Winter activity

The pleasure lies not in discovering truth

But in searching for it.

Leo Tolstoy 

Winter has arrived in Anchorage. Fall was one of the warmest on record and it just seemed to never cool down. The grass remained green. It was time to progress to winter according to the usual standards. I remember in 1995 we could ski out our door, on 5 October. OK I admit a bit of any anomaly but I declared that is the way it should be. Has not happened since and since the turn of the century, winter is often questionable. It is depressing. We had the SAD light out every morning, and the sunrise came later every day. Finally a trip to Seattle, and when we returned there was snow, and it cooled down. Amazing how our spirits rose. Not only was there snow, and I mean usable skiable snow, but it provided white to reflect the light at night and brighten things up. Our mental attitude vastly improved. Then it got cold, meaning winter was finally here. I say winter consists of three things – dark, cold and snow. If you only have dark that just does not cut it.

Zak melting snow off the snow gun with a propane torch. Last winter November 2024

I volunteer at the ski jumps, and making snow in the fall is a big deal, given the last years of warming trends. Last year, being one of the worst on record for warmups, we had to make snow 4 times, as it melted 3 times with horrible warmups, warm temperatures, and often wind, and sometimes rain, destroying the hard work.

January 13 2025 last winter, after a severe warmup. We did ice skate on it, but no skiing

This year though it got cold and the small downhill ski area near here (Hilltop ski area) and next to the ski jumps began blowing snow. Making snow is a process of spraying huge amounts of water under pressure to build the piles of snow needed. The temperature has to be below 25 degrees F. ( about -6 C) otherwise just water sprays out. The colder the better. At the ski jumps we use the Hilltop water from a local creek but there is only so much they can pump. They have a much larger area to cover and it takes a lot of time, as well as they require almost a meter to cover the lumps, bumps and rocks in the ground, as well as provide enough for potential meltdowns later. Their business model is a bit different than ours so they get preference, as it is their water. (They have to make money, we have to provide fun and activity) Hence when they get enough to cover enough area to open the area for a run or two of skiing, they then let us use one of thirty water connections. It works out good, as we need 3-4 days to cover our area and they require weeks. Good neighbors.

As Hilltop made enough snow for one good run, it was time for us, and it warmed up. Ugh. All snow making ceased. The natural snow and snow they had made remained but no snow making, until it cooled off. Temps went up to the mid 40s (8-9 C)

But after weeks of fretting and worrying, it cooled off again this time cold. The director of the ski jump program, Zak, gave clearance to start making snow. When one starts blowing snow it is a continuous process. Lay out the hoses and electrical cord, and get the snow gun in place. That takes about an hour, as the hoses are 50-150 feet long (15-45 meters) and we lay out nearly 500 feet (150 meters). When the water starts flowing at up to 100 gallons a minute (375 liters/ minute), if for whatever reason it gets turned off or stops flowing it can freeze in the hose within minutes, thus once you stop making snow it is continuous because to shut down is about a 2 hour process, taking hoses back and hanging them to drain and dry.

Ski trails near ski jumps. Awesome cross country skiing and biking

I love volunteering because I get to do useful work and get to do all sorts of stuff I never get to normally do. Plumbing, electrical, carpentry, design, and see the smiles and joy as the kids reap the rewards. Not only physical but mentally with figuring out how things work. We have what one calls a shoestring budget, and everything is very dear in terms of money, hence we are the crew.

The mental aspect is great as we have to not only figure out how to do something, but how to do it safely. Working with heavy equipment, in the cold has its potential problems. Not only is the water at way below freezing temperature, but the snow gun uses 440 volts and has its issues also, as well as the ski jumps have a 35 degree slope to contend with.

Over the years Zak and I have learned some tricks to make it safer and easier, and less tiring. Used to be when we blew snow one had to go and ski pack it closely after it was made, otherwise a hard crust would form over hollow snow. Then we obtained a snow cat 12000 pounds (5400 Kg) of tracked compaction and grooming capacity. One can blow snow into a pile and push it around and smooth it out. Wonderous labor saving device. And hilltop ski area has a night crew so the past two years Zak and I can set the gun for the night and they have offered to watch it. (Requires a minimum of every 2 hour verifying the water is flowing correctly and the fan and compressor are working.) Hence we can go home and sleep and not have to catnap on the floor, as in past.

Karl Eid Ski Jump Complex
Snowcat on the outrun pushing snow to appropriate location
Natasha and Jeanne brought dinner to the area

But we began setting up last Thursday and began blowing on Friday. We worked the gun, moving it around as necessary to the appropriate location. It is easier and more efficient to blow in places needed, rather than drag it around. We hoped to be done by Tuesday.

Approaching sunrise after a night of blowing snow. 8:45 am

All worked well, and the small 10 and 20 meter jumps were covered with about a foot of compacted snow (30 cm) . Zak, Natasha (another ski jumping coach) dragged the snow gun up the 40 meter hill pulling the water lines and electrical extension cord along with. It took a huge amount of work to get it down as it had to be pulled down through the new snow. Then the 65 meter hill ( which has a length of 120 meters, plus the runout area).

Working the machine down the 40 meter hill. It is stuck.
Working end of snow gun. Compressed water shoots out the nozzles and is blown by a meter wide fan, blowing it 10-30 meters, allowing the water to freeze hopefully before it hits the ground.

Monday we started working it up the 65 meter hill. We were counting down the distance remaining to go. Then with 35 meters to go (moving it 20 meters at a time) I was working on the hill pulling the water and electrical lines out from under the snow, when there was a loud pop, and the electricity cutoff, only water shooting out of the snow gun. I climbed the hill and turned on the power again, returning to get the lines out from the area now being covered by ice. This time though when I grabbed the extension cord it popped and sparks flew. I later told the boss of Hilltop ski area I was getting bored and his response was “well 480 volts will give you some excitement”)” this time it did not restart as the system had shorted and fuses blown. We had to shut down. Turn off the water, and drain hoses and fix extension cord.

Results of shorting out a 440 volt extension cord. (Lesson learned do not pull the line on extension cords, use the end pieces designed for disconnecting)
an hour after sunset Pix at 4:30 pm. Mt Redoubt.

It took all day Tuesday to repair the line as one has to work systematically in order to find the correct area. Turns out it was on the cord of machine and could not get the broken piece down hill or inside to warmth, thus had to work outside in temperatures around -4 F (-20 C) with fine detail work. Fun! or what I call fun! Why would one sit on a beach with nothing to do when you can do this.

Ski jump practice going on while blowing snow

It was a great relief after several trys when we got new hoses and plugged in the machine and it worked blowing snow. Again we could stand under the new snow coming out of machine being blown at 30-40 mph (50 – 60 km/hr). One comes away covered in an ice layer.

Snow cat in place for final movement of snow gun. 9:30 pm

We managed to get it blown Tuesday evening and set it up to blow a final pile of snow for areas missed. Wednesday Zak shut it down. Afraid I was totally exhausted.

Finishing work overlooking Anchorage

And now winter is in full swing. Of course could use some natural snow, but barring any meltdowns we are set. Past week and forecast for next week is good with temps around zero (-20 C) . Am happy have figured out how to dress for it and let the fun begin. As I walked a trail yesterday there were bikers and skiers out just enjoying the wondrousness of winter. Supposed to be northern lights out last night but my eyelids were closed.

Now I need to go for another walk while the sun is at its peak of 6 degrees above the horizon.

Summer and that means visitor

Failure seldom stops you. What stops you is the fear of failure.

Jack Lemmon

Interesting summer, but that is usual. In Alaska seems there is no such thing as a normal summer. At the beginning of the summer several of us were discussing the usual,quandary of what will the season be like. The choices were rainy, cool, cloudy, or hot, dry and smoky. Predicting the future is always a go to conversation and almost always a waste of time. It will be what it will be. But we continue with the predictions of the future.

After the boat trip in southeast, it seemed an auspicious beginning, but the weather forecasts often stated otherwise. Cloudy rain were the predictions, but often did not come true. 3 times this summer I arose in the morning, as usual and read the weather report, 3 times it said it was raining and going to rain all day. I looked outside and had to remember basic weather. Does not rain require clouds, as it was a blue sky, clear day. Sometimes you have to think for yourself and not depend on others. The summer turned out to be one of the best. And I am backed up by the energy output of our solar panels. 2nd best year in 8 years. 3700KW this year.

Summertime in Alaska for us these days means visitors. The story I tell, although short and to the point as well as a story is, we had visitors every day from June 4 until the 24 of July, with 7 days off of which we flew to Portland Oregon and picked up a car we had purchased and drove it home, a 2500 mile trip.

New used car from Portland Oregon enroute to Alaska

It occurs to me that when one is home one does not think of it as an adventure or a trip or such thing. It is just normal life. But why does everyone come to Alaska to visit on vacation. I live here, just normal existence, and do not write about it because it is just normal.

Summer ski jumping camp. Hike to portage glacier
Summer solstice sunset 23:41(11:41 pm)

Visitors bring out the spectacular in Alaska. We did the 26 glacier cruise day trip, viewing, yes, 26 glaciers although they are shrinking fast and are not as spectacular as in the past. ( But then what isn’t better in my memory) We did it twice. For me though, the Kenai Fjords tour is taking over, as the spectacular one. Both see wildlife and glaciers, and despite some people saying “If you have seen one glacier you have seen them all”, I never tire of glaciers. Always interesting always changing, always spectacular.

Pacific coastline covered in kittiwakes, gulls and a sea lion
Hiking Matanuska glacier

And the wildlife, stellar sea lions, puffins, (tufted and horned), salmon, a smack of jellyfish, bears, goats, sheep, moose, seals, herons, the list goes on and on.

Did some work building new stairs for jumps (250 steps)
Backyard moose
Backyard

And our freezer is full of fish. Fortunately or unfortunately I am not one who necessarily enjoys fishing for the sake of catching fish. Get a net and catch what you need and move on to something more fun. Different strokes for different folks.

Mt Huntington summit French ridge
Ruth glacier landing
McLaren river valley
Blueberry picking
One of the worlds largest Ukrainian flags

And so goes summer 2025, now into the fall season. One of main discussions is what will the winter bring, miserable warm no snow, or cold and good snow. ?? the questions of the future go on.

And it continues

Home again

If I had my life to live over again, I would have made a rule to read some poetry and listen to some music at least once every week.

Charles Darwin

Made it back yesterday afternoon. 2491 miles (4009 Km) 50 hours and 7 minutes drive time. (Thanks to the wonderment of the new car, it recorded that), 6 days total and as noted too fast. We did the final push in 6.5 hours with only one stop to empty bladders. Whew. Before leaving talked with some motorcyclists from Michigan touring the route we just did. They were scheduled to go to Whittier today, and I mentioned I would be there for hiking. Interesting the various convergences.

Incredible country- we went through the rain forests of northwest United States, the rain forests of coastal Canada, into the dryer interior lands with big rivers. The flatlands between the Canadian Rockies and the coastal range. Along the interior side of the Wrangell St. Elias mountains, and home. When we left Haines Junction yesterday after our Canadian Chinese breakfast it felt like we were in our homeland again. Then we got to the Chugach Mountains of Southcentral Alaska. Beautiful day, and the mountains greeted us in good fashion.

Mt. Wickersham

Arrived home and friends came over to welcome us home. The summer ski jumping solstice camp is going along and some of parents from previous years came over and was good to reacquaint.

Road Trip II

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Departed Hazelton and made it the 45 km to Kitwanga for breakfast at roadside gas station. Only game around and ordered the 2x2x2x2 breakfast- 2 eggs, 2 bacon, 2 ham, 2 spam, 2 toast, and hash browns. Then on to the totem park, for a quick tour, then began the 450 miles (724 km)of Cassiar Highway. We have done it several times winter and summer. and always a treat. Not as developed as the Alaska Highway, being more winding and mountainous. We expected a fair amount of traffic due to the Alaska highway being closed, but not bad. Had no issues whatever. And the scenery was great. It is entirely paved now except for tiny sections undergoing construction. As before though the southern end is much better than the northern end which gets a bit rough and narrower.

Kitwanga totem park
Great rest stops and frequent.
180 degrees from previous picture
Approaching Stikine river Bridge.

A tiny room barely enough room to squeak around the bed and a shared bathroom.

We realized we were probably not going to make it the entire Cassiar unless we pushed later than we like. I looked at Jade City, a mining place with, I thought a motel and restaurant. We had the Milepost – the guide to driving the highways, byways and routes to and around Alaska. It listed only a small 4 room motel and no restaurant. The next one was another 75 miles (120km) going south when we reached the Alaska Highway to Watson Lake. Dease lake motels were full and it was only 2 pm, way too early to stop there, so on we went to see what Jade City offered. We arrived at about 7 pm and motel seen, but office closed up. Jeanne knocked and a nice lady came and unbolted some major dead bolts. They negotiated a price involving credit card, cash, Canadian money, and American money. Settled on $120 US with a 10 dollar Canadian change given. Price was $110 so we lost a bit, but it was the last room, so we got a place to stay. We had eaten a fair quality hamburger in Dease Lake, so food was not an issue.

Picture taken from opposite corner.

“In the morning supposedly they had breakfast, but none to be found. We flunked the coffee making in Keurig coffee machine managing to spill water all over the counter and floor using up precious coffee modules. As another resident said “us old people don’t do well with the fancy coffee machines. How about just a percolator or the drip kind” Fancy coffee machines, but they give powdered creamer with the coffee.

On to Nuggett City at the junction of Cassiar and Alaska Highway for breakfast. One item only 2 over easy eggs, ham, hash browns, and toast, but you can upgrade to bacon if you want. No changes including changing over easy scrambled eggs. They could do the eggs over hard though. Again flexibility is required.

Then Whitehorse which we have always liked. The town has never let us down. Arrived a bit early for stopping but one must at least walk to the Yukon and Miles Canyon, which we did. Realized our friend Sheila, back in Portland Oregon, had said to eat some donut holes from Tim Hortons for her. Tim Hortons is a Canadian chain of restaurants scattered all over Canada. Thus to fulfill our obligation, knowing it was last Tim Hortons for us, on this trip, we went into town and ordered donut holes. Then discussing later plans we realized food later was again going to be shall I say not at a time we wanted. One must be very flexible when driving the highway. Thus we ordered a sandwich and a chicken bowl. Sandwich OK, bowl very good.

.

Miles Canyon Yukon river

The discussion continued about plans. We had hoped to be back to Anchorage by Tuesday night, making it a five day drive. It seems though 500 mile days (800 km) is a bit much for us not leaving anytime for hiking, viewing stopping and just unlaxing at rest areas. Have done the trip in 3.5 days but it was drive, sleep quick, drive, and eat in car. Seems a crime through such beautiful country. From Whitehorse it is 706 miles home (1136 km). Doable but not really fun. Thus maybe stay in Whitehorse. The fires are done and a bit of rain cleared the air, so air quality is good. I have said 8 days is a reasonable quick trip. I did the trip about 10 years ago and told myself I had all the time I wanted. Alas after 4 days I had only gone 350 of the 2400 miles. I picked up the pace and did it in 12.

There is a delightful hot springs outside Whitehorse which we have often stayed at. We found it the first time on a winter drive. It delighted us soaking in the hot pools at -20 degrees (-30C), mallard ducks overwintering in the pool swimming with me.

1990 Takhini Hot Springs ducks

We checked at going to Takhini, but it seems they have gone to a high end spa type. The old bunkhouse hostel has been turned into a high end Air B & B. I guess they don’t want our types any more. 300/night 2 night minimum. We opted for a downtown motel, and walked about Whitehorse. We found ourselves at a delightful restaurant and bar- The Dirty Northern. We ate outside in sunshine and had a couple appetizers and booze. A delightful waitress who could not give recommendations as she was only 18 and drinking age is 19.

Thus here we are in Tok, Alaska after a 385 mile day (611 KM). Not sure what is going on but hotels and restaurants are packed. Locals say it is just tourists but I have never seen crowds like this. Guess I usually camp or just don’t pay attention in the summer. Again for the third time on this trip we got the last room. It is a few miles out of town in a little cabin.

Since departing last thursday we have travelled 2162 miles (3479Km) in 5 days with 44 hours and 6 minutes of driving. Hopefully tomorrow home with about 385 miles (619 Km) left. We started with sunset at 9:05 pm in Portland and tonight the sun sets at 11:48. A bit farther north. and solstice next week. Almost forgot to write the animal count. several deer, hare, squirrels, 1 dead porcupine, 1 moose, a sow grizzly and cub, 3 fox, swans, hawks, and the list goes on.

And getting into the United States was probably the easiest time I or we have ever had. Showed passports waited 30 seconds and he said enjoy our day. ????

Roberts Lodge in Tok, Alaska

Road Trip

What counts in life is not the mere fact we have lived.  It is what difference we have made to the lives of others that will determine the significance of the life we lead.

Nelson Mandela 

Has been an interesting beginning to summer. First an early ending to snow and what usually is called winter. And it has been cooler and rainier than usual it seems. Clouds and rain have been the norm although certainly a few days of wondrous sunshine.

Then Jeanne hit a bollard at the gas station in her beloved 13 year old Volvo, which she loved and had said it would be her last car. Unfortunately the estimates came in at $11000 and $15000. Zounds! Amazing for a 2 mph crash. I guess bumpers are not designed for bumping. It did push the wheel back a little but we drove the totaled car onto the tow truck. Then the search for a new one.

$11,000 to $15000 dollar repair. Totaled.

We have always bought our cars from down south, i.e. the lower 48, because prices are ridiculous in Alaska and dealers will not even think of meeting the price even with shipping a car to Alaska. Thus we searched all over the United States, eliminating the east because of salt, and the south because of flooding. We finally settled on a 2023 used Volvo XC 60 what they call a mini hybrid. (Mini hybrid apparently means you do not plug it in and the electric motor helps the gas motor, as opposed to a full hybrid, which plugs in, where the gas motor helps the electric, sort of). And the good part, it was in Portland Oregon which meant relatively close. But the dealer had to have it off their lot within 5 days. The dealer did not make it easy. We have purchased several cars and all were very easy – send us the money and we will send you a car or you can come get it and drive it home. Not this time. Notaries, even fingerprints, wired cash did not give us a warm fuzzy feeling of dealing with them. We almost called it off several times thinking it was scam. All this while Jeanne’s family was with us. We thought of having a friend pick it up at dealer and store it at their house near Portland for a few weeks until the timing would be better, but after the hassle of us buying it, probably would be an even bigger hassle for someone to pick it up. And the rest of summer is busy with ski jumping camp, and more visitors. Timing was and is bad.

Knik arm Anchorage, Alaska

Family left Wednesday afternoon and Thursday we were on a plane at 5 am for Portland. We arrived at 11:30 am at the dealer and picked up the car. They were very nice explaining a lot of the whatnot, doodads, bells and whistles on the car. By 12:30 we were on the road.

First visited a friend of mine, from Colorado College which we attended several decades ago. It was a great visit, although sad due to a brain tumor and she is in a nursing home on hospice care nearing the end.

Then on to the friends who had offered to pick up the car and store it for a few weeks. They served us lunch and off we drove north, getting to nearly Seattle.

New (2 year old) car for us.

Friday a breakfast with a friend who had to serve as proxy for all the friends we have in Seattle area. Departed Seattle and made it across the Canadian border easily, apologizing to the border officer for the United States current belligerence. The officer responded with “we will all get through it”. Hopefully getting back into the United States will not be a problem.

The drive up through Skagit valley was incredible. The farmland in the valleys of incredible hills and cliffs with the Fraser river running through it. Then the Thompson river with the high flow of water, made me ponder the huge hydraulics of a big river. Trains ran both sides of river and I measure one parked train at a mile long (1.6 km). Either coal or gravel it seemed.

We left the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest and went into more dry lands of sagebrush and cattle country. Made it to 100mile house where we spent the night and a surprise dinner at the German restaurant which served only kebabs, but very good ones.

Today cruised 450 miles to Hazelton covering a lot of flat ground, with delightful scenery. Always a treat to look out and see the distant horizon beckoning. I seem to never tire of that. “The horizon beckons and I must go” I believe Jack Sparrow said, in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Tonite here in New Hazelton we wanted a beer but only a liquor store and one restaurant, which happened to be a Chinese restaurant. Pilsner beers are not our favorite but that was what we had. Not quite half way, 1050 miles done 1500 to go. (1690 km and 2400 km) I had hoped to be home by Tuesday, now Saturday, don’t think we will make it. Alas, it is a wonderful drive.

Due to forest fires the usually faster alaska highway is much slower now

Summertime

The question is not what you look at, but what you see

Henry David Thoreau

Summertime in Alaska is always greatly anticipated. Warmth, green, life abounding. It is a treat to watch the season progression. Seems whenever someone asks me what is my favorite season, somehow it always seems to be the season we are currently in. I love the changes and advancement, although I might take an exception to springtime. It drags on and is often muddy and dirty, as the snow melts and the misled garbage and dirt from the winter makes its appearance. This past year was weird as we had very little snow, and when it melted the leaves and green were yet weeks away. We got an extra month of brown. But now we are in full summer. Someone once told me Alaska in the summertime is just various shades of green everywhere.

Years ago I had worked In Barrow, now Utqiagvik, at 71 degrees north. I returned to Fairbanks the first of June and had been in snow, ice, since October. I remember flying in and my eyeballs hurt from suddenly seeing green, and the smell. Oh the smell was incredible.

But now summer is in full swing, and there is an extra energy about. Hence the boat tour in Southeast Alaska, and trails opening up. And people begin coming out more. I am surprised every year by how much more activity there is in the summer. More people, more cars on the road, and of course what would Alaska be without visitors.

Jeanne’s family has not been here to visit in 25 years and it was time. This past week we have been hosting their visit. Jeanne’s sister, brother-in-law, niece, husband, 5 year old son, nephew, and Jeanne and I. Of course we want to show off our home, and I think we have been doing a fair job of doing that. Glen Alps hiking, Eklutna Lake viewing, the Amoosement Park in Palmer, Thunderbird Falls hike, Musk Ox farm, glacier and wildlife boat tour out of Whittier, Kincaid Park, and now in Seward.

Yesterday Jeanne and I dropped the family at the Anchorage train station at 6 am where they proceeded on the 5 hour trip via Grandview to Seward. Jeanne and I drove in the absolutely pouring rain arriving a few hours after they did. (We had some business to do, delaying our departure). A visit to the Sealife Center, where the aquarium is I feel a great experience for viewing wildlife, not exactly in the wild but one can see the puffins, guillemots, and murres swimming underwater, and the harbor seals, and sealions. I confess my favorite was the aquarium of seemingly empty sea water, but when you put a magnifying lens to it, the zooplankton were swimming about. Plus the intertidal touch ponds, and lots of information. Not like the real thing but certainly easier than reality to access.

Today we will walk the beach a bit, depending on rain, then we will go to Exit glacier, for annual check of how far back the glacier has receded. Amazing to think of the glacier face on the river plain and one could touch it (safely). Now it has melted back miles and lost hundreds of feet of depth. Amazing to see. We always tell people if you want to see glaciers do it now, because they won’t be here in the not so distant future. Absolutely amazing phenomenon, although I find most things in nature phenomenal.

Nobbe, Lakey, Molitor, and Patee clan
And looking to the Northwest with a view of Anchorage and Denali if you can see through the clouds.

Amoosement Park
Backyard moose real
Thunderbird falls
Sealife Center
Receding Glaciers Cascade, Barry, and Cox. When I first went there the three were connected.
Cascade and Barry Glacier in 1989.

It is a treat to show off our home. It falls into the category of it may not be perfect, but for me, this is a pretty amazing place to live.

Boat travel

It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Ursula Le Guin

Quite a week a one week boat cruise, although not as one thinks a Cruise. This was a relatively small boat. 37 passengers as opposed to a 3000 passenger trip. Boarded in Sitka alaska and cruised for 7days. When it was over one of the crew asked what was best part of the week. I had to think, always a tough proposition. A sow brown bear with2cubs, only to be bested by a sow with 3 cubs, only to be bested by humpback whales, only to be bested by orca whales, only to be bested by sea lion rookery with them checking us out closely (read keep your hands inside the skiff, only to bested by the orcas breaching next to the boat, to be bested by the mountain goat feeding just above a humpback cruising below, along with tufted puffins, and all interspersed with glaciers, fjords, hiking, kayaking, swimming. What was best?

Thinking about it I had to think it was the crew serving us. Their enthusiasm for not only serving our incredible meals, but their enthusiasm for being there, and seeing what we were seeing, answering never ending questions, or finding the answer. People who have a passion for what they are doing. People who work well together from the captain, to the chef, to the servers, to the boat crew whether they be full rated mates or the deckhands.

Admiralty Dream
One week travel
Brown bear and cubs
Orca photo by Margret Fleming
Tufted puffins photo by Jan Whelan
Sea otter and flounder catch photo by Jan Whelan
Skiff crew Ed and Carley
Dawes glacier remains
Barb and Steve after 38F (4 degrees C) swim
Tlingit cultural presenters in Kake, Alaska. Story almost as good as the bedtime stories told vey night by Bailey, the expedition leader, every night aboard the Admiralty Dream at 9:15 pm

Finally again

You are perfectly cast in your life.  I can’t imagine anyone but you in the role.  Go play.

Lin-Manuel Miranda 

Has been a while in writing and I confess remiss.  AS they say “My bad”

But here we are in Sitka Alaska prepping for a cruise.  We have turned into cruise people I guess.  Well this one is a 49 passenger 8 day trip through Southeast Alaska.   It covers a lot of the area Jeanne and I kayaked in 8 weeks back in 1992 on our “honeymoon” trip.  I suspect people will tire of Jeanne and I telling stories of a particular area.  We are excited and have already been reliving memories of that awesome trip.

Sitka totem park pioneer home 1992

2025

Sitka has quite the history first with local Tlingit Natives and various native tribes, then invasion by the Russians for furs in early 1700’s. The Tlingits took back the area in 1802, but the Russians retook it in 1804. In 1867, Russian having overextended itself transferred its colonies and holdings to the United States. Although a price was paid of 7 million dollars it was never sold, because they never owned it. It was native land, which never became actually realized until 1971 with the Alaska Native claims settlement act. History is crazy. As one movie said history is “just the story of one bloody thing after another”.

Sitka itself is a hodgepodge of historical and modern stuff. The russian church, still active, the battlefields, the bishops house, the castle on hill now gone, and the totem park which we visit again this afternoon. Currently lots of tourists off the cruise ships. Interesting as there are advertisements all over to vote for or against limiting the numbers. The current ship holds 3000 passengers and a 1000 crew, into a town of 6000. the sidewalks are packed with folks walking gift shop to gift shop.

Next day and we again walked to totem pole park and walked about the wood and big trees.

Delightful day with lunch at food truck of fish tacos, and dinner of salmon cooked to perfection. One little incident where i was asked politely where from and when told I was from Anchorage, their response was I am sorry. Funny how people hate Anchorage because it is the big bad city. And we walked downtime fighting our way through the crowds of tourists.

Sitka has an election coming up to limit the tourists to 100,000 a year. Last year they had 300,000 in a town of 6000.

Here we go or there we were

The mistakes you make shape who you are.

Rinker Buck

I’m currently on a plane, either heading east or south of where I am right now. I’m on my way to Denver for another train ride. This time, we are taking the Amtrak “California Zephyr” to San Francisco. Apparently, it’s one of the most scenic Amtrak trains. I’m not sure how it can compete with the California coast, but is it really a competition?

So far, the plane ride has been incredible. I left in the dark, but the horizon soon showed itself, and the Wrangell mountains appeared – Sanford, Wrangell, Drum, Blackburn, St. Elias, Logan,and Fairweather. Now, I’m flying along the clouded-over southeast Alaska coast.

Sanford, Wrangell drum Blackburn

Wow, what a winter we’ve had! I decided to stay home and enjoy the Alaskan winter instead of going out and about. Jeanne went to visit a friend in Hawaii in January. Both Jeanne and I got a bit of the Decembers. Jeanne finally got some much-needed sunshine. I stayed behind to experience the worst winter on record. In January, we had some warm-up temperatures above freezing for weeks, two major wind storms, with winds reaching up to 90 kph (55 mph) at our house, and the ski jumps recorded speeds of 145 kph (90 mph). And guess what? We got 7 cm (2 3/4”) of rain in just 23 hours! Trees were crashing down, and the power went out! Going outside was a lesson in humility – don’t do it! We lost a few shingles, and our neighbor’s power line was broken by one of our trees, taking 6 days to repair.

For the third time in a row, Zak and I lost the little bit of snow we had made for the ski jumps. Thankfully, the temperatures dropped below freezing for a couple of days, and we were able to make enough snow and move it around with the snow cat, which saved February and even March. There were lines of snow amidst the brown sides.

Aurora in backyard 1 January 2025

Blowing snow for first time this season. Mid November. It melted and we did it three more times

Ice skating the ski trails. First of February 2025. No one ever taught me how to ice skate on hills

Now, in mid-March, Anchorage finally got its first snowfall since the beginning of December. New Orleans, Louisiana, received twice as much snow as Anchorage this year since the beginning of December. Crazy, right? As my friend Geoff says, this is the 51st unusual year in a row.

But skiers will find a way. I volunteered for the senior national cross-country ski races in January. Again, there were ribbons of snow, but they did it! It was a lot of fun sitting outside all day watching the best USA skiers go by, making sure they were following the rules and doing everything correctly. In the end of February, I finally went “outside” to Park City, Utah, to judge the junior national ski jumping championships. It was my first time as an official on the national stage, and it was a bit stressful, but I think I did okay. It was also fun to meet people from all over the country.

A close call

One must from time to time attempt things which are beyond one’s capacity

Pierre-Augusta Renoir 

A thrilling adventure!

Jeanne and I usually celebrate her birthday in Talkeetna, a charming town north of Anchorage, between Christmas and New Year’s. But this year, a friend invited us to their cozy cabin nestled north of Talkeetna, about 30 miles away. We left the day after Christmas, arriving before the sun dipped below the horizon at 3:30 p.m. Bud, our friend, picked us up in his snow machine with a trailer, ready to take us the mile to the cabin. Bud and Lulie, who have owned the cabin since 1988, spend most of the winter season there. They’re always welcoming visitors, so we felt right at home.

One of the best parts was that there was enough snow to ski! Anchorage has snow in October, but the warm weather in late November and beyond has melted most of it. The temperatures have been too warm to even make snow for the ski trails and jumps. Ice has been present, and falls are a major concern. But luckily, the studs around the tires of our bikes made it safe to explore the trails.

Bud and Lulie’s cabin is a true gem, and Bud takes great care of grooming miles and miles of trails. Jeanne and I decided to go out just as the sun was setting for a lovely ski. The next day, everyone thought a good ski was in order. Bud wanted to do a 4-5 mile loop to build up his strength on his new hip. Both he and Lulie are passionate about their dogs and have even competed in international ski touring events. Bud wanted to go skiing with his dog and suggested that I follow his tracks since there was only a couple of centimeters of fresh snow. The temperatures were perfect, around -5 C (25 F). I decided to give it a try.

Bud took off, with me not far behind. Of course, he was gone quickly, out of sight, but his tracks and the dog tracks were quite visible. The sky was a bit cloudy, but the forecast looked promising.

So, I was just enjoying the peaceful skiing through the flat country. It was amazing to see the swamps of summer covered in snow. The scrub black spruce trees stood tall, almost reaching the sky, with barely enough limbs to catch the new snow. About 2 miles into my ski, it started snowing, not exactly what I had planned. It was coming down pretty hard, maybe 1-2 cm an hour. If it kept up, I’d be buried in no time! The ski tracks were getting covered, but I could still see the snow machine width pack.

I kept going, but the snow started falling even more, and the visibility dropped to 2-3 miles. I could still hear the road of the Parks Highway between Anchorage and Fairbanks, but I knew if it snowed much more, the sound would be muffled. The snow was definitely coming down more than a centimeter an hour. In 5 hours, my skis would be buried unless I lifted them up.

Then, I started thinking about the Donner Party. Would I be in the same situation as those unfortunate souls caught in the Sierra snow? Those folks either saved themselves or some of them by resorting to cannibalism. Oh my, this is getting a bit scary! I moved on the ski trail, crossing another snow machine track, and the ski tracks were gone for that meter of crossing. Donner Party thoughts kept coming to mind.

Then, I realized I was all alone, unlike the Donner Party, where they had 147 morsels to choose from. I decided to keep going, the snow starting to lighten up a bit. The GPS said I was starting to turn back toward the cabin. I passed another friend’s cabin, but I knew he was still in Anchorage for the holidays.  

So, I had this wild idea to try and free my foot from the trap. I mean, I’ve heard stories of animals chewing off their limbs to escape, right? But then I realized, ‘Uh-oh, this is gonna be scary.’ And guess what? I hadn’t even had a shower in 24 hours! My foot was totally out of commission. I was stuck! But then, the snow stopped falling, and I decided to take a deep breath and brave the elements. I made it back to the cabin, about 45 minutes behind Bud. Bud and I had a blast gathering water from the spring a few miles away using the snow machines. It was such a fun task! On our way back, we ran into the three ladies who were returning from their ski trip. Jeanne was absolutely thrilled about skiing, calling the conditions ‘pure butter’.  

Yesterday Bud drove us to the road where we left our car, and we proceeded to Talkeetna.  We are now celebrating Jeanne’s birthday at the cabin in downtown Talkeetna.  Beautiful day, sun is blasting down from its 4 degrees above the horizon.  

Finally some awesome skiing
Sunrise
Sunset over Denali