Travel

Short week visit Seattle

Posted on by J. R. Patee

How lovely it is to do nothing and rest afterwards.
Spanish proverb

Sometimes it seems one must change things up a bit. A vacation like thing. It is here I confess I have fallen for the mileage plan gimmicks of Alaska Airlines. I needed 881 miles to achieve MVP status which gets me free checked baggage and a few inches more of leg room on the sardine tubes with wings. Unfortunately in Alaska, unless you are willing to take numerous days and travel via car and or boat, airplanes are our mode of travel. Often that longer journey is preferred but sometimes you just want to get there. If you want to spend time in Greece you have to go to Greece and skip over there wondrous areas in-between here and there. Alaska Airlines lists the route from Anchorage to Seattle as 1443 miles and about 3 to 3.5 hours plus airport times. As any older person will tell you, it was always better when we were young. I think we just choose to forget all the problems, inconveniences and remember the fond memories. Flying used to be fun and certainly a whole lot easier, or I remember it easier and definitely more fun.

Hence Jeanne and I are in Seattle, just for 4 days. Autumn colors were just past peak and we were visiting friends, walking about. Cities are great for walking. There are a variety of transportation modes to learn and utilize, but walking is for us a top notch way to just view neighborhoods, seeing the various ways people park their cars in garages, or driveways, or street side. We gave up renting a car years ago when in Seattle as crowded, parking impossible, and the train is so much easier. Then we uber/lyft from train station to wherever going. Or if only a mile or 2 just walk.

Not staying at friends opens up the world to explore and gives us our own quiet downtime. Have a good hotel next to Lake Union and get to sit and watch the kayaks, sculls, floatplanes, boats cruise about.

Tuesday was a day to visit Maralyn, a dear friend from Colorado College days numerous decades ago. We recently saw her at French Glen in Oregon. Now retired, she remains an artist, an avid artist. After some computer work updating her computer, hopefully without losing any valuable photo albums, we set off to find a new sculpture by John Grade, called Union Sculpture, along a trail at the Washington Park Arboretum. A delightfully thoughtful piece hanging from the trees. evoking thoughts of forests, fishing, sunlight, who knows what. As Maralyn, Jeanne and I were there staring upward and a lady walks up and says “What’s that”? Maralyn realizing not everyone is into art as she is and says something like “That is art, it is to inspire you” I roughly paraphrase her as I cannot remember exactly what she said. The lady continued on the trail looking upward at the piece, until she passed it and resumed her trail walk.

John grade union sculpture

A wonderful Mexican meal, some cruising about Lake Washington of which Maralyn has had a lifelong admiration for. Dinner at another awesome restaurant along the Lake adding more Colorado College friends.

Lake Washington sunset with Mt. Rainier

Wednesday was the day for us to discover Seattle. Having been here numerous times. since 1962, it is always interesting to rediscover. Boeing aircraft started here, and now home to Microsoft, Amazon, and Starbucks. It has grown and suffered growing pains. Diverse, multicultural, and a multitude of activities. , Yet again, Jeanne and I chose the main tourist stuff. We walk the couple miles toward Pikes Market.

Biodome downtown Seattle.

Pikes Market used to be a market for fish and groceries now it is a famous tourist attraction market, with seafood displays, and produce and art stalls of home made wares for sale, worthy of a walk through.The city has cleaned up the area a bit from the old dirty streets and made a overpass walkway to the docks, now more tourist stuff, than working docks.

Walkway by Pikes Market

A trip to the ferris wheel, and then the aquarium.

Moon Jelly’s

We had hoped to go to Pioneer Square with the variety of activities there, parks, bookstores, and the klondike museum (about the Alaska gold rush to the Klondike which is in Canada). Alas the oyster bar got in the way requiring seafood ingestion, and then we needed a nap. Alas the city is not good for that, but the Washington state ferry was right there, as it is a dock. Hence we hopped on the 1/2 hour ride to Bainbridge, got off , back on and return. Now getting dark, and decided rather than train or walk, we explored the bus service. In the past has been excellent and proved to be the same. 3 blocks from ferry to start and unfortunately I did not know it stopped in front of our hotel, and we got off 200 meters ahead, requiring a walk.

Thursday was Jacqui day, another friend from Colorado College days. She had planned a lunch at her place then a walk about Green Lake near her place. Frank, her boyfriend met us there for a superb meal. Unfortunately it was raining, although I am not sure we noted that until after we had sat, catching up on the time between last visits.

Then to a restaurant Jeanne and I found just wandering the neighborhood a couple of years ago when we stayed at an airBNB nearby. We met our nephew and his wife and yet another stupendous meal. Jacqui and Frank accompanied us on our walk to the restaurant, adding to our time together.

Friday we were too fly home and I am actually excited to fly in the middle of the day instead of the usual 4-5 am arousal time to get to a 6 or 7 am flight. Alas it falls into the category of enjoy yourself now because you know not what is around the corner. For some reason my body decided to rebel against some foreign invader, probably picked up on a handrail, random wall, table, bench, whatever. No one else got it, but I realized I did not want to be on a plane or even more so, the passengers on that plane did not want me on it. Jeanne changed our reservations first to later in the afternoon, then to Saturday. It reminded me of the time in ‘South America bike ride when suddenly one night I became violently ill and spent the night in a campground shower. Ugh Wrote about that in this blog “Existence” occurring on 2 November 2014.

Saturday we arose felt good and walked the 2 kilometer (1.2 miles) to the train, had the easiest time ever going through TSA. I think it was a compliment when the agent said the government would like to clone me for going through so easy. Not sure that is a compliment, but prior the Seattle airport has always been one of my worst TSA experiences.

Getting there early to allow for TSA we had time and got some Orange chicken and rice for lunch. It came with a fortune cookie.

Adventure is not on the outside

It is inside

Fortune cookie

Frenchglen, Oregon weekend

Posted on by J. R. Patee

Failure is where we learn the most.

Faith Dickey (professional highliner)

My friend Maralyn is a friend from Seattle. I first met her as a freshman in Colorado College. This happened, shall we say, over 50 years ago. She is as I describe, a poor starving artist who is one of the most delightful people you could ever meet. She has gone to this little hotel in Frenchglen, Oregon for over 40 years as a little retreat. This year she invited us and we made the time available, mid to end September. I checked for reservations and alas very full, and this was May_June. Geez who thinks that far ahead? But got them and on waiting list for Friday night, which was successful two weeks prior to our arrival.

Then, one of my cousins, while visiting this summer said we needed to come visit, enticing us with a baseball game at Wrigley Field, in Chicago. I have been to one- half of a game in St, Louis. OK-it seemed we could tack it on to the Frenchglen trip. Then there is the “family cabin which my cousin Tom has in mid Wisconsin, not too far. Well the trip has ballooned into a huge visiting people. to be revealed. Jeanne flew into San Francisco, rented a car, and drove to a friends house to visit in Gilroy, the garlic capital of the world. Then to friends near Yosemite National Park where she worked and lived for 4 years. Two days there and on to another friend who used to live in Alaska and now is a campground host.

Jeanne picked me up in Reno, Nevada Thursday night. Friday we drove to Frenchglen, a small unincorporated town in southern Oregon. It is near the Malheur Wildlife refuge. A drive of about 380 miles(611 kilometer) made in about 6 1/2 hours, stopping Winnemucca, Nevada to visit more friends. Driving north, I recognized the area as a desert. It was transitioning into high desert, similar to Southern Idaho where I spent grades 1-8 going to school there.

  • Frenchglen hotel

I did learn that it is not really what I called a high desert – sagebrush, cold winters, hot summers, very dry. It is not a desert which by definition is very little precipitation. Frenchglen gets about 15” (38cm) of precipitation a year, similar to(slightly less) than Anchorage, Salt Lake City. Seattle gets about 40″ (101cm). It snows a lot in the winter in Frenchglen and the Steens Mtn. scenic loop does not open until late May or later, due to snow. Turns out sagebrush requires too much water to live in a desert. Thus the area is actually called a shrub steppe. Whoopee.

We stayed at the Frenchglen hotel, registered on the National Historic register since 1924. A delightful place, although as with old wooden hotels, one wants to check the fire escapes when you move in. Meals are family style, which leads to wonderful conversations, with what I would call an eclectic group. There were several artists. They worked in oils, watercolors, and wood. A couple worked in environmental areas. They also occasionally worked in theatre as performers and directors. A seismologist, a geologist, and an architect were also present. One lady had worked in Los Angeles as an accountant. She tired of being inside, and her family was in Oregon. She quit her job, became a truck driver, and moved near Astoria, Oregon. A variety of people and delightful conversations.

Sunrise

The last morning, Maralyn and I were watching the sunrise from the front porch when a pickup truck pulled up. An apparent local then came in, and Maralyn and I hit him up before the front door was closed. Delightful character answering our numerous questions concerning ranching in the area. His job for the day was transporting 3 truckloads of hay to a ranch farther north. The big round rolls of hay. We learned a huge amount about hay and bailing it up, transporting for the winter. The coffee finally finished, and we all had to precede with our day.

But driving there one looks out and goes “there is nothing here, what have I signed up for” But I knew it is a “desert”, and what there is there, is definitely hiding and one has to look to see. Deserts are full of life. You just have to open up. Look as if you were in the desert, not as a human. Fascinating places but these areas require a change of attitude to see the glories.

The first day everyone proceeded to their own destinations. First I queried the geologist on the local geology. Geologists are generally incredibly passionate about geology, and almost always are willing to share their knowledge. This one very much so. I got a quick and dirty semi advanced geology lesson of lava flows, basalts, and such.

Jeanne and I drove the Center Patrol Road (CPR) sort of down the middle of Blitzen River Valley. Stopping to view turkey vultures, ranches, the river, drainage ditches, and efforts to control invasive critters and weeds.

Then came the visitor center at Malheur wildlife refuge. the visitor center was closed, not for lack of visitors or any known reason. But the book store and nature center was open and the volunteer there was delightful and informative.

We proceeded to the narrows between some ponds and viewed all sorts of birds. I am not much at identifying birds, but it is fascinating watching them. We hoped to see the western grebes dancing across the top of the water. Unfortunately, they just wanted to run about the water. Stopped at Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Areas too view volcanic result

Sunday, Maralyn and Mary, who attended Colorado College with me and have maintained close contact ever since, along with Jeanne, drove the Steens Mountain Loop. The road is a 60 mile (100 k) loop. It goes from Frenchglen, which is at 4200 feet elevation (1280 meters), and rises to 9500 feet (2895 meters). Several canyons originate near the summit ridge. The aspen trees were beginning to change colors. But the best part was to spend a wondrous day with these three ladies.

Wildhorse Lake and a selfie.
Kiger Canyon

Boxed Lunchs

Alvord Desert

Monday, most people were departing, making room for a new set of visitors. Jeanne and I headed south. We went off course once to visit the Alvord Desert. It’s below Steens Mountain on the opposite side from Frenchglen. Stopped at Fields at the one store and got a milk shake. A repeat of the drive up, a long 6 hour drive to Reno. We visited Neva, who had come up to visit this summer. We delivered a photo book and video of her trip to Alaska this past summer. She is 13 years old and had spent 10 days with us.

It was a long day. I fell asleep early and long. Now in Carson City, Nevada visiting another good friend.

Home again

Posted on by J. R. Patee

If I had my life to live over again, I would have made a rule to read some poetry and listen to some music at least once every week.

Charles Darwin

Made it back yesterday afternoon. 2491 miles (4009 Km) 50 hours and 7 minutes drive time. (Thanks to the wonderment of the new car, it recorded that), 6 days total and as noted too fast. We did the final push in 6.5 hours with only one stop to empty bladders. Whew. Before leaving talked with some motorcyclists from Michigan touring the route we just did. They were scheduled to go to Whittier today, and I mentioned I would be there for hiking. Interesting the various convergences.

Incredible country- we went through the rain forests of northwest United States, the rain forests of coastal Canada, into the dryer interior lands with big rivers. The flatlands between the Canadian Rockies and the coastal range. Along the interior side of the Wrangell St. Elias mountains, and home. When we left Haines Junction yesterday after our Canadian Chinese breakfast it felt like we were in our homeland again. Then we got to the Chugach Mountains of Southcentral Alaska. Beautiful day, and the mountains greeted us in good fashion.

Mt. Wickersham

Arrived home and friends came over to welcome us home. The summer ski jumping solstice camp is going along and some of parents from previous years came over and was good to reacquaint.

Road Trip II

Posted on by J. R. Patee

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Departed Hazelton and made it the 45 km to Kitwanga for breakfast at roadside gas station. Only game around and ordered the 2x2x2x2 breakfast- 2 eggs, 2 bacon, 2 ham, 2 spam, 2 toast, and hash browns. Then on to the totem park, for a quick tour, then began the 450 miles (724 km)of Cassiar Highway. We have done it several times winter and summer. and always a treat. Not as developed as the Alaska Highway, being more winding and mountainous. We expected a fair amount of traffic due to the Alaska highway being closed, but not bad. Had no issues whatever. And the scenery was great. It is entirely paved now except for tiny sections undergoing construction. As before though the southern end is much better than the northern end which gets a bit rough and narrower.

Kitwanga totem park
Great rest stops and frequent.
180 degrees from previous picture
Approaching Stikine river Bridge.

A tiny room barely enough room to squeak around the bed and a shared bathroom.

We realized we were probably not going to make it the entire Cassiar unless we pushed later than we like. I looked at Jade City, a mining place with, I thought a motel and restaurant. We had the Milepost – the guide to driving the highways, byways and routes to and around Alaska. It listed only a small 4 room motel and no restaurant. The next one was another 75 miles (120km) going south when we reached the Alaska Highway to Watson Lake. Dease lake motels were full and it was only 2 pm, way too early to stop there, so on we went to see what Jade City offered. We arrived at about 7 pm and motel seen, but office closed up. Jeanne knocked and a nice lady came and unbolted some major dead bolts. They negotiated a price involving credit card, cash, Canadian money, and American money. Settled on $120 US with a 10 dollar Canadian change given. Price was $110 so we lost a bit, but it was the last room, so we got a place to stay. We had eaten a fair quality hamburger in Dease Lake, so food was not an issue.

Picture taken from opposite corner.

“In the morning supposedly they had breakfast, but none to be found. We flunked the coffee making in Keurig coffee machine managing to spill water all over the counter and floor using up precious coffee modules. As another resident said “us old people don’t do well with the fancy coffee machines. How about just a percolator or the drip kind” Fancy coffee machines, but they give powdered creamer with the coffee.

On to Nuggett City at the junction of Cassiar and Alaska Highway for breakfast. One item only 2 over easy eggs, ham, hash browns, and toast, but you can upgrade to bacon if you want. No changes including changing over easy scrambled eggs. They could do the eggs over hard though. Again flexibility is required.

Then Whitehorse which we have always liked. The town has never let us down. Arrived a bit early for stopping but one must at least walk to the Yukon and Miles Canyon, which we did. Realized our friend Sheila, back in Portland Oregon, had said to eat some donut holes from Tim Hortons for her. Tim Hortons is a Canadian chain of restaurants scattered all over Canada. Thus to fulfill our obligation, knowing it was last Tim Hortons for us, on this trip, we went into town and ordered donut holes. Then discussing later plans we realized food later was again going to be shall I say not at a time we wanted. One must be very flexible when driving the highway. Thus we ordered a sandwich and a chicken bowl. Sandwich OK, bowl very good.

.

Miles Canyon Yukon river

The discussion continued about plans. We had hoped to be back to Anchorage by Tuesday night, making it a five day drive. It seems though 500 mile days (800 km) is a bit much for us not leaving anytime for hiking, viewing stopping and just unlaxing at rest areas. Have done the trip in 3.5 days but it was drive, sleep quick, drive, and eat in car. Seems a crime through such beautiful country. From Whitehorse it is 706 miles home (1136 km). Doable but not really fun. Thus maybe stay in Whitehorse. The fires are done and a bit of rain cleared the air, so air quality is good. I have said 8 days is a reasonable quick trip. I did the trip about 10 years ago and told myself I had all the time I wanted. Alas after 4 days I had only gone 350 of the 2400 miles. I picked up the pace and did it in 12.

There is a delightful hot springs outside Whitehorse which we have often stayed at. We found it the first time on a winter drive. It delighted us soaking in the hot pools at -20 degrees (-30C), mallard ducks overwintering in the pool swimming with me.

1990 Takhini Hot Springs ducks

We checked at going to Takhini, but it seems they have gone to a high end spa type. The old bunkhouse hostel has been turned into a high end Air B & B. I guess they don’t want our types any more. 300/night 2 night minimum. We opted for a downtown motel, and walked about Whitehorse. We found ourselves at a delightful restaurant and bar- The Dirty Northern. We ate outside in sunshine and had a couple appetizers and booze. A delightful waitress who could not give recommendations as she was only 18 and drinking age is 19.

Thus here we are in Tok, Alaska after a 385 mile day (611 KM). Not sure what is going on but hotels and restaurants are packed. Locals say it is just tourists but I have never seen crowds like this. Guess I usually camp or just don’t pay attention in the summer. Again for the third time on this trip we got the last room. It is a few miles out of town in a little cabin.

Since departing last thursday we have travelled 2162 miles (3479Km) in 5 days with 44 hours and 6 minutes of driving. Hopefully tomorrow home with about 385 miles (619 Km) left. We started with sunset at 9:05 pm in Portland and tonight the sun sets at 11:48. A bit farther north. and solstice next week. Almost forgot to write the animal count. several deer, hare, squirrels, 1 dead porcupine, 1 moose, a sow grizzly and cub, 3 fox, swans, hawks, and the list goes on.

And getting into the United States was probably the easiest time I or we have ever had. Showed passports waited 30 seconds and he said enjoy our day. ????

Roberts Lodge in Tok, Alaska

Road Trip

Posted on by J. R. Patee

What counts in life is not the mere fact we have lived.  It is what difference we have made to the lives of others that will determine the significance of the life we lead.

Nelson Mandela 

Has been an interesting beginning to summer. First an early ending to snow and what usually is called winter. And it has been cooler and rainier than usual it seems. Clouds and rain have been the norm although certainly a few days of wondrous sunshine.

Then Jeanne hit a bollard at the gas station in her beloved 13 year old Volvo, which she loved and had said it would be her last car. Unfortunately the estimates came in at $11000 and $15000. Zounds! Amazing for a 2 mph crash. I guess bumpers are not designed for bumping. It did push the wheel back a little but we drove the totaled car onto the tow truck. Then the search for a new one.

$11,000 to $15000 dollar repair. Totaled.

We have always bought our cars from down south, i.e. the lower 48, because prices are ridiculous in Alaska and dealers will not even think of meeting the price even with shipping a car to Alaska. Thus we searched all over the United States, eliminating the east because of salt, and the south because of flooding. We finally settled on a 2023 used Volvo XC 60 what they call a mini hybrid. (Mini hybrid apparently means you do not plug it in and the electric motor helps the gas motor, as opposed to a full hybrid, which plugs in, where the gas motor helps the electric, sort of). And the good part, it was in Portland Oregon which meant relatively close. But the dealer had to have it off their lot within 5 days. The dealer did not make it easy. We have purchased several cars and all were very easy – send us the money and we will send you a car or you can come get it and drive it home. Not this time. Notaries, even fingerprints, wired cash did not give us a warm fuzzy feeling of dealing with them. We almost called it off several times thinking it was scam. All this while Jeanne’s family was with us. We thought of having a friend pick it up at dealer and store it at their house near Portland for a few weeks until the timing would be better, but after the hassle of us buying it, probably would be an even bigger hassle for someone to pick it up. And the rest of summer is busy with ski jumping camp, and more visitors. Timing was and is bad.

Knik arm Anchorage, Alaska

Family left Wednesday afternoon and Thursday we were on a plane at 5 am for Portland. We arrived at 11:30 am at the dealer and picked up the car. They were very nice explaining a lot of the whatnot, doodads, bells and whistles on the car. By 12:30 we were on the road.

First visited a friend of mine, from Colorado College which we attended several decades ago. It was a great visit, although sad due to a brain tumor and she is in a nursing home on hospice care nearing the end.

Then on to the friends who had offered to pick up the car and store it for a few weeks. They served us lunch and off we drove north, getting to nearly Seattle.

New (2 year old) car for us.

Friday a breakfast with a friend who had to serve as proxy for all the friends we have in Seattle area. Departed Seattle and made it across the Canadian border easily, apologizing to the border officer for the United States current belligerence. The officer responded with “we will all get through it”. Hopefully getting back into the United States will not be a problem.

The drive up through Skagit valley was incredible. The farmland in the valleys of incredible hills and cliffs with the Fraser river running through it. Then the Thompson river with the high flow of water, made me ponder the huge hydraulics of a big river. Trains ran both sides of river and I measure one parked train at a mile long (1.6 km). Either coal or gravel it seemed.

We left the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest and went into more dry lands of sagebrush and cattle country. Made it to 100mile house where we spent the night and a surprise dinner at the German restaurant which served only kebabs, but very good ones.

Today cruised 450 miles to Hazelton covering a lot of flat ground, with delightful scenery. Always a treat to look out and see the distant horizon beckoning. I seem to never tire of that. “The horizon beckons and I must go” I believe Jack Sparrow said, in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Tonite here in New Hazelton we wanted a beer but only a liquor store and one restaurant, which happened to be a Chinese restaurant. Pilsner beers are not our favorite but that was what we had. Not quite half way, 1050 miles done 1500 to go. (1690 km and 2400 km) I had hoped to be home by Tuesday, now Saturday, don’t think we will make it. Alas, it is a wonderful drive.

100 mile house main street
New Hazleton open restaurant
Due to forest fires the usually faster alaska highway is much slower now

Summertime

Posted on by J. R. Patee

The question is not what you look at, but what you see

Henry David Thoreau

Summertime in Alaska is always greatly anticipated. Warmth, green, life abounding. It is a treat to watch the season progression. Seems whenever someone asks me what is my favorite season, somehow it always seems to be the season we are currently in. I love the changes and advancement, although I might take an exception to springtime. It drags on and is often muddy and dirty, as the snow melts and the misled garbage and dirt from the winter makes its appearance. This past year was weird as we had very little snow, and when it melted the leaves and green were yet weeks away. We got an extra month of brown. But now we are in full summer. Someone once told me Alaska in the summertime is just various shades of green everywhere.

Years ago I had worked In Barrow, now Utqiagvik, at 71 degrees north. I returned to Fairbanks the first of June and had been in snow, ice, since October. I remember flying in and my eyeballs hurt from suddenly seeing green, and the smell. Oh the smell was incredible.

But now summer is in full swing, and there is an extra energy about. Hence the boat tour in Southeast Alaska, and trails opening up. And people begin coming out more. I am surprised every year by how much more activity there is in the summer. More people, more cars on the road, and of course what would Alaska be without visitors.

Jeanne’s family has not been here to visit in 25 years and it was time. This past week we have been hosting their visit. Jeanne’s sister, brother-in-law, niece, husband, 5 year old son, nephew, and Jeanne and I. Of course we want to show off our home, and I think we have been doing a fair job of doing that. Glen Alps hiking, Eklutna Lake viewing, the Amoosement Park in Palmer, Thunderbird Falls hike, Musk Ox farm, glacier and wildlife boat tour out of Whittier, Kincaid Park, and now in Seward.

Yesterday Jeanne and I dropped the family at the Anchorage train station at 6 am where they proceeded on the 5 hour trip via Grandview to Seward. Jeanne and I drove in the absolutely pouring rain arriving a few hours after they did. (We had some business to do, delaying our departure). A visit to the Sealife Center, where the aquarium is I feel a great experience for viewing wildlife, not exactly in the wild but one can see the puffins, guillemots, and murres swimming underwater, and the harbor seals, and sealions. I confess my favorite was the aquarium of seemingly empty sea water, but when you put a magnifying lens to it, the zooplankton were swimming about. Plus the intertidal touch ponds, and lots of information. Not like the real thing but certainly easier than reality to access.

Today we will walk the beach a bit, depending on rain, then we will go to Exit glacier, for annual check of how far back the glacier has receded. Amazing to think of the glacier face on the river plain and one could touch it (safely). Now it has melted back miles and lost hundreds of feet of depth. Amazing to see. We always tell people if you want to see glaciers do it now, because they won’t be here in the not so distant future. Absolutely amazing phenomenon, although I find most things in nature phenomenal.

Nobbe, Lakey, Molitor, and Patee clan
And looking to the Northwest with a view of Anchorage and Denali if you can see through the clouds.

Amoosement Park
Backyard moose real
Thunderbird falls
Sealife Center
Receding Glaciers Cascade, Barry, and Cox. When I first went there the three were connected.
Cascade and Barry Glacier in 1989.

It is a treat to show off our home. It falls into the category of it may not be perfect, but for me, this is a pretty amazing place to live.

Boat travel

Posted on by J. R. Patee

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Quite a week a one week boat cruise, although not as one thinks a Cruise. This was a relatively small boat. 37 passengers as opposed to a 3000 passenger trip. Boarded in Sitka alaska and cruised for 7days. When it was over one of the crew asked what was best part of the week. I had to think, always a tough proposition. A sow brown bear with2cubs, only to be bested by a sow with 3 cubs, only to be bested by humpback whales, only to be bested by orca whales, only to be bested by sea lion rookery with them checking us out closely (read keep your hands inside the skiff, only to bested by the orcas breaching next to the boat, to be bested by the mountain goat feeding just above a humpback cruising below, along with tufted puffins, and all interspersed with glaciers, fjords, hiking, kayaking, swimming. What was best?

Thinking about it I had to think it was the crew serving us. Their enthusiasm for not only serving our incredible meals, but their enthusiasm for being there, and seeing what we were seeing, answering never ending questions, or finding the answer. People who have a passion for what they are doing. People who work well together from the captain, to the chef, to the servers, to the boat crew whether they be full rated mates or the deckhands.

Admiralty Dream
One week travel
Brown bear and cubs
Orca photo by Margret Fleming
Tufted puffins photo by Jan Whelan
Sea otter and flounder catch photo by Jan Whelan
Skiff crew Ed and Carley
Dawes glacier remains
Barb and Steve after 38F (4 degrees C) swim
Tlingit cultural presenters in Kake, Alaska. Story almost as good as the bedtime stories told vey night by Bailey, the expedition leader, every night aboard the Admiralty Dream at 9:15 pm

Finally again

Posted on by J. R. Patee

You are perfectly cast in your life.  I can’t imagine anyone but you in the role.  Go play.

Lin-Manuel Miranda 

Has been a while in writing and I confess remiss.  AS they say “My bad”

But here we are in Sitka Alaska prepping for a cruise.  We have turned into cruise people I guess.  Well this one is a 49 passenger 8 day trip through Southeast Alaska.   It covers a lot of the area Jeanne and I kayaked in 8 weeks back in 1992 on our “honeymoon” trip.  I suspect people will tire of Jeanne and I telling stories of a particular area.  We are excited and have already been reliving memories of that awesome trip.

Sitka totem park pioneer home 1992

2025

Sitka has quite the history first with local Tlingit Natives and various native tribes, then invasion by the Russians for furs in early 1700’s. The Tlingits took back the area in 1802, but the Russians retook it in 1804. In 1867, Russian having overextended itself transferred its colonies and holdings to the United States. Although a price was paid of 7 million dollars it was never sold, because they never owned it. It was native land, which never became actually realized until 1971 with the Alaska Native claims settlement act. History is crazy. As one movie said history is “just the story of one bloody thing after another”.

Sitka itself is a hodgepodge of historical and modern stuff. The russian church, still active, the battlefields, the bishops house, the castle on hill now gone, and the totem park which we visit again this afternoon. Currently lots of tourists off the cruise ships. Interesting as there are advertisements all over to vote for or against limiting the numbers. The current ship holds 3000 passengers and a 1000 crew, into a town of 6000. the sidewalks are packed with folks walking gift shop to gift shop.

Next day and we again walked to totem pole park and walked about the wood and big trees.

Delightful day with lunch at food truck of fish tacos, and dinner of salmon cooked to perfection. One little incident where i was asked politely where from and when told I was from Anchorage, their response was I am sorry. Funny how people hate Anchorage because it is the big bad city. And we walked downtime fighting our way through the crowds of tourists.

Sitka has an election coming up to limit the tourists to 100,000 a year. Last year they had 300,000 in a town of 6000.

Thoughts on trains

Posted on by J. R. Patee

The Beauty of life is to be outside the box, so that the box doesn’t exist…. to limit a human being to one mode of expression is really a crime.

Herbie Hancock

It’s been almost three weeks since we got back from our trip, and I still have a lot of questions.

1: Would I do it again?

I highly recommend taking the train, but maybe not for an extended trip like we did. Jeanne mentioned that the trip started to feel a bit monotonous, day after day, not really exploring but just taking short breaks. But we also realized that the purpose wasn’t necessarily to visit specific places and focus on them, but rather to circumnavigate and see the entire country, not just a portion. Where does that stop and start? Why just the United States? Well, there are so many amazing places to explore!

I’d still highly recommend taking the train if you have the time. When you’re in a hurry, it’s easy to miss out on all the cool stuff along the way. For example, driving from Alaska to the lower 48 states takes at least 3 days, and it’s even better if you take your time and enjoy the scenery. But when you fly, you miss out on all the amazing sights and experiences. It still remains the most memorable train ride experience, of my life, was the Australian train the Indian-Pacific. We woke crossing the Nullarbor desert, at sunrise watching the red kangaroos race the train. One does not see that from an airplane.

Seeing the country was absolutely stunning. Cruising along at often 80mph (125 kph) gave you vistas, forests, lakes, rivers, industrial areas, backyards, cityscapes not necessarily seen from cars or airplanes. We definitely enjoyed viewing the various agricultural bounty as we traversed the country. Seemingly never-ending fields of wheat, corn, soybeans, potatoes, sugarcane, cotton, pecan trees, and unknown green stuff. Human industry at its best.

Cruising through the towns, villages, and cities gave a perspective unlike driving in a car. Where people live is interesting, how a town is laid out, why the houses are built like that, what activities do the people partake in. All reasonably guessed at by seeing the layout and accommodations in the yards. In a car, you are paying attention to the road, what is happening in the car , and how long until you arrive. The railroad is the journey.

As for airplanes, I did have a friend describe an airliner as a time capsule. You walk in, sit down, tap your feet for a few hours, get out, and you are somewhere else entirely.

When we talked with others on the trains, we asked why the train and not flying. We expected a common answer would be afraid to fly. Not once did that come up, but usually the answer was much more relaxed by train. No hassles with airports, no lines, no standing or sitting around, no security fuss.

But trains are not problem-free. Being, shall we say, older, I do not sleep as well vertically as I used to. When I fly long haul, I seem to require stops along the way. Instead of just changing planes, I will stop for the night and stay in a close motel or hotel; otherwise, I arrive exhausted and lose days trying to catch up. Maybe I am spoiled, being retired, but that is my travel. Enjoy the journey and I find airplane travel not as fun as it used to be.

Hence, we got the sleeping car. Not knowing how it worked, we opted for the cheaper mode – a roomette. Turns out that is good for one, although there is an upper bunk. A bedroom with slightly more room would be better for 2. Then there is the family room, but that was way too much for us. We wanted to just sleep there, not live there. The cost of a sleeper is exorbitant.

And that was the major problem. Expense! This was a very expensive trip! It cost just over $10,000 ($6,500 for the train, rest in hotels in Chicago and New York). That makes no sense to me. I do not know where the money goes, but I find it hard to believe operating a train is more expensive than a plane. There are subsidies out there of which I am unaware. One gets the distinct feeling passenger trains are low on the totem pole. Texas has turned down a fast train from Houston to Dallas numerous times, not believing in mass transit.

2: What did I learn?

A: In the United States, capitalism is the economy. OK, that makes sense, but making money has become the end-all. Years ago, Jeanne and I did a 4-month kayak trip and learned some towns definitely wanted your money, but sometimes forgot to give something in return. Oops, forgot! We remember some places for their ability to extract money and not for the memories of the town. Much the same now, but “they have gotten better and trickier at ability too extract money.

Our first experience with the train was the website. We were curious as to the cost, but could not find prices. Turns out the train is like airlines: they use demand pricing. You can’t get a price until you are ready to book. Earlier is better. Two couples we talked to paid $400 different for exactly the same thing but booked 10 minutes apart.

The Shedd Aquarium in Chicago did that for Marathon Weekend. Normally $35 entry, but Marathon Weekend $50, which is primarily why we did not go. No wonder “rich” people get along easier.

And we discovered in today’s world “they” sneak things into a bill. The Chicago hotel charged us $50 for a late checkout – which they conveniently did not mention, only noted later. Or a gratuity automatically added, or employee health benefit cost added separately. I never noted the cost of electricity or building maintenance on a bill.

I used to use the phone to find nearby places to eat, but it turned difficult as I would google places to eat near me and the closest would be a 1/2 mile away while we were standing in front of one. I learned to pay attention.

B: I learned what a large, incredibly diverse country we live in. The variety was awesome. That alone was one of the best parts. New York City, just walking the streets, was a lesson in diversity. Our guide for the 9/11 tour was 30 years old and did not know how to drive. She had never had a need. (She said our tips were going to pay for her driving lessons.) The food truck fellow from Egypt, the guide from Eritrea, the Jewish neighborhood in Baltimore. And the train, talking with various people, the Amish joining the train somewhere in the Midwest to go to a wedding, the musician traveling through the South to Houston, searching for a life beyond his past. The employees of the train, all from different backgrounds and hard-working, all. They do long hours and days with a smile.

C: As noted earlier, trains seem to take the short shrift. In the United States, freight gets precedence over passengers, often causing us to sit at a siding waiting for a freight train.

One could see this in the modern train stations. Houston and San Antonio had torn down their train stations and built bus terminals. Most of the elaborate train stations were relics of the past. Beautiful works of art, comfortable and functional.

3: Which was my favorite part?

People can be amazing!

That is difficult, depending on which part I am thinking about currently. My favorite train, although to call it a favorite does major injustice to the other sections, would be the Coast Starlight up the California coast. But the Sunset Limited from Louisiana to Los Angeles ranks in there, with the bayous, then the deserts. The Empire Builder from Portland to Chicago was spectacular, going from the mountains, to plains, to forests. The trip along the Great Lakes, I suspect, is spectacular, as is the Crescent train along the Appalachians, but they were at night, hence I cannot say much about that.

East coast trains, east of Chicago to New Orleans, were dirtier and I would say less friendly, although I am not sure how to describe that.

All in all, I enjoyed the trip, but like many things, I am very glad I did it, but do not need to repeat it. I would definitely do sections though.

I am glad I have the ability to enjoy it.

And next – the Zephyr train from San Francisco to denver sounds amazing if during the day, or the City of New Orleans from Chicago to New Orleans. Options and ideas.

For now though I am excited for the next adventure which is to stay home and enjoy winter here. Bike season is here, ski season, and just enjoying the sanctuary of home.

And for those still awake I posted a video of our travels on youtube. Hopefully it can be found on the youtube website https://www.youtube.com/@JRPatee

Coastal starlight

Posted on by J. R. Patee

In seeking truth you have to get both sides of the story.

Walter Cronkite

Oh my gosh. I have an additional must do thing before you die. This train the “coastal starlight” is amazing. It is our last train finishing this little circumnavigation and it is great. I had seen pictures of it along the coast but reality is always different. About Ventura, California we arrived and cruised for hours along the coast. The Pacific Ocean was calm but even so, surfers, picnickers,walkers bikers all enjoying the day.

Great to see as we move north the variety of farming. During this trip we have had wheat, corn, soybeans, cotton, sugar cane, pecans, and then in California lots of green fields of who knows what, lettuce, strawberries, grapes, oranges, I suspect alfalfa. Lots of unknown as there are no signs along the way.

Fields of ???
Ciastal srarlight observation
Coast

The Backing up a bit in time, to Los Angeles, we had thought it would be just a 3 hour layover and change trains from the “sunset limited” from Tucson to the coastal starlight. We arrived 1/2 hour early so 5 am and a 09:51 departure. Dropped our bags in lounge and I went for a walk. 2 days before the Los Angeles dodgers won the World Series, and they arrived home to celebrate. Seems there was to be a parade and people were arriving to begin festivities at 6 am. People arriving on trains and heading to dodger stadium.

And several parks in area with dia de Los mujertos tributes. Then oliveras street an old section of LA with numerous vendors, only a few open but very crowded with morning revellers wanting breakfast. Lots of good energy.

Dia de Los mujertos

Back to the station and our last breakfast burrito. Onto the train enjoying the graffiti and travels north.

Our last night on board and had the usual gyrations, and stretches into awkward positions achieving a great night of sleep. Awoke in the dark, but figured sunrise would be soon, so gyrate from bunk down to the observation car. Mt Shasta soon appeared. Then into snow and tall rainy trees in Oregon.

Mr Shasta
Chemult, oregon

What have I learned? What was best? Would I do it again? Good questions and without answers. I have answers but they only apply to this particular moment and not in half hour. Ask me then!