In seeking truth you have to get both sides of the story.

Walter Cronkite

Oh my gosh. I have an additional must do thing before you die. This train the “coastal starlight” is amazing. It is our last train finishing this little circumnavigation and it is great. I had seen pictures of it along the coast but reality is always different. About Ventura, California we arrived and cruised for hours along the coast. The Pacific Ocean was calm but even so, surfers, picnickers,walkers bikers all enjoying the day.

Great to see as we move north the variety of farming. During this trip we have had wheat, corn, soybeans, cotton, sugar cane, pecans, and then in California lots of green fields of who knows what, lettuce, strawberries, grapes, oranges, I suspect alfalfa. Lots of unknown as there are no signs along the way.

The Backing up a bit in time, to Los Angeles, we had thought it would be just a 3 hour layover and change trains from the “sunset limited” from Tucson to the coastal starlight. We arrived 1/2 hour early so 5 am and a 09:51 departure. Dropped our bags in lounge and I went for a walk. 2 days before the Los Angeles dodgers won the World Series, and they arrived home to celebrate. Seems there was to be a parade and people were arriving to begin festivities at 6 am. People arriving on trains and heading to dodger stadium.

And several parks in area with dia de Los mujertos tributes. Then oliveras street an old section of LA with numerous vendors, only a few open but very crowded with morning revellers wanting breakfast. Lots of good energy.

Back to the station and our last breakfast burrito. Onto the train enjoying the graffiti and travels north.

Our last night on board and had the usual gyrations, and stretches into awkward positions achieving a great night of sleep. Awoke in the dark, but figured sunrise would be soon, so gyrate from bunk down to the observation car. Mt Shasta soon appeared. Then into snow and tall rainy trees in Oregon.

What have I learned? What was best? Would I do it again? Good questions and without answers. I have answers but they only apply to this particular moment and not in half hour. Ask me then!

We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started, and know the place for the first time

T.S. Elliot

A wondrous ride into Tucson, continuing through the Chiahuahuan desert and now into the Sonoran desert, arriving 15 minutes early and our friends just arriving same time. A drive to their beautiful home purchased a few years ago. They had lived in Alaska for years but time to become snowbirds. Camille more than Joe. He loves it here year round, Camille loves it in winter but the heat bothers her. Alas I do believe there is no perfect place. Tucson’s personality seems to be desert, although people have not necessarily adapted to the desert. They still maintain a daytime routine standard american life. But it is beautiful.

Their home is delightful, roomy and a backyard landscaped as all yards here in desert motive. They removed the scrub when moved in and planted a variety of cactus and plants. There is a patio in the back which is incredible for looking at stars, the sky, and sitting and drinking coffee in the morning watching and feeling the sunrise. Sunrise over the Rincon mountains to the east, with blasts of the first sun onto the Santa Catalinas and Mt Lemon, rising 9170 feet above sea level. (2795 meters). Sunset show alpenglow over the Catalinas. I love it, with desert down here.

And in true American style the home owners association spends its time worrying what other people do. Joe and Camille have received a notice their blue painted door does not fit the color scheme. They put a screen door up which semi hides the blue. Then they received a notice they had weeds in the ravel in front yard. The weeds seem to be local wildflowers, but obviously unacceptable, thus Joe took a weed burner to them. Unfortunately the flame touched the saguaro and a streak now runs up one side. Then while we were there they received a notice that second 3 meter saguaro which had blown over in a wind storm was unacceptable. It was tipped at a 45 degree angle. Nice to have people worry about what you do.

I feel like I am getting my desert time while here. I walk about and feel like I am hovering over a coral reef, discovering the numerous numbers of plants and signs of animals, but I do not have to be below the surface of the water.

Monday, Camille had made reservations at the mirror lab, no one really sure why the mirror lab was. I thought being around halloween a house of mirrors. Au contraire! It was the most amazing place ever, and possibly the highlight of trip for me. Turns out the University of Arizona is one of the leading universities exploring the universe, cosmology, astronomy and such. The mirror lab is making the the mirrors for some of the largest telescopes made, including the 24 meter Magellan telescope to be place near the Atacamba desert in Chile. We had a 2 hours tour starting with a lecture of its history and the process of making an 8 meter mirror with a reflective surface within 3-5 nanometers discrepancy. As they noted your fingernails have grown more than that in the time you have read this paragraph. As it happens I have been reading a Scientific American magazine about black holes and the current knowledge theories, and it includes the physical entities of that exploration which includes the upcoming Magellan telescope. I was fascinated. Someday we may know where we came from and where we are going.

During the time here I have had yet another birthday celebration. I try to avoid them because apparently my grandparents died of too many birthdays, but people insist on celebrating. I am now old enough to not count in years but centuries, hence I am 3/4 old.

The rest of time we spent here with our friends delighting in their yard and house, and going hiking or biking every day. Sometimes difficult as we tended to wait until noon or so and hot, alas we cannot change our ways. But delightful hikes and bikes, interspersed with incredible meals.

And so we are moving on. A yet another delightful meal with Joe and Camille and drop us off at train, where we just walked on. It was dark so not much to see except lights of the freeway . Arrived here in Los Angeles for a 4 hour layover, before catching the “coast starlight” train to Portland where we began a few weeks ago. The tv here in lounge is giving us updates on freeway conditions and preparations for today’s parade of baseball team LA dodgers. Fortunately it starts 2 hour after our departure, but despite the darkness we can her the helicopters, and cars prepping.

Man may turn which way he please, and undertake anything whatsoever, he will always return to the path which nature has prescribed for him.

Goethe

Arrived a bit early, 45 minutes, at 12:30 am, and though only 0.8 mile (1.1 k) middle of night, unsure of what neighborhoods we would walk through. Got ripped off by a cab driver who charged $15 saying it was standard downtown rate.

Had the night and first part of day to ourselves so caught up on sleep, (finding the train a bit difficult to sleep), a great breakfast at hotel, and off to the famous San Antonio River walk. It proved delightful although after the sidewalks and streets of New York, Washington DC, and New Orleans, rather narrow but very nice. Turns out San Antonio is 64% Hispanic and Halloween a big deal. Not the Halloween as in the United States, but Dia De Los Mujertos, the day of the dead , the celebration of one’s ancestors. Obviously a big deal, and they have moved the holiday to this weekend and next weekend, and I assume as well as the real holiday on 1 November. They have a parade and downtown river walk, and the sidewalk was lined with folding chairs for selling seats to the parade. We just walked up the river about a mile and back. Quite a delightful urban environment. Built over the last one hundred years or so to combat flooding, but has turned into a real treat in the city.

Was talking with Jeff, our nieces husband about cities and personalities. As noted prior, many do have a particular personality. In New Orleans, our friend Judy mentioned living cities, where people actually live and work downtown. Jeff agreed, but to have a living city happen, one must have mass transit, otherwise one has to have a car and that sort of defeats the purpose of living downtown. I find that true. New York is certainly true in that aspect, and we found Chicago is that way now with its new high rises. These days rarely built for office space. Jeff noted that is a reason several cities in Texas, have little personality, people live in the suburbs, commuting into the city as necessary. Urban sprawl. The 50 mile drive from San Antonio takes anywhere from an hour to 3 hours depending on traffic. The metropolitan area of San Antonio, which includes Austin now, is the second largest metro area in the south. And Texas continues to go down that road, refusing a high speed train from Dallas to Houston, preferring to drive individual cars. Alas. Different ways of doing things. I might be a little biased.

We managed to get all seven of us to a wonderful Italian restaurant in a shopping complex. Actually centered around a grocery store with numerous restaurants about. Our niece Kathleen is very good at finding restaurants, which can cater to all our needs. Carnivores, vegetarians, vegans, and a 4 year old vegetarian, and a wide range of physical abilities. Quite the challenge, but she pulls it off. Tonight’s meal of cheese pizza, fungi pizza, spaghetti, meatballs, ragu and one of the best Caesar salads made.

Then back to hotel and walk to river walk overlook for the parade. Boats decorated with lights, bands, singers.

Next day a trip to the zoo, which as zoos goes was ok. When you have seen most of the creatures in the wild, it is painful to see them in captivity. Kangaroos and emus, lizards, big cats just lying about, which in the heat would probably be what they would be doing in the wild. At least no penguins which are criminal to put in a zoo. But the 4 year old, who declares himself an animal expert, loved it.

Return to hotel, and back to the restaurant complex this time for an amazing Mexican dinner. The waiter was so incredibly knowledgeable about all the items, and me just pointing and saying I’ll have that, plus a margarita with pepper flakes instead of salt.

Yesterday to a place for brunch instead of breakie at the hotel. Again an amazing dining experience. Huevos divorciados. We were going to try for the arboretum, but concluded the heat was too much, going instead for a beer, then goodbye to the family, and Jeanne and I were again, just us. We had the hotel for the night despite departing at 3 am, and opted to eat leftovers and watch game 2 of the World Series.

Conclusion – Will Rogers was right, San Antonio does have a personality, distinctly Hispanic and fun. No need to come back, but good memories.

Currently on train going through west Texas. For me some of the most beautiful scenery ever. I used to work for outward bound schools here, and lived, and breathed the desert for 2 1/2 years. Next to interstate highway 10, going faster than the cars.

God put me on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things. Right now I am so far behind that I will never die.

Bill Watterson

The last post hinted at the train stations of Amtrak, and I thought maybe post some pictures. Numerous stations are old from the mid 20th century, beautiful ornate buildings. Some are new but still beautiful. There are the small town ones, we did not have time to go in but looked beautiful on the outside.

And we shall see as we progress further west.

The true secret of happiness lies in taking a genuine interest in all the details of daily life

Williams morris

Not much to say about the “crescent “ train into New Orleans, except nice trip, although disappointed we slept through the appalachians. Arrive 40 minutes early and Jeanne’s friend Judy was waiting. Train station as usual is downtown and large and beautiful. Jeanne has known Judy for over 40 years beginning from their working together in Yosemite national park. They and several others developed a very tight bond that has endured over the years. (As noted in my earlier ramblings, last year, about turkey)

Along the way we have inquired with various people “why are you riding the train?” Of course everyone has their own answer, but a common theme is they just do not like to fly – not afraid to fly, but prefer being more relaxed. No getting there early, hassling with airport, ticketing, lines, security, crowds, cramped quarters, etc. and you do not get to see the country traveling over or through. All agree the train is relaxing, and you get to see the country.

One friend of mine said air travel is like a Time Machine – you go sit in a metal tube, tap your feet for a few hours, and arrive at a different place and time. But as Douglas Adams noted in “hitchhikers guide to the universe” time travel is very discombobulating on the body. (He recommended several beers and peanuts for the electrolytes, before travel)

Will Rogers, who died in 1935, apparently once said New Orleans and San Antonio had some of he best personalities of any cities in the United States. Certainly New Orleans is famous for its distinct personality. If you were blindfolded and dropped into a city, some places you would not know where you are, but New Orleans one would know.

In our research of doing this trip Jeanne was trying to figure out what to do in New Orleans. I said just walk around and that is what we did. Drove from Judy’s into the French quarter and rambled about. Immediately on arrival the stern wheeler Natchez is blasting out jazz tunes on its air horns, street bands are playing outside numerous restaurants. Lively and energetic. For me music is nice during the day. I could never be a musician with the late night hours.

Jeanne and Judy went to the old mint and jazz museum. I opted to just go sit out on street side drinking a “nutty Irish coffee”

Then on to the food. Numerous choices of a wide variety. In 2017, again with Jeanne’s Yosemite friends, we had gone to a seafood restaurant I had remembered as awesome. Thanks to the iPhone technology of geo location, I found where it was located and guided Jeanne and Judy to lunch.

Yet another delightful evening just sitting at Judy’s house reading, conversing, I got to fix some loose wiring on the roof eves, drinking wine and general enjoyment of life. A quick drive this am to train and off we go again. Judy insisted we get some beignets, (New Orleans doughnuts) for the ride. Square donuts without holes covered in powdered sugar, delivered in a paper sack overfilled with more powdered sugar.

This has been the nicest train yet. It has an observation car again and no toilet in room, hence a bit more room, although bunk is the very tight quarter one although not sleeping in it.

The Mississippi River delta was interesting with its almost swamp land. Someone said they did see an alligator. I might have seen one swimming but unsure. Arrived Houston on time and sat for an haour and half waiting for the built in fudge factor not necessary this trip. Went into the Houston station and the worst station yet. Apparently “they” tore down the beautiful union station in the 1970s, with the intention of building a better one but they forgot that part, and now have a bus terminal. We arrive San Antonio at midnight, apparently to a similar station, although they do have a very nice ornate train station to be rented out, but not for train use.

On to family in San Antonio.

Being an intellectual creates a lot of questions and no answers

Janis Joplin

A nice commuter train ride from New York cruising along, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and into Baltimore, Maryland. Delightful overnight visit with Dave and Twig in Baltimore. not a lot of time but sometimes that works best, always leaving something yet to do. They drove us through a variety of neighborhoods going for wondrous crabcakes at Koko’s bar, some state the best in Baltimore which is famous for its crab.

50 minutes to Washington DC and another Yotel hotel, 15 minute walk from union station. It turns out not only the cheapest place yet we have stayed but the best. Good coffee in the morning, just down the hall, 24/7! Room was larger than in New York, but still with the outlets and foldup, very comfortable bed. Again, not much time there as out and about.We came to explore not sit in a hotel room.

We had seen Washington D.C. a few years ago and we had seen much of what interests us, hence opted to just walk about. Have some friends here, but know they have been very busy with high end jobs, family visitors, and currently have more visitors plus 2 small child. We opted to let the young folks visit each other, and we would just walk about. Cutting through the capital grounds, headed to the Anacostia River thinking there would be a river walk along the edge. There was for part, but some parts did not, although easily wandered the streets nearby. Passed a large stadium getting ready for a soccer game. We tried tickets, but alas standing room only.

Looking for a beer after the Anacostia river joined the Potomac and entered the walkway along a slough of the Potomac, with lots of high end restaurants. Not our desire. Then a place up on second floor overlooking the slough, with boats heading in and out at sunset. The bouncer apologized as they only had beer and booze, no food. Perfect! Another block and a crab market where we got a cup of chowder each. Not very good chowder either. Shrimp chowder devoid of shrimp and the clam chowder OK, but nothing exciting, needing some spices. Then a walk back to hotel along the national mall and numerous office buildings, museums, and federal whatnots. In the end nearly 9 miles today of concrete walking.

Washingon is clean, with wide streets and as opposed to previous visits it is seemingly very quiet. But I noticed people did not seem as friendly. At our visit with Tom and Ilona in Chicago we had commented how Euopeans find America strange in that they like to say hello to each other – strangers. That would be me. Hence in New York I found people would make eye contact and acknowledge me. Here they look right through me. I am non existent. OK Jeanne finds it weird too.

Hard to say what the personality of Washington DC is. Like trying to determine the personality of Las Vegas while only going to the Las Vegas strip. But from what I saw, it is business, although whoever designed the place made wide roads, sidewalks, bike lanes. Lots of monuments, museums, and more offices. It is the capital of the United States and a lot of fascinating history.

The big museum we had not visited prior was the African American history, and Jeanne had obtained us tickets. Amazing history throughout. A couple of items struck me. Sugar and rice were big crops which helped develop our modern world with an influx of forced labor. Seems people, realized slavery was bad, but making money was more important and cheap labor was available. Whiteness was not a thing until the 1500’s when tribalism was very present but it was more religious. In Spain if you did not convert to Catholicism from Jewish or Islam, they basically killed you. Other future countries had their own tribes and cultures, often denigrating those outside their tribe, in their own way for whatever reason. Then the idea of whiteness developed. Humanity???

As with most museums , no matter how good or how much information there is my brain starts filling up at about 2 hours, and it was true for this museum. We managed three hours but in the end sort of rushed the years of 1950s to present. A very significant part of American history.

There was a section on “The Green Book”. That was a book published telling of places blacks could get fuel, spend the night, and eat in the south while driving through. During that time it apparently was very difficult, if you did not have the green book. It was published from apparently the late 1920’s until 1966. I had already had 2 trips into the south by then. One, with my uncle and cousin driving across the deep south from Georgia to California seeing the segregation in 1962 and bigotry. It left a big impression on me. The second trip was the 1965 bicycle trip starting in Philadelphia, riding through lower Pennsylvannia, into Maryland, West Virginia, Virginia and ending in Washington D.C. That trip did not have the overt segregation and discrepancy but definitely visible. Again weird. I still wonder why, and why is that celebrated as a great way of life.

Not sure about humanity?

After the museum it was again time for a beer, but definitely not New York where multitudes of storefronts offering all sorts of things. Here there were food trucks on the mall, but no beer. Stopped in at the White House visitor center to inquire where to get a beer. A block up off the constitution and Pennsylvania Avenue thoroughfares she said would be some restaurants. Yes there were restaurants, almost all high end, but we persevered as it was enroute back to our bags and union station.

Now just over half way through the trip. Twig had asked us which is best part and we could not answer. Most interesting just seeing the country. Would have been nice to see more but slept through a lot. Colombia Gorge, the Appalachians, more of the Great Lakes, but, we came to circumnavigate not stop and enjoy each locale, hence the train. Very glad we have some stops along the way. the train would be difficult just going straight through.

We ask people on the train- “Why the train?” Most we have talked to just want the experience of the train, or to see the country. One stated they like the train as do not have the patience for the troubles of flying. Each to their own reasons, all valid, all different. But as I was talking with 2 couples this morning the train is not for the weak hearted. Contorting into the bedrooms requires some finesse. The empire builder from Portland to Chicago was the only one with a lounge observation car. All have had a dining car, (food is included with sleeper accomadations), but it is busy and one can’t really hang out there. There is a cafe car, but not with the large windows. the lounge was a wonderful place to watch and talk with others, we miss it, spending more time in our roomette, feeling a bit like bad kids sent to our room. We are realizing this is a very expensive trip, why I am not sure, although half the expense is the sleeping horizontal and not in coach class. But then airline first class is also very expensive. Maybe I have gotten soft?

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No day shall erase you from the memory of time

Virgil (Seen at the 9/11 World Trade Center Memorial)

Arrived downtown Manhatten right on time at 6:30 pm and yes we knew immediately we were in New York City. Streets busy with variety of traffic, large sidewalks busy with people and seems everyone walks at least short distances, like 20 blocks to Yotel Hotel near times square.

Traffic in town has been interesting, reminds me of riding bikes in Kathmandu, Mendoza, Salta, and LaPaz. The riders I was with there, taught me it can be fun with the right attitude. Like road riding or mountain bike riding different strategies. Here there are lots of bike riders I suspect 90% are electric, due to the speeds they travel. A few pedicabs as in Chicago with music blaring. But lots of vehicles trucks, cars, buses all vying for space. As in city bike riding one must be aggressive. Generally follow the rules but stand your ground. And that includes pedestrians, which have wide sidewalks, and dedicated walk paths on the streets. It seems if you are a driver honking your horn magically makes the traffic disappear in front of you. From our pedestrian viewpoint I saw no disappearances and magic movement, but the honking went on.

People are nice, smiling and returning waves and such. Last time we were here in 2018, Jeanne exclaimed to a New Yorker ” I thought people would be more rude”. The response was ” Oh you have to go to Boston for that”. Everyone on the streets from business men in suits, to delivery people to school kids, obviously from a variety of backgrounds. I ascertained that because of the variety of clothing worn.

And an incredible diversity of people. I cannot count the number of languages I have heard and not only tourists but apparent locals. The diversity is really nice. Halloween is coming up in 2 weeks and it is obvious it is a big deal here as already people out and about in costume. Willy Wonka, captain jack sparrow, dinosaurs, witches, skeletons, plus a variety of who knows what, some of which I do not think are costumes but everyday dress. Most fascinating.

We arrived at the Yotel Hotel, where we stayed last visit because it is one of cheaper hotels in town at $400/night. And it is a techno hotel which helps with the most important aspect of life in New York City – real estate. Maybe 12 feet by 16 feet (4 meters x 5meters about), the bed is a futon and one hits the button to turn it into an incredibly comfortable bed. Lots of plugins, both electrical and devices. Check in is person less with electronic and if you have big bags a robot will store them as not much room in the “cabin”. But it is very nice.

Chose to eat at Halal food food truck outside hotel on sidewalk. They are everywhere and very good. We each had a lamb gyro to eat in room and managed to make a mess. It was so good we ate the same next day after returning from all day at the 9/11 memorial.

Subway to 9/11 memorial much easier to figure out than Chicago, although perhaps I did not give Chicago a good enough try. I checked the maps for directions and driving would take 35 minutes, walking 28 minutes, and subway 20 minutes. arrived for our tour and spent the day at the memorial including the observation deck of the new freedom tower built to replace one of the twin towers. A tour explaining a lot, and 3 hours in the museum. A defining moment in USA history. The museum and tours were rudimentary in 2018 as still ongoing development. Museum was good, large and had a large number of artifacts, and personal stories from recording made at time, Smashed fire trucks, ambulances, building and airplane pieces. The actual memorial of descending waterfall where you cannot see the bottom made from the footprint of the original twin towers.

Did a great Broadway show “Hells Kitchen” by Alicia Keys. Awesome

And today was reserved for walking the high line trail, but never made it. That is a park made from an abandoned elevated rail. 100 feet wide and 4 miles long. We had done it before and great, but alas never made it today. A day of relaxation. I got out and walked a bit marveling at how just because a store door front is small does not mean the store is small. Vertical is a dimension here. This hotel has an entry on the street level but actually is floors 4-25. Target store covered 3 stories.

One cannot say ” this is how we do it back home”, because it often will not work here. As my father used to say. ” Be careful out there, they sometimes do things different, not better not worse, just different”

A delightful dinner with the son of one of Jeanne’s cousins, and his girlfriend. Finally figuring out directions, as I am used to north, south, east, west. that seems to mean nothing here, but downtown and uptown are the directions. Times Square where we are is uptown and dinner last night downtown. A good Italian dinner although they had to interpret the Italian for us. Fried artichoke hearts, sea bass, roasted beets, amazing stuff.

He sun rises in the east

And now on to Baltimore.