24 October 2014 123 kilometer temp in low to mid 40s

There are no easy days on the Andes trail!
Rob ( coowner of Bike-Dreams)

I confess a bit of a boring day. Long straightaways up to 25 kilometers, gentle hills, nice mountains to the sides but desert on valley floor. Went through 4 liters water by camp arrival at 3 pm and cannot seem to get enough in since. Thinking today, this is getting boring, just peddling. Well finished the last 10 kilometers with some serious uphill climbs in canyons which magnified the heat. But pretty.

That final 10 kilometer headed west off of route 40 which runs at base of the Andes for the length of Argentina. But we are on a Andes trail and mountains, so tomorrow back to the hills again. Climb all day back up to 2800 meters from our current 1000 meters. Should be cooler, which I will enjoy. The heat is getting me. Will be nice to pull out sleeping bag again. Have just been using the sleep sheet for past week.

Nice camp here. Creek running by and first thing I did was walk right in after removing phone, wallet and shoes. Very nice to just sit in the water about waist deep. After about 15 minutes went to my luggage and removed the one beer I had saved and returned to the water.

The canyon here is narrow and steep walled. The road above for tomorrow is carved out of cliff side with large rock walls made to reinforce the road. And a babbling brook next to my tent for sleeping.

San Jose de Jacal to Tocota. 132 kilometer 1900 meter climb

Well that does not sound too bad as a title for today, but I spent a lot of day trying to think of a title. Titles thought of were”tales of the worlds slowest bike rider” or “why”.

It was probably the worst and hardest day for me. Berry mentioned it was definitely in top 5 and before I joined they had some rough days. Everyone agrees the final 35 kilometers was worst road yet. Soft gravel required a lot of walking and was just plain miserable. As per usual I was thinking I cannot do this, it is way above my level, abilities, and enjoyment. But as usual on arrival in camp everyone stated the same or nearly so.

First part of day was good, with mostly gentle climbing up through incredible canyons then rounded a corner and I thought I had arrived at lake Powell in southern Utah. But no stopping as a big day and a long way to go. Did stop in town of Rodeo where lost Berry, Cristen, Knut, and Hilde. But stopped for ice cream although no soda. After continued to kilometer 82 and lunch and somewhere had jumped ahead of most arriving about 11:30. Hardy said I was time warped. After lunch I put my helmet back on and it felt like a bucket of water poured on me from the sweat in sweat bands.

Departed and on through Iglesias and continued a nice ride but as left pavement Rob passed me and asked if I had enough water as none ahead. Yes had refilled at lunch 1 1/2 liter in camelback camera bag ( no pictures today as long day). And two bike bottles of 500 ml each.

Well the gravel road was nice for about 5 k then went soft and washboards. Had to occasional get off and walk and spent a lot of time going back and forth on road trying to find something rideable for more than 10 meters. Speed was down to about 8 kph and still 30 kilometers to go. It was still uphill. I was ready to quit and am talking about the ride. Just did not have strength to ride this. And the temperature was about 42-43 Celsius. I was going through my water. Met Jon Willan fixing his 4th flat of the day. He had taken Mario’s tires when Mario left and they were too light for this ride. Terry and Berry caught us and the three of them rode on, but a few kilometers later I caught Berry standing beside his bike letting out a series of expletives. Keep in mind he is from Australia and I learned some new expletives and combinations. Finally he said standing there was not getting us to camp and we had 25 k to go. Onward we trudged. Sweat was poring off me.

Lunch truck passed full of people and I said I was ok. As soon as they left I wondered if I had made a bad decision. Barry voiced the same, but too late. We rode on, later seeing a mirage on up the road. We questioned it but it was the truck broken down leaking diesel fuel. Barely made the truck with no water and refilled drinking a full liter while restocking. They did repairs and moved on as did we.

The truck return about an hour later and again I refilled with water. They were going back to offer ride to the4-5 still behind me.

Finally made camp barely, after a 7:30 am depart and arrival at 6 pm. 10 hours in the saddle. Too long. But all out to cheer arrival, Buck keeping me from falling into the mini cathedral I had stopped at. Seems everyone was exhausted and had same experiences. Rien and I had a talk about the day and he mentioned those earlier riders were stronger and could power through the road. I consider him probable the best rider here. He is amazing to watch him power up a hill.

And Rob one of directors of Bike-Dreams said at evening briefing. “Tocota is a place no one in the world has ever heard of and we will never forget it”. Very true. It is a town of two or three houses and a police station. We are camped on the ground of the police station. There are 4 of them and they cover a vast area here by horse, mostly looking for poachers of Vicuña.

And at 2800 meters elevation and cooler. Will need to pull out sleeping bag. And before sleep I must stretch the muscles. Legs go into sleeping bag and extend all the way out at which time I will fall asleep.

26 October 2014 Tocota. – Barreal 129 kilometer

“You are on the right track baby
You were born this way”
Lady Gaga

Well another day and again it proved different. Everyone a bit concerned about road down from Tocota but figured it was more used and no heavy trucks so maybe not like yesterday. Proved awesome for me, many did not like it but it reminded me of powder skiing. Go fast let gravity provide the speed and hence the power. Only a 2% slope but just right. Gravel and it did throw you around and required route finding on road.

For whatever reason it felt great to me and started down catching and passing many finding myself soon near the front and the racers. But then a few picture ideas popped into my head. Then back on bike at end of pack and off again flying by people wondering what was going on. Did they not realize speed was the key as it provided the power to get through the soft stuff. But I admit control was at the edge. Just like powder skiing, let gravity provide the power and fly.

I also put on music which I rarely do as I consider it a distraction and dangerous to ride with. The playlist I chose was the one I call ski jumping as all the songs remind me of ski jumping.

One note as cruising along there were soft spots as on the road yesterday which tended to stop one or definitely slow one down. Today was different as going 20-30kph instead of 7. Must be what it feels like to hit the runaway ramp on a steep hill with no brakes. Just trust the bike and ride it out. I figure I must have learned something from all the snow biking I do.

The day flew by and before I knew it was on pavement still downhill for another 30 k and lunch at 85 k. It was a 60 kilometer downhill run. Back at about 1400 meters elevation. Lunch in the plaza at Calingasta then 40 k to end. And it was a hot ride, slowing ascending a wide river valley. Snow covered peaks with glaciers to the west and a red muddy river flowing. Hardy’s bike thermometer was reading 45. I was cycling along but slow at 17 kph listening to music and heard yelling and screaming. It was Buck, Cristen, and Hilde at a rest stop. I pulled in and joined Marias and Hannie for a soda. Another soda. But it was so good. I had been looking but everything closed. Revitalized me and took off cruising at 24 enjoying the ride again. Reached green trees a short time later. And town of Barreal reaching municipal campground 8 k later.

And on arrival usual soup, fresh fruit, bread , chips, and cold water. Watermelon never tasted so good as I sat down for two bowls of divine pasta soup. And the watermelon was the old fashion kind with seeds. Incredible. Then lots of chips with their salty goodness as Michelle says. A shower and beer. Then charging implements as is everyone else: garmin GPS units, phones, laptops, cameras, batteries and implements of modern life. Bike cleaning oiling, tire checks. Numerous flat tires today. Jon Willan with record of 10 past two days. Apparently only about 10 people have had no flats as yet. I have tubeless and very happy with it.

And thinking I should go socialize but much to do. Shower, clean, transfer pictures to iCloud even though no wifi. Talking with Buck it is always busy. I think of the great divide and it’s motto of eat sleep ride. This is almost more so. Would be nice to stop and enjoy some of the sights along the way, but a schedule is required if we are to make Ushuaia. Hannie and Marias mentioned everyone must be a bit masochistic for this ride. Maybe true. Then I think this is only 20 miles per day more than Joe and I did on the divide. And have only done 22850 meters of climbing (75000 feet) which is far less than the divide thus far. Admittedly the heat is hurting. We never had 40’s but high 30’s. This is definitely harder though.

Whatever, I am still having a good time in a weird way. And feeling like I am accomplishing something. I find that weird. I have not cured cancer and solved the problem of Israel and Palestine, but perhaps just seeing a different world accomplishes something. (I am assuming Israel and Palestine have not reconciled during my absence.)

And it is the 27th of October and sitting in a gas station which has wifi. Marginal, but wifi. Will try and post this and hope not to bad. Good day today gentle up then 35 k of gravel which was very washboardy but if you push one can ignore the vibrations. Then downhill. Only 5 1/2 hours in the saddle today.

And along the way checked out some stairs to nowhere but was an overlook to an old inca site. Met a nice couple touring Argentina by truck. He from Buenos Aires and she from Vladivostok. Now time to return to camp for dinner.

Why suffer a little, when you can suffer a lot”
Jeff Dusenberry

Awoke in apartments to a very light drizzle and much to everyone’s consternation there was definitely more snow on mountains to the south. I was excited to see snow, apparently I am weird. Those peaks are over 6000 meters and we definitely were not going that high. The climbs for the day would take us just over 2000 meters.

The instructions for the day were unclear as there was construction and unsure if trucks could pass or if we might have to wait for some blasting. Bring extra water. Then there was an option for two different routes to begin. The regular route which was shown and listed on directions but the elevation profile was not included. The directions said the summit was at 17.5 but the elevation profile showed that as low point of day.

And told when we arrive at Villa Union wait at gas station on corner which was probably closed as not sure which ways the trucks would come.

Of course I chose the extra course up the climb which was 10 k longer and unknown climb, which turned out to be a 750 meter climb. Whew. A nice descent although worried about a rattling on bike. Worried about a catastrophic failure and stopped several times to find it, without success. Finally on next climb it was the air pump not completely tightened. Safe!

Next climb over the construction. Very nice climb, riding with Brigit, topping out about 1:30 with 65 kilometer to go. As we descended we could feel it getting hotter. From 2050 meters down to 1000. Very much looking forward to finish. Arrived Villa Union intersection and no one there. Garmin said go right but it has steered me wrong too many times. Paper instructions said go straight. Asked some folks standing around if red truck came through. Yes it went straight ahead. Did bicycles go by? Yes. Keep in mind my Spanish is almost non existent. The conversation lasted 5-10 minutes and I have no idea what was said.

As Brigit and I had a bit of water left we followed the paper directions which were go straight for 23 k to bush camp. 15 k later we questioned it and stopped a recreational cyclist but other than a lot of Spanish and there was a police station in another 35 kilometer we got no where, but thanked him. I tried stopping a couple cars but no one stopped, finally Brigit stood in middle of road and car with 4 guys stopped. They said they had seen no one camping ahead but there were two heavily loaded bicycles ahead but that was all. We turned around, met Lucho coming up trail and Walter and Annalot in truck all looking for us. We figured they would be as it was almost 6 and we had been on road for 10 hours. Most arrived at 2.

And riding back Brigit and I reviewed the wonderful things of day: no rain, beautiful scenery, nice company, good climbs,(1967 meters of climbing). Nice descents, and a beautiful snow covered peak which turns out is 18th highest in South America. 6200 meters.

So as Brigit and I returned to camp in town folks said oh sorry you got lost. I had to correct them and say it was them that were lost as we knew where we were. We had followed directions but well that did not work out.

And it is hot most enjoying it, but sweating like crazy. Have not used sleeping bag in a week just the sheet. And new sun screen today but burned arms.

And sorry but no pictures. Have to transfer from camera to iPad and that takes time, then choose for here. It is time for bed. We are in a gas station campground and as usual wifi is very iffy. And another apology as I am going to try and post without editing. Not good, but exhausted and 6 am comes soon and 50 degrees expected tomorrow with a 50 degree day.

Apartments with 4 of us in room. Quite ok by me. Buck, Terry, Berry, and myself. A nice evening in town as it arose from Siesta. Ate a huge meal then a huge ice cream cone.

This am coffee (Starbucks Via) emergency stash, then cab ride into town square for breakfast on sidewalk watching the world go by.

Word of warning or advice for those visiting here. Do not expect American feeding habits. There is not a rush. 1/2 hour to place order, then an hour or so to get the order, then eat and relax after. Seems status quo. And very nice with time to visit and enjoy.

After it was time to cross the street and see the plaza which was busy with people wandering, sitting, visiting, and whatever. Streets were busy. But alas lunch time and another sidewalk cafe. Steak with papa fritas (French fries). Could not get a dark beer as ordered but settled for a Budweiser. Finally heat building up and time to return to apartment, but first some beers and snacks for afternoon. Uh oh it was 1:30 and I looked up; square was empty, streets quiet and market probable closed. Quickly got a quick market as they were closing and we caught a cab. Afternoon heat rest catch up on this blog and pictures as internet mostly working.
Annalot

Futzed with bike clean, add fluid to tires (no tubes).

Music sitting around legs not spinning, charge batteries.

Now clean up for another trip into town. Tomorrow back to work heading south towards Mendoza, about 700 kilometers and 6 days away. A fair amount of off road, so should be interesting.

Hoping all is well wherever you are and life is treating you as you wish it should.

Great rest day 15 minutes of work to do and accomplished 14.5 minutes of it. Now I must rest. Salta is an interesting town although another city. Nice plaza although not the nicest we have seen. Good restaurants, WIFI not so great but have a great pastry shop just outside of campground which works well and good coffee. It is hot. Took a shower and still came out sweating.

Paradise is not where you go but how you feel for one moment of your life.
Anonymous

One never really knows how things will turn out. Perhaps an open mind to the possibilities is needed. Yesterday’s ride was expected to be hard especially after the prior days ride into the wind. Yesterday’s was 122 kilometers and 1250 meters of climbing. Two big climbs. We were a bit intimidated but all left cycling except Buck who is still recovering from shoulder injury.

I had decided if the wind was not blowing I would just ride at the pace I felt. Was good but of course most left me after 20 k which was ok. The remainder passed when I stopped beside the road for toilet. (Never any peace and quiet). But a most pleasant ride slowly climbing a gradual slope then a long gradual downhill through a few villages. Almost stopped at one roadside stand for fresh empanadas but persevered on. Lunch truck at bottom of second climb. Several folks said the ride was like riding through the southern French countryside. I must try that sometime as it was beautiful. Still a bit early in the spring but the leaves are coming out and road great. Road was 4 meters in width, enough room for a car and bike, but this is a two way road. Freeway lanes in the United States are 12 feet wide for reference, about 3 1/2 meters. But not a lot of traffic and the trees were amazing. Big trees with epiphytes growing on several, and big vines hanging down. Sort of jungle like but seemed more like California scrub country. Hard to describe but it was pleasant. David from England and I just cruised along till the top then 30 kilometers to Salta, stopping at a country park with lake, swimmers, tables and people out enjoying the day. We had the usual snack of ice cream and soda for energy to finish the ride. Then on to the city where instructions were take bike lane which we could not find so rode the freeway into town, then through the city center and our municipal campground on south end of town.

Salta is a city of about 500,000 and a bit busy although apparently we arrived on a holiday. Folks were sitting in lawn chairs all along the sidewalk (on the shady side) just siting and enjoying the afternoon. Businesses were all closed but expected to open again In the evening.

Campground has what must be the largest swimming pool in world. Empty of course, who knows why, but it must cover 20 acres at a minimum. Took James several minutes to do a lap on the bike. Most of us set up tents at the edge although the sun was intense yesterday. Good for solar charging batteries. Temps probably in mid 30’s. Since losing my odometer I have no thermometer. The campground was not the most inviting although the showers were hot. First time I have had to turn on cold water to mix, although here a cold shower would not have been bad. Several folks though have opted to find hotel rooms in town as it is a rest day. I do not mind camping, hence staying in campground in tent. For most of the two rest days we are on our own for food. And campground will do laundry.

Bike dreams gave a party last evening with a barbecue to celebrate the trips half way point (I am only 1/3 done) several folks are leaving mostly to return to jobs. Toos and Teo, David, Patrick, Mario, (who joined in Cusco with me), Elizabeth, and Maria, From Barcelona, who is not officially here but came with Robert, one of our drivers. She has been a great addition and we will all miss her smiling face and personality. But then all the people are wonderful and it was sad to say goodbye. I have mentioned I am in awe of these folks and their abilities. They have all taught me so much about riding whether in actual comments or through example. Mario who joined with me and we learned together to be with an established group. I think I felt close to him as we would often end up riding together. In our parting he mentioned how I was a strong rider, which made me feel great. I have never considered myself such, but I guess I survived the windy day with the pelaton.

Our group is devoted to the ride, and not much time to really socialize as we arrive in the afternoon, eat, set up camp or room, eat again and go to bed. Last night though we cranked up the music, mostly 80’s disco stuff which no one really liked but good to dance to. Occasionally some AC/DC or such, but a good time was had by all, although I guess there was one incident after I retired. Alas not all is a bed of roses. There are some very diverse personalities amongst us as with any group large group.

And a group of 14-16 year old girls came up yesterday in the afternoon to talk. (Remember my Spanish is almost nonexistent. Pantomime is great! ). They were on 3 day bus tour discussing domestic violence with their moms. The mom’s wanted to know why our stomachs were flat and their men’s bellies were round. But dancing and partying all around. Their bus had broken down and waiting for repairs. We could bounce back and forth from party to party.

Took the bus Into the city center this am in search of wifi, SIM cards for our phones, and food. One cannot use our usual phone card as way to expensive so just purchase a card to insert and get local rates. Problem is I have no idea what I got. I think I got two months worth of phone, text, data, internet for 55 pesos about $20. Reality is very different as used to unlimited but this is only 1.5 mB per day. That is one picture barely. Now I can use the phone as a hotspot and download this blog as long as not too lengthy.

Cafés had lousy wifi although food was good. Salta is definitely westernized, but as David pointed out yesterday we have gone from the poorest country in South America to the richest. Quite a change. Finally ended up at McDonalds because, as is Starbucks, it is noted for free internet and good coffee. Alas batteries almost dead and only two outlets and one in use and no internet at the remaining plugin. So back and forth. Just nice to communicate with the world I know. Finally enough of the city so caught a taxi back to campground with Marias and Hannie. And cabs here have meters hence no bartering before you get in. Western ways.

Now just sitting here with batteries, phone, iPad and camera batteries charging on light pole outlet. Barry brought over a beer ( a full liter) and discussing traveling about the world and how one becomes settles into a regular existence. Soon one year leads to another and soon time has passed. Our lists of things to see and do grows longer and the time remaining shorter. And with that perhaps it is time to go find some dinner.

And so goes our first rest day in Salta. Tomorrow I put on my new odometer purchased today and grease the bottom bracket bearing. 2000 kilometers thus far in a month. Every day we head south on a most interesting ride. As with the great divide. Eat sleep ride and repeat. As it have noted several times I am awed and honored to be able to do this. As Rob from bike dreams said a few days ago “there are no easy days on the Andes Trail” and I am finding that true. But then if it was easy where would be the challenge. Risking oneself is to risk failure but not risking or trying is to fail.

Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.
Paulo Coelho
Kept the bathroom door closed and room door open as our bathroom smelled of poo in the hotel in Tupiza . They had come by to clean it several times but the odor returned within a few hours.

But slept good and up for breakfast at 7, but all seats and more important coffee cups taken so a while for breakfast to get going. I ended up with just 1/2 cup cold coffee, a roll and jam, and of course banana. But morning briefing covered apparently there was a change in the reciprocity for for Argentina. Bike dreams in original information said no visa was required but a reciprocity fee was charged on arrival at airports, but not if one arrived by land. Apparently this had recently changed and the paper had to be obtained prior to crossing border. Only applied to U.S., Canadian, and Australian citizens. Most already had as paper good for ten years and they had previously been in Argentina. Or like Buck they checked elsewhere for Info.

So I immediately went to hotel computer as wifi was incredibly slow. Thus on a Spanish computer with pictures of the continents instead of letters on the keyboard I applied for the paper. Took a bit but after $160 plus a $40 service fee they emailed the reciprocity fee paper in PDF format. Just print it. Yeah, right. First the computer I was on could not connect to printer, so hotel called in someone who could use hotel printer. Tried emailing the PDF to his computer from my phone, but wifi too slow. Could not get my mail on his computer. Finally put PDF in iBook format and plugged phone into his computer which printed the one page.

Meanwhile I keep calling it a visa and Max is insistent it is not a visa but a reciprocity fee. Finally when printed it said visa fee paid, and I was able to gloat. I was in no mood for semantics. I was stewing about this and realized politics is the art of getting someone else to pay for others not being able to get along.

Meanwhile everyone was ready to go. My bike was two blocks away yet and went to recover it. Michelle had gone and was bringing it to me knowing my frustration. Unfortunately the odometer was missing. A very nice thing to have as use for following the written directions. Go to roundabout at 63.6 kilometers and turn left, go .7 kilometer and turn right and so on. I still have GPS with route but always nice to have a backup system.

Pumped up the tires as on pavement today, get Walter to get water out as he had already put it away, throw what I had into pack realizing rain coat was in day bag packed away so hope for no rain.

Off everyone went and once on the bike it was pleasant. Road a delightful canyon going along a river gradually descending to 2700 meters above sea level, having to stop once in a while for pictures.

Then the climb back to 3400 meters and back on the altoplano. The climb was not too bad but it was hot, too hot for me. Everyone excited about getting to the heat but the mid 20’s are great for me. Does not get hotter than that in Anchorage and then too hot. Most on this trip believe the 30’s and into 40’s are great. As noted most have been on the tour of Africa where temperatures in the low 50’s were common. I had finished my 3 liters of water half way up hill, but survived to lunch truck at top of hill.

And a real pick me up when Hannie came up and said her bike was working perfectly for the first time in a month. The front derailleur had refused to get in the small chain ring. Lucho our mechanic had looked at it several times replacing cables and adjusting this and that. Yesterday I had offered to just take a look. Apparently I had fixed it, and it made my day. Something was going right. I felt like I could do something right.

Then a fairly pleasant 50 kilometer ride to the border. I was thinking that by the end of the day I am exhausted and wondering what the heck I am doing here. These folks are way above my league, as I ride along in near last place alone. Today only Dave from England is behind me. Then I remember this happens every afternoon, but when I awake in the morning I am excited to go.

Made the border town in Bolivia and had been told to change money before crossing. Apparently two systems of money exchange in Argentina. The official rate is 8.5 pesos the U.S. Dollar, but there is a “green” market which is 12-14pesos to the dollar. It is not a black market as somewhat sanctioned. I got 13.2 pesos to the dollar. Of course the U.S. Dollars must be fresh and crisp. One $50 bill I had was refused because of a 1/8″ tear. At home would not even think of it.

Border crossing relatively easy stand in this queue to check Bolivian papers, then stand in Argentina queue for checking the reciprocity paper and check passport and stamp it. Then back to bike and cross with a picture of Ushuia 5210 kilometers sign. We are not going direct there, but that is final destination two months from now. Turned around and took picture of border, but guard yelled at me saying no photos.

On to the hotel and the usual question of what will this one be like. So far ok water almost hot and a bidet. But then the question of where to eat. Had not seen any likely places coming in. Hotel restaurant looked ok but did not open until 8 pm, normally in bed by then. Told Buck my concerns about feeling end of day. He called me on it and informed me I was fully capable. Sometimes I wonder.

Hannie and Marias and I went out to search for a restaurant about 6 but only found 2, neither looked promising, but our only choices. Worked out ok. I ordered something I had no idea what, but did include beef. Turned out a thin piece of beef covering plate covered with melted cheese, which was covered with a piece of ham with a fried egg on top. This was not Bolivia which was either pasta or a pizza. And of course the usual side of French fried potatoes. Also nice to be with Europeans who eat their fries with mayonnaise. Somehow I picked up that habit when an exchange to Germany in 1967.

But came out of restaurant about 8:30 and the activity level had definitely picked up. Argentina operates late. Buck arrived in truck about 2 and went to barber but closed until 6pm. The barber was a busy place a 9 pm. There were over a dozen restaurants to choose from. Whereas all had been closed in the afternoon and shut down, at 9 pm the streets were hopping with activity.

And this is last hotel for 2 weeks. Bush camps and camping. The difference is bush camps have no facilities