Autumn colors are starting and Jeanne and I wanted to view them, as we did 3 years go on a train trip to Fairbanks, from anchorage. It was then the height of COVID, and you had to stay in seats, for entire ride, and they only sold every other seat. Ok we had an awesome time and colors were spectacular, especially the Siberian larches north of Denali park. That was about third week in September.
Jeanne had inquired early last week, but train travel totally sold out. Despite Alaska closing up after Labor Day (first Monday of September), numerous people had not heard that, and the cruise ships and tourists are still about. On Thursday she called and obtained a cancellation, for Saturday.
We had made arrangements to pick up a friends parents in Seward on Friday so it was a busy day. A delightful,drive meeting the parents at 8 am at Seward dock as they exited an 8 day cruise through the inside passage of alaska. We toured town reviewing where Brandon’s dad had worked in 1979, and out to exit glacier. It had receded even farther than a few months ago when we were there, with earlier summer visitors. Up late with dinner with them, then an 8 am departure on train. Much easier than flying, as one shows up 15 minutes early and boards.
Exit glacier June 2023June 2024
Exit glacier view September 2024
Alaska railroad
The problem with Alaska railroad, it is noted and famous for being one of the slowest in the world. The drive of 350 miles (750 k) to Fairbanks can be done in 6.5 hours with minimal traffic. The train schedules 12, for essentially same distance. But, the views are amazing and continuous, so lots of time to see. When a moose or bear was sighted the conductor would announce it and several people were able to see it, me not being one of them. I did see several swans and of course ducks, and grebes.
Broad pass
The train begins in Anchorage and our seats were first in car, hence we had a wall in front of us, blocking view. Near immediately we went up to dome car, where one is supposed to stay only 20 minutes to give others a chance. I do not think it ever filled up, and we stayed there most of trip.
Indian creek
Once when stopping to pick up passengers along the way, and the conductor describing how to open and close doors, as well as walk along the moving train. He advised the train cars were sort of like most of the people riding the train – somewhat old, set in our ways, sometimes cantankerous, but unique. And it was true of the 6 cars, each was unique and without a commonality of design other than wheels on track. Some doors you pushed, some you pulled, some you pushed a button, either on floor or on the door. Quite interesting.
Along the way, unfortunately someone developed a medical emergency and it was deemed an ambulance was needed. We stopped at a place called hurricane and waited an hour and half for one to arrive from either Palmer or Talkeetna a hundred miles south. I did see the patient walk off the train with assistance into ambulance.
Hurricane gulch awaiting ambulance
Interesting to hear the speculation on what happened. I am sure none were involved with the “emergency” but were willing to explain what happened.
Glitter gulch Denali national park
We arrived in Fairbanks at 10:30 – 2 1/2 hours late. Too late and dark to see the colors. Our friend Clif arrived and shuttled us to his place, for a wondrous sleep.
Sunday an awesome breakfast at more friends, then to the antique car museum. Fairbanks, it turns out has one of the best antique car museums, anywhere. Maybe 50 cars ranging from late 1800s with electric motors and steam engines. Turns out batteries were a problem then and people did not like sitting on a steam boiler, which on occasion burst. Latest cars were late 1930s. And bit of trivia, where the saying “that’s a deuzy” came from. From the old deussenberg car, a fine machine. The word station wagon comes from the 1911 model T Ford, which was designed to carry passengers from train station to hotel.
A flight home and begin prepping for next little adventure, obtaining tickets to ride the train, circumnavigating the lower United States, what we in Alaska call the lower 48. Coming up now is a ferry ride from Dutch Harbor to Homer a distance of a 1000 miles (1600 kilometers).
We just drove two cars to Homer, leaving one for our arrival next week on ferry. The flights from Homer to Anchorage are ridiculous a $250-$300 person.
“We all need to learn to be comfortable with ourselves as early as possible, and to grasp we are responsible for who we are.”
Gisele Bündchen
Summer has been interesting for us in Alaska. Basically lots of visitors. First in May some cousins of Jeanne’s who did an Alaska cruise through the inside passage of Alaska, then did the bus tour about southcentral alaska, ending with a visit with us. Alway interesting to get a perspective from other people of our home. But a few days before departure they developed a cough and such calling it “allergies”. Well when they got home they called to inform us both had covid. Hmm, we knew it was still around, but we were trying to pretend otherwise. Somehow, we did not seem to get it.
Jeanne and I did sneak in a trip to Sun Valley, Idaho to celebrate my sisters 50th wedding anniversary.
Miller, Penner, Patee, Molitor family Sun Valley lodge
Then Jeanne’s sister and brother in law came for a week. It was a reconnaissance for the entire family next year. they were scoping out things to do for the various capability levels. They went on wildlife cruises, did the Native Heritage center they and helped with the summer solstice jump camp.
Summer Solstice jumpathon water spray
Next was Zak’s family, celebrating his dad’s 70th birthday. There were 7 here for 10-12 days. They went flight seeing, charter boat fishing out in Prince William Sound, watched the bore tide in turn again arm, various hikes, played lots of games, and spent a day at a friends cabin in Willow. The last activity just being at the cabin proved to be the highlight of the trip. Then a few developed a slight cough and upon returning home advised us they tested positive for covid.
Hammill family turnagain arm
Then various friends who needed a place travelling through Anchorage. All in all over a hundred man days of visitors. (one person, one day)
The Canadians from Squamish, British Columbia, came again for ski jumping, as they did last year. The Canadians have a can do attitude about jumping. Their programs have been cut and cut and now the physical jumps are scarce for them. Despite not having jumps the Canadians just have an attitude of we will do it. Hence they travel to other places to get their practices and utilize the small jumps available. They rented a house near the jumps and us, although one family stayed with us, with delightful 3 kids.
All came over for evening dinner one night. Alas, a few days later they tested positive for covid. Then Zak, our head ski coach was down with extreme fatigue, Friday. Natasha and I helped them at the jumps. They left on Sunday morning, getting as many jumps in as they could, despite their coaches being down.
That was Friday, and Zak, Natasha, Jeanne, and myself had scheduled a week long bike trip along the Denali Highway, here in Alaska. It is one of the most scenic drives anywhere. 134 miles (215 kilometer) of grandeur. It is yet early for fall colors, but still incredible and the mountain views are spectacular. It is often crowded with hunters as the Nelchina caribou herd goes through there, but with climate change the caribou are diminishing and changing their ways, hence hunting is closed for a few years, and the numbers of humans along the highway diminished.
Saturday morning early I developed a fever and cough and by morning was exhausted and slept the day. I tested for covid Saturday morning, but negative. Called the health clinic, concerning a possible paxlovid Rx, but it was Saturday, so only left a message. Saturday evening I tested positive, and apologized to the crew about ruining the bike ride. Our one week off for the summer, where we can enjoy our delightful home. Sunday I remained down, barely able to get out of the bed I had made in the basement away from Jeanne. Zak was also sleeping away the day.
Sunday night after sleeping for the past two days, in middle of night I awoke and felt a bit better. In the morning I read the weather report for Denali Highway and it was sunshine. The last month has been very rainy here in Anchorage, and all are tired of the rain. I texted Natasha and said let’s go. We picked her up at noon, leaving Zak sound asleep on the couch, and drove the 6 hours to Tangle Lakes campground, stopping at Ernestos Mexican restaurant for a quick meal. I kept my distance, and there was not a mask to be seen. One would never know Covid existed. Along the way the health clinic called, returning my message of Saturday, but stated they could not prescribe Paxlovid with a negative test, which is what I had Saturday morning. I tried to tell them it was positive Saturday night but reception was lost until we returned the next Friday at Cantwell, after the ride. I had four messages telling me to call them when reception returned. I returned the call stating I was better and too late for Paxlovid.
Alaska in the summer can be very crowded, and the days of just going camping, are very few. Most places reservations are required and most people do not camp, but bring their homes with the generators going. Denali Highway is different, it is BLM government land and one can camp just about anywhere. Delightful. The Tangle Lakes campground had several spots, hence we could have a picnic table.
Morning came and we wandered down to the stream going into Tangle Lake, and caught a small grayling fish for breakfast. Delightful, although only one small fish for the three of us was a tease.
Pancakes and fish for breakfastBlueberry picking McClaren River drainage
Natasha and Jeanne took off biking and I thought I would take it easy as still feeling a bit tired. Jeanne rode 10 miles (16 k) and declared her front derailleur not working right. I have told her to fire her mechanic but turns out she likes me and keeps having me repair it. It worked earlier in the summer. I took over riding, ending the day with 39 km for me. Clearwater creek pullout.
I got very excited seeing the mountain poking through, with memories of a past mountain climbing life. I had tried McGinnis, and Mt Hayes, in 1975 and 1976, getting caught in storms on both and retreating. It was wonderful to see and trying to ascertain which was which -Mt. Hayes, McGinnis, Moffitt, Shand, Aurora, and farther west Gillam, Geist, and then Hess and Deborah. All big world class mountains. That evening out on the tundra we enjoyed a magnificent view of Moffitt.
Along the Denali Highway Clearwater camp
Wednesday, I played with the derailleur a bit, and declared it better. ( I did my worst in front derailleurs, in bike school, 14 years ago.) The riding here was flat or it seemed, but alas flat entails rolling hills and a geologic feature called eskers, which do require some shifting. Jeanne tried riding but I took over riding for another 37 kilometers, and she got about 10 miles in. We alternated driving the car.
Natasha and I arrived at one of our favorite sights, along the highway. Just a pullout along the road but the view is amazing if it is clear. Jeanne had driven back and forth over about 5 miles researching the perfect pullout to camp. Jeanne had collected wood along the way and we had a campfire, which calmed the bugs down a bit, and I spent my time wishing the clouds over the mountains would clear, which was only vaguely successful with imagination. A delightful dinner of ravioli, I fell asleep and Jeanne and Natasha stayed up solving problems.
Thursday, again I rode another 37 k, Natasha rode to within 5 miles of Cantwell, where we normally start riding. It was over a hundred miles for her, for the trip. Jeanne picked more blueberries along the way and enjoyed the scenery.
We drove home paying respect to Craig along the Chulitna River. We had not been back by the Chulitina, since last summers episode. Stopped at Denali Brewing for pizza, and arrived home tired, and very happy.
Zak had been down through Tuesday and Wednesday for a total of 5 days down, and Thursday he rode 50 mile rides around Anchorage. Jeanne and Natasha showed no symptoms of covid.
The CDC I thought had said 5 days quarantine after first symptoms but turns out 10 days of mask. (Although as an aside our local hospital says you can work as soon as no symptoms). I have kept away from people (except in the restaurants where I tried to keep my distance)Today, Friday, I feel tired and a bit sore but OK, although a nap was required. I tested positive for covid tonight, just out of curiosity. Jeanne tested negative. Crazy. Life is interesting.
Saturday I was down again sleeping most of the day, with the evening improving. I tested negative Saturday evening, 9 days after the first symptoms.
Thus summer progresses. August almost finished and there is a hint of fall in the air. Delightful. As per usual this is my favorite time of year. ( Well whatever time of year it is, that is my favorite.)
Heading home, sitting on plane from Antalya to Istanbul, then transfer to SAW airport on other side of Istanbul, a distance of maybe 60 kilometer. Now 8:40 am, flight to Doha departs 8:00 so lots of time. Traveling always interesting, but I do remember studying biology that migration is a dangerous time. Ok do not lose passport!
Past days on boat were great, relaxing. Returning to Kas from Greece Ned and I had heard about great haircuts so decided to give it a try. An hour and 15 minutes later we were not only better looking but totally relaxed and could hear better. Haircut, massage and ear cleaning all for 500 lira total (about $17 each)
Ned and J. R. Celebrating haircuts
The days were spent swimming, anchoring in beautiful quiet hidden coves, hiking during day often meeting the boat in a new cove or town.
Evening outside of KasNightly extravaganza Sea Bass toniteEnding hike in rainMyra stadium
Last day on boat we went to more Roman ruins, at Myra and a delightful kayak up a meandering stream with loggerhead sea turtles swimming in the fresh water. A difficult hike to 5th century BC temple to Apollo, and later 2nd century AD church.
Arrived in Finike, home port of the Cavalari, and we boarded bus for 2 hour trip to Antalya. A Roman city of Perge, a walk in old town, an excellent museum which timelines history of man in this area starting about 2 million years ago. Interesting to see the development of pots and pottery, and the development of religion, and worship of various sorts. Another hot day.
Passengers and crew
And so another trip ends and homeward bound. Lots to look forward to at home. But still reflecting on this journey.
Turkey is an amazing place. So much history and potential. I knew before leaving there would be a massive amount of history and there is. My poor brain is very full trying to digest and categorize.
Someone else has already done this with Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hellenistic, Lycian, Roman, Byzantine, crusades, on and on. As someone pointed out history is just one thing after another. But Turkey is really at the crossroads. To the south is the Mediterranean and Africa. To the north is the Black Sea and Ukraine and Russia. To the northeast lies the historically allied countries of what I call the stans- Turkmenistan, kurgistan,, Georgia, Afghanistan, etc and Iran. Southeast lies Syria and Iraq.
Over the centuries humanity has travelled through Turkey to get between Western Europe and the far East. Each area has its culture and “tribe”, usually, if I am correct in thinking that “one’s own home “ culture” is the best. Hence Turkey has been “run over” by various cultures through history. Back and forth expanding contracting. Each leaving an impression and artifacts.
Humans are gregarious and like to be with other humans, but they tend to not like those different, and will fight them to overcome them. Fighting between tribes, cultures, countries seems a human activity. We have not developed an ability to learn without trying to change.
Some of those cultures were quite impressive ie the Roman’s. A culture so rich it developed great works of art and technology, advancing the human species. But it was built on the backs of slaves, which to me negates the progress.
One of the things I wanted to learn in coming here was not just the history, but where is it going? Oh yeah predicting the future ! So here is my take which with $10.00 will buy you a cup of coffee. ($5.00 if you leave out my ideas)
Turkey is an advanced country taking care of its people. It is not immune to problems throughout the world, but is maintaining itself, but trying to accept others. Migration is a huge problem, dare I say much worse than what the United States considers its problem, Syria, Russia are the big migrants, but numerous others. They try and integrate, with education, health, etc. but it is overwhelming. It is a problem bigger than my brain can handle and I am rambling
Religion in Turkey is Islam, but it varies by what one calls religious. I believe officially it is about 95% Islamic, but when one talks with various folks 40% may be more accurate, depending how one measures religious practice. I find the important point is it is secular, in that there is no state religion and the state cannot preach it. Schools , even private schools cannot teach religion. What a concept, to be allowed to think for yourself. Religion is a huge topic unto itself, and I intend to research it further, perhaps even attempting to read the Bible again. (I confess I have tried but get lost easily)
But I am afraid it is only the first day of travel. We have covered 2 continents, gone through 4 securities, 1 passport control, and have not left Turkey. Ok I am tired
We never saw what in the United States we would call homeless, and in asking never really got an answer as to why. Basically health care is covered, and homelessness as we know it is illegal. If someone is homeless in inclement weather they are housed in a hotel or safe place. But I never found a real answer.
Clean well, transport is good and easy, people friendly although English not always, although we are in Turkey.
History is an interesting thing. Humanity is also rather interesting, confusing but interesting. We left the town of Kas, on the southern coast of turkey and crossed maybe 3 kilometer of water arriving at Greek island of Kastellorizo (Megisti) and went through customs, having to leave our passports with the police there
Greek customs
After World War I the islands in the Mediterranean were granted to Greece. Seems funny having these islands just off the Turkish coast belong to Greece but the world is funny. And there is a large military presence on the Greek island, apparently half the island is military land. There is a large warship loaded with cruise misses and such at the village. As there was a military ship at Kas, which Charles and I toured. All over there is military presence. I guess falls into the category of if you hate me I will hate you, despite being neighbors. Humanity? apparently the Greeks here can buy perishable items in Kas and get a local customs permit to cross back and forth without problem, but non perishable items have to come from the isle of Rhode’s, a distance of 150 kilometer. There is a 10 year wait list to build a house with the backup of supplies.
The town of Megisti is a quaint town currently resident population of about 360 and double that if you include military living here. Used to be 14000, but the town was bombed in World War I by the Germans.
A short drove to west side of island brought us to some limestone cliffs which one tiny area has a small entry into a cave. The blue cave. 2 kayaks and paddle board went in, but did not think entry possible as a bit of wave action. Some tour boats outside with people swimming in. But we took the dinghy and started in having to lay completely on floor as only a meter at most clearance and wave action changing height constantly. But entry then was amazing. At first I thought “wow, they have lighted this cave”. There is an iridescent blue color. It is all natural light from the entry through the water.
I started to swim back to our ship just motoring a hundred meters off the cave. Too deep to anchor. A tour boat in little runabout stopped me saying too dangerous, despite our crew granting permission for me. Tour boat made me get in their boat and wait until his tourist boarded. Our dinghy arrived but tour boat operator said do not go there, but I jumped in anyway. Enver said when back on board, to not listen to people I don’t know, but the tour operator kept blocking my way. We figure the tour boat did not want to set a precedence of swimming. Oh well whatever.
Back to town others wanted to hike the hill to castle and church, but I just wanted to sit at sidewalk cafe, have a beer, and absorb the town life. Ned joined me and we had a delightful time, which 4 beers helped. Jeanne joined us, and the proprietor thrilled us with various answers to various questions. His English quite adequate. Another beer enroute to rendezvous with rest of group.
Megisti
A delightful meal Enver had a giant pork chop which one can’t have in turkey,due to Muslim no pork rule. I had thinly sliced raw sea bass, covered in caviar, jeanne-4 apparently delicious big prawns, and squid as an appetizer for all along with fried sardines. Absolutely delicious meal.
Squid appetizerSidewalk dinner turtles in the water cats on the sidewalk
Slept on board boat in harbor, walked to bakery in am for morning bread, and breakfast. Then off again to this uninhabited island (except military) for snorkeling swimming, kayaking etc delightful
Now approaching Kas, Turkey again where will spend night. Hoped for a quiet anchorage, but alas punched hole in dinghy on the limestone so will spend night to repair.
Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice
Anton Chekhov
Well we boarded the Cavurali and it took a while to get our sea legs, and not in a balance sort of way, but adapt and change to boat life which is different, charging electronics only when generator running or the air con, or sleep in cabin or on deck, closer quarters etc. and the first night was very hot. Sweat rolled off both jeanne and I all night. Rough!and the boats in area, well are over the top. Cavurali is 65 feet and one of the tiniest around. “Fancy people”
But next day much better. We had gone out from Goche, and anchored where able to just jump off and swim. Sweet, very sweet!the first full day went on hike about 8 kilometer which was delightful although again very hot. Our new guide Enver, who also owns and arranges the tour we are on, took us to some “nomads living in hills, who served us sage tea and bread with delicious olive oil. Fabulous.
Cleopatra bathsHikingEnver and our hosts
Return to boat and did some great swimming again. I tried swimming into a limestone cave , but gave up she. It got dark and I could see no more. Swimming in the dark dark was not to my liking and I returned to the open water with light.
Moonlit eveningBreakfast fruit, olives, cheeses, bread, eggsJeanne pointing to CavuraliInterior sidewalk of monastery Gemiler Adasi. Interior to crate a breezeway in heat.
More ruins, later in day again hiking over the hills with boat driving around to new spot where we would hike in. After hiking around an abandoned village over the top and down to new cove, where we were met by the day tripping boats which are party boats with loud music. We quickly left for a serene quiet anchorage and again enjoyed swimming, kayaking.
Today off early and again dropped at a cove where we had breakfast, then hiked up a pass in the heat. A van picked us up and off to Roman ruins of Patara, which also is near the beach and swimming. Turns out st. Nicholas was born on that beach. How Santa Claus was born there in the year 325 ad, and ended up at the North Pole I do not know.
Patara city street to harbor
The city of Patara apparently was visited by the apostles of Jesus Luke and Paul. Ok! It had its water supply from 20 kilometer away. Is and amazing aqueduct.
Roman aqueduct built approximately 100bc
Another home visit this time with friends of Envar. Again absolutely amazing food.
LunchStuffed eggplant and stuffed pepper with turkish ravioli
Tonite we are in the harbor of Kas, between an Italian yacht I estimate 175 feet long, with crew of five, and a I estimate 120 foot yacht with Palau flag, registered in Delaware, but is russian. Then on opposite side is a Turkish military ship the Kas, which Charles and I went onboard and got a tour. Interesting
Only those who dare to fail greatly can ever achieve greatly.
John F Kennedy
This is a massive subject, although someone said it is just one thing after another. Hence, I will start in the middle.
Arrived Izmir via flight from cappadocia region via Istanbul. Turkish air fed us a hot sandwich both flights one an hour another 45 minutes can’t remember last time fed a meal on domestic flight
Driver and van arrived and off to lunch. Another incredible Turkish meal. I have concluded we are not allowed to be remotely hungry on this trip.
Good lunch options
Then to the ruins of Ephemeris, one of the largest Roman cities, with a population of 200, 000 people, which included slaves which were in significant numbers. Apparently some “owned” as many as 2000.
The city was rediscovered and is slowly being “dug out”. One could see the Main Street again full of people “tourists” it was inhabited 2 millennia ago.
Roman street marble pavementEphemeris stadium holds 25000
I find it interesting to see cultures containing art. It takes a rich culture to have the ability for spare time to support the arts tome seemed to be above and beyond this. I describe it as decadent. But labor was cheap.
Besides ornate columns and frescos, the Roman’s were great developers of modern culture and survivabiliyy. Sewer systems, water systems water transport. Amazing technology. One thinks of “primitive civilizations as primitive, considering ourselves to be the epitome of civilization, but two thousand years ago people had developed amazing system still in use today.
Communal toilets water flowed under removing the waste. In winter slaves would sit on the marble to warm it before the master.
Of course religion played a huge part of any civilization from the beginning. If anything happened to you, it has been considered to be due to the gods. People always have wondered why or where we came from. Gods gave us the answer. I suppose people believe in a system of fairness. If I am good to the gods and worship them the gods will be good to them. Roman’s were no different. Hence the statues.
Artemis daughter of Zeus Temple to Artemis. One of the 7 wonders of the ancient world. Now gone destroyed in an earthquake. First built in 700 bc, destroyed in earthquake in 300 bc, burnt down in 400 ad. The 130 columns were 20 meters high. Zeus
Just finished another lunch breaking up a 3 hour drive to the southern coast where we board a boat and downs 9 days cruising.
Human history becomes more and more a race between education and catastrophe. H.G. Wells
I knew nothing about this area of turkey, even it’s location. I thought it was in Europe, which makes no sense as the European portion of turkey is relatively small. It was a 75 minute flight in an airbus 320 to get here so maybe 350 – 400 miles from Istanbul. Our comments on arrival were it looks like eastern Colorado or New Mexico. Dry, hilly, with sandstone like formation.
Well once again one’s expectations can be very wrong. It is an old volcanic area with collapsed calderas. Much of the “rock” is volcanic tuff, and relatively soft with over laid volcanic lava. It can make some very interesting formations. Here they are like hoodoos of the southwest United States. Columns with hats on top, but here the often look more like mushrooms.
Fairy chimneys
But being populated for thousands of years, it turns out the tuff can be dug out and caves are made. 2000 years before Christ, people were building cities for protection underground. Some of these cities held as many as 20000 people. I equate it to a human termite nest. We visited one today which is now a museum. Fascinating. People, could stay below ground for as long as 6 months well protected living off of grapes and grains stored from last years harvest, protected quite well from invaders. Just a big wheel rolled in front of entrance tunnel and then invaders could be picked off one by one, as only one at a time fits in tunnel. Amazing architecture and design.
Underground roomTunnel between rooms
Amazing when one thinks of “primitive society’s” which were actually quite complex. Ventilation, water, food, cooking, waste, all basically taken care of. They used these cities until about 400 a.d.
The Roman empire extended this far. The Roman empire was built on slavery, and the rulers were considered near equal with the gods. Everywhere they conquered, they allowed local religions to continue and thrive except Christianity. Jesus preached against owning people, and that went against the Roman empire, hence the persecutions. The persecutions continued, and forced many monks to leave and go into hiding. Well they often ended up here in Capadocia. They would go into the little valleys where the rocks could be easily dug out into caves.
Hence capadocia is full of man made caves. The hotels are caves. Nearly all are “cave hotels”. Checking into our hotel, one is guided down tunnels winding various directions. It has taken me 3 days to learn how to get to our room without going “oops, wrong way”.
Passageway to our hotel roomHotel room the linen keeps “dust” from falling on bed.
The monks built not only places to live but churches. Over the centuries since last really occupied by the “criminal” monks about 400 a.d.,the rocks have eroded and the fronts have fallen in or off and one sees the open rooms.
Capadocia cavesChurchSome even had paintings this one dates back about 1700 years
And then on our little tour is the food. Seems all meals start with appetizers and not just a little tidbit, but maybe a dozen or so sauces, dolmas, breads, fruits, cheeses, olives,
Hotel breakfastHome meal appetizers for lunch. Main meal yet to arrive. Making his tomato sauce for home useLunch
Then the desserts, baklava, ice cream or some very tasty thing. Often followed by tea.
Carpets are a big thing here as to cover the rock floor. We went to a carpet place where they make and teach carpets. Oh my what a process. Not just machine made things but hand made often taking months to make a single carpet. And size makes no difference to price. We saw some worth many thousands (and more) which were 30 and 40 centimeters in size. In the end we did buy one and in the purchase I was able to obtain the passcode to make it fly. When it is delivered in 8-10 weeks we shall see if it works.
Flying carpet?Handmade carpets can change colors, tones
Our guide Halil is amazing. A masters degree in tourism and guiding, as well as a student of history and professor of history at the university. His knowledge level and ability to convey it is astonishing. He has made arrangements for a home meal with his wife’s aunt. And several of the beyond superb restaurants are his friends.
Guides relatives gave us a home meal.
It is a tourist area, though and lots of people. The town we are staying in has a population of 2000 with 400 hotels,. Hot air ballooning is quite popular here with about 150 balloons a day going up 250 days a year with the baskets holding up to 24 people. I was the lone hold out of 6 in our group who did not go up. Why, I can’t answer that, but I stayed back and took pictures from the hotel balcony.
Tonite we went to a performance of the whirling dervishes. They are a Muslim religious order but are not really in existence any more. They lived as a monastery which is really a religious school. Turkey is a secular country despite a huge percentage of Muslims, and Turkey does not allow any educational system either public or private to teach religion. It was designed this way to prevent fanaticism.
Whirling dervishes. They would do this for 5 minutes at a time. Program lasted an hour
But what was amazing was tonite talking with the hotel night staff. A refugee from Afghanistan. He left in 2016, as his family was ostracized as relatives had worked for the United States. His English was superb, with Jeanne and I estimating his accent was southwest United States. He just learned different accents.
And as usual I must say in this writing this is what I remember. It may or may not be true but it is as I absorbed it. Hopefully it is the truth. We have been given an incredible amount of knowledge. I try desperately to learn and remember but?
Once again I learn there are different ways of doing things, not better not worse, just different.
The most dangerous world view is the view of those who have never looked at the world.
Alexander von Humboldt
Departed Doha at 2 pm Saturday the 16 September. A huge airport and nice have the hotel to sleep. Sort of attempted to go through customs immigration but many said for the short time we would be gone was a bit dicey, so we never left the transit area. Something the United States does not have: areas where you can stay without going through immigration and security when you are just transferring planes. Very nice.
In anchorage the ticket agent said could only check baggage to Doha and not complete trip as it was a 20 hour layover and too long to hold baggage. When we got to Seattle checking into flight to Doha agent said she could change it to go all the way to Istanbul. If it had only gotten to Doha, we might have not been able to get back into security area and hotel until just before flight.
Arrived Istanbul and got a ride to hotel. A car race driver wannabe, but we got here in good shape, although my bag did not arrive on plane. Qatar airlines said they would deliver when it was found.
Sunday morning met our guide for the next two days,Fulya. She was great, what a wealth of information. History is her passion and there is lots of history here. At the meeting point of Europe and Asia here on the Bosphorus straights, cultures have come together for millennia. My brain is full, and trying to remember and digest it all.
Eastern edge of the Roman Empire, and old aqueducts and the hippodrome where the chariot races were held.
Roman aqueduct 4 th century. (Not the cars and road)
And we went through numerous mosques of various sultans and important people. Like a lot of place the religious sites are built big and grandiose and people like to see.
Ayasofya cami (blue mosque)Ayasofya camiRustin pasha mosqueRusty pasha mosque
The past two days began at about 9 am and lasted until 9 pm walking, seeing, trying to absorb the vast knowledge Fulya was trying to impart upon us.
And of course the one outside our hotel room, note the speakers for call to prayer 5 times daily beginning at 5:45 am
The area is dry and the powers at that time created these gigantic cistern to hold water. We toured one estimating it over a hundred meters long and 50 meter wide and maybe 20 meters deep. Holds a huge amount of water.
The basilica cisternThe basilica cistern
The would stop for lunch at a restaurant which Fulya knew of and each day it was incredible.
Monday lunch did not have the view but awesome food.
Lunch day 2StorageNed and Lucy, dinner on the street.
Sunday evening we took a tour on ferry along the Bosphorus straight, which was delightful. So many boats, one better know the rules of road. Big bulk containers, (no Ukrainian grain though), ferry’s, a cruise ship, private yachts, and a few private boats.
It is an amazing city, as I understand it between 16 and 20 million people. A good transportation system. Took the subway over to Asia today, a very pleasant ride. As with many things once you learn how it is easy. Fun to figure out each city system.
But tonite was awesome. Here is the story. In about 2009 both jeanne and I worked as nurses. One evening a 21 year old fellow, came in having crashed his rental bicycle on day 2 of his trip to make money for the summer. He was on a work student visa (J1) and was planning to make money for a camera, so he could begin work as a professional photographer. Well, his dreams were shattered and he met us by going to surgery with nowhere to go after. We took him home. He stayed with us only a day then returned to the hostel where he could network.
I happened to still have his email and instagram account, and thus contacted him, just before this trip, not knowing if he was around or what. A delightful evening catching up after 14 years. Thinking similar sharing stories and meeting his fiancé, just asked her last week.( although together for many years) he is a professional photographer now and filmmaker.
J. R., Berful, Utku, and Jeanne
One never knows where life will take you, one day you are riding your bicycle, the next moment your hand is broken, and life changes. 14 years later you have dinner with some wondrous people.
My bag showed up just now, 6 hours before our departure. Should I pack or unpack.
If people did not sometimes do silly thing, nothing intelligent would ever get done
Ludwig Wittgenstein
This is turning into a little journal of travels. But somehow I always envisioned it being not only travel but ideas, thoughts and a bit of personal philosophy. Maybe boring, I guess. But it is what I am.
Thus a quick recap of life since returning from Tanzania, Africa. That still remains an amazing trip. Some folks return to africa over and over, and I understand. It was fascinating and one sees things when traveling, overlooked in every day life at home. I, of course, would return on that trip, but there is so much out there and other places beckon. There are 53 very different countries in Africa. I am thinking many folks want to travel to Alaska. Well that is my home, and after nearly 50 years there, I still find it fascinating, and have not come close to doing what there is to do. Jeanne and I have discussed possibly moving to other places, but each time the community brings us to stay. It has its downsides, but it is home. Thus now a recap of past 6 months in alaska.
Hence, again on return from Africa I endeavored to find the joy in home. And we did. Immersed in the ski jumping community, as volunteers, as well as the middle school ski races. It was a busy spring. I did receive my certification to become a national certified ski jumping judge. Whoppee. Not sure what that does, as next national meet I attend is next February, the junior national ski jumping championships. Only one judge allowed from our alaska division, and I have been promoted to “chief of hills”. That means if the hills are not perfect and all the water, electricity, snow, grooming, and physical facilities are not perfect, it is my fault.
Jeanne had surgery on her foot from a long standing problem which was greatly exacerbated while in Africa. It was a rough 6 weeks of non weight bearing, and we have 3 flights of stairs at home. 5 of 12 people on the Africa trip had surgery on return. Only 3 were exacerbated on that trip, 2 were after trip falls.
In April, Zak, the head coach and ski jumping administrator went on a preparatory ski, climbing trip in the mountains behind Alyeska, the downhill ski area where I spent a fair amount of time. He was preparing for a climb and ski off the summit of Denali, in May. When I returned to town from skiing, about 3 pm I got a call that Zak had set off his emergency SOS button on the inreach device. That is major! Turns out the third person down set off a huge avalanche. Brandon tumbled down over a thousand feet, over two cliffs, and somehow did not get buried. He only had a major shattered femur. It required a military high angle rescue, hoisting the litter into the hovering helicopter. It changed a lot of the spring, and summer. Zak and Nate had to ski out.
Avalanche Note zak, Nate , and Brandon mid picture
Summer began and our friend Natasha, one of the ski jumping coaches, asked to go on a river trip with us, as she said we always seem to have such fun and she had never been on a multiple day river trip. Well that is easy to arrange. Zak was scheduled to go but work things got in way.
A mutual friend in Seattle met a traveler, biking and surfing his way from Ushuaia Argentina to Deadhorse alaska, on the north coast and arctic ocean. She quite kindly encouraged him to look me up when trip done. He stayed with us for a week and we thoroughly enjoyed showing off alaska. He has a great video link on Utube called “kooks on bikes“
The summer solstice ski jumping camp was held the week of summer solstice, and was a great event, despite the main water line blowing out on an upgrade we did in the spring. Nothing like being up on the hill trying to figure out how to repair the line quickly, while some 150 people from all over North America are below watching you wondering when they can jump again. The kids were great and seemed to have fun. Kids are kids! On solstice, most of the rules and coaching go out the window, and we turn them loose to jump until 1 am. It is just fun. Ok, Natasha did say no going down backwards.
Hiking day at summer solstice ski jump camp. Portage glacier. 20 years ago this was well under ice.65 meter flightSummer jumping
A great one day bike trip 1 July with zak and Natasha. 23 mile (40 k). Johnson pass trail a few days before it gets too overgrown to ride.
Johnson trail although not all water
Then the river trip. We were planning on the chulitna river and taking 4-5 days, but we needed another boat for safety as just our raft and Natasha in a packraft is not enough margin of safety. Hence we invited Craig and Cyd, who were just returning from a river trip near fairbanks, and had done the chulitna the end of may with family. Craig and I have known each other for nearly 40 years and done numerous river trips together. They live in Utqiagvik, the farthest north point in the United States. Craig is the preeminent biologist about bowhead whale biology. When they come to anchorage I thoroughly enjoy sitting down with Craig with a scotch in hand and discuss the latest in universal discoveries, or scientific explorations. What has the James Webb space telescope discovered, what is the meaning of life, where are we going, and why are we in this handbasket.
Thus we began camping at the put in of the river on the 4th of July for a departure on the fifth. The morning of the fifth Craig and I would spout out some river rules to Natasha who was new to river running. Always have things tied in, in case of a flip, if you get knocked out of boat never be downstream of the boat, and on and on. We were having fun. As we left and I pushed off into the river, I I explained to Craig “this trip we are going to discover the true answers”. And Craig had purchased the fireworks for nightly entertainment, to prove the point.
Put in of the chulitna river
40 minutes into the trip an avoidance of a log log jam caused Natasha to come out of her packraft, and Craig was also out of his boat floating. I was able to get a throw line to Natasha, and got her in our boat, but when we rounded the corner where Craig had floated, with Cyd in their boat, the entire floatable current went into a log jam. Cyd was in the boat, but Craig was gone.
Jeanne, Natasha and I managed to get to a sandbar, avoiding us going into the logjam where Cyd was sitting. We somehow managed to get Cyd off their boat and to our sandbar. Natasha and I worked trying to move their boat with a z drag pulley system, to no avail. There was no sign of Craig. I finally punched the SOS button calling for help through the satellite emergency system. The state trooper helicopter arrived an hour and half later, helping to get us to a safe place on shore, then taking jeanne and Cyd back to cars. Natasha and I with two troopers walking out the kilometer back to road, a heinous 75 minute trek through thick brush, water, mosquitos and horror. Our summer and lives were changed forever. Craig was found 11 days later on a sandbar.
At the memorial in Utqiagvik, Natasha asked before I spoke if I could make it without crying. I said a 60% chance, but I did not even make it through the first sentence. After the memorial numerous of us went out on the beach and had a bonfire watching the midnight sun. (Utqiagvik is 71 degrees north, way above the arctic circle.)
Over the summer there were various reminders of the event, as if we needed that. Various people would find some of our items along the river, and return them. We lost both our rafts but currently most gear has been returned. My friend Geoff and I went into a burger joint in Anchorage and happened on a person who knew of our event. She was heading up a conference, and Craig was to be the lead speaker at a conference on intertidal activity along the arctic, the week after our return.The conference was cancelled. All my questions remain unanswered, and the fireworks are saved for new years.
August found us back with ski jumping, hosting about 15 kids from British Columbia, Canada. They came for a week as their jumps were not at their training level. great fun, and a welcome diversion from our minds. Showing off alaska.
Alas, also in august my 100 year old aunt in Illinois was hit by a car while crossing a street. Jeanne and I went back to Illinois, and despite the reasons celebrated her life with my cousins. She was awesome, and I confess I liked her following this blog. She always had some comment. The last of that generation, for our family.
Now September and currently sitting on a plane again heading out. We departed at 11 am from anchorage, scheduled to arrive Seattle at 3:30 pm, departing at 5:30 pm for Doha, Qatar, a 14.5 hour flight, arriving 6:30 pm tomorrow evening. This is the same flight we took in February, but this time we spend 18 hours in Doha, then fly back to Istanbul, where our current trip starts. We arrive there at 6:45 Saturday evening. It is now Thursday.
If you want the same results keep doing the same thing
When we are no longer able to change a situation, we are challenged to change ourselves.
Victor Frankl
Arriving Arusha with Meru and Kilimanjaro peaks
And thus it is winding down for Jeanne and I. We are the only two left of our group. Due to a airline schedule change we had to stay an extra day here at Katambuga Lodge. The staff are taking incredible care of us. it is wonderful to see a staff which is not totally pressed to get things done. They seem to have time, almost too much. Seems every time I turn around they ask if all ok and if I need anything. In an hour I will find my bar bill for past three days here.
And thinking of the past month and remembering. Of course the animals stand out – mammals, birds, insects reptiles, plants, and thinking of interactions. But also thinking of people and humanity, interactions and history.
I had never thought too much about it, but history can tell a lot about the present. Slavery was a big thing here, dating back to beginning of humanity really , but in Africa it became a modern day commercialized industry. It destroyed cultures and people. Look at the modern world and many countries are messed up because of their slave history. It is hard to just dismiss it and go on without being affected. Look at the United States, it is still suffering 160 years after slavery officially ended.
Then there is colonialism. Similar to slavery but very different. One culture comes in and moves in on another. Africa is full of it as are many places (unnamed). People think they are better than others or are unsatisfied with their lot in life and move elsewhere. As one fellow here I was talking with said colonialism taught the people to be taken’ care of and not fend or think for themselves. Finally colonialism has ended (although one could make an argument takeovers have not.) many years though of subservience did not immediately go away.
Back to the good things – it has been an awesome trip. Both Jeanne and I agree we would do it again in a heartbeat. But every trip is different. Like doing the same bike ride every day. Each day is different. The past is gone and a pleasant memory. The future who knows, but the present is as said a present, enjoy it.
I have said it before when people comment on how wonderful it must be to have the adventures and travels we have had. Yes quite true But I look at it through my lens and everyone has a story and their own adventures.
Ok departed the wondrous lodge after lunch, and shower. Departed at 13:58 now through customs and in lounge (thanks to our status with alaska air). Nice to have a beer in air con without crowding. 3 hours to here. ok Wi-Fi is bad here at airport so will give up for now.
Last lunch TanzaniaBiking about Arusha Doha Qatar arrival Dancing with the Hadza SunsetSunrise SerengetiChimpanzee Giraffes Simba
Ok random thoughts talked with lady returning home to Spain. We agreed Tanzanians very happy and friendly people laughing smiling
COVID was denied in Tanzania. Although numerous people died including the president. Tasmania to the best of my knowledge, depends on about 45% of its economy on tourism, and it halted for 2 years. They were quite happy to see us.
The Tanzanian flag has three colors. Blue for the ocean, yellow for the minerals, green for the vegetation, and black for the people. Public school children wear uniforms in those colors.
And going home. Currently in the cattle corrals at Qatar airport awaiting departure to Seattle. They did not have a full staff waiting for us with fresh juice at airport hotel. This airport is huge. We are in c gates which number well over a hundred. Presuming a, b,& d gates are same.
And home where it is our bed and our food our cooking, our schedules, done our way. As my dad would say not right or wrong just our way.
Six hour plane ride to Doha, Qatar, where again had a hotel room. 45 minutes after landing we were in bed. Slept delightfully and at gate 15 minutes after depart room. Urgently 13 hours from Doha and 1 1/2 hour to go supposedly arriving just before noon Seattle time. Not bad read (audio) one book watched one movie, ate 3 meals watched the map a lot of progress And ponder being cold at home.
In Seattle customs easy but security getting off the plane always cracks me up and never left secure Area. Jobs program. Now have been through 3 to get here. Plus 1 to get off plane.
jrpatee 