Winter activity

The pleasure lies not in discovering truth

But in searching for it.

Leo Tolstoy 

Winter has arrived in Anchorage. Fall was one of the warmest on record and it just seemed to never cool down. The grass remained green. It was time to progress to winter according to the usual standards. I remember in 1995 we could ski out our door, on 5 October. OK I admit a bit of any anomaly but I declared that is the way it should be. Has not happened since and since the turn of the century, winter is often questionable. It is depressing. We had the SAD light out every morning, and the sunrise came later every day. Finally a trip to Seattle, and when we returned there was snow, and it cooled down. Amazing how our spirits rose. Not only was there snow, and I mean usable skiable snow, but it provided white to reflect the light at night and brighten things up. Our mental attitude vastly improved. Then it got cold, meaning winter was finally here. I say winter consists of three things – dark, cold and snow. If you only have dark that just does not cut it.

Zak melting snow off the snow gun with a propane torch. Last winter November 2024

I volunteer at the ski jumps, and making snow in the fall is a big deal, given the last years of warming trends. Last year, being one of the worst on record for warmups, we had to make snow 4 times, as it melted 3 times with horrible warmups, warm temperatures, and often wind, and sometimes rain, destroying the hard work.

January 13 2025 last winter, after a severe warmup. We did ice skate on it, but no skiing

This year though it got cold and the small downhill ski area near here (Hilltop ski area) and next to the ski jumps began blowing snow. Making snow is a process of spraying huge amounts of water under pressure to build the piles of snow needed. The temperature has to be below 25 degrees F. ( about -6 C) otherwise just water sprays out. The colder the better. At the ski jumps we use the Hilltop water from a local creek but there is only so much they can pump. They have a much larger area to cover and it takes a lot of time, as well as they require almost a meter to cover the lumps, bumps and rocks in the ground, as well as provide enough for potential meltdowns later. Their business model is a bit different than ours so they get preference, as it is their water. (They have to make money, we have to provide fun and activity) Hence when they get enough to cover enough area to open the area for a run or two of skiing, they then let us use one of thirty water connections. It works out good, as we need 3-4 days to cover our area and they require weeks. Good neighbors.

As Hilltop made enough snow for one good run, it was time for us, and it warmed up. Ugh. All snow making ceased. The natural snow and snow they had made remained but no snow making, until it cooled off. Temps went up to the mid 40s (8-9 C)

But after weeks of fretting and worrying, it cooled off again this time cold. The director of the ski jump program, Zak, gave clearance to start making snow. When one starts blowing snow it is a continuous process. Lay out the hoses and electrical cord, and get the snow gun in place. That takes about an hour, as the hoses are 50-150 feet long (15-45 meters) and we lay out nearly 500 feet (150 meters). When the water starts flowing at up to 100 gallons a minute (375 liters/ minute), if for whatever reason it gets turned off or stops flowing it can freeze in the hose within minutes, thus once you stop making snow it is continuous because to shut down is about a 2 hour process, taking hoses back and hanging them to drain and dry.

Ski trails near ski jumps. Awesome cross country skiing and biking

I love volunteering because I get to do useful work and get to do all sorts of stuff I never get to normally do. Plumbing, electrical, carpentry, design, and see the smiles and joy as the kids reap the rewards. Not only physical but mentally with figuring out how things work. We have what one calls a shoestring budget, and everything is very dear in terms of money, hence we are the crew.

The mental aspect is great as we have to not only figure out how to do something, but how to do it safely. Working with heavy equipment, in the cold has its potential problems. Not only is the water at way below freezing temperature, but the snow gun uses 440 volts and has its issues also, as well as the ski jumps have a 35 degree slope to contend with.

Over the years Zak and I have learned some tricks to make it safer and easier, and less tiring. Used to be when we blew snow one had to go and ski pack it closely after it was made, otherwise a hard crust would form over hollow snow. Then we obtained a snow cat 12000 pounds (5400 Kg) of tracked compaction and grooming capacity. One can blow snow into a pile and push it around and smooth it out. Wonderous labor saving device. And hilltop ski area has a night crew so the past two years Zak and I can set the gun for the night and they have offered to watch it. (Requires a minimum of every 2 hour verifying the water is flowing correctly and the fan and compressor are working.) Hence we can go home and sleep and not have to catnap on the floor, as in past.

Karl Eid Ski Jump Complex
Snowcat on the outrun pushing snow to appropriate location
Natasha and Jeanne brought dinner to the area

But we began setting up last Thursday and began blowing on Friday. We worked the gun, moving it around as necessary to the appropriate location. It is easier and more efficient to blow in places needed, rather than drag it around. We hoped to be done by Tuesday.

Approaching sunrise after a night of blowing snow. 8:45 am

All worked well, and the small 10 and 20 meter jumps were covered with about a foot of compacted snow (30 cm) . Zak, Natasha (another ski jumping coach) dragged the snow gun up the 40 meter hill pulling the water lines and electrical extension cord along with. It took a huge amount of work to get it down as it had to be pulled down through the new snow. Then the 65 meter hill ( which has a length of 120 meters, plus the runout area).

Working the machine down the 40 meter hill. It is stuck.
Working end of snow gun. Compressed water shoots out the nozzles and is blown by a meter wide fan, blowing it 10-30 meters, allowing the water to freeze hopefully before it hits the ground.

Monday we started working it up the 65 meter hill. We were counting down the distance remaining to go. Then with 35 meters to go (moving it 20 meters at a time) I was working on the hill pulling the water and electrical lines out from under the snow, when there was a loud pop, and the electricity cutoff, only water shooting out of the snow gun. I climbed the hill and turned on the power again, returning to get the lines out from the area now being covered by ice. This time though when I grabbed the extension cord it popped and sparks flew. I later told the boss of Hilltop ski area I was getting bored and his response was “well 480 volts will give you some excitement”)” this time it did not restart as the system had shorted and fuses blown. We had to shut down. Turn off the water, and drain hoses and fix extension cord.

Results of shorting out a 440 volt extension cord. (Lesson learned do not pull the line on extension cords, use the end pieces designed for disconnecting)
an hour after sunset Pix at 4:30 pm. Mt Redoubt.

It took all day Tuesday to repair the line as one has to work systematically in order to find the correct area. Turns out it was on the cord of machine and could not get the broken piece down hill or inside to warmth, thus had to work outside in temperatures around -4 F (-20 C) with fine detail work. Fun! or what I call fun! Why would one sit on a beach with nothing to do when you can do this.

Ski jump practice going on while blowing snow

It was a great relief after several trys when we got new hoses and plugged in the machine and it worked blowing snow. Again we could stand under the new snow coming out of machine being blown at 30-40 mph (50 – 60 km/hr). One comes away covered in an ice layer.

Snow cat in place for final movement of snow gun. 9:30 pm

We managed to get it blown Tuesday evening and set it up to blow a final pile of snow for areas missed. Wednesday Zak shut it down. Afraid I was totally exhausted.

Finishing work overlooking Anchorage

And now winter is in full swing. Of course could use some natural snow, but barring any meltdowns we are set. Past week and forecast for next week is good with temps around zero (-20 C) . Am happy have figured out how to dress for it and let the fun begin. As I walked a trail yesterday there were bikers and skiers out just enjoying the wondrousness of winter. Supposed to be northern lights out last night but my eyelids were closed.

Now I need to go for another walk while the sun is at its peak of 6 degrees above the horizon.

Covid again

“We all need to learn to be comfortable with ourselves as early as possible, and to grasp we are responsible for who we are.”

Gisele Bündchen

Summer has been interesting for us in Alaska. Basically lots of visitors. First in May some cousins of Jeanne’s who did an Alaska cruise through the inside passage of Alaska, then did the bus tour about southcentral alaska, ending with a visit with us. Alway interesting to get a perspective from other people of our home. But a few days before departure they developed a cough and such calling it “allergies”. Well when they got home they called to inform us both had covid. Hmm, we knew it was still around, but we were trying to pretend otherwise. Somehow, we did not seem to get it.

Jeanne and I did sneak in a trip to Sun Valley, Idaho to celebrate my sisters 50th wedding anniversary.

Miller, Penner, Patee, Molitor family Sun Valley lodge

Then Jeanne’s sister and brother in law came for a week. It was a reconnaissance for the entire family next year. they were scoping out things to do for the various capability levels. They went on wildlife cruises, did the Native Heritage center they and helped with the summer solstice jump camp.

Summer Solstice jumpathon water spray

Next was Zak’s family, celebrating his dad’s 70th birthday. There were 7 here for 10-12 days. They went flight seeing, charter boat fishing out in Prince William Sound, watched the bore tide in turn again arm, various hikes, played lots of games, and spent a day at a friends cabin in Willow. The last activity just being at the cabin proved to be the highlight of the trip. Then a few developed a slight cough and upon returning home advised us they tested positive for covid.

Hammill family turnagain arm

Then various friends who needed a place travelling through Anchorage. All in all over a hundred man days of visitors. (one person, one day)

The Canadians from Squamish, British Columbia, came again for ski jumping, as they did last year. The Canadians have a can do attitude about jumping. Their programs have been cut and cut and now the physical jumps are scarce for them. Despite not having jumps the Canadians just have an attitude of we will do it. Hence they travel to other places to get their practices and utilize the small jumps available. They rented a house near the jumps and us, although one family stayed with us, with delightful 3 kids.

All came over for evening dinner one night. Alas, a few days later they tested positive for covid. Then Zak, our head ski coach was down with extreme fatigue, Friday. Natasha and I helped them at the jumps. They left on Sunday morning, getting as many jumps in as they could, despite their coaches being down.

That was Friday, and Zak, Natasha, Jeanne, and myself had scheduled a week long bike trip along the Denali Highway, here in Alaska. It is one of the most scenic drives anywhere. 134 miles (215 kilometer) of grandeur. It is yet early for fall colors, but still incredible and the mountain views are spectacular. It is often crowded with hunters as the Nelchina caribou herd goes through there, but with climate change the caribou are diminishing and changing their ways, hence hunting is closed for a few years, and the numbers of humans along the highway diminished.

Saturday morning early I developed a fever and cough and by morning was exhausted and slept the day. I tested for covid Saturday morning, but negative. Called the health clinic, concerning a possible paxlovid Rx, but it was Saturday, so only left a message. Saturday evening I tested positive, and apologized to the crew about ruining the bike ride. Our one week off for the summer, where we can enjoy our delightful home. Sunday I remained down, barely able to get out of the bed I had made in the basement away from Jeanne. Zak was also sleeping away the day.

Sunday night after sleeping for the past two days, in middle of night I awoke and felt a bit better. In the morning I read the weather report for Denali Highway and it was sunshine. The last month has been very rainy here in Anchorage, and all are tired of the rain. I texted Natasha and said let’s go. We picked her up at noon, leaving Zak sound asleep on the couch, and drove the 6 hours to Tangle Lakes campground, stopping at Ernestos Mexican restaurant for a quick meal. I kept my distance, and there was not a mask to be seen. One would never know Covid existed. Along the way the health clinic called, returning my message of Saturday, but stated they could not prescribe Paxlovid with a negative test, which is what I had Saturday morning. I tried to tell them it was positive Saturday night but reception was lost until we returned the next Friday at Cantwell, after the ride. I had four messages telling me to call them when reception returned. I returned the call stating I was better and too late for Paxlovid.

Alaska in the summer can be very crowded, and the days of just going camping, are very few. Most places reservations are required and most people do not camp, but bring their homes with the generators going. Denali Highway is different, it is BLM government land and one can camp just about anywhere. Delightful. The Tangle Lakes campground had several spots, hence we could have a picnic table.

Morning came and we wandered down to the stream going into Tangle Lake, and caught a small grayling fish for breakfast. Delightful, although only one small fish for the three of us was a tease.

Pancakes and fish for breakfast
Blueberry picking McClaren River drainage

Natasha and Jeanne took off biking and I thought I would take it easy as still feeling a bit tired. Jeanne rode 10 miles (16 k) and declared her front derailleur not working right. I have told her to fire her mechanic but turns out she likes me and keeps having me repair it. It worked earlier in the summer. I took over riding, ending the day with 39 km for me. Clearwater creek pullout.

I got very excited seeing the mountain poking through, with memories of a past mountain climbing life. I had tried McGinnis, and Mt Hayes, in 1975 and 1976, getting caught in storms on both and retreating. It was wonderful to see and trying to ascertain which was which -Mt. Hayes, McGinnis, Moffitt, Shand, Aurora, and farther west Gillam, Geist, and then Hess and Deborah. All big world class mountains. That evening out on the tundra we enjoyed a magnificent view of Moffitt.

Along the Denali Highway
Clearwater camp

Wednesday, I played with the derailleur a bit, and declared it better. ( I did my worst in front derailleurs, in bike school, 14 years ago.) The riding here was flat or it seemed, but alas flat entails rolling hills and a geologic feature called eskers, which do require some shifting. Jeanne tried riding but I took over riding for another 37 kilometers, and she got about 10 miles in. We alternated driving the car.

Natasha and I arrived at one of our favorite sights, along the highway. Just a pullout along the road but the view is amazing if it is clear. Jeanne had driven back and forth over about 5 miles researching the perfect pullout to camp. Jeanne had collected wood along the way and we had a campfire, which calmed the bugs down a bit, and I spent my time wishing the clouds over the mountains would clear, which was only vaguely successful with imagination. A delightful dinner of ravioli, I fell asleep and Jeanne and Natasha stayed up solving problems.

Thursday, again I rode another 37 k, Natasha rode to within 5 miles of Cantwell, where we normally start riding. It was over a hundred miles for her, for the trip. Jeanne picked more blueberries along the way and enjoyed the scenery.

We drove home paying respect to Craig along the Chulitna River. We had not been back by the Chulitina, since last summers episode. Stopped at Denali Brewing for pizza, and arrived home tired, and very happy.

Zak had been down through Tuesday and Wednesday for a total of 5 days down, and Thursday he rode 50 mile rides around Anchorage. Jeanne and Natasha showed no symptoms of covid.

The CDC I thought had said 5 days quarantine after first symptoms but turns out 10 days of mask. (Although as an aside our local hospital says you can work as soon as no symptoms). I have kept away from people (except in the restaurants where I tried to keep my distance)Today, Friday, I feel tired and a bit sore but OK, although a nap was required. I tested positive for covid tonight, just out of curiosity. Jeanne tested negative. Crazy. Life is interesting.

Saturday I was down again sleeping most of the day, with the evening improving. I tested negative Saturday evening, 9 days after the first symptoms.

Thus summer progresses. August almost finished and there is a hint of fall in the air. Delightful. As per usual this is my favorite time of year. ( Well whatever time of year it is, that is my favorite.)

Winter biking at home

“We are plain quiet folk and have no use for adventures. Nasty disturbing uncomfortable things! Make you late for dinner! I can’t think what anybody sees in them,”

The Hobbit

J.R.R. Tolkien

Read an article the other day about exercising and numbers and following the metrics. From INC. Magazine https://apple.news/A7iw63FcgSsOMHjvxv90vpg basically said it is nice to follow your heart rate, and speed and time and blah blah, but sometimes nice to just go out and enjoy.

Somehow I do not think I have had that problem of following the numbers real close, although I can definitely be accused of it. When my mom read my journal of sailing from Hawaii to Seattle she said I could have just put the journal in a spreadsheet. Ok.

But as I have aged I have gotten even slower and in turn somewhat paid more attention along the way. Ok maybe that is an excuse for going slow, but whatever I still follow the speed, and the heart rate and the blah blah blah, but it seems these days it just gives me a reference to who knows what.

Ok I ramble a bit. It is COVID time, it is winter and here in Anchorage it is but 6 hours of light a day now. Happily that is increasing now past the solstice. It is sometimes hard to get out and exercise, although one definitely feels better after.

But in the riding around the delightful trails here one comes across decorations scattered about. And some bikes have decorated themselves with Christmas lights. Just because there is only a short window of light does not mean one cannot get out. Today’s flashlights, headlamps, torches and such leave no excuse for limiting ones time to daylight.

Trail side decorations

Spectators

Even Santa had a stop along the trail

Trail side decorations

A New Bike Ride

Well it has been a while since writing and I have missed it, although I confess I have been lazy.  I did write a bit in April for the life stories class and put those ramblings on the site J. R. at home, but nothing since although my mind and ideas are barely under control with ideas.  Initiating those ideas is a totally different thing.

But a new trip is in the works.  This one to Germany with Jeanne.  Apparently “they” have finished the Eurovelo15 bike route from the headwaters of the Rhine river in Switzerland to the ocean near Rotterdam Holland.  Reportedly bike paths the entire way, which seems what they do in Europe.   We have arranged 5 weeks to do the 1230 kilometers leaving the 13 August, next week.

And one of the better parts is the bikes are there.  We have friends Todd and Britta who live here in Anchorage, but he, being a FedEx pilot, has taken a 4 year trip to Germany where they currently reside out of Köln.  Every year they have returned to Anchorage in the summer for a visit and stayed with us.  Now we visit them and they have bikes for us to use.  Sweet.  Good bikes and do not have to transport ours.  It was a good excuse to visit them.

Thus the preparations go on here.  We are doing the trip ourselves, no one to carry our stuff, no one to make arrangements, no one to guide us wherever.  And no particular schedule, although as usual I am finding already things are tight.  We know a fair number of people and trying to visit them is difficult at times due to our schedules and theirs.  Eric, the foreign exchange student we hosted in 2003 from Sweden is now a doctor, and we would love to see, Jeanne has a cousin and her daughter in Köln, friends I met in South America who reside in Germany and nearby places.  I guess if it works it will work but if not well it is no worse than not having visited or tried at all.

Currently we are going through ideas of things to take and preparations.  Travel insurance obtained this morning including emergency services and emergency returns back to where we have health insurance,  airfare already obtained via Condor air which is sweet with a direct flight from Anchorage to Frankfurt Germany.  None of that flying down south to go around to Europe.  10 hours direct.  GPS and potential routes mapped,  Cameras and charging devices, iPhone, iPad, and the implements of modern travel.  Talking with folks from the areas to be visited to see what is available and options.  We are hoteling it thus our loads will not include camping gear although it  sounds like camping is very good way to travel there.

And so if any of you are still on the mailing list here is another blog by J. R.  hopefully interesting, but then I find I write for me to remember.