If I had my life to live over again, I would have made a rule to read some poetry and listen to some music at least once every week.
Charles Darwin
Made it back yesterday afternoon. 2491 miles (4009 Km) 50 hours and 7 minutes drive time. (Thanks to the wonderment of the new car, it recorded that), 6 days total and as noted too fast. We did the final push in 6.5 hours with only one stop to empty bladders. Whew. Before leaving talked with some motorcyclists from Michigan touring the route we just did. They were scheduled to go to Whittier today, and I mentioned I would be there for hiking. Interesting the various convergences.
Incredible country- we went through the rain forests of northwest United States, the rain forests of coastal Canada, into the dryer interior lands with big rivers. The flatlands between the Canadian Rockies and the coastal range. Along the interior side of the Wrangell St. Elias mountains, and home. When we left Haines Junction yesterday after our Canadian Chinese breakfast it felt like we were in our homeland again. Then we got to the Chugach Mountains of Southcentral Alaska. Beautiful day, and the mountains greeted us in good fashion.
Mt. Wickersham
Arrived home and friends came over to welcome us home. The summer ski jumping solstice camp is going along and some of parents from previous years came over and was good to reacquaint.
It is good to have an end to journey towards, but it is the journey that matters in the end.
Ursula Le Guin
Departed Hazelton and made it the 45 km to Kitwanga for breakfast at roadside gas station. Only game around and ordered the 2x2x2x2 breakfast- 2 eggs, 2 bacon, 2 ham, 2 spam, 2 toast, and hash browns. Then on to the totem park, for a quick tour, then began the 450 miles (724 km)of Cassiar Highway. We have done it several times winter and summer. and always a treat. Not as developed as the Alaska Highway, being more winding and mountainous. We expected a fair amount of traffic due to the Alaska highway being closed, but not bad. Had no issues whatever. And the scenery was great. It is entirely paved now except for tiny sections undergoing construction. As before though the southern end is much better than the northern end which gets a bit rough and narrower.
Kitwanga totem parkGreat rest stops and frequent.180 degrees from previous pictureApproaching Stikine river Bridge.
A tiny room barely enough room to squeak around the bed and a shared bathroom.
We realized we were probably not going to make it the entire Cassiar unless we pushed later than we like. I looked at Jade City, a mining place with, I thought a motel and restaurant. We had the Milepost – the guide to driving the highways, byways and routes to and around Alaska. It listed only a small 4 room motel and no restaurant. The next one was another 75 miles (120km) going south when we reached the Alaska Highway to Watson Lake. Dease lake motels were full and it was only 2 pm, way too early to stop there, so on we went to see what Jade City offered. We arrived at about 7 pm and motel seen, but office closed up. Jeanne knocked and a nice lady came and unbolted some major dead bolts. They negotiated a price involving credit card, cash, Canadian money, and American money. Settled on $120 US with a 10 dollar Canadian change given. Price was $110 so we lost a bit, but it was the last room, so we got a place to stay. We had eaten a fair quality hamburger in Dease Lake, so food was not an issue.
Picture taken from opposite corner.
“In the morning supposedly they had breakfast, but none to be found. We flunked the coffee making in Keurig coffee machine managing to spill water all over the counter and floor using up precious coffee modules. As another resident said “us old people don’t do well with the fancy coffee machines. How about just a percolator or the drip kind” Fancy coffee machines, but they give powdered creamer with the coffee.
On to Nuggett City at the junction of Cassiar and Alaska Highway for breakfast. One item only 2 over easy eggs, ham, hash browns, and toast, but you can upgrade to bacon if you want. No changes including changing over easy scrambled eggs. They could do the eggs over hard though. Again flexibility is required.
Then Whitehorse which we have always liked. The town has never let us down. Arrived a bit early for stopping but one must at least walk to the Yukon and Miles Canyon, which we did. Realized our friend Sheila, back in Portland Oregon, had said to eat some donut holes from Tim Hortons for her. Tim Hortons is a Canadian chain of restaurants scattered all over Canada. Thus to fulfill our obligation, knowing it was last Tim Hortons for us, on this trip, we went into town and ordered donut holes. Then discussing later plans we realized food later was again going to be shall I say not at a time we wanted. One must be very flexible when driving the highway. Thus we ordered a sandwich and a chicken bowl. Sandwich OK, bowl very good.
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Miles Canyon Yukon river
The discussion continued about plans. We had hoped to be back to Anchorage by Tuesday night, making it a five day drive. It seems though 500 mile days (800 km) is a bit much for us not leaving anytime for hiking, viewing stopping and just unlaxing at rest areas. Have done the trip in 3.5 days but it was drive, sleep quick, drive, and eat in car. Seems a crime through such beautiful country. From Whitehorse it is 706 miles home (1136 km). Doable but not really fun. Thus maybe stay in Whitehorse. The fires are done and a bit of rain cleared the air, so air quality is good. I have said 8 days is a reasonable quick trip. I did the trip about 10 years ago and told myself I had all the time I wanted. Alas after 4 days I had only gone 350 of the 2400 miles. I picked up the pace and did it in 12.
There is a delightful hot springs outside Whitehorse which we have often stayed at. We found it the first time on a winter drive. It delighted us soaking in the hot pools at -20 degrees (-30C), mallard ducks overwintering in the pool swimming with me.
1990 Takhini Hot Springs ducks
We checked at going to Takhini, but it seems they have gone to a high end spa type. The old bunkhouse hostel has been turned into a high end Air B & B. I guess they don’t want our types any more. 300/night 2 night minimum. We opted for a downtown motel, and walked about Whitehorse. We found ourselves at a delightful restaurant and bar- The Dirty Northern. We ate outside in sunshine and had a couple appetizers and booze. A delightful waitress who could not give recommendations as she was only 18 and drinking age is 19.
Thus here we are in Tok, Alaska after a 385 mile day (611 KM). Not sure what is going on but hotels and restaurants are packed. Locals say it is just tourists but I have never seen crowds like this. Guess I usually camp or just don’t pay attention in the summer. Again for the third time on this trip we got the last room. It is a few miles out of town in a little cabin.
Since departing last thursday we have travelled 2162 miles (3479Km) in 5 days with 44 hours and 6 minutes of driving. Hopefully tomorrow home with about 385 miles (619 Km) left. We started with sunset at 9:05 pm in Portland and tonight the sun sets at 11:48. A bit farther north. and solstice next week. Almost forgot to write the animal count. several deer, hare, squirrels, 1 dead porcupine, 1 moose, a sow grizzly and cub, 3 fox, swans, hawks, and the list goes on.
And getting into the United States was probably the easiest time I or we have ever had. Showed passports waited 30 seconds and he said enjoy our day. ????
What counts in life is not the mere fact we have lived. It is what difference we have made to the lives of others that will determine the significance of the life we lead.
Nelson Mandela
Has been an interesting beginning to summer. First an early ending to snow and what usually is called winter. And it has been cooler and rainier than usual it seems. Clouds and rain have been the norm although certainly a few days of wondrous sunshine.
Then Jeanne hit a bollard at the gas station in her beloved 13 year old Volvo, which she loved and had said it would be her last car. Unfortunately the estimates came in at $11000 and $15000. Zounds! Amazing for a 2 mph crash. I guess bumpers are not designed for bumping. It did push the wheel back a little but we drove the totaled car onto the tow truck. Then the search for a new one.
$11,000 to $15000 dollar repair. Totaled.
We have always bought our cars from down south, i.e. the lower 48, because prices are ridiculous in Alaska and dealers will not even think of meeting the price even with shipping a car to Alaska. Thus we searched all over the United States, eliminating the east because of salt, and the south because of flooding. We finally settled on a 2023 used Volvo XC 60 what they call a mini hybrid. (Mini hybrid apparently means you do not plug it in and the electric motor helps the gas motor, as opposed to a full hybrid, which plugs in, where the gas motor helps the electric, sort of). And the good part, it was in Portland Oregon which meant relatively close. But the dealer had to have it off their lot within 5 days. The dealer did not make it easy. We have purchased several cars and all were very easy – send us the money and we will send you a car or you can come get it and drive it home. Not this time. Notaries, even fingerprints, wired cash did not give us a warm fuzzy feeling of dealing with them. We almost called it off several times thinking it was scam. All this while Jeanne’s family was with us. We thought of having a friend pick it up at dealer and store it at their house near Portland for a few weeks until the timing would be better, but after the hassle of us buying it, probably would be an even bigger hassle for someone to pick it up. And the rest of summer is busy with ski jumping camp, and more visitors. Timing was and is bad.
Knik arm Anchorage, Alaska
Family left Wednesday afternoon and Thursday we were on a plane at 5 am for Portland. We arrived at 11:30 am at the dealer and picked up the car. They were very nice explaining a lot of the whatnot, doodads, bells and whistles on the car. By 12:30 we were on the road.
First visited a friend of mine, from Colorado College which we attended several decades ago. It was a great visit, although sad due to a brain tumor and she is in a nursing home on hospice care nearing the end.
Then on to the friends who had offered to pick up the car and store it for a few weeks. They served us lunch and off we drove north, getting to nearly Seattle.
New (2 year old) car for us.
Friday a breakfast with a friend who had to serve as proxy for all the friends we have in Seattle area. Departed Seattle and made it across the Canadian border easily, apologizing to the border officer for the United States current belligerence. The officer responded with “we will all get through it”. Hopefully getting back into the United States will not be a problem.
The drive up through Skagit valley was incredible. The farmland in the valleys of incredible hills and cliffs with the Fraser river running through it. Then the Thompson river with the high flow of water, made me ponder the huge hydraulics of a big river. Trains ran both sides of river and I measure one parked train at a mile long (1.6 km). Either coal or gravel it seemed.
We left the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest and went into more dry lands of sagebrush and cattle country. Made it to 100mile house where we spent the night and a surprise dinner at the German restaurant which served only kebabs, but very good ones.
Today cruised 450 miles to Hazelton covering a lot of flat ground, with delightful scenery. Always a treat to look out and see the distant horizon beckoning. I seem to never tire of that. “The horizon beckons and I must go” I believe Jack Sparrow said, in Pirates of the Caribbean.
Tonite here in New Hazelton we wanted a beer but only a liquor store and one restaurant, which happened to be a Chinese restaurant. Pilsner beers are not our favorite but that was what we had. Not quite half way, 1050 miles done 1500 to go. (1690 km and 2400 km) I had hoped to be home by Tuesday, now Saturday, don’t think we will make it. Alas, it is a wonderful drive.
100 mile house main streetNew Hazleton open restaurantDue to forest fires the usually faster alaska highway is much slower now
The question is not what you look at, but what you see
Henry David Thoreau
Summertime in Alaska is always greatly anticipated. Warmth, green, life abounding. It is a treat to watch the season progression. Seems whenever someone asks me what is my favorite season, somehow it always seems to be the season we are currently in. I love the changes and advancement, although I might take an exception to springtime. It drags on and is often muddy and dirty, as the snow melts and the misled garbage and dirt from the winter makes its appearance. This past year was weird as we had very little snow, and when it melted the leaves and green were yet weeks away. We got an extra month of brown. But now we are in full summer. Someone once told me Alaska in the summertime is just various shades of green everywhere.
Years ago I had worked In Barrow, now Utqiagvik, at 71 degrees north. I returned to Fairbanks the first of June and had been in snow, ice, since October. I remember flying in and my eyeballs hurt from suddenly seeing green, and the smell. Oh the smell was incredible.
But now summer is in full swing, and there is an extra energy about. Hence the boat tour in Southeast Alaska, and trails opening up. And people begin coming out more. I am surprised every year by how much more activity there is in the summer. More people, more cars on the road, and of course what would Alaska be without visitors.
Jeanne’s family has not been here to visit in 25 years and it was time. This past week we have been hosting their visit. Jeanne’s sister, brother-in-law, niece, husband, 5 year old son, nephew, and Jeanne and I. Of course we want to show off our home, and I think we have been doing a fair job of doing that. Glen Alps hiking, Eklutna Lake viewing, the Amoosement Park in Palmer, Thunderbird Falls hike, Musk Ox farm, glacier and wildlife boat tour out of Whittier, Kincaid Park, and now in Seward.
Yesterday Jeanne and I dropped the family at the Anchorage train station at 6 am where they proceeded on the 5 hour trip via Grandview to Seward. Jeanne and I drove in the absolutely pouring rain arriving a few hours after they did. (We had some business to do, delaying our departure). A visit to the Sealife Center, where the aquarium is I feel a great experience for viewing wildlife, not exactly in the wild but one can see the puffins, guillemots, and murres swimming underwater, and the harbor seals, and sealions. I confess my favorite was the aquarium of seemingly empty sea water, but when you put a magnifying lens to it, the zooplankton were swimming about. Plus the intertidal touch ponds, and lots of information. Not like the real thing but certainly easier than reality to access.
Today we will walk the beach a bit, depending on rain, then we will go to Exit glacier, for annual check of how far back the glacier has receded. Amazing to think of the glacier face on the river plain and one could touch it (safely). Now it has melted back miles and lost hundreds of feet of depth. Amazing to see. We always tell people if you want to see glaciers do it now, because they won’t be here in the not so distant future. Absolutely amazing phenomenon, although I find most things in nature phenomenal.
Nobbe, Lakey, Molitor, and Patee clanAnd looking to the Northwest with a view of Anchorage and Denali if you can see through the clouds.Amoosement ParkBackyard moose realThunderbird fallsSealife CenterReceding Glaciers Cascade, Barry, and Cox. When I first went there the three were connected. Cascade and Barry Glacier in 1989.
It is a treat to show off our home. It falls into the category of it may not be perfect, but for me, this is a pretty amazing place to live.