There is not past, no future, everything flows in an eternal present.
James Joyce
Winter has progressed here and as my friend Geoff says “this is the 52nd unusual year in a row”. This year is the same. Seems every fall we ask each other our predictions for winter. Two years ago we had huge amounts of snow (I believe it was about 135inches (3.4 meters)) Last year I cannot remember the amount but it was warm and rained a lot. Not unusual to get a warm up and rain, but used to be unusual for it to last more than a day or two. Last year it was horrible with ice. And I find temperatures just above freezing are the worst. One gets wet either rain, or sweating. If it is below freezing one can dress so much easier.
It is best to not try and predict the future too much, although with climate change one can predict a definite warming trend. Geoff also says Anchorage had a near perfect average yearly temperature of just below freezing, now it is just above freezing and that freezing line makes a huge difference. Cannot always count on being able to enjoy whatever ones desired activity. One has to develop a quiver of different activities, hence winter biking has taken off, and ice skating with its variety of modes (speed, hockey, figure, cruising)
This year has been actually a relief. We had a two day warm up with a bit of rain, but no wind. The snow we made. at the ski jumps, remained and then it was snowed on top making going outside pleasant. Overall the snow was very late in coming though which slowed the skiing activity. Alyeska the local downhill ski area had posted “caution early season conditions” until mid January. I have wrecked a lot of skiis getting out too early. Unknown gullys, ice, sticks, brush and groud create a lot of hazards.
Last week I finally braved going to Alyeska, and it was a total joy to be out and sliding down the slopes on thin planks. Seems though the world wants to get on skiis as fast as they can and the resorts love to open up early. I find though why not wait until conditions are better, warmer, and more daylight. The season hopefully lasts into May, although by then the resorts and a lot of people are ready to move on to other activities. I find spring skiing is the best.
Although far from perfect, Anchorage is a wonderful city. The trail system is acknowledged one of the best in the country, and with hundreds of kilometers of groomed cross country trail. Always seems to surprise people when they travel elsewhere and discover they have to buy a pass to ski or bike. The Nordic Ski Association maintains the trails and encourages donations but paying is voluntary. Of course it would be difficult to collect a daily fee as the trails wind all over Anchorage and their are hundreds if not thousands of entry points.
The community is amazing here. People will make ice hearts and distribute about the trails. Just brightens ones life to find a sculpture hidden amongst the trees. I have not found any this year, but often a local coffee shop will distribute free coffee cards, again hidden along the trails. For New Years someone had gone to a local lake and chain sawed a big circle, which then rotated around. Apparently last year they go so many people on it all were standing ankle deep in water. And coming up is the Tour of Anchorage annual ski race. 50 km starting near our house and traveling up into mountains, down through downtown along Cook Inlet, around airport, and ending at Kincaid Park. A delightful ski, through town and cheering crowds on incredibly groomed trails.I confess I have not done it in 6 years but used to be the highlight of the ski season, for us. Ski alongside Olympic skiers and beginners and awesome scenery.
Thus no grand adventures and travels this winter, but just being here for the winter has been an adventure. All were counting down the days to winter solstice when Anchorage sunrise is at 10:12 am and sunset at 3:41 pm with a high for the sun is about 5 degrees above the horizon, just cruising along the horizon. Currently now the sun gets 12 degrees above the horizon and we gain 5 minutes and 20 seconds of light every day, half way between solstice and the equinox. Hooray. I can’t help it, but I do like sunshine.
And without any grand adventures to post, here are photos from past couple of months here in Anchorage.
New Years Day bike ride to celebrate at a local downtown restaurant. Cook Inlet New Years day. Supply ships navigating the ice and currents.Some of crew on New Years bike ride. Standing on the cut out circle of iceIce forest decorations at botanical garden. Flat Track Roller DerbyHomeNot much better than sitting next to a roaring fire, with a good read, looking outside when temperature is -20 degrees exclaiming how much I love winterAlyeska Ski area top looking out to Turnagain Arm of cook InletAlyeska half way down with a foggy Cook InletTour trail – find the blue heart View North 150 miles (240 km) with from left -Mt. Russell, Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter, and Denali. (only the tall ones named here)Cubs night at the ski jumps ( new entry level kids. (5 years old)Gasoline trailCreative Heart design of ice and botanicalsBlue ice heart along trailSolstice celebrationView along coastal trail looking at downtown Anchorage along Cook InletPanorama 180 degrees from last picture of sunset and end of International airport runway.
Winter has arrived in Anchorage. Fall was one of the warmest on record and it just seemed to never cool down. The grass remained green. It was time to progress to winter according to the usual standards. I remember in 1995 we could ski out our door, on 5 October. OK I admit a bit of any anomaly but I declared that is the way it should be. Has not happened since and since the turn of the century, winter is often questionable. It is depressing. We had the SAD light out every morning, and the sunrise came later every day. Finally a trip to Seattle, and when we returned there was snow, and it cooled down. Amazing how our spirits rose. Not only was there snow, and I mean usable skiable snow, but it provided white to reflect the light at night and brighten things up. Our mental attitude vastly improved. Then it got cold, meaning winter was finally here. I say winter consists of three things – dark, cold and snow. If you only have dark that just does not cut it.
Zak melting snow off the snow gun with a propane torch. Last winter November 2024
I volunteer at the ski jumps, and making snow in the fall is a big deal, given the last years of warming trends. Last year, being one of the worst on record for warmups, we had to make snow 4 times, as it melted 3 times with horrible warmups, warm temperatures, and often wind, and sometimes rain, destroying the hard work.
January 13 2025 last winter, after a severe warmup. We did ice skate on it, but no skiing
This year though it got cold and the small downhill ski area near here (Hilltop ski area) and next to the ski jumps began blowing snow. Making snow is a process of spraying huge amounts of water under pressure to build the piles of snow needed. The temperature has to be below 25 degrees F. ( about -6 C) otherwise just water sprays out. The colder the better. At the ski jumps we use the Hilltop water from a local creek but there is only so much they can pump. They have a much larger area to cover and it takes a lot of time, as well as they require almost a meter to cover the lumps, bumps and rocks in the ground, as well as provide enough for potential meltdowns later. Their business model is a bit different than ours so they get preference, as it is their water. (They have to make money, we have to provide fun and activity) Hence when they get enough to cover enough area to open the area for a run or two of skiing, they then let us use one of thirty water connections. It works out good, as we need 3-4 days to cover our area and they require weeks. Good neighbors.
As Hilltop made enough snow for one good run, it was time for us, and it warmed up. Ugh. All snow making ceased. The natural snow and snow they had made remained but no snow making, until it cooled off. Temps went up to the mid 40s (8-9 C)
But after weeks of fretting and worrying, it cooled off again this time cold. The director of the ski jump program, Zak, gave clearance to start making snow. When one starts blowing snow it is a continuous process. Lay out the hoses and electrical cord, and get the snow gun in place. That takes about an hour, as the hoses are 50-150 feet long (15-45 meters) and we lay out nearly 500 feet (150 meters). When the water starts flowing at up to 100 gallons a minute (375 liters/ minute), if for whatever reason it gets turned off or stops flowing it can freeze in the hose within minutes, thus once you stop making snow it is continuous because to shut down is about a 2 hour process, taking hoses back and hanging them to drain and dry.
Ski trails near ski jumps. Awesome cross country skiing and biking
I love volunteering because I get to do useful work and get to do all sorts of stuff I never get to normally do. Plumbing, electrical, carpentry, design, and see the smiles and joy as the kids reap the rewards. Not only physical but mentally with figuring out how things work. We have what one calls a shoestring budget, and everything is very dear in terms of money, hence we are the crew.
The mental aspect is great as we have to not only figure out how to do something, but how to do it safely. Working with heavy equipment, in the cold has its potential problems. Not only is the water at way below freezing temperature, but the snow gun uses 440 volts and has its issues also, as well as the ski jumps have a 35 degree slope to contend with.
Over the years Zak and I have learned some tricks to make it safer and easier, and less tiring. Used to be when we blew snow one had to go and ski pack it closely after it was made, otherwise a hard crust would form over hollow snow. Then we obtained a snow cat 12000 pounds (5400 Kg) of tracked compaction and grooming capacity. One can blow snow into a pile and push it around and smooth it out. Wonderous labor saving device. And hilltop ski area has a night crew so the past two years Zak and I can set the gun for the night and they have offered to watch it. (Requires a minimum of every 2 hour verifying the water is flowing correctly and the fan and compressor are working.) Hence we can go home and sleep and not have to catnap on the floor, as in past.
Karl Eid Ski Jump ComplexSnowcat on the outrun pushing snow to appropriate locationNatasha and Jeanne brought dinner to the area
But we began setting up last Thursday and began blowing on Friday. We worked the gun, moving it around as necessary to the appropriate location. It is easier and more efficient to blow in places needed, rather than drag it around. We hoped to be done by Tuesday.
Approaching sunrise after a night of blowing snow. 8:45 am
All worked well, and the small 10 and 20 meter jumps were covered with about a foot of compacted snow (30 cm) . Zak, Natasha (another ski jumping coach) dragged the snow gun up the 40 meter hill pulling the water lines and electrical extension cord along with. It took a huge amount of work to get it down as it had to be pulled down through the new snow. Then the 65 meter hill ( which has a length of 120 meters, plus the runout area).
Working the machine down the 40 meter hill. It is stuck. Working end of snow gun. Compressed water shoots out the nozzles and is blown by a meter wide fan, blowing it 10-30 meters, allowing the water to freeze hopefully before it hits the ground.
Monday we started working it up the 65 meter hill. We were counting down the distance remaining to go. Then with 35 meters to go (moving it 20 meters at a time) I was working on the hill pulling the water and electrical lines out from under the snow, when there was a loud pop, and the electricity cutoff, only water shooting out of the snow gun. I climbed the hill and turned on the power again, returning to get the lines out from the area now being covered by ice. This time though when I grabbed the extension cord it popped and sparks flew. I later told the boss of Hilltop ski area I was getting bored and his response was “well 480 volts will give you some excitement”)” this time it did not restart as the system had shorted and fuses blown. We had to shut down. Turn off the water, and drain hoses and fix extension cord.
Results of shorting out a 440 volt extension cord. (Lesson learned do not pull the line on extension cords, use the end pieces designed for disconnecting)an hour after sunset Pix at 4:30 pm. Mt Redoubt.
It took all day Tuesday to repair the line as one has to work systematically in order to find the correct area. Turns out it was on the cord of machine and could not get the broken piece down hill or inside to warmth, thus had to work outside in temperatures around -4 F (-20 C) with fine detail work. Fun! or what I call fun! Why would one sit on a beach with nothing to do when you can do this.
Ski jump practice going on while blowing snow
It was a great relief after several trys when we got new hoses and plugged in the machine and it worked blowing snow. Again we could stand under the new snow coming out of machine being blown at 30-40 mph (50 – 60 km/hr). One comes away covered in an ice layer.
Snow cat in place for final movement of snow gun. 9:30 pm
We managed to get it blown Tuesday evening and set it up to blow a final pile of snow for areas missed. Wednesday Zak shut it down. Afraid I was totally exhausted.
Finishing work overlooking Anchorage
And now winter is in full swing. Of course could use some natural snow, but barring any meltdowns we are set. Past week and forecast for next week is good with temps around zero (-20 C) . Am happy have figured out how to dress for it and let the fun begin. As I walked a trail yesterday there were bikers and skiers out just enjoying the wondrousness of winter. Supposed to be northern lights out last night but my eyelids were closed.
Now I need to go for another walk while the sun is at its peak of 6 degrees above the horizon.
Failure seldom stops you. What stops you is the fear of failure.
Jack Lemmon
Interesting summer, but that is usual. In Alaska seems there is no such thing as a normal summer. At the beginning of the summer several of us were discussing the usual,quandary of what will the season be like. The choices were rainy, cool, cloudy, or hot, dry and smoky. Predicting the future is always a go to conversation and almost always a waste of time. It will be what it will be. But we continue with the predictions of the future.
After the boat trip in southeast, it seemed an auspicious beginning, but the weather forecasts often stated otherwise. Cloudy rain were the predictions, but often did not come true. 3 times this summer I arose in the morning, as usual and read the weather report, 3 times it said it was raining and going to rain all day. I looked outside and had to remember basic weather. Does not rain require clouds, as it was a blue sky, clear day. Sometimes you have to think for yourself and not depend on others. The summer turned out to be one of the best. And I am backed up by the energy output of our solar panels. 2nd best year in 8 years. 3700KW this year.
Summertime in Alaska for us these days means visitors. The story I tell, although short and to the point as well as a story is, we had visitors every day from June 4 until the 24 of July, with 7 days off of which we flew to Portland Oregon and picked up a car we had purchased and drove it home, a 2500 mile trip.
New used car from Portland Oregon enroute to Alaska
It occurs to me that when one is home one does not think of it as an adventure or a trip or such thing. It is just normal life. But why does everyone come to Alaska to visit on vacation. I live here, just normal existence, and do not write about it because it is just normal.
Visitors bring out the spectacular in Alaska. We did the 26 glacier cruise day trip, viewing, yes, 26 glaciers although they are shrinking fast and are not as spectacular as in the past. ( But then what isn’t better in my memory) We did it twice. For me though, the Kenai Fjords tour is taking over, as the spectacular one. Both see wildlife and glaciers, and despite some people saying “If you have seen one glacier you have seen them all”, I never tire of glaciers. Always interesting always changing, always spectacular.
Pacific coastline covered in kittiwakes, gulls and a sea lionHiking Matanuska glacier
And the wildlife, stellar sea lions, puffins, (tufted and horned), salmon, a smack of jellyfish, bears, goats, sheep, moose, seals, herons, the list goes on and on.
Did some work building new stairs for jumps (250 steps)Backyard mooseBackyard
And our freezer is full of fish. Fortunately or unfortunately I am not one who necessarily enjoys fishing for the sake of catching fish. Get a net and catch what you need and move on to something more fun. Different strokes for different folks.
Mt Huntington summit French ridgeRuth glacier landingMcLaren river valley Blueberry pickingOne of the worlds largest Ukrainian flags
And so goes summer 2025, now into the fall season. One of main discussions is what will the winter bring, miserable warm no snow, or cold and good snow. ?? the questions of the future go on.
The question is not what you look at, but what you see
Henry David Thoreau
Summertime in Alaska is always greatly anticipated. Warmth, green, life abounding. It is a treat to watch the season progression. Seems whenever someone asks me what is my favorite season, somehow it always seems to be the season we are currently in. I love the changes and advancement, although I might take an exception to springtime. It drags on and is often muddy and dirty, as the snow melts and the misled garbage and dirt from the winter makes its appearance. This past year was weird as we had very little snow, and when it melted the leaves and green were yet weeks away. We got an extra month of brown. But now we are in full summer. Someone once told me Alaska in the summertime is just various shades of green everywhere.
Years ago I had worked In Barrow, now Utqiagvik, at 71 degrees north. I returned to Fairbanks the first of June and had been in snow, ice, since October. I remember flying in and my eyeballs hurt from suddenly seeing green, and the smell. Oh the smell was incredible.
But now summer is in full swing, and there is an extra energy about. Hence the boat tour in Southeast Alaska, and trails opening up. And people begin coming out more. I am surprised every year by how much more activity there is in the summer. More people, more cars on the road, and of course what would Alaska be without visitors.
Jeanne’s family has not been here to visit in 25 years and it was time. This past week we have been hosting their visit. Jeanne’s sister, brother-in-law, niece, husband, 5 year old son, nephew, and Jeanne and I. Of course we want to show off our home, and I think we have been doing a fair job of doing that. Glen Alps hiking, Eklutna Lake viewing, the Amoosement Park in Palmer, Thunderbird Falls hike, Musk Ox farm, glacier and wildlife boat tour out of Whittier, Kincaid Park, and now in Seward.
Yesterday Jeanne and I dropped the family at the Anchorage train station at 6 am where they proceeded on the 5 hour trip via Grandview to Seward. Jeanne and I drove in the absolutely pouring rain arriving a few hours after they did. (We had some business to do, delaying our departure). A visit to the Sealife Center, where the aquarium is I feel a great experience for viewing wildlife, not exactly in the wild but one can see the puffins, guillemots, and murres swimming underwater, and the harbor seals, and sealions. I confess my favorite was the aquarium of seemingly empty sea water, but when you put a magnifying lens to it, the zooplankton were swimming about. Plus the intertidal touch ponds, and lots of information. Not like the real thing but certainly easier than reality to access.
Today we will walk the beach a bit, depending on rain, then we will go to Exit glacier, for annual check of how far back the glacier has receded. Amazing to think of the glacier face on the river plain and one could touch it (safely). Now it has melted back miles and lost hundreds of feet of depth. Amazing to see. We always tell people if you want to see glaciers do it now, because they won’t be here in the not so distant future. Absolutely amazing phenomenon, although I find most things in nature phenomenal.
Nobbe, Lakey, Molitor, and Patee clanAnd looking to the Northwest with a view of Anchorage and Denali if you can see through the clouds.Amoosement ParkBackyard moose realThunderbird fallsSealife CenterReceding Glaciers Cascade, Barry, and Cox. When I first went there the three were connected. Cascade and Barry Glacier in 1989.
It is a treat to show off our home. It falls into the category of it may not be perfect, but for me, this is a pretty amazing place to live.
You are perfectly cast in your life.I can’t imagine anyone but you in the role.Go play.
Lin-Manuel Miranda
Has been a while in writing and I confess remiss. AS they say “My bad”
But here we are in Sitka Alaska prepping for a cruise. We have turned into cruise people I guess. Well this one is a 49 passenger 8 day trip through Southeast Alaska. It covers a lot of the area Jeanne and I kayaked in 8 weeks back in 1992 on our “honeymoon” trip. I suspect people will tire of Jeanne and I telling stories of a particular area. We are excited and have already been reliving memories of that awesome trip.
Sitka totem park pioneer home 1992
2025
Sitka has quite the history first with local Tlingit Natives and various native tribes, then invasion by the Russians for furs in early 1700’s. The Tlingits took back the area in 1802, but the Russians retook it in 1804. In 1867, Russian having overextended itself transferred its colonies and holdings to the United States. Although a price was paid of 7 million dollars it was never sold, because they never owned it. It was native land, which never became actually realized until 1971 with the Alaska Native claims settlement act. History is crazy. As one movie said history is “just the story of one bloody thing after another”.
Sitka itself is a hodgepodge of historical and modern stuff. The russian church, still active, the battlefields, the bishops house, the castle on hill now gone, and the totem park which we visit again this afternoon. Currently lots of tourists off the cruise ships. Interesting as there are advertisements all over to vote for or against limiting the numbers. The current ship holds 3000 passengers and a 1000 crew, into a town of 6000. the sidewalks are packed with folks walking gift shop to gift shop.
Next day and we again walked to totem pole park and walked about the wood and big trees.
Delightful day with lunch at food truck of fish tacos, and dinner of salmon cooked to perfection. One little incident where i was asked politely where from and when told I was from Anchorage, their response was I am sorry. Funny how people hate Anchorage because it is the big bad city. And we walked downtime fighting our way through the crowds of tourists.
Sitka has an election coming up to limit the tourists to 100,000 a year. Last year they had 300,000 in a town of 6000.