Winter activity

The pleasure lies not in discovering truth

But in searching for it.

Leo Tolstoy 

Winter has arrived in Anchorage. Fall was one of the warmest on record and it just seemed to never cool down. The grass remained green. It was time to progress to winter according to the usual standards. I remember in 1995 we could ski out our door, on 5 October. OK I admit a bit of any anomaly but I declared that is the way it should be. Has not happened since and since the turn of the century, winter is often questionable. It is depressing. We had the SAD light out every morning, and the sunrise came later every day. Finally a trip to Seattle, and when we returned there was snow, and it cooled down. Amazing how our spirits rose. Not only was there snow, and I mean usable skiable snow, but it provided white to reflect the light at night and brighten things up. Our mental attitude vastly improved. Then it got cold, meaning winter was finally here. I say winter consists of three things – dark, cold and snow. If you only have dark that just does not cut it.

Zak melting snow off the snow gun with a propane torch. Last winter November 2024

I volunteer at the ski jumps, and making snow in the fall is a big deal, given the last years of warming trends. Last year, being one of the worst on record for warmups, we had to make snow 4 times, as it melted 3 times with horrible warmups, warm temperatures, and often wind, and sometimes rain, destroying the hard work.

January 13 2025 last winter, after a severe warmup. We did ice skate on it, but no skiing

This year though it got cold and the small downhill ski area near here (Hilltop ski area) and next to the ski jumps began blowing snow. Making snow is a process of spraying huge amounts of water under pressure to build the piles of snow needed. The temperature has to be below 25 degrees F. ( about -6 C) otherwise just water sprays out. The colder the better. At the ski jumps we use the Hilltop water from a local creek but there is only so much they can pump. They have a much larger area to cover and it takes a lot of time, as well as they require almost a meter to cover the lumps, bumps and rocks in the ground, as well as provide enough for potential meltdowns later. Their business model is a bit different than ours so they get preference, as it is their water. (They have to make money, we have to provide fun and activity) Hence when they get enough to cover enough area to open the area for a run or two of skiing, they then let us use one of thirty water connections. It works out good, as we need 3-4 days to cover our area and they require weeks. Good neighbors.

As Hilltop made enough snow for one good run, it was time for us, and it warmed up. Ugh. All snow making ceased. The natural snow and snow they had made remained but no snow making, until it cooled off. Temps went up to the mid 40s (8-9 C)

But after weeks of fretting and worrying, it cooled off again this time cold. The director of the ski jump program, Zak, gave clearance to start making snow. When one starts blowing snow it is a continuous process. Lay out the hoses and electrical cord, and get the snow gun in place. That takes about an hour, as the hoses are 50-150 feet long (15-45 meters) and we lay out nearly 500 feet (150 meters). When the water starts flowing at up to 100 gallons a minute (375 liters/ minute), if for whatever reason it gets turned off or stops flowing it can freeze in the hose within minutes, thus once you stop making snow it is continuous because to shut down is about a 2 hour process, taking hoses back and hanging them to drain and dry.

Ski trails near ski jumps. Awesome cross country skiing and biking

I love volunteering because I get to do useful work and get to do all sorts of stuff I never get to normally do. Plumbing, electrical, carpentry, design, and see the smiles and joy as the kids reap the rewards. Not only physical but mentally with figuring out how things work. We have what one calls a shoestring budget, and everything is very dear in terms of money, hence we are the crew.

The mental aspect is great as we have to not only figure out how to do something, but how to do it safely. Working with heavy equipment, in the cold has its potential problems. Not only is the water at way below freezing temperature, but the snow gun uses 440 volts and has its issues also, as well as the ski jumps have a 35 degree slope to contend with.

Over the years Zak and I have learned some tricks to make it safer and easier, and less tiring. Used to be when we blew snow one had to go and ski pack it closely after it was made, otherwise a hard crust would form over hollow snow. Then we obtained a snow cat 12000 pounds (5400 Kg) of tracked compaction and grooming capacity. One can blow snow into a pile and push it around and smooth it out. Wonderous labor saving device. And hilltop ski area has a night crew so the past two years Zak and I can set the gun for the night and they have offered to watch it. (Requires a minimum of every 2 hour verifying the water is flowing correctly and the fan and compressor are working.) Hence we can go home and sleep and not have to catnap on the floor, as in past.

Karl Eid Ski Jump Complex
Snowcat on the outrun pushing snow to appropriate location
Natasha and Jeanne brought dinner to the area

But we began setting up last Thursday and began blowing on Friday. We worked the gun, moving it around as necessary to the appropriate location. It is easier and more efficient to blow in places needed, rather than drag it around. We hoped to be done by Tuesday.

Approaching sunrise after a night of blowing snow. 8:45 am

All worked well, and the small 10 and 20 meter jumps were covered with about a foot of compacted snow (30 cm) . Zak, Natasha (another ski jumping coach) dragged the snow gun up the 40 meter hill pulling the water lines and electrical extension cord along with. It took a huge amount of work to get it down as it had to be pulled down through the new snow. Then the 65 meter hill ( which has a length of 120 meters, plus the runout area).

Working the machine down the 40 meter hill. It is stuck.
Working end of snow gun. Compressed water shoots out the nozzles and is blown by a meter wide fan, blowing it 10-30 meters, allowing the water to freeze hopefully before it hits the ground.

Monday we started working it up the 65 meter hill. We were counting down the distance remaining to go. Then with 35 meters to go (moving it 20 meters at a time) I was working on the hill pulling the water and electrical lines out from under the snow, when there was a loud pop, and the electricity cutoff, only water shooting out of the snow gun. I climbed the hill and turned on the power again, returning to get the lines out from the area now being covered by ice. This time though when I grabbed the extension cord it popped and sparks flew. I later told the boss of Hilltop ski area I was getting bored and his response was “well 480 volts will give you some excitement”)” this time it did not restart as the system had shorted and fuses blown. We had to shut down. Turn off the water, and drain hoses and fix extension cord.

Results of shorting out a 440 volt extension cord. (Lesson learned do not pull the line on extension cords, use the end pieces designed for disconnecting)
an hour after sunset Pix at 4:30 pm. Mt Redoubt.

It took all day Tuesday to repair the line as one has to work systematically in order to find the correct area. Turns out it was on the cord of machine and could not get the broken piece down hill or inside to warmth, thus had to work outside in temperatures around -4 F (-20 C) with fine detail work. Fun! or what I call fun! Why would one sit on a beach with nothing to do when you can do this.

Ski jump practice going on while blowing snow

It was a great relief after several trys when we got new hoses and plugged in the machine and it worked blowing snow. Again we could stand under the new snow coming out of machine being blown at 30-40 mph (50 – 60 km/hr). One comes away covered in an ice layer.

Snow cat in place for final movement of snow gun. 9:30 pm

We managed to get it blown Tuesday evening and set it up to blow a final pile of snow for areas missed. Wednesday Zak shut it down. Afraid I was totally exhausted.

Finishing work overlooking Anchorage

And now winter is in full swing. Of course could use some natural snow, but barring any meltdowns we are set. Past week and forecast for next week is good with temps around zero (-20 C) . Am happy have figured out how to dress for it and let the fun begin. As I walked a trail yesterday there were bikers and skiers out just enjoying the wondrousness of winter. Supposed to be northern lights out last night but my eyelids were closed.

Now I need to go for another walk while the sun is at its peak of 6 degrees above the horizon.

Wisconsin

Thinking is difficult, that is why most people judge.

Karl Jung

Traveling is always an iffy business. Generally, animals face their highest risks while traveling on migration. And I feel much the same when traveling. Things do not always go as expected. From Carson City, and a wonderful visit with friends there, we went to Reno to fly to Chicago. Unfortunately, Alaska Airlines’ flight was delayed 3 hours, which put us into Seattle at the same time our plane to Chicago took off. In their generosity, AlaskaAir was going to rebook us to Chicago, arriving at 5:30 a.m. That sort of voided the hotel, which was already paid for and meant no sleep for the baseball game. Jeanne is a Sapphire, Gold member with Alaska Airlines and got on the phone. Using her sugar and spice attitude, she managed to rearrange us on American Airlines to Phoenix and onto Chicago, arriving at the same time as the first flight.

This trip started with Maralyns invitation, in May, to go to Frenchglen. Then my cousin, Tom, visited us this past summer, and said we should come to his cabin on Pine Lake in wisconsin. He sweetened the offer with a baseball game at Wrigley Field. From there the trip progressed to include visitations of various friends and relatives scattered in the area. Seems we know a fair number of people, whom we keep in contact with.

Arrived Chicago, Friday at 12:30 am, train to hotel, and my cousin Tom picked us up at 11 am. We had lunch and onto the baseball game. Chicago Cubs vs the St.Louis Cardinals, an old rivalry. I had been to one professional game in my life in 1991, but had to leave due to an illness. I was excited.

Wrigley Field Chicago Cubs vs. St. Louis Cardinals

We walked in just as the national anthem begun. Wrigley field is one of two iconic baseball fields in the United States, Fenway park in Boston being the other. Holds approximately 45,000 people which is a lot of energy. Apparently much of its charm is it is not a big megalopolis complex but a neighborhood baseball field. Parking is about the neighborhood. I like baseball, but am far from a diehard fan and especially not a tribal member. I just like good baseball. Jeanne grew up in St.Louis and Tom is a diehard Cubs fan so was interesting. The game was awesome, with the energy, watching the goings on, especially with home runs, scores, changes in innings, the singing, the cheering. The 7th inning stretch, the final winning celebratory song, and of course the the beer, which cost $15 per beer, but I wanted the whole experience and it was 91 degrees F (32.8 C), and we were in the sun. Enjoyable to watch the players setting up in their positions. I thought they were checking their phones, but they were checking the stats of the batter.

Walking to car after game

Then off to my cousins place, an hour out of town, and spent the night. Great to catch up. He had visited us this past summer, but now on his turf. Always interesting to see people in their own environment. His wife Ilona ws caring for her agin father from Hungary, and was unable to attend baseball or the cabin, but delightful to see her, meet her father, and see the farm.

Saturday was to be a big day. We started, with an hour drive south, to Jeanne’s cousin who had just moved from their house of 54 years into an apartment complex. They were quite appreciative, that we had come to visit, despite it only being a couple hours.

Cousins Betsy, & Don

Then back north and to Eau Claire, Wisconsin, with more visiting. This time, some friends of ours and parents  of a ski jump coach in Anchorage.  We saw where Natasha grew up and became Natasha. A 50-meter ski jump in the backyard. But alas, the visit is short, as the day is progressing. I do not drive as well at night, so I am trying to get to the lake cabin before dark. It was good visit though.

Visiting Lisa and Dan Mattoon
Mattoon Backyard

We made it to the cabin on Pine Lake only an hour after dark, avoiding the evening deer, wandering the forest roads. My sister, had arrived from Montana and her family, 4 hours earlier, guiding us by flashlight the final few hundred feet of rough road. Tom , my cousin, arriving shortly before her, not having to stop and visit along the way.

Pine Lake Wisconsin
Pine Lake Cabin

The cabin was built in 1933 by my Aunt Shirleys Uncle Henry. There is actually a UTube video of it of 1933 quality. (Construction of Pine Lake cottage 1933) It has passed down through the family, and Tom currently has it. He is a very gracious person, host, and we felt very welcome. We just explored, walking, going out on the boat, several loons coming out to meet us. Occasionally diving under the boat swimming incredibly gracefully.

Watching Loons
Common Loon

One delightful morning my sister and I took the boat out and watched the sun rise. Incredible woods with colors just beginning to change, with the variety of trees. Maple, white pine, ash, birch, larch, and others unidentified by me.

Sunrise Pine lake
Lake Exploration

Evening found us playing the game of aggravation. This is a board game played by our family for generations. Currently nearly all farmily members have a board made by some member of the family. I have never seen a commercial game similar. We probably played a dozen games over the three days.

Day three was another cubs baseball game and Tom is an avid follower. For me it was not the same. Pure baseball with no seeing the in-between stuff. You don’t see in between innings. The seventh inning stretch was a commercial. The announcer explaining every move so very little thought as to what was happening. Ok I am being negative. It just was not the same as in person, although good baseball. Apparently Eddie Veder led the seventh inning song.

Practicing Being Old (my niece Sara defining us)
New friends

Then time to depart, oh sweet sorrow again. As is often the case sometimes a short visit is better than too long, as it leaves you wanting to come back for more. But traveling on, this time to Zak’s parents on the Michigan – Wisconsin border. a 4 hour drive. It all seems so close when looking at a map from a long ways away, but in reality the world is a big place.

Arriving early evening, Mike and Carol took us out to a local “supper club”. Apparently that is a Wisconsin thing. I am always fascinated by local traditions and culture. I was amazed at the prices. $12.00 for a 8 oz steak with full baked potato and salad. $140 for 4 people with alcohol for dinner. At home that would be double that.

Hammill visit Jeanne, Carol, Mike, J. R.

Thursday, Mike and Carol took us on a tour of the area. Various industries, places they had lived, and of course the Pine Mountain ski jump complex. A 120 meter jump, Olympic size only set up for winter jumping. Fascinating to see other jumps, construction style and materials. More ideas.

Returned to their home and we were going to head out for a little river excursion on the Menamenee River behind their house. No boat for all 4 of us, but decided on two small boats with 2 hp motors. While Mike got some gas for motors and other stuff, it fell upon me to just test out the boats. First one worked great, second one he warned me his concerns. I thought he said the motor was difficult but what he said was the boat was tippy and difficult. Whatever. In I go after checking out the first boat. Just 30 meters upriver and return. Did great, turned around, but alas the seating was difficult to drive the motor and I turned myself in the boat. This threw off the balance, which I did not expect and over I went. The boat and motor completely tipped over on top of me. I easily got out from under, was able to stand and pushed it into the proper upright position. Unfortunately, completely full of water with the motor submerged. On shore I hear Carol and Jeanne laughing hysterically. I think they may have peed their pants laughing so hard. I pulled the boat back in, emptied it out but the motor was soaked.

Menominee River adventures
Recovery
Return from the river

It seemed our river trip was not to be. I was totally soaked along with wallet and phone. Instead of river trip we opted to sit around the fire, just enjoying the evening.

Evening stories
Share airport train from car rental to airport

A few adventures during the night, then a long drive back to OHare airport and two long flights home to Anchorage. Arrived at 3 am and fell into bed exhausted, but full of memories of friends and family.

Frenchglen, Oregon weekend

Failure is where we learn the most.

Faith Dickey (professional highliner)

My friend Maralyn is a friend from Seattle. I first met her as a freshman in Colorado College. This happened, shall we say, over 50 years ago. She is as I describe, a poor starving artist who is one of the most delightful people you could ever meet. She has gone to this little hotel in Frenchglen, Oregon for over 40 years as a little retreat. This year she invited us and we made the time available, mid to end September. I checked for reservations and alas very full, and this was May_June. Geez who thinks that far ahead? But got them and on waiting list for Friday night, which was successful two weeks prior to our arrival.

Then, one of my cousins, while visiting this summer said we needed to come visit, enticing us with a baseball game at Wrigley Field, in Chicago. I have been to one- half of a game in St, Louis. OK-it seemed we could tack it on to the Frenchglen trip. Then there is the “family cabin which my cousin Tom has in mid Wisconsin, not too far. Well the trip has ballooned into a huge visiting people. to be revealed. Jeanne flew into San Francisco, rented a car, and drove to a friends house to visit in Gilroy, the garlic capital of the world. Then to friends near Yosemite National Park where she worked and lived for 4 years. Two days there and on to another friend who used to live in Alaska and now is a campground host.

Jeanne picked me up in Reno, Nevada Thursday night. Friday we drove to Frenchglen, a small unincorporated town in southern Oregon. It is near the Malheur Wildlife refuge. A drive of about 380 miles(611 kilometer) made in about 6 1/2 hours, stopping Winnemucca, Nevada to visit more friends. Driving north, I recognized the area as a desert. It was transitioning into high desert, similar to Southern Idaho where I spent grades 1-8 going to school there.

I did learn that it is not really what I called a high desert – sagebrush, cold winters, hot summers, very dry. It is not a desert which by definition is very little precipitation. Frenchglen gets about 15” (38cm) of precipitation a year, similar to(slightly less) than Anchorage, Salt Lake City. Seattle gets about 40″ (101cm). It snows a lot in the winter in Frenchglen and the Steens Mtn. scenic loop does not open until late May or later, due to snow. Turns out sagebrush requires too much water to live in a desert. Thus the area is actually called a shrub steppe. Whoopee.

We stayed at the Frenchglen hotel, registered on the National Historic register since 1924. A delightful place, although as with old wooden hotels, one wants to check the fire escapes when you move in. Meals are family style, which leads to wonderful conversations, with what I would call an eclectic group. There were several artists. They worked in oils, watercolors, and wood. A couple worked in environmental areas. They also occasionally worked in theatre as performers and directors. A seismologist, a geologist, and an architect were also present. One lady had worked in Los Angeles as an accountant. She tired of being inside, and her family was in Oregon. She quit her job, became a truck driver, and moved near Astoria, Oregon. A variety of people and delightful conversations.

Sunrise

The last morning, Maralyn and I were watching the sunrise from the front porch when a pickup truck pulled up. An apparent local then came in, and Maralyn and I hit him up before the front door was closed. Delightful character answering our numerous questions concerning ranching in the area. His job for the day was transporting 3 truckloads of hay to a ranch farther north. The big round rolls of hay. We learned a huge amount about hay and bailing it up, transporting for the winter. The coffee finally finished, and we all had to precede with our day.

But driving there one looks out and goes “there is nothing here, what have I signed up for” But I knew it is a “desert”, and what there is there, is definitely hiding and one has to look to see. Deserts are full of life. You just have to open up. Look as if you were in the desert, not as a human. Fascinating places but these areas require a change of attitude to see the glories.

The first day everyone proceeded to their own destinations. First I queried the geologist on the local geology. Geologists are generally incredibly passionate about geology, and almost always are willing to share their knowledge. This one very much so. I got a quick and dirty semi advanced geology lesson of lava flows, basalts, and such.

Jeanne and I drove the Center Patrol Road (CPR) sort of down the middle of Blitzen River Valley. Stopping to view turkey vultures, ranches, the river, drainage ditches, and efforts to control invasive critters and weeds.

Then came the visitor center at Malheur wildlife refuge. the visitor center was closed, not for lack of visitors or any known reason. But the book store and nature center was open and the volunteer there was delightful and informative.

We proceeded to the narrows between some ponds and viewed all sorts of birds. I am not much at identifying birds, but it is fascinating watching them. We hoped to see the western grebes dancing across the top of the water. Unfortunately, they just wanted to run about the water. Stopped at Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Areas too view volcanic result

Sunday, Maralyn and Mary, who attended Colorado College with me and have maintained close contact ever since, along with Jeanne, drove the Steens Mountain Loop. The road is a 60 mile (100 k) loop. It goes from Frenchglen, which is at 4200 feet elevation (1280 meters), and rises to 9500 feet (2895 meters). Several canyons originate near the summit ridge. The aspen trees were beginning to change colors. But the best part was to spend a wondrous day with these three ladies.

Wildhorse Lake and a selfie.
Kiger Canyon

Boxed Lunchs

Alvord Desert

Monday, most people were departing, making room for a new set of visitors. Jeanne and I headed south. We went off course once to visit the Alvord Desert. It’s below Steens Mountain on the opposite side from Frenchglen. Stopped at Fields at the one store and got a milk shake. A repeat of the drive up, a long 6 hour drive to Reno. We visited Neva, who had come up to visit this summer. We delivered a photo book and video of her trip to Alaska this past summer. She is 13 years old and had spent 10 days with us.

It was a long day. I fell asleep early and long. Now in Carson City, Nevada visiting another good friend.

Road Trip II

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Departed Hazelton and made it the 45 km to Kitwanga for breakfast at roadside gas station. Only game around and ordered the 2x2x2x2 breakfast- 2 eggs, 2 bacon, 2 ham, 2 spam, 2 toast, and hash browns. Then on to the totem park, for a quick tour, then began the 450 miles (724 km)of Cassiar Highway. We have done it several times winter and summer. and always a treat. Not as developed as the Alaska Highway, being more winding and mountainous. We expected a fair amount of traffic due to the Alaska highway being closed, but not bad. Had no issues whatever. And the scenery was great. It is entirely paved now except for tiny sections undergoing construction. As before though the southern end is much better than the northern end which gets a bit rough and narrower.

Kitwanga totem park
Great rest stops and frequent.
180 degrees from previous picture
Approaching Stikine river Bridge.

A tiny room barely enough room to squeak around the bed and a shared bathroom.

We realized we were probably not going to make it the entire Cassiar unless we pushed later than we like. I looked at Jade City, a mining place with, I thought a motel and restaurant. We had the Milepost – the guide to driving the highways, byways and routes to and around Alaska. It listed only a small 4 room motel and no restaurant. The next one was another 75 miles (120km) going south when we reached the Alaska Highway to Watson Lake. Dease lake motels were full and it was only 2 pm, way too early to stop there, so on we went to see what Jade City offered. We arrived at about 7 pm and motel seen, but office closed up. Jeanne knocked and a nice lady came and unbolted some major dead bolts. They negotiated a price involving credit card, cash, Canadian money, and American money. Settled on $120 US with a 10 dollar Canadian change given. Price was $110 so we lost a bit, but it was the last room, so we got a place to stay. We had eaten a fair quality hamburger in Dease Lake, so food was not an issue.

Picture taken from opposite corner.

“In the morning supposedly they had breakfast, but none to be found. We flunked the coffee making in Keurig coffee machine managing to spill water all over the counter and floor using up precious coffee modules. As another resident said “us old people don’t do well with the fancy coffee machines. How about just a percolator or the drip kind” Fancy coffee machines, but they give powdered creamer with the coffee.

On to Nuggett City at the junction of Cassiar and Alaska Highway for breakfast. One item only 2 over easy eggs, ham, hash browns, and toast, but you can upgrade to bacon if you want. No changes including changing over easy scrambled eggs. They could do the eggs over hard though. Again flexibility is required.

Then Whitehorse which we have always liked. The town has never let us down. Arrived a bit early for stopping but one must at least walk to the Yukon and Miles Canyon, which we did. Realized our friend Sheila, back in Portland Oregon, had said to eat some donut holes from Tim Hortons for her. Tim Hortons is a Canadian chain of restaurants scattered all over Canada. Thus to fulfill our obligation, knowing it was last Tim Hortons for us, on this trip, we went into town and ordered donut holes. Then discussing later plans we realized food later was again going to be shall I say not at a time we wanted. One must be very flexible when driving the highway. Thus we ordered a sandwich and a chicken bowl. Sandwich OK, bowl very good.

.

Miles Canyon Yukon river

The discussion continued about plans. We had hoped to be back to Anchorage by Tuesday night, making it a five day drive. It seems though 500 mile days (800 km) is a bit much for us not leaving anytime for hiking, viewing stopping and just unlaxing at rest areas. Have done the trip in 3.5 days but it was drive, sleep quick, drive, and eat in car. Seems a crime through such beautiful country. From Whitehorse it is 706 miles home (1136 km). Doable but not really fun. Thus maybe stay in Whitehorse. The fires are done and a bit of rain cleared the air, so air quality is good. I have said 8 days is a reasonable quick trip. I did the trip about 10 years ago and told myself I had all the time I wanted. Alas after 4 days I had only gone 350 of the 2400 miles. I picked up the pace and did it in 12.

There is a delightful hot springs outside Whitehorse which we have often stayed at. We found it the first time on a winter drive. It delighted us soaking in the hot pools at -20 degrees (-30C), mallard ducks overwintering in the pool swimming with me.

1990 Takhini Hot Springs ducks

We checked at going to Takhini, but it seems they have gone to a high end spa type. The old bunkhouse hostel has been turned into a high end Air B & B. I guess they don’t want our types any more. 300/night 2 night minimum. We opted for a downtown motel, and walked about Whitehorse. We found ourselves at a delightful restaurant and bar- The Dirty Northern. We ate outside in sunshine and had a couple appetizers and booze. A delightful waitress who could not give recommendations as she was only 18 and drinking age is 19.

Thus here we are in Tok, Alaska after a 385 mile day (611 KM). Not sure what is going on but hotels and restaurants are packed. Locals say it is just tourists but I have never seen crowds like this. Guess I usually camp or just don’t pay attention in the summer. Again for the third time on this trip we got the last room. It is a few miles out of town in a little cabin.

Since departing last thursday we have travelled 2162 miles (3479Km) in 5 days with 44 hours and 6 minutes of driving. Hopefully tomorrow home with about 385 miles (619 Km) left. We started with sunset at 9:05 pm in Portland and tonight the sun sets at 11:48. A bit farther north. and solstice next week. Almost forgot to write the animal count. several deer, hare, squirrels, 1 dead porcupine, 1 moose, a sow grizzly and cub, 3 fox, swans, hawks, and the list goes on.

And getting into the United States was probably the easiest time I or we have ever had. Showed passports waited 30 seconds and he said enjoy our day. ????

Roberts Lodge in Tok, Alaska

Summertime

The question is not what you look at, but what you see

Henry David Thoreau

Summertime in Alaska is always greatly anticipated. Warmth, green, life abounding. It is a treat to watch the season progression. Seems whenever someone asks me what is my favorite season, somehow it always seems to be the season we are currently in. I love the changes and advancement, although I might take an exception to springtime. It drags on and is often muddy and dirty, as the snow melts and the misled garbage and dirt from the winter makes its appearance. This past year was weird as we had very little snow, and when it melted the leaves and green were yet weeks away. We got an extra month of brown. But now we are in full summer. Someone once told me Alaska in the summertime is just various shades of green everywhere.

Years ago I had worked In Barrow, now Utqiagvik, at 71 degrees north. I returned to Fairbanks the first of June and had been in snow, ice, since October. I remember flying in and my eyeballs hurt from suddenly seeing green, and the smell. Oh the smell was incredible.

But now summer is in full swing, and there is an extra energy about. Hence the boat tour in Southeast Alaska, and trails opening up. And people begin coming out more. I am surprised every year by how much more activity there is in the summer. More people, more cars on the road, and of course what would Alaska be without visitors.

Jeanne’s family has not been here to visit in 25 years and it was time. This past week we have been hosting their visit. Jeanne’s sister, brother-in-law, niece, husband, 5 year old son, nephew, and Jeanne and I. Of course we want to show off our home, and I think we have been doing a fair job of doing that. Glen Alps hiking, Eklutna Lake viewing, the Amoosement Park in Palmer, Thunderbird Falls hike, Musk Ox farm, glacier and wildlife boat tour out of Whittier, Kincaid Park, and now in Seward.

Yesterday Jeanne and I dropped the family at the Anchorage train station at 6 am where they proceeded on the 5 hour trip via Grandview to Seward. Jeanne and I drove in the absolutely pouring rain arriving a few hours after they did. (We had some business to do, delaying our departure). A visit to the Sealife Center, where the aquarium is I feel a great experience for viewing wildlife, not exactly in the wild but one can see the puffins, guillemots, and murres swimming underwater, and the harbor seals, and sealions. I confess my favorite was the aquarium of seemingly empty sea water, but when you put a magnifying lens to it, the zooplankton were swimming about. Plus the intertidal touch ponds, and lots of information. Not like the real thing but certainly easier than reality to access.

Today we will walk the beach a bit, depending on rain, then we will go to Exit glacier, for annual check of how far back the glacier has receded. Amazing to think of the glacier face on the river plain and one could touch it (safely). Now it has melted back miles and lost hundreds of feet of depth. Amazing to see. We always tell people if you want to see glaciers do it now, because they won’t be here in the not so distant future. Absolutely amazing phenomenon, although I find most things in nature phenomenal.

Nobbe, Lakey, Molitor, and Patee clan
And looking to the Northwest with a view of Anchorage and Denali if you can see through the clouds.

Amoosement Park
Backyard moose real
Thunderbird falls
Sealife Center
Receding Glaciers Cascade, Barry, and Cox. When I first went there the three were connected.
Cascade and Barry Glacier in 1989.

It is a treat to show off our home. It falls into the category of it may not be perfect, but for me, this is a pretty amazing place to live.

A close call

One must from time to time attempt things which are beyond one’s capacity

Pierre-Augusta Renoir 

A thrilling adventure!

Jeanne and I usually celebrate her birthday in Talkeetna, a charming town north of Anchorage, between Christmas and New Year’s. But this year, a friend invited us to their cozy cabin nestled north of Talkeetna, about 30 miles away. We left the day after Christmas, arriving before the sun dipped below the horizon at 3:30 p.m. Bud, our friend, picked us up in his snow machine with a trailer, ready to take us the mile to the cabin. Bud and Lulie, who have owned the cabin since 1988, spend most of the winter season there. They’re always welcoming visitors, so we felt right at home.

One of the best parts was that there was enough snow to ski! Anchorage has snow in October, but the warm weather in late November and beyond has melted most of it. The temperatures have been too warm to even make snow for the ski trails and jumps. Ice has been present, and falls are a major concern. But luckily, the studs around the tires of our bikes made it safe to explore the trails.

Bud and Lulie’s cabin is a true gem, and Bud takes great care of grooming miles and miles of trails. Jeanne and I decided to go out just as the sun was setting for a lovely ski. The next day, everyone thought a good ski was in order. Bud wanted to do a 4-5 mile loop to build up his strength on his new hip. Both he and Lulie are passionate about their dogs and have even competed in international ski touring events. Bud wanted to go skiing with his dog and suggested that I follow his tracks since there was only a couple of centimeters of fresh snow. The temperatures were perfect, around -5 C (25 F). I decided to give it a try.

Bud took off, with me not far behind. Of course, he was gone quickly, out of sight, but his tracks and the dog tracks were quite visible. The sky was a bit cloudy, but the forecast looked promising.

So, I was just enjoying the peaceful skiing through the flat country. It was amazing to see the swamps of summer covered in snow. The scrub black spruce trees stood tall, almost reaching the sky, with barely enough limbs to catch the new snow. About 2 miles into my ski, it started snowing, not exactly what I had planned. It was coming down pretty hard, maybe 1-2 cm an hour. If it kept up, I’d be buried in no time! The ski tracks were getting covered, but I could still see the snow machine width pack.

I kept going, but the snow started falling even more, and the visibility dropped to 2-3 miles. I could still hear the road of the Parks Highway between Anchorage and Fairbanks, but I knew if it snowed much more, the sound would be muffled. The snow was definitely coming down more than a centimeter an hour. In 5 hours, my skis would be buried unless I lifted them up.

Then, I started thinking about the Donner Party. Would I be in the same situation as those unfortunate souls caught in the Sierra snow? Those folks either saved themselves or some of them by resorting to cannibalism. Oh my, this is getting a bit scary! I moved on the ski trail, crossing another snow machine track, and the ski tracks were gone for that meter of crossing. Donner Party thoughts kept coming to mind.

Then, I realized I was all alone, unlike the Donner Party, where they had 147 morsels to choose from. I decided to keep going, the snow starting to lighten up a bit. The GPS said I was starting to turn back toward the cabin. I passed another friend’s cabin, but I knew he was still in Anchorage for the holidays.  

So, I had this wild idea to try and free my foot from the trap. I mean, I’ve heard stories of animals chewing off their limbs to escape, right? But then I realized, ‘Uh-oh, this is gonna be scary.’ And guess what? I hadn’t even had a shower in 24 hours! My foot was totally out of commission. I was stuck! But then, the snow stopped falling, and I decided to take a deep breath and brave the elements. I made it back to the cabin, about 45 minutes behind Bud. Bud and I had a blast gathering water from the spring a few miles away using the snow machines. It was such a fun task! On our way back, we ran into the three ladies who were returning from their ski trip. Jeanne was absolutely thrilled about skiing, calling the conditions ‘pure butter’.  

Yesterday Bud drove us to the road where we left our car, and we proceeded to Talkeetna.  We are now celebrating Jeanne’s birthday at the cabin in downtown Talkeetna.  Beautiful day, sun is blasting down from its 4 degrees above the horizon.  

Finally some awesome skiing
Sunrise
Sunset over Denali