Don’t plan it all. Let life surprise you a little.
Julia Alvarez
Awoke Sunday morning and able to see the beginning marathon runners on street below. It was just shy of 2 hours from start and we were at mile 24.wow! Turns out a lady from Kenya set the world women’s record, in seconds below 2 hours 10 minutes. As one friend said those elite levels levitate.
We proceed to work our way down to street side , and partake of he energy emanating from the crowd. 50,000 runners and massively more than that, spectators.
Mile 24 Chicago marathon Various spectatorsAid station
For security reasons, after Boston, could not go to finish line but we walked about. Turns out we walked about 8 miles just meandering about. Did the river walk, along river through town stopping for a beer along the way. Ended up at the mouth of river where dam lock is to keep Lake Michigan from coming into the river which creates some sort of problem. Checked out union station underneath for next days departure.
Grant park along Michigan avenueUnion station ChicagoMouth of Chicago River
It was starting to feel like we were walking just to kill time, deciding to return to hotel for an hour or two before the “light on the mart” show. At 7:30. Originally had planned to go to the Shed Aquarium but tickets had her doubled in price for the marathon weekend, again demand pricing. We opted not to fall for it.
Took a Lyft back to the light show which was good,but lasted repeated same 5 minute show for 30 minutes. The side of building is 2 1/2 acres (1+ hectare), across the river. Fairly spectacular. Sometimes free things are the best.
Lites on the mart
Monday continued our tour of Chicago, this time the museum of science and industry, which I remembered from the trip as a kid. I remembered nothing specific except one piece of artwork on wall, which I did not see his time.
As with all museums, no matter how good, my brain gets full after a couple hours and one must return, hence we planned it that way. A leisurely morning, laundry at hotel – lunch and Lyft to the museum. And as expected overwhelmed with options of different things. We hit the ground running, concentrating on the world warII captured German u-boat submarine, the 505. And the “blue paradox” about plastics in the ocean and water. We had to go back and forth between events as tour timing. In the end we wanted more, the exhibits covered the basics, which already known, but as one said, they have to dumb it down for the masses. But the presentation was spectacular with lots of special effects.
Never did figure out the mass transit. Got the app and it would say we needed the green line. Go to get tickets for green line, but no green line option but 15-20 other options. just gave up too easy.
U 505U 505 forward torpedo roomAwaiting video start “blue paradox” bottom of floor curves up into wall and ceiling, totally surrounding youLake front trail walking path. Separate walk, bike, and road trails Union station great hall Chicago
This train the lake shore express running along he Great Lakes to Albany then down to New York City. Surprised us at how different this train is. Whereas on the empire builder we had a roomette, this roomette is taller, due to only one level on this train. Hence upper bunk has sitting headroom and a window. And this roomette has a toilet and sink, but no closet, as if the 3” closet was great. We wish we had the community toilet as something about the toilet right next to bed, just is off. Funny how you beat best be careful,why you wish for.
Toilet on left, fold down sink above
And this train only has a dining car and no lounge observation car. We feel like bad kids being sent to our room, as no common area to mingle and meet others. But it is faster, usually going between 70 and 80 mph and rarely getting stopped by freight trains.
Colors are coming out nicely here although difficult to photograph when traveling at speed.
I saw that my life was a vast glowing empty page and I could do anything I wanted
Jack Kerouac
Arrived just over 6 hours late into Chicago at 10:30 pm. Apparently Amtrak is getting us a voucher for another trip of some sort, although have not seen it yet. Then the hotel was 2.3 miles away not the original 2 blocks I had thought, as originally looked at. Difficult to find a place as turns out this weekend is the Chicago Marathon as well as a big convention. Seems the world in the United States at least, has figured out how to gouge the tourist again with demand pricing. Normal rate is $180, but we are paying $450. Gouge the tourist. Sometimes I hate capitalism. we caught a Lyft cab for $5.50 and arrived. I had chosen a room on the 21st floor and amazing views out to a taller building across the street with condominiums. Apparently Chicago has become a desirable place and people want to live in town. It shows.
Always interesting to come to a new city. One has to figure out the mass transit – how to pay, where to pay, where to go and how to get there. In Portland my phone as soon as we were in airport came on (unasked for) saying Portland mass transit accepted apple cash and phone could be used for payment, just walk on. Here one gets an app and purchases access, but you have to know which mode you want. Some cities accept cash, some do not. We will see, have not tried it yet. I am sure once one does it, it is easy.
Seems every city in the world has a particular vibe, and always interesting to see what that is. New York, Washington D.C., London, Paris, Kathmandu each has an individual feel. And Chicago is the same. There is a particular vibrancy here, although currently it might be skewed due to the marathon. 50,000 people does have an affect.
My cousin drove into town from their home just outside town about an hour, and we had a delightful day. We walked about city central, found a sandwich place for lunch and yammered on. Jeanne had been here before and raved about the boat tour of architecture of the city. We had signed up for that. Tom and Ilona used to live in the city and certainly had visitors and had done tours but had never done that tour.
Seems after the recession of 2008-2010 money began to flow again and there was building boom here. There were certainly skyscrapers here before, but now a lot more. I had been up the Sears tower maybe 20 years ago, once the tallest building in the United States, now the 26th tallest in the world.
The tour was amazing, with the guide being a former history teacher and was passionate about Chicago and its history. I love it when people show passion in what they do. He covered not only the architecture ranging back to the 1850’s, the environmental aspects, the river, the geography, separation by a hill near here dividing the continent between the Atlantic ocean and gulf of Mexico, batman movies made here, and a myriad of other subjects.
Some factoids – learned where one building used the river water for cooling the building, but when it returned to the river it was warmer and affected the life in river.
Chicago is known as the windy city, and it is windy, people assuming it is named that because of the wind, but actually it is the history here of corrupt politicians and windbags, giving it the windy city name.
Michigan Avenue used to be the edge of the lake but after the great fire of 1876 (?) and other stuff, the residue was pushed out into the edge extending the land out. And the city elevation was raised by 10 feet so that the sewage from homes and buildings and the animal processing facilities could drain into the river easier. The clean water act of 1972 changed a lot for the river.
After the tour we found a small bakery shop and stepped in, continuing our yammering visit. Turns out Chicago does not do coffee very well , that I have found, and I am not particular. Weak cold coffee does not do it for me. Jeanne got sludge from her coffee pot.
Tom and Ilona returned home, Jeanne and I deciding to walk the 2.5 miles back to hotel. Turns out a great walk. The sidewalks were energetic with people. The police were out getting barriers set up for the marathon on Sunday. It was like setting up for a party. The pedicabs with music blasting, sirens, signs, barriers, people busy on the streets. One fellow we had seen in the morning near our hotel, who had asked for help getting some bottled water came up and said he wished to apologize to us for what he thought scared us. We had a nice conversation and he asked again for help getting some bottled water. Again we turned him down.
Stopped in randomly at a restaurant for dinner and it was incredible food. As the the waitress said, we would not tell the difference between the calamari and the pasta, and we could not. It was delicious. I had a mediterranean bass over a bed of green olives and carmelized fennel. Delicious.
Amtrak arrival platform Chicago union stationHotel view 21st floorJ. R., Jeanne, Ilona, and TomChicago River front. Note Amtrak train at bottom in Union stationWidth at base is 36 feet (11 meters)Chicago architectural tourMichigan avenue walking homeOutside art museum. When I was 12 I had sat on the tail of that lion.
Hour 46 and running 8 hours late. Scheduled arrival Chicago was 4:45, now scheduled for 9:32. Seems the train people are trying to make it work, but the infrastructure is not there.(according to me) Freight trains take precedence, and we often have to stop at a siding and wait. Apparently when we left Portland late that drops our priority to the bottom of queue. Alas. It is what it is. We just left Minneapolis-St.Paul and cruising at 78 mph.
Yesterday afternoon and today have just been sitting back and watch the scenery go by. Lots of reading materials and movies, but scenery is best. We left the mountains and were in miles and miles of wheat fields, already harvested. Today it is miles and miles of corn, although there are deciduous forests here. The colors though have not been coordinated and are a mishmash of green, red, yellow, orange. Jeanne is calling it paisley fall colors. Some are past prime some have not even started to turn colors. I noted in the forests often in relatively remote areas there were tree houses. Perhaps deer hunting sights.
One of the people we wanted to stop and visit was my sister. Unfortunately she and husband Steve are doing a driving trip visiting relatives, and were in Wisconsin when we passed through whitefish, Montana. But they were driving home and we would pass. We tracked each other and they stopped in Glasgow, Montana last night. Turns out a stop on our train, but a drop and go stop, no getting off for us and only seconds there. They came to the station, and I told them where we were-the lounge car. I looked but did not see them so decided to run for the door and wave. Unfortunately they saw us, while going down the stairs the train left, but I missed them.
We texted back and forth and the aurora was supposed to be out even down here. We returned to our roomette, blocking the light as well as possible, but minimal. Did get a picture on the phone which showed more than we saw, but something about taking a picture in the dark of a moving object while going 60mph did not work.
Northern lights from trainSunrise North Dakota Mississippi River Minnesota Red Wing, Minnesota
One thing I have distinctly noted since leaving the mountains is that this area is flat. North Dakota even more so. Definitely no mountains to block the view here. Miles and miles of miles and miles.
I have also started taking picture of us, not because we are vain or whatever, but the windows are so dirty it is difficult to get a decent picture. We still sit here in the lounge car enjoying the passing scenery.
Lounge car departing St. Paul beside Mississippi River.More lounge car and Mississippi River.
This is pretty amazing! What an amazing country. On to Chicago and the city.
“Three secrets to success: Be willing to learn new things. Be able to assimilate new information quickly. Be able to get along with and work with other people.” Sally Ride
Seems a good time to depart for yet another trip. We are heading off to circumnavigate, what in Alaska, we call the lower 48. The contiguous states which exclude Alaska and Hawaii. Seems appropriate to explore one’s own backyard a bit. I have always wondering why people at point A want to go to B, and the people at B want to go to point A. For those that travel the explanation is easy, to see what is there and how things are the same or different, better or worse. Then there are the people,at C and D who just want to go anywhere else. Finally there are those who choose to not physically travel through space but travel through time but staying out and watching the changes occur in a space over time.
As I get older I find home is pretty nice too. Hence a trip in the United States. I visited the south in 1962 on a cross country trip with uncle and cousin. 1962 is important because it was not until 1964 the civil rights act was passed, giving people rights across the board. But in 1962 I saw refusals to seat and or serve people, separate bathrooms, water fountains, etc. and relatives of my uncle and cousins who wanted to go do damage to various people. It scarred me as I had never seen such things, and I have developed a hatred of the south since, not changed in the past 60 years. They seem proud of their heritage. Except for numerous trips to Texas, and a few days in new Orleans I have not been back. Not that the few days traveling through on a train will show the true south, but trains are not noted for their routes through rich countrysides, the poor and industrial areas are more the norm. We shall see.
J. R. Flying solo to Chicago 1962
When I was 15 I did my first reasonably big bike trip, which was a group ride, of a month, from Philadelphia into Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Washington, D.C. including the C&O towpath. I took the 2 day train ride solo from Ogden, Utah to Philadelphia, returning to Utah from Washington, D.C. it was an awesome experience on my own, learning that sometimes, “they” do and think differently. I considered myself the only one from the west and wondered why the group insisted there were two from the west. One fellow was from St. Louis, and I always considered, and still do that to be east. Different viewpoints! The group leader on that trip of 10 sixteen year olds was 23 years old.
In 1993 Jeanne’s and I took the train from Perth, Australia to Adelaide across the Nullarbar desert. Again an awesome ride of 3-4 days. I remember awaking for sunrise and watching the red kangaroos racing the train in the relative coolness of morning. And the people from all over the world, all singing and getting along.
Jeanne & J.R. Nullarbar desert Australia
Then there were the short trips, Great Britain, Scotland, the Chunnel to Paris, and trains about Germany, and Thailand. Seems everyone complains about their countries train service, no matter where and the United States is no different, but I find it a wonderful way to travel.
Some have asked if it is not boring. Oh my gosh, how could it be boring? Always new scenery, constantly changing horizon, time to ponder whatever one ponders. Too short. But then I find sitting on this airplane at 35000 feet over the pacific flying to Seattle and onto Portland, Oregon, exciting. The clouds in a bazillion different formation. Way exciting! Trying to figure out where we are without a gps, just dead reckoning and a sort of memory. Plenty to occupy one’s mind.
The best traveler has no plan and is not intent on arrival.
Lao Tzu
Arrived Kodiak right on time after a great trip from Old Harbor. Kodiak yet another fishing town of Alaska, full of boats, docks, and houses along the coastline.
We had a couple of hours so departed the boat, making sure to carry ID and ferry ticket. Apparently they will not allow reentry without those two items, room keys do not count or knowledge that we have been on board for 4 days and they now theoretically know us. Personal relationships do not seem to count as much. We walked several blocks just looking and comparing to previous trips to the area. Both Jeanne and I had been here years ago teaching various classes. Jeanne teaching emergency trauma, and me teaching burn classes. Steve and I had been here 20 years + on a deer hunting trip with his son.
Several bars as per fishing towns, and we walked the main harbor just looking and admiring the boats. Mostly seiners with a few trawlers and longliners thrown into the mix. A working town. Not a lot of pleasure boats, although they may be in another harbor in the area. Ended up at a delightful brewery and enjoyed a good beer. Nothing overly exciting. Back to the ferry and the 10 hour run to Homer, arriving at 3 am. Ugh, but getting used to boat life which does not entail regular hours as arrivals and departures are at all hours.
Our friend Scott had driven our car, which we dropped at his house last week, and left it at the ferry terminal and we drove to his house, falling into bed for the second time this night. Proved to be a reasonable night of sleep despite awaking at 2:30. A delightful visit with Scott and Cindy that morning and then to the charging station to add a little electricity to the car. apparently the security system uses a fair amount of power, when people walk by and it records that. Next time remember to turn off the security system. We met with other friends at a coffee shop while adding 45 minutes of charge. then we were off, for the 5 hours drive home, stopping at supercharger along the way and having a good meal while charging. Made it home and prep for the next trip. Jeanne off a a girlfriend trip, and me at home getting house and me ready for winter.
It’s all so easy when you don’t know how hard it is.
Luann (comic by Greg evans)
And the ride began late due to mechanical delays. Originally scheduled for 5 pm departure from Dutch Harbor, but due to some mechanical maintenance needed, new schedule was 12:45 am – ugh. Thus we had another evening. We had extended our room, at the grand Aleutian hotel, so could hang there, but weather was reasonable (no rain or wind) so we walked about. Headed to the sushi restaurant and had a delightful meal with some very good sushi. Interesting walking as it just winds amongst the industrial canneries, which arebusy but not crazy, as not much fishing now. Company store, the bunkhouses and apartments, generator building, docks, both boat, and truck.
Sushi dinner
It was a long day and all were ready to fall into cabin bed and sleep, and all did except me, who in spite wanting to sleep, did not seem capable, so I wandered exploring the boat. 270 feet 3 decks plus the car deck below. We had departed amongst scattered clouds and an almost full moon. Beautiful and with the iPhone camera able to somewhat capture the mood. I wanted to see Priest rock but alas it was dark when we passed it at 1 am. We have a painting on wood at home of priest rock, and now at least I can say I have been by it.
Departing Dutch harbor
It is now Tuesday and we departed Saturday night Sunday morning. We have made 6 stops thus far with Kodiak yet to go, in about 5 hours. Akutan, Cold Bay, King Cove, Sand Point, Chignik, and this morning Old Harbor. Each unique, with a varying makeup of native and western, makeup, ranging in size from a few dozen to maybe a few hundred. I managed to at least get up and get on deck to see, at least the dock, of each although several were middle of night. Could get off and walk but frequently the actual town too far in the allotted time of usually half hour, sometimes an hour. One has to be careful though, as apparently if you do not take your ID and ticket with you they will not let you back on. TSA rules apparently.
Akutan dock and town at 5 amCold bay dockKing coveSand pointChignikOld harborOld harbor
It was fascinating to observe the choreography of docking and loading as well as unloading. This is the last run of the year, for this Aleutian run and folks are returning themselves, gear, boats, cars to points north. Will be interesting to see how many get off in Kodiak. The crew says a lot of standby in Kodiak awaiting trip,to Homer and the road system. Currently I count only 2 empty spaces on car deck, and it is packed in, with minimal,squeeze room between vehicles, cars, pickups, trailers, boats, a front end loader, vans, dogs.
And ferry has gotten fuller with people as we go along. At first it was seemingly just a few, mostly tourists as ourselves, but each village added a few more, with a stop of 1 to 1 1/2 hours to unload and load vehicles. A circus but well choreographed. Fascinating to watch, staying out of way, as lots of heavy machinery.
The views were spectacular. We spent much of day just watching the ocean and/or the coastline. This may be some of the most spectacular coastline I have ever seen. Volcano’s when clouds allow, but cliffs and rugged coastline amazing. And the wildlife! Sei whales, humpback whales, harbor porpoises, birds mostly gulls and shearwaters, possibly an albatross or fulmar. Constant incredible views.
Cape castle Sunrise by Jim Winchester Aleutian coastline
The weather has been calm, with only a slight rocking of the swells. We had expected the gulf of alaska to be rather rough, this time of year, but has been basically flat. We had been concerned prior to departure watching weather, but a wasted worry. Currently as I write seas are larger, but we are running with the wind so fairly smooth.
Cell phone reception again is irritating me. Be at dock in village and everyone is yammering away on phones, except us, who get no reception. Again AT&T fails to,deliver. Was reasonable in Dutch harbor but apparently only GCI (a local alaska company) covers smaller places here. Seems in 2024 somebody would have it figured for all to share. Starlink is on the boat for crew or just boat work but not available for us. And as I write and we are closer to Kodiak we have reception and everyone is on phones catching up.
Catching up
Weather has come in again, cloudy, windy, occasional rain. Beautiful to just sit here in our cabin, looking out at waves, with the shearwater birds just floating the waves. The ocean always is changing.
Rode the 8:40 am flight to Dutch harbor, arriving 11 am.. beautiful flight over Lake Clark National Park, and on to here. The landing interesting as I looked out the window to see cliffs off the wing, and apparently pilot saw about 70 humpback whales just frolicking about the waters below.
Anchorage departure Lake Clark national park
We are on this little,excursion with friends Jim Winchester and Steve Dombrowski. Steve used to be our neighbor in Anchorage and both of them worked construction building roads. They were somewhat interested to see the work they had done here 10 years ago paving the runway and the roads. We were like little kids in our excitement to see it all. Steve had rented a big suv for cruising about and we began touring, eyes wide. Steve turns out to be an excellent guide showing us about, Winchester excited about it all and fascinated to see new birds.
Dutch harbor airport terminal
Like any village in Alaska, Dutch Harbor and the town of Unalaska is very different than the city of Anchorage. Historically and pretty much still is a native village. But Dutch Harbor is the largest fishing seaport in the United States, and there is evidence of it all over. An industrial town with huge connexs almost all refrigerated, one I counted 5 high by 25 on a side and 5 deep. All for shipping seafood. And crb pots stored away for the season, which is in December and January. This is the place where the crabs boats depart for the Bering sea and king crab fishing. Think of the tv show “The deadliest catch”. The boats are in and the crab seem to have gone away, and we walked docks and looked.
Crab pots
A great lunch at the “Norwegian Rat bar”, with an awesome blue cheese bacon burger and fries with very reasonable prices, cheaper than Anchorage.
A drive up to review a gravel pit, with stored road work machinery, and on up into the hills. Why a road we were unsure, but as Steve noted probably a remnant of World War II and maintained since. The war was quite significant here in the Aleutians with some major bombing take place here by the Japanese and the occupation of Kiska and Attu islands. For some reason it was not widely known that the United States had some occupied territory during the war. There were some incredibly brutal land battles and flying done.
A good stay at the grand Aleutian hotel, and have extended our stay. Seems we were to depart at 5 pm today, Saturday, but alas a mechanical on the ferry, and it is delayed until 00:45 Sunday morning. Hence rather than have no where to hang out we extended 1 room for the evening.
Thus delightful hiking, good food, watching the weather and just enjoying the company and the vibes of a working industrial town. Tonite we board the ferry for 3 days and 3 nights of Bering sea and gulf of Alaska.
Russian churchHikingWalking the dicks photo by Jim Aleutian ladyWalking to grocery storeAleutian museum Overlook from World War II bunkerDutch harborHotel view
Autumn colors are starting and Jeanne and I wanted to view them, as we did 3 years go on a train trip to Fairbanks, from anchorage. It was then the height of COVID, and you had to stay in seats, for entire ride, and they only sold every other seat. Ok we had an awesome time and colors were spectacular, especially the Siberian larches north of Denali park. That was about third week in September.
Jeanne had inquired early last week, but train travel totally sold out. Despite Alaska closing up after Labor Day (first Monday of September), numerous people had not heard that, and the cruise ships and tourists are still about. On Thursday she called and obtained a cancellation, for Saturday.
We had made arrangements to pick up a friends parents in Seward on Friday so it was a busy day. A delightful,drive meeting the parents at 8 am at Seward dock as they exited an 8 day cruise through the inside passage of alaska. We toured town reviewing where Brandon’s dad had worked in 1979, and out to exit glacier. It had receded even farther than a few months ago when we were there, with earlier summer visitors. Up late with dinner with them, then an 8 am departure on train. Much easier than flying, as one shows up 15 minutes early and boards.
Exit glacier June 2023June 2024
Exit glacier view September 2024
Alaska railroad
The problem with Alaska railroad, it is noted and famous for being one of the slowest in the world. The drive of 350 miles (750 k) to Fairbanks can be done in 6.5 hours with minimal traffic. The train schedules 12, for essentially same distance. But, the views are amazing and continuous, so lots of time to see. When a moose or bear was sighted the conductor would announce it and several people were able to see it, me not being one of them. I did see several swans and of course ducks, and grebes.
Broad pass
The train begins in Anchorage and our seats were first in car, hence we had a wall in front of us, blocking view. Near immediately we went up to dome car, where one is supposed to stay only 20 minutes to give others a chance. I do not think it ever filled up, and we stayed there most of trip.
Indian creek
Once when stopping to pick up passengers along the way, and the conductor describing how to open and close doors, as well as walk along the moving train. He advised the train cars were sort of like most of the people riding the train – somewhat old, set in our ways, sometimes cantankerous, but unique. And it was true of the 6 cars, each was unique and without a commonality of design other than wheels on track. Some doors you pushed, some you pulled, some you pushed a button, either on floor or on the door. Quite interesting.
Along the way, unfortunately someone developed a medical emergency and it was deemed an ambulance was needed. We stopped at a place called hurricane and waited an hour and half for one to arrive from either Palmer or Talkeetna a hundred miles south. I did see the patient walk off the train with assistance into ambulance.
Hurricane gulch awaiting ambulance
Interesting to hear the speculation on what happened. I am sure none were involved with the “emergency” but were willing to explain what happened.
Glitter gulch Denali national park
We arrived in Fairbanks at 10:30 – 2 1/2 hours late. Too late and dark to see the colors. Our friend Clif arrived and shuttled us to his place, for a wondrous sleep.
Sunday an awesome breakfast at more friends, then to the antique car museum. Fairbanks, it turns out has one of the best antique car museums, anywhere. Maybe 50 cars ranging from late 1800s with electric motors and steam engines. Turns out batteries were a problem then and people did not like sitting on a steam boiler, which on occasion burst. Latest cars were late 1930s. And bit of trivia, where the saying “that’s a deuzy” came from. From the old deussenberg car, a fine machine. The word station wagon comes from the 1911 model T Ford, which was designed to carry passengers from train station to hotel.
A flight home and begin prepping for next little adventure, obtaining tickets to ride the train, circumnavigating the lower United States, what we in Alaska call the lower 48. Coming up now is a ferry ride from Dutch Harbor to Homer a distance of a 1000 miles (1600 kilometers).
We just drove two cars to Homer, leaving one for our arrival next week on ferry. The flights from Homer to Anchorage are ridiculous a $250-$300 person.
“We all need to learn to be comfortable with ourselves as early as possible, and to grasp we are responsible for who we are.”
Gisele Bündchen
Summer has been interesting for us in Alaska. Basically lots of visitors. First in May some cousins of Jeanne’s who did an Alaska cruise through the inside passage of Alaska, then did the bus tour about southcentral alaska, ending with a visit with us. Alway interesting to get a perspective from other people of our home. But a few days before departure they developed a cough and such calling it “allergies”. Well when they got home they called to inform us both had covid. Hmm, we knew it was still around, but we were trying to pretend otherwise. Somehow, we did not seem to get it.
Jeanne and I did sneak in a trip to Sun Valley, Idaho to celebrate my sisters 50th wedding anniversary.
Miller, Penner, Patee, Molitor family Sun Valley lodge
Then Jeanne’s sister and brother in law came for a week. It was a reconnaissance for the entire family next year. they were scoping out things to do for the various capability levels. They went on wildlife cruises, did the Native Heritage center they and helped with the summer solstice jump camp.
Summer Solstice jumpathon water spray
Next was Zak’s family, celebrating his dad’s 70th birthday. There were 7 here for 10-12 days. They went flight seeing, charter boat fishing out in Prince William Sound, watched the bore tide in turn again arm, various hikes, played lots of games, and spent a day at a friends cabin in Willow. The last activity just being at the cabin proved to be the highlight of the trip. Then a few developed a slight cough and upon returning home advised us they tested positive for covid.
Hammill family turnagain arm
Then various friends who needed a place travelling through Anchorage. All in all over a hundred man days of visitors. (one person, one day)
The Canadians from Squamish, British Columbia, came again for ski jumping, as they did last year. The Canadians have a can do attitude about jumping. Their programs have been cut and cut and now the physical jumps are scarce for them. Despite not having jumps the Canadians just have an attitude of we will do it. Hence they travel to other places to get their practices and utilize the small jumps available. They rented a house near the jumps and us, although one family stayed with us, with delightful 3 kids.
All came over for evening dinner one night. Alas, a few days later they tested positive for covid. Then Zak, our head ski coach was down with extreme fatigue, Friday. Natasha and I helped them at the jumps. They left on Sunday morning, getting as many jumps in as they could, despite their coaches being down.
That was Friday, and Zak, Natasha, Jeanne, and myself had scheduled a week long bike trip along the Denali Highway, here in Alaska. It is one of the most scenic drives anywhere. 134 miles (215 kilometer) of grandeur. It is yet early for fall colors, but still incredible and the mountain views are spectacular. It is often crowded with hunters as the Nelchina caribou herd goes through there, but with climate change the caribou are diminishing and changing their ways, hence hunting is closed for a few years, and the numbers of humans along the highway diminished.
Saturday morning early I developed a fever and cough and by morning was exhausted and slept the day. I tested for covid Saturday morning, but negative. Called the health clinic, concerning a possible paxlovid Rx, but it was Saturday, so only left a message. Saturday evening I tested positive, and apologized to the crew about ruining the bike ride. Our one week off for the summer, where we can enjoy our delightful home. Sunday I remained down, barely able to get out of the bed I had made in the basement away from Jeanne. Zak was also sleeping away the day.
Sunday night after sleeping for the past two days, in middle of night I awoke and felt a bit better. In the morning I read the weather report for Denali Highway and it was sunshine. The last month has been very rainy here in Anchorage, and all are tired of the rain. I texted Natasha and said let’s go. We picked her up at noon, leaving Zak sound asleep on the couch, and drove the 6 hours to Tangle Lakes campground, stopping at Ernestos Mexican restaurant for a quick meal. I kept my distance, and there was not a mask to be seen. One would never know Covid existed. Along the way the health clinic called, returning my message of Saturday, but stated they could not prescribe Paxlovid with a negative test, which is what I had Saturday morning. I tried to tell them it was positive Saturday night but reception was lost until we returned the next Friday at Cantwell, after the ride. I had four messages telling me to call them when reception returned. I returned the call stating I was better and too late for Paxlovid.
Alaska in the summer can be very crowded, and the days of just going camping, are very few. Most places reservations are required and most people do not camp, but bring their homes with the generators going. Denali Highway is different, it is BLM government land and one can camp just about anywhere. Delightful. The Tangle Lakes campground had several spots, hence we could have a picnic table.
Morning came and we wandered down to the stream going into Tangle Lake, and caught a small grayling fish for breakfast. Delightful, although only one small fish for the three of us was a tease.
Pancakes and fish for breakfastBlueberry picking McClaren River drainage
Natasha and Jeanne took off biking and I thought I would take it easy as still feeling a bit tired. Jeanne rode 10 miles (16 k) and declared her front derailleur not working right. I have told her to fire her mechanic but turns out she likes me and keeps having me repair it. It worked earlier in the summer. I took over riding, ending the day with 39 km for me. Clearwater creek pullout.
I got very excited seeing the mountain poking through, with memories of a past mountain climbing life. I had tried McGinnis, and Mt Hayes, in 1975 and 1976, getting caught in storms on both and retreating. It was wonderful to see and trying to ascertain which was which -Mt. Hayes, McGinnis, Moffitt, Shand, Aurora, and farther west Gillam, Geist, and then Hess and Deborah. All big world class mountains. That evening out on the tundra we enjoyed a magnificent view of Moffitt.
Along the Denali Highway Clearwater camp
Wednesday, I played with the derailleur a bit, and declared it better. ( I did my worst in front derailleurs, in bike school, 14 years ago.) The riding here was flat or it seemed, but alas flat entails rolling hills and a geologic feature called eskers, which do require some shifting. Jeanne tried riding but I took over riding for another 37 kilometers, and she got about 10 miles in. We alternated driving the car.
Natasha and I arrived at one of our favorite sights, along the highway. Just a pullout along the road but the view is amazing if it is clear. Jeanne had driven back and forth over about 5 miles researching the perfect pullout to camp. Jeanne had collected wood along the way and we had a campfire, which calmed the bugs down a bit, and I spent my time wishing the clouds over the mountains would clear, which was only vaguely successful with imagination. A delightful dinner of ravioli, I fell asleep and Jeanne and Natasha stayed up solving problems.
Thursday, again I rode another 37 k, Natasha rode to within 5 miles of Cantwell, where we normally start riding. It was over a hundred miles for her, for the trip. Jeanne picked more blueberries along the way and enjoyed the scenery.
We drove home paying respect to Craig along the Chulitna River. We had not been back by the Chulitina, since last summers episode. Stopped at Denali Brewing for pizza, and arrived home tired, and very happy.
Zak had been down through Tuesday and Wednesday for a total of 5 days down, and Thursday he rode 50 mile rides around Anchorage. Jeanne and Natasha showed no symptoms of covid.
The CDC I thought had said 5 days quarantine after first symptoms but turns out 10 days of mask. (Although as an aside our local hospital says you can work as soon as no symptoms). I have kept away from people (except in the restaurants where I tried to keep my distance)Today, Friday, I feel tired and a bit sore but OK, although a nap was required. I tested positive for covid tonight, just out of curiosity. Jeanne tested negative. Crazy. Life is interesting.
Saturday I was down again sleeping most of the day, with the evening improving. I tested negative Saturday evening, 9 days after the first symptoms.
Thus summer progresses. August almost finished and there is a hint of fall in the air. Delightful. As per usual this is my favorite time of year. ( Well whatever time of year it is, that is my favorite.)
Heading home, sitting on plane from Antalya to Istanbul, then transfer to SAW airport on other side of Istanbul, a distance of maybe 60 kilometer. Now 8:40 am, flight to Doha departs 8:00 so lots of time. Traveling always interesting, but I do remember studying biology that migration is a dangerous time. Ok do not lose passport!
Past days on boat were great, relaxing. Returning to Kas from Greece Ned and I had heard about great haircuts so decided to give it a try. An hour and 15 minutes later we were not only better looking but totally relaxed and could hear better. Haircut, massage and ear cleaning all for 500 lira total (about $17 each)
Ned and J. R. Celebrating haircuts
The days were spent swimming, anchoring in beautiful quiet hidden coves, hiking during day often meeting the boat in a new cove or town.
Evening outside of KasNightly extravaganza Sea Bass toniteEnding hike in rainMyra stadium
Last day on boat we went to more Roman ruins, at Myra and a delightful kayak up a meandering stream with loggerhead sea turtles swimming in the fresh water. A difficult hike to 5th century BC temple to Apollo, and later 2nd century AD church.
Arrived in Finike, home port of the Cavalari, and we boarded bus for 2 hour trip to Antalya. A Roman city of Perge, a walk in old town, an excellent museum which timelines history of man in this area starting about 2 million years ago. Interesting to see the development of pots and pottery, and the development of religion, and worship of various sorts. Another hot day.
Passengers and crew
And so another trip ends and homeward bound. Lots to look forward to at home. But still reflecting on this journey.
Turkey is an amazing place. So much history and potential. I knew before leaving there would be a massive amount of history and there is. My poor brain is very full trying to digest and categorize.
Someone else has already done this with Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hellenistic, Lycian, Roman, Byzantine, crusades, on and on. As someone pointed out history is just one thing after another. But Turkey is really at the crossroads. To the south is the Mediterranean and Africa. To the north is the Black Sea and Ukraine and Russia. To the northeast lies the historically allied countries of what I call the stans- Turkmenistan, kurgistan,, Georgia, Afghanistan, etc and Iran. Southeast lies Syria and Iraq.
Over the centuries humanity has travelled through Turkey to get between Western Europe and the far East. Each area has its culture and “tribe”, usually, if I am correct in thinking that “one’s own home “ culture” is the best. Hence Turkey has been “run over” by various cultures through history. Back and forth expanding contracting. Each leaving an impression and artifacts.
Humans are gregarious and like to be with other humans, but they tend to not like those different, and will fight them to overcome them. Fighting between tribes, cultures, countries seems a human activity. We have not developed an ability to learn without trying to change.
Some of those cultures were quite impressive ie the Roman’s. A culture so rich it developed great works of art and technology, advancing the human species. But it was built on the backs of slaves, which to me negates the progress.
One of the things I wanted to learn in coming here was not just the history, but where is it going? Oh yeah predicting the future ! So here is my take which with $10.00 will buy you a cup of coffee. ($5.00 if you leave out my ideas)
Turkey is an advanced country taking care of its people. It is not immune to problems throughout the world, but is maintaining itself, but trying to accept others. Migration is a huge problem, dare I say much worse than what the United States considers its problem, Syria, Russia are the big migrants, but numerous others. They try and integrate, with education, health, etc. but it is overwhelming. It is a problem bigger than my brain can handle and I am rambling
Religion in Turkey is Islam, but it varies by what one calls religious. I believe officially it is about 95% Islamic, but when one talks with various folks 40% may be more accurate, depending how one measures religious practice. I find the important point is it is secular, in that there is no state religion and the state cannot preach it. Schools , even private schools cannot teach religion. What a concept, to be allowed to think for yourself. Religion is a huge topic unto itself, and I intend to research it further, perhaps even attempting to read the Bible again. (I confess I have tried but get lost easily)
But I am afraid it is only the first day of travel. We have covered 2 continents, gone through 4 securities, 1 passport control, and have not left Turkey. Ok I am tired
We never saw what in the United States we would call homeless, and in asking never really got an answer as to why. Basically health care is covered, and homelessness as we know it is illegal. If someone is homeless in inclement weather they are housed in a hotel or safe place. But I never found a real answer.
Clean well, transport is good and easy, people friendly although English not always, although we are in Turkey.
jrpatee 