Frenchglen, Oregon weekend

Failure is where we learn the most.

Faith Dickey (professional highliner)

My friend Maralyn is a friend from Seattle. I first met her as a freshman in Colorado College. This happened, shall we say, over 50 years ago. She is as I describe, a poor starving artist who is one of the most delightful people you could ever meet. She has gone to this little hotel in Frenchglen, Oregon for over 40 years as a little retreat. This year she invited us and we made the time available, mid to end September. I checked for reservations and alas very full, and this was May_June. Geez who thinks that far ahead? But got them and on waiting list for Friday night, which was successful two weeks prior to our arrival.

Then, one of my cousins, while visiting this summer said we needed to come visit, enticing us with a baseball game at Wrigley Field, in Chicago. I have been to one- half of a game in St, Louis. OK-it seemed we could tack it on to the Frenchglen trip. Then there is the “family cabin which my cousin Tom has in mid Wisconsin, not too far. Well the trip has ballooned into a huge visiting people. to be revealed. Jeanne flew into San Francisco, rented a car, and drove to a friends house to visit in Gilroy, the garlic capital of the world. Then to friends near Yosemite National Park where she worked and lived for 4 years. Two days there and on to another friend who used to live in Alaska and now is a campground host.

Jeanne picked me up in Reno, Nevada Thursday night. Friday we drove to Frenchglen, a small unincorporated town in southern Oregon. It is near the Malheur Wildlife refuge. A drive of about 380 miles(611 kilometer) made in about 6 1/2 hours, stopping Winnemucca, Nevada to visit more friends. Driving north, I recognized the area as a desert. It was transitioning into high desert, similar to Southern Idaho where I spent grades 1-8 going to school there.

I did learn that it is not really what I called a high desert – sagebrush, cold winters, hot summers, very dry. It is not a desert which by definition is very little precipitation. Frenchglen gets about 15” (38cm) of precipitation a year, similar to(slightly less) than Anchorage, Salt Lake City. Seattle gets about 40″ (101cm). It snows a lot in the winter in Frenchglen and the Steens Mtn. scenic loop does not open until late May or later, due to snow. Turns out sagebrush requires too much water to live in a desert. Thus the area is actually called a shrub steppe. Whoopee.

We stayed at the Frenchglen hotel, registered on the National Historic register since 1924. A delightful place, although as with old wooden hotels, one wants to check the fire escapes when you move in. Meals are family style, which leads to wonderful conversations, with what I would call an eclectic group. There were several artists. They worked in oils, watercolors, and wood. A couple worked in environmental areas. They also occasionally worked in theatre as performers and directors. A seismologist, a geologist, and an architect were also present. One lady had worked in Los Angeles as an accountant. She tired of being inside, and her family was in Oregon. She quit her job, became a truck driver, and moved near Astoria, Oregon. A variety of people and delightful conversations.

Sunrise

The last morning, Maralyn and I were watching the sunrise from the front porch when a pickup truck pulled up. An apparent local then came in, and Maralyn and I hit him up before the front door was closed. Delightful character answering our numerous questions concerning ranching in the area. His job for the day was transporting 3 truckloads of hay to a ranch farther north. The big round rolls of hay. We learned a huge amount about hay and bailing it up, transporting for the winter. The coffee finally finished, and we all had to precede with our day.

But driving there one looks out and goes “there is nothing here, what have I signed up for” But I knew it is a “desert”, and what there is there, is definitely hiding and one has to look to see. Deserts are full of life. You just have to open up. Look as if you were in the desert, not as a human. Fascinating places but these areas require a change of attitude to see the glories.

The first day everyone proceeded to their own destinations. First I queried the geologist on the local geology. Geologists are generally incredibly passionate about geology, and almost always are willing to share their knowledge. This one very much so. I got a quick and dirty semi advanced geology lesson of lava flows, basalts, and such.

Jeanne and I drove the Center Patrol Road (CPR) sort of down the middle of Blitzen River Valley. Stopping to view turkey vultures, ranches, the river, drainage ditches, and efforts to control invasive critters and weeds.

Then came the visitor center at Malheur wildlife refuge. the visitor center was closed, not for lack of visitors or any known reason. But the book store and nature center was open and the volunteer there was delightful and informative.

We proceeded to the narrows between some ponds and viewed all sorts of birds. I am not much at identifying birds, but it is fascinating watching them. We hoped to see the western grebes dancing across the top of the water. Unfortunately, they just wanted to run about the water. Stopped at Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Areas too view volcanic result

Sunday, Maralyn and Mary, who attended Colorado College with me and have maintained close contact ever since, along with Jeanne, drove the Steens Mountain Loop. The road is a 60 mile (100 k) loop. It goes from Frenchglen, which is at 4200 feet elevation (1280 meters), and rises to 9500 feet (2895 meters). Several canyons originate near the summit ridge. The aspen trees were beginning to change colors. But the best part was to spend a wondrous day with these three ladies.

Wildhorse Lake and a selfie.
Kiger Canyon

Boxed Lunchs

Alvord Desert

Monday, most people were departing, making room for a new set of visitors. Jeanne and I headed south. We went off course once to visit the Alvord Desert. It’s below Steens Mountain on the opposite side from Frenchglen. Stopped at Fields at the one store and got a milk shake. A repeat of the drive up, a long 6 hour drive to Reno. We visited Neva, who had come up to visit this summer. We delivered a photo book and video of her trip to Alaska this past summer. She is 13 years old and had spent 10 days with us.

It was a long day. I fell asleep early and long. Now in Carson City, Nevada visiting another good friend.

Summer and that means visitor

Failure seldom stops you. What stops you is the fear of failure.

Jack Lemmon

Interesting summer, but that is usual. In Alaska seems there is no such thing as a normal summer. At the beginning of the summer several of us were discussing the usual,quandary of what will the season be like. The choices were rainy, cool, cloudy, or hot, dry and smoky. Predicting the future is always a go to conversation and almost always a waste of time. It will be what it will be. But we continue with the predictions of the future.

After the boat trip in southeast, it seemed an auspicious beginning, but the weather forecasts often stated otherwise. Cloudy rain were the predictions, but often did not come true. 3 times this summer I arose in the morning, as usual and read the weather report, 3 times it said it was raining and going to rain all day. I looked outside and had to remember basic weather. Does not rain require clouds, as it was a blue sky, clear day. Sometimes you have to think for yourself and not depend on others. The summer turned out to be one of the best. And I am backed up by the energy output of our solar panels. 2nd best year in 8 years. 3700KW this year.

Summertime in Alaska for us these days means visitors. The story I tell, although short and to the point as well as a story is, we had visitors every day from June 4 until the 24 of July, with 7 days off of which we flew to Portland Oregon and picked up a car we had purchased and drove it home, a 2500 mile trip.

New used car from Portland Oregon enroute to Alaska

It occurs to me that when one is home one does not think of it as an adventure or a trip or such thing. It is just normal life. But why does everyone come to Alaska to visit on vacation. I live here, just normal existence, and do not write about it because it is just normal.

Summer ski jumping camp. Hike to portage glacier
Summer solstice sunset 23:41(11:41 pm)

Visitors bring out the spectacular in Alaska. We did the 26 glacier cruise day trip, viewing, yes, 26 glaciers although they are shrinking fast and are not as spectacular as in the past. ( But then what isn’t better in my memory) We did it twice. For me though, the Kenai Fjords tour is taking over, as the spectacular one. Both see wildlife and glaciers, and despite some people saying “If you have seen one glacier you have seen them all”, I never tire of glaciers. Always interesting always changing, always spectacular.

Pacific coastline covered in kittiwakes, gulls and a sea lion
Hiking Matanuska glacier

And the wildlife, stellar sea lions, puffins, (tufted and horned), salmon, a smack of jellyfish, bears, goats, sheep, moose, seals, herons, the list goes on and on.

Did some work building new stairs for jumps (250 steps)
Backyard moose
Backyard

And our freezer is full of fish. Fortunately or unfortunately I am not one who necessarily enjoys fishing for the sake of catching fish. Get a net and catch what you need and move on to something more fun. Different strokes for different folks.

Mt Huntington summit French ridge
Ruth glacier landing
McLaren river valley
Blueberry picking
One of the worlds largest Ukrainian flags

And so goes summer 2025, now into the fall season. One of main discussions is what will the winter bring, miserable warm no snow, or cold and good snow. ?? the questions of the future go on.

And it continues