The story of life is quicker
Than the wink of an eye
The story of love is hello and goodbye
Until we meet again
Ok arose yesterday morn packed and ready, but a bit of a headache. Weird as rest day yesterday and this headache was a bit different but whatever. Took a diamox for potential altitude sickness although feeling no ill effects. Off we went through the alleys and narrow paths between buildings and began climbing. Up up and up. Rose 300 meters (about a thousand feet) in 5 kilometers: in other words we all pushed a lot. I did practice carrying bike which I had porters build me a special head strap for the bike.
Then got to ride intermittantly, but I began to slow and my demons began to emerge in my thoughts. Why am I doing this? What the heck is the use of this. I mentioned the thoughts to Bridget who I was walking with and she agreed. We said we felt we just wanted to get this trip over and two weeks later begin planning something more horrendous. Paul though said it has been proven that when one goes on vacation one loses several IQ points. Oh the human mind.
But I began to slow and cough more. I had been coughing at night, blaming it on riding in Kathmandu pollution. (Horrible and dumb to not wear a mask) at least it was green and not red. But it worsened and I was slowing more. Once Junga came back and offered to push my bike. Normally I would resent that, but I gladly accepted. Then I pushed over some very rideable fun single track. Then climbed and slowly 7.5 hours after leaving and 15 kilometers came near Thorong Phedi one of the highest camps before the pass. Paul came down and pushed my bike. I was done in but then we all were. I went inside building and all our group face down on table.
I rested a bit, helped the porters put up tents climbed in and laid out futzing with gear. After about 45 min call came for soup ready and I began to climb out of tent trying to put on shoes which were proving troublesome. I had one on and Buck came over saying he had a doc with him to just check on me. I sat there and gave my story he said normally one should be breathing more normal after 10 minutes rest. I was as exhausted as just after the ride and breathing at 36 per minute. He said my lips were a bit blue. I finally got my other shoe on and he had me walk heel toe straight line which I definitely had trouble with. He recommended I go down
I sort of expected this because I felt miserable, but the words kicked me. Buck asked Kami about delays and he said not really possible. Sometimes I hate commercial trips, no room for change. The decision was mine: I asked about in the morning as 4:15 and dark at 6:30. Doc said decision mine but that would be bad as altitude sickness can progress rapidly especially at night. Basically I could die overnight.
I asked for help from the group and again words even the simplest and not profound words sometimes have the most meaning. Michelle said “I would rather have you alive than dead”
I thought ok then said oh this will be a great downhill ride. Immediately the doc, Buck, and Kami said absolutly not. A porter would push my bike carry my duffle bag and his stuff, and probably be out of a job when we got down.
Thus I threw gear together as now 4:15 and time to go. I felt lousy mentally and physically. Tears were held back amongst many of us. My planned Nepal trip was over.
Only maybe 50 meters done and Michelle yelled down something and all I could do was barely raise my trekking pole in acknowledgement. I was exhausted and starting a 15 kilometer trek which I had just come up. 2 hours til dark.
But amazing every step down felt better. Headache had worsened during the day and still very painful and continuing to hack up a lung, but every meter down felt good. By 7 pm we had made about 9 k and was very dark. Passed s hotel still open and I decided best to stop. We got some rooms and I felt a bit better. I was still coughing but much less, and headache diminished.
Morning came and began the steep descent into Manang and I felt good but tired. Gangapurna rises above us 3000 meters above with its magnificent hanging glaciers, ridges, icefalls with Annapurna 4 just to the north. Guess I won’t see Annapurna 1 this trip.
trek outThen as we descended going below 4000 meters I realized I was feeling a lot better, but legs were quite sore. Also the morning rush of trekkers was coming up; questioning why I was going backward. ( the circuit is usually done in a counterclockwise direction). I began to now realize I was on a new trip. It is over two weeks before flight home. Why rush home just because I have no plan here.
Rakees ( my porter) speaks only a few words of English so was difficult to figure out anything. But we managed. I was thinking riding back to besishahar where we started, but had a big bag, porter and exhausted legs to deal with. A couple from Norway suggested a jeep out (there is a road now, which we rode in) duh but I had ridden 15 kilometers at the start in jeep and it was wild, and took 4 hours. This is over 85 kilometers and well I will just say scary.
Rakees immediately went to find jeep on arrival, but not available. Whew. I was already beat and might like a rest day. He found one available for tomorrow at 7 am. Will take all day and be prepared to bounce, sway, and get thrown around in an overcrowded vehicle he motioned. Sign me up.
Apparently in peak season in about 3 weeks a thousand people a day cross Thorong la and 1 a day will develop altitude sickness.
Went to Himalayan rescue clinic just to check in. Talked with them and numerous others and one generally never sleeps more the 500 meters higher than night before. We had been doing a thousand.
Turns out the doc yesterday was just a trekker (but also a doc) but when I told story they verified good decisions. I attended the altitude lecture given by the docs at Himalayan rescue center. Great lecture and again learned a lot. They said would probably be ok to hang around here and hike and enjoy Manang but going lower would also be a good decision. These mountains have been around for 500 million years and will probably be around for quite a while. I can return.