Thoughts on trains

The Beauty of life is to be outside the box, so that the box doesn’t exist…. to limit a human being to one mode of expression is really a crime.

Herbie Hancock

It’s been almost three weeks since we got back from our trip, and I still have a lot of questions.

1: Would I do it again?

I highly recommend taking the train, but maybe not for an extended trip like we did. Jeanne mentioned that the trip started to feel a bit monotonous, day after day, not really exploring but just taking short breaks. But we also realized that the purpose wasn’t necessarily to visit specific places and focus on them, but rather to circumnavigate and see the entire country, not just a portion. Where does that stop and start? Why just the United States? Well, there are so many amazing places to explore!

I’d still highly recommend taking the train if you have the time. When you’re in a hurry, it’s easy to miss out on all the cool stuff along the way. For example, driving from Alaska to the lower 48 states takes at least 3 days, and it’s even better if you take your time and enjoy the scenery. But when you fly, you miss out on all the amazing sights and experiences. It still remains the most memorable train ride experience, of my life, was the Australian train the Indian-Pacific. We woke crossing the Nullarbor desert, at sunrise watching the red kangaroos race the train. One does not see that from an airplane.

Seeing the country was absolutely stunning. Cruising along at often 80mph (125 kph) gave you vistas, forests, lakes, rivers, industrial areas, backyards, cityscapes not necessarily seen from cars or airplanes. We definitely enjoyed viewing the various agricultural bounty as we traversed the country. Seemingly never-ending fields of wheat, corn, soybeans, potatoes, sugarcane, cotton, pecan trees, and unknown green stuff. Human industry at its best.

Cruising through the towns, villages, and cities gave a perspective unlike driving in a car. Where people live is interesting, how a town is laid out, why the houses are built like that, what activities do the people partake in. All reasonably guessed at by seeing the layout and accommodations in the yards. In a car, you are paying attention to the road, what is happening in the car , and how long until you arrive. The railroad is the journey.

As for airplanes, I did have a friend describe an airliner as a time capsule. You walk in, sit down, tap your feet for a few hours, get out, and you are somewhere else entirely.

When we talked with others on the trains, we asked why the train and not flying. We expected a common answer would be afraid to fly. Not once did that come up, but usually the answer was much more relaxed by train. No hassles with airports, no lines, no standing or sitting around, no security fuss.

But trains are not problem-free. Being, shall we say, older, I do not sleep as well vertically as I used to. When I fly long haul, I seem to require stops along the way. Instead of just changing planes, I will stop for the night and stay in a close motel or hotel; otherwise, I arrive exhausted and lose days trying to catch up. Maybe I am spoiled, being retired, but that is my travel. Enjoy the journey and I find airplane travel not as fun as it used to be.

Hence, we got the sleeping car. Not knowing how it worked, we opted for the cheaper mode – a roomette. Turns out that is good for one, although there is an upper bunk. A bedroom with slightly more room would be better for 2. Then there is the family room, but that was way too much for us. We wanted to just sleep there, not live there. The cost of a sleeper is exorbitant.

And that was the major problem. Expense! This was a very expensive trip! It cost just over $10,000 ($6,500 for the train, rest in hotels in Chicago and New York). That makes no sense to me. I do not know where the money goes, but I find it hard to believe operating a train is more expensive than a plane. There are subsidies out there of which I am unaware. One gets the distinct feeling passenger trains are low on the totem pole. Texas has turned down a fast train from Houston to Dallas numerous times, not believing in mass transit.

2: What did I learn?

A: In the United States, capitalism is the economy. OK, that makes sense, but making money has become the end-all. Years ago, Jeanne and I did a 4-month kayak trip and learned some towns definitely wanted your money, but sometimes forgot to give something in return. Oops, forgot! We remember some places for their ability to extract money and not for the memories of the town. Much the same now, but “they have gotten better and trickier at ability too extract money.

Our first experience with the train was the website. We were curious as to the cost, but could not find prices. Turns out the train is like airlines: they use demand pricing. You can’t get a price until you are ready to book. Earlier is better. Two couples we talked to paid $400 different for exactly the same thing but booked 10 minutes apart.

The Shedd Aquarium in Chicago did that for Marathon Weekend. Normally $35 entry, but Marathon Weekend $50, which is primarily why we did not go. No wonder “rich” people get along easier.

And we discovered in today’s world “they” sneak things into a bill. The Chicago hotel charged us $50 for a late checkout – which they conveniently did not mention, only noted later. Or a gratuity automatically added, or employee health benefit cost added separately. I never noted the cost of electricity or building maintenance on a bill.

I used to use the phone to find nearby places to eat, but it turned difficult as I would google places to eat near me and the closest would be a 1/2 mile away while we were standing in front of one. I learned to pay attention.

B: I learned what a large, incredibly diverse country we live in. The variety was awesome. That alone was one of the best parts. New York City, just walking the streets, was a lesson in diversity. Our guide for the 9/11 tour was 30 years old and did not know how to drive. She had never had a need. (She said our tips were going to pay for her driving lessons.) The food truck fellow from Egypt, the guide from Eritrea, the Jewish neighborhood in Baltimore. And the train, talking with various people, the Amish joining the train somewhere in the Midwest to go to a wedding, the musician traveling through the South to Houston, searching for a life beyond his past. The employees of the train, all from different backgrounds and hard-working, all. They do long hours and days with a smile.

C: As noted earlier, trains seem to take the short shrift. In the United States, freight gets precedence over passengers, often causing us to sit at a siding waiting for a freight train.

One could see this in the modern train stations. Houston and San Antonio had torn down their train stations and built bus terminals. Most of the elaborate train stations were relics of the past. Beautiful works of art, comfortable and functional.

3: Which was my favorite part?

People can be amazing!

That is difficult, depending on which part I am thinking about currently. My favorite train, although to call it a favorite does major injustice to the other sections, would be the Coast Starlight up the California coast. But the Sunset Limited from Louisiana to Los Angeles ranks in there, with the bayous, then the deserts. The Empire Builder from Portland to Chicago was spectacular, going from the mountains, to plains, to forests. The trip along the Great Lakes, I suspect, is spectacular, as is the Crescent train along the Appalachians, but they were at night, hence I cannot say much about that.

East coast trains, east of Chicago to New Orleans, were dirtier and I would say less friendly, although I am not sure how to describe that.

All in all, I enjoyed the trip, but like many things, I am very glad I did it, but do not need to repeat it. I would definitely do sections though.

I am glad I have the ability to enjoy it.

And next – the Zephyr train from San Francisco to denver sounds amazing if during the day, or the City of New Orleans from Chicago to New Orleans. Options and ideas.

For now though I am excited for the next adventure which is to stay home and enjoy winter here. Bike season is here, ski season, and just enjoying the sanctuary of home.

And for those still awake I posted a video of our travels on youtube. Hopefully it can be found on the youtube website https://www.youtube.com/@JRPatee

Coastal starlight

In seeking truth you have to get both sides of the story.

Walter Cronkite

Oh my gosh. I have an additional must do thing before you die. This train the “coastal starlight” is amazing. It is our last train finishing this little circumnavigation and it is great. I had seen pictures of it along the coast but reality is always different. About Ventura, California we arrived and cruised for hours along the coast. The Pacific Ocean was calm but even so, surfers, picnickers,walkers bikers all enjoying the day.

Great to see as we move north the variety of farming. During this trip we have had wheat, corn, soybeans, cotton, sugar cane, pecans, and then in California lots of green fields of who knows what, lettuce, strawberries, grapes, oranges, I suspect alfalfa. Lots of unknown as there are no signs along the way.

Fields of ???
Ciastal srarlight observation
Coast

The Backing up a bit in time, to Los Angeles, we had thought it would be just a 3 hour layover and change trains from the “sunset limited” from Tucson to the coastal starlight. We arrived 1/2 hour early so 5 am and a 09:51 departure. Dropped our bags in lounge and I went for a walk. 2 days before the Los Angeles dodgers won the World Series, and they arrived home to celebrate. Seems there was to be a parade and people were arriving to begin festivities at 6 am. People arriving on trains and heading to dodger stadium.

And several parks in area with dia de Los mujertos tributes. Then oliveras street an old section of LA with numerous vendors, only a few open but very crowded with morning revellers wanting breakfast. Lots of good energy.

Dia de Los mujertos

Back to the station and our last breakfast burrito. Onto the train enjoying the graffiti and travels north.

Our last night on board and had the usual gyrations, and stretches into awkward positions achieving a great night of sleep. Awoke in the dark, but figured sunrise would be soon, so gyrate from bunk down to the observation car. Mt Shasta soon appeared. Then into snow and tall rainy trees in Oregon.

Mr Shasta
Chemult, oregon

What have I learned? What was best? Would I do it again? Good questions and without answers. I have answers but they only apply to this particular moment and not in half hour. Ask me then!

Tucson

We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started, and know the place for the first time

T.S. Elliot

A wondrous ride into Tucson, continuing through the Chiahuahuan desert and now into the Sonoran desert, arriving 15 minutes early and our friends just arriving same time. A drive to their beautiful home purchased a few years ago. They had lived in Alaska for years but time to become snowbirds. Camille more than Joe. He loves it here year round, Camille loves it in winter but the heat bothers her. Alas I do believe there is no perfect place. Tucson’s personality seems to be desert, although people have not necessarily adapted to the desert. They still maintain a daytime routine standard american life. But it is beautiful.

Their home is delightful, roomy and a backyard landscaped as all yards here in desert motive. They removed the scrub when moved in and planted a variety of cactus and plants. There is a patio in the back which is incredible for looking at stars, the sky, and sitting and drinking coffee in the morning watching and feeling the sunrise. Sunrise over the Rincon mountains to the east, with blasts of the first sun onto the Santa Catalinas and Mt Lemon, rising 9170 feet above sea level. (2795 meters). Sunset show alpenglow over the Catalinas. I love it, with desert down here.

And in true American style the home owners association spends its time worrying what other people do. Joe and Camille have received a notice their blue painted door does not fit the color scheme. They put a screen door up which semi hides the blue. Then they received a notice they had weeds in the ravel in front yard. The weeds seem to be local wildflowers, but obviously unacceptable, thus Joe took a weed burner to them. Unfortunately the flame touched the saguaro and a streak now runs up one side. Then while we were there they received a notice that second 3 meter saguaro which had blown over in a wind storm was unacceptable. It was tipped at a 45 degree angle. Nice to have people worry about what you do.

I feel like I am getting my desert time while here. I walk about and feel like I am hovering over a coral reef, discovering the numerous numbers of plants and signs of animals, but I do not have to be below the surface of the water.

Backyard Panorama
Backyard to house

Monday, Camille had made reservations at the mirror lab, no one really sure why the mirror lab was. I thought being around halloween a house of mirrors. Au contraire! It was the most amazing place ever, and possibly the highlight of trip for me. Turns out the University of Arizona is one of the leading universities exploring the universe, cosmology, astronomy and such. The mirror lab is making the the mirrors for some of the largest telescopes made, including the 24 meter Magellan telescope to be place near the Atacamba desert in Chile. We had a 2 hours tour starting with a lecture of its history and the process of making an 8 meter mirror with a reflective surface within 3-5 nanometers discrepancy. As they noted your fingernails have grown more than that in the time you have read this paragraph. As it happens I have been reading a Scientific American magazine about black holes and the current knowledge theories, and it includes the physical entities of that exploration which includes the upcoming Magellan telescope. I was fascinated. Someday we may know where we came from and where we are going.

Area where mirror is placed for measuring surface discrepancy.
Area where packaging occurs and movement from mirror parabola blank moved to polishing.

During the time here I have had yet another birthday celebration. I try to avoid them because apparently my grandparents died of too many birthdays, but people insist on celebrating. I am now old enough to not count in years but centuries, hence I am 3/4 old.

The rest of time we spent here with our friends delighting in their yard and house, and going hiking or biking every day. Sometimes difficult as we tended to wait until noon or so and hot, alas we cannot change our ways. But delightful hikes and bikes, interspersed with incredible meals.

A common activity – eating
Roads of Sagauaro national park
legal bike trails of Saguaro national Park
Flora and Fauna
Sonoran dogs a local treat
Hiking
Potential xmas card
Cactus flowers
chola – everything in the desert has a point
Internal structure of dried out prickly pear cactus
Internal Structure of Saguaro cactus

And so we are moving on. A yet another delightful meal with Joe and Camille and drop us off at train, where we just walked on. It was dark so not much to see except lights of the freeway . Arrived here in Los Angeles for a 4 hour layover, before catching the “coast starlight” train to Portland where we began a few weeks ago. The tv here in lounge is giving us updates on freeway conditions and preparations for today’s parade of baseball team LA dodgers. Fortunately it starts 2 hour after our departure, but despite the darkness we can her the helicopters, and cars prepping.

Los Angeles Amtrak union station lobby