ( 8 k) up to town of Kennicott . This is the area of kennicot mine and was one of the largest copper mines in the world and the where the start of the Kennicott company began. Currently the area is within the Wrangell St Elias National Park and the mine area administered by the park service.

Jeanne first visited McCarthy in 1982 the first year she was here. I first visited probably about 1989. We have had a few visits since, always memorable. My friend Zak and I did an awesome hike in the backcountry in about 2018 or 2019 (goat trail). Jeanne and I coming here during covid time. Both trips involved spectacular back country mountain flying. The Wrangell mountains not only have some of the biggest mountains in North America but are spectacular and remote.

In December of 1983 Jeanne was working triage in the emergency room at night in Anchorage. A fellow came in with belly pain , having hitchhiked the 300 miles from McCarthy in December. It was a quiet night so she spent hours talking with him about life in remote alaska. 3 months later he was 1 of 6 people who survived a mass shooting. Just happenstance they had dropped their mail with a friend to send on the mail plane coming in on the once a week mail delivery. Someone else was also waiting and shot 8 people, of which only 2 survived, as they were to meet the weekly mail plane. 5 other people were gone on various trips and did not meet the mail plane. That was the entire winter population of McCarthy in 1983.

Ok back to today and we were talking with a seasonal park employee and Jeanne asked about a fellow she once knew who had survived the shootings. Turns out he owns one of 2 restaurants here. Tonite we had dinner with him. Small world. We have travelled in different worlds and circles, but been within convergences numerous times. He knows our friend Geoff in Utqiagvik having dog sledded across the top of North America. One never knows where one’s path will lie.

But back to today and the visit to Kennicott. Did a delightful hike to an overview of the root glacier. Then signed up for a Tour of the mill. The park service has gone in and partially restored the 100 year old 14 story wood building where the mine brought the ore from the hills above. Jeanne and I had in years past, before the park service, gone into the delapidated and falling apart building exploring, which was fascinating but we had no explanations of the processes of refining the ore for transport via train the 167 miles to Cordova on the coast where it was transported to Tacoma Washington for final refining.

The mine was discovered in basically 1901 and a railroad took 6 years to build. The land rights, as they were, were made and the mine began operation in 1911. In 1938 the sudden decision was made to close and with literally within hours the last train left and Kennicott became a ghost town. It was again “discovered” in the 1950’s and in about 1988 National Geographic did a story about the town.

We learned much of the history of the mine today from our tour guide. The park service has gone into the mill and created a “safe” walkway down the 14 story refining mill and our guide gave a wondrous dissertation of the refining process and history.

After the dinner and during the walkabout town (5 minutes max end to end) we discovered our tire had been repaired (for a minor fortune) but recommend it serve as only an emergency for the emergency donut tire. We are in a bind. More to come!

Ok onward no reception, or very spotty. Yesterday we arose early expecting to take a long time on the drive to Glenallen. Somehow we managed to get a friend to go to our house and pull out the stored 4 stored winter tires, get them to the only shuttle bus from Anchorage to McCarthy, by 7:45 am. They would drop the tires off at the only tire auto shop in Glenallen, who we had not yet been able to contact. After 9 am we were able to contact them once we had cell service.

Again, cell service is very dicey. Turns out ATT does not cover the area of McCarthy hence we were using Verizon of my sister’s mobile phone. Big business kindergartners cannot learn to share. Irritating! and very little reception along the road back to Chitina.

We shuttled and hiked our bags to where car parked. (Road stops about a kilometer before town due to Kennicott River. Formerly, there was a hand tram for crossing but now a pedestrian bridge. Arrived at car and as the tire repair fellow said tire was repaired, but appeared even with repair to have a bit of a bubble. It looked as an emergency tire to the emergency donut tire. Had placed the donut on the rear in case of a blow out, and we began, the 59 miles (99k) of gravel road to chitina and the 70 miles( 115k) to Glenallen and the tire repair place. We did it in 6 hours due to did not want to speed on the donut tire which is rated for a max of 50 miles (80 k). But we did it.

Arrived at 2 pm and proceeded to wait until they could fit us in. Tires arrived from Anchorage a few minutes after we did, so all good. At 5 pm tires repaired, threw the bad tire away (after spending $325 to repair it to emergency standard). The tire shop said we could leave the 3 good tires out front to be picked up by friends, Zak and Natasha, who would be returning from a trip to Valdez in a few days. Placing three tires in our car would have cramped our driving quarters. The mechanic said the bad tire had an excellent repair but would not have lasted. We were lucky.

On to Valdez via beautiful Thompson pass. I believe someone spilled the green pigment and all the plants were in glory.

Arrive Valdez at 8. Zak and Natasha met us after a day of climbing and utilized the shower in our motel room, dinner, sleep and up early to catch ferry to Whittier at 5:30 am.