Autumn colors are starting and Jeanne and I wanted to view them, as we did 3 years go on a train trip to Fairbanks, from anchorage. It was then the height of COVID, and you had to stay in seats, for entire ride, and they only sold every other seat. Ok we had an awesome time and colors were spectacular, especially the Siberian larches north of Denali park. That was about third week in September.

Jeanne had inquired early last week, but train travel totally sold out. Despite Alaska closing up after Labor Day (first Monday of September), numerous people had not heard that, and the cruise ships and tourists are still about. On Thursday she called and obtained a cancellation, for Saturday.

We had made arrangements to pick up a friends parents in Seward on Friday so it was a busy day. A delightful,drive meeting the parents at 8 am at Seward dock as they exited an 8 day cruise through the inside passage of alaska. We toured town reviewing where Brandon’s dad had worked in 1979, and out to exit glacier. It had receded even farther than a few months ago when we were there, with earlier summer visitors. Up late with dinner with them, then an 8 am departure on train. Much easier than flying, as one shows up 15 minutes early and boards.

Exit glacier view September 2024

The problem with Alaska railroad, it is noted and famous for being one of the slowest in the world. The drive of 350 miles (750 k) to Fairbanks can be done in 6.5 hours with minimal traffic. The train schedules 12, for essentially same distance. But, the views are amazing and continuous, so lots of time to see. When a moose or bear was sighted the conductor would announce it and several people were able to see it, me not being one of them. I did see several swans and of course ducks, and grebes.

The train begins in Anchorage and our seats were first in car, hence we had a wall in front of us, blocking view. Near immediately we went up to dome car, where one is supposed to stay only 20 minutes to give others a chance. I do not think it ever filled up, and we stayed there most of trip.

Once when stopping to pick up passengers along the way, and the conductor describing how to open and close doors, as well as walk along the moving train. He advised the train cars were sort of like most of the people riding the train – somewhat old, set in our ways, sometimes cantankerous, but unique. And it was true of the 6 cars, each was unique and without a commonality of design other than wheels on track. Some doors you pushed, some you pulled, some you pushed a button, either on floor or on the door. Quite interesting.

Along the way, unfortunately someone developed a medical emergency and it was deemed an ambulance was needed. We stopped at a place called hurricane and waited an hour and half for one to arrive from either Palmer or Talkeetna a hundred miles south. I did see the patient walk off the train with assistance into ambulance.

Interesting to hear the speculation on what happened. I am sure none were involved with the “emergency” but were willing to explain what happened.

We arrived in Fairbanks at 10:30 – 2 1/2 hours late. Too late and dark to see the colors. Our friend Clif arrived and shuttled us to his place, for a wondrous sleep.

Sunday an awesome breakfast at more friends, then to the antique car museum. Fairbanks, it turns out has one of the best antique car museums, anywhere. Maybe 50 cars ranging from late 1800s with electric motors and steam engines. Turns out batteries were a problem then and people did not like sitting on a steam boiler, which on occasion burst. Latest cars were late 1930s. And bit of trivia, where the saying “that’s a deuzy” came from. From the old deussenberg car, a fine machine. The word station wagon comes from the 1911 model T Ford, which was designed to carry passengers from train station to hotel.

A flight home and begin prepping for next little adventure, obtaining tickets to ride the train, circumnavigating the lower United States, what we in Alaska call the lower 48. Coming up now is a ferry ride from Dutch Harbor to Homer a distance of a 1000 miles (1600 kilometers).

We just drove two cars to Homer, leaving one for our arrival next week on ferry. The flights from Homer to Anchorage are ridiculous a $250-$300 person.