Autumn colors are starting and Jeanne and I wanted to view them, as we did 3 years go on a train trip to Fairbanks, from anchorage. It was then the height of COVID, and you had to stay in seats, for entire ride, and they only sold every other seat. Ok we had an awesome time and colors were spectacular, especially the Siberian larches north of Denali park. That was about third week in September.
Jeanne had inquired early last week, but train travel totally sold out. Despite Alaska closing up after Labor Day (first Monday of September), numerous people had not heard that, and the cruise ships and tourists are still about. On Thursday she called and obtained a cancellation, for Saturday.
We had made arrangements to pick up a friends parents in Seward on Friday so it was a busy day. A delightful,drive meeting the parents at 8 am at Seward dock as they exited an 8 day cruise through the inside passage of alaska. We toured town reviewing where Brandon’s dad had worked in 1979, and out to exit glacier. It had receded even farther than a few months ago when we were there, with earlier summer visitors. Up late with dinner with them, then an 8 am departure on train. Much easier than flying, as one shows up 15 minutes early and boards.
Exit glacier June 2023June 2024
Exit glacier view September 2024
Alaska railroad
The problem with Alaska railroad, it is noted and famous for being one of the slowest in the world. The drive of 350 miles (750 k) to Fairbanks can be done in 6.5 hours with minimal traffic. The train schedules 12, for essentially same distance. But, the views are amazing and continuous, so lots of time to see. When a moose or bear was sighted the conductor would announce it and several people were able to see it, me not being one of them. I did see several swans and of course ducks, and grebes.
Broad pass
The train begins in Anchorage and our seats were first in car, hence we had a wall in front of us, blocking view. Near immediately we went up to dome car, where one is supposed to stay only 20 minutes to give others a chance. I do not think it ever filled up, and we stayed there most of trip.
Indian creek
Once when stopping to pick up passengers along the way, and the conductor describing how to open and close doors, as well as walk along the moving train. He advised the train cars were sort of like most of the people riding the train – somewhat old, set in our ways, sometimes cantankerous, but unique. And it was true of the 6 cars, each was unique and without a commonality of design other than wheels on track. Some doors you pushed, some you pulled, some you pushed a button, either on floor or on the door. Quite interesting.
Along the way, unfortunately someone developed a medical emergency and it was deemed an ambulance was needed. We stopped at a place called hurricane and waited an hour and half for one to arrive from either Palmer or Talkeetna a hundred miles south. I did see the patient walk off the train with assistance into ambulance.
Hurricane gulch awaiting ambulance
Interesting to hear the speculation on what happened. I am sure none were involved with the “emergency” but were willing to explain what happened.
Glitter gulch Denali national park
We arrived in Fairbanks at 10:30 – 2 1/2 hours late. Too late and dark to see the colors. Our friend Clif arrived and shuttled us to his place, for a wondrous sleep.
Sunday an awesome breakfast at more friends, then to the antique car museum. Fairbanks, it turns out has one of the best antique car museums, anywhere. Maybe 50 cars ranging from late 1800s with electric motors and steam engines. Turns out batteries were a problem then and people did not like sitting on a steam boiler, which on occasion burst. Latest cars were late 1930s. And bit of trivia, where the saying “that’s a deuzy” came from. From the old deussenberg car, a fine machine. The word station wagon comes from the 1911 model T Ford, which was designed to carry passengers from train station to hotel.
A flight home and begin prepping for next little adventure, obtaining tickets to ride the train, circumnavigating the lower United States, what we in Alaska call the lower 48. Coming up now is a ferry ride from Dutch Harbor to Homer a distance of a 1000 miles (1600 kilometers).
We just drove two cars to Homer, leaving one for our arrival next week on ferry. The flights from Homer to Anchorage are ridiculous a $250-$300 person.
“We all need to learn to be comfortable with ourselves as early as possible, and to grasp we are responsible for who we are.”
Gisele Bündchen
Summer has been interesting for us in Alaska. Basically lots of visitors. First in May some cousins of Jeanne’s who did an Alaska cruise through the inside passage of Alaska, then did the bus tour about southcentral alaska, ending with a visit with us. Alway interesting to get a perspective from other people of our home. But a few days before departure they developed a cough and such calling it “allergies”. Well when they got home they called to inform us both had covid. Hmm, we knew it was still around, but we were trying to pretend otherwise. Somehow, we did not seem to get it.
Jeanne and I did sneak in a trip to Sun Valley, Idaho to celebrate my sisters 50th wedding anniversary.
Miller, Penner, Patee, Molitor family Sun Valley lodge
Then Jeanne’s sister and brother in law came for a week. It was a reconnaissance for the entire family next year. they were scoping out things to do for the various capability levels. They went on wildlife cruises, did the Native Heritage center they and helped with the summer solstice jump camp.
Summer Solstice jumpathon water spray
Next was Zak’s family, celebrating his dad’s 70th birthday. There were 7 here for 10-12 days. They went flight seeing, charter boat fishing out in Prince William Sound, watched the bore tide in turn again arm, various hikes, played lots of games, and spent a day at a friends cabin in Willow. The last activity just being at the cabin proved to be the highlight of the trip. Then a few developed a slight cough and upon returning home advised us they tested positive for covid.
Hammill family turnagain arm
Then various friends who needed a place travelling through Anchorage. All in all over a hundred man days of visitors. (one person, one day)
The Canadians from Squamish, British Columbia, came again for ski jumping, as they did last year. The Canadians have a can do attitude about jumping. Their programs have been cut and cut and now the physical jumps are scarce for them. Despite not having jumps the Canadians just have an attitude of we will do it. Hence they travel to other places to get their practices and utilize the small jumps available. They rented a house near the jumps and us, although one family stayed with us, with delightful 3 kids.
All came over for evening dinner one night. Alas, a few days later they tested positive for covid. Then Zak, our head ski coach was down with extreme fatigue, Friday. Natasha and I helped them at the jumps. They left on Sunday morning, getting as many jumps in as they could, despite their coaches being down.
That was Friday, and Zak, Natasha, Jeanne, and myself had scheduled a week long bike trip along the Denali Highway, here in Alaska. It is one of the most scenic drives anywhere. 134 miles (215 kilometer) of grandeur. It is yet early for fall colors, but still incredible and the mountain views are spectacular. It is often crowded with hunters as the Nelchina caribou herd goes through there, but with climate change the caribou are diminishing and changing their ways, hence hunting is closed for a few years, and the numbers of humans along the highway diminished.
Saturday morning early I developed a fever and cough and by morning was exhausted and slept the day. I tested for covid Saturday morning, but negative. Called the health clinic, concerning a possible paxlovid Rx, but it was Saturday, so only left a message. Saturday evening I tested positive, and apologized to the crew about ruining the bike ride. Our one week off for the summer, where we can enjoy our delightful home. Sunday I remained down, barely able to get out of the bed I had made in the basement away from Jeanne. Zak was also sleeping away the day.
Sunday night after sleeping for the past two days, in middle of night I awoke and felt a bit better. In the morning I read the weather report for Denali Highway and it was sunshine. The last month has been very rainy here in Anchorage, and all are tired of the rain. I texted Natasha and said let’s go. We picked her up at noon, leaving Zak sound asleep on the couch, and drove the 6 hours to Tangle Lakes campground, stopping at Ernestos Mexican restaurant for a quick meal. I kept my distance, and there was not a mask to be seen. One would never know Covid existed. Along the way the health clinic called, returning my message of Saturday, but stated they could not prescribe Paxlovid with a negative test, which is what I had Saturday morning. I tried to tell them it was positive Saturday night but reception was lost until we returned the next Friday at Cantwell, after the ride. I had four messages telling me to call them when reception returned. I returned the call stating I was better and too late for Paxlovid.
Alaska in the summer can be very crowded, and the days of just going camping, are very few. Most places reservations are required and most people do not camp, but bring their homes with the generators going. Denali Highway is different, it is BLM government land and one can camp just about anywhere. Delightful. The Tangle Lakes campground had several spots, hence we could have a picnic table.
Morning came and we wandered down to the stream going into Tangle Lake, and caught a small grayling fish for breakfast. Delightful, although only one small fish for the three of us was a tease.
Pancakes and fish for breakfastBlueberry picking McClaren River drainage
Natasha and Jeanne took off biking and I thought I would take it easy as still feeling a bit tired. Jeanne rode 10 miles (16 k) and declared her front derailleur not working right. I have told her to fire her mechanic but turns out she likes me and keeps having me repair it. It worked earlier in the summer. I took over riding, ending the day with 39 km for me. Clearwater creek pullout.
I got very excited seeing the mountain poking through, with memories of a past mountain climbing life. I had tried McGinnis, and Mt Hayes, in 1975 and 1976, getting caught in storms on both and retreating. It was wonderful to see and trying to ascertain which was which -Mt. Hayes, McGinnis, Moffitt, Shand, Aurora, and farther west Gillam, Geist, and then Hess and Deborah. All big world class mountains. That evening out on the tundra we enjoyed a magnificent view of Moffitt.
Along the Denali Highway Clearwater camp
Wednesday, I played with the derailleur a bit, and declared it better. ( I did my worst in front derailleurs, in bike school, 14 years ago.) The riding here was flat or it seemed, but alas flat entails rolling hills and a geologic feature called eskers, which do require some shifting. Jeanne tried riding but I took over riding for another 37 kilometers, and she got about 10 miles in. We alternated driving the car.
Natasha and I arrived at one of our favorite sights, along the highway. Just a pullout along the road but the view is amazing if it is clear. Jeanne had driven back and forth over about 5 miles researching the perfect pullout to camp. Jeanne had collected wood along the way and we had a campfire, which calmed the bugs down a bit, and I spent my time wishing the clouds over the mountains would clear, which was only vaguely successful with imagination. A delightful dinner of ravioli, I fell asleep and Jeanne and Natasha stayed up solving problems.
Thursday, again I rode another 37 k, Natasha rode to within 5 miles of Cantwell, where we normally start riding. It was over a hundred miles for her, for the trip. Jeanne picked more blueberries along the way and enjoyed the scenery.
We drove home paying respect to Craig along the Chulitna River. We had not been back by the Chulitina, since last summers episode. Stopped at Denali Brewing for pizza, and arrived home tired, and very happy.
Zak had been down through Tuesday and Wednesday for a total of 5 days down, and Thursday he rode 50 mile rides around Anchorage. Jeanne and Natasha showed no symptoms of covid.
The CDC I thought had said 5 days quarantine after first symptoms but turns out 10 days of mask. (Although as an aside our local hospital says you can work as soon as no symptoms). I have kept away from people (except in the restaurants where I tried to keep my distance)Today, Friday, I feel tired and a bit sore but OK, although a nap was required. I tested positive for covid tonight, just out of curiosity. Jeanne tested negative. Crazy. Life is interesting.
Saturday I was down again sleeping most of the day, with the evening improving. I tested negative Saturday evening, 9 days after the first symptoms.
Thus summer progresses. August almost finished and there is a hint of fall in the air. Delightful. As per usual this is my favorite time of year. ( Well whatever time of year it is, that is my favorite.)
jrpatee 