Netherlands

One should measure oneself not by ones dreams but the fulfillment of those dreams.

Bike dreams
Well we departed Xanten Germany with its 4000 years of history and found ourselves back riding the dikes along the river, occasional dropping down into a village or just riding along side, every once in a while climbing back to the top.  Once I thought I would rush up and rest, while waiting for Jeanne to catch up, but alas as I hit the summit 4 or 5 meters above where we had been and looked back to begin my rest; alas there was Jeanne right behind, just cruising along without a care.  So much for rest.  

Then we noted a beer garden ahead and beside it along side the road coming up to the dike was a German flag and on the other side of the road a Netherlands flag.  The border.  Barely a line and being European Union no control between countries, but a very distinct difference.  From the beer garden we heard German being spoken and at a bench on the Dutch side three people were speaking Dutch, which we had not as yet heard.  Only a political line but things change, hard for me to describe.  I never have figured out how come there is such a distinction just with an arbitrary line.

The dikes were shall I say neater, (maybe) and the bikes changed.  German bikes were cruisers and would easily be recognized in the United States as general bikes.   The bikes in Holland for the most part were more utilitarian, no fancy lightweight things but bikes built for everyday use to and from somewhere for something, often with baskets or boxes, almost always with kickstands, and full chain guards. (Bottom and top chain protector) one sits upright.  And still a large number of e bikes with little old fat ladies roaring past us.  

Then there were the road bikes.  We saw very few in Germany but now there were pelatons of 20 or so riders racing along in a whir.  Side by side and 10-15 deep.  But the track is a two lane track and they did not slow much for oncoming traffic which scared Jeanne a bit.  I usually kept riding to the right but Jeanne usually stopped and pulled off.  They were generally flying along at speed.

passing the pelaton
 
But in general it was a delightful afternoon.  Had reservations in the city of Nijmegan through booking.com and the GPS took us winding through some narrow streets.  On arrival from the countryside we joined numerous bike riders just going wherever in the city, along the bike path beside the road next to the sidewalk.  We are learning to watch the signal lights.  There are car signals, pedestrian signals, and bike signals, of which going the same direction can all be different.  More than once we wait

then a signal for bikes to go, it turns green but the pedestrian signal does not.  And when you hit the button often it does not just wait for the car signals to clear but gives a specific right of way to bike or pedestrian.  But

we rode into town with a continuous line of bikers going here and there.  But the GPS took us to the Prikkels sign which was our hotel except this was an ice cream shop.  I went in inquiring about the hotel and it was the right place, just no hotel sign, only ice cream, so I bought an ice cream cone.  Now this is a hotel.  

Hotel Pikkels

A delightful place only open as a hotel for two months and the steepest staircases yet to the second floor.  No wasted space on staircases here. 
no wasted space on staircase
  
lots of space
  
room with a view
 
   And another delightful evening wandering about and another superb meal.  Is there bad food anywhere along this trip? We have not found it

But booking rooms is becoming a necessity as we realize We cannot just wander about looking for a guesthouse, hotel or whatever as often we do not know what to look for.  And now getting closer to the end, hotels, seem difficult to find, so we agree to nearly 90 k tomorrow and get to Rotterdam in another 70 k.  Will be some of our biggest days.  

So we ride skipping the GPS directions and sticking to the dikes along the river and a ferry ride across to the north side and the city of Gorinchem and our first motel similar to ones along the freeway at home.  And no restaurants nearby except Macdonalds so we eat at the motel restaurant and it was bad.  Deep fried breaded stuff.  Went to Macdonalds for desert and coffee.  It was nice riding today but not our best day together, but only 80 k as overrode the GPS.  For whatever reason it does not like dikes even though it shows them and definitely does not like ferries.  

Then our last day riding through the city which is no problem as seems there is always a bike path.  The GPS often guides us through countryside in the midst of the city.  Delightful.  Over the bridge and the Rhein river is big here, especially when compared to 26 days ago between Andermatt and Disentis Switzerland.

Rhein river near the mouth at Gorinchem

I had concluded when putting in waypoints and for the map it was going to be a navigational day, and it was.  I can’t count the number of times I told Jeanne we are lost again.  4 ways of navigating, GPS, the map, directional bike signs for the route, and just heading downriver.  If 3 out of 4 agree that is good, but often total disagreement.  GPS wants the shortest without ferries, and today it shows a total of 150 kilometers getting near Rotterdam and going back to the last bridge at Gorinchem to cross to the north side, signs in Holland have become sporadic and one does not necessarily know if they point the route to the east or west.  And the map shows no detail but does show what may be a more scenic route which is where I get my GPS waypoints from.

And it was delightful, through little villages and out into the countryside of farm fields. On and on but getting lost and going backwards, generally having a great time just riding our bicycles.   

rhein river delta riding
 
We had seen on the map an area which said national park.  Now what could be here to make a national park?  Well it turns out quite a lot.  We are in the delta area of which people told us the Rhein is not really a river at its mouth but a series of canals all over.  Well we came to the park headquarters and museum hidden in a mound of dirt.  DeBiesbosch National Park.   

Museum nationaal Park DeBiesbosch
     
A movie was shown in English and learned the history of the area from the year 1421 when work began on utilizing the area often flooded with either River floods or high storm tides from the ocean.  Over the centuries various things have worked well and harvest in the area were of the bull rush reeds then willows.  Complicated system of dikes, channels, canals were developed each changing the landscape and preserving a little bit.  Then in 1995 and 1996 there were floods which required more extensive work and large dams and holding areas were developed.  But people have realized with climate change the floods from the river will only increase and sea level is rising.  For a country below sea level that is not good, so a change in attitude is coming about.  They seem to realize you cannot just build the dikes higher and in the future they are going to give the river more room, not less, which means some farm country is going away.  

The park I believe translates to beaver national park and they have introduced beavers there to help with habitat, and apparently they are helping, but as noted time will tell.  It was a wondrous museum although mostly in Dutch, but pictures, artifacts, and diorama most helpful to our understanding.  And the mound of dirt did not look big from the outside but from the inside seemed huge.  

Then on taking a total of 4 ferries (which the GPS hated) one a bicycle, pedestrian only ferry across the Rhein.  Again we were wandering about the countryside going through the towns of Dordrecht and Papendrecht before approaching Rotterdam which the building are beginning to be seen some 16 kilometers to go.  (Did I mention there are no mountains here to block the view and it is flat). A most delightful ride winding our way about various canals.  

Then we find ourselves riding between two canals with old windmills all about.  The famous windmills.   

 

the famous windmlls built in 1740
 
 
We ride for several kilometers the crowds getting thicker as we approach the other end.  Turns out this is a tourist area and it is Sunday afternoon and we heard Spanish, Japanese, German, Dutch and English languages.  From our end of entry it was free but from the other end there was a charge walk amongst the 20 or thirty windmills.  Awesome. They use the windmills to pump water to and from various canals and water systems.

Then another ferry ride and into Rotterdam.   
Be careful as pedestrian sidewalks, bike paths, trams, cars and all with separate signals.    

   
What a concept bikes have right of way.  Roundabouts with bike lanes.  But be careful bikes can move a speed and you must watch when crossing or stepping into a bike lane.  

But directed ourselves into town center which seemed to be the railroad station hoping to find a sign which said end of trail.  Instead we found some folks from Perth, Australia (who speak excellent English although Australian English) who took our picture at the end of the trail.   

 
Contrast to 

 
It has been quite a journey.

Day 21

departed our friends house in absolutely no hurry.  Was a good rest day although did nothing, for the rest day.  I suppose that is what a rest day is.  Jeanne enjoyed talking with Britta.  I realize she, who is the more social one of the two of us, has been unable to converse as I have because I at least have the ability to ask for a hotel room or know a little bit of the language.  I will sometimes start a conversation with how are you and progress from there, but it usually ends shortly hereafter when my German language vocabulary is done. 

We thought the day would be easy with just riding to the other side of Köln, but it did not work out that way.  A delightful ride from the Mannings home in Lohma into and along the promenade of Köln, but by end of day we had gone further than the expected 40 k.  We came to a delightful town of Stadt Zons just before Düsseldorf  and thought a good place to stay but alas everything with no room or closed up tight. It was a cute little walled village of midevil times.  Once we decided to stop we were tired without much energy.  4 pm seemed a reasonable time to quit and look for a room.  

Ended up on ferry across river and progressed.  Stopped at a 4 star hotel but no double room but he did call and there was one hotel with a room and it was 95€ euro for a double nearby.  He only had address though but inquired if we had a navigation system which we do.  (GPS). But the street address would not register.  We rode on, Jeanne saying maybe we would have more luck in the congested areas rather than along the bike path.  On a lark I went up a side street and a hotel/ restaurant sign, was there. I checked and available although it was going through some construction and the stairs were just plywood.  The room was nice and the Italian dinner exquisite.  The bikes were stored in the wine cellar.  

Next day from the southern end of Düsseldorf we rode mostly without a clue of where we were, just head in the general,direction of river flow. Düsseldorf is 11 million people hence bigger than we expected and we meandered along the river enjoying the scenery and after the fact enjoying the navigation problems.  Finally reached the city center and on a lark went by the huge tower near city center.  On a lark went up it, locking our bikes in bike racks at base, storing bags at ticket counter and took the elevator to the 168 meter observation tower.  Delightful. Looked down on the bike path we had ridden with bike foot specific bridges.  A superb view of where we had been and where we were going.   

bicycle foot bridge viewpoint
  
rhein river with footbridge
  
Düselldorf and Rhein river
  
Düsseldorf germany
 
Next a large lunch along the promenade and then we must progress.

Düsseldorf lunch

About 3 pm, I began to tire although had only gone only 43 k.  Again we thought no problem with a hotel. Wrong again.  At first looked in town just off route and no hotels but found one within a kilometer, but they had no rooms.  One clerk looked up on computer rooms available and said only oneswere  in the city.  I had to ask what city, as our map only covers approximately 2 k either side of river and names seem different than listed on direction of bike routes or on our GPS.  He said just follow railroad tracks into town.  Hmmm. 7 kilometer, but now we are tired.  Is finding a hotel that difficult?  I guess so.  Seems common for us now to think no problem and then ride 20 k trying to find a place.  

the rhein route guide map 4 of 4

 But made it to city hotel near the main train station In the middle of town of Kablenz.  Not a bad ride but city.  Asked the registration clerk about busy rooms and he said his idea of why it was difficult for us was the smaller town have only a few rooms and may be full but many do not want to rent to bicycles, as they are only one night stays.    Hotels prefer business travelers who stay 3 and 4 nights.  

 

along the Rhein route
   
  But I was tired and Jeanne commented it appeared so.  I admit it then realized this was day 21 of bike riding, and as on the great divide 21 days proved a turning point.  Tired, frustrated, and feeling just not into it even though it is wonderful and exciting,  I am tired of the language difficulty, tired of the navigation and errors, tired of being on all the time, and not knowing what to expect.  And the frustrations get taken out on all sorts of idiotic things.  I complain because it is not like home and complain because it is like home and it should be different.  Arrrghghh.  Just tired. 

  
  But made reservation for next night guessing at 65 kilometers on down the river.  Tried to stay away from booking dot com as I know they charge 15% and would like hotel to get full amount.  Booked on Internet but after I found  much cheaper places on booking.com.  I tried.   

scenery along the way
  
bike lane in red
 
Then today’s ride just cruising along sometimes along the river and dikes and sometimes inland on 
n

small roads and bike paths.  Ended up 74 kilometers in the delightful historic town of Xanten with a 4000 year history.  Anchorage is a 100 years old this year so a bit different.  Hotel in midst of town and again a bit of luxury but part of adventure.  Dinner in square again outside where blankets are made available, as it is cooling off in September.  Delightful meal, and cost for

a 750 ml of great wine, appetizer, two wondrous full meals, desert, coffee, and great company for only 85€.  

And Internet.  When you have it you do not think much about it.  But not having It in today’s world is difficult.  And it is difficult to get just passing through as a visitor Hotels have very iffy wifi.  And may not have.  Paid 5€ last night and worked very sporadically.  Reminded me of 5 years ago at bike school in Colorado Springs with the hotel wifi, which was ok but not great, but ok.  The two Koreans asked me if anyone had wifi?  I responded the hotel had wifi and it was ok, but they just shook their heads.  I then remembered Korea standard is 100 MBytes/ second everywhere.  Geez we think 10 MBytes is good.  Everyone has their standards of what is acceptable. But thinking of how poor people survivewithout it.
 

Xanten
  
Xanten wall and windmill
 

   And thus another rambling story is over.  I could make it more concise I suppose but then the purpose of trip is bicycling and not writing.  We leave Germany today and into our 5th country of this trip (excluding Canada and Greenland on flight here). One week to go before return home.   Passed the three week mark and feeling better again.  Something about three weeks to get going and get a rhythm.  (We were here a week before starting bike ride). Good times!
 

Corrections, Britta, and great riding 

First a correction,  thanks for those who helped with my misunderstandings.  Apparently there is not a 8%religious tax but for those who choose 8% of their income tax goes toward their church of choice.  Slightly different than I stated.  

I am interested in the religious aspects, but have realized Germany is different than the U. S.  Imagine that.  Not better not worse – different.  I myself wonder about the time and money spent on churches and religion, but have come to realize this is a magnificent place because of it.  The numerous cathedrals in nearly every town, village and city are truly magnificent 

Sort of like in South America when I was complaining to Buck one day about the dogs.  Buck corrected me in saying it was the culture and often there is a reason for it, even if you do not understand.  

Once again the diversity of ideas makes things wonderful. I do not play hockey but believe having hockey rinks in anchorage makes it a better place.  Many people in the U. S.  think space explorations is a waste, but I believe it adds to our human experience and enriches all our lives.

Ok rambling and enough.

We met Britta who had taken the morning train from home near Köln to ride with us for a few days.  Jeanne and I have been together basically just the two of us for several days and once again we began to unload stories on her.  Had to have a coffee at train station in Mainz as too excited to start riding immediately.  

Finally began working our way back to the delightful river promenade and back on the trail.  Just nice riding although not really beside the river.  Near Bingen came across some old bridge works with an explanation of the bridge was destroyed in January of 1945.  Somehow that struck me.  Guess they were looking to finalize the war and having destroyed nearly everything else of any military value were beginning to destroy things of value to the general population.  Ugh.

  
In Bingen we had no hotel but the first place we came to the proprietor said we appeared to be capable of the 3rd floor and we got a wonderful room with terrace overlooking the river, carnival, and Main Street. (Capable of third floor means able to walk up as rarity to have elevator)

We went for a most delightful meal at a nearby restaurant and headed towards the wine festival, but had to stop at the hotel room for a jacket as evening weather cooling off.  Well we made it to our terrace and spent the next 2 hours there just watching, talking, and enjoying life.  Never made it to the wine festival.  

Then we got to ride our bikes from Bingen to Koblenz.  Everyone had told us this was the best part of the ride and it lived up to its reputation. A river went into a valley maybe 200 meters deep (estimate 700 feet) with castles galore.  At the end of the day I asked how many we had seen. I thought dozens and dozens, and Britta said she thought she had a picture of each one, as did I.  I had pictures of 14 but there were many more I realized hidden away. 

   
We picked one castle in the village of Bacharach to visit. Delightful town and a short hike up to the castles for coffee and cake.  

  

Bacharach main street
  
castle square
  
castle coffee, cake, and Rhein view
 

Then a very short discussion of distance to the Manning residence and we decide to go for it, meeting Todd enroute just before Bonn.  Another great day of riding although I think how come 85 kilometers is a big day for us? Well we stop for our lunch, stop the bakery, (we have adopted the standard of can’t get bread the day before because then it is old), stop for coffee and Radlers and just stop to whatever and enjoy.  

  
And now it is raining and we have decided on a day off.  In 19 days of riding it is our third rest day and first in 14 days.  And in those days we have worn rain coats only for a total of maybe 10 minutes.  

Now washing clothes, cleaning, organizing and just enjoying a break.  Riding the bicycle is fun but back to diversity.  Just a bit of change.  

Alone amongst millions

“real generosity to the future lies in giving all to the present.”

Albert Camus
Ok we stayed in the hotel at Meersburg exacting every inch of luxury out of it, staying until just past checkouts time of 10:30.  Actually quite delightful staying in the fancy hotel with little old ladies and their tiny dogs, brought to breakfast under the table.  I called various folks to update them on our progress – Günter, Bridgete, and Britta in Köln.  Then it was time and this time without a friend to guide us along, explain, translate, show us the way and generally provide some excellent companionship.  It was Jeanne and me and my limited German language skills.  

Wondered through the see side of Meersburg and found the ferry crossing to Kanstance and the southern side of the lake, which is where the main route goes.  We had detoured to the north side to visit Alfred, Bridgete, see Freidrichschafen and the Zeppelin museum, and Germany is the north side, tugs avoiding the expense of Switzerland.  We found the Euro15 and Swiss route 2 route signs marking the bicycle route, and we were back in business. 

Ferry ride from. Meersburg to Konstance

Navigating the route is simple but like any navigation can be misled easily.  There are bike way signs frequently and nearly every corner.  One just has to be aware and find them.  Then I have the Garmin GPS with Europe cycling routes loaded in, and Alfred loaded the GPX tracks in.  But the problem is even though it is supposed to reroute when off course it still wants me to visit every waypoint, even backtracking to it.  I just restart from current location.  Thus navigation is a combination of things – GPS, signs, the maps and guide books (all in German) and the tried and true method of we are going downriver.  

bicycle Route signs

The interesting part is Jeanne does not have a competitive bone in her body but often ends up in front and I have to chase her down for a missed turn or course correction.  She focus’s on riding and sometimes forgets to look for the signs.

It was delightful riding mostly on bike path, just cruising along.  We agreed before the ride to go approximately 60 kilometers a day and now we agreed to start looking about 4 pm for a place to stay.  We want to just see how it feels.  If one has reservations one must either be there and it is a long day or a short day.  

We made it to Diessenhofen on the Swiss side and Gallingen on the German side with a Swiss town apparently built in midevil times 1500-1600) and the bridge  in 1814-1815.

bridge between Diessenhofen, Switzerland and Germany
 
We agreed to stop but did not want to cross in Switzerland.  But Gailingen was definitely at the top of hill, thus we roads down the trail along river for a bit but realized no guest houses were forthcoming so back and climbed the hill.  

Ended up at first guesthouse we came to for 60€ and took it with shared bath and shower.  Overlooked town square and delightful.  Sat out on terrace where wifi was available and drank a delightful beer.  Then on to a restaurant for dinner deciding to try somewhere else to eat.  Lovely outdoor restaurant with incredible food.  Am loving this restaurant which is leisurely.  Dinner was nearly 3 hours long. Sit, talk, drink, enjoy and oh yes savor some delightful food.  Not rushed in the least.  I remember coming back from South America and going to a German restaurant in Plano, Texas and feeling rushed through, like the restaurant was a factory.    Here it feels comfortable to just order a beer and sit and enjoy even if it takes hours.  

But onward.  Breakfast at the guesthouse (included) and down the hill back to the Rhein route, and toward Schaffhausen and the Rhine Falls, a major attraction.  People told us it is no Niagra falls but it is spectacular.  I have not seen Niagra falls and it is not high on my list but waterfalls are each one wonderful and different.  The Rhine here averages 22000 cubic feet per second so is a big river and the falls are impressive.  

 

above the Rhine fall a nice couple. Jeanne and J. R.
 
rhein Falls
  

One incident nearly disastrous when we came up to an intersection on the road.  We were behind a car and traffic ligh from the road we were to join, but I could not see one for our direction.  I figured I just could not see it and waited behind the car in front.  He took off and I thought I saw the oncoming cars light turn red but when I reached the middle of street a car was bearing down on me from the right with no apparent desire to stop. I was at speed now turning left and a car was coming from the right with also no apparent desire to stop.  I made it, but what the $:&!?)&.  Alas things are different here.  There was a light on main road but none from the road we came from.  The car in front had seen a clearance and took it.  Unfortunately it was not a green light and I nearly changed our trip.

Then on stopping at grocery store for lunch supplies.  More fun to just stop and picnic at trail side.  The grocery store had well used bicycle parking right at the door.  The carts were locked and you put a coin in and it unlocked the chain.  When done you return the cart reconnect the chain and your coin is returned.

grocery store parking
 

 

Lunch Stop
 
Then onward thinking we might get to Waldshut but probably not.  Well soon we were riding along the Rhein route alongside the river riding watching people swim and enjoy the water.  The river is incredibly clean and apparently great to swim and boat, although we have not tried as yet.  

Then we were at Waldshut and it was hot, and the town center is uphill, from the trail along the river.  Before we knew it we had passed it by, although now looking and the heat becoming oppressive in the 80s with humidity.  And no hotels, all full.  Waldshut was at about 50 kilometers for the day and after numerous stops and side trips and questions and heat and very tired, we made it to Luttingen a very tiny village before Laufenburg.  Numerous hotels and guest houses and people had told us places ahead and given directions and distances.  Almost all were wrong.  No more than 200 meters was 2 kilometers, 2 kilometers was 4 and sometimes there was nothing there.  Alas part of the adventure but we were hot tired and cranky, but I might add still getting along.  

We went a total of 76 kilometers when the Hotel Kranz turned up, and it was delightful.  Good beer, good shower, good wifi, and very pleasant staff.  Seems every place we stay (except the one in  Tamins, before Chur) the staff has been very excited and appreciative when we like it.  It is as if they are personally involved, and not just a job.  

They said part of the reason the hotels are full in this area is it is holiday time, but also the nuclear plant requires yearly maintenance and it is done in August. So hotels full of the workers.

Another incredible dinner and meal and talked with three ladies also riding the Rhein route but going up to the Bodensee where one has a sister living.  They commented how the river is very clean now which was not true 20-30 years ago.  Perhaps the world is realizing we cannot just dump our waste.

And she mentioned she had been to the United States and found it disconcerting all the lakes were private access.  Here it is public all along the beach and accessible.  (Think Lake Tahoe, California, Flathead Lake in Montana, Kenai river in Alaska, or even Kenai Fjords National Park. All private beach access) Folks have come to realize the importance of nature and access here, not just who has the money and the rest of you stay away.  (I had the same complaint when riding the great divide 3 years ago).  Alas!

 

along the Rhine
 
Then today and not wanting to get burned again with no hotel picked one from booking.com hoping it to be about 60 K away.  Some said it was 40 to Basel the maps said 55 so whatever.  We opted for Weil am Rhein because it was in Germany and avoided Switzerland and we could shortcut bypassing the city.  Could have stayed in St.Louis France but that meant going through Basel.  

 

side route along the Rhein way
  
resting along Rheinfelden
  
Rhein route near Basel below railroad tracks
  
Under the train tracks Basel
  
crossing the hydroelctric dam between Switzerland and Germany
 
And a delightful day even though the temperature did hit 37 degrees on my Garmin. (High 90s Fahrenheit for those still using that old system) we could never tell where we would be riding sometimes along a great forest road along the river sometimes small villages and near Basel forests and below train overpasses.  Criss crossed the river numerous times sometimes in Switzerland (did not have to buy anything) and Germany finally crossing into Germany for final time just before the hotel. We did 57 kilometers and arrived at the delightful time of 2:30. Sweating and tired but the room is huge and we have been downing Radlers (half lemon aid and half beer) and straight beer.

The beer here in Germany is great, but almost always local.  Not a microbrew with numerous choices of tastes, but a Hefeweizen or sometimes and ale.  It is made and sold only regionally.  But always good.  I remember living in Germany for a few months in 1967 and coming home.  My dad offered me a beer when home either an Olympia or a Coors and I remember saying “What is this?”.  Made me glad I was underage and did not have to drink that stuff.  Have disliked “those beers” ever since.  So many choices in the world why drink bad beer.

And we now have gone 483 kilometers of the supposed 1300 for the entire route.  Our map says this past part was 435 kilometers although we we on the north side of Bodensee and did go to Alfred’s and Bridgete.  One article said it was 250 kilometers.  Whatever we had fun and a third of the way.  

 3 days 

wow friends.  What an amazing thing.  

Alfred had asked us to visit his home and perhaps a rest day. We gladly accepted the invitation, and rode the 70 kilometers from Mäder, Austria to Vogt, by way of Bregenz at the east end of Bodensee (Lake Constance).  The city was crowded but still a bike path along the lake although lots of activity which does not allow rapid transit.  A flea market, and the opera set of Turandot by Puccini.  What an amazing set and backdrop by and in the water of the lake.  

   
 Then on and we are continueing to be amazed at the delightful countryside.  Being Sunday people are out enjoying life, biking, going to the beach and enjoying the sun.  Vogt is at an altitude of 725 meters whereas the Bodensee is at 400 so a bit of a climb but it is all hill country of up and down.  Did a total of 525 meters and again we managed to get tired.  Must have something to do with no riding or exercise all summer. 

   
 Bridget, Alfred’s wife was waiting fo us and immediately began taking care of us having some Radlers ready and cakes.  She took our laundry and washed it cleaning my jersey like it has never been done, returning all neatly folded. Wow!

That evening we watched each of our movies we had made of our time in South America.  Fascinating to see the differences of slide shows.   Different viewpoints of the same thing, although Alfred did get to start from Quito, thus had photos of the time in Ecuador and northern Peru.

Monday, Alfred, Jeanne and I head to the train station about 15 minutes drive.  2 hours later we are in Munich, to see the city.  As with any city lots to do and not enough time, so we convince Alfred we enjoy just walking about. But first we head to the HofBrau House where Oktoberfest started. Now it is a huge festival the end of September and first of October which people throughout the world celebrate beer.  The restaurant is now a tourist area but delightful. 

   

 
Then off to the German museum which appeared from the outside to be a very good museum and it would have enough nice to see but alas time to return to the train. 

 

OK we had a beer or two
  
streets of Munich
  

Deutsche Museum
  
relaxing along the way
  
city hall München
 
The trains continue to amaze me.  3-6 minutes to change and not to worry, even having to go under or over the tracks.  
 
Munich main train station
 
On our return again Bridgit had a wondrous delicious meal of soup, bred and cakes.  Somehow we figured out I like sweets.  Hmmm.  But we ended up staying up late into the night, conversing, mostly about the adventure we had in South America.  Every day was not so incredibly difficult, but when done day after day after day, not only did the physical aspects add up but the mental wearing down.   Some survived it easier than others and some thrived.  For Alfred and I we concluded we thoroughly enjoyed the trip and given all the time in the world would gladly repeat it.  But there are so many other things.  And one cannot repeat the same trip as time,  weather, and people would be different.  And Bridgit and Jeanne state they have a closer understanding of what happened along the way.  They have heard the stories but not in combination with another rider who experienced the same thing.  Jeanne had unfortunately had to go to bed a bit earlier than we, but still states she has a much better understanding, after being with the two of us.  A delightful evening, bringing the memories back alive.  

  
But we must continue.  As delightful and wonderful as the visit was we are on a mission, thus yesterday we return to the bikes. Alfred loaded the GPX tracks from his computer of the Rhein trail onto my GPS and copied his movie for me, the we three rode to Freidrichshafen where we visited the zeppelin museum.  Back along the Bodensee.  A great place describing and showing the history of those incredible airships, including the disaster of the Hindenburg in 1937 at Lakehurst New Jersey.  There is a full size mockup of the Hindenburg passenger area.  Certainly not like air travel of today.  Spacious.

Bridgit had made us a superb lunch and we sat along the waterfront, dreading the departure.  We did not want to leave.  But alas it was time.

  
And Jeanne and I were just he two of us. Other than Andermattthis was first time on the trail without someone to guide us and explain the marvels along the way.  We planned to get out of town hoping to find cheaper lodging away from town.  Alas it was not to be.  Every place was booked up with no availability.  At first we passed by the obviously more fancy places but then began to check them too.  It is a delightful lake and beach area, and the Eurobike conference is curing in Freidrichshafen this week. It is the largest bike conference in Europe and we are told every room is booked for 20-30 kilometers. We were beginning to think we might end up wrapping up in what clothes we have along the beach.  But a hotel across  the bike trail had one rom left, but 125 euro per person.  Not the most expensive place I or we have stayed but when we opened the door – wow.  And dinner and breakfast included.  Thus we sat on balcony overlooking the Bodensee and sunset.  A wondrous 5 course meal of salads, fish lamb, desert and finished with another sit on the balcony watching the moon over the lake. 

 

It is so cool I can hardly stand it. 

“A man’s growth is seen in the successive choirs of his friends.

—RALPH WALDO EMERSON, “Circles”

A most amazing incredible 3 days. Andermatt, Oberallppass, Disentis, where Alfred met us, and has cycled with us the past two days guiding us, telling stories, listening to stories. 

Alfred who lives in Germany about 30 kilometers from Lake Constance (Bodensee) was on the Andes trail beginning in Quito. He placed second in the race and is obviously a superb athlete, but to me, more important is a good person.  

But back to the beginning in Andermatt.  Awoke and again rear tire flat.  Front tire was ok and I had changed it the evening before so was a bit worried.  Had the same kind of rim tape as rear tire but not worn.  I changed it preemptively.  Difficulty putting the tire on, and twice punctured the tube while attempting to get tire on.  Finally on and seemed good but the pump was getting tiring as small and basically only for emergency and it was not up to the task of fully inflating tire.  Thus to the bike store for a new pump and more spare tubes.  

At the bike shop the gal (Carmen) offered to look at rear tire just to double check my work.  Two hours later a new tire, tubes, patch kits (2), and a pump.  And tire installed with great difficulty, she punctured two tubes installing on tire which old one she found a hole although was not the cause of the flats.  Took two of us to get the new tire on and neither of us understood why.  Both old and new tires were 700c and sized 622  but old tire was 29″ and new one 28″. But 700c and 622 on both old and new, which should be the more accurate numbers of size and fitting.. What is what neither of us new.  Finally done and bill paid, time to get on road.  Carmen came out to bid us farewell and we both realized tire on backwards.  Ok I will live with it.   

Andermatt, Switzerland
 Jeanne was very nervousness about the climb.  I as usual do not really understand as what I see is Avery good cyclist although timid.  As usual I think physical activity is mostly mental.  Both Carmen and I reassured her just go slow and stop as necessary, but when one feels nervousness someone telling you that you are better than you feel does not always help.  But we started up the numerous switchbacks basically 5 kilometers of 8% slope then 3-4% for 6 kilometers. A total of 600 meters elevation gain.  And the Swiss countryside was awesome. Steep slopes seemingly mowed neatly, a cog railway with tourists aboard taking our pictures sweatin away.  The road near the top had a tunnel built to protect it from avalanches.  Again saw the couple from Budapest, Hungary and we all celebrated at the top with a little lunch.  They are on 4th year of honeymoon, riding recumbents.  They have have cycled all over the world now.  Discussed how much and what to carry.  She said you have to take what makes you comfortable and that varies between people.  

    

Swiss nountain road near Oberalppas. note the car passing safely
 
 
the descent
 
 
headwaters of the rhine
  Then the descent : the first 5 kilometer was a 12% grade with numerous switchbacks, then 20 k of just downhill.  We were tired as did not leave until after noon.  Picked the first place which was a wonderful hostel and I called Alfred who was riding up from Illanti after taking train from his home just north of  Lake Constance. He arrived 10 minutes later and we three talked after a hearty hug on greeting.  We sat and talked out front drinking beer, the out back for dinner and more beer. A delightful evening.
Up the next day making our own breakfast in the hostel. Then off  riding.  Took a while to find trail but when we did great.  Had debated riding the road but then discovered Rhein bike path was on other side of valley.  It was a great trail, but it went up and down.  


    In the end we climbed 674 meters, whereas yesterday only 607.  But overall dropped 300 meters in elevation.  Even some single track, although mostly gravel.  End of day more pavement by the “Grand Canyon of the Rhein” gorgeous! Totally pooped out at end of day not making it to intended destination of Chur.  This we gave up but the only guest house in town was up a steep hill.  60 kilometers and we were tired.  Guess we are paying the price of not riding much this summer.  And guest house was not overly impressive so got the bus for 10 k ride into Chur and music festival going on.

Today absolutely incredible.  We started up high on oberalpass where the Rhein starts as a small spring, but today it became a small river.  After Chur it is well contained inside dams and bike paths run down both sides.

 

bike bridge between lichstenstein and swirzerland
  We crossed over into Lichstenstein and road its 20 kilometer length.  Lichstenstein is one of the smallest countries in the world.  Then into Austria Stopping for a coffee but order these incredible pasta meals with radler beers.  We then decideded enough for one day, but had to ride on 5o find a place to stay.  First town with two places full, and roads on to Mäden and a delightful place.  Showered and sat out on porch drinking beer and having desert and wiener schnitzel of some sort.  Also excellently, then some great conversation reliving the Andes trail. 85 kilometers today and at midnight still up.  

  
Also to note we got to Austria and prices back to somewhat normal. Meals in Switzerland were 30-35 each whereas in Austria we pay 8-12 for similar.  Beer in Switzerland was 8-10 and Austria 3.5.  Everyone has told us Switzerland is almost three times as expensive. (Those prices are for Swiss francs and euros, which are basically 1:1 in value.). No wonder people do not go to Switzerland.  

Traveling to the beginning

Left the Köln area, with Britta driving us to the Bonn railway station, a 20 minute drive.  We had put our gear (mostly clothes into the panniers but have never really rode with them on the bikes.  This will be a first for Jeanne.  I have had several trips with panniers and do not like the way the extra weight can throw you around.  But unless you pay someone to carry your stuff this is the only way I know of, although The Great Divide trip was nice as lightweight and centered.  

But an hour or two after I had fitted the bikes, put on Jeanne’s peddles, attached computers etc., we were sitting inside and a sudden whoosh as “my” bikes rear tire developed a hole in the tube.  Aargghhhh.  Ok change it, and notice Jeanne’s front tire is low after just pumping it up an hour before.  Arrgghhhh!  Ok Jeanne’s was the valve, and easily fixed by just tightening the valve which came loose when pumping the tire.  But repaired mine with a patch, pumped it up and good to go.  Could find nothing in the tire to make a cause of the hole.  

A delightful barbecue dinner with Britta and the boys, final packing and begin to load the two bikes, and panniers into the car.  My rear tire is flat, and I do a quick repair again. Off to the train station arriving a bit over an early so as not to keep Britta up all night.  

At the airport we begin working about getting onto the right train, and as we only have minutes to find the right car for our bikes, load them and then find our car.  I start talking with a gal from Köln who spoke excellent English and she explained how you could find where each car would stop.  

Every once in a while a train would come roaring through, usually a cargo train.  They do not seem to slow down or if they do, only to maybe 60-70 mph.. No wonder you do not even consider jumping over the tracks.  Standing  on the platform 3 feet from the tracks and a train comes flying by, wow. Jeanne’s hair in this humidity is wild and the wind for the train made it fly.

But we decided on a proper spot where our car (#176) would be and waited, but alas it will be 15 minutes late, then 20 then 25 minutes late. We have 6 hours to Basel, Switzerland where we have 11 minutes to change trains.  Oh boy a new worry, but not much can be done now.  

The train finally arrives and we have missed our car by only a car length. Climb on pulling the bikes up the steps, panniers throwing weight the wrong way. And we see why reservations for the bikes are needed.  It is a special car and maybe 50 bikes hanging from hangers on the walls.  A conductor happens by and gets us squared away on the last two  hangers, numbers 24 and 25, and checks bike tickets to reassure us, and I notice we are moving and have left the station so now to wander up 3 cars to our seats.  Trains are so smooth one barely can tell you are moving.  Seems there are not seats as I am used to but compartments.  We are lost on the dark train but again a conductor is sitting in his office and helps us out.  Turns out our seats are in a compartment of 6 bunks.  Someone else had been lost and was in one of our bottom bunks, but after the conductor got us put away he took care of him.  Wow a bed, how civilized.  Fell asleep almost immediately until my alarm went off at 6 am. 5 delightful hours of sleep.

Then back to the bikes where several others are gathered for their bikes.  My rear tire is flat.  But we arrived at the station at scheduled time of 6:47 and off we go to find the correct track and train, taking the elevator one at a time from tack 10 to track 3.  We make it for the 7:04 departure, this time it is an interegional train not requiring reservations. There are specific cars though for bikes, but we find it, Jeanne and I argueing  over if it is the right train as nothing says it is going to Göschenen, but the track number is correct.  Jeanne wants to get off rather than find ourselves somewhere wrong, but I prevail and we stay on trusting the paperwork. We hang the bikes and I remove the wheel again, determined to  find the cause, as this one was a brand new tube.  Repair the tube and find a hole in the rim tape wrapping the wheel to protect the tube from sharp edges of the spokes and rim.  I take the plastic  from a bag of nuts we have and cover the area repairing the tube, and pumping with our small pump, totally breaking sweat.  It is not a good morning as grumpy and pissy.

I realize jet lag is still affecting me.  I just feel off.  Letting the worries get to me, little sleep at the wrong time, etc. etc.  

 

jeanne awaiting arrival at Görshenen. the bike symbell shows it is a train car which can carry bikes.

 We ride up into the hills and all looks like a Swiss postcard, people are off and on the train at each stop, finally after leaving Lucerne, Göshenen shows up on one of the stops.  This time we have 6 minutes to change but our next ride is less than 15 minutes. I figure we could bike it if train is missed.  This time it is a regional train and only three cars. We lift the bikes onto the freight car.  Then as the train begins I wonder “what was I thinking we could ride this”.  It is a cog railway taking us up a narrow canyon through tunnels and looking out on the highway cut into the mountain.  Jeanne described it as a developed Yosemite valley.  Incredibly beautiful, and raining, but we reach our final destination of Andermatt at our scheduled time of 10:04.  Another wasted worry. 

our hotel to left
downtown Andermatt City center and main street
    
area around Andermatt
 
Andermatt is obviously a ski town with the ski runs coming apparently right into town.  It has narrow cobblestone streets
and is quite charming.
  We walk to our hotel with the bike GPS directions, a distance of 435 meters, pushing the bikes as in street clothes and my rear tire although still inflated because of my morning pumping was lacking, is low, and not because of flat.  

This is the only reservation we have made which is non refundable and we felt first night should have something. Numerous sources had said would be difficult, thus we reserved a cheaper hotel online at 155€.  I think we are the only ones here.  Oh well as soon as we could get into room we both fell asleep barely talking as still grumpy.  This is proving to be my worst day of jet lag yet.  

But Jeanne woke me about 1:30 and we walked to bike store to check for rim tape, another spare tube and a cycle computer for Jeanne as hers lost somewhere during the night.  Nice to walk about and now only misting, with clouds above us.  Temperature of 6 C (40s f) and rather pleasant although very humid and chilly.  Back for more clothes.  Lunch and bike repair also changing the front rim tape as same thin tape on it, so preemptive.  

Texted Günter our arrival and our trials.  He responded “all part of the adventure”

We have been assured only the first few switchbacks of tomorrow’s climb is steep then it gradually climbs the 800 meters over 11 kilometers then we reach the headwaters of the Rhein river.  

Köln. (Cologne)

Another great two days of visiting and learning.  Tod and Britta met us at Siegburg stop to get us to their house about 10 kilometers away.  Stopped at ticket station as had to get train tickets to Andermatt a minimum of 24 hours ahead of time and with bicycles cannot do online. There was a great schedule leaving at 8am getting into Andermatt at 5 pm but alas no room for bicycles, which require a reservation also, as bicycle space is limited.  Have to take the regional as the high speed (ICE) does not take bikes.  Thus we are leaving at 6 minutes after midnight arriving Basel, Switzerland at 6:47, changing trains to Göschenen and depart at 7:03 arriving 10:47, changing again to depart at 10:53, arriving at Andermatt at 11:06.  So we are earlier and can explore Andermatt, or if we miss the last train, just ride our bikes there. And the ticket was 50€ cheaper than the day train, although it is at night.   

 As noted earlier, I think, we met Tod and Britta in Anchorage many years ago.  He works as a FedEx pilot and is based out of Anchorage, they and their two boys Hatcher and Everet took a four year assignment here in Germany.  They return to Anchorage next summer, so if we wanted someone to visit this was the year.  We met via biking and they are loaning us their very sweet bikes for this trip, hence our travels north to here then return south to begin the ride.  

But our visit here has been brief Todd showing us the bikes and general greetings then he departed via train for Basel and work for some days before returning home.  

There home is great and I am enjoying the energy efficiency of German homes.  The windows seem good 3-4 panes thick and open easily and efficiently.  Both houses we have seen have ceiling windows and open for ventilation without leaking rain.  And it has rained past two days. The toilets are water saving sometimes so much one must always flush as there is not enough water to dilute the urine and it quickly begins to smell.  Some toilets you push to start the push to stop the flow the task is complete.  None of this 4-6 liters to flush 200 mil liters.  And like Alaska no air conditioning.  Although I guess it was hot earlier this summer.  But good ventilation if needed.  

Then yesterday the boys left about 7 riding bikes to school and Jeanne, Britta, and I took train into Köln, a trip of 1o minutes for the 15 kilometers.  The train station is next to the cathedral which is just as impressive as when we were here 10 years ago.  The cathedral is huge being approximately 80 meters in height and covers a large space.  As I have said before I am amazed people spend so much time and money building these artifacts of religion, but then Günter says that is or was the culture.  This cathedral took nearly two hundred years to build.  

  

And walking about Köln I learned there are little Star of David’s on the sidewalks to mark where someone was removed during WWII.  We found three marking their removal in August of 1943 and deaths on August 7 of 1943.  Sobering.

But the point of our trip was to visit Jeanne’s cousins daughter Rachel.  She Took German in high school near St. Louis and came to Germany for one year to complete her German education.  During that year she fell in love with Germany and fell in love with her futures husband.  She now has two children here in Köln.  Her mother MaryAnn is visiting her from the states so it was a treat to visit.  We met for brunch at a great little restaurant spending nearly three hours there.  

  
Hopefully we will see them again on our way north as we pass Köln enroute to Rotterdam and the ocean, and again at the end of the trip.  

A delightful walk back to train station passin by the corner where the first perfumes were made in the 1700’s.  I learned when one is walking in a crowd with an umbrella one must not only watch oneself but match the height of the umbrella to others as they cannot all fit at the same level.  Little things one learns through life.  

  Today a walk back from town after Britta dropped us off at grocery story where we perused the various German foods, and got some snacks for the night train.  Back at the house and got the bikes ready having one of the tires spring a leak an hour after pumping it up, and another with a slow leak at the valve.  Both easily fixed.  

A nap as still finding ourselves jet lagged.  Every day we think that is it, but we seem to be exhausted more easily than usual.  Has been 5 days now.  

But tomorrow we begin although theoretically no riding except practice.  Jeanne worried about the pass, a climb of 800 meters.  You can read her blog for comparison at Riding the Rhine with Jeanne.  Perhaps an interesting contrast to my writing.  
Off we go 

Aschaffenburg 

As he said he would Günter met us at the Frankfurt airport, as we left immigration control.  What a treat.  I had met Günter when he joined the Andes trail trip last year, in Bariloche Argentina riding to the finish at Ushuaia.  He had been a pleasure to ride with there and has been a most amazing host here for the past two days.  

It was Günter who I paired with for the final time trial of “the race” on the Andes trail.  It was a couples race with the last person of the couple crossing the finish line receiving the time for both people.  We took last place going only 36kph for 50 kilometer, except for two couples who were very distinctly not racing even more than us.  Günter and I yammered the entire hour with a strong tailwind.

He lives just outside the city of Aschaffenburg about 50 kilometers from the Frankfurt airport.  We drove to his place with a stop at the castle built sometime around 1650 for the Bishop at the time with a walk about town talking and exploring.  Back to his house his wife Marion was waiting.  

Jeanne and I were tired having been up for approximately 19 hours with minimal sleep on the packed flight.  Our body clocks said it was 3 am, with the local time at 1 pm.  A bit of a disconnect.  But we decided the best was try and immediately adapt to local time which meant a great bike ride, although all agreed we should make no solid decisions.

Off we went for a 26 kilometer ride about the area along seemingly endless bike trails, cars stopping to give us the right of way.  Approximately 1/2 way we stopped at a Biergarten for a couple of Radlers. Radlers are bikers beer which are 1/2 beer (Hefeweizen) and half lemonade.  Not so much alcohol and a bit of energy for the riding.  And each came with a hot pretzel.  Normally I do not like pretzels as they are hard cracker tasting things, but these were basically a fresh bread and delicious.  

Then back to dinner with Günter and Marion.  He barbecued some delicious Argentina beef with some bratwurst and shishkebab of corn, zucchini and tomato.  Awesome meal.  But alas the time was catching up with Jeanne and myself; Jeanne dropped first and excused herself while Günter and I drank a bit of after dinner brandy.  Then I dropped out.  

Yesterday (Saturday, the 15August) the four of us took off for Seligenstadt across the river Main(pronounced mine) where we indulged in some champagne from a street vendor in the town square.  It was busy there was a holiday in the state of Bavaria where Günter lives but across the river is the state of Hesse and it was a normal busy Saturday.  A delightful 50 kilometer ride mostly along the Main river with barges going by and people out enjoying the sunshine, with on boats or biking or walking.  

  Then arrangements for the train.  We downloaded the German train app and plugged in where we want to go which for now was to visit Todd and Britta near Köln.  Amazing to read we have to change trains three times with only 3-9 minutes to change trains.  Back in the good old USA it would be 3-9 hours.  Günter says if a 10 minute delay, it is a major problem.  Wow. But could not get tickets for Siegburg to Andermatt Switzerland as the bikes take a special ticket and unable to obtain on the Internet.  

A delightful dinner out and another great sleep.  Now currently writing this while on the train cruising along at 248kph.  Amazing and all the connections are working without a problem.  

  It has been a most enjoyable two days.  Günter and Marion were awesome hosts not only feeding and housing us, but showing us the sights around Aschaffenburg and teaching how to get trains and negotiate the German culture.  

A New Bike Ride

Well it has been a while since writing and I have missed it, although I confess I have been lazy.  I did write a bit in April for the life stories class and put those ramblings on the site J. R. at home, but nothing since although my mind and ideas are barely under control with ideas.  Initiating those ideas is a totally different thing.

But a new trip is in the works.  This one to Germany with Jeanne.  Apparently “they” have finished the Eurovelo15 bike route from the headwaters of the Rhine river in Switzerland to the ocean near Rotterdam Holland.  Reportedly bike paths the entire way, which seems what they do in Europe.   We have arranged 5 weeks to do the 1230 kilometers leaving the 13 August, next week.

And one of the better parts is the bikes are there.  We have friends Todd and Britta who live here in Anchorage, but he, being a FedEx pilot, has taken a 4 year trip to Germany where they currently reside out of Köln.  Every year they have returned to Anchorage in the summer for a visit and stayed with us.  Now we visit them and they have bikes for us to use.  Sweet.  Good bikes and do not have to transport ours.  It was a good excuse to visit them.

Thus the preparations go on here.  We are doing the trip ourselves, no one to carry our stuff, no one to make arrangements, no one to guide us wherever.  And no particular schedule, although as usual I am finding already things are tight.  We know a fair number of people and trying to visit them is difficult at times due to our schedules and theirs.  Eric, the foreign exchange student we hosted in 2003 from Sweden is now a doctor, and we would love to see, Jeanne has a cousin and her daughter in Köln, friends I met in South America who reside in Germany and nearby places.  I guess if it works it will work but if not well it is no worse than not having visited or tried at all.

Currently we are going through ideas of things to take and preparations.  Travel insurance obtained this morning including emergency services and emergency returns back to where we have health insurance,  airfare already obtained via Condor air which is sweet with a direct flight from Anchorage to Frankfurt Germany.  None of that flying down south to go around to Europe.  10 hours direct.  GPS and potential routes mapped,  Cameras and charging devices, iPhone, iPad, and the implements of modern travel.  Talking with folks from the areas to be visited to see what is available and options.  We are hoteling it thus our loads will not include camping gear although it  sounds like camping is very good way to travel there.

And so if any of you are still on the mailing list here is another blog by J. R.  hopefully interesting, but then I find I write for me to remember.