Turkey

Time is an illusion. Lunchtime, doubly so.

Douglas Adams

Heading home, sitting on plane from Antalya to Istanbul, then transfer to SAW airport on other side of Istanbul, a distance of maybe 60 kilometer. Now 8:40 am, flight to Doha departs 8:00 so lots of time. Traveling always interesting, but I do remember studying biology that migration is a dangerous time. Ok do not lose passport!

Past days on boat were great, relaxing. Returning to Kas from Greece Ned and I had heard about great haircuts so decided to give it a try. An hour and 15 minutes later we were not only better looking but totally relaxed and could hear better. Haircut, massage and ear cleaning all for 500 lira total (about $17 each)

Ned and J. R. Celebrating haircuts

The days were spent swimming, anchoring in beautiful quiet hidden coves, hiking during day often meeting the boat in a new cove or town.

Evening outside of Kas
Nightly extravaganza Sea Bass tonite
Ending hike in rain
Myra stadium

Last day on boat we went to more Roman ruins, at Myra and a delightful kayak up a meandering stream with loggerhead sea turtles swimming in the fresh water. A difficult hike to 5th century BC temple to Apollo, and later 2nd century AD church.

Arrived in Finike, home port of the Cavalari, and we boarded bus for 2 hour trip to Antalya. A Roman city of Perge, a walk in old town, an excellent museum which timelines history of man in this area starting about 2 million years ago. Interesting to see the development of pots and pottery, and the development of religion, and worship of various sorts. Another hot day.

Passengers and crew

And so another trip ends and homeward bound. Lots to look forward to at home. But still reflecting on this journey.

Turkey is an amazing place. So much history and potential. I knew before leaving there would be a massive amount of history and there is. My poor brain is very full trying to digest and categorize.

Someone else has already done this with Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hellenistic, Lycian, Roman, Byzantine, crusades, on and on. As someone pointed out history is just one thing after another. But Turkey is really at the crossroads. To the south is the Mediterranean and Africa. To the north is the Black Sea and Ukraine and Russia. To the northeast lies the historically allied countries of what I call the stans- Turkmenistan, kurgistan,, Georgia, Afghanistan, etc and Iran. Southeast lies Syria and Iraq.

Over the centuries humanity has travelled through Turkey to get between Western Europe and the far East. Each area has its culture and “tribe”, usually, if I am correct in thinking that “one’s own home “ culture” is the best. Hence Turkey has been “run over” by various cultures through history. Back and forth expanding contracting. Each leaving an impression and artifacts.

Humans are gregarious and like to be with other humans, but they tend to not like those different, and will fight them to overcome them. Fighting between tribes, cultures, countries seems a human activity. We have not developed an ability to learn without trying to change.

Some of those cultures were quite impressive ie the Roman’s. A culture so rich it developed great works of art and technology, advancing the human species. But it was built on the backs of slaves, which to me negates the progress.

One of the things I wanted to learn in coming here was not just the history, but where is it going? Oh yeah predicting the future ! So here is my take which with $10.00 will buy you a cup of coffee. ($5.00 if you leave out my ideas)

Turkey is an advanced country taking care of its people. It is not immune to problems throughout the world, but is maintaining itself, but trying to accept others. Migration is a huge problem, dare I say much worse than what the United States considers its problem, Syria, Russia are the big migrants, but numerous others. They try and integrate, with education, health, etc. but it is overwhelming. It is a problem bigger than my brain can handle and I am rambling

Religion in Turkey is Islam, but it varies by what one calls religious. I believe officially it is about 95% Islamic, but when one talks with various folks 40% may be more accurate, depending how one measures religious practice. I find the important point is it is secular, in that there is no state religion and the state cannot preach it. Schools , even private schools cannot teach religion. What a concept, to be allowed to think for yourself. Religion is a huge topic unto itself, and I intend to research it further, perhaps even attempting to read the Bible again. (I confess I have tried but get lost easily)

But I am afraid it is only the first day of travel. We have covered 2 continents, gone through 4 securities, 1 passport control, and have not left Turkey. Ok I am tired

We never saw what in the United States we would call homeless, and in asking never really got an answer as to why. Basically health care is covered, and homelessness as we know it is illegal. If someone is homeless in inclement weather they are housed in a hotel or safe place. But I never found a real answer.

Clean well, transport is good and easy, people friendly although English not always, although we are in Turkey.

Aegean Sea

Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice

Anton Chekhov

Well we boarded the Cavurali and it took a while to get our sea legs, and not in a balance sort of way, but adapt and change to boat life which is different, charging electronics only when generator running or the air con, or sleep in cabin or on deck, closer quarters etc. and the first night was very hot. Sweat rolled off both jeanne and I all night. Rough!and the boats in area, well are over the top. Cavurali is 65 feet and one of the tiniest around. “Fancy people”

But next day much better. We had gone out from Goche, and anchored where able to just jump off and swim. Sweet, very sweet!the first full day went on hike about 8 kilometer which was delightful although again very hot. Our new guide Enver, who also owns and arranges the tour we are on, took us to some “nomads living in hills, who served us sage tea and bread with delicious olive oil. Fabulous.

Cleopatra baths
Hiking
Enver and our hosts

Return to boat and did some great swimming again. I tried swimming into a limestone cave , but gave up she. It got dark and I could see no more. Swimming in the dark dark was not to my liking and I returned to the open water with light.

Moonlit evening
Breakfast fruit, olives, cheeses, bread, eggs
Jeanne pointing to Cavurali
Interior sidewalk of monastery Gemiler Adasi. Interior to crate a breezeway in heat.

More ruins, later in day again hiking over the hills with boat driving around to new spot where we would hike in. After hiking around an abandoned village over the top and down to new cove, where we were met by the day tripping boats which are party boats with loud music. We quickly left for a serene quiet anchorage and again enjoyed swimming, kayaking.

Today off early and again dropped at a cove where we had breakfast, then hiked up a pass in the heat. A van picked us up and off to Roman ruins of Patara, which also is near the beach and swimming. Turns out st. Nicholas was born on that beach. How Santa Claus was born there in the year 325 ad, and ended up at the North Pole I do not know.

Patara city street to harbor

The city of Patara apparently was visited by the apostles of Jesus Luke and Paul. Ok! It had its water supply from 20 kilometer away. Is and amazing aqueduct.

Roman aqueduct built approximately 100bc

Another home visit this time with friends of Envar. Again absolutely amazing food.

Lunch
Stuffed eggplant and stuffed pepper with turkish ravioli

Tonite we are in the harbor of Kas, between an Italian yacht I estimate 175 feet long, with crew of five, and a I estimate 120 foot yacht with Palau flag, registered in Delaware, but is russian. Then on opposite side is a Turkish military ship the Kas, which Charles and I went onboard and got a tour. Interesting

Some sort of gun

Cappadocia

Human history becomes more and more a race between education and catastrophe. H.G. Wells

I knew nothing about this area of turkey, even it’s location. I thought it was in Europe, which makes no sense as the European portion of turkey is relatively small. It was a 75 minute flight in an airbus 320 to get here so maybe 350 – 400 miles from Istanbul. Our comments on arrival were it looks like eastern Colorado or New Mexico. Dry, hilly, with sandstone like formation.

Well once again one’s expectations can be very wrong. It is an old volcanic area with collapsed calderas. Much of the “rock” is volcanic tuff, and relatively soft with over laid volcanic lava. It can make some very interesting formations. Here they are like hoodoos of the southwest United States. Columns with hats on top, but here the often look more like mushrooms.

Fairy chimneys

But being populated for thousands of years, it turns out the tuff can be dug out and caves are made. 2000 years before Christ, people were building cities for protection underground. Some of these cities held as many as 20000 people. I equate it to a human termite nest. We visited one today which is now a museum. Fascinating. People, could stay below ground for as long as 6 months well protected living off of grapes and grains stored from last years harvest, protected quite well from invaders. Just a big wheel rolled in front of entrance tunnel and then invaders could be picked off one by one, as only one at a time fits in tunnel. Amazing architecture and design.

Underground room
Tunnel between rooms

Amazing when one thinks of “primitive society’s” which were actually quite complex. Ventilation, water, food, cooking, waste, all basically taken care of. They used these cities until about 400 a.d.

The Roman empire extended this far. The Roman empire was built on slavery, and the rulers were considered near equal with the gods. Everywhere they conquered, they allowed local religions to continue and thrive except Christianity. Jesus preached against owning people, and that went against the Roman empire, hence the persecutions. The persecutions continued, and forced many monks to leave and go into hiding. Well they often ended up here in Capadocia. They would go into the little valleys where the rocks could be easily dug out into caves.

Hence capadocia is full of man made caves. The hotels are caves. Nearly all are “cave hotels”. Checking into our hotel, one is guided down tunnels winding various directions. It has taken me 3 days to learn how to get to our room without going “oops, wrong way”.

Passageway to our hotel room
Hotel room the linen keeps “dust” from falling on bed.

The monks built not only places to live but churches. Over the centuries since last really occupied by the “criminal” monks about 400 a.d.,the rocks have eroded and the fronts have fallen in or off and one sees the open rooms.

Capadocia caves
Church
Some even had paintings this one dates back about 1700 years

And then on our little tour is the food. Seems all meals start with appetizers and not just a little tidbit, but maybe a dozen or so sauces, dolmas, breads, fruits, cheeses, olives,

Hotel breakfast
Home meal appetizers for lunch. Main meal yet to arrive.
Making his tomato sauce for home use
Lunch

Then the desserts, baklava, ice cream or some very tasty thing. Often followed by tea.

Carpets are a big thing here as to cover the rock floor. We went to a carpet place where they make and teach carpets. Oh my what a process. Not just machine made things but hand made often taking months to make a single carpet. And size makes no difference to price. We saw some worth many thousands (and more) which were 30 and 40 centimeters in size. In the end we did buy one and in the purchase I was able to obtain the passcode to make it fly. When it is delivered in 8-10 weeks we shall see if it works.

Flying carpet?
Handmade carpets can change colors, tones

Our guide Halil is amazing. A masters degree in tourism and guiding, as well as a student of history and professor of history at the university. His knowledge level and ability to convey it is astonishing. He has made arrangements for a home meal with his wife’s aunt. And several of the beyond superb restaurants are his friends.

Guides relatives gave us a home meal.

It is a tourist area, though and lots of people. The town we are staying in has a population of 2000 with 400 hotels,. Hot air ballooning is quite popular here with about 150 balloons a day going up 250 days a year with the baskets holding up to 24 people. I was the lone hold out of 6 in our group who did not go up. Why, I can’t answer that, but I stayed back and took pictures from the hotel balcony.

Tonite we went to a performance of the whirling dervishes. They are a Muslim religious order but are not really in existence any more. They lived as a monastery which is really a religious school. Turkey is a secular country despite a huge percentage of Muslims, and Turkey does not allow any educational system either public or private to teach religion. It was designed this way to prevent fanaticism.

Whirling dervishes. They would do this for 5 minutes at a time. Program lasted an hour

But what was amazing was tonite talking with the hotel night staff. A refugee from Afghanistan. He left in 2016, as his family was ostracized as relatives had worked for the United States. His English was superb, with Jeanne and I estimating his accent was southwest United States. He just learned different accents.

And as usual I must say in this writing this is what I remember. It may or may not be true but it is as I absorbed it. Hopefully it is the truth. We have been given an incredible amount of knowledge. I try desperately to learn and remember but?

Once again I learn there are different ways of doing things, not better not worse, just different.